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The LIFESTYLE magazine devoted to Swiss Masters of excellence
MAGAZINE
Summer07 FREE PRESS
w w w. s w i s s m a d e m a g a z i n e . c o m
PARIS - LONDON - MILANO - ROMA - FIRENZE NEW YORK - LOS ANGELES - TOKYO - OSAKA - TAIPEI - HONG KONG WWW.VERSACEPRECIOUSITEMS.COM
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EDITORIAL
Dear readers, Spring always brings a new breeze, new colors and fresh ideas. Flowers and love blossom, introducing a new summertime, the favorite season for many of us. This past April, the team of SwissMade Magazine spent two full weeks in Basel and Geneva for the two world-leading watch and jewelry shows: Baselworld and SIHH. Those two weeks were filled with meetings and interviews with the best watchmakers to get insights and in-depth looks at what this luxury world has to offer and be able to provide you with the very latest on novelties, innovations and trends. Once again, the dynamism displayed by the watchmaking industry and the rich variety of models showcased are sure to accommodate the tastes of the more discriminating consumer, set new trends and produce a record year for the industry.
With a clear focus on Swiss watchmaking, for which the United States represents the biggest export market, our magazine aims to enrich the perceived “Swiss Made” value by providing a wider and culturally relevant range of topics. With our mission of creating a “cultural bridge” between Switzerland and the United States, in this issue we introduce topics that show the historic and emerging “bridges” between the two countries, such as the America’s Cup, the 80th anniversary of Charles Lindbergh’s enterprise and ArtBasel, the world’s leading art market fair. Our editorial approach aims to present watches and luxury apparel in an enjoyable way, integrating them in a lifestyle context. Whether classic, sporty, elegant, fashionable, trendy, vintage or a mixture of all, watches and jewelry are luxury items that are part of a lifestyle image. As by the term itself, lifestyle is not limited to a product, nor does a product define a lifestyle. Indeed, a lifestyle is a combination of elements that in their ensemble can at times become “mainstream trends.” Embracing a lifestyle is in a way defining one’s own personality. Accessories are the details that differentiate and better communicate our attitude, experience and knowledge. The accessory must fit in a context and match one’s interests: music, art, gastronomy, cars, design, travel, etc. For your readings, we are pleased to introduce you to the summer issue of SwissMade Magazine, which also will be presented at the JCK Show in Las Vegas, the main date on the calendar for the watchmaking sector in North America. Enjoy the issue, and see you again in September!
Massimiliano Pantieri
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I N D E X
flyin’ high
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AMERICA’S CUP
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FOLIES TECHNIQUES
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the Butterfly effect
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SUMMER SIZZLE
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the Lone Eagle
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Art 38 Basel
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deconstructing IRENE
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DECÒ STYLE
EVENTS 10
charme vs design 70
GAMBLING 78
JAEGER LECOULTRE Master Eight Days Perpetual Squelette
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Executive Board Massimiliano Pantieri Simone Sanfratello Lilli Bertoni Editor Massimiliano Pantieri Art Director Lilli Bertoni Creative Director Simone Sanfratello Contributors Susan Robinson Alexis Schuh Noah Joseph Sherry Williams Alice Visin Steven Gregg Copy Editors Susan Robinson Sheila Monty Annamaria Crapa Layout and Design Lillisimone Graphic Designer Anna Scaccabarozzi Printing Arti Grafiche Bertoni Verderio Inf. (LC) Italy
Get your FREE subscription on www.swissmademagazine.com All the published material has been provided by the mentioned brands. Therefore, SwissMade Magazine cannot be responsible for copyright issues and assumes no responsility on inaccurate information or changes in the product displayed. Reproduction or use of the content in whole or in part without the written permission of the publisher is strictly prohibited.
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Publisher address: SwissMade Magazine Via Taiada 50 6517 Arbedo (TI) Switzerland Contacts editor@swissmademagazine.com advertising@swissmademagazine.com SwissMade Magazine is a publication of: FLOOR3 Industries sagl
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HAUTE JOAILLERIE
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DREAM LUXURY
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FRESH BEAUTY
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speed MACHINES
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SWISSDESIGN
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The FREITAG BROS
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Haute Ecriture
LEON HATOT Zelia Bamboo
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INDUSTRY
flyin’ high In nature, spring is the season of blossoms. For the watch industry worldwide, spring is synonymous with Basel and Geneva, or Baselworld and the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie, the two most important keynote events on the calendar, where new trends are played out and talent is revealed. Drawing distributors and retailers from five continents to the home of the world’s watch industry, the two shows are vital to the profession, offering a unique opportunity for exhibitors to reveal their latest wonders and accounting for up to threequarters of annual sales for many exhibiting brands. The watchmaking industry proved once again a glittering showcase of products, indicating the sector’s extremely good health. Watch firms once again have demonstrated an incredible inventiveness and vigor, unveiling beautiful timepieces that are perfect matches to knowledgeable consumers worldwide, and anticipating another record year in the annuals of watchmaking. Baselworld, a mecca for the industry, is the biggest event of its kind in the world. Mirroring overall growth in the branch, a record number of 101,700 visitors from over 100 countries delighted the more than 2,100 exhibitors at this year’s Baselworld, confirming its international reputation as the leading trade show for the watch and jewelry sector. “BaselWorld is a very successful show with an impressive worldwide presence. It is an essential date in the calendar,” commented Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, co-president of Chopard. 10
Jacques J. Duchêne, president of the Exhibitors’ Committee, made the following statement at the close of the show: “We take pleasure in reporting that the atmosphere has been excellent. As exhibitors (Rolex), we are extremely pleased and have achieved very positive sales. In view of the annual improvement in the quality at Baselworld, I am thrilled to be able to repeat my previous statement: It is an honor for us to exhibit in Basel.” The organizers of Baselworld can look to the future with optimism. One thing is clear for the show director, Sylvie Ritter: “This was the best Baselworld ever. Moving onwards, we will devote our efforts to sustaining this achievement and developing our success even further. This show will remain the key and most prestigious event for the international watch and jewelry industry.” Nurturing an intimate atmosphere exclusively reserved for haute horlogerie, the 17th edition of the SIHH also ended on a more than positive note. A showcase for technological innovation and creativity, the SIHH 2007 trained the spotlight on mechanical watches, with particular emphasis on the chronograph, and on precious and jeweled watches, illustrated and legitimated by “Fine Watches, a Homage to Women,” the 13th exhibition to be staged at the SIHH. Indeed, women’s watches are emerging as an increasingly significant reference within haute horlogerie.
Silvie Ritter, Show Director of Baselworld
Driven by the prestige timepieces that show no signs of losing their appeal, the latest export figures reported by the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry (FH) ensures that 2007 is yet another great year, which would set a record for the sector ... six months in advance!
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Kevin Spacey on stage for IWC
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EVENTS
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IWC Schaffhausen celebrated its Da Vinci models with a glamorous event in front of an audience of illustrious international guests. The high spot of the gala evening, on the occasion of the SIHH Watch Fair in Geneva, was provided by Academy Award-winning actor Kevin Spacey, who appeared as a star guest in a self-produced stage play. Although the launch of the latest Da Vinci watches was the incentive for the magnificent “Serata di Leonardo� from IWC, stars of an entirely different kind were in the spotlight at the start of this glittering event. Oscar winner Kate Blanchett and the actors Jean Reno and Matthew Modine headed the cohort of actors on the
red carpet, flanked by Asian stars Sanada Hiroyuki and Chang Cheng. Sporting legends like Boris Becker and Alberto Tomba also graced the “Serata di Leonardo” with their presence. The real high point of the evening was the stage play, “Leo and Lisa”, produced especially for IWC and exclusively for this event by Oscar winner Kevin Spacey. In spite of his current guest appearance on Broadway in Eugene O’Neill’s “A Moon for the Misbegotten”, Spacey also took it upon himself to play the leading role in this unique performance. As a dominant, boorish and autocratic inquisitor, he addressed the question of Mona Lisa’s smile. Thandie Newton, known from “Mission: Impossible 2”, was outstanding in the leading female role of Lisa. Elliot Cowan,
who played the role of Leo, appeared in Oliver Stone’s historical epic, “Alexander”. The play ran for around 15-minutes, and the guests were invited into an amphitheatre built especially for this event, where “Leo and Lisa” had its celebrated premiere. Spacey’s theatre performance on this evening was recorded by a top-class film crew. To make this world premiere accessible to a wide public, the lavish production will go online as a short film on the IWC Web site. The live appearance by disco icons Chic, who achieved worldwide fame with their hit “Le Freak” in the 1970s, set an exuberant party mood. Pictures courtesy of IWC.
CHOPARD AT ACADEMY AWARDS 07 On Sunday, February 25, 2007 Sir Elton John and David Furnish hosted the 15th annual Elton John AIDS Foundation (EJAF) Academy Awards Viewing Party at the Pacific Design Center in Los Angeles. The Elton John AIDS Foundation annual gala is the leading fundraising event in Hollywood on Oscar night. Over the past 14 years the party has raised over $125 million for EJAF, which sees Chopard has a loyal and proud co-sponsor. The 15th anniversary of this party, with significant live auction and enhanced musical performance, brought out some of the biggest and hottest celebrities from the entertainment community. Grammy nominated artist James Blunt, the first British artist to top the American singles chart in nearly a decade with his smash hit single “You’re Beautiful”, performed at the party to celebrate the Academy Awards. 6
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TOP RIGHT: Helen Mirren (Oscar Winner 2007), Ziyi Zhang, Naomi Watts and Penelope Cruz, all wearing Chopard jewelry LEFT: 1. Sean “P.Diddy” Combs, Sir Elton John, James Blunt and Sheryl Crow 2. Dita von Teese 3. Sir Elton John performing 4. Petra Nemcova and James Blunt 5. Ziyi Zhang 6. Nathalie Cole, Zac Posen and Sharon Stone
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EVENTS
HARRY WINSTON On the occasion of the 2007 Basel Watch and Jewelry show, Harry Winston hosted a series of cocktails for its customers under the theme Red Carpet. The event offered the perfect platform to unveil Duchesse and Ice Floe, two unique timepieces set respectively with 61 and 59 carats of white diamonds.
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TOKYO BOUTIQUE OPENING IN SEPTEMBER G E N E VA - G S TA A D - H O N G K O N G - K U WA I T - L O N D O N - M O S C O W M Y K O N O S - N E W Y O R K - PA R I S - P O RT O C E R V O - R O M E - S T M O R I T Z
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AMERICA’S CUP VALENCIA 2007
HAUTE MARINE HORLOGERIE Swiss brands Audemars Piguet, Girard-Perregaux, Omega, TAG Heuer and Hublot jump on board to share in the time honored tradition. by Alexis Schuh
Since the initial competition in 1851, the America’s Cup has hailed as the preeminent regatta for the elite competitors of sport sailing. This summer, participants will again take to the seas, this time in Valencia, Spain, and compete for the 32nd America’s Cup trophy. The world renowned regatta features the longest running international trophy, the reward for a best of nine match race series. The America’s Cup was so named after the America, a schooner that scored the very first win in the 156 year old series. Over one hundred years and twenty-five challenges
after the America victory was achieved by a twenty minute difference, the 1983 Australian challenging team was deemed victorious. Finally, the United States’ reign, the longest winning streak of any sport, had ended. Since the U.S. spell was broken, New Zealand and, most recently, Switzerland have also claimed victories. As in all sports, sponsors come in many forms. Perhaps the most apt endorsers, though, are the Swiss watch brands which share their names in the competition. After all, as crews carefully navigate the waters, it is their well-crafted chrono-
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graphs that must keep them in time with the competition at hand. The 32nd America’s Cup features representation by renowned Swiss watchmakers TAG Heuer, Omega, Audemars Piguet, Girard-Perregaux and Hublot. Audemars Piguet has been a continual mainstay in the sport of sailing with their ongoing innovations in the art of timepiece design. With first-seen technologies such as a 1950s-introduced timepiece capable of tracking calendar irregularities like leap year and the mid-1980s debut of a self-winding wristwatch with an ultra-thin tourbillon carriage, Audemars Piguet has always had a sea-worthy presence. But the famously elegant and light Swiss brand made its grandest stamp on 18
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Omega Aquaracer
the sport of sailing as the official timepiece sponsor for the 2003 America’s Cup victor, Alinghi. Led by Ernesto Bertarelli, the Swiss sailors of Team Alinghi sported a reworked rendition of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak collection. The Royal Oak City of Sails 2002 chronographs that draped the wrists of the team timed their victory to a tee. Girard-Perregaux, usually invested in motor sports, has leapt on board with sport sailing in sponsorship of San Francisco’s Golden Gate Yacht Club’s entry. Previously sponsored by TAG Heuer in the 2003 America’s Cup, BMW Oracle Racing 20
is a top runner and one of the larger collectives in the regatta. In conjunction with their involvement, Girard-Perregaux has released various products to celebrate the team’s participation and the watchmaker’s presence in this year’s series. One piece, the limited edition R&D 01, will only be produced in a quantity of 156, corresponding to the number of years the America’s Cup has taken place. Omega has maintained a strong sponsoring relationship with the America’s Cup and the sport of sailing for over a decade. The brand first made its appearance at the America’s Cup in
1995 as the premier sponsor for Team New Zealand. That year’s event, held in San Diego, ended with a stunning win as the late Sir Peter Blake led the victorious vessel, Black Magic across the finish line. Blake’s success set the stage for Omega’s prized position in Auckland’s 2000 and 2003 America’s Cup tournament as the official timekeeper for the event. Blake brought victory to his homeland, New Zealand, in his team’s triumphant defense in 2000 but lost out to the Swiss challenger, Alinghi, in 2003. Omega will resurface at the 32nd America’s Cup as the official watch for Emirates Team New Zealand, expected to be a frontrunner in the com-
petition. TAG Heuer holds the distinction of building a budding partnership with a first time challenger at this summer’s America’s Cup. The People’s Republic of China and Swiss brand TAG Heuer kick off the dawning of a long-term association with an inaugural display of camaraderie at this year’s celebrated sailing event. The entire team will don the decorative yet functional Aquaracer Calibre S chronograph timepieces as they clamor for position in the race. The Caliber S series has been specially crafted for first use in the America’s Cup
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Hublot Big Bang Luna Rossa
and features bi-directional engines and hands as well as a synchronized countdown-chronograph capability. TAG Heuer blasted onto the Chinese market in recent years and hopes to further cultivate a longstanding presence in the country as the premier Swiss timepiece maker. The collaborative effort at this year’s America’s Cup should provide a marked impetus. Hublot, while not an official team sponsor, is splashing onto the America’s Cup scene with a new line of commemorative timepieces. Luna Rossa, the Italian team promoted as one of the most promising contenders, holds the honor of having a limited edition Hublot wristwatch collection crafted in inspiration of its team colors. Already the entire collection has sold 22
out and Hublot is considering a follow-up collection for Luna Rossa fans. Prada, the promoter for Luna Rossa, sold the timepieces in their flagship stores and may provide patrons with further installments of Hublot’s Luna Rossa honorary pieces. As the Swiss team Alinghi prepares to defend their title in the 32nd America’s Cup, the participating Swiss watch firms anticipate their own fine showing. The sailors set sail on June 23rd adorned with the finest Swiss timepieces to assist them in their excitingly emulous journey. Victory is at hand for just one sailing team, but the Swiss watchmakers’ success is already revealed through their mere presence in the race.
TAG Heuer Aquaracer
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INNOVATIONS
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Image courtesy of IWC
F
OLIES TECHNIQUES by Massimiliano Pantieri
The art of measuring and counting off periods of time always has been a source of fascination for mankind. Connoisseurs of the traditional art of mechanical watchmaking are, above all, fascinated by the inner life of their watch. This section of the magazine is dedicated to real watchmaking wonders, and we will therefore have in-depth looks at timepieces of a relevant innovative value. To start the “SM journey in wonderland,” we have asked Mr. Ron De Corte, an experienced and passionate watchmaker himself and a well-known and respected watch connoisseur, to share his thoughts on the horological innovations unveiled at Baselworld and SIHH this past April. De Corte picked six timepieces that best represent what the term “fine watchmaking” means: Jaeger-LeCoultre Duométre, Urwerk 201, Harry Winston Opus 7, Greubel Forsey 30 Degree Secret, De Bethune chronograph, A. Lange & Söhne
31 and Romain Gauthier. The timepieces highlighted in this article are all true horological innovations that likely will contend for the Best Watch of the Year awards for 2007. A first exclusive in-depth look at these innovations is dedicated to the Harry Winston Opus 7 presented in the following pages. About the Lange & Söhne, De Corte said, “When the name Lange & Söhne is mentioned, you automatically get a watch connoisseur’s attention. In my opinion, this year was very special with the introduction of the Lange 31. Thirty-one days of power reserve and constant force escapement; need I say more?” For De Corte, “Romain Gauthier is a fresh face from the famous Valley de Joux and into the world of independent
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Jaeger LeCoultre Duomètre à Chronographe
watchmakers. These watches are deceptively simple-looking but very creative inside.” Furthermore, “as it is almost expected, Harry Winston has collaborated with another independent watchmaker, soon to be superstar Andreas Strehler. The result is very intriguing: hours, minutes and power reserve on one rotating dial with only two tracks of numerals, all at the push of a button.” JAEGER-LECOULTRE DUOMÈTRE The Chronograph Reinvented Ron De Corte says of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Duomètre à Chronographe, ”This idea is long overdue: a separate barrel for the time and another barrel for the chronograph. And what could be cooler than a 1/6-second, jumping seconds hand making one revolution every second!” The new Duomètre collection vividly illustrates JaegerLeCoultre’s unassailable position in the highest spheres of technical watchmaking. Although the watch might look deceptively simple to the uninitiated, the first Duomètre à Chronographe may well prove to embody the ultimate 26
in chronographs — at least until the appearance of a new creation destined to take its place in this exceptional lineage. This genuine micromechanical revolution houses a newgeneration Calibre 380, nicknamed “Dual-Wing.” Two independent mechanisms respectively serve to drive the time display and an additional function, while a single shared regulating organ ensures chronometer-worthy operating precision without having to renounce the use of a complication. As the first representative of the new lineage, Calibre 380 is the first chronograph mechanism with no coupling-clutch, offering peerless time-measurement precision and read-off to the nearest one-sixth of a second. Housing this movement and endowed with a new case featuring welded lugs and a finely grained dial, the Duomètre offers a superlative reinterpretation of a great watchmaking classic. GREUBEL FORSEY Double Tourbillon 30 Degree Secret About the Greubel Forsey Tourbillon 30 Degree Secret watch, Ron DeCorte says, “Again this year, the team of
Greubel Forsey Double Tourbillon 30° Secret
Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey have shown the world what time and patience can lend to the tourbillon.”
polished, apart from the center band of the case, which is delicately straight-grained by hand.
Dedicated to connoisseurs of haute horlogerie with a preference for discretion, for whom observing the mechanism is an intensely personal pleasure, the Double Tourbillon 30 Degree now appears in a less extroverted and one might almost say “secretive” style, even though such a splendid dial naturally hints at the treasure it is guarding. Fortunately, however, the secret of this Double Tourbillon 30 Degree is not impenetrable and, although hidden from view on the wrist, the choreographic performance of the cages may nonetheless be admired through the case-back protected by a domed sapphire crystal. The 128 parts making up the first fundamental Greubel Forsey invention weigh a total of 1.17 grams, enabling the variable-inertia balance to oscillate to and fro three times a second, whereas its rotation axis shifts constantly due to the relative speeds of the cages and the 30-degree angle that links them together. Issued in a strictly limited edition of 11, the Double Tourbillon 30 Degree Secret comes in a white gold case that is entirely
URWERK An Horological Thunderclap! Ron De Corte on the Urwerk 201: “Urwerk (Felix Baumgartner), has something new and super cool to show us again in 2007. A minute hand that retracts and extends to follow the minute track ‘perfectly,’ hmmm ... how does he do that?” Baumgartner and Martin Frei have designed and developed a timepiece that sets new benchmarks in contemporary haute horlogerie. The 201 will have aficionados’ hearts pounding with cutting-edge technology and avant-garde aesthetics melding in a three-dimensional micromechanical fantasy. With the neoteric 201, Urwerk has taken its philosophy of innovation to previously undreamed of limits. The unique design, complication and features on this incredible timepiece are the result of years of research, experimentation, prototyping and testing. Not content with simply modifying yesterday’s complications, Urwerk invents, develops and crafts the complications of tomorrow.
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Urwerk 201
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De Bethune Single-button Maxichrono
Time on the 201 is displayed using telescopic minute hands operating through the middle of three orbiting and revolving hour satellites. This original feat of precision microengineering is achieved by means of “transporters,” one end of which follows a cam plotting the path of the minute indication, the other controlling the precise length of the minute hand. “The 201 is a machine to master time. It has the force, the character and the aggressiveness necessary to hold on to the minutes. The 201 is like a living machine adapting to its environment, reacting and transforming its temporal path. Despite my playing a role in bringing it to life, the watch continues to impress me. The 201 is a machine you have to tame, which is why I nicknamed it ‘Hammerhead,’” says Frei, designer and co-founder of Urwerk. DE BETHUNE Single-button MaxiChrono De Corte on the De Bethune chronograph: “In pursuit of perfection, De Bethune is quietly making watches that are changing the way the watchmaking industry uses innovative materials and ideas. Their new chronograph is no
exception.” The unique intuitions of De Bethune drove its highly qualified technical team to create a contemporary timepiece with unparalleled chronographic information, never seen before on a wristwatch, offering the best legibility of all the functions. The five coaxial superposed hands, an exclusive De Bethune design especially created for this watch, are one of the many examples of technical ability that, in this case, allow a perfect legibility of the chronographic time in any instant, not depending on the position of the hands of the hours and minutes (which interferes with the legibility of the traditional chronographic counters). The chronographic hands and the hand of the minute counter run in the external side of the dial, each one with its own scale, with something in addition: The double rotation speed of chronographic hands (one complete tour in 30 seconds) in order to double the space dedicated to the legibility of the functions.
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INNOVATION
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Butterfly effect
by Massimiliano Pantieri Genius, passion and hard work combine to give rise to a timepiece the likes of which has never before been seen in the prestige watchmaking sector. In the tradition, so dear to Harry Winston, of constantly seeking innovation … in early 2006, Hamdi Chatti (President of Harry Winston Rare Timepieces) selected Andreas Strehler, a young independent watchmaker from Winterthur, as the ideal partner for the creation of Opus 7. With Opus 7, Harry Winston has once again demonstrated that prestige watchmaking still contains uncharted waters. This time, an exceptional timepiece has ushered in an approach to which few can lay claim: “complications made simple”. What strikes you when you look at the Opus 7 for the first time is its magnificent butterfly shaped bridge, directly inspired by Art Nouveau. Despite its delicacy, it literally fills the space and so fascinates that it is hard to draw your eyes away from it. However much your eyes seek the time on the discreet black disk at 2 o’clock, they inevitably keep coming back to the butterfly bridge, which appears to be suspended above the gear train. No doubt it is here that all the beauty of this incredible movement lies. Generally, the gear train, the link between the barrel, the source of energy, and the escapement (the watch’s regulating 30
mechanism), comprise two large wheels and one smaller wheel: the minutes wheel (the largest), the intermediate wheel and the seconds wheel (the smallest one). Through his minimalist approach, Andreas Strehler has devised a way to remove the seconds wheel and retain only the two larger wheels. Why? To reduce the amount of friction without consuming more energy, as the wheels, large though they may be, turn more slowly in order to compensate for the lack of the third wheel. However, this approach led the watchmaker to rethink the size and form of each of the movement’s parts. The central wheel (blue), for example, the major component in the movement, is not a wheel with five radii (as found in conventional movements) but, instead, has three arms. From a visual standpoint, this difference suggests extraordinary purity and lightness. From a mechanical standpoint, a wheel with only three arms
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benefits by possessing a bearing capacity equal to six, which means it has greater stiffness, but no additional weight. But there are more surprises in store for the eye. When you look back at the hour disk, you begin to wonder how it works. Nothing could be simpler, even though the mechanism, operating by differential, is based on the highest level of complication. The principle applied was that of an alternating display. Instead of the hands turning to indicate hours, minutes and power reserve, the disk turns, by gently pushing the crown. Press once on the crown-protector and the disk turns to bring the hour numeral opposite the wheel indicator (in the form of a triangle) positioned at 10 o’clock (on the disk). Press a second time and the disk rotates again to align the minutes numeral with the indicator. Press again and the power reserve is displayed. The beauty is in the detail What really makes Opus 7 an exceptional timepiece is the painstaking attention paid by Andreas Strehler and the Harry Winston team to the details of its finish. The main bridge, a single piece free of welds, is rhodium-plated white gold. The plate just below – black – provides a breathtaking contrast. While the larger wheel is blue, the smaller one is rhodiumplated white gold and, between the two wheels, is the disk, 32
which is black with blue rhodium-plated numerals. Finally, the attentive viewer will not fail to observe that the color of the blue stitching on the alligator-skin strap is identical to that of the movement’s main wheel. Inspired by the Ocean’s round case, the white gold case of the Opus 7 has been re-crafted to espouse the movement’s “simplicity” and disappear behind its beauty. Still, even with its reworked design, the case is easily identifiable as a Harry Winston design: its lines are more direct, with tauter bezel edges than the traditional Ocean case and integrated horns (which are mobile on the Ocean models). The hinge pins, so emblematic of Harry Winston cases, have been redesigned to appear flush with the case’s side. The result is a more compact and more discreet appearance, which, with its larger 45 mm diameter, is also more masculine. The Opus 7 case is like a frame that accentuates a work of art. The fact that there is virtually no space between the movement and the crystal, unlike in traditional watches, is further proof of this art. In addition to being stunning, the Opus 7 has an almost tactile element: you feel you could almost touch the movement. The watch comes in a limited edition of 50 pieces.
The Avenue C. ©2007 Harry Winston www.harrywinston.com T +41 22 716 29 00 BAL HARBOUR BEVERLY HILLS DALLAS GENEVA HONOLULU LAS VEGAS LONDON NEW YORK OMOTESANDO OSAKA PARIS TAIPEI TOKYO
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HAUTE HORLOGERIE
DEWITT The Tourbillon à Force Constante The ingenious mechanism of the Tourbillon à Force Constante, the patented DW 8003 mechanical hand wound calibre, is protected by a case with a 43 mm diameter with bezel and middle parts sculpted with the “Imperial Columns” exclusive to the brand. Enhanced this year by a dial in hand engine-turned gold, finely cut out, the 18 carat gold plaque reveals the mechanism through two unusual openings, one at 8 o’clock for the constant force device and the other at 5 o’clock for the tourbillon cage, while the time is read on an axis centred on the upper half. The watch is completed by a double surface alligator skin strap.
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BVLGARI Power Reserve The pioneering use of the logo on the bezel characterises the unmistakable purity of design which made the first collection of Bulgari watches so famous. The geometry of the watchcase, a perfect section of a cylinder, makes the entire design a symbol of restrained elegance and authenticity. The unique curved case combines the master watchmakers’ traditional craftsmanship with Bulgari’s historically keen eye on innovation.
MAURICE LACROIX Masterpiece Squelette With its unhindered view into the mechanical Œuvre, the Masterpiece Squelette unites a contemporary, innovative design with the new skeleton manufacture movement ML 134, which represents the very best of the Swiss watchmaker’s art. The ML 134 calibre is a Maurice Lacroix manufacture movement, in which the unique-bridge as well as the pallet have been exceptionally and lavishly skeletonised. All bridges have a tantalum-coloured PVD surface finish, which is set into sharp relief by the black PVD-coated screws, the red jewels and the gold-plated wheels. The sapphire crystal dial is set apart by black, PVD-coated index marks, perfectly complemented by the PVDfinish in formal black elegant hands.
IWC Pilot Watch Chrono Automatic With its ideal size of 42 mm, the Pilot’s Watch Chrono-Automatic is a style icon. A working tool on land and in the air. Its colour combination alone makes it an ideal match and quite a temptation for all who aspire to fly “First” class. The 79320 calibre chronograph movement, with automatic winding, is protected by a soft iron inner case and is thus extremely antimagnetic. The sapphire glass, antireflective on both sides and secured against a sudden drop in air pressure, curves over the optimally legible instrument-type indications in stark white on a black background.
PERRELET Titanium (Ti.) Collection With its modern design, the Perrelet’s TITANIUM (Ti.) collection heralds a visionary chapter in the company’s traditional approach. Hightech materials, sporty spirit and technological vision give rise to a distinguished, high-profile collection. Discreetly hallmarked with the brand insignia, the design blends perfectly with the solid titanium case, which measures 43.50 mm in diameter, set with a natural rubber strap. The launch of this new collection is a futuristic homage to the creative genius of Abraham-Louis Perrelet, 230 years after the automatic rewinding mechanism with oscillating weight was invented, and 210 years after titanium was discovered by a British chemist.
ULYSSE NARDIN FREAK DIAMonSIL® Ulysse Nardin unveils the FREAK DIAMonSIL® with an escapement combining the properties of silicium and diamond: DIAMonSIL® (synthetic nanocrystal diamond grown on a silicium raw part). Produced in very small numbers, the original FREAK is sought after by the most elite and respected watch connoisseurs around the world. It contained fewer parts than the simplest watch today, and remained a Carrousel Tourbillon by necessity. The FREAK DIAMonSIL® in platinum is the first timepiece sporting a synthetic nanocrystal diamond escapement grown on a silicium raw part. A technical work of art, a symphony in white and blue, produced in a very limited edition of 28 pieces.
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TRENDS
SUMMER SIZZLE warm weather celebrates “hot” horlogerie
by Susan Robinson
© Longines
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Longines Diver
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EBEL 1911 Discovery
AS LONG, SUNNY DAYS HERALD THE ARRIVAL OF SUMMER, EVERY BEACH LOVER BEGINS TO DREAM ABOUT A TRIP TO THE COAST. WHETHER YOUR HOBBY IS BOATING, DIVING, SWIMMING OR SIMPLY LOOKING SENSATIONAL AS YOU WORK ON YOUR TAN BY THE SURF, SWISS WATCHMAKERS HAVE THE PERFECT TIMEPIECE FOR YOU. The Longines Sports Legend collection pays tribute to sports pioneers with the re-issue of the Legend Diver, a 1960 diving watch first produced during the heyday of marine exploration. The Legend Diver combines classic design with high-performance technical features: a sapphire glass, two screw-in crowns and a screw-down case back to ensure water resistance to approximately 1,000 feet, and a turning internal disk for divers. It is fitted with automatic mechanical 38
movement with a 45-hour power reserve. For a man who wants a contemporary diving watch, Ebel has updated its 1911 line for 2007. Billed as “the younger brother” of the 1911 BTR line introduced in 2006, the Discovery model is slightly smaller and more overtly sporty. The newer style displays the signature features of the 1911 line: a hexagonal case with five visible screws, as well as the recognizable Ebel bracelet with a brushed and polished finish. The Discovery is offered in a variety of materials, including a model composed of steel and 18-karat yellow gold. Intended for lovers of yachting, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master II is indispensable at the starting line of a regatta. The programmable countdown feature with mechanical memory gives you the ability to set it according
BAUME & MERCIER Riviera
to the countdown time of each race. And any skipper will appreciate the functions designed to be executed with one hand, making it easy to keep the other hand on the wheel. The Ring Command bezel exclusive to Rolex is available in two versions: a blue ceramic disc with engraved yellow gold numerals, and a one-piece platinum design with raised numerals. For a woman who loves the water but still prefers an elegant watch, Jaeger-Le Coultre presents the Master Compressor Diving Lady. Sporty yet glamorous, the Master Compressor offers a choice between a second time-zone display and a chronographic function. Sixteen diamonds adorn the bezel, and the crown is set with a turquoise gemstone or a moonstone. Choose between polished steel and 18-karat
pink gold, and from a white alligator strap, a steel bracelet or a white rubber strap. Inspired by the famous octagonal case of the Laureato, Girard-Perregaux has created the Laureato USA 98 Lady. This feminine chronograph capitalizes on the technical performance features developed for the BMW Oracle Racing collection. The hours and the bezel glitter with 40 diamonds for a total of 1.41 carat. The curves of the numbers give a soft appearance, while the pushers are integrated into the case. Zones that are scooped out of the dial give a glimpse of the movement. This limited edition timepiece comes with an alligator strap and a folding clasp. An ocean motif lends a unique appeal to Zenith’s Star Sea
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Open. The 2007 design of this timepiece is fashioned from white gold, and a total of 0.41 carat of diamonds dance across the bezel and white mother-of-pearl dial. The “Open” moniker refers to the starfish cutout that reveals the white gold oscillating weight. The Star Sea is available in the larger El Primero chronograph and the smaller Elite Baby model. Close your eyes and imagine the sound of waves breaking on the beach, the coolness of the invigorating sea breeze and the feel of warm sand beneath your feet. Isn’t it “time” you headed for the shore?
ROLEX Yacht Master II Regatta JAEGER LECOULTRE Master Compressor Diving Lady Chronograph
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FOR HIM
GC Sport Class Chronograph With the new Sport Class ‘Rose Gold’, Gc Watches provides a unique combination of color, prestige and fashion. This stylish chronograph presents black and rose-goldplated finishing in a feast of materials and textures, including brushed matte-look metal and carbon effects. The expressive chronograph has two counters, one at 3 o’clock for the seconds, and one at 9 o’clock for the minutes and hours. Standard time indication is centrally positioned and displayed by silver hour and minute hands and a red second hand. Water resistant to a depth of 100 meters, the watch has a screw down crown for optimum seal.
IWC Aquatimer Chrono Coustau Divers IWC unveils a beautiful Aquatimer Chronograph with the characteristic maritime colours of the “Cousteau Divers” special series on the newly designed dial. Luminous orange on the rotating diving bezel, combined with the deep blue of the ocean and the rhodium-plated inner dials, produce an exciting, youthful colour combination, which enhances the functionality and legibility on this occasion. The back of the diver’s watch in its 44 mm stainless steel case, in a limited edition of 2,500, bears the intricate relief engraving of a diver in the midst of a shoal of tropical fish. Running around it is the inscription “Cousteau Divers”. JAEGER LECOULTRE Master Compressor Diving Master Compressor Diving Pro Geographic is the star diver’s model of Jaeger LeCoultre. With a 46.3-mm diameter and a mechanical depth gauge, the latter include a case custom designed to withstand 1000-metre depth pressures and an innovative mechanical depth gauge. The lucky owner can observe the changes in the membrane visible through an opening on the side of the chamber. Diving Pro Geographic constitutes an impressive achievement combining inventiveness and technical genius. Unmistakably an instrument intended for professionals, it symbolises the inexhaustible creativity and reliability of the timepieces conceived and produced within an exceptional Manufacture.
VICTORINOX Dive Master 500 LE The Dive Master 500 Limited Edition features a tough yet lightweight titanium case and bracelet treated with a special offblack PVD finish. A screw-down crown and see-through screw-in exhibition caseback provide the utmost protection against water and humidity while the new ETA 2896 11 ½’’’ mechanical self-winding calibre bring accuracy and performance with a power reserve exceeding 42 hours. It withstands dives to 500 meters (1650 feet) and features a helium valve to evacuate any overpressure of the gas accumulated in the watchcase. Only 900 of the Dive Master 500 Limited Edition series will be issued worldwide. CONCORD C1 Forceful, the C1 shows its ambitions in a monumental steel case measuring 44 mm in diameter and 16.70 mm thick. Its strikingly modern graphic look heralds a structural watch utilizing an innovative approach to materials. The perfectly readable dial has a distinctive layered construction with a depth and perspective that are accentuated by the subtle effects of shade and light. Water-resistant to 200 meters and comprising 42 parts, the case benefits from a revolutionary assembly method, which absorbs shocks and thus optimizes the sturdiness of the watch. Certified by the official Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), this forceful, ultra-masculine watch is a concentrated union of performance and innovation.
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BALL Watch The BALL Engineer Master II Diver TMT provides the simplest safest solution for timing a dive. The rotating inner bezel operates with a screweddown crown to ensure that the bezel cannot move under water, while the red-colored O-rings seal the case for deep diving to 300 meters. The BALL Engineer Master II Diver TMT caliber 9018 movement ensures it will function perfectly from –40 to 140°F (-40 to 60°C) without any adverse affect on accuracy. The black color of the Diver TMT case is not simply a matter of style. The Diamond-Like Carbon (DLC) of the case provides impressive hardness, low friction and even electrical insulation. Water-resistant to 300 meters, with 41 BALL micro gas tubes integrated into the rotating bezel, the diver will never have to worry about lighting again.
ZENITH Defy Xtreme Producing performance, strength and surprise has always been the watchword of the DEFY Xtreme collection. Now it has added the ability to seduce. Conceived as a Formula 1 car, the Manufacture’s engineers have used the physical theory of shock waves to help design the case so that any shock is dispersed and therefore absorbed by the structure as a whole. This is now a watch that is indestructible, super-performing, capable of resisting 100 atmospheres of pressure. This year, the pink gold provides a whole new design sheet. On the case or the strap, the contrast with the titanium and the kevlar is really striking; on the dial, the carbon fibre brings out the pink gold of the helixes, the hands and the upper plate of the movement.
ROMAIN JEROME “Titanic-DNA” The “Titanic-DNA” watch contains authentic parts of the Titanic ocean liner drawn from the ocean floor. The rusted steel is created by an extraordinary fusion that brings together the authentic steel of the shipwreck, which was resting on the ocean floor at a depth of 3’840 meters, and that of the future Titanic II. This is how the DNA is captured and a myth is reborn. The hands are inspired by the anchor of the Titanic and turn on a dial of deep black; a color obtained from the coal collected in the legendary shipwreck. Each version contains a Lajoux Perret movement and is limited to 2’012 pieces; a number referring to the celebration of the 100th anniversary of the Titanic and the launch date of the Titanic II in Belfast in 2012.
ORIS Carlos Coste Chronograph LE Enter the World of the Record-breaking Diver. Titanium case 47 mm in diameter. Massive sapphire glass 4.80 mm. Water-resistant to 1000 m. Limited worldwide to 2000 watches: the numbers speak for themselves. This innovative and oversized diver’s chronograph represents the extreme world of Carlos Coste, the free-diving world record holder and watch partner of Oris – an exclusive in extremis. This professional diver’s watch is equipped with a unidirectional security bezel to record elapsed diving time, screw-down buttons and crown, positioned at nine o’clock for protection, helium valve for pressure compensation, and top-class mechanical movement. Orange luminous inlay on the indices and hands ensure optimal readability in the deep sea.
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ANNIVERSARY
the Lone Eagle CHARLES LINDBERGH New York – Paris 1927 by Massimiliano Pantieri
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At 7:52 a.m. on May 20, 1927, Charles Lindbergh gunned the engine of the Spirit of St. Louis and aimed her down the dirt runway of Roosevelt Field in New York City. Heavily laden with fuel, four sandwiches and two canteens of water, the plane bounced down the muddy field, gradually became airborne and barely cleared the telephone wires at the field’s edge. The crowd of 500 thought they had witnessed a miracle. On the evening of May 21, he crossed the coast of France, followed the Seine River and touched down at Le Bourget Field in Paris at 10:22 p.m. The waiting crowd of 100,000 rushed the plane, eager to meet him. He had flown more than 3,600 miles (5,790 kilometers) in 33 hours, the first to fly the Atlantic alone. “I was astonished at the effect my successful landing in France had on the nations of the world. To me, it was like a match lighting a bonfire,” Lindbergh said. Lindbergh’s feat gained him immediate international fame. The press named him “Lucky Lindy” and the “Lone Eagle.” Americans and Europeans idolized the shy, slim young man and showered him with honors. He became an instant international hero, and the most famous man in the world. New York City gave him the largest ticker tape parade ever, and the president awarded him the Distinguished Flying Cross. His feat electrified the nation and inspired enthusiastic interest in aviation. Charles Augustus Lindbergh was born Feb. 4, 1902, in Detroit. He was the son of Swedish immigrant Charles Augustus Lindbergh Sr., a lawyer who served as a U.S. congressman from Minnesota from 1907 to 1917, and his wife, Evangeline Lodge Land. In childhood, Lindbergh showed exceptional mechanical ability. At the age of 18, he entered the University of Wisconsin to study engineering. However, Lindbergh was more interested in the exciting, young field of aviation than he was in school. After two years, he left school to become a
barnstormer, a pilot who performed daredevil stunts at fairs. In 1924, Lindbergh enlisted in the United States Army so that he could be trained as an Army Air Service Reserve pilot. In 1925, he graduated from the Army’s flight-training school at Brooks and Kelly fields, near San Antonio, as the best pilot in his class. After Lindbergh completed his Army training, the Robertson Aircraft Corp. of St. Louis hired him to fly the mail between St. Louis and Chicago, where he gained a reputation as a cautious and capable pilot. In 1919, a New York City hotel owner named Raymond Orteig offered $25,000 to the first aviator to fly nonstop from New York to Paris. Several pilots were killed or injured while competing for the Orteig prize. By 1927, it had still not been won. Lindbergh believed he could win it if he had the right airplane. He persuaded nine St. Louis businessmen to help him finance the cost of a plane. Lindbergh chose Ryan Aeronautical Co. of San Diego to manufacture a special plane, which he helped design. He named the plane the Spirit of St. Louis. On May 10-11, 1927, Lindbergh tested the plane by flying from San Diego to New York City, with an overnight stop in St. Louis. The flight took 20 hours, 21 minutes, a transcontinental record. To time his enterprise, “the first hero of the century” (Time Magazine, 1929) had a Longines Weems watch on his wrist. Following his trans-Atlantic solo flight, Lindbergh conceived the design of the Hour Angle Watch, whose production was then entrusted to Longines. Demonstrating its invaluable contribution to the development of manned flight, Longines’ Lindbergh Hour Angle Watch was soon instrumental in setting any number of world records. For instance, it helped Clyde Panghorn and Hugh Herndon to complete the first direct single-engine trans-Pacific flight from Japan to the state of Washington in 1931; Amelia Earhart to set the women’s solo transcontinental and trans-
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Atlantic flying records in 1932; Amy Johnson to fly solo from England to South Africa and back; Paul Codos and Maurice Rossi to set a new New York-to-Syria flying record; Wiley Post to establish a solo round-the-world speed record in seven days, 18 hours, 49 minutes; and Richard T. Merrill and John Lambie, whose same-day round trip from New York to London was wildly celebrated. In commemoration of this year’s 80th anniversary of Charles Lindbergh’s exploit, the stainless steel version has been enhanced with an 18-karat yellow gold case version in a limited edition of 80 pieces. In the original dimensions of exactly 47.5 mm across, this model is based on the patent for a watch registered in conjunction with Longines by Captain P.V.H. Weems: a simple and decisive invention whereby the watch could be synchronized to the nearest second with a radio time signal using the outer bezel of the central dial. In the early decades of the past century, a large-sized watch like this one was far easier to read and handle in the gloom, noise and vibrations 46
of the plane cockpits of the period. What’s more, a pilot or navigator’s gloved fingers could easily manipulate its oversized knurled crown. Along with black painted double minute track and Roman numerals, the dial features 12 blue painted Arabic numerals serving to calculate and display longitudes. The seconds hand is synchronized to a radio time signal via the silvered rotating center dial featuring a black painted double minute track and red numerals. The blue and black Arabic numerals engraved on the case’s rotating bezel serve to adjust it to daily variations in the equation of time. Symbolized by a winged hourglass, the Longines brand has accompanied aviation pioneers during their greatest exploits. In associating its name with those of men and women who have dared the impossible, Longines proves its attachment to the exceptional and to excellence. Sources: Longines; www.charleslindbergh.com; www.acepilots.com
TO MARK ITS 125TH ANNIVERSARY, CUERVO Y SOBRINOS PRESENTS A LIMITED EDITION OF THE ROBUSTO CHRONOGRAPH
Power, speed and performance: the steel Robusto chronograph moon-phase model, produced in a limited series of 125, redefines the spirit of world conquest. Refined lines, a resolutely avant-garde case and a meticulously stylised carbon fibre dial endow the timekeeper with an eloquently adventurous temperament. Precision, state-of-the-art technology and refinement: Cuervo y Sobrinos presents the limited-series chronograph with moon-phase display encased in a dynamic new exterior. The innovative material, carbon fibre, enlivens the dial with its shimmering squared pattern as well as a motif curving around the sides of the case. With its profoundly masculine graphic design, the dial shows all the functions of the timekeeper. The moon-phase can be read in eighths in a counter located at 3 o’clock. The chronograph features a tone-on-tone hour and day of the week counter at 6 o’clock. The 30-minute and month indicator appears at 9 o’clock, while the date display is situated at 12 o’clock and doubles function-wise as a seconds counter. The Robusto chronograph moon-phase houses a self-winding mechanism whose sophisticated details can be admired through an anti-reflecting
sapphire crystal caseback. By way of a brand within the brand, an indigo engraving permanently inscribes the 125 years of company history on the oscillating weight embellished by the fan motif that is exclusive to Cuervo y Sobrinos. The model has a power reserve of 42 hours. The screw-in caseback guarantees water-resistance to 3 atmospheres. The new limited-series Robusto chronograph of 125 comes with a deep black patinated leather (calfskin) strap. Recommended retail price: $ 6,500.
www.cuervoysobrinos.com
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C U LT U R E
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Image courtesy of ARTBASEL
Art 38 Basel by Massimiliano Pantieri Art Basel is the art world’s leading art show and most important annual marketplace, offering art lovers the most extensive “temporary museum” of our day. Art Basel bases its outstanding reputation on the high quality and unmatched diversity of works on display, and on the international audience it attracts. The annual reunion of the international art world regularly attracts more than 50,000 artists, collectors, gallery owners, curators and art enthusiasts, who come to see the largest, most rigorously juried overview of what the international art market has to offer and to meet the stars and insiders of the international art scene. All forms of artistic expression will be represented at Art 38 Basel, the repertoire extending from paintings, drawings, editions and sculptures to installations, photography, performance work, and Internet and video art. Works for a few thousand francs by young, as yet undiscovered artists will be on display alongside museum-quality masterpieces priced in the millions. Once again the crème de la crème of the international gallery scene will be exhibiting at the show. Three hundred galleries from around the globe have been selected to participate,
showing works by more than 2,000 artists of the 20th and 21st centuries. Experts and enthusiasts alike will be able to find works they have been seeking, discover new talents, compare prices and scent out trends. For the artists themselves, it is a prestigious platform with worldwide impact. The intimate atmosphere of the beautiful, art-loving city of Basel adds to the appeal of the event. Special exhibitions and social functions at the local museums provide further attractions and meeting places. And in the evening, people flock to the Art Club at the Kunsthalle, featuring DJs flown in from across Europe by the Carhartt fashion label. Making its debut this year is the new “Art on Stage” platform, in association with the Theater Basel. Targeting artists who need a stage and an auditorium for their projects, it will be inaugurated by Hugo Boss Prize-winning artist Rirkrit Tiravanija with his performance piece “An Untitled Concert,” in collaboration with the Basel Sinfonietta. This year, the “Art Unlimited” hall and “Art Basel Conversations” will be among the highlights of the show. “Art Unlimited” has approximately 60 unconventional works on show and for sale. The platform enables artists to exhibit
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Image courtesy of ARTBASEL
works that can rarely be presented owing to spatial, temporal, technical, financial, contextual or conceptual constraints. With the accent on innovative and large-scale works, everything from outsize sculptures and installations to video projections, wall paintings and performances will be on show and for sale. Works by such established artists as Ai Weiwei, Alighiero e Boetti, Carl Andre, Daniel Buren, Alexander Calder, Bruce Conner, Carlos Garaicoa, David Hammons, Allan McCollum, Annette Messager, Stephen Prina, Gregor Schneider, Jim Shaw and Marijke van Warmerdam will be joined by a large number of pieces by young and little-known artists. Many of the works have been produced especially for “Art Unlimited.” Mornings are the time for “Art Basel Conversations.” Prominent art collectors, museum directors, artists, art patrons and biennale curators will be discussing the following subjects: “The Future of the Museum: Europe,” “Art Collections as Cultural Heritage,” “Artists: Production – Coproduction – Overproduction” and “Art Criticism Today.” Afterward the audience will have an opportunity to meet the panelists personally. The program of “Art Basel Conversations” is devised 50
in collaboration with Hans-Ulrich Obrist (co-director of exhibitions and programs and director of international projects, Serpentine Gallery, London). The “Art Lobby” forum will offer a daily program of artist talks, book signings, roundtables and presentations. “Art Statements”: The Next Generation For more than three decades, Art Basel has been committed to promoting young artists. “Perspektiven,” “Neue Tendenzen,” “Young Galleries” and, since 1996, “Art Statements” provide young artists with a special platform that brings them to the attention of an international audience of curators, collectors and media. This year the “Art Statements” sector has been expanded to include 26 one-person shows of young artists from 16 countries, promising art enthusiasts fascinating discoveries and intriguing encounters with the work of the latest generation of artists. Designed by the Basel architecture firm of Steinmann & Schmid, the exhibition is complemented by a bookstore, a cafeteria and the “Art Lobby” discussion forum, where artists, art mediators and the public can meet and exchange ideas.
Image courtesy of ARTBASEL
Art in Public Space Unlike a traditional sculpture exhibition, “Public Art Projects” showcases interventions in urban space. The exhibition area in front of the buildings hosting the international art show is once again scheduled to become an arena for art projects in public space. The “Public Art Projects” platform offers fascinating insight into leading contemporary artists’ interpretations of new art in public space. Nine projects by internationally recognized artists Wim Delvoye, Michael Elmgreen and Ingar Dragset, Anish Kapoor, Tadashi Kawamata, Paul McCarthy, Mike Nelson, Vedovamazzei, Not Vital, and Thomas Zipp will be installed site-specifically on Exhibition Square in front of the buildings hosting Art Basel. Their artistic interventions will connect with the daily lives of passersbies in poetic, alienating or surprising ways. Artist Records After presenting special exhibitions of artist books for the past two years, this year Art Basel focuses its special exhibition on sound recordings produced or designed by artists (“Artist Records”).
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Image courtesy of ARTBASEL
Art Film The “Art Film” sector once again has a top-flight program of new films by and about artists in store at the Stadtkino Basel. Benjamin Weil, executive director of Artists Space in New York, is curator of “Art Film.” This Brunner, a collector with profound knowledge of the international film scene, and artist John Armleder each will organize an evening with special guests. The world-renowned jeweler Cartier is joining Art Basel as an associate sponsor. Cartier will showcase its commitment to the Paris-based Fondation Cartier pour l’art contemporain at the international art show. Art Basel and the artnet Internet portal will also cooperate for the first time. The participating galleries will be accessible on artnet for two months after the close of the international art show. The local museums 52
have noteworthy exhibitions (including Robert Gober, Jasper Johns, Brice Marden, Edvard Munch, and the Situationists) and a broad range of events in store. And this year Art Basel, the Venice Biennale, the documenta in Kassel, and Skulpturenprojekte Münster will cooperate officially for the first time. The 38th edition of Art Basel takes place from June 13 through 17, 2007, in the museum-rich city of Basel, Switzerland. The American sister event of Art Basel is Art Basel Miami Beach, the most important art show on the American continent and a cultural and social highlight of the Americas. It will take place Dec. 6-9, 2007.
Our open-air cinema. Lake Stelli with a view of the Matterhorn, Valais
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deconstructing
RENE ANDESSNER by Simone Sanfratello
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Following her studies at the Kunstakademie in Vienna (with Max Weiler and Arnulf Rainer) and in Venice (Emilio Vedova), and a scholarship year in Rome (1982), the Salzburgborn Irene Andessner has increasingly concentrated on the self-portrait theme. Taking off from gestural painting in the spirit of the “Jungen Wilden” she soon linked classical painting techniques (oil on canvas) with self-portraits which can be conceptually read as “date pictures”. Since the mid90s she has translated her concepts into the techniques of photography and video. Self-staging through role-play has taken the place of the painted self-portrait. “After-images” of 56
art-historical and time-historical examples such as Sofonisba Anguissola or Constanze Mozart are emerging, as well as sacred (Black Madonna) and fictional (Rachel from “Blade Runner”) individuals and modern myths (Marlene Dietrich). In the “I.M.Dietrich” project the role identification goes so far as the assumption of the exemplar’s family name through a real marriage. As “Wanda” she reproduces Leopold of Sacher-Masoch’s ideal image of woman. For the 250th anniversary of Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart’s birthday, which was celebrated in 2006, she re-enacting roles of performers who have played Mozart since the silent movie era.
Previous Pages: Portrait Project I.A. Irene Andessner/Erwin Wurm, 2007 Motifs: “Home Work” (left page) and “Office Work” (right) Photographer: Peter Kubelka Left page: Project “I.M. Dietrich”, 2001 Motiv “Café Electric” Photographer: Matthias Herrmann Page right: Frauen zu Salzburg [Woman of Salzburg], 1999, Motifs: Empress Caroline before/afterwards Photographer: Alex Majewski
Irene Andessner is an artist who has advanced the self-portrait genre in an original way. For the philosopher Peter Sloterdijk her pictures serve as an illustrative example of his definition of “DÈtrait”, with which he indicates a standpoint opposite to that of the portrait: namely, the disintegration and thereby the interchangeability of the artistic representation of personality. “The face is only mine by chance,” said Andessner in an interview in 1994 about a series of self-portraits whose tension results from the way the self-depictions vary. Handed down, remembered, imagined, idealised, self “perceived” images... the image of the woman to whom she lends
her changeable face “is always a fiction – in the eyes of the beholder as much as of society” (Andessner). Not “I was” but “I am” (as she calls her production team) is the artist’s motto. A credo through which she herself gives absolutely contemporary expression to historical figures. And offers an art which counterpoints the contemporary. In the work shown the photoproduction was sponsored by Fogal Swiss leader manufacturer of stockings.
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MOVADO Museum 60mm Movado Limited Edition Museum 60mm is a bold and stunning tribute to the landmark 60th anniversary of the iconic Movado Museum dial. This exceptional timepiece is distinguuished by a grand 60mm 18k white gold case brilliant with 60 sparkling diamonds, complemented by a supple black alligator strap.
TISSOT Classic Prince First launched in 1916, the Prince was illustrative and innovative for its time and captured the visual flavour of the Art Deco epoch. With its getly curved watch case to match the countours of the wrist, the 1916 Tissot Prince model quickly became known as the Banana watch.
DECò STYLE by Susan Robinson
Art Deco movement rises from ancient tomb When British archaeologist Howard Carter discovered the lost tomb of King Tutankhamen in 1922, throngs of people crowded the site to see the treasures within. However, the excavator could not have predicted what his find would inspire next. The world’s ensuing fascination for Egypt was manifested in decorative art, graphic design, architecture, furniture, textiles and jewelry. What eventually came to be known as Art Deco design was characterized by long, thin forms, curved surfaces and geometric patterns — much like the images carved into the walls of the pharaoh’s tomb.
Art Deco also borrowed elements from the cultures of Africa, Asia and Aztec Mexico. The updated classical style represented the rapid modernization of the world and celebrated Machine Age technology such as aviation, electric lighting and the skyscraper. New York is home of two of the most well-known Art Deco structures: the Chrysler Building, designed by William Van Alen, and Rockefeller Center, by architect Raymond Hood. Other artists who found success during the period include French glassmaker Rene Lalique, Polish-American painter Tamara de Lempicka and Russian-born French painter and designer Erte.
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Hermes Kelly Created in tribute to the most iconic Hermès handbag, the Kelly Diamonds is available with three gem-setting variations: one adorned with 52 diamonds forming two double rows on either side of the dial; another with 104 diamonds set in the same motif on either side; and finally a version paved with 186 diamonds. Van Cleef & Arpels Secret Etincelles A marvellous delicately curved object in gold set with diamonds. This Charming piece of jewellery evokes absolute elegance and delicate feminity, and its simplicity is perfectly set off by a black satin strap. A closer look will also reveal a secret. By pulling on the delicate side motif, a little drawer opens to display a mother of pearl dial bearing tistinct numbers and the House logo. Jaeger LeCoultre Joaillerie 101 Art Déco The geometrical lines of this model are inspired by the rich heritage of Jaeger LeCoultre. This technical gem houses the world’s smallest mechanical movement and its dainty size makes it an exquisitely femine piece of jewellery.
Known for its opulence, Art Deco was marketed primarily to a wealthy international clientele. After peaking in the 1920s and ’30s, the movement began to lose patronage during the 1940s as the austerities of World War II took hold in the West. The movement has enjoyed small revivals through the years, and Art Deco still retains enthusiasts. Its designs often appear in modern architecture, interior design and media when the desired look is “classic retro.” Fans of Art Deco style have no shortage of ways to take pleasure in the art form. A quick search on the Internet brings up hundreds of sites, including directories for furniture and other accessories for the home, antiques, collectibles, apparel and jewelry, to name just a few. 60
Swiss watchmakers also understand the appeal of Art Deco, offering luxury timepieces that celebrate the retro style. The geometric lines of the Joaillerie 101 Art Deco model from Jaeger-LeCoultre are inspired by the maker’s rich heritage. The 18k white gold case is set with 36 diamonds for a total of 0.8 carats. Choose from a double-wrap brushed canvas strap or a gold bracelet - with or without an additional 3.2 carats of glittering diamonds! For a fresh clover design to mark the spring season, select the Alhambra Vintage women’s watch from Van Cleef & Arpels. This diamond version is true to the original cloverleaf created in 1974, and two golden hands and Swiss movement make this timepiece appropriate for any event. A matching bracelet also is available.
design and materials meet details and elements
Other watches inspired by Art Deco are the Avenue women’s collection from Harry Winston; the Heritage Classics Art Deco, a unisex design by Tissot; the Worldmaster Art Deco men’s collection by Atlantic; and the Kelly women’s watch from Hermes. Whether you display your admiration for Art Deco on your wrist or prefer to experience it through art or architecture, remember to thank King Tut and his tomb builders for encouraging the movement that continues to delight devotees today.
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AUTE JOAILLERI Simply Breathtaking by Lilli Bertoni
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HARRY WINSTON Duchesse “If I could, I would attach the diamonds directly onto a woman’s skin,” Harry Winston once said. Duchesse virtually realizes this desire. The setting remains relatively invisible, allowing the diamonds the necessary space to freely express their full beauty and brilliance. The Duchesse’s three-dimensional form represents the very distinctive Harry Winston signature of overlapping stones and geometric grace. Carat wight: 667 stones for 61.44 carats (331 baguette-cut and 336 round-cut) BREGUET Plumes Princesse Beyond luxury... a watch of breathtaking splendour, with an exclusive array of diamonds patterned on the Plumes motif. Its gem-set white gold case protects a selfwinding mechanical movement. A dazzling cuff-type bracelet in white gold enhanced with interwoven diamond-set patterns is tailored to the exact dimensions of the wrist for which the watch is destined. Two other designs on the same pattern combine to perfection diamonds and emeralds in one case, diamonds and blue sapphires in the other, to create personal adornments both exclusive and unbelievably extravagant.
BREGUET Les Jardins du Petit Trianon Les Glycines Les Glycines necklace in 18-carat gold set with 70 baguette-cut blue sapphires (14 ct), 206 brilliant-cut sapphires (26.25 ct), 127 pear-cut diamonds (29,99 ct) and set with a 2.02 ct pear-cut diamond. Les Glycines earrings in 18-carat white gold set with 22 pear-cut diamonds (5.89) and pavé-set with 104 blue sapphires (4.31 ct) Les Glycines ring in 18-carat white gold pavéed with 63 pearand brilliant-cut diamonds (3.12 ct) and set with an 8-carat blue sapphire.
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LEON HATOT The Fleurs de Lotus necklace pampers the senses with delicate and subtle pleasures. White or yellow gold. Pink sapphires and diamonds. The pure bloom rises as if by magic above the shimmering waters. Inspired by the early 20th century designs of the master-jeweller, the Maison Léon Hatot remains faithful to the spirit of its founder, demonstrated in a commitment to sublimating feminine beauty.
CHANEL Première Twenty years ago, Chanel entered the world of watchmaking with the “Première” watch, the success of which is undeniable. To celebrate this event, Jacques Helleu reveals the “Première in a new light. Smaller and more precious, the watch is fruit of the alchemy between the original model, with its dial evoking the shape of Place Vendôme and the “Mademoiselle” watch, form where the new Première takes its elegant pearl bracelet. This jewelry watch features a baguette-set dial of 34 white diamonds and a delicate bracelet of two rows of 194 Akoya pearls set on fine woven gold threads.
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HARRY WINSTON Diamond cluster Vine bracelet Diamond Lattice cuff bracelet CARTIER Tank Cordons Tonneau Cordons
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LEON HATOT Watch Fleurs de Lotus The master jewellers at LĂŠon Hatot handassembled this handsome watch, whose sensuous floral motif beautifully offsets the geometrics of the dial. Brilliantly rising to the challenge, they devised an ingenious sliding system set with precious stones. Like a gleaming keepsake box, below which the hands mark each passing moment in celebration of feminine mystery. Inspired by the early 20th century designs of the founding master-jeweller, the Maison LĂŠon Hatot perpetuates his lifetime aspiration: to glorify feminine beauty.
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LUXURY
REAM DLUXURY 68
de GRISOGONO « Boule » Collection - Necklace in pink gold. « Boule » Collection - Necklace in pink gold set with 77 white diamonds of 4.85 carats. « Boule » Collection - Necklace in pink gold set with 350 white diamonds of 14carats. « Boule » Collection - Bracelet in pink gold.
de GRISOGONO plays with volumes to highlight its gems Through unexpected reflections and geometric surprises, smart movements and humour, the new jewellery collection created by de GRISOGONO, displays a playful and precious universe. A refined dialogue between courageous new designs of rare elegance and forms where the curve takes centre stage.
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CHOPARD Happy Diamonds collection 18 ct. white gold bracelet, chain and earings composed of a series of polished, diamond set hearts.
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FASHION
Charme Design VERSUS
by Lilli Bertoni
Supercharged with an aspirational dynamic that never ceases to surprise, Versus is always ahead of the trends, always going beyond the traditional confines of fashion. Against this background the Versace Group has decided to unleash the infinite potential of Versus by focusing all its resources on the development and creation of a new generation of accessories aimed at interpreting the requirements of today’s market and responding to the desires of all those who love beauty, who like to keep pace with contemporary trends, who wish to be set apart by the accessories they wear, and who enjoy a high performance life style, simplified by advanced technology. For Versus the watch signifies a new and utterly contemporary way of treating time, a means not just of measuring it but also of living it with style. The Versus collection is an invitation to take possession of time itself, decoding and interpreting every minute according to personal preference. The original shapes and materials present in Versus watches are what give them their own distinctive character. The assertive contemporary design is the unifying theme that runs through this new collection confirming its significance as evidence of the brand’s renewed vigour.
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FASHION
FRESH BEAUTY by Sherry Williams
CALVIN KLEIN, THE RENOWNED DESIGNER DENIM BRAND ALSO KNOWN AS THE “KING OF CLEAN”, MADE A SENSATION IN 1980 WITH THE FIRST ADVERTISING CAMPAIGN FEATURING BROOKE SHIELDS. THE CAMPAIGN’S IRRESISTIBLE SUGGESTION OF SEXINESS BURNED THE COMPANY NAME AND IMAGE INTO THE WORLD’S CONSCIOUSNESS WITH THE FAMOUS LINE: “YOU KNOW WHAT COMES BETWEEN ME AND MY CALVINS? NOTHING.” “…we stand for being modern, contemporary, sophisticated, pure, natural and often minimal. Consistent. And, we stand for sex in a very big way. We are a brand that can affect youth and people of any age.” Calvin Klein Always prominently placed in the fashion planet, ck Watch & Jewelry is celebrating its tenth year of activity with attractive creations which unashamedly adopt contemporary forms. For 2007, ck Watch & Jewelry unveiled a collection with understated and rigorous lines, reflecting the minimalist and discreet look of a resolutely modern brand. The new international advertising campaign, produced in New York by famous photographer David Sims, portrays Natalia Vodianova, one of the world’s most sought-after fashion icons, and Calvin Klein’s own exclusive model. 74
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watch: cK Hypnotic jewelry: cK Ebony rings & bangles
Natalia Vodianova, known more simply as « Supernova », is as beautiful in life as on the silver screen. A piercing beauty. With disconcerting simplicity she exhales light. In the street, as in a studio or in the splendour of a fashion show, when you see her, you stop to look at her. She is tall, smiling, obvious, mysterious, true but disarming. Seduction, class, sensuality, splendour, luxury, beauty… glamour is all of that at once. It cannot be defined. You sense it. You see it. You live and breathe it. Her allure, sophisticated in spite of herself, has something of the timeless. A girl with velvet eyes. A magnetic gaze. And
behind that transparent film lies an iron will. In her voice there are still traces of her native country, Russia, where she was born 25 years ago. With her husband Justin, she has created an admirable foundation, Naked Heart*, which provides prefab playrooms for Russian children, medicine and offers a taste of pleasure in finding one’s way back to a certain joie de vivre. *Naked Heart, 360 Hamilton Av., Suite 100, White plains NY 10601.
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GUCCI Signoria Gucci's sculptural new Signoria watch is a strikingly glamorous. The bracelet's fluid curves are composed by multiple interconnected horsebitshaped links that boldly juxtapose the square and graphic case. Extraordinary craftsmanship and rich materials make the watch utterly luxurious. It's available in stainless steel or 18 karat gold, or with a feminine crocodile strap, while diamonds adorn its more precious renditions. The most exclusive pieces also feature more than 200 diamonds on the horsebit links around the case, creating a unique play of light with the radiant reflections of white gold. The dials come in a choice of materials and the watch is available in two sizes.
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FOR HER
VERSACE DV One The Versace DV One embodies all that the luxury goods house stands for, at its best. Versace has developed this watch in an anti-scratch, hypoallergenic, shiny ceramic - second only to diamonds in hardness and resistance. The watch is now available in a new version enhanced by the lunette being adorned with baguette-cut diamonds, rubies and sapphires, a treatment which imbues it with an added aura of sophistication. The bottom of the case is personalized with the edition number and Versace’s logo in relief.
VDB Lace Van Der Bauwede Genève has dared to create a sheer seduction watch line embodying a refined and sensual blend. Born from a subtle match between embroidery and technical performance, the LACE collection innovative appearance is reinforced by a jewellery dial featuring lace and tulle motifs. Adding a particularly sensual note, the gothic 6 and 9 numerals are clothed in diamonds. The “sloping” rectangular shaped case gently and harmoniously encircles the wrist. The year’s best selling ladies’model now comes in a resolutely feminine version featuring a diamond-pavé yellow gold case teamed with a lacework or mink fur strap.
TISSOT T-Tuch Danica Patrick retains all her femininity, in a world where performance is what really matters and where timing is key. Tissot is therefore proud to be creating a new limited edition timepiece for this exceptional ambassador competing in a man’s world on the IndyCar® circuit. Her new T-Touch with a feminine polished titanium case naturally comes with a mother-of-pearl dial set with diamonds and teamed with a matching white rubber strap. Ultimate lightness, ultimate technology and ultimate chic! The special case back depicting an Indy racing car, features Danica’s engraved signature and the limited edition number out of a total of 2007 units.
ULYSSE NARDIN Dual Time Lady Meeting the ever increasing desire of ladies to combine the mechanics of time with jewelry, Ulysse Nardin Dual Time Lady is the perfect combination of both style and substance. Protected by a sapphire exhibition case back, the diamond-set rotor of the gold execution sparkles gracefully, all the while fulfilling its duty in winding the mechanism. The diamond hour markers as well as the diamond-set roman figures serve to enhance the beauty of the mother of pearl dial. The hour hand adjusts forward or backward by pressing the plus (+) or minus (-) pushers. Each watch case is individually numbered.
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BERTOLUCCI Stella Bertolucci creatively plays with stars to surprise you with STELLA. Born from the unique alliance of organic inspiration and jewelry creativity, the sensual and living shapes come to life under a firework of stones in enchanting colours. With STELLA, Bertolucci imposes and brings “Haute Couture” in the demanding world of watchmaking while opening and exploring new avenues in inspired creativity and Savoir-Faire. At dawn, when the first light caresses the turquoise waters of the Mediterranean coves, STELLA is the good luck morning star. Dressed up in a rich coat made of thousands of gold pearls, STELLA sparkles under sunshine. Enhanced with fine lines of full cut diamonds on its ridge, the 18 carat yellow gold plays with incomparable lustre and tantalizing charm.
ZENITH Star Open Sea A shell meets a star: these Zenith creations, straight from the sea, come in two sizes, the El Primero chronograph or the Elite calibre. On the dial, a good fairy has deposited nine pearls. Slivers of eternity of varying size, they mark the hours, conversing with a frolic of starfish that outline a power reserve here, a small second hand or chronometer there. Water-resistant up to 100 metres and with a sapphire crystal back, the curved case, in pink or yellow gold, is chased with a starburst of 21 diamonds representing a total of 0.3ct. Shargreen skin straps were a natural choice.
HERMES Passe-passe With Passe-passe, Hermès combines watchmaking creativity and saddle-making skills in an exclusive new strap system. A screw on the back of the watch releases the leather strap running through the case-back in a simple and playful gesture, a clever conjuring trick known only to the woman wearing it. Crafted from the finest leathers and fashioned in the grand Hermès tradition, the straps embody ingrained perfection that is far more than skin deep, available in a range of elegant and refined colours. Available in three sizes, adorned with either natural white mother-of-pearl, white, coppery brown, blue or silver-coloured dials. Steel meets diamonds in a jewellery version of the small and medium-sized models.
GEVRIL Serenade Avenue of America’s Serenade, Gevril luxury line edited in 18k rose gold displays a silvered guilloché dial, patented automatic movement with dual time and light zones, set with a Louisiana crocodile leather strap, comes in a limited edition of 50 pieces (100 pieces for the 18K white gold).
PATEK PHILIPPE- Calatrava Patek Philippe is dedicating a new, very refined version of its famous Calatrava Travel Time to frequent travellers. The pink or white gold case, enhanced with sparkling diamonds, complements the delicate two-tone dials in natural motherof-pearl. Thanks to two corrector buttons integrated into the case middle, the hand indicating local time jumps forward or backward one hour at a time to provide a simultaneous reading of the time in two different parts of the world.
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HAUTE HORLOGERIE
GAMBLING I T’S PLAY TI ME
by Simone Sanfratello
Who thought that the precision of the greatest watchmaking complications could never harmonize with the uncertainty of games of chance? Girard-Perregaux merges these two worlds in one exclusive Haute Horlogerie model of unexpected complexity. More than original, the Vintage 1945 Jackpot Tourbillon shakes up accepted traditions. For the first time, a watch combines a Tourbillon and a slot machine equipped with a striking mechanism in perfect proportion with the Vintage 1945 case. The technology that breathes life into this unique wonder has nothing to do with chance. For this exceptional watch, destined to be worn on the wrists of a privileged few, the concentration on detail involved an 80
intricate choice of the symbols. These are reproductions of those found in the first mechanical slot machine, the famous “Liberty Bell”, invented at the end of the 19th century and so named with reference to the independence of the United States of America. On the gold reels, hollowed out and then delicately lacquered, the suits of spades, hearts, diamonds, horseshoes and the famous bells, appear at random. To attain this prowess, the challenges were numerous: associating the art of watchmaking with a gaming machine and succeeding in miniaturizing and integrating all the functions. The magic of the game is set in motion by pulling the handle on the right side of the case. The three reels spin
Piaget Altiplano Pendant-watch shaped like a casino chip 18k white gold case and dial, with grand feu enamelling applied according to the champlevé technique, set with 158 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 0.6 ct). Piaget 56P quartz movement. Limelight Party Pair of craps dice Diamond-set dice: 18k white gold case and dial set with 1060 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 10.6 cts). Dice numbers set with 21 closed-set rubies (approx. 3.1 cts). Piaget 56P quartz movement. Ruby-pavé dice: 18k white gold case set with 1056 rubies (approx. 18.8 cts). Dice numbers set with 21 closed-set brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 2.1 cts). Ring: 18k white gold Limelight Party ring set with 241 brilliant-cut diamonds (3.80 cts), and 243 rubies (5.10 cts).
and then stop randomly on one of the possible five symbols, while a hammer strikes a gong, producing the happy chime reminiscent of the gaming machines in a casino. Out of the 125 combinations, only one represents the jackpot: the three bells in a row. Fitted with a crystal back revealing the movement, the Vintage 1945 Jackpot Tourbillon illustrates Girard Perregaux’s complete mastery in matters of rare and precious timekeepers. In this example, the Manufacture combines its art with the pleasure of an exclusive object of amusement. Dare we wager that lovers of games of chance will not be the only people to fall under its spell? Vintage 1945 Jackpot Tourbillon
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speed
MACHINES by Noah Joseph
Craftsmanship. Design. Prestige. Exclusivity. Speak to any Swiss horloger or European sportscar maker, and both will tell you that these are qualities which their customers value in equal measure. Although their creations come in entirely different packages, the common attributes between them run in such close parallel that craftsmen from both industries have been coming together to jointly offer their clientele timepieces that draw their inspiration from the most exclusive of high-performance automobiles. While the production of chronometers infused with design
elements borrowed from automobiles and designed for drivers is nothing new in the watchmaking field, recent collaborations between some of Switzerland’s most exclusive clockworks ateliers and Europe’s most elite automobile manufacturers have resulted in timepieces specifically designed and crafted after the fastest supercars ever to grace the roadways. A difficult task though it was to choose just four, here we present you with some of the best and latest examples of automotive-inspired timepieces and the high-performance automobiles from which they draw their inspiration.
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100 in a scant two-and-a-half seconds. To achieve these eclipsing performance figures, the Veyron essentially has two very powerful engines grafted together. Instead of a 4liter, 500-horsepower twin-turbo V8 – which in any other light would be considered immensely powerful – the Bugatti has a completely unique 8-liter, 1000-hp quad-turbo W16.
Bugatti and Parmigiani The history of the supercar is marked with one-upmanship. Every so many years, the previous benchmark is exceeded by mere fractions of a second and single miles-per-hour. The Bugatti Veyron, however, was built to shatter all the standing records in spectacular style. If you think 200 km/h is already twice as fast as you’ll ever go, double that and you begin to understand the Veyron’s capabilities. On its way to a 400 km/h top speed, it will reach 84
While many supercars are essentially racing machines detuned for the road, the car that revived the stoic Bugatti name is elegantly appointed as the finest grand touring machine money can buy…although at $1 million, few will have that privilege. The Bugatti Veyron stands leagues above the fastest automobiles ever produced, and the most exclusive as well. To create a wristwatch worthy of carrying the same name, Bugatti teamed up with elite watchmakers Parmigiani Fleurier, who made a timepiece just as unique. The Parmigiani Fleurier Bugatti 370 is built around a manual movement mounted in a transverse cylinder. The watch’s face is mounted sideways to allow for viewing without removing one’s hands from the wheel, and the unique movement is visible through the 18-karat gold encasing. The timepiece, whose mechanics were rumored to take as long to develop as the Veyron itself, was built in a very limited series of 150, rivaling the supercar which inspired its creation for exclusivity.
Koenigsegg and Quinting Sweden’s automotive industry is known more for boxy station wagons and quirky hatchbacks, but Koenigsegg set out to confound expectations by producing a supercar of such epic capabilities as to rival the best from Germany and Italy. The latest Koenigsegg CCX stands as the only supercar that comes anywhere near keeping pace with the inimitable Bugatti Veyron. However the Koenigsegg takes the opposite approach by applying racecar technologies to a package that pushes the limits of public highway legality. Motivated by a twin-supercharged V8 tuned to produce over 800 horsepower, the CCX hits 60 mph (100 km/h) in just 3.1 seconds and tops out at 245 mph (395 km/h), just missing the Veyron’s mark but with an engine closer to half its size. Nearly every parameter is adjustable according to the driver’s specifications, and the roof panel can be removed to offer an open-cockpit performance experience. At the hands of a skilled driver, the Koenigsegg could very well be the best-performing supercar ever made. On his wrist, however, could be one of the most distinctive automotive timepieces ever devised. But while other examples are distinguished by what you can see, what makes this one special is what you can’t. Some watches allow you to see the entire movement, but the timepieces crafted by elite watchmaker Quinting allows you to see right through the
mechanism, painstakingly crafted from finely-cut sapphire crystal to produce an entirely transparent jewel movement. For Koenigsegg owners, Quinting offers two models: the Advance, whose otherwise transparent face is adorned with a shape mimicking the Koenigsegg’s multi-spoked wheels, and the even more impressive Ghost chronograph. “Seeing is believing”, as the saying goes, but like a Koenigsegg supercar rapidly disappearing over the horizon, not seeing is simply unbelievable.
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Pagani and Cvstos Few automobiles epitomize the label “exotic” quite as emphatically as the Pagani Zonda. Although produced by a small, independent outfit, the Zonda stands up to the fastest supercars made by the most well-established names in the business. A specialist in alternative construction materials, Horacio Pagani left Lamborghini and collaborated with the late fivetime F1 champion Juan Manuel Fangio to produce a unique supercar. Built in Modena, the sportscar capital of the world, the incredibly light-weight wonder is powered by a V12 engine produced specially for the Zonda by Mercedes-Benz’ own in-house performance division AMG, tuned to generate nearly 600 horsepower in the latest Zonda F. Although the car draws on the most advanced materials in its construction, exquisite bespoke leather trims the Zonda’s interior, rounded off by unique touches like leather straps to secure the hood, making for a delectable blend of the old and the new. Like Pagani, Cvstos is a new company whose creations blend 86
old-world craftsmanship with new-world design to produce the most exquisite machines on the market. It was only fitting that the two outfits should come together to offer the Cvstos Pagani Zonda F Stopwatch, a chronograph which draws its design cues for every detail from its namesake supercar, from the momentum disc visible through the sapphire caseback to the sub-dials arranged like the Zonda’s distinctive exhaust layout. The performance timepiece is available in rose gold, yellow gold or titanium, and stands out on the wrist like the Zonda stands out on the street.
McLaren-Mercedes and TAG Heuer The alliance of McLaren and Mercedes-Benz – two of the biggest names in motorsports – could hardly be contained by the race track, and so the two collaborated to give birth to the Mercedes SLR McLaren. The car sits atop the German automaker’s range as a razor-sharp grand touring machine capable of keeping pace with – or even passing – the most extreme supercars from Italy. After four years on the market, its manufacturers recently announced the production of a convertible roadster version, of which 1000 will be built at McLaren’s factory in Woking, England. Blending design elements borrowed from the original 1955 SLR and the latest McLaren-Mercedes Formula One cars, the sleek SLR features construction from the latest carbon composites. Mercedes engineers managed to get a whopping 617 horsepower out of the car’s supercharged 5.5-liter V8, mounted in front and driving the rear wheels, in typical Mercedes style, through a 5-speed automatic transmission. The modern “silver arrow” rockets to sixty in just 3.7 seconds and tops out at 208 mph (334 km/h), while the latest carbon ceramic brakes help the driver keep the mind-bending speed in check.
To match the fruits of such an historic collaboration, McLaren and Mercedes teamed up with watchmaking giant TAG Heuer, a marque that itself has a long history in motorsports. The third special-edition SLR chronograph was unveiled at the recently-concluded BaselWorld exposition. Like its predecessor, the latest TAG Heuer SLR for Mercedes-Benz features a chronograph movement operated by push-buttons uniquely placed next to the bezel, instead of on the side of the case. This latest version also features a unique double bezel that eliminates the trade-off between watches for divers and watches for drivers. The stainless steel timepiece can be had with either a steel bracelet or rubber strap and is limited to 3500 units. In any field, the best colorations give both parties the opportunity to do what they do best, in compliment of each other. The supercars you see here, and those that will follow, will forever continue to run laps around race tracks, never relenting from the pursuit of one more millisecond off of lap times. The wristwatches created to compliment them, meanwhile, will always be ready to time them, in style just as spectacular and innovative as the cars that inspired their design.
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EVENTS
SWISSDESIGN
in milan
by Alice Visin & Massimiliano Pantieri
LESS AND LESS A FURNITURE SHOW, MORE AND MORE A COLLECTIVE EVENT, THE 46TH SALONE INTERNAZIONALE DEL MOBILE HELD IN MILAN JUST CLOSED ITS DOORS LAST APRIL, REAFFIRMING ITSELF AS THE MOST IMPORTANT INTERNATIONAL SHOWCASE AND SIGNIFICANT CROSSROADS FOR CULTURAL EXCHANGES.
in this page: Tokujin for Moroso
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The endless and exhausting chase for available spaces even the smallest and overpaid ones - where to exhibit and propose new ideas is finally over. For one week, the Italian fashion capital of Milan transforms itself: workshops, garages, inside courtyards and even sidewalks become fantastic theatrical stages for design wonders. The transformation of pumpkins into coaches, with no magic wand, incredibly happens under your eyes. The crowded streets become stalls themselves. Jams of people swallowed by front doors from which they will reappear later on, loaded with pamphlets, gadgets, and catalogues, astonished by their findings and yet eager for more. While Japanese designer Tokujin turns the space of Moroso into charming clouds of transparent straws, Molteni lines the shop windows in black inviting people to peep through small bi-dimensional locks. Meritalia darkens spaces and draws eyes on white covered glasses through which one may perceive Starbus by M. Bellini: air armchairs upholstered with transparent fabric, provided with do-it-yourself recipes. A little piece of dream to be seen through the hole of a magic box. A constant flow of people wandering through stands and exhibitions in an apparently random way. Its the kind of public who neither clap nor hiss, but ,be sure, their choices will be well reasoned when the moment comes. Swiss cheese-maker Emmentaler, in collaboration with Spazio Forma, presents “Holes, the magic of empty spaces”. Over forty eight images from all over the world, selected by Reuters/Contrasto, give life to a visual journey where the central topic is the “hole” seen as a positive metaphor of our times, a magic passage, a fullness of meaning instead of emptiness. At Spazio Prada, German artist Tobias Rehberger proposes boxes where it is possible to listen to actors’ thoughts, as well as a soundproof black tunnel in which to either get lost or get found. Holes which reintroduce the experience of the subjectivity of perception.
Coat rack by Big Game
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BULB by Double Jeux
BOLD by Big Game
Riddled objects, lightened of matter but not dematerialized. Spazio Opos proposes Futurevintage, sealed cans containing design objects not to be opened before expiration date, in order to obtain a brand new vintage product a few years later. Marcel Wanders designs Skygarden for Flos, an hanging lamp hiding a cupola di gesso (dome of cholk) with little craters reminding the moon surface. In this colourful international panorama, Swiss Design finds its own space, proposing several interesting creative realities. L’Ecole Cantonale d’Art de Lausanne chooses young talented Swiss artists - some of which already exposed in previous editions of the Show – and reunites them for a poetic reinterpretation of common objects. 90
Double Jeux designers Gaillard and Esposito present several interesting items such as: Bulb, a ceiling light made of connections of modules in the shapes of bulbs in black PMMA; Cheesy, the stainless steel cheese grater’s allusive holes shave off the cheese in different sizes of chips to vary textures and sensations; D-Tour, a stainless steel floor lamp the legs of which makes a bend to reveal the switch and also to shape a handle. In connection with the Salone del Mobile, at the Swiss cultural centre in Milan, the three designers from Big-Game, Grégoire Jeanmonod (CH), Elric Petit (B) and Augustin Scott de Martinville (F), create the “plus is more” collection. Taking basic elements as starting points, such as a material, a principle or an archetype, Big-game transforms them in a simple way to design functional objects.
BIG - GAME
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PORTRAIT
The
BROS. by Oliver Gemperle
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This is a story about two brothers and a sewing machine turning their roommate’s life into living hell. And then it’s the story of Freitag «freeway-bags made in Switzerland». In the early nineties I moved away from home and got an apartment with the Freitag Bros. as my roommates. You’re young – you make mistakes, right? This was in Zurich, the city everybody knows from postcards as a place of riches, swans and a blue lake coloured in post-production. Only I wasn’t rich, and our apartment was next to the transit route Germany – Italy which cuts Zurich in half like a chainsaw cuts a wedding cake. Continuous mini-quakes invading the building, making paint and mortar fall from the ceiling in plate-sized chunks and cracks. Cracks in our walls. Scientists have proven that the permanent acoustic emissions from highways are extremely unhealthy: Nervous stress, light sleep, depressions and, inevitably, straight-out insanity. In reality the first couple of months with Markus and Daniel were bliss. But then my seemingly sane and friendly
roommates started doing things that would drive you more nuts quicker than any noise imaginable. I was on unemployment, got up at noon and tried to think of a story that would turn into my first novel. Roommate Markus Freitag was different. Hyperactive as he was – even in those times – he laid down the beginning of a story which I am about to tell here. One morning Markus attached a trailer to his bike and pedaled to a nearby industrial zone. When he came back it was with the old tarpaulin from a cargo truck. Lugging it up to the fifth floor he started scrubbing it in the bathtub. He then laid it out in his room between mattress and stereo, and drew cut lines on it: the prototype of the FREITAG bag. Our comparatively comfy apartment now radically changed as did my life. For weeks the bathtub would be full of black, smelly water polluted with dirty tarpaulins. The hall was stacked with boxes of ‘precious materials’: old bicycle inner tubes, seat belts saved from the ravaging teeth of junkyard
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dogs and more, many more stinking tarpaulins. The kitchen table was replaced with a preindustrial sewing machine. Its sound overruled anything you’ve ever heard chattering down a street. Traffic was closing in on me from all sides. Daniel Freitag had been able to test their bag on the back of a hard-core bike messenger in San Francisco – and when he returned to Zurich from his globetrot, he took the last square foot of our apartment and installed a computer. Packing lists, invoicing, addresses: the printer added a new shade of yellow to the acoustic landscape of what I had to call my home. Apparently to reimburse me for my pain and suffering, they gave me two Freewaybags – a big one and a small one. The original models. Garbage turned into robust and a sort of elegant-looking messenger bags. And not one was like the other. Drawing the cutlines on the printed tarpaulins, Daniel 94
and Markus art-directed the design of every single bag. I hadn’t thought of this project as a business before, but slowly it dawned on me that they might be more likely to go places with their bags than I was to go with my novel. The rent on my new apartment is bordering on exorbitant, but I managed to relocate to a quiet side-street. The walls are freshly painted, and I am the proud owner / operator of gadgets like remote-controlled heating in the bathroom. It even heats my towel rack. The Freitag Bros. are no longer making their bags in their apartment. They’ve got themselves a nice ’n neat little business with 40 employees, a worthwhile home page (www.freitag.ch) and all that. The bags aren’t sewn on-site anymore, they are partially outsourced to a manufacturing facility employing disabled people. So you’ve got that social
aspect too – apart from the ecological aspect of wearing totally recycled materials. This is serious. Words like «innovation», «creativity» and «niches» and other linguistic straws people use to make sense in the area of consumer products feel right at home here. At this point I would like to describe an encounter I had in New York not long ago: I was in the city to do research for my new novel. I was geared to get a piece of the clubbing. The Lower East Side – I went down there. I found a bar that was pretty empty in terms of furniture – maybe it had only been opened for a couple of hours, maybe it was meant to be that way – you never know in these places ... Many people there, their number and dresscode suggesting I was at the hip place at the right time. Bingo. When I approached the bar for a drink, one seriously down-
and-out looking guy looked me over: «Nice jacket,» he said, referring to my Swiss nickel-and-dime raincoat. I only wear it when it’s raining cats and dogs. «Looks a bit like those FREITAG bags! Do you know them?» I check to make sure that I’m not wearing a FREITAG bag myself (we know the tricks), and started telling the guy my story. He kept crying out: «Wow! That must have been GREAT FUN!» He was pretty nice otherwise though. Summing it up, all I can tell people who want to get themselves a FREITAG bag is: «People, the FREITAG bag is still one solid piece of equipment – they’re nice, and the two guys certainly deserve their success. Respect, brothers!»
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ACCESSORIES
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Haute Haute Ecriture
Ecriture only for a few...
Created in the Alfred Dunhill easthetic, Sentryman, a new collection of writing instruments and accessories, is classic dunhill and typifies the bold, uncomplicated and masculine design that has evolved over more than a century of creating luxury items for discriminating men. Pens have been an important part of dunhill since the early 20th century and the increasingly electronic world of the early 21st century, an exquisitely designed, beautifully engineered high quality writing instrument remains a thing of beauty while handwritten note is as much a stylish gesture as a means of communication. A Sentryman pen is designed to be both comfortable in the hand and across the page. Close students of the dunhill style will recognize a silhouette inspired by pieces in the dunhill archive while the epistolary link is wittily recalled in the design of the pen cap which was inspired by the tops of Britain’s old style pillar boxes. The architecture of the Sentryman pen, solid without being overscaled, lends itself to interpretation in a variety of finishes. In addition to the go-anywhere elegance of black resin, finished with either gold or white metal detailing, there is a highly contemporary woven carbon fibre finish, while a subtle Deco feel is evoked in the elegant engine turning of the all metal version. The real coup de thÊatre is of course the 112 diamond cap and Swarovski crystal-covered barrel of the black tie incarnation of this iconic writing instrument.
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Watch brands mentioned in this issue:
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BRAND INDEX
98
Audemars Piguet Ball Watch Baume & Mercier Bertolucci Blancpain Breguet Breitling Bvlgari Calvin Klein Cartier Chanel Chopard Concord Corum Cuervos y Sobrinos Cvstos De Bethune DeGrisogono Dewitt Dior Dunhill Ebel Fogal Freitag Gc Gevril Girard-Perregaux Greubel Forsey Gucci Hamilton Harry Winston Hermes Hublot IWC Jaeger LeCoultre Leon Hatot Longines Maurice Lacroix Movado Omega Oris Parmigiani Fleurier Patek Philippe Perrelet Piaget Quinting Raymond Weil Richard Mille Rolex Romain Jerome TAG Heuer Tissot Ulysse Nardin Urverk Van Cleef & Arpels Van Der Bawede Versace Versus Victorinox Zenith
www.audemarspiguet.com www.ballwatch.com www.baume-et-mercier.com www.bertolucci-watches.com www.blancpain.com www.breguet.com www.breitling.com www.bulgari.com www.swatchgroup.com www.cartier.com www.chanel.com www.chopard.com www.concord.ch www.corum.ch www.cuervoysobrinos.com www.cvstos.com www.debethune.ch www.degrisogono.com www.dewitt.ch www.dior.com www.dunhill..com www.ebel.ch www.fogal.ch www.freitag.ch www.guess.com www.gevril.ch www.girard-perregaux.com www.greubelforsey.ch www.gucci.com www.hamiltonwatch.com www.harry-winston.com www.hermes.com www.hublot.com www.iwc.ch www.jaeger-lecoultre.com www.leonhatot.com www.longines.com www.mauricelacroix.com www.movado.com www.omega.ch www.oris.ch www.parmigiani.ch www.patek.com www.perrelet.com www.piaget.com www.quinting-watches.com www.raymond-weil.com www.richardmille.com www.rolex.com www.romainjerome.ch www.tagheuer.com www.tissot.ch www.ulysse-nardin.com www.urwerk.ch www.vancleef-arpels.com www.vdb.ch www.versacepreciousitems.com www.vertime.com www.victorinoxswissarmy.com www.zenith-watches.com
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CHRONO ALTIMETER
COMPASS METEO
THERMO ALARM
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Danica Patrick, IndyCar速 Series Driver
More
than a watch Tissot, Innovators by Tradition. Titanium, Scratchproof tactile sapphire crystal, Swiss ETA movement, Water resistant to 30m/100ft 6 functions: compass, altimeter, barometer, thermometer, alarm and chrono
www.tissot.ch