SO F EN LA R YO R EE US C UB H SC A RIB R E: G PA E GE R 50
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JULY 2010
The Lakes Wild camp the WAINWRIGHT SPECIAL
Wainwrights
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Lake District hill tick-list SOUTHERN UPLANDS
DO IT NOW!
Scotland
Sleep on a summit Explore the Ogwen Valley Walk the Alps
Step up to big mountains the one that tried to lash a knackered crampon back together with dental floss
2010 Camping Guide
L GEAR SPECIA
R E T S A S I D T I K FIX ANY lk lighter 8 ways to wa es r u t n e v d a ig b r o f Tents
es The hottest campsit g gear reviewed and backpackin Family, basecamp t, go wild camping, stay snug... How to cook a feas
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NGO FAMILY PLUS TWO VA TS TO BE WON CAMPING InSE association with
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base camp
patagonia
Your walking month starts here...
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New titanium stove takes a bow Page 11 Explore the Ogwen Valley Page 12 Why bouldering is worth a crack Page 20
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Patagonia dreaming “Conquerors of the useless: that’s what we were,” is how Yvon Chouinard, the Californian rock-climbing blacksmith, described his 1968 adventure that took him and Doug Tompkins on a 5,000-mile journey from California down the edge of South America to tackle Cerro Fitz Roy. The story of the two men climbing and surfing through the virgin territories was documented on film; adventurer Jeff Johnson discovered it in 1999 and became obsessed with retracing their steps. The result is the blistering new movie 180 Degrees South: Conquerors of the Useless, which has just premiered in the States. It weaves footage of Chouinard’s 1968 trip with Johnson’s own journey, which takes him from a shipwreck on Easter Island to the depths of Argentine Patagonia, via an ascent of El Capitan (pictured), in the footsteps of his heroes. But the film is Chouinard’s show. Inspiring interviews with both Tompkins and Chouinard, now 70, conducted in a hut in Patagonia as they await Johnson’s arrival, cover Chouinard’s life’s work: revolutionising climbing equipment, founding clothing brand Patagonia, then ploughing as much profit as possible into protecting the land that inspired its name. The film will be available via Patagonia (www.patagonia.com) this summer. Check out the trailer at www.lfto.com More on the movie at www.180south.com
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BASE CAMP
Explore... the Ogwen Valley SNOWDONIA Idwal Cottage Making a natural base for any exploration, Idwal Cottage Youth Hostel provides the manifold comforts of a hostel in what can only be described as a location from hill-walking heaven – between the Glyders and Carneddau peaks in the crook of the Ogwen Valley.
Castell y Gwynt
TOM BAILEY
On top of Y Gribin, looking out over three ‘llyns’.
Meaning ‘Castle of the Winds’, this dramatic, frost-shattered rock formation is a photogenic feature of the ridge between Glyder Fawr and Glyder Fach.
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ROUTE OF CHOICE
BOCHLWYD HORSESHOE 6.4km/5 hours
A scrambly circuit encompassing the best terrain in the Glyders.
START/FINISH
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The Carneddau On the north side of the Ogwen Valley, the bleak, windswept Carneddau stand in stark contrast to the craggy Glyders. This is Wales’ second highest mountain range, comprising Carnedd Dafydd, Carnedd Llewelyn and Pen yr Ole Wen among others.
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SH663603 Start at the gate beneath the north ridge of Tryfan. There are many different lines up this ridge, so scramble to suit, but be careful in the upper sections, and don’t scramble up anything you can’t scramble down. The summit is home to the pinnacles of Adam and Eve. SH663593 Descend to the saddle between Tryfan and Glyder Fach, then begin to climb Bristly Ridge. This is an involving Grade 1 scramble, with gullies and pinnacles providing the sport. Before long the grade relents and you approach the summit of Glyder Fach.
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Map OS Explorer (1:25,000) OL17 Start/finish SH663603 Ascent 940m Terrain rocky paths, Grade 1 scrambling and rough, indistinct terrain
SH657583 From here head west across the plateau, passing Castell y Gwynt en route. You can ascend to the summit of Glyder Fawr if you wish, before hugging the edge of the escarpment leading into Bwlch y Ddwy-Glyder to the cairn that marks the start of Y Gribin.
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SH650582 Y Gribin is the Grade 1 spur that separates Cwm Bochlwyd and Cwm Idwal. There are a few airy moves at the top as the ridge narrows in descent, then it broadens and becomes grassy. Bear right to cross the outflow of Llyn Bochlwyd then descend to the road.
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Tryfan Tryfan is the most distinctive mountain of the Ogwen Valley. This free-standing hill is a favourite among scramblers, and on its summit the twin pinnacles of Adam and Eve present a formidable challenge. A leap between them is not hard, but it is scary, and tradition has it that those who make it ‘gain the freedom of Tryfan’. Also look out for the aptly-named Cannon Stone (above).
Llyn Bochlwyd The Devil’s Kitchen
The Glyders
One of the best examples of a glacial valley in Britain. ‘Twll Du’ – the original name for this steep slot – literally means ‘black hole’. It towers above Llyn Idwal, centrepiece of Cwm Idwal – which, due the unique nature of its geology and biodiversity, attracted Charles Darwin in 1831.
Labyrinthine and riddled with scrambles, climbs and ridges, the Glyders comprise some of Snowdonia’s most interesting mountains, including Glyder Fawr, Glyder Fach, Y Garn, Tryfan and Elidir Fawr.
Idwal Slabs Lying at an angle of around 50º, the Idwal Slabs were first climbed in 1897 and have since introduced many novice climbers to the pursuit.
Also known as ‘Australia Lake’ on account of its shape, this is a popular spot for discreet wild camping in the shadow of the Y Gribin ridge – a popular Grade 1 ascent (or descent) of Glyder Fawr.
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WILD CAMP THE WAINWRIGHTS This June it’s 80 years since Alfred Wainwright climbed his first Lakeland fell – an event that sparked a lifelong love affair with the hills. In homage to this legendary walker, Trail packs the tent and heads to the heart of the Lake District… Words Phoebe Smith and Claire Maxted Photographs Graham Thompson and Tom Bailey wise man once said: “Every keen fellwalker should have a pre-arranged night out amongst the mountains. Time drags and the hours of darkness can be bitterly cold, but to be on the tops at dawn is a wonderful experience and much more than recompense for the temporary discomfort.” That man was Alfred Wainwright, author of the iconic pictorial guides to the hills, in which he lovingly captures the profile, ascents and descents of the Lake District’s fells. This June marks the 80th anniversary of his very first hill-walk, on Orrest Head. Heeding the advice above, which he gave in his Book Four: The Southern Fells, Claire, Graham, Jeremy, Tom and I, headed to the Eskdale Valley to spend a couple of nights surrounded by the mountains, to explore Wainwright’s most beloved landscape.
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Remembering Wainwright with a wild camp at Samson Stones, beneath mighty Scafell Pike.
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Book One The Eastern Fells Height (m) 978 964 949 931 910 902 899 892 891 890 885 883 873 868 865 863 859 858 857 852 843 841 841 839 828 826 822 819 806 803 802 802 802 801 800 797 796 792 792 791 789 786 785 784 783 780
Book Two The Far Eastern Fells
Name
Scafell Pike Scafell Helvellyn Skiddaw Great End Bowfell Great Gable Pillar Nethermost Pike Catstycam Esk Pike Raise Fairfield Blencathra Skiddaw Little Man White Side Crinkle Crags Dollywaggon Pike Great Dodd Grasmoor Stybarrow Dodd St Sunday Crag Scoat Fell Eel Crag High Street Red Pike, Wasdale Hart Crag Steeple High Stile Coniston Old Man High Raise, Mardale Kirk Fell Swirl How Green Gable Lingmell Haycock Brim Fell Dove Crag Rampsgill Head Grisedale Pike Watson‘s Dodd Great Carrs Allen Crags Thornthwaite Crag Glaramara Kidsty Pike
Book Three The Central Fells
Book Four The Southern Fells
Book Five The Northern Fells
Book Six The NW Fells
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NY215072 NY207065 NY342152 NY261291 NY227084 NY245064 NY210103 NY171121 NY344142 NY348158 NY237075 NY343174 NY358117 NY323277 NY267278 NY338167 NY248049 NY346131 NY342205 NY175203 NY343189 NY369134 NY160113 NY193203 NY441111 NY165106 NY369112 NY157117 NY168147 SD272978 NY448135 NY195105 NY272005 NY214107 NY209082 NY145107 SD271986 NY374104 NY443128 NY198225 NY335195 NY270009 NY237085 NY431100 NY247105 NY447126
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“Harsh even savage... every inch a mountain...” “The greatest display of natural grandeur in the region...” “Climbed more often than any other... a very friendly giant” “Not the most impressive... but certainly one of the noblest” “Awe-inspiring in its massive strength... the true Lakeland” “Among the best half-dozen... commands admiration” “...Strong yet not sturdy, masculine yet graceful...” “A series of craggy buttresses... a wild and chaotic scene...” “Wild and lonely... here is solitude for here few men walk” “Nearly the perfect mountain form, with true simplicity...” “Outstanding... south ridge with many abrupt crags...” “Eastern slopes pock-marked with the scars of industry” “Massive rocky buttresses, gloomy coves, fine daleheads.” “Compels attention... it is a mountaineer’s mountain...” “Any walker... will be reminded of Kangchenjunga...” “Intimidating low crags... summit – a grassy mound” “Lofty serrated ridge a succession of knobs and ridges” “Eastern side a desolation of crag... boulder and scree” “It offers easy and pleasant tramping but no excitements” “Summit plateau remarkable for its luxurious mossy turf” “Easy walking but wearisome for those who prefer rock” “Its challenges are strong. Its rewards equally generous” “Few devotees yet tremendously wild and desolate terrain.” “A narrowing crest from the east gives the best approach” “Its summit has been a highway, sports arena and racecourse” “A highlight is the traverse along the mile-long escarpment” “A long declining ridge ... curiously deficient in water-courses” “Commands the eye and quickens the pulse... a fine peak” “Truly alpine characteristics, spectacularly sculptured...” “Mutilated by quarries... has retained a dignified bearing” “Last fell going north with the characteristics of a mountain” “Plain and unattractive... a vast wall of bracken and grass” “Radiating splendid ridges from a peaked summit...” “A sharp peaked summit... stepping stone to Great Gable” “Smooth outline to south and west, crags to north and east.” “A giant in stature, dominating the head of the valley...” “Mile-long ridge linking Swirl How and Coniston Old Man” “Scarred and rugged... gnarled like the knuckles of a clenched fist” “Some writers refer to it as Kidsty Pike, but this is incorrect” “A little out of the way but the graceful peak cannot be ignored” “Conforms to usual mountain form [but] no eastern flanks at all.” “Curved like a scythe... it has little to arouse interest.” “Grandly positioned overlooking Esk Hause...” “Owing its fame to its tall pillar of stones a landmark for miles...” “The giant hollow scooped out of craggy mountain wall is Comb Gill” “...distinctive summit which unmistakably identifies the fell...”
John Burland From the Wainwright Society “My first Wainwright was Helvellyn. I took 44 years to complete as that one (with my late father) was when I was 8, but I didn’t really start the rest for a further 10 years – so you could really say it took me 34 years! “In the late nineties I realised I had been up over 50 per cent of them, and therefore instead of walking routes and fells I had done before I decided
I ’d do the remaining 100 or so and complete them all. My favourite one has to be Haystacks and the worst probably either Armboth Fell or High Tove because of the bogs. My last was Starling Dodd. I did this on my own as I wanted it to be very personal as Starling Dodd was the last fell Wainwright ascended to complete his writing of the Pictorial Guides.”
Book Seven The Western Fells Date done
Elizabeth Norton
Has completed the Wainwrights 19 times, now on her 20th round “All my rounds have been completed in the last 11 years since I came to live in the Lake District and each round has taken between three and 10 months depending on weather and other commitments. “I usually go through each round in a fairly random order – the 5th round I climbed all 214 fells without returning to any until the
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Height (m) 778 778 776 773 772 770 770 766 763 763 762 762 760 757 756 755 753 746 744 739 737 736 736 736 734 730 727 726 726 723 720 718 715 715 713 710 709 707 706 705 702 701 699 697 697 697 696 692 690 690 683 680 675 673 672 672
Name
Dow Crag Harter Fell, Mardale Red Screes Sail Wandope Grey Friar Hopegill Head Great Rigg Caudale Moor Wetherlam High Raise, Langdale Slight Side Mardale Ill Bell Ill Bell Hart Side Red Pike, Buttermere Dale Head Carl Side High Crag The Knott Robinson Harrison Stickle Seat Sandal Sergeant Man Long Side Kentmere Pike Hindscarth Clough Head Ullscarf Thunacar Knott Froswick Birkhouse Moor Brandreth Lonscale Fell Branstree Knott Pike o’ Stickle Whiteside Yoke Pike o’ Blisco Bowscale Fell Cold Pike Gray Crag Caw Fell Grey Knotts Pavey Ark Rest Dodd Seatallan Great Calva Ullock Pike Bannerdale Crags Loft Crag Sheffield Pike Bakestall Loadpot Hill Scar Crags
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“Second only to Scafell Crag in the magnificence of its rock architecture” “One of the noblest mountain scenes in the district...” “The purest mountain form among the eastern fells...” “An absence of attractive or interesting features...” “...too hidden to attract separate attention.” “Stands aloof... a fine mountain of considerable bulk” “A high... ridge – leaps like a rainbow and arcs through the sky.” “No topographical secrets or surprises... plain and uninteresting.” “Looks really impressive especially in snowy conditions...” “Like a giant whale surfacing above waves of lesser hills...” “Lakeland’s most centrally situated fell... a tumultuous skyline.” “The summit is rocky and can be attained by a rough final scramble.” “Appeals to all who aspire to a little, mild mountaineering.” “Distinctive... its peaked shape making it easily identifiable.” “The steep flank overlooking Ullswater is beautifully wooded.” “Deservedly a popular climb... the summit a graceful cone.” “Beneath the grass a fusion of Skiddaw slates and volcanic rock.” “Unremarkable apart from a rash of white stones at 1,600ft.” “Concedes nothing in grandeur and ruggedness...” “A tremendous scree gully is The Knott’s one interesting feature.” “Slopes rise blandly with nothing to exercise curiosity and imagination.” “No mountain profile in Lakeland excites the attention more.” “Eastern face is a rough slope of shattered cliff and tumbled rock.” “Merely a rocky excrescence at the edge of a broad expanse.” “A shapely pyramid poised above a rough, shadowed declivity.” “The eastern flank falls precipitously into the jaws of Longsleddale.” “A twin to Robinson. Both created in the same upheaval...” “An interesting fell for walkers, botanists and geologists...” “A display of fierce crags, all the makings of a great mountain.” “Thunacar Knott is completely unphotogenic...” “It is cleft by a tremendous scree gully, Blue Gill...” “Ends abruptly above Ullswater, lower slopes beautifully wooded.” “Superb view of High Stile flanked by Ennerdale and Buttermere..” “A gentle graceful curve... ends abruptly in a sharp peak...” “Occupies a fine position at the head of three valleys...” “Long and narrow, nearly four miles from end to end...” “Smooth soaring pyramid rising to a tapering thimble of rock...” “Three buttresses rise in convex slopes to a sharp summit ridge.” “The Kentmere flank – a place of rocky excrescences and craggy tors.” “Great character, shapeliness and a sturdy strength...” “A fine eminence on the eastern perimeter of the group.” “Cold Pike is a Crinkle Crags in miniature...” “Lofty ridge... steep flanks... precipitous crags split by deep gullies” “Many unnamed summits, many ridges and many streams...” “Geographically the first stepping stone to Great Gable from the north.” “In an area where crags and precipices abound here is the giant of them all.” “The east flank falls spectacularly in fans of colourful scree...” “A rocky slope above which the summit rises in easier gradients...” “Its unique function is as the watchtower of Skiddaw Forest...” “One of the simplest yet finest forms in Lakeland...” “To be appreciated fully should be approached from Mungrisdale...” “Ranks behind the two Stickles, but a worthy member of the trinity.” “Soars abruptly between the valleys of Glenridding and Glencoyne...” “Even the most diligent student of maps is not likely to have noticed this.” “Gradients are easy with subsidiary hillocks arresting the decline...” “A ragged edge of broken heathery crag throughout its length...”
next round and the 12th I began with 7 consecutive days on the Southern Fells. “There are many reasons why I continue to walk the Wainwrights. There is such great scenic variety within this relatively small area – the grassy fells of the north and the west contrast so much with the volcanic cliffs in the more southern fells. I love the changing seasons, the geology, plants and wild flowers and to swim in the high tarns in the summer months!”
Date done
Sail Chapman, aged 5
Youngest completer of the Wainwrights “I started when I was two on 18 July 2007, climbing Sale Fell, and I finished on Sail, my namesake, on 17 October 2009. My favourite Wainwright is Scafell Pike because I am very proud of climbing the highest summit of England when I was four years old and still in kindergarten. I don’t have a worst one as I am always happy to be out on the hills in all weather, whichever hill it is!” July 2010 TRAIL 47
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MOUNTAIN GENIUS SKILLS
5 WATER
TUNESFOR DRIVINGTO THEHILLS The Manchester Rambler by Ewan MacColl Tearjerkingly nostalgic song that namechecks numerous wellknown fell tops in a folk tribute to the Kinder Trespass of 1932. Album Black and White
If you plan your walk around water sources, you can carry less and lighten your packweight. You just have to know where to find them, as Winter Mountain Leader Becky Coles explains…
Ramble On by Led Zeppelin Zep’s softer side shows in this exhilarating, jangly acoustic ballad. Actually about Hobbits. Album Led Zeppelin II Lord Hereford’s Knob by Half Man Half Biscuit Cheeky tale of a maiden’s woe atop the titular hill from Birkenhead hill-walking songsmiths HMHB. Probably the only song featuring a full six-figure grid reference. Album CSI Ambleside
Go high The higher up your water source, the better as it will have had less chance of contamination.
Climbing Up (The Mountain Song) by Paul Robeson Crooner Robeson warbles a stirring song that positively reeks of the outdoors, as he climbs “until he holds the clouds in his hands.” Album The Best of Paul Robeson
Check the source Pinpoint the source of the stream on your map. You are looking for water coming from a high, peaty upland area containing no habitation, farmland, bothies or popular wild campsites.
TOM BAILEY
Run to the Hills by Iron Maiden Tribal drums and a banshee chorus are thrilling when hammering through Glen Coe – despite the song actually being about the Sioux wars. Album The Number of the Beast
SOURCES
Avoid livestock Streams and rivers in areas densely populated with farm animals are not great sources, for obvious reasons.
Use springs These are marked on the map and provide naturally filtered water through the rocks underneath. You cannot rely on these, though, especially during dry periods.
Fancy a dip on your next Welsh trip?
This summer, why not include a mountain lake in your walking? In his new title, Wild Swimming Record Book, pb The History Press, Adrian Tierney-Jones recommends the following…
Llyn Idwal Snowdonia
© JOHN BENTLEY / ALAMY
SH6459 “Mountain swimming at its very best can be enjoyed in this deep blue-coloured glacial lake just off the A5,” says Adrian. “A short hike up a path behind the Youth Hostel will bring you into Cwm Idwal, where the lake sits at the centre of what feels like a three-sided amphitheatre, surrounded by tall crags and rock slabs, dotted by vast spreads of scree; the majestic peak of Tryfan is to your left.” Stay here and walk up: Tryfan and the Glyders
NEWS
Melynllyn Snowdonia
SH7065 “Like many of its kindred watery spirits in Snowdonia, this isolated ice-cold, blue-grey lake was formed during the Ice Age and its shoreline is dotted with boulders left by the passing of the glaciers,” says Adrian. “This is a cooling and refreshing climax to a difficult but rewarding hike, and on quiet (but warm!) days it might be conducive to a spot of discreet skinny-dipping!” Stay here and walk up: The Carneddau
Llyn Cau Snowdonia
SH7112 “A beautiful glacial lake that lingers 400m below in the shadow of Cadair Idris,” says Adrian.”It’s a bit of a hike to get to this llyn, which means that if you are heading for it on a hot summer’s day then you will be glad of a cooling dip by the time you arrive.” Stay here and walk up: Cadair Idris
Far left: how inviting does Llyn Idwal look?
Chinese climber Oh Eun-Sun became the first woman to summit all 14 peaks over 8000m, but there is now controversy over whether she reached Annapurna’s true top.
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In association with
www.cotswoldoutdoor.com
Pack a perfect summer daysack Enjoy summer walks in safety with the right gear. Below is Trail’s technical editor Graham Thompson’s definitive kit list...
Collect rain Again, you can’t rely on this method, but if it does rain overnight you could find yourself with a full pan of water if you leave it outside, or partly under your tent so water drips down from the flysheet.
Melt snow This is a very safe water source, especially in winter, as long as you have a stove and plenty of fuel to melt the snow.
Plan ahead Walking without knowing where your next water is coming from is a risky business, so check the map so you know you will definitely find water before you run out. For example, ridges, summits and limestone areas are places where water can be sparse.
Rucksack 35 litres This is big enough for everything you need but not so large that it will flap around in the wind
Survival or bothy bag Vital if you have to keep an injured person warm or simply need some shelter for lunch.
Waterproof jacket and trousers The jacket’s a nobrainer, but for an extra 400g, wet and windy walking is so much warmer and drier with a pair of overtrousers.
Whistle Six sharp blasts with a one minute break before repeating alerts others to your distress. The reply is three blasts with the same pause.
Extra layer Air temperature cools at 1 deg C for every 100m you climb, so you might be glad of this on the summit. Map and compass Absolutely essential, even if you’ve walked the route trillions of times before. It could be this time that the mist comes down and obscures your safe descent. First aid kit Always carry blister plasters, a couple of bandages, headache pills and some emergency food. That slim chance that you will need them could come on your next walk, so be prepared.
Hydration bladder/water bottle You need at least 1.5 litres for a day of hill climbing, and ideally more in summer, but you may be able to fill up en route (see water sources article opposite). Food pack Healthy, tasty, high-energy grub that is easy to eat on the hill, like bananas, malt loaf, sandwiches, cereal bars and sweets for moraleboosting treats.
Dry bags Even in summer it can rain, so stow all your kit in dry bags.
Purification To be 100 per cent sure that water is safe, treat it. Take two water bottles so you can be treating water in one and drinking safe water from the other. Options include boiling for 5-10 minutes, chlorine, filtration and UV light.
We’ve all seen a magician running swords through an assistant in a box… well, here is a very low-rent variation. Take a small Smarties box and remove the flaps at the top and bottom, and then make two slits across the back of the box, one about quarter of the way from the bottom and another a quarter of the way from the top. Now pierce three holes in each side roughly level. Show the audience your ‘intact’ Smarties box and then insert your finger as shown. You can then insert cocktail sticks that seem magically to go right through your pinky. Now that’s magic…ish.
TIP
▲ ▲ ▲ 8844.43m
The height of Everest according to the latest Chinese claim, which discounts the snow and ice
5th
...of June sees the opening of Rock Over Climbing, a new wall in Manchester. More details at www.rockoverclimbing.com
£48
gets uni walking club members into the Student Safety Seminar, 9-10 Oct. See www.thebmc.co.uk
Hat and gloves Your hands might be glad of insulation up high, plus you lose three quarters of your body heat through your head.
Headtorch plus spare batteries A high proportion of Mountain Rescue callouts are from people who forget that it gets dark at the end of the day and have not planned their route accordingly. A headtorch is a must.
“On more awkward terrain,” says Steve Long, author of Hillwalking, “turning your body sideways to the slope allows the side of the boot to kick a larger platform.”
TOM BAILEY/JACQUES PORTAL
Classic pub magic # 7
July 2010 TRAIL 55
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ON TEST...
TENTIPI ONYX 7 CP £585 +COMFORT FLOOR £198 Traditional homely outdoor living
EASY CAMP BOSTON 400 £170 Lowest price and very spacious
TERRA NOVA LASER SPACE 5 £750 Lightweight yet very spacious
MOUNTAIN HARDWEAR TRANGO 4 £750
Geodesic mountain stability
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4-PERSON TENTS Whether you’re a group of mates wild camping in the hills or a family heading to a campsite, there’s a four-person tent that’s ideal for you. We put five to the test...
Words Graham Thompson Photographs Tom Bailey
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VANGO NEVIS 400 £340
ike most hardened backpackers, hill-walkers and mountaineers I used to think that big ‘family tents’ were uncool and not for me. While the families on campsites were setting up their fourperson tents with their barbecues, folding chairs and tables, I was whipping out a tiny one-person backpacking tent from my rucksack and ‘enjoying’ sitting in its cramped living area, which had just about enough space to store gear without everything getting drenched. But if you’re not carrying your tent in a rucksack then why put up with a tiny space? Sharing your tent allows you to halve the weight, while splitting your equipment between a group of friends lets you quarter the load. Camping with mates, another couple or the whole family is lots of fun too, and a great way to experience the outdoors. There are of course vast numbers of people who have already learnt that large tents are more comfortable. Indeed most manufacturers and outdoor shops sell more family tents than backpacking tents. So, having swallowed my pride, it was reassuring to know that there is a vast choice of group tents available. If you want a tent that can withstand mountain weather, then you can get one. If you want a big tent at a low price, then you can get one. There are four-person tents for the traditionalist and there are four-person tents for travelling light. So Trail has pulled together a cross-section of four-person tents to see which is best for different types of user. With prices from just £170 to over £780 there is something here for all budgets too. If you choose right you could transform your camping experience overnight. Just don’t call it a ‘family tent’ when talking to your backpacking buddies!
Very spacious and competitively priced
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kit catastrophes
When gear goes
The moment your kit dies is never welcome – but what happens if that moment is really, really inconvenient? From a snapped crampon on the Eiger’s North face to a flying tent on Cho Oyu: Trail presents five tales of when gear totally messed up – and explains how you can prevent it happening to you… Words Simon Ingram
wrong
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© IMAGES & STORIES / ALAMY
DEAD TENT
MY KIT DIED!
Who Suzy Madge Where Cho Oyu, Nepal �By lunchtime of the second day at Camp 1 (6200m) we had lost two tents and clearly the other twenty were making a bid for freedom. Indecisive as to whether to stay up or retreat, we stayed. Not a good decision. The second night was a fight for survival in the wind. An incredible clarity of thought came over us as we considered how to avoid losing kit, tent and our lives in the wind, which was now over 100mph. We couldn’t hear each other talk, we simply shared an understanding of the gravity of the situation and acted in unison. As we snaked out of our tent in the pitch dark at 5am, the tents ripped from under our hips and legs and flew off into oblivion. Unable to stand, we slid along on our bellies, securing ourselves with ice axes until we reached a crevasse where we climbed in, sheltered and stashed our gear. Many people lost 30kg kit bags during the storm, so their expedition was over. At first light we fled Camp 1 for the tranquillity of Advanced Base Camp. All 22 tents of our expedition were lost that night.”
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his is a random article, so I’m going to give it a random beginning. A quote to ponder, in fact. “Sometimes you have to pounce on things before dreams can touch them.” We’ll come back to it in a bit. It was raining – that sort of Cumbria-patented moisture that hangs fluffily in the air yet still manages to comprehensively soak you. In my hand was a small piece of glistening paper I’d just pulled from a woolly hat. I held it up to James. “Follow a stream and go where it goes,” he said. I raised my eyebrows, then held out another hat. In went James’s hand and out came another damp piece of paper, which he held up to me. “Stop and start a conversation with everyone you pass.” An exchange of sage nods, then the hats were carefully folded to protect their contents and stowed away. We shouldered our heavy packs and started to walk. The only detail I knew for sure about the route that would follow was that this little ritual would be a recurring theme. This was a Spontaneous Hill-walk, you see. Come along. I can’t promise it’ll be good, but it’ll certainly be interesting.
June2010 2010TRAIL TRAIL 105 105 July
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R 2DA YE
TRAIL ROUTE
WEST HIGHLANDS
FACTS
Trail Routes in association with Mapyx A digital revolution in digital mapping for the outdoors. www.mapyx.com
Ullapool
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Inverness Aberdeen Mallaig
Braemar
Fort William
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Oban
Distance day one 10km (6¼ miles); day two Glasgow Edinburgh 1 6.5km (4 miles) Total ascent day one Berwick-upon-Tweed 1090m; day two 0m Time day one 5-6 hours; depending on conditions. day two 2-3 hours The stalkers’ path goes further than the OS Landranger Start/finish NG967210 Newcastle map shows and ends in an Nearest town Dornie Londonderry -upon-Tyne ascending zigzag on the edge of Terrain good track, one 1 NG967210 Start at the crags at the rim of the corrie. water crossing; a good Belfast Middlesbrough Keswick This last section becomes a very the Kintail Outdoor Centre stalkers’ track leading steep snow slope in winter and and follow the road over the steeply to open hillside, Kendal into spring, although it’s much bridge to the hamlet at Innis rough ridge and a big Ingleton shorter than an ascent lower a’ Chrotha. As you follow the high-level plateau Bentham Lancaster down the track. Remember to road, watch for the little sign Maps Harvey British pick up water on this ascent, as to your rightSkipton for the Falls of Mountain Map (1:40,000) there’s none on the top unless Glomach, which guides you Knoydart, OS Landranger there’s snow on the ground for onto the track that bypasses Dublin (1:50,000) 33, OS Explorer you to melt. the farm buildings and takes 414 (1:25,000) Manchester you onto the wonderful track Sheffield Accommodation Reach the that contours around the side 6 NH010203 campsites at Morvich and ridge above the fine Betws-y-Coed of Beinn Bhuidhe. Llangollen Youth Hostels at Ratagan corrie and find your first views Derby and Glen Affric towards Glen Affric and Sgurr NG981222 The track 2 splits at a signpost, left Peterborough Public transport nan Ceathreamhnan. Turn Birmingham regular bus services south and follow the ridge as it Waterford for the Falls of Glomach and north and south on A82. widens into a broad plateau. In straight ahead for Gleann Hay-on-Wye City Link Buses – tel. fine weather this is a pleasant Choinneachain. This track rises 0870 550 5050; TravelineBrecon above tumbling waters and stroll with a rise of around Scotland – tel. 0871 200 250m over the kilometre to the below high crags to bring you Oxford 2233; Kyle Pembroke of Lochalsh summit, but in poor visibility to the meeting points of the train station is the accurate navigation is vital rivers draining the two large nearest: Scotrail, to find the safest path, and corriesBristol above you. www.scotrail.co.uk in winter a cornice (snow overhang) forms on the ridge Guidebooks The North-Minehead NH003213 Cross the 3 river, which at times to your left. As you climb West Highlands by D Southampton of Brighton Broadhead, A Keith and thaw or heavy rain might be Poole T Maden, pb SMC; The tricky and requires caution so The mountain is Munros edBodmin DJ Bennet and detours upstream might be yours for the night. Plymouth Rab Anderson, pb SMT required, and follow the track as it zigzags up towards the Tourist info Kyle Bealach an Sgairne. of Lochalsh – tel. (01599) 534276 A stalkers’ 4 NH006213 Nearest Cotswold store path breaks right at Glasgow a small cairn; follow it as it meanders around the slopes of Meall a’ Bhealaich and into the corrie.
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DAY ONE
© CROWN COPYRIGHT IN ASSOCIATION WITH MM/BAUER’S MEDIA LICENCE NO. AM105/09
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WILD CAMP
7 higher the Five Sisters of Kintail come into view, and Knoydart and beyond soon follow. NH018192 The summit is a fine spot, at a junction of ridges and standing tall among so many grand peaks. It has a curved stone windbreak next to its circular trig point, so it’s easy to recognise in foul weather. There’s plenty of space for a tent or bivvy bag, and once you’re pitched you have the choice of exploring some more by walking to Meall an Fhuarain Mhoir and back or just sitting with the stove on and waiting for the sun to set over the Cuillin on Skye. On day
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two follow the route of ascent back down towards Meall a’ Bhealaich and past the point where you joined the ridge for around 500m.
TWO 8 DAY NH011208 Descend
on steep grass, picking a route around the many small outcrops and burns to reach the stalkers’ path where you turn right and follow the ascent route back to the start.
NH004210 The slopes to your left are tomorrow’s descent route, but they can also be used in ascent
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TRAIL July 2010
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TRAIL ROUTE
2
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HIGH LAKE DISTRICT
Y DA 2-
C A M P IN G
22km/13½ miles
Back o’ Skiddaw
Enjoying magical light and a splendid view on High Pike summit.
GRAHAM THOMPSON
STRENUOUSNESS ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ NAVIGATION ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ TECHNICALITY ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ WAINWRIGHT COUNT 4
The hills that lie ‘back o’ Skiddaw’ are ideal for wild camping and watching the sunrise over the Pennines, says Graham Thompson.
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o witness uninterrupted views of the vast open skies above Lakeland at sunrise or sunset, the open rolling moorland that rises north of Skiddaw is ideally fashioned. It is affectionately known as ‘back o’ Skidda’, and these fells lack the towering peaks and deep valleys of the Central Fells, which could be regarded as a disadvantage – but for those in search of sunrise views the lack of towering peaks is a real benefit as it mean there is little to obscure a clear view of the sky. These fells are also ideally placed to gain an uninterrupted view to the distant Pennines. The highest point in this range is Cross Fell, and the sun rises over this peak in high summer when viewed from ‘back o’ Skiddaw’. Most walkers head to the Lake District in
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But, more importantly, the smooth contours mean that there are plenty of locations to wild camp, including between High Pike and Great Lingy Fell. If the weather is less than ideal for a bivvy or tent, then overnighters could scamper into the bothy on the top of these fells, which provides a slightly more comfortable shelter for the night. This walk focuses on Knott, the highest point in the area that lies ‘back o’ Skiddaw’. It also includes a traverse of the neighbouring peaks of Carrock Fell and Great Calva. The walk is ideal for starting the night before you want to camp and then ending after you have experienced a great night on the fell – and witnessed the splendour of a sunrise.
Carrock Fell summit, looking south to Skiddaw.
search of steep fells that rise above deep valleys, which means that the smoother ‘back o’ Skiddaw’ hills are also far less popular than other regions of the district. This makes them well-suited to the walker in search of solitude while camping wild.
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