Epicure Good Food Guide

Page 1

Signature Oysters: Media

Signature Oysters: Media

SMALL BUT PERFECTLY FORMED BY: KEVA GOCHER

28 APRIL 2015

Picture: Pat Scala

Doors Open: Morgan McGlone, Miranda Campbell, Adam Shoebridge, Peter Jo and George McCullogh at Bar Clarine

T

he hotly anticipated natural

them with cucumber, bay oil

Manning the wine collection

wine bar sidekick to Belle’s

and white pepper is chef Adam

(cellared off-site in Collingwood)

Hot Chicken, Bar Clarine,

Shoebridge, an ex co-worker of

is George McCullough, the young

McGlone’s from Husk in the US.

sommelier with strong game

opened a few weeks ago. The menu

courtesy of time at the Builders. It’s

will change every 10 days, and every second you spend reading

It’s wine-food menu that maintains

an international cellar with minimal-

this decreases your chances of a

the Southern accent of next door,

interventionist heart, which McGlone

seat. The new project by Morgan

though mildly so. That might look

has been building since October,

McGlone and Miranda Campbell

like sardines on toast with a tomato

and currently features rare French

is tiny, with just 22 seats and no

gravy (cornmeal cooked down with

cuvees and bonus non-wines such as

bookings.

tomatoes) or salad-meets-cheese-

Laurent Cazottes tomato eau de vie

plate hybrid mignonette hearts with

made with 72 types of the plant.

But if it’s small, it’s also ambitious

a malted onion dust and big curls of

and spry, a place of minimal

beaufort cheese. Other cheeses and

150 Gertrude Street, Fitzroy, 9077 0788,

intervention wines and maximum

terrines are being made in-house,

Tue-Sat 5pm - 11:30pm (later when the

fun for oenophiles who have

while the fresh produce driving the

license expands).

reached peak hot chicken.

menu is being negotiated with a

Shucking signature oysters, serving

farm collective in Monbulk.


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