Trend Research File

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CONTENTS

1

Industry Trends

5

2

Macro - Environment PESTEL

9

3

Contemporary Historical Relevance

23

4

Street Fashion

29

5

Lifestyle trends

43

6

Cultural Trends

45

7

Think Tank Content

67

8

Trend Insight

71

9

Video Stills

73


10

Personal Concept

77

11

Colour Inspiration

79

12

Material Inspiration

93

13

Key Items

119

14

Market Sector

139

15

Brand Selection

147

16

Target Consumer

163

17

Future Marketing

167


INDUSTRY TRENDS


ELEMENTAL

According to The Atlantic magazine, people are no longer as excited by technological progress as they are exhausted by it. This trend voices a longing for quiet, contemplative design that is less of a burden and more of a sensitive, responsive experience. In this era of self-examination, and with a growing number of people reporting no religious affiliation, Elemental is also driven by society’s need for new meaning, as it explores the boundaries of spirituality and the inner workings of the self. /WGSN

6


Soft Self.

Beliefism.

Nature Contained.

Poetic Tech.

Quietly Epic.

Subtle Shifts.

7



macro environment pestel


POLITICAL 5P PLASTIC BAG CHARGE

Shoppers in England will now be charged 5p for each new large carrier bag as part of a change in the law that aims to reduce litter and protect the environment. In 2014 over 7.6 billion single-use plastic bags were given to customers by major supermarkets in England. That’s something like 140 bags per person, equivalent to 61,000 tonnes in total. They take longer than other bags to degrade in the environment, can damage wildlife, and are extremely visible when littered in our towns, parks and the countryside. We expect to see a significant reduction in the use of single-use plastic carrier bags as a direct result of the charge - by as much as 80% in supermarkets and 50% on the high street. /GOV

10


POLITICAL FEED-IN TARIFFS: GET MONEY FOR GENERATING YOUR OWN ELECTRICITY

There are various benefits to installing solar panels on your roof including tax free, government backed earnings and large savings on your energy bills. Here are the top 5: 1. Earn £14,000 from the Government feed-in tariff. Not only does the Government pay you for the energy you generate and use, but also the energy you don’t use. This money is TAX FREE and rises in line with inflation 2. Save 50% on your energy bills per year because the electricity you use when your solar panels are in use is 100% FREE 3. Protect yourself from the rising energy costs and stop being dependent on large energy companies. You generate your own electricity! 4. Reduce you carbon footprint and start doing your bit for the environment 5. Add value to your home – Estate agents are now looking at solar panels as a revenue generating asset /The Eco Experts

11


ECONOMIC BUDGET 2015: CHANGES TO INCOME TAX AND THE PERSONAL ALLOWANCE

Millions of families will be given tax breaks from next year earlier than previously expected as part of changes announced in today’s summer Budget. Speaking at Westminster today, Chancellor George Osborne promised to lift 130,000 families out of higher-rate income tax altogether as part of his pledge to “deliver a lowwelfare, low-tax economy.” Mr Osborne plans to raise the higher-rate tax threshold, when the 40p rate of income tax kicks in, from £42,385 to £43,000 next year. This could save middle-class families up to £1,300 a year. /The Telegraph

12


ECONOMIC NEW UK IMMIGRATION RULES

Non-EU migrants who have spent more than five years working in the country will be required to earn ÂŁ35,000 per year or else face deportation, according to a policy that comes into effect in April next year. /The Guardian

13


SOCIAL INSIDE FASHION’S INSTAGRAM WARS

Fashion’s premier social media platform is a battleground for consumer engagement. As the highly visual Instagram has emerged as fashion’s social media platform of choice, brands have become savvier about how they leverage the app to impress and engage followers — especially during ‘fashion month’, when the stakes are higher than ever. /The Business of Fashion

14


SOCIAL SELFIE CULTURE

The web is humming with analysis around selfie taking. You probably don’t need the hard numbers to guess the average selfie taker is female and aged 18-24. Some 48% of selfies are posted to Facebook, 27% are texted, 9% tweeted and 8% ‘grammed. Makati City in the Philippines has the highest ratio of selfie takers to population, followed by Manhattan and Miami. And there’s even a company that analyses average head tilt by geography. There’s been a 39% increase in new arrivals of all in ones and 27% increase in arrivals of swimwear at our selfie-serving retailers. Better still, it seems like selfie gen are influenced – full priced sell outs of swimwear grew by 238% this July compared to last and 197% growth in all in ones selling out. /Edited

15


SOCIAL MASS CUSTOMISATION

Ours is a customisable world. From Spotify playlists to sandwiches, we routinely custombuild things according to our individual tastes and requirements. Indeed, in industries as diverse as window manufacturing and personal computers, it is now the norm for companies to tailor individual products to the needs of individual customers. /The Business of Fashion

Initialled Burberry scarf

16


TECHNOLOGICAL FOOD PRINTING: PRINT2TASTE’S BOCUSINI

It is now possible to 3D print food from over thirty fresh, natural products. Print2Taste’s Bocusini is the first universal plug&play 3D food printing platform, that includes a plug&play food printer, cartridges with printable food and the Bocusini.com online platform, a marketplace for experts and enthusiasts that support discovery, making, and sharing of 3D printable food creations. “Bocusini isn’t just for chefs, food scientists or 3D designers: anyone can learn to create and print its own food designs.” /Trendtablet

17


TECHNOLOGICAL 3D PRINTING: NEW SKINS

It’s a three-week intensive interdisciplinary research called, New Skins, where students and professionals in the fashion, art, architecture and computing industries join forces to design and fabricate second skins for the body. Students are immersed in complex 3D modeling, and generate a wide range of geometric formations ranging from organic bone-like structures to articulated chainmail meshes. The project captures the human body via 3D scanning technology, and with the help of robotics and sensing technology, creates smart transformable garments that are as much art as they are an exercise in mechanics and human anatomy. The entire design was printed on two MakerBots using MakerBot’s new Flexible Filament material which allowed the designers to produce a flexible, 3D-printed garment that is able to conform to the body’s movement when worn. /Trendtablet

18


TECHNOLOGICAL LISTEN TO THIS

London – HearAngel is the FitBit app for hearing that helps people manage their Daily Sound Allowance. Infographics show whether users are close to reaching their Daily Sound Allowance (DSA). Manage mode automatically controls sound volume to regulate exposure to sound. Using HearAngel will help people to preserve their hearing for longer. /LSN

HearAngel from LimitEar, London 19


TECHNOLOGICAL MUSE - THE BRAIN SENSING HEADBAND

The company describes Muse as an ‘integrated system to help people calm their minds.’ Users wear the headband and interact with a smartphone app that helps them visualize and, eventually, control their mental state. The first app to ship with the product shows users a beach scene, which grows stormy or peaceful depending on the brain waves registered by the device. Additional functionality is unlocked when users earn enough points for clear-headedness. /LSN

20


ENVIRONMENTAL I:CO: THE COMPANY THAT MIGHT FIX FASHION’S WASTE PROBLEM

Fashion’s an industry that thrives on newness, and one unfortunate side effect of that is waste. Americans alone discard 21 billion pounds of clothing and footwear every year. Fortunately there’s I:CO (it stands for I Collect), a company committed to fighting this problem. I:CO has partnered with brands like H&M, American Eagle, Levi’s, North Face, and Puma to wean each off its natural resources addiction, working to replace those materials with recycled options over the next five years. “In an ideal world, materials will be able to flow ‘endlessly’ which means that materials tied in products can be used over and over again for new products after the end of the products’ life-cycles,” I:CO managing director Nicole Kösegi tells Racked. /Racked

21


LEGAL SHOPPER POWER!

30-day refunds are now guaranteed for items that are faulty in biggest reform to consumers’ rights in a generation Breakthrough Consumer Rights Act 2015 will come into effect on Thursday. It means retailers will no longer be able to offer repairs instead of refunds and companies will no longer be allowed to hide charges in the smallprint. Dramatic new law is designed to ensure shoppers can enforce their rights. /Daily Mail

22


contemporary historical relevance


DESIGN INSPIRED BY AMERICAN MODERNISM AND JAPANESE POTTERY

Ancient bowl by Hiroshi Okada

Marshmallow Sofa by George Nelson, 1956

Earthenware Vase by Kitamura Junko, 1991

Coconut chairs by George Nelson, 1955

Plywood chairs by Donald Judd, 1991 George Nakashima table 24

Wooden bowl by Finn Juhl, 1950’s


ART INSPIRED BY AMERICAN MODERNISM AND POSTWAR TIME ARTWORKS Illustration by Charley Harper

Untitled 1 by Mark Rothko, 1967

1980’s artwork by John Noestheden

Maria by Ryno Swart, 1980s

Vintage Soviet Propaganda and Art Posters 25


FASHION INSPIRED BY SWINGING SIXTIES AND MASCULINE 1980’S

Christy Turlington, 1990

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27


28


Street fashion



SPRING/SUMMER 2016 NEW YORK FASHION WEEK

31


S/S 2016

32



SPRING/SUMMER 2016 PARIS FASHION WEEK

34


S/S 2016

35



SPRING/SUMMER 2016 LONDON FASHION WEEK

37


S/S 2016

38



SPRING/SUMMER 2016 MILAN FASHION WEEK

40


S/S 2016

41



LIFESTYLE TRENDS


LIFESTYLE TRENDS YESTERYEAR’S LIFESTYLE

In a contemporary world where every photo, text, soundtrack, any piece of information can be manipulated, doubt reigns; therefore a desire for truth entices young people to revive the old days and obsolete mechanical objects, with antique cameras, old-fashioned typewriters, or old telephones. /Trendtablet

44


cultural trends


ARCHITECTURE CANBERRA’S HOTEL HOTEL

Located in Canberra, Australia, Hotel Hotel is a holistic concept from the Australia-based Molonglo Group, founded on fertile principles of sustainability, community, diversity, and lifestyle. /Trendland

46


47


ARCHITECTURE SEYMOUR + : A TECH -FREE SPACE IN PARIS

SEYMOUR+ is a haven for the mind, providing visitors with the peace and quiet they need, especially those traveling and exploring Paris.

48


And by peace and quiet we really mean peace and quiet. External distractions and outside influences such as phones, computers, and magazines which typically hinder our abilities to fully process and access our thoughts are not permitted. /Trendland

49


ART EXHIBITIONS BEAUTY AT THE EXPENSE OF NATURE

‘Pulverised Time’ by Belgian photographer Frederik Vercruysse is a series of sixteen unique still-life photographs in which a cloud of mysterious, powdery mist appears to be suspended. /Trendland

50



ART EXHIBITIONS DUST MATTERS

‘Dust matters’ by Lucie Libotte aims is to re-evaluate this ‘dirt’, and convey the value of dust as an indicator of our environment, showing how it reflects our daily life and traces our journey through the world /Trendtablet

52


53


ART EXHIBITIONS WOOD FOSSIL

The idea behind Italian studio Nucleo created objects is to evoke memories and blur the line between manmade and earth-made. /Trendtablet

54


Manmade but Decidedly Organic.

“Full of Scars’’ yet Seemingly Eternal.

55


FASHION ZADY: FASHION’S CLEAR CONSCIENCE

Zady is a shopping and lifestyle destination for consumers who care about the origins of the items they purchase.

56


Without sacrificing style or taste,  Zady upholds an unprecedented commitment to manufacturing transparency: each product featured on the site has been personally vetted by Zady’s founders, using criteria for sustainability, including whether the product is locally-sourced, handmade, uses high-quality raw materials, is environmentally conscious, or made in the U.S.A. /Trendtablet

57


SUSTAINABLE DESIGN POOR TOOLS

Designers downsize objects to their fundamental functionalities and look into essential materials in a need to establish emotional connections between the consumer and the product. Man & nature must work in synergy as a new generation of design graduates leads the way in tackling waste and creating ingenious sustainability solutions. /Trendland

58


Intentionally Imperfect Craft.

Sustainability Solutions and Modular Design.

59


SUSTAINABLE DESIGN FUTURE PACKAGING CONCEPTS

Tomorrow Machine is a creative studio based in Stockholm. Through the series This Too Shall Pass, the designers ask if it’s reasonable that it takes several years for a milk carton to decompose naturally, when the milk goes sour after a week. The packaging is therefore made with the same short life span as the food they contain, like a symbiosis. /Trendland

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61


SUSTAINABLE DESIGN ZERO FOOD WASTE RESTAURANT

ZERO WASTE Silo is designed from back to front, always with the bin in mind. The production of waste has been eliminated by simply choosing to trade directly with farmers, using re-usable delivery vessels and choosing local ingredients that themselves generated no waste. /Trendland

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63


TECHNOLOGY DESERT LAMPS

Nir Meiri’s collection of sand-molded, lamps are not only exquisitely designed, but also environmentally savvy. /Trendtablet

64


Abiding Connection Between Land and Identity.

An Invaluable Link Between Who We Are, Where We Come From and the World We Inhabit.

65


TECHNOLOGY GRAVITYLIGHT

Invented by London-based designers Jim Reeves and Martin Reddiford, GravityLight is a clean, safe and affordable alternative to kerosene lamps. It uses a bag filled with rocks or earth, attached to a cord, which slowly descends similar to the weight drive in a cuckoo clock. /Trendtablet

66


think tank content


PAST INSPIRATION

The Virgin Of Guadalupe

“Fallingwater” by Frank Lloyd Wright, 1939

Uncontrollable Natural disaster caused by the elements

68


PRESENT INSPIRATION

Seymour+: A tech - free space in Paris

NASA confirms evidence that liquid water flows on Mars

Balenciaga SS16

69


FUTURE INSPIRATION

Simplicity and Serenity

Earthly Origins

Contrast in Nature

70


Trend insight


INDISTINCT NOT CLEARLY MARKED OR DEFINED, BEING ABLE TO OBSERVE FROM DIFFERENT ANGLES

Movie “Into the Wild”

Natural Disasters

72

The Four Elements: Water, Fire, Earth, Air

Contrast in Nature

“Fallingwater” by Frank Lloyd Wright, 1939


VIDEO STILLS


74


75


76


PERSONAL CONCEPT


RECRYSTALLIZED to become crystallized again by purifying chemical compounds

78


COLOUR inspiration


WGSN COLOURS

80


WGSN COLOURS

81


WGSN COLOURS

82


WGSN COLOURS

83


WGSN COLOURS

84


PERSONAL COLOUR INSPIRATION

85


PERSONAL COLOUR INSPIRATION

86


PERSONAL COLOUR INSPIRATION

87


PERSONAL COLOUR INSPIRATION

88


PERSONAL COLOUR INSPIRATION

89


PERSONAL COLOUR INSPIRATION

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PERSONAL COLOUR INSPIRATION

91



material inspiration


WGSN MATERIALS CAPTURED ATMOSPHERES

94


WGSN MATERIALS POWDER FLURRY

95


WGSN MATERIALS FOGGY ATMOSPHERES

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WGSN MATERIALS FROSTED DENIM

97


WGSN MATERIALS SMOKY LUMINESCENCE

98


WGSN MATERIALS GRANULAR TWEEDS

99


WGSN MATERIALS NATURAL IMPRESSION

100


WGSN MATERIALS WEATHER WORN

101


WGSN MATERIALS FRAGILE LAYERS

102


WGSN MATERIALS DELICATELY WILD

103


WGSN MATERIALS INNER SANCTUARY

104


WGSN MATERIALS ATMOSPHERIC TRACE

105


WGSN MATERIALS CALCIFIED FORM

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WGSN MATERIALS MINERAL STRATA

107


PERSONAL MATERIAL INSPIRATION CHUNKY KNITS

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PERSONAL MATERIAL INSPIRATION KNITTED BRAIDS

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PERSONAL MATERIAL INSPIRATION LINEN

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PERSONAL MATERIAL INSPIRATION MOHAIR WOOL

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PERSONAL MATERIAL INSPIRATION WOOL

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PERSONAL MATERIAL INSPIRATION MISTY SHEER

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PERSONAL MATERIAL INSPIRATION PEARLS

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PERSONAL MATERIAL INSPIRATION ROSE GOLD

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PERSONAL MATERIAL INSPIRATION LEATHER

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PERSONAL MATERIAL INSPIRATION WOOD

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KEY Items


WGSN

KEY ITEMS

120


121


PERSONAL CATWALK RESEARCH

AKRIS

HUGO BOSS 122


ACNE - PRE /

EACH x OTHER

/

ALL SAINTS /

CO /

ACNE - PRE

/

ACNE - PRE /

EACH x OTHER

/

ALL SAINTS /

CO /

ACNE - PRE

/

123


1205

124


MARNI / SALVATORE FERRAGAMO / VALENTINO / MARNI / SALVATORE

FERRAGAMO / VALENTINO / MARNI / SALVATORE FERRAGAMO /

125


MAX MARA

126


A DETACHER /

OFF - WHITE

/

VICTORIA BECKHAM

/

A DETACHER /

A DETACHER /

OFF - WHITE

/

VICTORIA BECKHAM

/

A DETACHER /

127


JOSEPH

128


JOSEPH

/

JOSEPH

/

JOSEPH

/

JOSEPH

/

JOSEPH

/

129


INSPIRATIONAL RETAIL RESEARCH

130

Lemaire

Adam Lippes

Spencer Vladimir

Joseph

Maison Margiela

Tibi


Karl Donoghue

Fendi

Fendi

Stella McCartney

Valentino

Co

Acne Studios

Chloe

Givenchy

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132

Max Mara Studio

Stella McCartney

DSquared2

Mugler

Carven

J. W. Anderson

Rag & Bone

Givenchy

Stella McCartney


INSPIRATIONAL DESIGN ELEMENTS CHIC MINIMALISM

133


INSPIRATIONAL DESIGN ELEMENTS EXTRAORDINARY SHAPE

Serpens Collection by Qiu Hao 134



INSPIRATIONAL DESIGN ELEMENTS LAYERED KNITS

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MARKET SECTOR


LUXURY MARKET SELECTION OVERVIEW

The sector is re-envisaging and redefining what luxury will mean in the 21st century. An ability to play with paradox and deploy disruption will be key for ambitious brands looking to 2020 and beyond. Brands are tying traditional ideas of heritage and artisanship to disruptive new technologies, product offers, services and experiences. /LSN

7%

140

The global luxury market is growing at an annual rate of 7%, according to Bain & Co

£545bn

And was worth £545bn ($850bn, €769bn) in 2015, according to Bain & Co

£50bn

The US luxury market was valued at £50bn ($77bn, €68.6bn) in 2014 – twice as large as second-placed Japan


LUXURY MARKET ANALYSIS

As an aspiration and notion, luxury has never been so accessible. Luxury in 2015 is beyond borders. The sector now holds value for all, from the super-luxe to the masstige consumer, from Kampala to Kiev. /LSN

32% £305bn

Emerging markets continue to drive growth. By 2025, luxury womenswear sales in developing economies will account for 32% of the global total, up from 10% in 2005, according to McKinsey By 2019, luxury goods spending will hit £305bn (€413bn, $463bn), an increase of 88% over 10 years, according to Euromonitor

141


LUXURY MARKET ANALYSIS

CYBER GAP Online was the fastest-growing luxury sales channel in 2014, up by 28% on the previous year, and is expected to drive 40% of global luxury sales by 2020, according to Bain & Co and Exane BNP Paribas. Future digital sales are ‘the next China for luxury in terms of opportunity’, says Lucie Greene, worldwide director of JWT Intelligence. Half (50%) of purchase decisions for luxury goods are influenced by what consumers hear or see online, according to McKinsey. /LSN

The Net Set app by Net-a-Porter, UK

142


LUXURY MARKET ANALYSIS

US REIGN There is an enormous luxury secret hiding in plain sight: the US. North America is ‘probably the safest growth driver we can imagine’, says Michele Norsa, CEO of Salvatore Ferragamo. Rather than one of the latest emerging economies, the US represents the biggest underexplored opportunity for brands. As the world’s largest luxury market, the US accounts for nearly a quarter of global luxury goods sales – more than twice that of second-placed Japan, according to Deloitte. /LSN

Byredo, New York

143


LUXURY MARKET ANALYSIS

BILLIONAIRE BOOM Post-crash austerity has made a dent in global middle-class luxury spending. But for the world’s wealthiest luxurians, the good times have continued to roll. Eight out of 10 (82%) ultra-high-net-worth individuals (UHNWIs) saw their fortunes increase in 2014, and 80% of wealth advisors expect their clients’ wealth to grow further in 2015, according to Knight Frank. The US, home to 44,922 UHNWIs, compared to 60,565 in the whole of Europe, is the world’s billionaire capital, says Knight Frank, and will continue to be so until at least 2024, when its population of super-rich will have increased by 25% to almost 51,000. /LSN

Flying Reimagined Etihad Airways TV ad featuring Nicole Kidman

144


LUXURY MARKET ANALYSIS

METRO MAGNETS Certain groups of cities are becoming specialist draws for particular luxurian groups. The largest markets for luxury women’s apparel include fashion capitals such as Milan, New York and Paris, according to McKinsey. The US contains six of the top 10 luxury spending cities of the world, and more than 40% of the top 50, according to Boston Consulting Group. But Luxury 600 cities in emerging economies will drive future growth. /LSN

Just Cavalli flagship store, New York

145



brand SElection


THE ROW ABOUT THE BRAND

THE ROW was established in 2006 by Ashley Olsen and Mary-Kate Olsen. Since its launch, the brand has expanded to include a range of ready-to-wear, eyewear, and handbags. THE ROW reflects a sense of relaxed and timeless elegance, focusing on fine fabrics and the perfect fit. In 2012, The Council of Fashion Designers of America named Ashley and Mary-Kate as Womenswear Designers of The Year. Part of THE ROW’s mission is to support high-end fashion manufacturing in the US.

148


THE ROW THE ROW: THE QUIET ONES

The Row — its name derived from the holy grail of tailoring Savile Row — is sold through 164 points of distribution in 37 countries with industry insiders estimating $50 million in annual sales. The company has around 60 employees, seven on the design team, including Mary-Kate and Ashley. A Paris office opened in 2011 and the European market is being nurtured slowly, while the U.S. makes up the bulk of distribution for the label. It’s quiet luxury at its finest, rendered through a slow-wrought artisanal approach. Everything The Row offers, aside from a few sweaters, is produced domestically, a practice that is reflected in the collection’s price tags, which range from around $300 for a T-shirt to nearly $5,000 for a classic coat. /WWD

149


THE ROW 2015 CFDA FASHION AWARDS NOMINEES The Row, set up by TV stars the Olsen twins in 2006, was nominated this week for two Council of Fashion Designers of America awards (CFDAs) – Womenswear Designer of the Year and Accessory Designer of the Year. The American equivalent of the British Fashion Awards, the Olsens are in the company of Marc Jacobs, Michael Kors and Proenza Schouler, and it’s safe to say that the twins are no longer ageing child stars trying their hand at fashion. Their success is being taken seriously. What’s more, the CFDAs are familiar territory – they have won both of these awards before. /The Guardian

Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen at CFDA Fashion Awards 150


THE ROW THE ROW DIVES INTO RETAIL

Nearly a decade after founding The Row, Ashley and Mary-Kate Olsen on Tuesday will open the brand’s first flagship — a 3,800-square-foot store at 8440 Melrose Place that looks like the quintessential midcentury modern California pad, right down to the swimming pool in its glass courtyard. They both refer to the store as “a hidden gem” because, save for a short white signpost on the cobblestone sidewalk, a brushed steel plaque and a narrow window displaying an antique cabinet filled with folded white T-shirts and a signature backpack, none of the actual store is visible from the street. /WWD

The Row flagship store on Melrose Place in Los Angeles

151


THE ROW LINDA RODIN FOR PRE-FALL 2014 LOOKBOOK 65-Year-old Linda Rodin on modelling for the Olsens: ‘I was respected for who I am’. Instead of the usual willowy teen modeling the elegant garments, we saw beauty guru and style icon Linda Rodin. Age: 65 years old. It’s not the first time The Row took this type of direction. Back in 2008, Lauren Hutton (at the time 64-years-old) posed for the brand’s lookbook, and the designers have never been a pair to stick to industry standards. /Elle

152


THE ROW MADE IN USA

The Made-in-America label has undergone a deluxe makeover. Everyone from Brooks Brothers to the Olsen twins is using it to hawk luxury goods, a tactic made popular by blue-collar brands such as Levi Strauss & Co. and Chrysler Corp. The Olsens’ women’s label, New York-based The Row, uses factories in its home city and Los Angeles to make fashions such as its $250 white T-shirts and $2,350 short dresses. The brand has found favor with the likes of First Lady Michelle Obama and actress Julianne Moore, as well as with critics: The former “Full House” child stars got a nomination this year for a new talent award by the Council of Fashion Designers of America. /Bloomberg

Michelle Obama wearing The Row for her appearance on The View

153


THE ROW EYEWEAR

154



THE ROW LEATHER GOODS

156



THE ROW READY TO WEAR

158



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TARGET CONSUMER


THE ROW TARGET CONSUMER

Older women are The Row’s target consumers, an unusual choice for 20-something designers. The Row’s customer, Ashley Olsen said, is “probably 40s, 50s, it really could be any age. She’s—the women that I know are—sophisticated, very educated within the world of fashion” and appreciates finer fabrics and craftsmanship. That age group is also more likely to be able to afford The Row than a woman in her 20s. /The Wall Street Journal

Liliya Rakh, 53, wearing The Row

164


THE ROW CONSUMER LIFESTYLE - THE ATHENA WOMAN

Meet the modern woman. Educated. Affluent. Confident. Optimistic. She will rise to the top of her company, or start her own. She embraces community – online and offline. With her busy lifestyle, she’s looking for services that boost her fitness and wellbeing. She wants property and luxury goods. She won’t be patronised. She is The Athena. Today’s woman is online, using social networks to find out which products work and how companies operate. She’s a child of the internet, a queen of research and a mistress of social media. She can dig down, reach out and touch larger social groups online – so don’t con her, piss her off, or underestimate her ability to seek you out and bring you down! On the other hand, help her to make the world a better place through what she does and what she buys, and, like her male equivalent, she’ll thank you for it. Finally, forget that she’s a woman, and talk to the person – empowered, curious, connected – that she is, and not to the cliché that advertising, marketing and poor research have made her over the years. /LSN

M&S Britain’s Leading Ladies 165



future MARKETING


CONTEMPORARY MARKETING SNAPCHAT MARKETING

Most brands aim to create marketing campaigns that leave a lasting impression. But now some brands are turning to the blink-and-you’ll-miss-it medium of Snapchat to create campaigns that are over in a flash. Snapchat appeals to the short attention span of Generation D and the spontaneity of Millennials. In September, Snapchat CEO Evan Spiegel announced that users were sharing 350m photos per day. Connect with these young, digitally savvy consumers by creating targeted Snapchat campaigns. The limited time consumers can access the images provides a sense of exclusivity and the Snapchat Stories function can help you build a strong narrative around your brand. /LSN

NARS Cosmetics, Snapchat promotion for the Guy Bourdin collection

168


CONTEMPORARY MARKETING LOUIS VUITTON’S SERIES 3 EXHIBITION

“I don’t want to tell the customer anything,” Burke smiled as we walked the vast retro space, still stepping over men in high-vis jackets mending and fixing and tidying in the hours before opening. “This isn’t a Vuitton lesson. I just want them to be able to feel it.” “This isn’t about celebrating the heritage of Louis Vuitton - we’ve done that and we do that, but it’s not what this exhibition is about,” Burke nodded. “And it’s certainly not a retrospective for Nicolas, he’s just getting started. This is about the relationship between the clients and the house. The show is so short, and no matter how many people we allow in, no more than 1,000 people are going to see it. Even with livestream, there’s no way for enough people to be able to experience it the way we want them to, and that’s where the exhibition comes in.” /Vogue

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CONTEMPORARY MARKETING CHANEL SENT THE FASHION CROWD FLYING FOR SPRING 2016

Airport motifs came thick and fast as Karl Lagerfeld transformed Grand Palais into a chic departure lounge with a sprinkle of Chanel fairy dust. The set at Grand Palais included a large departure board featuring the destinations where the brand has held its recent resort fashion shows – from Dallas to Salzburg to Shanghai. Branded luggage trollies were abandoned by “Porte No 5”, while VIP guests were seated on rows of aluminium waiting-lounge chairs. On the catwalk, the show opened with a pilot in a high-collared, double-breasted uniform wheeling his flight trolley through departures. Next came a model wearing a house tweed, retro cut trouser suit, which hinted at a time when air travel was glamorous. Then the airport motifs came thick and fast. Cashmere jogging bottoms with a miniature plane print, departure board printed silks and tweed skirts that nodded to airline stewards’ uniforms. /The Guardian

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CONTEMPORARY MARKETING DESIGN SYNERGY

Mexico City – Anatole 13 is a new luxury retail space that combines modern art, design, fashion, food and drink. A multi-use retail space featuring a range of projects developed in collaboration with Savvy Studio. Follows the same formula as Savvy’s Córdoba 25, but this time features food and drinks brands for a truly integrated space. ‘Department stores are a completely different game, as are concept stores,’ Savvy Studio art director Bernardo Dominguez tells LS:N Global. ‘We really don’t identify ourselves with either. We believe in bringing projects together, creating a peculiar synergy from the mixture and becoming a place where consumers can come to discover new and interesting experiences.’ /LSN

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CONTEMPORARY MARKETING PRADA AND AUTUMN DE WILDE COLLABORATE FOR GALLERIA BAG SHORT FILMS

A villa in Los Angeles filled with Prada handbags might seem like an unlikely place to find director, photographer, and artist Autumn de Wilde. Though she has achieved most of her fame for her work in the music industry—portraits of Elliott Smith and music videos for Rilo Kiley among her oeuvre—De Wilde’s clever style is a well-suited match for a brand as inventive and exciting as Prada. It makes sense that the iconic Italian house came calling when it wanted to craft a film project around its Galleria bag—the first film ever about this specific product. Blending her signature joy with elements of comedy, surrealism, and, of course, some music, De Wilde created five shorts that tell the story of how a bag can be so much more than an accessory. /Vogue

“The Postman Dreams” by Autumn de Wilde for Prada 172


CONTEMPORARY MARKETING KENZO SHOOTS INSTAGRAM STARS

Kenzo, our fave off-the-wall French label, has created a new editorial for its revamped website, featuring a selection of fresh new faces found on Instagram. Showing off Kenzo’s cosy A/W15 outerwear styles are uni student/artist/actor Zaina Miuccia and LCF student Maximilian Davis, alongside model Sahara Lin This isn’t the first time a fashion brand has turned to the Internet to find models – last year Marc by Marc Jacobs famously sourced cool Instagram types for their S/S15 #CastMeMarc campaign. The idea is to put the spotlight on creative young talent with an influential social media presence, rather than using polished cookie-cutter agency models. /Spindle Magazine

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FUTURE MARKETING MIMICRY MARKETING

Marketers are mimicking digital behaviour in a bid to capture the attention of those online viewers who see ads as a nuisance to be skipped – or even blocked. Consumers have shorter attention spans than ever before, according to the National Center for Biotechnology Information at the US National Library of Medicine Advertising that mimics online behaviour – such as the tendency to click ‘skip’ – is finding success. D&AD launched its own plug-in for Google Chrome and Mozilla Firefox, the D&AD Ad Filter, for those who skip most ads, but still enjoy a good piece of creative work. Rather than block all advertising, the plug-in blocks ‘bad ads’ and will only show D&AD-winning advertisements, such as Volvo’s Epic Split ad, featuring Jean-Claude Van Damme, which clearly has popular appeal with more than 80m views on YouTube. ‘People love good advertising,’ says Mattox. ‘The Super Bowl is as much about the halftime ads as it is about the game. It’s not that all advertising is bad, it is that bad ads are bad.’ /LSN

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FUTURE MARKETING VIRTUAL OPULENCE

In the digital world, we are used to thinking about three channels: physical, desktop and mobile. Now a range of virtual technologies is creating new touchpoints for luxury consumers as aspirational brands experiment with Virtual Opulence. New digital tools are reshaping how we experience and buy from luxury brands High-end brands must remember to focus more on the needs of the consumer than on the potential of new devices and platforms. Virtual reality is becoming a potent tool for immersing your audience in the world of your brand. /LSN

Dior Eyes VR Experience by Digitas LBi Labs France

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FUTURE MARKETING OPT-OUT RETAIL

Seattle – Outdoor wear brand REI is to close its stores for Black Friday with the hashtag #OptOutside. The company will shut all of its 143 stores and pay every employee to go out and enjoy nature. Chooses to miss out on busiest day of the year and prioritises brand values over profit. An intriguing aspect of the initiative is that the brand is broadening the campaign by inviting other brands to do the same. The company seems to view its move as taking a stand against hyper-commercial culture, caricatured in the shopping frenzy that Black Friday induces in the US. /LSN

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FUTURE MARKETING EXPLORIUM RETAIL

Advances in e-commerce mean that consumers can now buy products anywhere, any time. Brands need to consider the physical store as a place of learning and inspiration, even if this means slowing the journey to purchase. Physical retail cannot compete with the immediacy and convenience of online Bricks-and-mortar stores are becoming brand embassies that facilitate rather than dictate consumer journeys. Create a physical emporium that opens your brand to interaction and facilitates serendipity and discovery. /LSN

Nike Studio created by Coordination Asia, Beijing 177


FUTURE MARKETING STAY A WHILE

Amsterdam – Inviting consumers to live the brand, Scotch & Soda has teamed up with Airbnb to create a flat that people can rent for the weekend. Part of Scotch & Soda’s The Story of Things campaign on the spirit of wanderlust. Renters will be provided with a select wardrobe of the brand’s clothing. /LSN

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FUTURE MARKETING CABIN FEVER

Tokyo – Japanese lifestyle brand Muji has unveiled three self-contained huts for Tokyo Design Week that provide an escape from the hustle and bustle of city life. The three huts are constructed from cork, aluminium and wood. Designed by Konstantin Grcic, Jasper Morrison and Naoto Fukasawa. /LSN

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FUTURE MARKETING THE SILENCE ROOM IN SELFRIDGES

Alex Cochrane Architects has created a space for shoppers at London department store Selfridges to find peace and quiet amid the bustling emporium. London studio Alex Cochrane Architects built the space on the lower ground floor of the Selfridges as their interpretation of a previous silence room created by the store’s founder when it first opened in 1909. Next to a major thoroughfare, adjacent to a cafe and flanked by two lifts, the space is not intended to be completely silent but rather encourage visitors to lower their voices and take time to unwind. /De Zeen Magazine

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FUTURE MARKETING COS X SNARKITECTURE

The COS brand was happy to be back in Milan at the Salone del Mobile, from 14 to 19 April, with a facility designed with Daniel Arsham and Alex Mustonen of Snarkitecture. Inspired by the lightness and brightness of the Spring-Summer 2015 COS, Arsham Mustonen and transformed the Spazio Erbe in a translucent cave where visitors could submerge. The installation consisted of thousands of white bands hanging from the ceiling to the floor. “The installation has transformed the space. Evoking relaxation and tranquility, it has created a comfortable place where visitors want to linger.” – Martin Andersson, Director of Man Collections. /TL mag

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FUTURE MARKETING VICTORIA BECKHAM’S ARTISTIC FLAIR

The avocado is so early 2015; the new green to garner fashion industry excitement is the courgette. So say Victoria Beckham and artist Eddie Peake, as they reveal a new squashily-entitled artwork at the designer’s flagship Dover Street store. Beckham offered the walls and windows of the store to the acclaimed British contemporary artist as a blank canvas for him to populate. The result, entitled Courgettes, is a striking word sculpture executed in vibrant blue acrylic paint. Peake’s intriguing sentence reads “Many courgettes, an equal number of pellicles and very many fingers attached to fraught bodies and minds in tumult”. /Telegraph

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