KERALA TRAVELLER by siddharth Ghosh

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A Blessed Land THERE’s A PART OF HEAVEN RIGHT HERE ON EARTH

WE GIVE YOU THE ROAD MAP!

114 Km Wayanad

146 Km

MalapPuram

39 Km

Kozhikode

Kannur

Kasaragod

your handy guide to discovering

Palakkad

69 Km

98 Km

All leading airline operators

Delhi-Agra-Gwalior-Jhansi-BhopalNagpur-Hyderabad-Bangalore-MysoreKalpetta-Calicut-Cochin

Tiruvanthapuram Rajdhani Express, Kerala Sampark Kranti Express, Kerala Express, Swarna Jayanthi Express

DELHI

All leading airline operators

Mumbai-Pune-Kolhapur-SankeshwarBelgaum-Davangere-Bangalore-MysoreKalpetta-Kozhikode

Gurudev Express, Shalimar Tiruvananthapuram Express, Guwahati Tiruvananthapuram Express

KOLKATA

2814 km

planning a vacation lies in the logistics. The details and options up for grabs are innumerable and they all possess a charm that is uniquely their own. This is particularly true when the destination is a land so blessed, it is known as God’s own country. In our effort to facilitate your sojourn to Kerala we’ve outlined all the options of getting there. One way or the other, it’s going to be the experience of a lifetime.

106 Km

90 Km

132 Km

Idukki

80 Km 132 Km

Pathanamthitta

Thiruvananthapuram

71 Km

Kollam

Alappuzha

50 Km

Kottayam

Eranakulam

79 Km

Thrissur

Arguably, one of the toughest parts of

1543 km

All leading airline operators

Kolkata-Baleshwar-Panikoli-NataraBerhampur-Rajahmundry-VijaywadaVellore-Madurai

Gurudev Express, Shalimar Tiruvananthapuram Express, Guwahati Tiruvananthapuram Express

Mumbai

Graphics: Durga Prasad

2384 km

Keralaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s chief cash crops

Ginger is grown all over India, but the best quality is produced in Kerala.

Tea cultivation has been found suitable in Keralaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hill ranges. Kerala produces 56384 tonnes of tea annually.

Rubber plantation covers 26305 hectares. Kerala accounts for 91% of natural rubber production of the country.

KERALA TRAVELLER

cardamom

is exported and brings great revenues to the country. It is a very costly spice and highly valued socially.

Cashew is raised in a total area of 10761 hectares with annual production of 4968 tonnes. Indian cashew is consumed in 60 countries of the world.

cinnamon is a light brown coloured spice with fragrant aroma and a sweet, warm flavour.

cloves have a strong aroma and pungent taste. They are used as flavouring agents.

turmeric sees its Kerala largest production in Kerala. It is mainly used for colour and flavour.

nutmeg has a warm flavour and is attracted to rich foods. Kerala is one of its largest producers.

vanilla is one of the most expensive amongst spices. It is cultivated mainly for its pleasant flavour.

Sugarcane Coffee production in Kerala reaches a whopping 60175 million nuts of coffee every year.

production in Kerala is one of the largest in the country because Kerala receives high rainfall. The normal planting season of sugarcane is October to December.

KERALA TRAVELLER

It is impossible to encompass the beauty of Kerala’s natural splendour within the confines of any human endeavour. Any attempt to do so would be just that – an effort at describing something that is inherently indescribable. Here’s our attempt. words amit bhalla & anu bhalla | design durga prasad images dinesh shukla & anshuman sen

0006

KERALA TRAVELLER

The autumn moon lights my way/For now I smell the rain/ I’m goin’ around the world

KERALA TRAVELLER

Led Zeppelin

Calm blue lagoons flow through vibrant red earth and seafacing fortresses rise up majestically on pristine sandy beaches. This is not a painting, but it is picture perfect.

A Fort-town with a View

f one were to pick, from the political tapestry of India, a place that best fits the metaphor of peace, it ought to be Kasaragod. Peace: both in the sense of quietude and harmony. Dotted with sea-kissed forts, wind-caressed palms and wide-armed beaches, it seems like a very well-thought-of and articulate painting, as it were. And in this painting, calm lagoons and patches of red earth make for a truly exceptional landscape. Flanked on the north western coast of the state, Kasaragod is also somewhat an odd-mix of things. Known for its venerable and towering fortresses that face the sea, one often questions these concrete behemoths presence. The answer of which could possibly be found when one peeks into Kasaragod’s history; it was rather an important town, by pre-colonial and colonial standards; full of resources and important enough to be guarded. The name, Kasaragod, is said to be derived from the word Kusirakood meaning Nuxvomica forests (Kanjirakuttom). It is with the intention of bestowing maximum attention on the development backward areas that Kasaragod district was formed on May 24, 1984. With the formation of the new district, comprising the erstwhile Kasaragod and Hosdurg taluks, it has become possible to develop this coastal area fruitfully.

HISTORY

LATITUDE & LONGITUDE 74.52 N and 75.26E and 11.18N and 12.48N elevation 1991 sq.km temp 31.2 °C (max) & 23.6 °C (min)l National highway NH20 Languages Tulu, Kannada, Malayalam, English and Tribal Tourist Season Augast to March Nearest Airport/ Railway/bus station Mangalore

Kasaragod also called the ‘Land of Yakshagana and Theyyam’ is acquiring prominence in the tourist map of India. This yesteryear port town of the

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Kolathiri Rajas abounds in Filmi Fare myths and legends and exThe 17th cetury fort at Bekal udes a magical charm with was the spot its spectacular art forms where the song of Theyyam, Yakshagana, â&#x20AC;&#x153;Tu Hi Reâ&#x20AC;? was Poorakkali, Kolkali etc. picturised. It also Kasaragod, the youngest has a colonial district of Kerala, has sevbungalow which serves as a guesteral niceties to offer to the house. enthusiastic backpackers and pilgrims. The enduring charm of its beach, the architectural marvel of many a religious centre and the unique folk art forms are primo areas of attractions. During the 12th century, Kasaragod district came under the reign of the Kolathiri kings. After the battle of Thalikottai in 1565, and subsequent decline of the mighty Vijayanagar Empire, many local chieftains came into prominence. Among them were the Ikkeri Nayaks who attacked and annexed this region, which served as a base for establishing their dominance over the Malabar region. Realising its strategic location and economic importance as a port town, Hiriya Venkatapa began construction of the fort at Bekal, which was completed during the reign of Shivappa Nayak in 1660. The nearby Chandragiri Fort was then built. Both forts make prominent tourists spots today.

TOPOGRAPHY The district is marked off from the adjoining areas outside the State by the Western Ghats which run parallel to the sea and constitute al-

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most continuous mountain wall on the eastern side. The Ghats dominate the topography. The coastline is fringed with low cliffs alternating with stretches of sand. A few miles to the interior, the scene changes and the sand level rises towards the barrier of the Ghats and transforms into low red laterite hills interspersed with paddy fields and coconut groves.

essential itinerary Ananthapura Lake Temple: Considered to be the only lake temple in Kerala, this shrine, the beginnings of which dates back to the ninth century, is unique in other ways too. Set in the middle of a lake, its sanctum sanctorum is reachable only by a bridge. The temple houses a beautiful image of Shree Padmanabha (Lord Vishnu) seated on Adisesha, the serpent God. Bekal Fort: This 17th century edifice, overlooking the Arabian Sea, is situated nearly 130 feet above the waves that crash against its bastions. One look at the fort and a Bollywood enthusiast will promptly remember the song

getting around The mainstays of commuting in kasaragod

Bus Local bus service system in Kasaragod, or for that matter in whole of Kerala is excellent. The service is cheap ( ` 3 per km) and each route has great connectivity too.

Autorickshaw This is an economical way of commuting, especially for tourists travelling between attractions.

â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Tu Hi Reâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; from Bombay that was shot here. Standing tall amidst crashing waves, the fort has preserved very well over the ages. There is a 30-foot-high observation tower, situated in the middle, which affords a grand view of the blue-grey sea and the green palm forest. The walkway along its periphery offers views of fiery sunsets from its platforms. There are underground tunnels leading to the sea and a moat on its eastern side. A magazine used for storing weapons is now closed to the public. An old guesthouse within the precincts, built by the British in 1909, has been developed as an accommodation bungalow. The Fort at Bekal offers magnificent views of the Arabian Sea, and is noted as the largest and the bestpreserved fort in Kerala. The Bekal Fort is a circular structure built of laterite. Anjaneya Temple: Next to the Bekal Fort gates is Anjaneya Temple with colourful stucco images of gods on its walls. The temple, considered as old as the fort itself, draws devotees throughout the year. Near the fort you will find the grand sweep of Pallikere Beach.

Walk In most tourist places, like Bekal, many prominent and picturesque attractions are located close to each other. A walk is a great option should you wish to enjoy them at your own pace.

Houseboats Make this country boat that was used in the early days for the transport of goods from the isolated interior villages to the towns, as your floating home. Places like Bekal, Kottappuram, Valiyaparamba have ample number of houseboats to offer on varied price points.

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Let me take you far away/Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d like a holiday

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The Scorpions

It generates one-third of the state’s electricity which also means that a spectacular dam is one of this district’s main attractions. And did we mention the Periyar sanctuary?

Healing Point Central

either a thousand words nor a picture can capture Kannur’s magnitude, for it is not just the moment of truth, it is the Truth itself. Truth that is nature, truth that is a way to cure. Kannur is a place which flaunts of a power to heal, a practice etched in the sands of time. History treads softly in this idyllic, quiet town of Malabar, with its lovely weaves and pristine beaches. Plan a visit to its villages and you can hear many hoary chronicles of the past that only nestle above the palm fringed streets of Kannur. It is a land that was identified as Naura in the famous 1st century Greek travelogue, ‘The Periplus of the Erythraean Sea’. It is a land that once lent timber to King Solomon, and today we can see the great temple of Jerusalem. It is a place where you can feel an air of enceinte, a placard of 1000 year-old tradition, that still pulsates in the hearts of the locales. It is here, that you can have the pleasure of being an audience to a Theyyam performance: a unique, ancient ritualistic folk art idiosyncratic to the North malabar region. A visit to this lovely part of

LATITUDE & LONGITUDE 11.8689N and 75.3555E elevation 89km N of Jasargod temp 35 °C (max) & 16 °C (min) National highway NH67 Languages Malayalam, Tamil, English and Hindi Tourist Season December to May during Theyyam Performances Nearest Airport/ Railway/bus station Mattannur

KERALA TRAVELLER

I know, I know for sure/ That life is beautiful around the world

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RHCP

There are no backwaters here. But does one really need them when you already have a heady mix of misty mountains and sprawling spice plantations?

The Eden Gardens of Kerala

he etymology of the word Wayanad is Vayal (paddy) Naad (land); ‘Land of Paddy Fields’. So if the divine land of God’s Own Country wants to take a break from all the divinity around, the tranquil land endowed with paddy fields would probably be a nice destination. And why not, Wayanad, with its immaculate, unspoilt and unique natural beauty can truly pass off as God’s favourite holiday destination, if one were to create a metaphor around it. However mortals are also welcome to lose themselves in the wilderness of Wayanad. Think of it as a different Kerala - far removed from the typical sun, sand and siesta image. Here Kerala wakes up to the smell of coffee and goes to take a hike and comes back for some serious lazying around on a hammock! Increasingly sought after but far from being swamped, there are some really nice places to stay here but tourism is hardly an industry in Wayanad, bless it. A densely forested hill district, it’s mostly intra-state day-trippers who pile into buses and ‘do’

LATITUDE & LONGITUDE 11°41’44”N 76°6’21”E on the west coast elevation 2132km square temp 35 °C (max) & 20 °C (min) National highway NH67 Languages Malayalam, English, Hindi Tourist Season August to May Nearest Airport/ Railway/bus station Kozhikode

KERALA TRAVELLER

Roam if you want to/Fly the great big sky/See the great big sea

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B52s

This is the place where Vasco da Gama landed and set into motion a long chain of socio-political events. There is a lot of history here and beauty that is ageless.

Past , Present and Future Perfect

very traveller who visits Kozhikode has something to remember for a long time about this town nestled on the shores of Arabian sea. It is well said, “when you are in Kozhikode, you can’t keep your mouth shut”. It is a land where the whiff of history, legend and culture is too powerul to ignore, and in fact, it would be rather unwise to discount it. After all, it’s only in Kozhikode that the beach will pull back to reveal a tale about Vasco da Gama’s famous voyage from Lisbon, who anchored here in Kappad beach in 1498. It is only in Kozhikode that two Arab princes from Muskeeyat left behind three jars of gold coins hidden in date pickles, and found the same intact and untouched on return. It is only in Kozhikode that women continue to live in their ancestral house, while their husbands, visit them in the evening only to leave again next morning. It is only here where you will find a colourful crossboard of fact and fiction.

LATITUDE & LONGITUDE 11.25N and 75.77E elevation 82.68 Km square temp 39.4 °C (max) & 14 °C (min) National highway NH67 Languages Malayalam and Tamil Tourist Season September to February Nearest Airport/ Railway/bus station KOTTAYAM

From the Days of Yore It is impossible to omit the fact that Kozhikode was once a major trading centre of

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And the earth becomes my throne/Under wandering stars Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve grown

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Metallica

It is here that one must alight to experience the fabulous three-crescent Kovalam beach. But Kerala’s state capital is much more than an idyllic shore.

Cult Capital

ahatma Gandhi is said to have famously once called Thiruvananthapuram as the ‘Evergreen City of India’. He may have been referring to its undulating and picturesque setting juxtaposed by busy commercial alleyways. Thiruvananthapuram, formerly known as Trivandrum, is the capital city of Kerala and is located on the west coast of India near the extreme south of the mainland. An odd mix of the old and the new, the conservative and the liberal, the city is ranked first in the number of foreign tourists visiting Kerala. It is also a major destination for chartered flights to India for medical tourism, as there are more than fifty recognised Ayurveda centres in and around the city that get visitors from all across the world. This is primarily due to Ayurveda’s immense popularity in the West. Medical tourism is further promoted by the recuperation facilities available at the beach resorts and hill stations nearby. Apart from being the political nerve centre of Kerala, it is also a major academic hub and is home to several educational institutions including the University of Kerala, and to many science and technology institutions, the most prominent

LATITUDE & LONGITUDE 8.17 N 8.54 E and 76.41 N 77.17E elevation 2.192 sqkm temp 34 °C (max) & 21 °C (min) National highway NH-47 Languages Malayalam, Hindi, English Tourist Season August to May Nearest Airport/ Railway/bus station Trivandrum

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Golden beach The capital city of Kerala, Thirunanthipuram features the world famous Kovalam beach that draws thousands of tourists each year

being the Vikram Sarabhai Space Centre (VSSC), Technopark and IIST.

Orientation Thiruvananthapuram means “City of Lord Anantha” in Sanskrit and Malayalam. The name derives from the deity of the Hindu temple at the centre of the city. Anantha is the serpent Shesha on whom Padmanabhan or Vishnu reclines. The temple of Vishnu reclining on Anantha, the Sri Padmanabhaswamy temple remains the iconic landmark of the city on which the name has been aptly coined. Mythological connotations aside, there’s a historical reason why Thiruvananthapuram has been the capital city of Kerala. Apart from being one of the oldest cities in India, with periodic references in many Greek and Roman literatures, the city’s position came to forefront when the Venad Dynasty claimed the power of Southern regions, after the Great Partition of Kerala Empire of Cheras in 14th century. Since then this once tiny town has only grown to be one of the most important cities of Kerala.

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Topography Located near the southern tip of mainland India, Thiruvananthapuram is perched on hillocks of the midlands in Kerala, and is sandwiched between the Western Ghats and the Arabian Sea. Because of this location – a perfect blend of the hills and the seas – Thiruvananthapuram is ranked first in the number of foreign tourists visiting Kerala and is a fascinating destination for holidaymakers.

Weather The city has a tropical climate and therefore does not experience distinct seasons. The mean maximum temperature is 34 degree Celsius and the mean minimum temperature is 21 degree Celsius. Humidity is high here, and rises to about 90 per cent during the monsoons. The best time to visit is from November through March.

Getting there and around Once in Thiruvananthapuram (the airport is six km from the main city and 15km from Kovalam) take local bus 14 from the East Fort bus

stand (` 5) which connects various parts of the city. Prepaid taxi vouchers from the airport cost ` 206 to the city and ` 313 to Kovalam. Autorickshaws swarm the streets and are the easiest transport around the city; Standard rates are `10 flagfall, then ` 5 per kilometre, but all rules fall flat on the face at night with 50 per cent over the meter as night charges. It’s wise to agree on a fare beforehand.

Do not miss out on Kovalam Beach: If you are a beach bum, you can’t miss the world-famous Kovalam beaches shaped in three crescents. The coconut trees that fringe the shores of the beaches lend a spectacular look to this beachtown. Kovalam is also famous for its Ayurvedic massage centres and most hotels and resorts seem to have at least one massage facility in the premises. Padmanabhapuram Palace: A must visit place, located 60 km away from the city’s railway station. It was the seat of the Travancore kings and still retains the value of being one of the most important landmarks of the city. With 127 rooms spread across a 6.5 acres complex. It is the biggest wooden palace in the whole of the country. Sri Padmanabha Swamy Temple: This is a Vishnu temple with a massive fort gateway built in Dravidian style and the shrine is 18 feet high. Be mindful that only Hindus are allowed in here and that too in the traditional dress. Napier Museum: Spending few hours in this 19th century museum is an enriching experience. You can see the collection of archeological and historical objects including bronze idols and ivory ornaments. Sree Chitra Art Gallery: It is a haven for art lovers. You can see some masterpieces of art work of Kerala’s famous artist Raja Ravi Varma and other contemporary artists. Kuthiramalika Palace Museum: Located on the south-eastern side of Padmanabhaswamy temple, it is also known as Puthen Malika. It is a fine example of traditional Kerala architecture, housing the king’s collection of musical instruments and variety of arms. Kanyakumari: If you have time at hand, a day trip to the southernmost tip of Indian mainland could be very enriching. Located just three hours from Thiruvananthapuram, Kanyakumari also boasts of many attractions as the beach, Vivekananda Rock Memorial, Gandhi Mandapam, Thiruvalluvar statue, Kanyakumari Temple etc and at least a night’s stay is recommended .

one of its kind thiruvananthapuram offers unparalleled experiences

Learn Ever wanted to learn how on earth they do that Indian rope trick? Well, this is your chance. This academy works to preserve traditional Indian magic, give recognition to street magicians and train students in the art of illusion. It holds regular shows and have a store selling magic kits. Awesome!

Watch Margi Kathakali School, behind Fort School, conducts courses in Kathakali (a blend of religious play and dance) and kootiattam (traditional Sanskrit drama), for genuine students - absolute rookies as well as advanced. Visitors can get a sneak peek at the uncostumed practice sessions held 10 am to midday Monday to Friday.

Savour Part of the Indian Coffee House chain, Maveli serves its standard tucker in a unique, narrow, fourstorey spiralling tower lined by bench tables. Equal parts funhouse and Indian diner, it’s a must-see.

Partake The students at Ayurveda College perform massage and general panchakarma (cleansing and purification) treatments (after consultation with a doctor) free of charge. Expect to wait in line, and expect Indian hospital, rather than Western resort-style, ambience.

KERALA TRAVELLER

Breakfast or Morning Meals Keralites wake up early in the morning especially the women in village areas. Traditionally, they start their day at predawn with a glass of tea or coffee. Then they start the preparations for the daily meal such as grinding rice, coconut, spices etc. The breakfast consists of dishes such as puttu, appam, idiappam etc. Puttu is cylindrical in shape and the main ingredients rice and coconut are steamed in hollow bamboos or ‘puttu kutti’ (the vessel for preparing puttu). Appam is a soft cupped rice pancake which is very spongy at the centre and idiappam is a kind

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of vermicelli prepared by squeezing the rice

Breakfast! 1. Puttu 2. Appam 3. Idiyappam

dough through the idiappam presser and steaming it. These dishes also have side dishes along with them which include sauces made of coconut and onions and egg roast etc. In Kerala, tourists will easily find tea-shacks on every possible road that leads somewhere. Locally called ‘chayakkada’ these little hutments serve warm breakfast, with strong, milky chai or tea or the local filter coffee. As with all other places in India, one finds menfolk sipping the hot, sugary concoction early in the morning before heading out to work. They also use this opportunity to read the local paper and debate about the latest political scandals. And like most South Indian towns and cities, one can easily tuck into some famous South Indian-style breakfast preparation in any restaurant or eatery. Here the menu includes vada which is a deep fried, disc-shaped dish made from dal or gram flour, idli which is the steamed rice cake and many such items. Idli and vada are eaten with sambar (not to be confused with the wide-eyed cousin of deer!)

and chilli hot curry or chutney which is a paste made from coconut. It is most common to find the idli-vada-sambar combination breakfast in railway stations and bus stands and almost everywhere. Although in the popular beach resorts of Kerala, think Kovalam and Varkala, where many international travellers flock to, it is easy to find cuisine that cater to a varied taste. Here even in small cafes that dot the roadside, one can dig into some amazing and freshly made banana

Omnipresent! 4. Idli-VadaSambar

pancakes, toast, omelettes, lassis and fruit shakes. Espresso is also available along with freshly baked bread, fresh fruit salads with honey, grated coconut and curd.

Main Meals: Lunch and Dinner The main meals comprise of boiled rice that are washed down with moru (curd or butter

FRUIT AND NUT

coconut - a key ingredient

COCONUT PASTE Avial

COCONUT OIL Cooking medium

COCONUT MILK Payasam, Ishtu

COCONUT POWDER Puttu, Chatni

COCONUT WATER Thirst Quencher

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milk) or rasam and vegetable Heavy Fuel! curries. A dish called pachadi 1. Thoran is cooked with mango cuts 2. Kozhikodan Biriyani mixed with spices. Here again, sambar finds its way on to the plates â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the venerable and fiery hot curry made of dal and seasonal veggies. Thoran is a coconut-based dish mixed with chopped vegetables and curry leaves. Pappadam, which is a crunchy flake made of rice flour, chutneys and pickles, are also consumed without which a meal is considered to be incomplete. A prominent sect of food in Kerala is Moplah cuisine. The Malayalam speaking Muslims of Kerala, more particularly in the northern districts known as Malabar, are known as Moplahs. The term is derived from Mapillai, meaning newlywed groom or son-in-law of the house (both in Tamil and Malayalam). It might also have come from Mahapillai or a person held in esteem and respect. Their ancestry goes back to the Arabs who had come to trade with Kerala, famed for its pepper and spices not to mention the ubiquitous coconut and its many

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byproducts. This trade had been going on for long, well before the birth of Prophet Muhammad and continued with the advent of Islam. The local chieftains of Kerala with its long coastline welcomed traders from beyond the seas and the local inhabitants did not lag behind in receiving them with open arms. Hence, the Arab influence is predominant in many of the dishes here like the Alisa, which is a hearty wheat and meat porridge, and, of course, the robust and delectable Kozhikodan biryani. Muslim communities prepare dishes primarily made from wheat. They prepare cuisines like parottas and pathiris which are made from flour and are fried. They are served together with vegetable and non-vegetable dishes. They also cook chappatis and pooris.

A Meen Menu While you cruise through the long coastline and many inland waterways of Kerala, you canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t resist yourself tasting some (or all) delicacies of this fish-addicted state. Fishes are the prime food of Kerala. Even though the same ingredients are added, each colony within Kerala has its own unique way of garnering them to cook dishes that are strikingly different from one another. Taste a few of those dried,

but delicious preparations of sole, shark, crab, oyster and eel. Don’t forget to ask for the most prized fish preparation, ‘Fish Moilee’ (fish curry) of the celebrated ‘karimeen’ or the brackish fresh water fish, sold at every waterfront location. If you have traveller’s luck, you can even

get the opportunity to taste the Moplah biryani, actually worthy of praise. Don’t get overwhelmed to see the plump grains of rice lie supine and separate as if they’ve had their fill with spices and meat juices, topped with

Lip smacking! 3. Fish Moilee

ALPHABET STEW

The Mainstays of Kerala’s Cuisine

Avial

Biriyani

Cheeda

Dosa

Fish Moilee

Gothambu Payasam

Idli

Kalan

Medu Vada

NoolPuttu

Olan

Poduthol

Rasam

Sambar

Thoran

Uppama

Ven Pongal

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words anu bhalla design sid ghosh

there is divinity in the beauty of its landscape and its cultural milieu is a synonym for harmonious co-existence. here are the events and experiences that have shaped Kerala into a kaleidoscope of living colours KERALA TRAVELLER

there is Kerala and there is India!

ABU ABRAHAM

KERALA TRAVELLER

hen the late Abu Abraham said, “there is Kerala and there is India”, he could very well have been talking about the country’s most idyllic state whose topography, culture and exotica sets it apart from the rest of the country. Often touted as ‘Gods Own Country’, Kerala is possibly one of the most sought after tourist destinations in India today. Secluded beaches, palm-fringed backwaters, mist-clad hill stations, lush tropical forests, cascading waterfalls, exotic wildlife, majestic monuments, fine art forms and mesmerising festivals give it a distinctive charm. Apart from being a tourist destination, Kerala is home to India’s most advanced society with a 100 per cent literacy rate, highest density of science and technology personnel, highest Physical Quality of Life Index (PQLI ), highest life expectancy and the lowest infant mortality rate; this state could very well be the montage of modern India.

While there are many agricultural and technological industries thriving and prospering in Kerala, tourism industry comes across as an icing on the cake. The state is blessed with natural beauty and an all-time fair-weather which makes it the preferred destination for a varied spectrum of travellers. Let’s take a look at the birth and growth of this state that is strategically located at the south western tip of India.

THE GENESIS || Mythological

METHODOLOGY ||

Parasurama, the short-tempered warriorsage, is widely regarded as the incarnation of Lord Vishnu in Hinduism. After defeating the Kshathriya Kings, the sage approached the wise men for penance. As a self-mortification he was advised to create a land for Brahmins. He readily agreed and meditated at Gokarnam, (considered to be the end of land). After obtaining boons from Varuna - the God of the Oceans, and Bhumidevi the Goddess of Earth, it is believed that he proceeded to Kanyakumari (Cape Comorin) and threw his battle-axe northwards across the waters. The waters subsided and what was left over was called the land of Parasurama - today’s Kerala.

CONTRASTING SCIENCE Geologists have pointed out that the elevation of Kerala from the sea was the result of some seismic activity, either suddenly or gradually. Another school of thought prevalent in scientific society is that the rivers of Kerala emptying into the Arabian Sea bring down enormous quantities of silt from the hills. The ocean currents transport quantities of sand towards the shore. The coastal portions could well be due to the accumulation of this silt over thousands of years.

Early Civilisation The earliest inhabitants of Kerala were the Pulayas, Kuravas and Vetas. It is at a much later time that migratory Aryan populations from the north landed and subjugated them by establishing a caste system. By the beginning of the Christian era, the Cheran Dynasty had spread across all the way to the Western Ghats. The armies of Mauryan Dynasty could not enter the lands of the Cheras. With time, the rule of Cheran Dynasty declined, it coincided with the rise of the Brahmins in Kerala. By the 10th century, they were a powerful entity from Gokurnum (North Kerala) to Kanyakumari or Cape Comorin. These land-owning class of Brahmins were well on their way to great wealth and power. To further consolidate their power, they developed a Caste System (segregation between classes of people). Lands were leased out to next higher castes for share-cropping, and these in turn would further be leased out to those lower

erala has a distinct and diverse cultural and religious landscape. When the Jews were driven out of central Asia by the middle of the first millennia BC, they came to Kerala and started thriving here. When St Thomas came here, he was amazed at the religious liberty given by the state to its people. He established a church in Kerala in the year 52 AD when even Constantinople did not have a church. When Prophet Muhammad founded Islam, Keralites embraced it and the kings here invited Arabic architects to raise mosques. This

on the caste hierarchy and to non-Hindus who would be the tillers of the land. The lowest caste, of course, were only labourers and were traded along with the land. In such a rigid hierarchy, the all-powerful Nambudiris (Brahmins of Kerala) were the unquestioned rulers. The Christians who had arrived from the Middle East in the 3rd century AD and the Muslims who arrived in the 8th century were generally traders and were not involved in this social segregation and generally kept aloof from the ambit of caste politics. The Jews who arrived on the shores of Kerala in the early years of the Christian era were given privileges to trade and became an influential part of the melting pot of Keralaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s population. Gradually, Kerala entered a phase of feudal chieftains or warlords, called Naduvazhis. The Nambudiris anointed some of them. At the turn of the 11th century AD

tolerance of cultural values has persisted through the ages precisely for the reasons of antiquity, unity, continuity and universality of its nature. In its widest sense, it embraces the highest achievements of the human spirit in every sphere of life. Thus, in its totality, the state of Kerala represents the quintessence of the collective achievements of people in the fields of religion and philosophy, language and literature, art and architecture, education and learning, and economic and social organisation. In fact, all through its history, the genius of Kerala has blossomed forth in all its vigour and vitality and has helped its people to reach the peak of excellence in all their endeavours.

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there was a power struggle in the caste system supported by the landlords and ruled by the warlords. This in turn gave rise to instability in the absence of strong central leadership. As a result, wars and conflicts became a common feature in the socio-political make-up. Ultimately, three warlords emerged with some semblance of authority in their regions - the Zamorin of Calicut (Samuthiri of Kozhikode) to the North, Moopins of Perimpadappu (near modern day Kochi) in the central regions, and chieftain of Kollam.

SYRIA UR EGYPT IVORY TEAK cOTTon cinnamon

THE EUROPEAN ADVENT The Portuguese Play Their Hand Ancient Kerala occupied a unique place in the commercial world. There are traces of teak found in the ruins of Ur – the ancient city in Mesopotamia – which must certainly have come from the Malabar coast. This means trade flourished around 3000 BC. Cotton from this region was a favourite in Egypt; the Phoenicians visited the coast of Malabar around the same

poetry in motion The rich repertoire of Kerala’s dance-forms is one of the most cogent evidence of its myriad culture and tradition. Throughout history, dance has been a part of ceremonies, rituals, celebrations and entertainment in Kerala. Many dance forms of Kerala are among the most graceful and beautiful in the world. These dance forms are reflections of the diverse religious and cultural traditions of Kerala. The dance forms of Kerala can be divided into roughly three types - folk dances, dance dramas and semi-classical dances. Kathakali, the best known dance form of Kerala is one of the most fascinating dance-drama in the world. Kerala is the birthplace of two classical dance forms: Kathakali and Mohiniattam. The former has only male performers, and the latter can only be performed by females.

KathakalI

This dance form owes its origin to the 17th century Kerala. It is a highly evolved form of dancedrama, where over-the-top facial expressions and

time to trade in ivory, sandalwood and spices. King Solomon is said to have sent his commercial fleet to Ophir, a port or region mentioned in the Bible, famous for its wealth, which is said to be somewhere in Southern Kerala. Muziris (today known as Kodungalloor or Cannonade) was reputed to be the ancient world’s greatest trading centre in the East for such highly prized possessions as pepper, cin

mudras or hand formations play crucial roles in infusing life to the characters. In Kathakali, recital, emotive expressions of the elaborately costumed performers with colourfully painted faces amalgamate with their fluid dance movements to take the viewers to a new aesthetic level, where only music, dance and pantomime narration rule. Kathakali is also known as the king of the performing arts as it combines five main fine arts such as painting, literature, acting, music and dance. It combines aspects of ballet, opera, pantomime and masque in it. The themes of Kathakali are generally mythological, and are centered around Ramayana and Mahabharata. Kerala’s famous wood items with magnificent carvings are used for costumes. The face painting requires about three to five hours and the colours are made up of vegetable dyes. Lime, indigo, soot, sulphur, rice paste and vermilion are used for painting the face, which is rubbed with coconut oil. Two male singers sing the songs which accompany these dance performances. These songs are known as Kathakali Padam. The instruments used are the ela talam, the maddalam, the chengila and the chenda.

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THE LIE OF THE LAND Kerala is bordered by land on three sides and by the Arabian Sea at the west. It shares its border with the state of Karnataka at the north and the rest of Kerala shares its border with Tamil Nadu. In fact, almost the whole of the western and southern frontiers of Kerala are surrounded by Tamil Nadu. Kerala is divided into three geographical regions:

1. Highlands The Highlands slope down from the Western Ghats (also known as the Sahyadri) which rise to an average height of 900 m, with a number of peaks well over 1800 m in height. It is 18,650 sq km in area and accounts for 48 per cent of the total land area of Kerala. This is the area of major plantations like tea, coffee, rubber and various spices. This area is often known as the Cardamom Hills. This region is one of the largest producers of many spices especially cardamom from which it earns its name. Anaimudi (2694 meters), the highest peak in India after the Himalayas, is in the Munnar division of the Western Ghats. Most of the rivers of Kerala originate from the Western Ghats.

2. Midlands The Midlands, lying between the mountains and the lowlands, is made up of undulating hills and valleys. It is 16,200 sq km in area i.e., about 40 per cent of the total land area. This is an area of intensive cultivation. Cashew, coconut, arecanut, tapioca, banana and vegetables of different varieties are grown in this area.

3. Lowlands Lowlands are also known as the Coastal Area. It covers an area of almost 4000 sq km. It is made up of numerous shallow lagoons known locally as kayels, river deltas, backwaters and shores of the Arabian Sea and is essentially a land of coconuts and rice. This area is very fertile and most of the paddy cultivation is along this area. Kuttanad region of Kerala is one of the very few places in India where cultivation is done below sea level. Water is the main mode of transportation in these areas.

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TOTAL coastline

580

KERALA BY

NUMBERS A small strip of land in the south-west corner of India, Kerala lies to the north of the equator between

8° 18’ 12° 48’ 74° 52’ and

north latitude and

77° 24’

and

east longitude.

TOTAL AREA sq km

38,863

MAXIMUM width

120

MinIMUM width km

A SHOWCASE OF

, NATURE S

BOUNTY Though small in size, Kerala is a land affluent in water sources. Forty-four rivers water the land, of which 41 are west flowing and three flow east. Apart from these 44 main rivers, their tributaries and distributaries and a countless number of streams and rivulets crisscross the land making it green and fertile and also serves as inland waterways. Aside from these rivers, Kerala is bestowed with a number of lakes and backwater lagoons which add to the beauty of the land. Vembanad lake with a area of 260 sq km is the longest lake in India and the largest in the state. Also, Shastamkotta lake is the largest natural fresh water lake in the region.

Weather The coastal state of Kerala lying on the Southwestern tip of India has commonly been called the tropical paradise of India. Bounded by Arabian Sea at one side and the Western Ghats on the other, the beautiful land with stunning beauty has an equable and tropical climate offering a pleasing atmosphere throughout the entire year. This coastal state has hot and humid climate during April-May and pleasant, cold climate in DecemberJanuary. The state doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have to undergo any dry period with the heat of hot, scorching sun like the northern and central parts of India. Summer extends from the month of April to June. During this period the temperature reaches to a maximum of 33 degrees Celsius which is considered less when compared other states of India. The minimum temperature remains within 20 degree Celsius at sea level. Summer is followed by South West Monsoon that starts pouring in the month of June and continues till September. Though there is no distinct difference in the climatic conditions, increase in humidity can be noted. Sometimes the downpour may continue persistently even for two or three days. In this period, maximum rainfall is received by Vaithiri-Kuttiyadi range in Malabar and Peerumedu in Idukki. The rainfall is comparatively much less in the Lakshadweep Islands. In the northern regions of Kerala, the rainfall is around 80 per cent and in the southern regions the rainfall ranges from 40-50 per cent. Actually the existence of the Western Ghats on the eastern side of the

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Do not miss out on these activities when you are in Godâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own country

Savour a sadya A sadya is a typically vegetarian meal, which consists of boiled rice and 1012 dishes, followed with 2-3 desserts, mostly served at weddings, festivals or special occasions. Must try -- Payasam (Dessert).

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Attend a Boat Race Boat races are normally held during the Onam festival time (August/ September). Long boats approximately 100 feet long and manned by over 100 rowers take part in the race cheered by thousands of spectators. The thrill is contagious. You could hop on to one of them and row beyond the finishing line.

3 Attend Kathakali Kathakali is a dance form in which actors do not speak but enact dialogues, sung by singers in the background. The emphasis is on facial expressions. Mudras or hand signs too have significance. Kathakali actors excel in the presentation of the most beautiful and most violent scenes with equal skill. The whole face of the artist is painted and it appears as though he is wearing a mask. Performed in front of lighted oil lamps in traditional theatres, this sophisticated art form takes you to the hoary past of the epics.

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