The Gen Z Formula: A antithesis by simi dhir

The Gen Z Formula: A antithesis An empirical study of the current retail landscape of India and the post-pandemic effects on Generation Z’s consumer behaviour.

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1.0 ABSTRACT........................ 2.0 ACKNOWLEDGMENT..... 3.0 INTRODUCTION.............. 4.0 LITERATURE REVIEW..... 4.1 Introduction................................

4.2 Retail & Fashion in India......... 4.2.1 Pre 2020...................................................... 4.2.2 Post 2020..................................................

4.3 Who is Gen Z and what are they like?........................................... 4.3.1 Social factors.......................................... 4.3.2 Economical factors............................ 4.3.3 Political factors..................................... 4.3.4 Behavioural factors........................... 4.3.5 Gen Zers as consumers..................

4.4 Retail in the digital age.......... 4.4.1 Technology & retailers..................... 4.4.2 Technology & branding.................. 4.4.3 Technology & consumers.............

4.5 New opportunities in

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35 4.6 Conclusion................................. 36 5.0 RESEARCH METHOD..... 38 5.1 Primary research....................... 38 5.2 Secondary research................ 39 5.3 Time schedule........................... 40 Fashion..............................................

6.0 PLAN OF ACTION........... 42 7.0 PRIMARY RESEARCH..... 46 7.1 Results........................................... 46 7.2 Insights......................................... 56 8.0 INTERVIEWS.................... 59 8.1 Sana Khan................................... 60 8.2 Hiral Arora................................... 64 8.3 Aakriti Agarwal......................... 68 8.4 Desika Prabakar....................... 72 8.5 Gunjan Pathak.......................... 76 9.0 FOCUS GROUP............... 80 9.1 Agenda......................................... 80 9.2 Scheduled time & date........... 80 9.3 People.......................................... 80 9.4 Insights........................................ 82 10.0 RESULTS......................... 86 10.1 Generation Z.............................. 86 10.2 Retail & Ecommerce in

India.................................................... 10.3 Retail experience & Future

91 11.0 DISCUSSIONS................. 92 12.0 THESIS OUTCOME........ 103 12.1 Outcome Ideation.................... 104 12.1.1 Idea #1......................................................... 104 12.1.2 Idea #2....................................................... 106 12.1.3 Idea #3...................................................... 108 12.2 Conceptualization................... 110 opportunities...................................

12.3 Duration breakdown.............. 12.4 Synopsis..................................... 12.5 Storyline..................................... 12.6 Animation Script..................... 12.7 Animation style guide........... 12.7.1 Lab exterior.............................................. 12.7.2 Lab details............................................... 12.7.3 Lighting: Enviornment...................... 12.7.4 Lighting: Focus..................................... 12.7.5 Textures..................................................... 12.7.6 Colours...................................................... 12.7.7 Formula Elements.............................. 12.7.8 Decorations............................................ 12.7.9 Animation style...................................

12.8 Animation process................. 12.9 Outcome: Formula breakdown........................................ 12.10 Outcome: Animation............

13.0 CONCLUSIONS.............. 14.0 FUTURE PROSPECTS.... 15.0 REFERENCES.................. 16.0 BIBLIOGRAPHY.............. 17.0 ANNEXURE..................... 17.1 Survey Questions.....................

17.2 Interview transcripts.............. 17.3 Focus group transcripts........

18.0 STYLE GUIDE.................. 7

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Abstract

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The coronavirus pandemic has become a wormhole into the future — pushing both consumers and retailers firmly across the threshold of the digital era.

What we may be seeing is a return to human connection, discovery and entertainment in retail, at a scale never before imaginable, We’re seeing technology being used, not to subjugate physical experiences but to supplement them, to enhance and inform them. And vice versa, smart

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brands are using their physical assets as stages to supply rich experiential content to online audiences.

By Doug Stephens, founder of Retail Prophet. (Retail Reborn Ep3: The Future of Digital Commerce by BoF)

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Ke yw or ds

ANTI-THESIS UPDATE RETAIL EXPERIENCE RETAIL PLANNING GEN Z FUTURE OF RETAIL TECHNOLOGY SUSTAINABILITY BRANDING ALTERNATIVE RETAIL MODES CONSUMER PSYCHOLOGY SOCIAL MEDIA & RETAIL METAVERSE OMNICHANNEL SEAMLESS EXPERIENCE 11

College Acknowledgement Certificate

A thesis submitted in a partial fulfillment of the requirements for the completion of the course in Fashion Communication and Styling, ISDI - School of Design and Innovation.

To the Department of Fashion Communication and Styling, May, 2022.

It is certified that the work contained in the thesis titled The GenZ Formula: A Antithesis by Simi Dhir has been carried out under our supervision and that this work has not been submitted elsewhere for or as a thesis project.

DISCLAIMER The thesis/ capstone project is the final year graduate study undertaken at the ISDI - School of Design & Innovation. No part of this document may be reproduced or disseminated in any form or by any means (electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise) without the prior written consent of the ISDI - School of Design and Innovation and the author.

Poonam Mishra

Program Director: Fashion Communication and Styling and Thesis Mentor ISDI - School of Design and Innovation

Acknowledgement

This project would not have been possible without the support of many people. Many thanks to my mentors Ms Poonam Mishra, Mr Mohan Neelakatan, and Ms Mahi Khare, who read my numerous revisions and helped me make progress through this thesis. Also thanks to the people who supported my research by being part of my Primary Research. Thanks to Atlas University for providing me with the help and support that was required for the completion of this project. And finally, thanks to my family, and numerous friends who endured this long process with me, always offering support and love. -Simi Dhir

Introduction

My thesis focuses on the future of retail and how Gen Z will affect it. It is an understanding of the pillars of traditional retail and discovering the new trends to bring a brand into the 21st century. Thus, it is titled, The GenZ Formula: A antithesis. We live in peculiar times when teenagers are becoming millionaires trading NFT’s all while the ecosystem collapses in front of our eyes as a result of decades of exploitation. Where does fashion fit into this image and how is the youth going to alter this? Will the future of fashion be synonymous with innovation or will we continue to live in the exploitative mechanism that is the capitalist economy? Is GenZ living up to the high ethical standards they set up online as internet warriors or are they just kids trying to live up the good years? My goal is to understand the retail ecosystem & generate insights that can effectively update merchandise planning to better appeal to the GenZ of India. I also hope to develop a new thought process to solve long-term merchandising problems and become future-ready. My research ends with a creative experience that encapsulates the central idea of the formula that can provide a perfect retail experience.

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Literature review

his section of my report aims at studying the literature on topics of Gen Z customer behaviours, the evolving role of technology in retail, disruption in retail, changing consumer expectations and the Millennials and Gen Z customer base in India. To start, I present some background on the retail industry in India. This is divided into two parts: pre-pandemic & post-pandemic. While the exact end of the pandemic cannot be measured, the “post-pandemic” section looks at anytime after 2021. The reason for this is, the hardest blow was felt during 2020 and after the initial lockdown, companies & retailers had time to adapt to the so-called “new normal.” In the next section, I try to understand GenZ as a part of the population. This is further divided into sub-sections to understand the various economic, social, political & behavioural facets of this complex group. The final few segments of my literature review look at the changes brought about in retail through technological advances. I also cover how GenZ interacts with these technologies and how their expectations have evolved. I close this literature review by looking at the new opportunities retailers have in fashion. I also look at the new responsibilities anyone in fashion must bear. My research is then closed with a conclusion that brings all these topics together. Finally, the information presented in the following sections has been taken from various sources that include research papers, books, online articles, video content from YouTube, podcasts and other such sources. 16

Retail & Fashion in India India’s vast population is a huge opportunity that many fashion brands have long ignored. Challenges like inequality, infrastructure, and market fragmentation have threatened the growth of fashion in India. However, this seems to have little impact on the economical prosperity of the retail market. With a steady increase in the overall retail spending of the Indian consumer, and specifically that of the fashion segment, India has seen a rapid increase in brands, both local and international, in recent years. When it comes to retail channels, India shows a very unique characteristic. Traditional retail (independent stores) continue to dominate the landscape with over 18 million such independent outlets spread across 5500 towns and about 600,000 villages. (Singhal, 2018) There are many positive drivers of the growth of India’s retail (and specifically its fashion) sector. They include strong economic growth, a high share of private consumption in the total GDP of the country, very merchandise consumption friendly demographics, and a dramatic increase in ownership of Fig. 1: Crop Person with Book in Sunlight

smartphones, leading to extremely low-cost data access to the internet. Several challenges remain, however, both for Indian as well as international retailers and brands. The $6 billion luxury goods market in India is finally shifting online with digital. Beauty is progressing faster than fashion: Euromonitor International reported 12.1% of super-premium beauty and personal care luxury items are sold via e-commerce distribution channels, versus only 5.5 per cent for ready-to-wear designer apparel and footwear. In the fragmented e-commerce market, progress has been slow, according to Ketki Paranjpe, the partner at L Catterton Asia. “Discretionary high-ticket spending has been depressed due to external macroeconomic shocks — demonetisation, GST [Goods and Services Tax] and the Covid-19 virus. Liquidity got squeezed out of the value chain [affecting] retailers, distributors, importers, which impacted their ability to do business, limiting inventory carrying capacity,” she says. “Slow growth is hardly surprising.” (Kamath, 2021)

Pre-2020 Textile Industry is one of the biggest contributors to the country’s exports with around 11.4% share in India’s total export earnings for the fiscal period ended 2018-19 valuing to almost USD 37.5 billion (INR 2,596 billion) and growing at a CAGR of seven since 2004-05. The COVID-19 global pandemic has effects on all 7.8 billion folks Fig 2: White Ceramic Sculpture with Black Face Mask

in similar and unique ways. From the material to the spiritual, the supply chain to the ideological basis of its existence every aspect of the industry is being wrung bent on dry because of what’s being called ‘fashion’s Darwinian shakeout’. The previous number of months has seen fashion houses, retailers, influencers and fashion magazines introspect and pivot, in expected and surprising ways. (Kumar & Kumar, 2021) In recent years, one of the biggest surprises (for Indian retailers and Indian fashion brands) has been the spectacular success of H&M and Zara in particular. Both these retail brands have seen strong acceptance from Indian consumers across all the geographies that they are currently operating in, with their growth apparently limited only by their ability to find suitable retail locations across India and therefore their ability to increase their physical footprint in India. H&M is now trying to address this challenge by launching their own online shopping portal which should help them access many more potential customers across India. In another difference from major global markets, the men’s share of the fashion market is substantially higher than that of women. Though the gap is reducing, and by 2022, both men’s and women’s share of the total fashion market is likely to be 39% each. Keeping in mind India’s demographics wherein almost 28% of the population is below 15 years of age (325 – 350 million), it is no surprise that kids account for nearly 20% of the total fashion market in 2017 and their share was predicted actually increase marginally to 22% by 2022. (Singhal, 2018). Even though 2020 started very rocky, fashion retailers were able to bounce back and thrive against all odds. The Indian fashion industry responded in thoughtful and interesting ways. The Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI), as an example, was amongst the first to announce a COVID-19 Support Fund for tiny businesses and young designers in need. 19

The Government of India had also announced a special economic package viz. Aatma Nirbhar Bharat Abhiyaan for boosting the economy of the country and making India self-reliant. Relief and credit support measures had been announced for various sectors. The weavers & artisans can avail benefits of these relief and credit support measures to revive their businesses which had suffered due to lockdown necessitated by the Covid-19 pandemic.

Post-2020 According to the Retailers Association of India (RAI), the retail industry achieved 93% of pre-COVID sales in February 2021; consumer durables and quick service restaurants (QSR) increased by 15% and 18% respectively. After an unprecedented decline of 19% in the JanuaryMarch 2020 quarter, the FMCG industry displayed signs of recovery in the July-September 2020 quarter with a y-o-y growth of 1.6%. The growth witnessed in the fast-moving consumer goods (FMCG) sector was also a reflection of positivity recorded in the overall macroeconomic scenario amid the opening of the economy and easing of lockdown restrictions. E-Retail has been a boon during the pandemic and according to a report by Bain & Company in association with Flipkart ‘How India Shops Online 2021’ the e-retail market is expected to grow to US$ 120-140 billion by FY26, increasing at approximately 25-30% p.a. over the next 5 years. India has the third-highest number of e-retail shoppers (only behind China, the US). The new-age logistics players are expected to deliver 2.5 billion Directto-Consumer (D2C) shipments by 2030. Online used car transaction penetration is expected to grow by 9x in the next 10 years. During the festival period in 2020, Amazon, Flipkart and various vertical players sold goods worth US$ 9 billion despite the pandemic onslaught. (IBEF, 2021) As per McKinsey & Co.’s FashionScope report, India’s 20

apparel market is expected to be valued at $59.3 billion in 2022 and the Indian fashion industry will emerge to be the sixth-largest market in the world. Retail technologies are still far from maturity, despite increased retail tech spending. The next step in the evolution of retail tech will focus less on installing new equipment and implementing new processes and more on changing consumer behaviour to adopt and utilize many of these technologies. Top players (according to Inventiva) as of January 2022 include Aditya Birla Fashion & Retail Ltd, Avenue Supermarts Ltd, Future Lifestyle Fashions Ltd. and Reliance Retail Ltd. E-commerce is expanding steadily in the country. Customers have the ever-increasing choice of products at the lowest rates. E-commerce is probably creating the biggest revolution in the retail industry, and this trend is likely to continue in the years to come. Retailers should leverage digital retail channels (e-commerce), which would enable them to spend less money on real estate while reaching out to more customers in tier II and tier III cities. Online retail market in India is projected to reach US$ 350 billion by 2030 from an estimated US$ 55 billion in 2021, due to rising online shoppers in the country. In 2020, the most common payment methods online were digital wallets (40%), followed by credit cards (15%) and debit cards (15%). Online penetration of retail is expected to reach 10.7% by 2024 versus 4.7% in 2019. (IBEF, 2021)

Who is Gen Z and what are they like? Generation Z (aka Gen Z, iGen, or centennials), refers to the generation that was born between 1997-2012, following millennials. This generation has been raised on the internet and social media, with some of the oldest finishing colleges by 2020 and entering the workforce. 21

Insider Intelligence has been tracking Gen Z’s characteristics, traits, values, and trends to develop indepth statistics, facts, and marketing strategies targeting what will soon become the largest cohort of consumers. Generation Z, is the youngest, most ethnically diverse, and largest generation in American history, comprising 27% of the US population. Pew Research recently defined Gen Z as anyone born after 1997. Gen Z grew up with technology, the internet, and social media, which sometimes causes them to be stereotyped as techaddicted, anti-social, or “social justice warriors.” (Meola, 2021. Insider Intelligence)

Social factors All of Gen Z show vertical defiance and horizontal conformity. This means that they all show a desire to reject parental and societal values of appearance, gender expression, racism and caste-based discrimination. There is an inclination to define themselves as more open-minded and norm-divergent than the previous generation. Interestingly, this behaviour of being defiant is displayed across this generation, inherently making it normative. Gen Z uses this progressiveness to signal wokeness, which for them has become the new social currency. Gen Z is vying to be accepted by their peers, because of two predominant reasons. Firstly, they are still in the process of developing their self-identities. Hence, they use each other as their reference points to understand the acceptability of their behaviours. Secondly, it is a means for them to develop connections and combat the deep isolation they experience. The pandemic has severely hindered Gen Z’s ability to interact with each other in person or form new connections. As a result, many Gen Z members report experiencing sadness, stress, anxiety and depression. According to an American study, Gen Z is the most depressed generation, and this is also true for 22

Gen Z in India. To cope, Gen Z uses their representations online to find their clan and a sense of belonging. (Badiani and Krishna, 2021)

Economical factors Deloitte’s 8th annual Millennial Survey showed that Indian millennials and Gen Z are among the most optimistic. About 59% of millennials and 57% of Gen Z in India expect the country’s economic outlook to improve in the next 12 months. “The millennial and post-millennial generations in fastdeveloping countries like India have seen progress and opportunities that previous generations could only imagine, leading to an overall optimism,” Deloitte India Chief Talent Officer S V Nathan said. (Business Standard, 2019) The generation also aspires to make a positive impact in the community and society at large (57% of millennials and 77% of Gen Z). They said climate change and corruption are grave concerns, and (in comparison to their global counterparts) are convinced that businesses are best able to solve the world’s most pressing challenges.

Fig 3: Hand Capturing Photo of Couple with Smartphone

“Contrary to popular belief, Gen Z actually puts more faith in capitalism than millennials do,” said Elliot Padfield, a senior partner at Padfield Media, a Gen Z-focused ad agency. From advertising and investing to self-branding and issueconscious spending, Gen Z’s fingerprints are all over the economy of the only century they’ve ever really known. “The economic pressures that Gen Z is putting on companies can be seen in the changes and choices of industry titans,” said Tara Milburn, a branding expert and the founder of Ethical Swag. “Leaders in the tech space — Apple, Dell, Amazon, Google — have pledged to reduce their carbon footprint. Amazon launched a $2 billion climate pledge this year, and Apple committed to going 100% carbon neutral by 2030. Patagonia, Target, and other retail giants are connecting with their consumers through initiatives that target the environment.” “By far, the creative sector is the biggest recipient of Gen Z’s energy,” said Alina Clark, co-founder and marketing director of L.A.-based software development firm CocoDoc. “There is a creative bug among the Gen Zs, and it’s pushing the economy into a whole new different place. That’s why we have a whole new trunk of career options revolving around being creative and tech-savvy, something that we didn’t have twenty years back.” She specifically mentioned novel new ideas like NFTs and even careers that are now fairly standard, like freelance content creation. “For Gen Z, making money is not really about having a job, or starting a brick-and-mortar business,” Clark said. “It’s more about expression and art. This is why influencers, be they on TikTok or Instagram, are quickly becoming more revered than your conventional movie or pop stars.” (Lisa, 2021)

Political factors Gen Z’s motives and behaviours are not meant to solely 24

pleasure the individual, but also pay deference to the context that surrounds them: navigating relationships with parents, society and the expectations set for them. This is extremely evident in the career choices that most of them make. Most Gen Z still chooses traditional professional fields such as engineering, medicine or business via the means of an MBA degree. These fields are of high value not only because of the fact that they are low-risk, but also they bring great reputation boosts to the person and their family for having raised a capable and successful child. Instead, these Gen Z show self-determinism akin to other Gen Zs through their hobbies and interests, which do not stick to traditional bounds but are much more about experimentation with self. Sexual and gender expression becomes another realm that is bounded by cultural norms for Gen Z in secondand third-tier cities of India. The tug between matching the western global idea of liberalisation and dealing with the current rigid gender norms of the country has certainly allowed for a more progressive gender expression, but certainly not a gender-fluid expression. Both men and women seem to display expressions that are closer to their conventional gender expressions. Through social media scans, women are more likely to post photos that focus on their appearance and beauty. Whereas men are more likely to post pictures that boost their status and suggest their resourcefulness. For example, men post more pictures of their travel, their bikes or the alcohol they consume. Moreover, women are still reluctant to talk about politics, since it has always been a male-dominated area. Men, on the other hand, are still right-leaning centrists who are reluctant to let up on their privilege. Yet, the shift in gender expression is visible. Women’s selfexpression now is no longer just driven by the male gaze; rather it is driven to bolster self-confidence and appeal for a broader audience than just men. 25

This is evident in their experimentation with makeup and outfits that is not restricted to simply bolstering their femininity. Women have also begun to occupy more space in the conversation for nation-development by sharing resources to help rather than just opinions on political matters. Men also have become more liberal in their expression. While they are slower to change they are not limited by the rigid norms of masculinity. They no longer are vying for a rugged exterior and also show an equal desire for smooth and soft skin. (Badiani and Krishna, 2021)

Behavioural factors Today Gen Z are shrouded with uncertainty. The internet, capitalism and new technology have created a choicecrisis for youth. They have so many options to choose from when it comes to deciding what field to select for their education and career. The same applies to behavioural permutations they have exposure to when it comes to appearance, gender and sexual expression. This confusion has obviously been exacerbated by the pandemic. The manner in which Gen Z in second- and third-tier cities deal with this crisis is what sets them apart from other Gen Z members. Unlike Gen Z in the west whose idea of the self is highly liberated and reliant on personal thought and one’s agency, Gen Z in second- and third-tier cities of India have still held onto Indian cultural values and norms of their context to guide them in personhood creation. These values serve as anchors that provide wellstructured boundaries for their self-expression in a time of heightened confusion. Hence, their motives and behaviours are not meant to solely pleasure the individual, but also pay deference to the context that surrounds them: navigating relationships with parents, society and the expectations set for them. (Badiani and Krishna, 2021)

Gen Zers as consumers Gen Zers have grown up in the era of “fake news.” They are quick to spot misdirection and do not respond to hype. Instead, they are looking for brands to be transparent and authentic. Distinctive and disruptive, these young people wield influence far beyond their wealth and experience. And they have redefined loyalty as we traditionally know it. (IBM and National Retail Federation 2017, 3) On the other hand, Gen Z shoppers are unpredictable and always looking for the most value. The interaction between brands and the impact of touchpoints with younger generations have not yet found much ground in the literature. The journey of the customer in these generations may have a different objective of creating future loyalty and not immediate purchase (Kamila & Květa, 2017). Gen Z shoppers are full of surprises. On the one hand, they want what their parents want—seamless delivery of retail essentials, such as value, choice, quality, convenience and availability. On the other hand, as digital natives, they have their own expectations for how they want those essentials delivered. Technology is important to them, but only if it adds value and enhances their shopping experience. And they expect to be able to make that experience uniquely their own. (Glass, Wong, and Cheung 2018, 3) An important caveat is that Gen Zers have little patience for technology that is unresponsive or prone to errors. Often balancing the use of multiple devices at once, they quickly become frustrated if the technology lags or is difficult to use. In fact, 62% said they will not use apps that are slow to load. And 60% said they won’t use apps, websites or facilities that are hard to navigate. Companies that don’t meet Gen Zers’ performance expectations risk falling behind and leaving the way open for the competition. Rather than buying into fancy features and gadgetry, Gen 27

Zers prefer technology that empowers them and adds direct value. Brands need to carefully consider this when investing in existing and new technology that provides the value and convenience Gen Zers desire. Gen Zers often use their mobile phones to be smart and knowledgeable shoppers: 47% of Gen Zers surveyed said they use their smartphones when shopping in a store and 35% use phones to make payments. They use their phones to research products and services, compare prices and find discounts prior to making purchases. (Glass, Wong, and Cheung 2018, 8) To build a successful relationship with Gen Zers, brands need to gain their trust by being transparent and allowing them to feel in control. In our study, 60% of Gen Zers said it is important for brands to value their opinions. Further, 55% want to have control over what information to share, and 54% want to have control over how brands contact them. Gen Zers share opinions in different ways, and when they do provide feedback, they are, on average, twice as likely to share positive feedback as to complain. However, brands have failed to make the necessary or proper engagements. (IBM and National Retail Federation 2017, 8) As Gen Zers’ willingness to share personal data increases, brands can use that data to create more authentic, personalized shopping experiences: 61% of Gen Z respondents said they would feel comfortable sharing more information if they knew their data was protected and stored securely. Gaining Gen Zers’ trust is essential. (Glass, Wong, and Cheung 2018, 11) To truly appeal to GenZ, the brand’s must adapt to their taste and rise to their ethical standards. These strategies can include: (Badiani and Krishna, 2021) A. Omnichannel approach B. Promote individual Self-Expression C. Create a sense of belonging D. Engaging in ethical consumption 28

Fig 4: White Building

Retail in the digital age Studies have shown that execution in retailing has become more important than other aspects of retail business (e.g., merchandising) Salmon (1989), this has translated into the digital world as well. Mobile Commerce comes as an extension of eCommerce that offers advantages like services based on location and accessibility creating the possibility of cross-device purchase (Chong, 2013; Marinkovic & Kalinic, 2017; Wei et al, 2009). This inherent heterogeneity of the Indian market requires the apparel retailer to micro-segment the market so that the peculiarities and uniqueness in consumer buying patterns of each micro-segment could be understood and product offerings could be tailored to the specific needs of the micro-segments. (Nagpal & Sinha, 2017)

Technology & retailers Anticipating the needs of the consumer is a risky business. This becomes especially apparent in cases of sudden changes brought by unforeseen circumstances like the Covid outbreak. For retailers, getting rid of seasonal stock is as important as making sales. The way they do it is usually by markdowns and handsome incentives. Execution

in retailing has become more important than other aspects of retail business (e.g., merchandising). Salmon (1989) Moving around inventory is one solution brands try in case regional sales are affected. Those that can lean on crossseasonal products are the most protected, as less trenddriven inventory is more likely to be in demand once the worst of the crisis is over. Seasonality still dominates many ready-to-wear brands that build their buzz through subsequent collections, while work on SS21 products will have already begun for many. Building up evergreen products is not an easy task, but those that took the time to do so have provided themselves with an additional buffer in a time of crisis. (Arnett, 2020) Technological trends in retail are especially promising as they increase efficiency and decrease the workload on the supply chain. According to Jim Dion, a Chicago-based retail technology consultant, high tech innovations help retailers stay competitive in four key categories: convenience, price, size and speed. In stores and on the sales floor, high tech tools help balance inventory assortments, manage to order and track pricing. Customer tracking tools increase customer satisfaction and promote loyalty by enhancing shoppers’ in-store experience. On the executive level, technology improves planning and decision making. Various data-mining software help make stocking, pricing and marketing decisions, as well as improve product design and development. (Lipow, 2021) Virtual and augmented reality offer retailers several ways to enhance the customer experience. From browsing products to virtually “trying them on,” extended reality is already in use by many retailers today. Retail organizations have never had an issue collecting lots of data, but analyzing it and using the data to solve problems or create new solutions has been a struggle. 30

Predictive analytics changes that. Now retailers can be proactive about the future by analyzing consumer behaviour and trends from the past. When retailers successfully analyze data, they are able to understand important information about consumer purchasing behaviour, personalize the shopping experience, address a consumer’s needs based on where they are in the customer journey, improve efficiencies and reduce costs of supply chains and more. (Marr, 2019) Retailers who can meet customers “in the moment” have a powerful advantage. Thanks to direct digital access to consumers and powerful analytics capabilities, businesses can capture moments and help customers during their moment of need and even anticipate what a customer might need before they even know it. Another tech trend that’s changing shopping is robotic store assistants. Robots like Pepper can help shoppers find the merchandise they are looking for and answer questions. They can even email special offers or coupons.

Technology and branding Coming to the relationship between technology and brands has also been widely studied. Literature on this subject proves that as much as technology is exciting, consumers only abide if it adds value to the experience and makes their process easier. There are a number of benefits that a retailer enjoys by use of such technologies like the reduction in cost, increase in the level of satisfaction of consumers, introductions of flexible jobs and ultimately in the areas of market share and improving the competitive advantages of the firms (Gil et al., 2014). Marketing and technological innovation affects the image of the store, satisfaction, consumer value and also WOM activities. Further, technologies also improve customer satisfaction with the store. (Khaled et al. 2019, 9). Adam Levene, founder of digital customer service platform 31

Hero puts it perfectly, “You would never leave your retail store unattended, why take that risk with your eCommerce platform?” Beyond conversions, a strong digital strategy can serve as a way to get customers into a store and foster further engagement. Find ways to make online shopping another way to connect with consumer and make it easier for them to trust you. For Neha Singh, founder of augmented and virtual reality software platform Obsess, a lack of innovation to the front-end experience is an obvious drawback. “...If you want to create something that’s different for a brand or a retailer, they have to put in a lot of their own engineering resources to build something very custom.” For smaller, independent merchants, off-the-shelf e-commerce solutions through platform technology are democratising the playing field in a way that was impossible 15 years ago and, Shopify President Harley Finkelstein believes, responding to emerging consumer preferences. “Consumers are now choosing to buy direct from the brands themselves, for the price, experience, quality, but also because, as consumers actually believe that in order for us to have a well-rounded, interesting society and culture, we need these small businesses to exist,” says Finkelstein. “What we may be seeing is a return to human connection, discovery and entertainment in retail, at a scale never before imaginable,” explains Stephens. “We’re seeing technology being used, not to subjugate physical experiences but to supplement them, to enhance and inform them. And vice versa, smart brands are using their physical assets as stages to supply rich experiential content to online audiences.” (BoF, Retail Reborn. Ep. 3)

Technology & consumers Millennials and GenZ will contribute to 130% of market 32

growth between now & 2025. Consumers can not be generalised, retailers must take time to collect data from the consumers. Brands that fall short are not only going to lose a customer, they lose a community. Customer interaction with brands occurs in physical locations/stores as well as online stores, social networks, mobile applications (Guo, 2013). Although, the store environment is the best place to observe consumer behaviour. E-commerce is a supporting platform to the physical store. However, both should be equipped to give a complete experience. Data can be collected at the time of purchase by interacting with the consumers. Not just in terms of convenience, eCommerce also serves consumers with a sense of personalization and omnichannel experience. It is through the continuous interaction of the customer with the brand in different touchpoints that the perception of value emerges and forms the customer experience (Clatworthy, 2012). Brand Loyalty - The concept of Brand Loyalty is based on the intent of repeat purchase and continuous use of a brand or on the positive feelings and willingness to recommend a product (Dick & Basu, 1994). However, brand loyalty has become a distant concept with the emergence of social media. On the one hand, studies prove brand loyalty still exists: One customer can be loyal to more than one brand of the same product (Srinivasan et al, 2002). In this sense, loyalty can be undivided, divided, unstable or non-existent (Brown, 1953) The concept of touchpoints in marketing and management literature can be understood as the moments of direct or indirect contact between the customer and the brand, where interaction may occur (Baxendale et al, 2015). The touchpoints or interactions are moments that happen along the customer’s journey and may include anything that provides some sort of information with the possibility of creating positive or negative impacts (Aichner & 33

Gruber, 2017). It is through the continuous interaction of the customer with the brand in different touchpoints that the perception of value emerges and forms the customer experience (Clatworthy, 2012). Customers expect consistent integration and quality from the brand at all times and in every touchpoint they encounter during their journey (Huré et al., 2017). Building a lasting relationship with customers is essential to success. To do so, retailers should have store associates focus on building trust with kindness and authenticity. “If you pressure your sales team to hit certain numbers and it’s not authentic and it’s not organic, you might have a good day, but that hurts the long-term potential of your business,” says Elyse Walker, boutique and concept store owner. Brand associations are not only the ability of customers to recall them, but associations with positive or negative meanings that constitute the brand’s meaning (Abdolvand & Kia, 2016) Generation Z is also known as Gen I (Internet) or Gen M (Multitasking) for its Internet connection and ability to perform multiple tasks simultaneously (Greydanus & Greydanus, 2012). Gen Z currently corresponds to individuals still below the age of majority who will soon begin to enter the labor market and become selfemployed customers. Mobile phones have become an indispensable part of modern life, whether for the purpose of communicating with others, for playful activities such as listening to music or for the purpose of entertainment and shopping (Lee et al, 2014; Ozkan & Solmaz, 2015; Zhitomirsky-Geffet & Blau, 2016). It is theorized that media planning should also move to these platforms to be able to connect with Gen Z, since they spend so much more time there and are more receptive to advertisements seen in mobile (Southgate, 2017). 34

The differentiating features of Gen Z and the increasingly digital world with the brands omnichannel integration makes it imperative to understand this new customer of the future. (Machado Estácio Marques, n.d., 13) Technology is important to Gen Z, but only if it adds value and enhances their shopping experience. And they expect to be able to make that experience uniquely their own. (Glass, Wong, and Cheung 2018, 3). Interestingly, Fig 5: Person the technology savviness and online Holding White Tote presence of Gen Z does not Bag always translate into online shopping behavior. They regularly visit brands websites and online shops on their mobile devices, looking for new products or doing research on future purchases but refrain from making the purchase online, preferring to buy in physical stores. The new path to purchase is paved with research, Gen Z makes sure the product they’re getting is the best for the price they pay. These customers look for price and product characteristics comparisons and wouldn’t go for the first possibility but will not stray too far from the brands they know and show bias in purchasing consideration.

New opportunities in Fashion The future of fashion has a new meaning now, with the advancement of artificial intelligence and NFTs. Even before the COVID pandemic, the world was getting closer to a point of physical and digital convergence. The future of fashion will be synonymous with innovation. Leading fashion innovators are trying to solve problems like waste management, deadstock fabrics, 35

animal cruelty, overconsumption, etc that plague the industry. Other leaders are also consciously trying to promote sustainability, inclusion, repurposing, etc. Other exciting ventures include immersive experiences for their audience that utilize modern technology like metaverse, NFT’s, virtual clothing, etc. These future ventures lead me to believe that the future of fashion will move increasingly towards captivating the audience and promoting a personalised shopping experience.

Conclusion At the end of the day, Gen Z is a market with lots of potential and with the amount of information at their disposal brands can no longer rely on old tactics and branding. Gen Zers are digitally empowered, always-on, and they expect brands to be ready to interact with them 24/7 on their choices of channels and devices. Rather than buying into fancy features and gadgetry, Gen Zers prefer technology that empowers them and adds direct value. Brands need to carefully consider this when investing in existing and new technology that provides the value and convenience Gen Zers desire. An important caveat is that Gen Zers have little patience for technology that is unresponsive or prone to errors. Often balancing the use of multiple devices at once, they quickly become frustrated if the technology lags or is difficult to use. Companies that don’t meet Gen Zers’ performance expectations risk falling behind and leaving the way open for the competition. (Glass, Wong, and Cheung 2018, 9) As Gen Zers’ willingness to share personal data increases, brands can use that data to create more authentic, personalized shopping experiences. Gen Zers feel comfortable sharing more information if they knew their data was protected and stored securely. Gaining Gen Zers’ trust is essential. (Glass, Wong, and Cheung 2018, 11) They want to be heard and valued as individuals. They 36

are keenly aware of the power of words via social media and are fiercely protective of their reputations in the digital world. In communicating with them, brands should understand this generation expects two-way engagement. They want brands to be transparent in intent—real, not fake. (IBM and National Retail Federation 2017, 9).

Important note:

Although I have some great secondary data to base my research on, there is a gap when it comes to studying the effects of the pandemic on consumer behaviours and the way it will shape the future. This should be noted going further as my research tries to overcome this gap as well as fill it in the context of the Indian apparel market.

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Research Methodology

Primary research mart Survey defines primary research as data that is obtained first-hand. This means that the researcher conducts the research themselves or commissions the data to be collected on their behalf. Primary research means going directly to the source, rather than relying on pre-existing data samples. This type of research is particularly relevant where the data collected needs to be specific to the context. For example, a company may perform primary market research to discover customer perceptions of its brand. This could not be collected from any existing data source as it is unique to the business. In my research, I relied on two forms of primary data collection. This process spanned over five to six weeks of work. One is a quantitative survey of a large number of respondents to understand consumer behaviour. The second is qualitative interviews that aim at getting the opinions and perspectives of experts and industry professionals. Smart Survey defines a survey as a convenient and costeffective solution where a response is required from a larger population. Questions are pre-written, offering the respondent little flexibility if their answer doesn’t fit. Interviews are defined as a one-to-one or small group question and answer session, which can be conducted 38

over the phone or in a face-to-face environment. Interviews are most useful where a large amount of information needs to be collected from a small sample of subjects. Interviews are often used to obtain information from an expert about a specialist topic. This type of research is highly personal, so follow-on questions can be asked to ensure clarity. Question Pro defines a focus group as a small group of carefully selected participants who contribute to open discussions for research. The hosting organization carefully selects participants for the study to represent the larger population they’re attempting to target. The group might look at new products, feature updates, or other topics of interest to generalize the entire population’s reaction. Focus group research includes a moderator. Their job is to ensure legitimate results and reduce bias in the discussions. In 1991, marketing and psychological expert Ernest Dichter coined the name “Focus Group”. The term described meetings held with a limited group of participants with the objective of discussion.

Secondary research Qualtrics defines secondary research as a research method (also known as desk research) that involves compiling existing data sourced from a variety of channels. This includes internal sources (e.g.in-house research) or, more commonly, external sources (such as government statistics, organisational bodies, and the internet). The information is usually free — or available at a limited access cost — and gathered using surveys, telephone interviews, observation, face-to-face interviews, and more. When using secondary research, researchers collect, verify, analyse and incorporate it to help them confirm 39

research goals for the research period. As well as the above, it can be used to review previous research into an area of interest. Researchers can look for patterns across data spanning several years and identify trends — or use it to verify early hypothesis statements and establish whether it’s worth continuing research into a prospective area. My secondary research process was very tedious and was conducted over five weeks. This included blogs & articles, research papers, audio-visual research and other such sources.

Time schedule The research process started during the last week of July 2021. The research is scheduled to end approximately March 2022. The secondary research phase ended at about mid-September, it spanned over five weeks of work. After which I dived into primary research, which too spanned over five to six weeks of work. The Thesis writing phase was scheduled to start in January 2022 and is expected to last for 3 months. With that said, the official end of this research is scheduled for March-end and an academic review is scheduled between April and August. The documentation of the thesis book started in late November and is scheduled to end after 4-5 months in late March. April is scheduled for rigorous reviews and final touches after which we will be ready to present our final thesis resolution to a jury.

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Fig 6: Brass-Colored Chandelier

n o i t c a f o n Pla A step by step guide of the research process.

Initial research

Analyze the assignment Understand what the thesis writing is all about and analyze the topics that are important to you.

2. Explore Finalize one topic that is most important to you.

Explore your topic through various articles on the internet and try to find a unique angle to study. Answer 4 essential questions

360 understanding

Deep dive into your thesis topic with key insights from secondary research.

5. Consolidate into a book title Creatively create a book title that is reflective of your thesis idea.

Draft questions Brainstorm and list questions for the primary research.

Take off Pilot survey your quantitative research questions and rectify any errors.

9. Literature review By the method of trial and error, finalize the most elaborate version of your literature review.

Pen down learnings

11.

Analyze all primary research answers and highlight any important insights you observe.

Draft research proposal

10.

Interviews and questionnaires Work on generating insights via primary research. Try to get as many different views as possible.

At the end of the 1st semester of the thesis, create a thesis proposal.

Document the journey

15.

Bring your thesis a complete circle with your thesis book that includes all your work.

13.

Draw conclusions Summarize all your research and bring it all together through a solution statement.

14. Create outcome Work on creating your creative outcome that encapsulates your central thesis idea.

12.

Start working on the outcome Brainstorm at least 3 creative outcome ideas. Create mockups and finalize one final resolution idea.

Primary Research Results & Analysis

Fig 7. Molecule model

Survey Name: Retail consumer behaviours & the future of fashion retail in India Number of respondents: 60 Goal: To understand consumer behaviour and expectations. The questions are focused on the shopping experience and their perceived ideas for the future of retail. Dates of accepted responses: October 28, 2021, to January 25, 2022

Biases: • Diwali seasonal sales may not be representative of year-round consumer behaviour. • No measure for the diverse consumer base of India. • Irregular Covid restrictions across India might affect the opinions of respondents. • The irregular economic status of GenZ across India. Fig 8: Black Blouse on Hanger in Dressing Room in Shop

#1 • 68.3% of the respondents are University students. • 8.3% of the respondents are in high school. • 16.7% of respondents are young professionals with less than two years of working experience. • 5% of respondents are experienced professionals with more than two years of working experience. • 1.7% of respondents are unemployed.

68.3%

8.3% 16.7% 5% 1.7% Fig for Q. #1

#2 • 78.3% of the respondents are in the age group of 20-25. • 21.7% of respondents are in the age group of 16-19. #3 When asked what their favourite brands were, the most common responses were: • Zara • H&M • ONLY • NIKE Fig for Q. #2

#4 • 40% of respondents said they only shop online when they have to. • 41.7% of respondents said they shop online once every few weeks. • 6.7% of respondents said they shop online once every week and 11.7% of respondents said they only shop online once or twice a year.

#5 • 55% of respondents said they only go offline shopping when they have to. • 33.3% said they go offline shopping once every few weeks. • 1.7% of respondents said they shop online once every week and 10% said they only go offline shopping once or twice a year.

Fig. for Q #4

Fig. for Q #5

#6 • When asked when was the last time they went shopping, 50% of respondents said this past week. • 8.3% said over 6 months ago & the rest 41.7% said this past month.

Fig for Q. #6

#7 48.3% of these latest purchases were made online, and the rest 51.7% were made offline. Fig for Q. #7

#8 When asked what influenced their buying choices, these were the responses:

Fig for Q. #8

#9 When asked what triggered their last purchase, 30.4% of the respondents said boredom, 44.6% said an upcoming event and 17.9% said an urgent requirement. • The rest under the Other option picked the following: • Desire: 1.8% • Festival: 1.8% • Nothing: 1.8% • Winter: 1.8% #10 When asked how their last shopping experience was, the respondents rated (From 1 to 10, 1 being the worst) as the following:

Fig for Q. #10

#11 • 58.3% of the respondents say that the pandemic has changed their shopping behaviour and 15% deny this phenomenon. • 18.3% said maybe and 8.3% of the respondents said they haven’t noticed a change in their shopping behaviour. 50

#12 However, 51.9% believe these changes will sustain once all is back to normal. 21.2% of respondents say these habits will not sustain and 26.9% are unsure.

51.9%

#13 • When asked what is the most they had spent on clothes in one month 38.3% of respondents selected an amount between 500-5000 INR. • 36.7% selected an amount between 6,000-15,000INR. 18.3% selected an amount between 15,000-40,000 INR. • And the rest 6.7% selected an amount over 50,000 INR.

26.9%

21.1% Fig for Q. #12

#14 95% of the respondents believe that there is a difference between an in-store shopping experience and an online shopping experience. 3.3% of respondents responded maybe and 1.7% said doesn’t matter. 38.3% 18.3% 36.7% 6.7% Fig for Q. #13

#15 • When asked which one did they prefer, 33.3% of respondents said hybrid experience, 45% said offline and 18.3% said online. • The rest 3.4% said that this depended on what they were buying.

45%

33.3% 18.3% 3.4% Fig for Q. #15

Fig for Q. #16

38.3%

36.7%

23.3% 1.7%

#16 When asked if their preference was influenced by their personality type, 38.3% of people said they were not sure. 36.7% responded yes and 23.3% responded no. 1.7% of the respondents also said that they were unaware of this phenomenon. #17 • When asked if the consumers of India were ready for technologically forward retail 46.7% responded not sure, 38.3% responded agree and 11.7% responded very strongly agree. • The rest 3.3% said disagree.

Fig for Q. #17

#18 When asked how important sales associates were in a shopping experience on a scale of 1 to 5, 1 being the least, the responses were as follows:

Fig for Q. #18

#19 56.7% of respondents prefer new alternative retail methods (thrifting, rental, etc) to traditional retail whereas the rest of 31.3% don’t know. Only 6.7% do not prefer and 5% prefer not to say anything at this moment.

Fig for Q. #20

#20 • 21.7% think rental has potential, 40% think bespoke or customizable clothes have potential and 45% think thrifting has potential. • 45% of the respondents also believe in upcycling their old clothes.

#21 Lastly, when asked for any closing remarks on GenZ shopping behaviour, this is what respondents had to say: Technologically driven and more hyperfocused and customercentric. GenZ consumers will hop on any techforward trend in fashion but only if they see value in it for them and for their environment. They see sustainability not just as a concept focused on the natural environment but also in relation to social, mental and emotional sustainability. If any tech trend in fashion is able to achieve that, they can easily convince the entire generation.

I think shopping online is likely to become a preferred mode for most in the very near future. Thrifting, rentals and upcycled will probably change the game. Thrifting and second hands should be made more accessible to the local people and other generations too, and not just gen Z, or not just the middle class but all the class groups. That way future retail can be made a bit sustainable.

I feel like the future of retail might keep on changing as the alternatives keep coming up and people become more and more aware of their consumption.

I think GenZ is super non-homogeneous. We have both extremes and have to navigate through conscious communication and action. Shop with an open mind and be cautious and smart enough to buy. 54

You should also look into the concept of shopping in the metaverse, cause that is the future of everything from shopping clothes to shopping virtual real estate.

GenZ has more time on their hands and thus they crave a unique experience they can brag on the internet about.

Sustainability should be our main focus when buying something. Thrifting! Its trendy but not many stores are there in India. People should know how to reuse old clothes rather always purchasing new ones.

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Insights

he major findings of this survey are that majority of people prefer to shop based on their needs. This can usually mean a hybrid mode of shopping where they research for their needs and then go to the store to purchase the same.

However, respondents shop online more often than offline. This may or may not be influenced by the current state of the pandemic. But this finding was quickly contradicted when asked how their most recent purchase was made, to which most people answered offline. My guess is this was influenced by the long lockdown that created digital exhaustion among the people. I also found that the majority of the shopped from fast fashion brands and bridge brands. The most common answers to favourite brands were Zara, H&M and ONLY. This signifies a need for affordable clothes while staying trendy. While offline shopping has become more popular recently, this may still change based on regional Covid protocols. This means brands need to stay sharp and work hard on their digital strategy. Quality, price, aesthetics and unique design seem to be the most important factor affecting buying decisions. This leaves room for change in the preference of brands as fast fashion brands aren’t particularly known for their supreme quality. Brands need to recognize this and target their audience accordingly. When speaking of sustainability, it should be noted that more and more people are buying new clothes only when they need them. This is a promising step towards fixing the 56

trend cycle. However, 30% of the respondents still noted that the last time they shopped was out of boredom. This brings me to my next point, the pandemic has changed the way the majority of people shop and there is at least a 50% chance this change will be continued after the pandemic is over. Surprisingly, sales associates play a crucial role in the shopping experience of the people and this poses a problem for online operations. This may also be a reason why people prefer to shop offline. In theory, brands can incorporate easier communication with sales staff through video calls or texting as long as it feels organic and not computerized. Most people do not know if their shopping behaviour is shaped by their personality and this means a lot of undecided consumers brands need to take advantage of. To go about this, brands need to properly define the brand values and create a sense of connection with the consumers. To end, while alternative retail methods are popular there is no preference for any one of them. This is a good thing because there is more potential for these alternative modes. As thrifting becomes more mainstream in India and more brick and mortar stores come up on the scene, the growth can be astronomical. ****

Ex pe rt In te rv ie w s

This portion of my study aims at validating my secondary research and hypothesis through expert interviews. The interview questions were open-ended and customized to fit the specialization of each interview candidate. My goal was to interview a variety of experts to cover more ground. This included experts in traditional retail, thrifting entrepreneur, youth experts, etc. My thought process while generating insights from the interview was to read the answers over and over, till I arrived at a logical and nuanced finding.

Sana Khan Founder & CEO Bombay Closet Cleanse

ana Khan is the co-founder of one of India’s first thrift stores which now has its own brick and mortar store. Sana Khan describes herself as a former avid shopper of fast fashion. “I would hoard more clothes than I needed and get tired of the excess. Reading about the negative impacts of fast fashion changed me,” she shared with Mumbai mirror in a 2020 interview. The reason I chose to interview her is to study the thrift industry in India. From my survey, I found that many consumers are open to thrifting. This bears importance as thrifting may soon reach maturity and hinder retail sales.

Insights Thrifting in India: Past & present: •

•

Social media and influencer culture is still the majority determiner of fashion trends in thrifting in India. Even though export surplus markets have existed for decades, thrifting in India has only taken off, which can be attributed to both social media and the rise in consumer consciousness equally. The way thrift stores interact with trends are different from retail stores. They have to be dependent on the availability of certain items with resellers. In the long run, this could be responsible for fixing the shortened trend cycle by having a slow fashion/ trend effect (opposite of fast fashion trends). There is a large gap in thrifting and convenience in India. Because of the lack of brick and mortar stores, sizing and quality remain a mystery to the consumer. This may drive prospective consumers away and slow the growth process. 61

•

The scope of personalization in thrifting is an inherent quality as many thrift stores are run by one person. However, this changes as the stores grow. This problem can be resolved if the team expands or inventory management becomes efficient.

Thrifting & India’s GenZ •

•

On paper, GenZ is the perfect consumer for thrift stores to target. However, they also like to explore different options and this can potentially harm brand loyalty. Competitive price remains an important determiner of sales growth. GenZ does however appreciate a brand with a mission. They might stick around if they have had a very positive experience with a store.

Technological prospects in thrifting: •

•

Thrift consumers in India are fairly more comfortable with technology that makes their experience easier and convenient. However, they are not as open when it comes to brick and mortar technology. Incorporating video calls into the selling process would increase trust in thrifting. However, it is a tedious process and not always possible with smaller teams. Thrifting has boomed in the past few years but is yet to reach its full potential. Many opportunities lie ahead like aggregator platforms, more brick and mortar stores, NFTs, metaverses, etc. And GenZ will be here to witness it all. ****

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Thrifting is a fairly nascent industry that has grown exponentially over the last 2-3 years. Of course, markets like Sarojini Nagar Market in New Delhi and Colaba Causeway in Mumbai are home to export surplus and secondhand clothing for decades. But the thrifting scenario is a lot more organised now and the customer is more aware of their fashion choices.

Fig 9 Local Shopping Alley

Hiral Arora Fashion critic & Fashion Management student

iral is very involved in the fashion industry and she keeps up with all the latest happenings in the industry. She is currently pursuing Fashion Management at Domus Academy Milan. She owns and operates a fashion criticism and meme account by the name of @chaoswintour. The reason I chose to interview her is that I wanted to pursue the possibility that independent journalists and honest critiques will become the tastemakers amongst GenZ. Additionally, fashion meme content is very popular and personally how I stay informed.

Insights Meme accounts as tastemakers: •

•

Traditional runway trends are no longer the final word. The trends need to be validated by the influencers and TikTok. The new wave of fashion critics is soon going to affect the buying decisions and consumer perception of the brands, once they reach maturity. This leaves the brands vulnerable and in need of a serious strategy to deal with the same. (For example, PPP interacting with micro-influencers through his personal Instagram) Retailers need to equip themselves with knowledge of the latest sub-cultures because they might be more important than mainstream trends.

Trends: India & beyond: • •

Merchandisers in India need to more efficiently use the “buffer time” the latest trends take to catch on. Consumers prefer a hybrid mode of shopping. Online 65

“

I believe it (social media) helps in the creation and propagation of a cult such as Rick Owens and Margiela fans or those who buy archival fashion. However since magazines like Vogue have started to accept the critics as part of the environment, I think they might have more influence over purchase decisions in the coming years

“

shopping is still more convenient. This signifies that stores need to make consumer experiences more pleasant.

Innovations & retail: • • • • •

Gen-Zers are willing to pay to be valued as consumers & find a personalized experience. Technologically forward retail still needs to provide a seamless experience between various channels. Texting can be efficient in getting through to GenZ because of their crippling social anxiety. The future will be synonymous with innovation. Brands need to find a way to stand out. NFTs and Metaverse might still need 2-3 years to mature in fashion. ****

Fig 10: A collection of memes from @ ChaosWintour’s Instagram page

Aakriti Agrawal Luxury executive & Educator

akriti Agrawal is a luxury fashion professional and educator with an extensive understanding of the Indian luxury fashion industry as well as the consumers. She has taught me for two semesters now and I look up to her insights and knowledge. My agenda for her interview was to gather information and insight into GenZ and the luxury fashion industry in India from an insider.

Insights Trends in luxury: • •

Trends are everywhere and to be a trend forecaster, one must be an observer. The trend cycle of luxury goods is more relevant in terms of the voice of the designer. It has a vision that can not be delayed and a message be it social, political or personal.

Retail merchandising: A form of storytelling •

•

The retail process is very different now than it was 20 years ago. Most significantly, the retail planning process has become more consumer-centric. The process now ends only after an effective analysis and feedback stage. Additionally, it is also dynamic + engaging + urgent. Merchandising is about catering to your consumers. The key driver is knowing your product and being able to visually communicate what the consumer wants to see. Consumers can not be put in a box. Give them choices.

“

Let the kids (GenZ) play around and we’ll figure out what they want when the time is right.

Fig 11: Grayscale Photo of a Bird Flying over a Building

GenZ is the future: • • •

GenZ doesn’t want to be told what they want. Let them explore and we will learn what they want. To build loyalty among GenZ, be relevant + meet their demands + be available + give them a voice. Technological advancements in India depend on the brand’s willingness to evolve as well as the consumers’ willingness to adapt.

Desika Prabakar Sustainability Consultant & Environmental researcher

esika Prabakar comes from a background of sustainability through a brand that makes t-shirts from PET bottle waste. Her background also includes fields of research, biotechnology, sustainability, creativity and environmental studies. She was named the Sustainability Project Manager at IIT Madras She waldo also a part of the team that came up with the technology to develop Biodegradable packaging films infused with proprietary nano-additives to enhance mechanical and barrier properties in collaboration with TATA Steel. The interview questions were focused on sustainability and consumer behaviour in GenZ of India.

Insights Running a business in 2022 •

•

Digital resources make it easier to start businesses. However, through this model, there is lesser room for scrutiny and quality control as well as room to exploit labourers. Businesses need to provide convenience and comfort to build loyalty.

GenZ as fast fashion consumers: • • •

Trends can be easily spotted in social settings. This also gives them a chance to spread further. Peer pressure, FOMO & cheaper choices drive the younger Gen Z’s decision making. Fast fashion consumption can fall with the rise of awareness.

Technology & consumers • • •

Technology in retail is not a priority in the consumer’s eyes. Many consumers crave a human-free shopping experience. AI can the best use of technology in the backend.

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I feel fast fashion comsumption by GenZ might start reducing but not a very considerable amount. The level of environmental awareness and built-in eco-consciousness can only significantly change fast fashion.

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Fig 12: Windmill Trees Sustainability Wind

Gunjan Pathak Product Developer, Zara (Inditex)

unjan is a Product Development and sourcing professional with 5 years and running integrated experience in the woven category of apparel with Inditex- Zara. My objective with her interview was to understand the merchandising process through the eyes of an insider. I also asked questions about changes in retail, GenZ consumer behaviour, technological advancements in retail in India and future prospects in retail.

Insights Fashion’s bigger picture: • •

• •

Fashion is all about reacting to the outside world. The trends in fashion are largely influenced by the PESTEL factors. Fashion is a forward-looking industry and thus always looking to adapt to the environment. In retail, competition is essential to sustain in the market. Retail is completely different now than it was 10 years ago. The most dramatic shift is the digitization of the process. Sustainable practises and a search for social justice is going to be an essential part of retail going forward. Technology and AI have opened unique doors for innovation in fashion and textile technology.

The new-age consumers: • •

Gen Z is no longer loyal to a brand, they are exploring the effort of brand enthusiasm. Gen Z wants to be unique and personal. They are always looking for more options and unique experiences. 77

Fig 13: Gray Button-up Long Sleeve Shirt

•

Gen Z is the most empowered generation as consumers. They enjoy benefits that previous generations couldn’t even imagine. This renders them influential beyond their age. GenZ is looking for a connection, be it online or offline.

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Focus Group Analysis & Discussion Agenda: To test and analyse how an average Gen Z consumer interacts with elements of my formula. Additionally, try to understand consumers’ relationships with traditional retail, future technology and alternative retail modes. All questions and discussions thereafter, try to either verify or dismiss parts of my formula.

Scheduled time & date: • • • •

Time: 3:00 pm Date: Saturday. March 5, 2022 Duration of call: 45 - 60 minutes Method of call: Zoom

People: • • • •

Riddhi Redkar, Fashion Communicator Priyuta Sodiwala, Fashion Communicator

Tanisha Chag, Product Designer, intern at Pensaar Design Prajna Gogeneni, SDM Student, Design Intern at HSBC

The main criteria I used to pick people for my focus group was their genuinity. I wanted to be sure that the answers I got were indeed their true feelings as opposed to popular opinions. The next thing I wanted to ensure was that the participants were comfortable in each other’s company and were able to freely converse. For this, I chose people in my close proximity who either knew each other or were informed that they could be frank. Finally, I wanted to find a diverse lot that could give me a new perspective, I couldn’t find elsewhere. Riddhi Redkar is a very intelligent and well-versed fashion student who could share her knowledge of the neurodiverse population. Priyuta is a confident and savvy member of the GenZ who keeps up with pop culture. Tanisha has a timeless and evergreen sense of style and likes to prioritize comfort and quality. Prajna is extremely observative of her environment and I have always respected her opinions and found her to be a very good test subject due to her openness and insightful feedback.

Prajna

Priyuta

Riddhi

Tanisha

GenZ is very unique & responsible and not kids trying to have fun: The thing about GenZ is: most of us are still kids. Even though many members of the GenZ are opting to actively live a responsible and sustainable life, many, if not most are still trying to find themselves. This means impulse buying, looking for more choices, exploring different channels, can be easily swayed or contrarily frustrated and confused. GenZ has grown up in a time when the stigma around uncomfortable topics has been debunked and people feel free to express themselves freely. Just in this focus group, we discussed the problem with colourism in the beauty industry and the lack of accessibility for people who identify as neurodiverse. This exact fact leads me to believe brands will not get away with being selfish, and this verifies that brands need to cater to the perfect person whilst finding the perfect purpose.

The joy of online- or lack thereof: If there is anything I would like to take away from this focus group, most people don’t just prefer online or offline shopping. There are many things that influence this decision. I identified a common trend when conversing, people tend to prefer offline when they are looking for an experience and prefer online when they are looking for deals and convenience. Tanisha brought up a very interesting point, she said,” In 82

Fig 14: Person Holding Black Iphone 4

a way, this technology we see online is literally trying to create a real-life experience we are familiar with while shopping at stores.” (paraphrased). Be it online or offline, the experience brands should aim to create is an immersive and seamless one. This verifies my theory about brands finding the perfect platform for their audience.

Death of impulsive buying (Conditions apply): My focus group subjects all agreed that impulse buying was an unhealthy habit they would like to be free of. Two of the focus group subjects expressed that they had successfully controlled their impulses and started shopping only based on needs. This impulse is strong both online and offline, mostly brought out by boredom. However, most people find sales notifications exciting and are drawn to shop. This impulse when served at the right time (a moment of boredom) can entice GenZ into buying things they don’t need nor have the budget for.

Is this the future?: When speaking of technology, everyone had different insights to share. Firstly, the consumers aren’t expecting every brand to be on top of the latest technology or create a metaverse, they just want technology that supports and elevates their shopping experience. Secondly, luxury brands that do invest in immersive technology are expanding their consumer base as aspirants are drawn to the brand and it leaves a mark on them. Thirdly, GenZ likes to have fun and the brands should too.

They need to find ways to keep GenZ interested and give them new ways to interact with the brand. All of these observations and yet many people prefer stores and malls for the journey they can’t get online. So clearly, technology hasn’t peaked in fashion.

Give me money so I can donate it (wink): It seems we are all in agreement that brands using social issues to drive sales and engagement are a menace to society. While there is nothing wrong with a brand trying to support a cause they believe in, using these issues as a PR strategy leaves their audience with a bad taste. Based on the focus group, brands can be a lot more effective if they take smaller meaningful steps. This can be supporting local artists, periodically donating, using their platform to highlight stories of underprivileged classes, etc.

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Results Generation Z: •

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Generation Z (also called zoomers) refers to the demographic that was born between 1997 to 2009. They succeeding Millennials and preceding Generation Alpha. As is true for any generation, the collective consciousness of GenZ has been influenced by their upbringing and the socio-economic & technological context of time. Generation Z in India is one of the largest in the world, reaching up to 450 million individuals. Generation Z in India is a huge fashion market, especially in retail & fast fashion. As the first generation that has grown up with the internet, Generation Z has a very short attention span and high expectations from brands both online & offline. There will be long-lasting effects on Generation Z’s individual development due to the abrupt and vigorous changes brought by the global pandemic. 58.3% of the respondents from my survey say that the pandemic has changed their shopping behaviour and 15% deny this phenomenon. However, 51.9% believe these changes will sustain once all is back to normal. Generation Z has very high social and environmental 86

Generation Z in India is one of the largest in the world, reaching up to 450 million individuals.

450M

As the first generation that has grown up with the internet, Generation Z has a very short attention span and high expectations from brands both online & offline. To truly appeal to GenZ, the brands must adapt to their taste and rise to their ethical standards. To build a lasting relationship with customers, retailers should have store associates focus on building trust with kindness and authenticity.

Independent marketplaces like Amazon and Instagram Business has allowed many independent retailers to become more accessible.

Consumers can not be generalised, retailers must collect data from the consumers. Brands that fall short are not only losing a customer, but a community. Leading fashion innovators are trying to solve problems like waste management, deadstock fabrics, animal cruelty, overconsumption, etc that plague the industry. 87

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awareness brought on by primary education and reinforce by the internet. The oldest of Generation Z is fast becoming a part of the workforce. This indicates a rise in spending power. The most popular brands among GenZ remains to be fast fashion giants like H&M and Zara. When asked what triggered their last purchase, 30.4% of the respondents said boredom, 44.6% said an upcoming event. All of Gen Z show vertical defiance and horizontal conformity. There is an inclination to define themselves as more open-minded and normdivergent than the previous generation. For Gen Z, making money is not really about having a job, it’s more about expression and art. The tug between matching the western global idea of liberalisation and dealing with the current rigid gender norms of the country has certainly allowed for a more progressive gender expression, but certainly not a gender-fluid expression. The internet, capitalism and new technology have created a choice crisis for youth. GenZ wields influence far beyond their wealth and experience. And they have redefined loyalty as we traditionally know it. Quality, price, aesthetics and unique design seem to be the most important factor affecting buying decisions. Technology is important to them, but only if it adds value and enhances their shopping experience. And

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they expect to be able to make that experience uniquely their own. To truly appeal to GenZ, the brands must adapt to their taste and rise to their ethical standards. On paper, GenZ is the perfect consumer for thrift stores to target. However, they also like to explore different options and this can potentially harm brand loyalty. GenZ doesn’t want to be told what they want. As the youth, they want to express themselves on their own terms. Many members of the GenZ are opting to actively live a responsible and sustainable life, many, if not most are still trying to find themselves. GenZ wants to be heard and valued as individuals.

Retail & Ecommerce in India: •

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E-commerce in India is rapidly expanding and has come to become many people’s preferred mode of shopping during the pandemic. 40% of respondents from my survey said that they only shop online when they have to. Whereas, 55% of respondents said they only go offline shopping when they have to. 48.3% of these latest purchases were made online, and the rest 51.7% were made offline. During the festival period in 2020, Amazon, Flipkart 89

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and various vertical players sold goods worth US$ 9 billion despite the pandemic onslaught. Customers have the ever-increasing choice of products at the lowest rates. Technological trends in retail are especially promising as they increase efficiency and decrease the workload on the supply chain. Predictive analytics allows retailers to be proactive about the future by analyzing consumer behaviour and trends from the past. Independent marketplaces like Amazon and Instagram Business has allowed many independent retailers to become more accessible. Many of these retailers give corporations a run for their money, whilst being run by a very small team. 56.7% of respondents prefer new alternative retail methods (thrifting, rental, etc) to traditional retail. Consumers can not be generalised, retailers must take time to collect data from the consumers. Brands that fall short are not only going to lose a customer, but they also lose a community. Customer interaction with brands occurs in physical locations/stores as well as online stores, social networks, mobile applications. To build a lasting relationship with customers, retailers should have store associates focus on building trust with kindness and authenticity. The new path to purchase is paved with research. Consumers often use their online sources to find the best & convenient path and fulfil the need through offline portals to experience the journey of the purchase. 95% of the respondents believe that there is a difference between an in-store shopping experience and an online shopping experience.

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When asked which one did they prefer, 33.3% of respondents said a hybrid experience. Social media and influencer culture is still the majority determiner of fashion trends in India. Technology in retail is not a priority in the consumer’s eyes. At the same time, many consumers crave a human-free shopping experience. Consumers are more informed than ever & brands will no longer get away with being selfish.

Retail experiences & Future opportunities: •

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People tend to prefer offline when they are looking for an experience and prefer online when they are looking for deals and convenience. The phenomenon of impulse buying is present both online and offline. However, it is strongest online. The practice of greenwashing is a unique problem that makes it hard for consumers to trust brands. Accessibility remains to be a great problem as well as a glorious opportunity for retailers. Many people prefer stores and malls for the journey they can’t get online “GenZ has more time on their hands and thus they crave a unique experience they can brag on the internet about.” said a respondent from my survey. When asked if the consumers of India were ready for technologically forward retail 46.7% responded not sure. Texting can be efficient in getting through to GenZ because of their crippling social anxiety. Thrifting has boomed in the past few years but is yet to reach its full potential. The new wave of fashion critics is soon going to affect

•

the buying decisions and consumer perception of the brands, once they reach maturity. Leading fashion innovators are trying to solve problems like waste management, deadstock fabrics, animal cruelty, overconsumption, etc that plague the industry.

Discussions

Fashion is a massive industry and one that doesn’t wait for anyone. So, why should it care for GenZ? They’re just kids, right? Retail Prophet’s Doug Stephens disagrees. In an episode of BoF Retail Reborn, he says,” The coronavirus pandemic has become a wormhole into the future — pushing both consumers and retailers firmly across the threshold of the digital era. What we may be seeing is a return to human connection, discovery and entertainment in retail, at a scale never before imaginable.” In my interview with luxury veteran Aakriti Agrawal, she emphasized that in the last 10-20 years, fashion has become increasingly consumer-centric. A retailer’s job is not only to fulfil consumers’ needs but also to anticipate them.

Fig 15: White Crew-Neck Shirt

Fig 16: A group of students holding placards

Let’s talk about GenZ, and what makes them tick. Throughout the late 2010s, we have heard or seen the youth taking a stand, speaking against injustice or using their platform to spread awareness about various issues that plague our world. Contrarily, we have also seen them being called hypocrites or “internet warriors” without any real-world influence. Well then, which is it? I am afraid the answer isn’t as black and white. GenZ isn’t a homogenous group, some of them are still in high school, whilst the others just got their first job! So, yes they aren’t all perfect, but is it fair to expect so much of the youth? The responsibility of fixing our world and minimizing the waste and pain caused by large corporations cannot be put on one group. This responsibility is often accompanied by gaslighting and greenwashing by the same large corporations to drive further sales while declining to take responsibility.

GenZ is still kids, and kids need to play and discover themselves. That is a responsibility for the retailers. They need to build trust and offer choices, so GenZ can discover themselves. Retailers also need to offer them convenience while making it easier to choose the right thing to do.

While my secondary research indicated that Generation Z has a very high social and environmental awareness, this was contradicted by my primary research as the most common brand that my respondents purchased from was H&M, a fastfashion notorious for not paying fair wages to their workers, creating massive waste, greenwashing, etc.

A successful way luxury brands are gaining potential consumers is by catering to GenZ, who cannot afford luxury at the time, but can dare to dream. From my focus group, I found that brands investing in the edutainment (entertainment and education) of their consumers are attracting aspiring consumers too. This can come in the form of immersive UI or the use of technology like the Gucci Garden.

However, that is not the end all be all. Many of the respondents also expressed their confidence in alternative retail modes that don’t harm the environment and her people as much. The most common alternative mode is thrifting or secondhand purchase.

To study this effect further, I interview Sana Khan, a thrifting pioneer in India. She had a lot to say about thrifting at present, but perhaps what stood out to me was the bright future ahead. “But the thrifting scenario is a lot more organised now and the customer is more aware of their fashion choices.” Thrifting in India is far from its peak, and as GenZ becomes even more aware of the secrets of the low prices of their favourite brands, will we finally see the glorious fall of fast fashion.

Let’s focus on the age-old debate of online vs offline. Throughout my primary research, rarely did anyone disagree when I asked them if there was any difference in an offline vs online experience. Most of my subjects know which they prefer and why, but they have also come to expect a seamless experience with maximum convenience and minimum discomfort. Online shopping comes with its own advantages for brands, as it gives them the opportunity to record data on consumer behaviours. In offline settings, this becomes increasingly subjective and harder to record.

A strong digital strategy can serve as a way to get customers into a store and foster further engagement. Find ways to make online shopping another way to connect with consumer and make it easier for them to trust you. This ofcourse, is subject to change. For example, Priyuta from my focus group likes the attention and personalization that comes with smaller Instagram businesses. This is something larger platforms often miss out on. Even though the purchase is made online, speaking to a person makes all the difference.

Technology in retail is not a priority in the consumer’s eyes. At the same time, many consumers crave a human-free shopping experience. I suspect technology is the most appreciated when it can’t be perceived as such. A subject from my focus group said they liked Amazon because of the extensive search engine. Another said that they appreciated whenever a brand used their platform to share the stories of their employees, local artists, etc.

This brings me to my next point: Retailers need to equip themselves with knowledge of the latest subcultures because they might be more important than mainstream trends. As mentioned before, GenZ are still in the process of discovering themselves and their personal style. This means they love to experiment with different styles and sub-cultures. Brands need to be there to help GenZ with the same.

Finally, I wanted to research if timing played an importan role in buying decisions. The answer to this was multifaceted and not at what I was expecting. For example, through my secondary research I found that, during the festival period in 2020, Amazon, Flipkart and various vertical players sold goods worth US$ 9 billion despite the pandemic onslaught. (IBEF, 2021) In my focus group, one subject also brought up sale season. She remarked that getting notifications about an ongoing sale often attracted her to the app even when she has no intention of buying anything. Additionally, when there is a time limit for the cessation of the sale, the need to purchase becomes overwhelming.

To conclude, the possibilities are endless. So far, GenZ has proven that they care about being a mindful shopper, but above all they just want to have fun. The way the current socio-political scenario changes will shape how they act & shop, and we will evaluate them again. GenZ still has a long way to go before they mature as consumers and become the most important demography on fashion’s radar. But for now, they are just kids trying to have fun.

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Fig 17: Woman with Anonymous Coworkers in Office

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Thesis Outcome

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Here onward, I try to bring my thesis to a cinematic ending with a creative solution. From the very beginning, I have been trying to create a resolution that was catchy and easy to remember, just like math formulas. Well, maybe not easy to remember, but concise and to the point. Hence, my resolution will revolve around the word “formula”. My outcome will be created in the form of a fashion lab, and I am a mad scientist trying to figure GenZ out. Of the three ideas I have mentioned in the following pages, I chose to finalize idea #2. My plan is to create a short animation format video that visually communicates my idea. The reason for this is my idea is a B2B solution and thus meant to be a mix of informational & educational. The 3D animation was the best fit for a couple of reasons: 1. It would be easy to communicate my idea visually 2. It would be easy to share and revisit. 3. It would be challenging for me and a fun process. To reach this ideation I followed an intensive five-week brainstorming and prototyping session. I started with four distinct ideas and calculated whichever would be the best representative of my ideas. This included a diorama of the lab, a 3D animation, a VR experience of he lab and a NFT collecion of the formula elements & the scientist.

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Outcome Ideation

way to describe every aspect of the formula. Final touches will include interactive elements like lights, movement, etc. Softwares used: Adobe Photoshop (backdrop)

Idea #1

Estimated time: 2 weeks

Diorama of a retail lab inspired by my formula.

Estimated cost: ₹5,000 (Raw materials, labour,

Description: A diorama can be defined as a model representing a scene with three-dimensional figures, either in miniature or as a large-scale museum exhibit. In this case, the diorama will be of a retail lab with hints of fashion. How to create: To create a retail lab diorama, I will have to create a backdrop separately and fill the scene with appropriate props. Additionally, I will also have to figure out a

etc) Possible challenges: Incompetence with handy work, difficulty in presenting online.

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Idea #2 3D animation of a retail lab inspired by my formula. Description: 3D animation is when computer-generated objects appear to move through three-dimensional space. In this case, the animation will be of a retail lab with an emphasis on certain tools. The final animation can be uploaded on YouTube for easy access. In the thesis book, I can add a scannable

code that will take viewers directly to my outcome. How to create: I will have to first figure out an appropriate setting aka a lab. This will be filled with typical lab equipment. Then I will create the main elements of the formula and add animation to

these. I will also have to add small chunks of text to explain my central idea. The last step will be to create the final animation render.

Softwares used: Blender, Adobe AfterEffects Estimated time: 2 weeks Estimated cost: ₹15,000 (Raw materials, labour, etc) Possible challenges: Learning a new software from scratch, time constraints.

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Idea #3 VR experience of a retail lab inspired by my formula. Description: Virtual Reality, or VR, is the use of computer technology to create a simulated environment that can be explored in 360

degrees. Unlike traditional interfaces, VR places the user inside the virtual environment to give an immersive experience. In this case, the virtual reality will be the retail lab and the interactive elements will be lifted from the formula. I can add buttons and other rooms to make the experience immersive. How to create: To start off, I’ll have to create the room aka the lab. This will be done on either photoshop or any interior decorating software like Homebyme. Once the room is done, I can go in with the details like elements from the formula. I can add buttons on each element that can redirect the viewer to a page that explains the same. The experience itself will be made on Blippar. To present the final outcome, I may have to prerecord the final room and present it as a video. For real-time use, I will have to publish the VR experience which requires money. (Get in touch with Akshit sir for the education account.)

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Softwares used: Homebyme, Blippar, Adobe Photoshop, Figma. Estimated time: 10 days Estimated cost: ₹5,000 (Softwares, resources, etc) Possible challenges: Technical difficulties in presenting realtime.

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Conceptualization Earlier on, I was pretty sure I wanted to create a VR experience. It would be innovative, immersive and appropriate for the subject matter. I had previous experience in making VR spaces so I was confident. I even created a mock lab for the background and I was ready to start working. However, I did think this was an easier way out. I wanted to challenge myself by exploring something new. Another problem was that my solution wasn’t meant for a general audience, rather it is a B2B solution and meant for brands wanting to target GenZ. This meant the solution had to be quick and easy to absorb. Hence, I reached my current solution: a 3D animation of a fashion lab. This version of the solution would be quick, whimsical and visually appealing. I am excited to start working on it as I have always wanted to try 3D rendering and this may be the perfect opportunity. To create the animation, I used the 3D software Blender. I had no previous training in the same and had to teach myself the software from scratch within a few months. It was exciting and intimidating at the same time.

Duration breakdown Total: 280 to 300 seconds (5 minutes) Intro: 50 seconds Body: 3 minutes 20 seconds Outro: 30 seconds

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Synopsis The following video presentation is the artistic expression of my thesis outcome. You will be shown a 3D animation created to convey my idea simply. The setting is a fashion lab to match the aura of a scientifically proven formula. The narrator’s tone is light and friendly as is the norm for Gen Z online. The imagery is created to be equal parts rooted in realism and current trends in 3D animation. The animation is short and crisp to keep the audience hooked while getting as much information as possible. Every word in the animation serves a purpose and is instrumental in understanding the idea behind my thesis.

Storyline What you’re about to witness can be best defined as a one-way conversation. Our main and only character & narrator is a fashion scientist who has, at last, cracked the young and ambitious nut we call GenZ. This short story takes place in a fashion scientists’ lab, where we witness five elements come together to create the perfect retail experience for Gen Z. Welcome to the digital circus!

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Animation Script Intro (Narrator speaking while camera inches over the lab) Greetings all.

Lately, I’ve been thinking, what makes GenZ tick? Upon

exploring questions like are “they really that different from the older generations” or “Why should I care what Gen Z

wants?” I’ve concluded that they sure are different but not a very hard nut to crack.

Over the past few weeks, I have worked on formulating and validating the formula for creating the perfect shopping environment for GenZ.

On that note, follow along as I hypothesise (emphasis) the formula to win over the Gen Z audience. Welcome to The Gen Z formula: A antithesis.

(B-roll of the lab interiors and slowly going over details) (Start next para halfway through) Body (Zoomed out over the lab: transition of light mode to dark mode)

A long time ago, there was nothing and then the gods said: Let there be internet. A few billion years since the dinosaurs (pause) and now you can buy assets that have never

existed in the real world and make a few million dollars. 112

What an age we live in!

So, in a world of endless possibilities, can the smaller

brands survive or are they the only ones standing? What

would I do to build a brand that captivates them and keeps them coming back for more?

(Zoom into a small surface on a table) (Animation of cash & rising bars… repeat animation till the end of the sentence)

What would you consider a perfect retail experience?

Is it the absence of any troubles? Or is it something you experience on a luxury couch while sipping on some mimosas?

According to my study, a perfect retail experience can be found through the marriage of the following elements:

(Pan over to animation of a miniature levitating fashion boutique)

Firstly, find the perfect platform for your audience. What

might be this (emphasis) perfect platform? For a subject of my focus group, this is accesibility. For me, it’s the marriage of tactile experience and convenience. What is this for you?

(Panning over the two body forms and cryo tank) An industry like fashion, simply wouldn’t exist without a

consumer. This is why fashion is taking an increasingly consumer-centric approach.

And in this chaos, it is crucial that a brand not only

recognizes its consumers but also anticipates their needs and predicts their buying patterns. Additionally, brands 113

also need to keep in mind that consumers are reluctant to support brands with a (emphasis) problematic image.

(Symbolizing time through a stopwatch & hourglass) How many of you have been freaked out by how specific targeted ads can get? They sure are spooky but, wow

sometimes it’s good to just get what you want at the right time.

This is exactly what brands need to be doing, getting to their consumers at just the right moment before their competitors do.

How can this be done? Increased organic engagement

without being intrusive. (pause & mockingly) Good luck with that one retailer.

(Animation loop of a plant growing) Probably the most distinct and urgent addition to a consumer’s list of demands is the need to do good.

Consumers are more aware than ever and no longer willing to blindly trust corporations.

They need to know that their money is not the fuel that burns the earth to its depletion. And for that, many are

opting to either widen their budgets or spend more time researching or even shop for pre-loved items.

The possibilities are endless for the consumers and so, as a brand you have to take initiative and build trust.

(Hologram of a dress projecting from a phone) To end on a strong note, technology. The best thing about fashion is that it is always moving forward, we’re always 114

looking for the next best thing.

And in this case, technology and innovation is the way

forward. Throughout my research, I saw that technology

doesn’t always have to be as big as a digital world, it can

be something as simple as personalised recommendations or organic customer support.

And, this technology has to be an added value, it can’t just be another ridiculously slow page to load.

(Show all elements in a formula format) Outro (Zoom out to the whole the lab) To summarize, the perfect retail experience can be

achieved by finding the perfect platform while catering to the perfect person at the right time while pursuing a perfect purpose, using the perfect technology.

That’s a mouthful, but through my study, I have concluded that the above steps can be instrumental in a brand’s success with Gen Z.

That’s my time. Let’s conquire the youth and win the future.

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Animation Style Guide

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n this section of the book, I go into the details of my resolution. My final outcome is an animation of a retail lab that describes my findings and the formula calculated through my research. My outcome is a B2B solution and thus, meant to be informative and sales-oriented. My main goal is to be clear through the script and express my ideas through a creative vision to keep my audience hooked. The style I tend to follow for my animation can be described as whimsical, stylized and bold. These are words I identify with GenZ and thus, it will be a refreshing addition to my otherwise rigid structured book. The elements covered in this style guide are: 1. Overall setting of the lab 2. Details in the lab 3. Environment lighting 4. Focus lighting 5. Textures 6. Colours (Primary, secondary, accent & lighting) 7. Formula elements 8. Decoration 9. Animation styles

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Retail lab: Exterior

Fig 18.1 Jorik Waeterschoot (Light mode) To be used when focusing on the lab.

Fig 18.2 Jorik Waeterschoot (Dark mode) To be used when focusing on singular elements.

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Isometric room setting Spacious & well lit Isolate space (outside of the room) Realistic wall fixtures & storage spaces Sleek tiled floor 118

Retail lab: Details Fig 18.3 Jorik Waeterschoot (Desk details 1) To be specific to fashion, retail & GenZ

Fig 18.4 Jorik Waeterschoot (Desk details 2) Metal texture to bounce off lighting for a stylized look.

Fig 18.5 Jorik Waeterschoot (Desk details 3) Essential technology like computers.

Fig 18.6 Jorik Waeterschoot (Desk details 4) Lab essential: microscope.

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Fig. Desk details 5 Examples of retail focused elements for desk decoration.

Lighting: Environment

Fig 19: Environment light: Combination of spot & Point

Fig 20: Meeting Doodles Tiny Living Room. Creating a natural flow of light through windows to give a youthful look

Fig 21: Scientist Lair. Accent lights for a stylized look.

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Lighting: Focus

Fig 22: Bisexual light: Simultaneous use of pink, purple, and blue lighting to create depth & interest.

Fig 23: Bisexual light: Use of the light against metal textures to create a futuristic visual narrative.

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Fig 24: Accent colours through visuals like holograms.

Textures

Painted wood

Metal

Clear glass

Drywall

Common plastic

Colours #FFFFFD #A3B7BE

#76DE47

#81C9F2

#1C1A32 #F87E10 #FEB0EB

Primary colours: used for room walls, background, major furnishing, etc.

#FD282D #FFFE86

Accent colours: used within lighting setups & other minor places.

Secondary colours: used for various items in the room including lab equipment, etc.

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Formula elements

Perfect retail experience = Finding the perfect platform + Catering to the perfect person + Finding the right time + Finding a perfect purpose + Using the perfect technology

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Decorations

Fashion specific decorations: retail elements on desk, fashion photography on walls, retail stickers, fashion books, etc.

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Animation style

Fig 25: Klčo, “Evening Coffee.”

Fig 27: BP, Microworld

Fig 26: SIngh, Toy faces

Room: Low-Poly Isometric Modeling Elements: Low-Poly Stylized Fig 28: Gucci pop-up store

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Animation Process & BTS

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Previous page: L to R: A closeup the final retail lab in light mode, a close-up the final retail lab in dark mode. This page: Top row L to R: Icons for the perfect platform in light & dark mode.

This page: Top row: Avatars for the perfect person This page: Bottom row L to R: Icons for perfect experience, perfect technology, perfect purpose & perfect time.

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Outcome:

Formula breakdown

hat would you consider a perfect retail experience? Is it the absence of any troubles? Or is it something you experience on a luxury couch while sipping on some mimosas? According to my study, a perfect retail experience can be found through the marriage of the following elements: Perfect Platform: Catered to your audience. What might be this perfect platform? For a subject of my focus group, this is accessibility. For me, it’s the marriage of tactile experience and convenience. Platforms for shopping have found new meaning in the last two decades. From being limited to small scale shops to the development of social shopping via upscale malls, and now the varied world of eCommerce. The mode or platform of selling is as important as the product being sold. Perfect Person: An industry like fashion, simply wouldn’t exist without a consumer. This is why fashion is taking an increasingly consumer-centric approach. And in this chaos, it is crucial that a brand not only recognizes its consumers but also anticipates their needs and predicts their buying patterns. Additionally, brands also need to keep in mind that consumers are reluctant to support brands with a problematic image. Consumers yield a lot of power over the decisions a brand

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makes, but the same consumer would abandon the brand in a heartbeat if their values were opposed. Perfect Time: How many of you have been freaked out by how specific targeted ads can get? They sure are spooky but, wow sometimes it’s good to just get what you want at the right time. This is exactly what brands need to be doing, getting to their consumers at just the right moment before their competitors do. How can this be done? Increased organic engagement without being intrusive. Good luck with that one retailer. Perfect purpose: Probably the most distinct and urgent addition to a consumer’s list of demands is the need to do good. Consumers are more aware than ever and no longer willing to blindly trust corporations. They need to know that their money is not the fuel that burns the earth to its depletion. And for that, many are opting to either widen their budgets or spend more time researching or even shop for pre-loved items. This is also supported by the DIY culture GenZ is cultivating, because they would rather make something and support their local markets than give their money to billionaires. The possibilities are endless for the consumers and so, as a brand you have to take initiative and build trust. Perfect Technology: The best thing about fashion is that it is always moving forward, we’re always looking for the next big thing. And in this case, technology and innovation is the way forward. Throughout my research, I saw that 133

technology doesn’t always have to be as big as a digital world, it can be something as simple as personalised recommendations or organic customer support. And, this technology has to be an added value, it can’t just be another ridiculously slow page to load. To summarise, the perfect retail experience can be achieved by finding the perfect platform while catering to the perfect person at the right time while pursuing a perfect purpose, using the perfect technology. That’s a mouthful, but through my study, I have concluded that the above steps can be instrumental in a brand’s success with Gen Z and your business strategy needs to reflect these values.

******

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Outcome: Animation

SCAN ABOVE Or CLICK HERE to view the animation.

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Conclusions My research started with a simple question, “how can I use my thesis as a way to equip myself with ample knowledge to become a successful buyer one day in the future?” This question evolved into a 360-degree study of retail as a whole. The obvious segment of consumers to study were GenZ, after all the youth is our future. When I started to look into this group, it astounded me how they are being shaped as well as shaping the industry to be better. GenZ is such a distinct group that they are the opposite of what retailers have been catering to in the past. An important factor in this equation is also the digitization of our world. My research kept peeling and exposing me to more and more layers in the complex relationship GenZ of India have with the fashion industry at large. I had to find a to summarize my learning and just then, I realized an equation is what I have been dealing with and an equation I shall yield to the jury. My outcome aims at being simple at its core. I want people to recognize the nuance of GenZ and meet them with understanding and patience.

Fig 29: Glass Bottles in Bag

136

Future Prospects The future of fashion will be synonymous with innovation. As technology, fashion is forward-looking and cyclical. Today, fashion technology is growing at a faster pace than ever. Not just that, but fashion is also the most accepting it has ever been. From runways held in the metaverse to video game collaborations with heritage brands, fashion is down to clown. On the more individual level, however, we are still struggling to captivate the GenZ and build longlasting loyalty. There have been studies to prove further that it is in fact possible to create loyalty with GenZ, we just need to know, how? There is a gap when it comes to studying the effects of the pandemic on consumer behaviours and the way it will shape the future. My research tried to overcome this gap as well as fill it in the context of the Indian apparel market. Other areas that can be good to study are alternative retail methods like thrifting, customization, small online business, etc. Another important area to study is the implication of fast fashion enforced by education. Some areas that I would’ve liked to get deeper into but couldn’t due to various constraints were Indian GenZ and their relationship with luxury, the importance of timing in retail, and so on. Either way, technology has a long way to go and so does research in fashion. 137

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Annexure Survey Questions Thesis: Retail consumer behaviours & the future of fashion retail in India Hello, thanks for taking some time to fill my survey. This survey is a crucial step towards my thesis which focuses on the future of retail in India and how Gen Z will influence it. Your answers will help me formulate a hypothesis and come up with a formula that can apply to retail in five years taking into account themes of technological advances, sustainability, ethics and a seamless experience. My goal with this survey is to understand consumer behaviour and expectations. The questions are focused on the shopping experience and their perceived ideas for the future of retail. It must be noted that all the information gathered from this survey will strictly be used for educational purposes and no personal information will be shared.

#1 Hello, Thanks for taking some time to fill my survey. Kindly start by stating your name *

#2 Please state your occupation * •

Student (Primary education)

•

Student (University)

•

Young professional (less than 2 years experience)

•

Experienced professional (more than 2 years experience)

•

Unemployed

•

Other:

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#3 Your email address (It will only be used in case of emergency or further questioning and not be shared with anyone else.) *

#4 And your age * •

>15

•

16-19

•

20-25

•

25<

#5 Do you have a favourite brand? If yes, state that below: (You can mention multiple brands) * #6 How often do you go online shopping? * •

Once every week

•

Once every few weeks

•

Only once or twice a year

•

Only when I have to

#7 How often do you go offline shopping? (In-store) * •

Once every week

•

Once every few weeks

•

Only once or twice a year

•

Only when I have to

#8 When was the last time you shopped? * •

This week

•

Last month

•

Over 6 months ago

•

Over 12 months ago

•

Other:

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#9 Which brand/store was this purchase made? #10 Was this online or offline? * •

Online

•

Offline

#11 What influences your buying decisions? * •

Aesthetic

•

Price

•

Brand ethics (Inclusivity, Organic, Supporting charities, etc)

•

Quality

•

Unique design

•

Hype

•

Other:

#12 And was there anything in particular that triggered your last purchase? If yes, what was it? •

Boredom

•

An upcoming event

•

Urgent requirement

•

Other:

#13 Based on the above questions, how was the experience? •

1 being Very bad

•

10 being Very good

#14 Has the pandemic changed the way you shop? * •

Yes

•

Maybe

152

•

Haven’t noticed

•

Other:

#15 Based on the previous question, do you think these buying habits will sustain once everything is back to normal? (If your answer was no, ignore this question) •

Yes

•

Maybe

#16 What is the most you’ve spent on clothes in a month? (In INR) * •

500-5,000

•

6,000-15,000

•

15,000- 40,000

•

Over 50,000

#17 Do you think there is a difference between an in-store

shopping experience and an online shopping experience? * •

Yes

•

Maybe

•

Doesn’t matter

#18 Which one do you prefer? * •

Online

•

Offline

•

Hybrid (Research online & buy in-store)

•

Other:

#19 Is your shopping behaviour triggered by your personality type (introvert/extrovert)? For example, do you find yourself saying: I would rather go to the mall with my friends than stay home and 153

shop online. * •

Yes

•

Maybe

•

Don’t know

#20 As a consumer, do you think India ready for technologically forward retail? (AR/VR, Sales associates on apps for real-time support, online clothes try-on, etc) * •

1 for Strongly disagree

•

5 for Strongly agree

#21 Are store associates (sales staff) important in a shopping experience? * •

1 for Strongly disagree

•

5 for Strongly agree

#22 Do you prefer new alternative retail methods (thrifting, rental,

etc) to traditional retail? Alternative retail methods refer to new emerging ways to shop for fashion as an alternative to the wasteful fast fashion industry. This may include buying second hand, renting rather than buying, etc. * •

Yes

•

Maybe

•

Don’t know

•

Prefer not to say

#23 If yes, which of the following alternatives to traditional retail do you think has potential? * •

Thrifting/Second hand

•

Rental

154

•

Upcycling (Mending old clothes and giving them a new life)

•

Bespoke/customizable (Made to measure clothing)

•

Other:

#24 Finally, do you have any closing notes for me regarding consumer behaviour of Gen Z or the future of retail?

******

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Interview transcripts #1 Sana Khan Simi: Thank you for taking some time out to answer these questions. I would like to start with understanding your area of expertise within fashion and retail. State your name and designation as well. Sana: I am Sana Khan, Founder and CEO of Bombay Closet

Cleanse - one of India’s earlier Instagram thrift stores and India’s first brick and mortar thrift store. I have been running the store since 2019. I do not have a formal background in fashion or retail.

SD: Does your role require you to keep up with industry trends? If yes, how do you keep up with fashion trends?

SK: Yes, I mainly take care of sourcing thrifted clothing for the store so I need to keep up with industry trends. Instagram is the main source I use to understand what’s trending.

SD: How is the thrifting scenario in India different now than it was 5-10 years ago? SK: Thrifting is a fairly nascent industry that has grown

exponentially over the last 2-3 years. Before this, the use of the word ‘thrift’ was not as common as most people were not aware of it as a concept. Of course, markets like Sarojini Nagar Market in New Delhi and Colaba Causeway in Mumbai are home to export surplus and secondhand clothing for decades. But the thrifting scenario is a lot more organised now and the customer is more aware of their fashion choices.

SD: How do merchandisers at your institution cope with the rapid pace of change brought about by eCommerce technology, fast fashion and the shortened trend cycle? SK: It’s tough to cope with ever-changing trends especially as

a thrift store as we have no control over what we receive and therefore, cannot predict what our collection would like say next month, or even next week! We currently work very hard to provide competitive pricing. We have now started to pre-empt trends based on season/occasions and we start scouting for resellers for specific items (For eg: trench coats for winter, corsets for

156

Halloween, etc) a lot in advance so we are better prepared.

SD: In your opinion, how is an offline experience of shopping different from an online experience? (Specifically in thrifting) SK: With thrifted clothing, standardised size charts are difficult to

maintain. All brands follow different sizing and it gets difficult to communicate this on an online store. The biggest advantage of an offline shopping experience is the chance to try on the clothes and make an informed buying decision. With our brick-and-mortar store in Bandra, we have tried replicating the ambience of a typical thrift store in New York - which adds to the shopping experience. We also feel that when it comes to vintage and designer pieces, the touch and feel of the product is very important - and it’s hard to replicate this online.

SD: As a consumer, is a personalized retail experience important? SK: True SD: Is there scope for a personalized experience in thrifting? Explain your opinion SK: It’s a bit difficult, given the quantity of clothes we sell and low

profit margins. A lot of brands send personalised notes, freebies and most founders are in direct touch with customers but as brands start to scale, efficiency and speed takes over personalised experiences. We are hoping our competitive prices and ease of shopping make up for the lack of personalisation.

SD: To focus on a smaller group, do you think GenZ wants a more elevated shopping experience? (Experience like supporting small businesses, using technology to make their shopping experience easier, etc) SK: The Gen Z consumer is a lot more aware and conscious of their shopping choices and yes, the experience of buying from a small business, transparency from brands with respect to sustainability, easy digital interfaces, etc definitely go a long way. They are not just interested in the ‘what’ but the ‘how’ and ‘why’ when it comes to shopping.

SD: How do you maintain brand loyalty with GenZ? SK: As mentioned, the Gen Z consumer is more likely to stick with brands that have a mission, ethos, and perspective. We are still in the process of learning how to retain Gen Z consumers but

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creating a community seems like the key.

SD: Is India ready for technologically forward retail? Explain your answer in brief.

SK: Definitely. We are already seeing a lot of differences in scale when it comes to brick and mortar and online shopping. India is ready for a more technological leaps in the online shopping experience.

Not too sure, if it applies to brick and mortar though. For eg: say a desk with digital automated billing with no cashier at the store. For brick and mortar store shopping, Indian customers still require a lot of guidance and attention.

SD: Have you ever incorporated video calling as part of your conversation with a potential buyer? SK: No SD: If yes, did it make the shopping experience better for the consumer? If not, is it something you would try in the future? SK: We’re willing to try it and it definitely would add to the shopping experience.

SD: How do you think thrifting in India will change in five years? SK: Thrifting is yet to reach its full potential in India. Over the next

five years, expect to see various aggregator platforms that bring together the lakhs of thrift stores that have started operating in India. I also expect to see a lot more brick and mortar thrift stores across the country. It is going to permanently change the shopping behaviour of consumers of India and we should be prepared for a pre-loved fashion movement with Gen Z at its helm.

SD: On a final note, do you think NFTs and metaverse will become essential for success in future brands? SK: Yes! Much like how Insta reels are giving a boost to small businesses right now, we expect NFTs and the metaverse to be the future of digital existence and hence, the future of marketing. SD: That brings us to the end of the interview. I hope to do justice to the knowledge you’ve imparted justice through my research. Thank you for your time and valuable insight. If you have any final notes for me, leave them here. ******

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#2 Hiral Arora Simi: Thank you for taking some time out to answer these questions. I would like to start with understanding your area of expertise within fashion and retail. State your name and designation as well. Hiral: Hiral, MBA + Fashion Management (Buying/Styling/Brand Management) SD: In your opinion, how best can one identify new trends in a fastpaced industry like fashion?

HA: Looking at every collection every season you can pick up on repeating motifs. Every publication or person comes up with a different list. I have been posting mine for a year now and my list never matches another one though there is always some overlap. This trend research is not enough though since it needs to be contextualised to what people will actually wear. Tiktok and celebrities also have a major influence on this these days. SD: With the rise of social media, came a new wave of fashion critics. Does this affect the sales and public perception of brands? HA: I believe it helps in the creation and propagation of a cult such as Rick Owens and Margiela fans or those who buy archival fashion. But other than that the community isn’t big enough yet to reach the actual rich clientele that shops first-hand at luxury Maisons. However since magazines like Vogue have started to accept the critics as part of the environment, I think they might have more influence over purchase decisions in the coming years. SD: To the best of your knowledge, how do merchandisers cope with the rapid pace of change brought about by eCommerce technology, fast fashion and the shortened trend cycle? HA: In India, the trend-cycle comes a bit late (or not at all) so people have enough time to cope. In general, I believe trend pieces would be a small percentage of their total merchandise to which they can dedicate more time while their standard pieces can be planned long in advance. This would give them the necessary buffer required to turn around in time. SD: As a consumer, how is an offline experience of shopping different from an online experience? Which do you prefer?

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HA: I love offline shopping and trying on clothes - it’s a fun and relaxing activity. However, sometimes it’s hard to find everything in one place in which case online is more convenient. Especially for items that don’t have a fit issue like t-shirts or bags etc. I always do a combination of both because I am very particular about not buying anything that I don’t completely love so I need to know there’s nothing better available (or for cheaper) SD: As a consumer, is a personalized retail experience important? HA: True SD: To focus on a smaller group, Do you think GenZ wants a more elevated shopping experience? (Experience like supporting small businesses, using technology to make their shopping experience easier, etc) HA: Definitely. They seem to be okay with spending a bit extra for that as well. It gives you the satisfaction of buying luxury when the retail experience makes you feel like a valued customer. SD: How do you think one might maintain brand loyalty with GenZ? HA: By making sure their values align with the customer. Authenticity is also very important to Gen Z. Also more variety of merchandise since it seems to me that subcultures are back and everyone wants to be unique now instead of trend-focused. SD: Is India ready for technologically forward retail? Explain your answer in brief.

HA: Yes especially in the cities. Something that connects online and offline shopping to make it a seamless experience is very much needed.

SD: HERO® is an all-in-one shopping experience brand that

incorporates video calls between consumers and store associates to enhance the online shopping experience. In your opinion, can such a brand survive in India?

HA: It can be fun to try out once or twice but I don’t think that’s something I am excited about. I believe Gen Z doesn’t like to talk on the phone and would prefer texting. If they add a text option it might help them survive. SD: How do you think retail in India will change in 5 years? 160

HA: I hope it does. India is considered the next big luxury market

but because of the pandemic, we are having a slowdown. I believe more international brands will come up and Indian brands will have to keep up pace with them and hence innovate.

SD: On a final note, do you think NFTs and metaverse will become essential for success in future brands? HA: As Bernard Arnault said, right now I am interested in real clothes but I will keep a watch on that space. SD: That brings us to the end of the interview. I hope to do justice to the knowledge you’ve imparted justice through my research. Thank you for your time and valuable insight. If you have any final notes for me, leave them here.

HA: Great questions! Loved answering them it made me think a lot. All the best for your project

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#3 Aakriti Agrawal Simi: Thank you for taking some time out to answer these questions. I would like to start with understanding your area of expertise within fashion and retail. State your name and designation as well. Aakriti: (Paraphrased) An executive in luxury goods and services, a student and educator.

SD: How best can one identify new industry trends in a fast-paced industry like fashion?

AA: Trends are everywhere. There is no one sure way of identifying trends. Trends are on the runway, the streets, on Instagram, etc. Be an observer and you will start to see trends.

SD: Is the trend cycle followed by luxury consumers different from that of fast-fashion consumers? AA: Yes it is. The luxury cycle is more visionary. It is more relevant. Luxury trends are more politically, socially & economically

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conscious. They are also adaptable because of the higher price points. In luxury, they follow the mantra: if you have something to say, say it now.

SD: How is the current retail planning process different from what it was two decades ago? AA: It’s so very different. From ideation to research to procurement to feedback. The biggest difference is that merchandising is more consumer-centric now than ever before.

SD: How do merchandisers cope with the rapid pace of change brought about by eCommerce technology, fast fashion and the shortened trend cycle? AA: They have to be on their toes. Merchandising has to be

dynamic, urgent & engaging. Additionally, you have to find the key product. The range that a consumer can identify with your brand and make there your basics.

SD: As a consumer, how is an offline experience of shopping different from an online experience? Which do you prefer? AA: It’s very different but it also depends on specific situations. The key is that you cannot put the consumer in a box.

SD: It is a known fact that a personalized retail experience is important in luxury, but how do retailers achieve that online? AA: It’s about understanding your brand and your consumers and

working towards building something with your resources. Anticipate what your consumers want.

SD: To focus on a smaller group, Do you think GenZ wants a more elevated shopping experience? (Experience like supporting small businesses, using technology to make their shopping experience easier, etc) AA: Gen Z doesn’t want to be told what to do. They want choices. SD: How do you think one might maintain brand loyalty with GenZ? AA: Let them play around and we’ll figure out what they want. SD: How do you think retail in India will change in 5 years? 162

AA: That depends on retailers’ willingness to evolve & consumers’

readiness to adapt. But not that much based on history and reality.

SD: On a final note, do you think NFTs and metaverse will become essential for success in future brands? AA: They will act as an add-on but will not be essential. SD: That brings us to the end of the interview. I hope to do justice to the knowledge you’ve imparted justice through my research. Thank you for your time and valuable insight. If you have any final notes for me, leave them here.

AA: -

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#4 Desika Prabakar Simi: Thank you for taking some time out to answer these questions. I would like to start with understanding your area of expertise within fashion and retail. State your name and designation as well. Desika: Desika Prabakar, Sustainability Consultant SD: In your opinion, how best can one identify new trends in a fastpaced industry like fashion?

DP: Through social media and word of mouth new trends catch up easily. SD: How is the current retail planning process different from what it was two decades ago? DP: Definitely it has moved to eCommerce and online shopping especially due to the drain of resources of cost of storefronts. SD: To the best of your knowledge, how do merchandisers cope with the rapid pace of change brought about by eCommerce technology, fast fashion and the shortened trend cycle? DP: They create their own websites or become sellers through 163

marketplaces like Amazon.

SD: As a consumer, how is an offline experience of shopping different from an online experience? Which do you prefer? DP: I do prefer an online experience as it gives a lot of variety and economical choices. Also, easy returns are a plus SD: As a consumer, is a personalized retail experience important? DP: False SD: To focus on a smaller group, Do you think GenZ wants a more elevated shopping experience? (Experience like supporting small businesses, using technology to make their shopping experience easier, etc) DP: Elevated I would define in terms of environmentally friendly or sustainable options that give them a sense of satisfaction and comfort. For one time purpose of social pressures, they may support small business or so but comfort and quality of clothing defines their repeat rates to that brand or business. Definitely, they would like an easier experience and only online could provide that in my opinion SD: A large portion of fast-fashion consumers belong to Gen Z, why do you think that is? DP: Obviously it is to keep up with trends due to peer pressure and FOMO. But also the fact that it’s cheaper. SD: Do you think GenZ will still be consuming fast fashion in 5 years? Explain in brief

DP: It’s debatable but I feel it might start reducing but not a very considerable amount. The level of environmental awareness and built-in eco-consciousness can only significantly change fast fashion.

SD: How do you think one might maintain brand loyalty with GenZ? DP: No matter the generation it’s about quality and customer service. Easier returns and exciting offers definitely increase the rate of repeat orders. SD: Is India ready for technologically forward retail? Explain your answer in brief. 164

DP: Retail seems to be dying out in my opinion and becoming

more of a premium experience particular to weddings or so. As budgets are more in outfits for a special occasion any technology inputs here can make a profitable business. But rather than that, I feel India is not ready for technologically forward retail. Yet if issues such as colour variations and quality parameters can be provided clearly through technology integration then it would surely add value.

SD: HERO® is an all-in-one shopping experience brand that incorporates video calls between consumers and store associates to enhance the online shopping experience. In your opinion, can such a brand survive in India? DP: Video call integration of the shopping experience cannot be a USP if so then the survival of the brand is questionable. As consumers demand more detailed and human interaction-free experience in my opinion. So example of Limeroad that helps you with styling suggestions for the outfit. SD: How do you think retail in India will change in 5 years? DP: IDefinitely it would become more automated and custom

suited to consumers. AI integration and ML would provide precise accurate suggestions for the consumer. Increasing style quotient and fit.

SD: On a final note, do you think NFTs and metaverse will become essential for success in future brands?

DP: With my little knowledge I feel they might not be an essential factor for success. It definitely comes down to goals or the brand’s quality and service. Experience would be next in my opinion. SD: That brings us to the end of the interview. I hope to do justice to the knowledge you’ve imparted justice through my research. Thank you for your time and valuable insight. If you have any final notes for me, leave them here.

DP: I have given inputs based on my little knowledge. I come from a background wherein we make t-shirts from PET bottle waste. So I could not contribute much towards other segments of your question. But I wish you the best.

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#5 Gunjan Pathak Simi: Thank you for taking some time out to answer these questions. I would like to start with understanding your area of expertise within fashion and retail. State your name and designation as well. Gunjan: I was working in product development in Zara, which

means I was in charge of all the production of Zara merchandise in India which was then distributed all over.

SD: In your opinion, how best can one identify new trends in a fastpaced industry like fashion?

GP: Well, something new that has only now started to take off is trend-forecasting websites. It is also easy to spot trends by being mindful of the zeitgeist & PESTEL. SD: How is the current retail planning process different from what it was two decades ago? GP: It has completely transformed and much of it is to be credited to digitization & eCommerce. The need to be part of a social issue is also something that has developed recently.

SD: To the best of your knowledge, how do merchandisers cope with the rapid pace of change brought about by eCommerce technology, fast fashion and the shortened trend cycle? GP: It’s different for every brand. For Zara, the planning took place 36 months in advance. SD: As a consumer, how is an offline experience of shopping different from an online experience? Which do you prefer? GP: I prefer offline shopping due to the tactile experience that is a form of retail therapy for me. SD: As a consumer, is a personalized retail experience important? GP: Yes, customers like to be pampered. Especially post-covid. SD: To focus on a smaller group, Do you think GenZ wants a more elevated shopping experience? (Experience like supporting small businesses, using technology to make their shopping experience easier, etc) GP:I would say GenZ is not loyal to brands. They promote brand enthusiasm. 166

SD: How do you think one might maintain brand loyalty with GenZ? GP:For them, it’s about looking for value, if they find that in terms of money or quality they will surely stick around. SD: Is India ready for technologically forward retail? GP: Absolutely, in fact, I think India has already adapted technology a while back when mobile commerce first took off. SD: HERO® is an all-in-one shopping experience brand that incorporates video calls between consumers and store associates to enhance the online shopping experience. In your opinion, can such a brand survive in India? GP: Maybe & maybe not. There’s a big hit & miss factor because many people still want to experience an in-store shopping experience. SD: How do you think retail will change in say 5 years? GP: I would say it has already changed quite a bit. Maybe we will see more innovations in terms of technology and shopping in the metaverse. SD: On a final note, Do you think NFTs and metaverse will become essential for success in future brands? GP: Yes, for sure. I think currently the concept of the metaverse is quite abstract. It will be refined now. SD: That brings us to the end of the interview. I hope to do justice to the knowledge you’ve imparted justice through my research. Thank you for your time and valuable insight. If you have any final notes for me, leave them here. GP: Great questions, thank you.

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Focus group transcripts Simi: Hi & good morning. Thanks for agreeing to be part of my focus group. Firstly, I would like to start by giving you all a little brief about my study. My thesis is an understanding of the pillars of traditional retail and discovering the new trends to bring a brand into the 21st century. My goal is to generate insights that can effectively update merchandise planning to better appeal to the GenZ of India. I also hope to develop a new thought process to solve long-term merchandising problems and become futureready. Your contribution to this study is to help me verify my findings and understand consumer behaviour on a personal level.

SD: Firstly, what would you call a happy or successful shopping experience specifically in fashion, beauty & lifestyle? Riddhi Redkar: For her, accessibility is important. A brand can’t be

selfish. They have to cater to everybody. This answer was influenced by her own thesis, which looks at accessibility and catering to different abilities.

Prajna Gogeneni: For Prajna, the design comes first. Her main

focus is on the product, not the experience. She looks for a good design, the right fit & quality. For her, a good experience is an individual preference. Price comes 2nd on her list of priorities.

Priyuta Sodiwala: Priyuta looks for a seamless and easy process. Shopping shouldn’t feel like a chore. She also likes some assistance with shopping that can come in the form of store associates when shopping offline. Tanisha Chag: Tanisha prefers to shop offline. She likes to try the thing on and to feel the journey of shopping. However, she doesn’t mind the convenience that online shopping brings. Her purchases are also more want-based so, it should be a fun process.

SD: Next, I would like to understand which platform do you think is best for shopping. It can be a mall, an online store, a multi-designer boutique, a metaverse or a small Instagram business, there’s no limit to the platform.

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RR: For her, shopping malls are disorienting. She can feel overwhelmed with options and become wary. Similar for multidesigner boutiques. For her, it’s all about building focus. She prefers niche stores online and singular boutiques offline. PG: For Prajna, each platform has its own joys and there are no winners. She does, however, enjoy the extensive search engines on websites Amazon to easily filter her search and make the experience easier. PS: She likes the attention and personalization that comes with

smaller Instagram businesses. This is something larger platforms often miss out on. Additionally, she adds a platform like Nykaa that can find and fix a gap in a market will always have a be successful in her eyes. Before Nykaa, it wasn’t easy to find beauty products and now, she shops at Nykaa very often.

TC: For her, malls are fun. If she is confused about what to shop

she loves the adventure of going to a mall. However, she also says that when she is sure of what she needs, she goes directly to the specific brands’ store or website. No time to lose.

SD: Great, now have you noticed any unique buying traits among yourself that the older generations don’t share with you. RR: Riddhi is the lesser impulsive one in her family. She believes her buying decisions are more focused and need-based. She has also noticed that the brands she chooses to support are the ones that align their values with hers. She likes to pay more attention to the process of shopping and thus, makes each experience count.

PG: Prajna believes that time is of the essence with her. She is more impulsive, as her mother would point out periodically. She also believes that GenZ is less budget-sensitive as compared to our parents as well as more pampered with infinite choices. Finally, she points out that her mother’s closet is filled with items with significance and stories that have been there for decades. She believes GenZ uses clothes for a shorter period of time and sees them as easily disposable which isn’t something older generations do often. PS: Priyuta gets anxious with her orders, which isn’t something she shares with her mother. Her mother is patient when it comes to acquiring clothes. While Priyuta would like her Amazon boxes to

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be delivered the same day, her mother takes her time buying the fabrics, going to the tailor, waiting for a week like it’s being sewn, and so on. Priyuta also mentioned how much her mother likes to keep the options open. Something we discussed was how the older generations like to see everything and explore before they decide on what to buy. This isn’t something we think many younger generations follow, as we are known for our short attention span. Interestingly, we also discussed how GenZ’s shopping experiences are based in pop culture and media. Riddhi rightly pointed out that she wouldn’t shop from a brand that has been cancelled. The last two points Priyuta brought up were brand loyalty that is stronger in GenZ and iterating with luxury brands which also GenZ is more perceptive to.

TC: Tanisha has seen her mother be sure of herself and in the

choices, she makes when shopping. Tanisha agrees that GenZ are impatient as well as trend-focused. She has seen her mother’s style be more evergreen as opposed to following short-term trends

SD: In your opinion, is there such a thing as the perfect time to buy something? Rather have you ever felt like a brand was able to fulfil a need of yours just at the right time? RR: Riddhi shops based on occasions and tries not to indulge when she feels bored. She also brought up a brand called the vegan sole that was started by a friend and she talks about how the timing was just right as veganism as a concept was becoming increasingly mainstream. PG: While time isn’t a major factor for Prajna, she does believe in classic brand association with products. For example, her mind goes to Levi’s whenever she wants a pair of denim. However, she does point out that her shopping behaviours are a bit erratic and is often based on wants rather than needs. PS: Priyuta goes back to talking about how she only shops for occasions and not out of boredom. This isn’t her typical self, she had to restrict these behaviours. However, she is a fan of sale seasons as they can provide incentives for shopping as well as sales with a time frame as they add an urgency. Priyuta prefers to spend her buffer budget on food over apparel. TC: While Tanisha agreed about the occasion-based shopping, she also admits to shopping out of boredom. Often goes on apps when 170

she gets a sale notification, albeit often end up purchasing items, not on sale. She does believe sales notifications are an effective and attention-grabbing tool.

SD: What are your opinions on brands trying to follow an ethics code or trying to find a purpose to support? RR: Riddhi believes brands need to be authentic. As long as these social issues are a part of their brand DNA, it’s fine. She doesn’t believe a brand should capitalize on social issues by pushing its products. She says that if brands want to indulge in charity, they should just do so by giving financial aid and not depending on their consumers and sales numbers to do charity. PG: Greenwashing was a concern Prajna brought up. While she agrees, having a purpose is great, she believes it cant be the PR strategy. It has to be more nuanced. Adding layers to this purpose makes sense to her. She brought up the example of Bookmyshow & Swiggy here, adding Rs. 4 to feed a child. It’s good to have an extra option for the consumers. It’s not in the face and it’s largely effective. PS: Being a student of communication, it is easy for Priyuta to spot the difference between genuine goodwill and PR gimmicks. However, she did bring up the example of Chamaar, a brand whose story itself is about uplifting a community. Finally, she brought up a very interesting point about brands using their platform and voices to spread messages, with an example of Balenciaga’s LinkedIn profiles on women in business. TC: Tanisha largely agreed to the previous points and rightly said many smaller steps are better than one large PR disaster.

SD: On a final note, what are your thoughts on brands incorporating technology into your shopping experience? Let’s try to discuss the different types of technology like a metaverse or a chatbox on an app? TC: Tanisha started this round off by bringing up 360 viewing

of products online. She did mention how this brings another dimension to the experience and brings us closer to getting an accurate feel of the product before purchasing. She thinks smaller

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aspects of technologies like these have huge benefits and a lot of potentials.

RR: Riddhi brought up a very interesting point by giving the example of Gucci Garden. She explained how Gucci was able to give a premium experience, especially to those who aspire to invest in the brand but can’t at this point in time. Additionally, she remarked that as long as technologies don’t interrupt the shopping, they are beneficial. PG: Prajna spoke on the importance of adding layers to your

technology. She called metaverse a layer that provides added benefits but does not seem to be essential for success as of now. Then she also mentioned how important friendly customer service is to her, and brands need to find a way to bring the same organically.

PS: Priyuta brought up two main points: One is organic chatboxes

that genuinely answer questions and queries. She says that she doesn’t need the whole introductory paragraph every time, and would enjoy more candour from the brands. The next point she brought up was technology like shade detectors on Nykaa that helps make it easier to find the perfect product and increase the level of trust with a brand. Lastly, she used the example of 3D stores by Gentle Monster and their collaboration with Zeepto games to bring avatars into these 3D stores and how they elevate a shopping experience.

SD: That brings us to the end of our session today. I would like to thank you all for your openness and time. I have collected some very interesting insights and this will surely be a great addition to my study. Have a great day.

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ID LE

U G

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Bauhaus principles, much like my thesis are about accepting modern technologies and building a sensible world using those technologies. Not only is this design style very pleasing to the eye, but it also ensures the data is what is given the most emphasis. The design principles align with the principles of this study and I believe this will give my thesis book a cohesive visual appeal. Finally, this design style is considered to be timeless because of the use of basic shapes and primary colours and this will keep my ideas fresh for a long time.

FONTS HEADINGS OCTARIN

AaBbCcDdEeFfGgHhIiJjKkLl MmNnOoPpQqRrSsTtUuVv WwXxYyZz

BODY POPPINS

AaBbCcDdEeFfGgHhIiJjKkLl MmNnOoPpQqRrSsTtUuVv WwXxYyZz

These fonts have been carefully selected to be aligned with the Bauhaus style. The headings use Octarine. This is a geometric sans serif type family, which has its roots in classic Bauhaus times. It’s based on geometric grids, and its shapes are nice and soft. Nevertheless, you can see sharp elements here and there. That makes letters look friendly and strong at the same time. Octarine is a modern universal typeface designed for logotypes, posters, covers, brands, headlines, titles, and for text. Octarine comes in 8 weights/16 styles from Thin to Black, Plain and Oblique, 358 characters per font. The body uses the font family Poppins. It is a geometric sans serif typeface. Poppins is one of the newcomers to this long tradition. With support 175

for the Devanagari and Latin writing systems, it is an internationalist take on the genre. Each letterform is nearly monolinear, with optical corrections applied to stroke joints were necessary to maintain an even typographic colour. The Devanagari base character height and the Latin ascender height are equal; Latin capital letters are shorter than the Devanagari characters, and the Latin x-height is set rather high. The Devanagari is designed by Ninad Kale. The Latin is by Jonny Pinhorn.

MOODBOARD

A few words that can describe my mood board are geometric, classic, modern, trans-seasonal, and structured. 176

COLOURS

As visualized through my mood board, the colours I have used are primary in nature. To maintain a timeless design, I have used neutral colours like cream, black & red for over 60% of the composition. The other colours are used as accents to add humour and life to the book.

ELEMENTS OF DESIGN

The design elements I used were directly inspired by the Bauhaus school of design. They are geometric, abstract and decorative. 177

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The End. 179