The study of dress history Esta obra es propiedad del J
5IBOI- UCR
Lou Taylor -
Manchester University Press
Sislema de Bibliolec8s
- UCR
11~~II~~I~lnllml 729189
729189
2 8 JUN 2017
Copyright
Š
\.0
/
Lou Taylor 2002
The right of Lou Taylor to be identified as the author of this work has been asserted by her in accordance with the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988. Every effort has been made by the author to secure copyright clearance for the photographs reproduced in this work. Any new information communicated to the publishers will be acted upon immediately. Published by Manchester University Press Altrincham Street, Manchester M1 7JA, UK www.manchesteruniversitypress.co.uk
British Library Cataloguing-in-Publication Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication
Data is available Data is available
ISBN 978 0 7190 4065 8 paperback First published
2002
This edition reprinted in 2015 The publisher has no responsibility for the persistence or accuracy ofURLs for any external or third-party internet websites referred to in this book and does not guarantee that any content on such websites is, or will remain, accurate or appropriate. Printed by Bell and Bain Ltd. Glasgow
Contents
List of illustrations Acknowledgements
page vi
xi
Introduction
1
1 Artefact-based approaches:
collection,
identification,
2 Artefact-based approaches:
display and interpretation
3 Approaches based on social and economic and cultural studies
24
64
using literary sources
5 Approaches
using visual analysis: paintings,
6 Approaches
using visual analysis of photography
8 Approaches
3
history, material culture
4 Approaches
7 Ethnographical
conservation
90 drawings and cartoons and film
115 150
approaches
193
using oral history
242
Conclusion
272
Index
275
-
VE R the past ten years the stucly of dress history has finally broken free of the shackles that have held it back. It is now benefiting from new multidisciplinary approaches and practices, which draw on material culture, art history, ethnography and cultural studies.
O
This book focuses on the development of these new methods to be found within the field of dress history and dress studies, and assesses the current condition and future directions of the subject. For the first time in one volume Lou Taylor outlines the full range of current academic approaches to dress history, from object-centred research to study based on oral sources and the use of literature, photographs and film. Comprehensive, engaging and trenchant, this will become the benchmark volume in the study of dress history. It is essential reading for all students and academics in the fields of cultural history, as well as design, dress and textile history.
LOU TAYLOR is Professor of Dress and Textile History at the University of Brighton and author of Mourning dress: a costume and social history (1983) and, with Elizabeth Wilson. Through the looking glass (1989).
STUbiES iN ~
Cover illustration - Evening dress by Elsa Schiaparelli and black mousseline dress by the painter Gluck. both mid-1930s. in a Surrealist-styled display by Mike Jones. Brighton Museum and Art Gallery, 1981. Courtesy the Royal Pavilion. Libraries and Museums of Brighton ami Ilove. WOI'n
ISBN 978-0-7190-4065-8
MANCHESTER 1824
Manchester University Press
1111111111111
9 780719
040658
www.manchesteruniversitypreS5.co.uk