A Fresh Take on Food
Dec ‘10/Jan ‘11
Sustainable Seafood- sashimi style
Homemade Holiday Gifts Cooking Fast, Fresh & Green Hearty Braises Coq au Vin and Moroccan chicken Tagine
A Fresh Take on Food
Can you believe it? December already. The weather here in Connecticut is verging on bitter and my greatest inclination is to snuggle up and keep warm. Have you ever noticed that our body goes into a sort of hibernation mode during the colder months? We, almost instinctively, gravitate towards foods that are higher in fat and carbohydrates in order to pack on those infamous winter pounds… similar to a bear’s feast before their slumber. It might seem almost un-natural, even impossible, to eat as healthy during the winter as we do during the summer. But it is possible to “hibernate” healthfully with and abundance of nourishing winter root veggies, like beets, turnips, rutabaga, carrots, and hearty greens like kale. In this issue you’ll find healthy vegetable dishes and hearty soups, stews and braises- the kinds of foods that cook low and slow (but not too slow), filling your home with wonderful aromas. Perfect for cold winter days. I challenge you to redefine your internal urges by getting creative in your kitchen and putting more hearty winter produce on your plates.
Dec ‘10/Jan ‘11
Editor-in-Chief/Publisher Jennifer Spaide
Photographer/Food Stylist Brannon Conza
Logo Design Maya Szatai
Tech Support Jeremy Sanderson
www.simpliciousmag.com
Here’s to a happy and healthy hibernation… For questions and comments, and information on advertising or editorial contributions, contact: Jennifer Spaide jennifer@simpliciousmag.com PO Box 813, New Canaan, CT 06840 (203) 247-2002
Happy Holidays,
© 2010/2011 All Rights Reserved. Simplicious / Jennifer Spaide
Jen Spaide
©Simplicious Dec ‘10/Jan ’11
www.simpliciousmag.com
Contents
Contributors
Homemade for the Holidays… pg 4
Brannon Conza is a professional photographer serving NY's Hudson Valley and Fairfield Cty, CT. Although she specializes in child & family lifestyle portraiture, her love of cooking, photojournalism and advertising has led her to several side projects including product shoots and food photography. When Brannon isn’t behind the lens, you can find her at home with her husband, three young sons, two cats, and two retired racing greyhounds. Her photos include the cover, Tomatillo Salsa pg 7, Brie en Croute pg 9, Coq au Vin pg 13, Moroccan Tagine pg 14, and Wild Salmon en Papillote pg 18. www.brannonphoto.com ___________________________________________
Consumable gifts for food-loving family & friends
Sugarcoat Your Holiday Season… pg 5 Naturally sweetened
Simplicious Picks… pg 9 Fave Items for Green Living
Fast, Fresh & Green… pg 10 Interview with cookbook author Susie Middleton
Juicing to Health… pg 12 Harvesting the Healing Power of Produce
In the Brazilian Kitchen… pg 15 Recipes from Chef Leticia Moreinos Schwartz
Vitamin Sea... pg 17 Turning to the sea for health and longevity
Enduring the Race… pg 18 Sustainable Seafood with local chef & expert, Bun Lai
©Simplicious Dec ‘10/Jan ’11
Chelsea Fyrberg is a holistic nutritionist and the owner of Nutrition Simplified, a wellness consulting company in Southern Maine. She is devoted to inspiring and motivating individuals to create positive changes, resulting in a healthier and happier lifestyle. Read her piece, Sugarcoat your Holiday Season…Naturally, on page 5 www.nutritionsimplified.net ___________________________________________ Matthew Perez grew up eating a wide variety of traditional dishes and took an early interest in cooking. He graduated from the Culinary Institute of America and has worked as Sous Chef at Gigi’s Trattoria in Rhinebeck New York and Chef de Cuisine of the Golden Rock Hotel in Nevis, West Indies before joining the team at Frasca Food & Wine in Boulder, Colorado. Matthew is currently the Chef de Partie at this nationally renowned James Beard Award winning Italian restaurant that champions local farmers and Colorado’s agricultural diversity. View his Honey Baked Squash pg 20
www.simpliciousmag.com
Homemade for the Holidays Have you noticed? The holidays have grown a deep shade of green… the shade of money that is. Over the years the season has changed from one of Tiny-Tim appreciation for the important things in life, to a season of Scroogely materialism and consumerism. The ominous project of fighting the crowds to find “the perfect” gifts for family, friends and co-workers can make the spirited giving and receiving of gifts feel more like a burden than a blessing. So this year, give gifts that are consumable, practical, homemade, and/or eco-friendly. These five ideas are sure to lighten your load, brighten your spirit and bring a smile to those who are lucky enough to receive them. 1. Bake. Cookies, cakes, pies, breads, granola… Use a family favorite or secret recipe and include a copy of the recipe as part of the gift. Tie your package up with a vintageinspired dish cloth and attach matching or coordinating oven mits. 2. Preserve. Jams, jellies, pickled veggies, chutneys… Include the recipe along with a cookbook, such as Sherri Brooks Vinton’s Put ‘em Up! and maybe a few canning jars to get your gift receiver started. 3. Plant. An indoor herb garden is a great gift for the home cook. Give a selection of culinary staples like basil, parsley and chives so that fresh herbs are always on hand… even in the dead of the winter. Don’t want to get your hands dirty? Give an indoor herb garden kit. 4. Make. Infused oils and vinegars, flavored sugars, and salts. These items are fun to make and you are really only limited by your own imagination. Infuse oils and vinegars by steeping fresh herbs and/or spices in your liquid for up to a week in an airtight glass jar stored in a cool, dark place; strain and pour into a decorative bottle. Flavor sugars and salts by combining dried ground herbs and spices, or fresh citrus zests, with sugar or salt, then packing in a decorative jar. For a particularly festive gift, give a variety of infused liquors. 5. Share. Give a gift that keeps on giving by purchasing your friend or family member a share in local CSA. More and more farms are offering winter produce but if this is not an option in your area, you can purchase one that will start up in the spring. And don’t forget to wrap responsibly and send your holiday greetings in plantable holiday cards (card with seeds embedded in them)!
©Simplicious Dec ‘10/Jan ’11
www.simpliciousmag.com
Sugarcoat Your Holiday Season... Naturally! By Chelsea Fyrberg, MS, CHHP
Americans consume approximately 160 pounds of sugar per year. That equates to 53 teaspoons of sugar every day! If you’re like most people, you probably battle from the “I really want to, but I really shouldn’t” battle during the holiday season when you’re bombarded with tempting baked goods and treats. Well, get ready to put your weapons down and learn how being sugar savvy can help keep your holidays sweet, naturally! Reject refinement Refined white sugar is 99 percent pure sucrose, a simple carbohydrate that is infamous for spiking blood sugar and then causing it to suddenly crash. This process makes us feel crabby and hungry, only to find ourselves craving more sweets and inevitably setting ourselves up for yet another blood sugar rollercoaster ride. Having been leached of all its nutrients during refinement, white sugar wreaks havoc within our bodies, depressing our immune system and fogging up our minds. Think again about artificial sweeteners Artificial sweeteners are just devils in disguise. While they may save on calories when compared to refined white sugar, they’re completely devoid of any nutritional value. Not to mention they act as a foreign chemical within our bodies, which confuses our metabolic cycle. Researchers have found that the widespread use of artificial sweeteners may actually make it harder for people to control their appetite and lose weight. On top of that, these chemicals have been known to cause headaches, dizziness, anxiety attacks, blurred vision, hyperactivity, tinnitus, increased appetite, insomnia and could pose a cancer risk with prolonged use. Revamp your sugarplums! Unlike refined white sugar and artificial sweeteners, natural sugar alternatives contain more vitamins, minerals and complex carbohydrates, allowing your body to absorb them more slowly and ultimately keeping our blood sugar and cravings in check. Help win your Battle of the Sweet Tooth by using these healthy, and natural, sugar substitutes: Agave Nectar Substitute 3/4 cup agave for 1 cup sugar (reduce liquid in recipe by 1/4 cup)
Agave nectar has a honey-like consistency and ranks low on the Glycemic Index, meaning it does not affect blood sugar as much as white sugar. Extracted from the agave plant, this natural sweetener is rich in vitamins B, C, D, and E, as well as calcium, iron, phosphorus, magnesium, potassium, selenium, and chromium. Brown Rice Syrup Substitute 1 cup brown rice syrup for 1 cup sugar (reduce liquid in recipe by 1/4 cup)
This amber-colored syrup is less sweet than white sugar with mild butterscotch flavor. Brown rice syrup is made by fermenting rice with enzymes, then straining and simmering the liquid until thick. It is largely made up of complex carbohydrates and therefore absorbed slowly by the body. Pure Maple Syrup Substitute ¾ cup maple syrup for 1 cup sugar (reduce liquid in recipe by 1/4 cup)
Maple syrup is an excellent source of manganese and a good source of zinc. Made from the sap of maple trees, maple syrup enhances the health of the immune and cardiovascular systems. Look for “Grade B” as it’s the least processed and is also thicker, darker, and better for baking. Raw Honey Substitute ¾ cup honey for 1 cup sugar (reduce liquid in recipe by 2 Tbs)
Extracted from flower nectar by bees, honey is superior to sugar in that it has more vitamins and minerals, is 25 to 50%
©Simplicious Dec ‘10/Jan ’11
www.simpliciousmag.com
sweeter, and doesn’t raise blood sugar as fast. Honey metabolizes fat in the body and makes it available to be used as energy. It also eliminates toxins, aids bowel movements and improves digestion. Rapadura Substitute 1 cup rapadura for 1 cup sugar
Rapadura is a delicious sticky brown powder that is made from unbleached, unrefined dehydrated cane sugar juice. It is an excellent source of iron, calcium, vitamin B6, potassium and chromium. Stevia Substitute 1 tsp powdered or liquid stevia for 1 cup sugar
Stevia is a natural herb that has zero calories and can be found in leaf, liquid, and powdered forms, all known to be 200 to 300 times sweeter than sugar. Unprocessed stevia contains iron, phosphorus, calcium, potassium, magnesium, and zinc.
California Sunshine Muffins Recipe and photo courtesy of Jenna Keller Atchison Happy Little Vegans blog http://happylittlevegans.com/wordpress Use all-purpose flour in place of white rice flour if you don’t have it on hand; and rapadura sugar if you don’t have vegan. These muffins can also be made with thawed frozen blueberries. Just be prepared for their juices to bleed a bit and change the color of your batter. What better way to get those creative juices flowing then with a tasty breakfast muffin like this. We can all benefit from eating more blueberries. These plump little fruits are packed with antioxidants, not-tomention a major fighter against those pesky free radicals; and did you know they’re an excellent source of vitamin C? These nutrient rich muffins taste as good as they look. 1/2 cup raisins 3/4 cup fresh blueberries 1/2 cup Bob’s Red Mill All Purp Flour 1 cup white rice flour 2 tsp baking powder 1/2 tsp baking soda 1/2 tsp ground cinnamon 1/2 tsp ground nutmeg 1/4 cup vegan sugar 1/2 tsp salt 1 cup unsweetened vanilla almond milk 1/4 cup canola oil 1 tsp vanilla extract 1 cup shredded carrots (I used the prepackaged kind, use more or less carrots to your liking) Preheat oven to 400. Spray muffin pan with nonstick spray. Using a wooden spoon, in a mixing bowl, combine the flours, baking powder, baking soda, cinnamon, nutmeg, sugar and salt. In another bowl, combine the milk, oil, and vanilla. Fold the wet ingredients into the dry. Add blueberries, raisins, and carrots. Gently fold again until mixed well. Fill each muffin tin 3/4 full. Bake 18-22 minutes until a toothpick comes out clean. Let them cool, if you can wait. Serve with an energy smoothie.
©Simplicious Dec ‘10/Jan ’11
www.simpliciousmag.com
Tomatillo Salsa
Artichoke and Haricot Vert Sauté
Makes about 6 cups
Serves 6-8 I like to use Monterey Farms artichoke hearts in this recipe. They are vacuum sealed instead of canned so they retain a brighter, fresher flavor and texture. Find them at your local Whole Foods Market. 2 lb haricot vert, trimmed 12 oz package artichoke hearts ½ red onion, thinly sliced ½ cup slivered almonds Juice of 1 lemon ¼ cup olive oil
This rustic “salsa verde” is best when the veggies are charred on a grill. But if you don’t have a grill, or the weather does not permit, you can certainly roast them at 350˚until tender. Serve as an alternative to salsa, over eggs for a kicked up breakfast, or with your favorite Mexican food. 3 lbs tomatillos, husks removed 3-4 jalapenos 1 yellow onion, peeled & quartered 4-6 garlic cloves ¼ cup cilantro ¼ cup parsley 3 tbsp lime juice ¼ cup olive oil Salt and pepper to taste
Place the almonds on a sheet pan and place in a 325˚ oven to toast for 5-7 minutes. Keep an eye on them so the almonds don’t burn. Blanch the green beans in a large pot of salted, boiling water until al dente, about 3-5 minutes. Remove and place in an ice bath or rinse under cold water to cool. This will stop the cooking and set the bright green color. In a large sauté pan, heat the olive oil. Add the onions and quickly sauté. Add the green beans, artichoke hearts, toasted almonds, and lemon juice. Toss quickly to warm through. Season with salt and pepper.
Heat grill to medium-high. Drizzle the tomatillos, jalapenos, onion and garlic with olive oil. Season with salt and pepper. Grill until veggies begin to char and are tender. Remove and let cool. Carefully remove some of the jalapeno seeds- the more you leave in, the bigger the kick. Place the cooled tomatillos, onions, seeded jalapenos, garlic, cilantro, and parsley in the food processor and pulse until finely chopped. Mix in the lime juice and olive oil. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
©Simplicious Dec ‘10/Jan ’11
www.simpliciousmag.com
Foxy Falafel recipe courtesy of Erica at Foxy Falafel Falafel are a traditional Middle Eastern fried patty made from ground chickpeas. Serve them sandwich style, tucked into a pita along with lettuce and slices of tomato, red onion and cucumber. Top these Foxy Falafel sammies with a simple sesame tahini sauce. 1 cup dried organic chickpeas (garbanzo beans) ¼ onion, chopped 2 cloves garlic ¼ cup fresh parsley ¼ cup fresh cilantro 1 tsp salt 1 tsp pepper 1 tsp cumin Canola oil, for frying Place the chickpeas in a large bowl and add enough cold water to cover them by at least two inches. Let soak for a 1 day. Drain. Place the drained, uncooked chickpeas in the bowl of a food processor fitted with a steel blade. Add the onion, garlic, parsley, cilantro, salt and cumin. Pulse until blended but not pureed, scraping the sides with a rubber spatula to process evenly. Form the chickpea mixture into 1-inch balls, or use a small ice cream scoop. Heat three inches of oil to 375 degrees in a deep pot (or use a deep fryer), wok or fryer. Fry for a few minutes on each side or until golden brown. Drain on paper towels. Serve.
Sesame Tahini Sauce ¼ cup tahini (sesame paste) ¼ cup water ¼ cup lemon juice ¼ cup plain yogurt 2 tbsp honey Salt and pepper Whisk ingredients in a bowl until well combined.
Nibble on this… Beans, Beans, they’re good for your heart; the more you eat ‘em the... We all know how the saying goes. And we’ve all experienced the flatulent side effects of these little legumes. But ever wonder what it is about beans that leave us sitting solo? The carbohydrates in beans are oligosaccharides, meaning they are made up of 3 to 5 sugar molecules linked together. Well it just so happens that these sugars are linked in such a way that our bodies cannot digest… without a little help, that is. Undigested, the oligo’s pass from our stomach to our intestines, where they are fed upon by bacteria. The bacteria break down the long chains of carbs, producing gas as a byproduct. So technically, it’s the bacteria that produce the gas we pass.
©Simplicious Dec ‘10/Jan ’11
www.simpliciousmag.com
Simplicious Picks… Fave Double- Duty Kitchen Gadget: the French Press Traditionally used for brewing a bold cup of java, the French Press is perfect for brewing loose herbal teas as well. Just steep, press, and voila…You get the perfect brew without the extra nibbles of leaves, herbs and spices.
Fave Sustainable Food Organization: Slow Food International Slow Food is a grassroots international non-profit organization that was founded in 1989 in response to “ the rise of fast food and fast…dwinding interest in the food [we] eat, where it comes from,…and how our food choices affect the rest of the world.” Slow Food is bringing food back to the local community and back to the kitchen table in a tangible way through a variety of programs, networks and campaigns, and gatherings. Get involved with your local Slow Food chapter.
Fave Organic Beer: Peak Organic Brewing It all started with a group of longtime friends standing around a home brewing kit in Vermont. With a little bit of love, sweat, and hops, a weekend passion project grew into every man’s dream job. Jon Cadoux, co-founder of Peak Organic Brewing, and his beermaking cohorts, use ingredients from local and organic farms in their brews. And I’m not just talking about the beer basics, like hops. They also source maple syrup and coffee locally for some of their more unusual concoctions. Not only do they say using local ingredients makes their beers taste better, but it’s also important to them to support their local agricultural community. And as Jon said, it’s a “no-brainer.”
Brie en Croute (Baked Brie) Brie en Croute is one of the simplest and most delicious appetizers out there. Wrap a wheel of brie in a sheet of thawed puff pastry (or a roll of pie crust) and bake until golden brown. Let cool, then serve with Quick Cranberry Sauce and slices of fresh baguette. Quick Cranberry Sauce This sauce has a good tang to it. If you like yours a little sweeter feel free to add a little more honey. 12 oz bag fresh cranberries Zest and juice of 1 orange ½ cup honey (more for a sweeter sauce) Place all ingredients in a saucepan. Simmer over medium heat for 30-45 minutes, until cranberries have popped and sauce is thick. ©Simplicious Dec ‘10/Jan ’11
www.simpliciousmag.com
Cooking Fast, Fresh and Green Susie Middleton grew up in food crazed family where everybody loved to cook. So it’s no surprise that she was led into a career in the food industry. First honing her skills at culinary school (what is now known as the Institute of Culinary Education), Susie then worked in restaurants for a while before transitioning into the publishing world, sitting as Editor-in-Chief of Fine Cooking magazine for many years. Leaving the daily drolls of publishing behind, Middleton moved to Martha’s Vineyard, started a small organic farm, and now maintains a blog, Six Burner Sue, freelances for several magazines, and serves as Editorat-Large for Fine Cooking. But Susie’s most recent success is her cookbook, Fast, Fresh and Green, published by Chronicle Books. Fast, Fresh and Green is essentially an extension of Middleton’s work at Fine Cooking, where she became a veritable expert on the vegetable cookery. Sensitive to the fact that many people didn’t like to eat vegetables because they thought they didn’t taste good, Susie used the skills she had learned in culinary school to create tasty vegetable dishes. Her M.O. for FFG? To share her cooking skills with others and provide readers with a repertoire of basic tips and techniques that they can carry with them into their own kitchen. Middleton feels that cooking is becoming somewhat of a lost art. It’s something that she enjoys so much that she wants to share that joy with others. and show that cooking is actually much easier than people think. By sharing her own knowledge, Susie is giving people a little more control over what they are eating. For her, it’s all about getting in the kitchen and learning basic skills that give you more flexibility. ©Simplicious Dec ‘10/Jan ’11
While many of her recipes are quick to put together, be prepared to do some actual cooking. But as Middleton assures me, it’s worth the small investment of time as even the worst vegetable critics will fall in love with these dishes. www.sixburnersue.com Fast, Fresh & Green Pantry Staples: (full list can be found in the book) Olive oil Kosher salt Balsamic and sherry vinegars Citrus Zest (and a microplane zester) Garlic, shallots and onions Parmesan cheese Honey & maple syrup Fresh herbs (wrapped in paper towel, placed in Ziploc and stored in the fridge)
Christmas Kale Gratin with Sun-Dried Tomatoes Serves 4-5 Reprinted with permission by Chronicle Books from Fast, Fresh & Green by Susie Middleton
When I put together this lightly creamy gratin, the red in the sun-dried tomatoes and the green in the kale made me think of Christmas, though I’d be just as happy to eat it on New Year’s Day with a good baked ham. No matter when you serve it, it’s a good way to get smaller people to eat their greens. I find that the cream and cheese in this gratin mellow the earthy flavor of kale, and with the help of sun-dried tomatoes, they give this dish a very pleasing flavor. ½ tsp. unsalted butter 1 cup fresh bread crumbs 3 Tbsp. finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano 1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil Kosher salt 1 bunch kale, stemmed, leaves ripped into pieces 1 cup heavy cream Freshly ground black pepper 2 Tbsp. chopped drained oil-packed sun-dried tomatoes www.simpliciousmag.com
1 cup grated Gruyère or Swiss cheese Preheat the oven to 400˚F. Rub a 5- or 6-cup shallow gratin dish with the butter. In a small bowl, combine the bread crumbs, Parmigiano, olive oil, and a pinch of salt. Fill a wide, 4- to 5-qt, Dutch-oven three-quarters full with water, add 2 tsp. salt, and bring to a boil. Add the kale to the boiling water and start timing immediately. Taste a leaf after 5 minutes. It should not be tough or rubbery. If it is, cook for 1 to 2 minutes more. Drain the kale in a colander in the sink and run cool water over it just until it’s cool enough to handle. Press down on the kale to remove as much water as possible. Transfer the kale to a mixing bowl by the handful, squeezing each handful again to remove additional water. In a small saucepan over medium heat, bring the cream to a boil, watching it carefully. As soon as it boils (don’t let it boil over), turn the heat down and simmer until it reduces by one-quarter, about 5 minutes (watch carefully; you should have 3/4 cup). Remove the cream from the heat and season it with 1/4 tsp salt and a few grinds of pepper. Add the sun-dried tomatoes and the cheese to the bowl of kale. Loosely toss everything together. (The mixture doesn’t have to be too thoroughly combined; just be sure to break up any big clumps of cheese.) Spread out the mixture evenly in the gratin dish. Pour the cream over all. Cover the gratin with the bread crumb mixture, spreading it out as evenly as possible. Bake the gratin until the crumbs are well browned and the cream has reduced to below the top of the gratin, 20 to 25 minute
©Simplicious Dec ‘10/Jan ’11
Sautéed Carrots with Warm Olive and Mint Dressing Serves 3 Reprinted with permission by Chronicle Books from Fast, Fresh & Green by Susie Middleton
Carrots and olives were made to go together—I guess it’s kind of a sweet and salty thing. Whatever it is, I love how it works in this gutsy sauté. Serve the carrots with lamb chops rubbed with a Middle Eastern blend of spices like cumin, coriander, and cinnamon. 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil 1 tsp. red-wine vinegar ½ tsp. Dijon mustard kosher salt 1 lb carrots, peeled cut into sticks 1 tsp. minced fresh garlic 2 Tbsp. finely chopped pitted kalamata olives 2 Tbsp. chopped fresh mint 2 Tbsp. coarsely chopped toasted almonds In a small bowl, combine 2 tsp. of the olive oil, the red-wine vinegar, mustard, and a pinch of salt. Whisk until emulsified. In a large nonstick skillet, heat the remaining 1 Tbsp. plus 1 tsp. olive oil over medium heat. When the oil is hot (it will loosen up), add the carrots and 1/2 tsp. salt and toss well. Turn up the heat to medium-high and cook, stirring and tossing occasionally with tongs, until the carrots have lost their stiffness and are all nicely browned on at least one side (they will be a deep amber color with browning in spots), 10 to 12 minutes. (If they’re browning too quickly, turn the heat down to medium.) Add the garlic, stir, and cook until fragrant and well combined, about 30 seconds. Remove the pan from the heat and carefully add the vinegar mixture (it will sputter), stirring immediately to distribute well. Add the olives and stir gently until well combined. Add half of the mint and stir again. Transfer to a serving platter or dinner plates and serve garnished with the remaining mint and the almonds, if desired. www.simpliciousmag.com
Juicing: Unleashing the Healing Power of Produce While consuming fresh juices might seem like a newage phenomenon, the first juicer was actually designed way back in the 1930’s by a nutritionist who reportedly lived to be over 110 years old. Whether it was the juice, or just good genetics, the fact remains that drinking fresh juices is a healthy addition to any diet. We often associate juicing with summertime and warm weather, but it’s a great way to get valuable nutrients during the winter months as well. When you juice a fruit or vegetable you break up the insoluble fiber, releasing the water, vitamins, minerals, enzymes, and phytonutrients bound inside so they are more easily accessible by our bodies. In fact, it is said that the nutrients in fresh juices are in
blender, or VitaMix, you are able to retain the beneficial fiber. This results in a juice that is more like a smoothie. Plus, Carissa says you are going to have a hard time getting much bang for your buck passing certain items through a juice extractor, like leafy greens.
Green Smoothie (blended juice) Recipe courtesy of The Stand Juice Café in Norwalk, CT
This blended green juice is sure to keep your immune system running strong, all winter/year long! 2 stalks kale, stems removed 1 stalks collard greens, stems removed ½ cucumber, chopped ½ avocado 1 clove garlic Handful or basil or parsley ½ an apple Enough water or apple juice to blend Place all ingredients in your standard home blender and puree until smooth. Cheers!
your blood stream within 30 minutes of drinking them! Because they are loaded with nutrients that are quickly and easily absorbed by our body, fresh juices can have potent health benefits. They can increase immunity, lower blood pressure, help with skin conditions and digestive problems, nourish and revitalized our internal organs, reduce weight, and help to detoxify your system. Keep in mind though that some juices are high in sugar, like beets and carrots. Although natural, these sugars could cause a spike in blood sugar levels. One other thing to consider with fresh juices is the fiber factor. With “pressed” juices, fruits and vegetables are fed into a standard juice extractor that removes the fiber and leaves you with just the nutrient rich “water.” Carissa, co-owner of The Stand Juice Café in Norwalk, CT prefers to blend some juices. By blending produce in a standard ©Simplicious Dec ‘10/Jan ’11
Nibble on this… Cooking with these herbs and spices can help ward off pesky winter germs: • Bay • Chive • Cinnamon • Clove • Fennel • Garlic • Ginger • Juniper Berry • Oregano • Paprika • Pepper • Rosemary • Sage • Savory • Thyme
www.simpliciousmag.com
Coq Au Vin Serves 6-8
boil, reduce heat to medium-low, cover and simmer until the chicken is falling-of-the-bone tender and liquid has reduced and thickened. Add the parsley just before serving. Note: if your chicken is done but the sauce isn’t as thick as you’d like, you have a couple options for thickening it. Remove the chicken and set it aside. Then you can either 1) Mix together equal parts water and corn starch. Add a little at a time to the coq au vin, allowing it to simmer for a couple minutes with each addition. Continue adding and simmering until you reach your desired thickness. Or 2) Knead together equal parts flour and butter. Add a bit at a time, allowing the sauce to simmer for a couple minutes with each addition. Continue until you reach your desired thickness.
This French dish is traditionally made with an old rooster (“coq”) that is stewed in red wine (“au vin”) for a long period of time in order to tenderize the tough meat. Our version uses tender chicken in order to cut down on cooking time. But there is no cutting down on flavor! Serve this dish over buttered noodles or with some nice crusty French bread. 4 oz bacon, sliced (optional) 5 lbs chicken, legs & thighs (bone-in) Flour for dredging 3-4 cloves garlic 3 oz tomato paste 4 thyme leaves 3-4 bay leaves 750ml red wine 32 oz chicken stock 24 oz button or cremini mushrooms, quartered 16 oz frozen pearl onions, thawed ½ cup parsley, chopped Salt and pepper Generously season the legs and thighs with salt and pepper then dredge in flour, dusting off any excess. Set aside. In a large saucepan, or Dutch oven, heat a few tablespoons of olive oil over medium-high heat. Sauté the bacon until it begins to crisp. Remove, drain on a paper towel and reserve.
Braised Endive Serves 8 4 strips bacon, thinly sliced (optional) ½ cup onion, diced 8 Belgian endive, halved 1 tbsp thyme leaves 1 ½ cups chicken stock ½ cup white wine ½ cup parmesan or gruyere cheese, grated Black pepper Preheat oven to 375˚. In a sauté an, render the bacon in drizzle of olive oil until crispy. Remove and drain on a paper towel. Add the onion, thyme and bay to the pan and quickly sauté for 1-2 minutes. Add the stock and wine and simmer for another 2-3 minutes. Arrange the endive, cut side up, in a greased baking dish. Carefully pour the onion mixture over the endives and finish with a sprinkle of black pepper. Lightly cover with foil and bake until endive leaves are tender, about 30 minutes. When ready to serve, uncover the endive, sprinkle with cheese and reserved bacon, and broil until cheese has melted.
Carefully place the chicken in the hot oil and brown on both sides. Do this in batches if necessary. Add all the chicken back to the pot, along with the garlic, tomato paste, thyme, bay, red wine, stock, mushrooms, onions and reserved bacon. Bring to a ©Simplicious Dec ‘10/Jan ’11
www.simpliciousmag.com
Moroccon Chicken Tagine Serves 6-8 8 chicken thighs, skinless 2 tbsp curry powder 1 tsp salt ½ tsp black pepper ¼ cup oil 2 celery stalks, sliced 2 carrots, sliced 1 medium red onion, chopped 1 apple, peeled and chopped 1” ginger, minced 4-5 garlic cloves, minced ½ cup raisins 10 apricots, chopped 32 oz chicken broth 1 zucchini, chopped 1 small eggplant, chopped 15 oz can chickpeas, drained Handful of sliced scallions Handful of chopped parsley Combine the curry, salt, pepper and olive oil. Rub on chicken thighs and let sit 10-15 minutes. Heat a large saucepan or Dutch oven over medium-high. Generously drizzle in olive oil to lightly coat the bottom. Add thighs and lightly brown on both sides. Do in two batches if necessary. Remove chicken when browned and set aside. Add celery, carrots and onion to the pot. Sauté for 3-5 minutes, or until begin to turn translucent and brown around the edges. Add the apple, ginger, garlic, raisins and apricots and sauté another 1-2 minutes. Then add the stock and bring it to a boil, stirring the bottom of the pot to remove all the bits of flavor. Add chicken back to boiling liquid, reduce heat to medium-low, cover and simmer for 30 minutes. Add the zucchini, eggplant and chickpeas, scallions and parsley. Cover and simmer another 15-20 minutes, or until the veggies are tender and the chicken easily pulls off the bone. Serve with couscous.
©Simplicious Dec ‘10/Jan ’11
www.simpliciousmag.com
In the Brazilian Kitchen Chef and cookbook author Leticia Moreinos Schwartz was born and raised in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. After finishing college in Rio with a BA in economics and working in finance, she changed careers and chose to follow her dreams. She moved to New York City in 1997 and enrolled at the French Culinary Institute where she graduated with degrees in both Culinary and Pastry Arts. Beginning her career at legendary NY restaurants such as Le Cirque 2000, La Grenouille, La Caravelle, and Payard Patisserie & Bistro, Schwartz now works as a food writer and cooking teacher at many NY cooking schools. Now she is sharing her passion with the rest of us in her cookbook, The Brazilian Kitchen: 100 Classic and Contemporary Recipes for the Home Cook. Let Chef Leticia take you on a little trip to Brazilian with these three delicious recipes…
Avocado Crème Brulee Crème Brulee de Abacate Reprinted with permission from Leticia Moreinos Schwartz From The Brazilian Kitchen, Kyle Cathie Books ©2010
Serves 4
While avocados aren’t necessarily a seasonal pick right now, we just couldn’t resist sharing this very unusual and amazingly delicious dessert. If you don’t have a blow torch, as the recipe calls for, you can caramelize the sugar under the broiler. Just keep a close eye on it. The buttery texture of avocado lends a perfect creaminess to this re-invented crème brûlée, which unlike the classic recipe, is not baked at all. The result is a truly inspired dessert that takes less than five minutes to make, plus a little chilling time. 1 cup sweetened condensed milk 2 medium firm-ripe Hass avocados, peeled, pitted and cut into chunks (between 8- 10 ounces flesh) 2 to 3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice About ½ cup sugar for topping Propane blow torch 4 crème brûlée ramekins Place the condensed milk and avocados into a food processor and process until the mixture is velvety smooth, about 1 to 2 minutes. Add the lemon juice one tablespoon at a time, and pulse for a few more seconds after each addition. At this point, taste the avocado cream to check if the lemon juice is giving the right balance. I usually use 2 tablespoons of fresh lemon juice and add more if necessary. Using a rubber spatula, scrape into four ramekins, making sure the mixture is nice and flat inside the ramekin. Chill for 4 hours. Right before serving, spread a thin layer of sugar evenly over the top of each custard. Ignite the torch to medium. Melt the sugar by moving the flame back and forth across the custard while maintaining a distance of 2 inches between the flame and the surface. The sugar will melt, bubble, then turn into a golden caramel. In less then a minute, it will harden to a delicious crust. Cool for 3 to 5 minutes before serving. Do not brûlée the dessert more then 20 minutes in advance of serving.
©Simplicious Dec ‘10/Jan ’11
www.simpliciousmag.com
Cod with Fingerling Potatoes and Onions Bacalhau Gomes Sá Reprinted with permission from Leticia Moreinos Schwartz From The Brazilian Kitchen, Kyle Cathie Books ©2010
Serves 4
¾ lb whole fingerling potatoes, peeled 5 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 2 ½ cups thinly sliced onions, about 2 large onions Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 large eggs, hard boiled and thinly sliced ¼ cup pitted Kalamata olives, cut in half 1 pound fresh cod 3 tablespoons fresh chopped chives Place the potatoes whole in a large heavy saucepan. Cover them with cold water by at least an inch, add a large pinch of salt, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium and simmer until the potatoes are fork- tender, about 12 to 15 minutes. Drain the potatoes in a colander and spread them out on a plate. When they are cool enough to handle, slice the potatoes into ¼ inch thick slices. Set aside. Pour 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a large skillet add the onions and cook, over low heat, stirring occasionally, until they are tender, sweet, and translucent, about 10 to 15 minutes. Resist the temptation to turn the heat to high, or, the onions will brown. The slower you cook the onions, the sweeter they get. Transfer to a large bowl. Preheat the oven to 350˚F and lightly coat a large shallow baking dish (glass or porcelain) with cooking spray. Add the sliced potatoes to the onions and toss. Season with salt and pepper. Spread them onto the prepared baking dish. Arrange the egg slices and olives on top. Drizzle over another 2 tablespoons of the olive oil. Season the cod with salt and pepper and place it on top of the potato, onion, egg, and olive mixture. Drizzle 1 tablespoon of olive oil on top of the fish and bake it in the oven until the fish is just cookedthe flesh will turn from translucent to opaque white, about 12 to 15 minutes. ©Simplicious Dec ‘10/Jan ’11
Remove the baking dish from the oven and garnish with the fresh chives. Spoon the cod onto warm plates and serve hot.
Feijoada (Meat and Black Bean Stew) Adapted from The Brazilian Kitchen, by Leticia Moreinos Schwartz, Kyle Cathie Books ©2010
Serves 8-10
Brazilians are a very casual people and often serve their meals buffet style. Feijoada is no exception. But it’s certainly a dish for special occasions and celebrations as well. Serve feijoada with rice, collard greens, and orange and grapefruit salad. 2 15oz cans black beans, drained 32 oz water or stock 4 tablespoons canola oil 2 pound top round, cut into big chunks 1 chorizo, about 1 pound 1 cup chopped onions ½ cup chopped celery ½ cup chopped scallions 2 tablespoons minced garlic 3 bay leaves Kosher salt Freshly ground black pepper Paprika Cayenne pepper Pour enough of the oil in a large sauté pan over high heat to just thinly coat the bottom. Sear top round and chorizo until browned on all sides. Transfer to a large bowl and cover tightly with aluminum foil to keep moist. Heat the remaining oil in an extra-large Dutch oven pan, over medium heat. Add the onions, celery, and scallions. Cook, stirring occasionally, until tender, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the garlic and bay leaves, stir to blend. Add the beans and water or stock, and bring to a boil. Add the meats to the pan. Cover the pan and simmer over low heat for about an hour, until the meat is tender. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
www.simpliciousmag.com
Editor’s Pick: In The Green Kitchen: Techniques to Learn by Heart by Alice Waters A chef, author, and owner of the infamous Chez Panisse restaurant in Berkeley, California, Alice Waters has been a pioneer in the local/sustainable foods movement over the past forty years. The first Edible Schoolyard in Berkeley was her brainchild, as was The Chez Panisse Foundation which supports edible schoolyard projects. Her newest gift to the world is her cookbook, In the Green Kitchen. Born out of a gathering, called Slow Food Nation, in 2008 that Waters helped organize, ITGK provides basic universal cooking techniques that “once learned by heart… free cooks from an overdependence on recipes and a fear of improvisation.” So basically, she is giving a crash course in culinary education. Waters features thirty experts, or “friends & cooks,” that presented alongside her at Slow Food Nation, including names like Rick Bayless, Lidia Bastianich, Anna Lappé, and Thomas Keller, along with deliciously simple recipes. Video of demo’s from the organized food fest can be seen at www.alicewatersgreenkitchen.com. Proceeds from the book benefit the Chez Panisse Foundation.
Vitamin Sea(weed) Ancient myth holds that the sea is the source that all living things arise from. Our veins pulse with blood that contains all 100 minerals and trace elements in nearly the same composition as sea water. But whether its fact or fiction that it was the source of our beginning, it holds true that for thousands of years people have been turning to the sea for ways to help prolong life, prevent disease, and impart beauty and health. Sea plants contain 10-20 times the mineral content as land plants (and the broadest range of minerals of any living organism) along with other vitamins, amino acids and nutritive elements that are in an easily assimilable form. They are the ultimate food medicine. Seaweeds are a particularly rich source of calcium, iron, iodine and fluoride. Iodine is is essential for proper thyroid function. Since the thyroid reigns over digestion and metabolism, a deficiency could result in low energy, weight gain, an inability to properly metabolize foods, and the infamous goiter. Fluorine (the elemental form of fluoride, which is supplemented in toothpastes) helps strengthen teeth and bones as well as boost immunity. Be careful though as cooking seaweed will destroy the fluorine content- it must be eaten raw/fresh to reap these benefits. Seaweeds are also known for their detoxification properties. As they cleanse the ocean, so do they cleanse our bodies by transforming environmental toxins and heavy metals in our system into harmless salts which our body can easily excrete. Additionally, they have potent antioxidant and anticancer properties, and are known to lower blood cholesterol, alkalize the body, and help maintain healthy skin and hair. There are a variety of seaweeds readily available to us including kelp, kombu, wakame, arame, nori, dulse and hijiki. Find them at your local Whole Foods market, natural foods store, or Asian market. The versatility of seaweed means you can include them in everything from soups and stews, to stirfrys, to meat and bean dishes. Even salads. So go on, see what the ancient twitter was all about… ©Simplicious Dec ‘10/Jan ’11
www.simpliciousmag.com
Enduring the Race: Sustainable Seafood…Sashimi Style Bun Lai is a Sustainable Seafood Expert and the Master Chef/Creative Genius/Sushi Guru at Miya’s Sushi in New Haven, CT, a restaurant that was started by his mother in 1982. At a very young age, Bun learned a Universal truth from his father: we do not live just for ourselves; there is a vast world out there that we are connected to and responsible for. So following in his father’s footsteps, Lai aspired to not just work for the sake of money or fame, but to bring goodness to the planet. “Sustainable seafood is important to me because I know that food is not just about our physical nourishment. What we choose to eat impacts the atmosphere, the land, the seas, flora, fauna and the entire family of man.” Conventional farming and fishing practices compromise the health of the fish, the consumer, and other marine wildlife and ecosystems. Sustainable seafood practices, on the other hand, maintain or increase the production of seafood in the future and do minimal to no damage to surrounding ecosystems. “At Miya’s, we are aware that the traditional cuisine of sushi is endangering our oceans… our consumerism, and particularly, our zeal for exotic seafood may one day lead to seas depleted of fish to eat. That’s why we do our best not to use ingredients that are either overfished or are produced in a way that negatively impacts the environment. More than half of our menu is vegetable-centered and the remainder does not include popular traditional sushi ingredients such as farmed salmon, red snapper, yellowtail, freshwater eel and most tunas. Instead, I have created dishes that include sustainable seafood, not conventionally used for sushi, such as catfish, carp, lionfish, mussels, clams, jellyfish, starfish and Asian shore crabs.” There are many environmental problems that challenge the entire globe. A massive international issue is bycatch. It is not uncommon for unintended aquatic animals to get caught in traps, nets and lines and subsequently die. By-catch endangers the population of these animals. Although Lai says that by-catch is not particularly a problem in the Long Island Sound area, there are challenges to our own local marine ecosystem. And that problem is invasive species, an issue that is slowly coming to the forefront of public knowledge. “We know that there are invasive species that prey upon the local shellfish population, the same population that the local fishing industry depends on.” According to Lai, these invasive species are an untapped resource. “Just because there isn’t an existing market for these species doesn’t mean they aren’t edible or can’t be delicious. At Miya’s, we have also focused on creating a part of our menu that will involve the gathering and eating of invasive species now found in local Connecticut waters.” According to Bun, one of the easiest things we can all do to change the course of this epic battle is to get educated. One of his favorite sites is Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Sustainable Seafood Watch. “They have so much useful and fascinating information. MBA also has a downloadable pocket brochure and iphone application that you can refer to at restaurants, your local super market or fish store.” And let your dollars to the talking. Tell local businesses that you care about sustainable seafood, and refuse to buy items that are not sustainably sourced. Lai recently ran the New York Marathon this past November for the first time. “One of the challenges for a novice like me was to take the race out too fast and burn out before I made it to the finish line. When I think of sustainability now, I think of this race. Sustainability is the capacity to endure. So, when we are talking about sustainable seafood, it’s not unlike running a marathon. How we raise and catch our seafood must be paced, too, so that the oceans and the planet can endure.”
©Simplicious Dec ‘10/Jan ’11
www.simpliciousmag.com
Wild Salmon En Papillote with Lentils Serves 4
To serve, place each papillote on a plate, cut a slit in the top to let out some steam, and serve, allowing each person to open their own package.
Shrimp in Spicy Garlic Adobo Sauce Serves 4 These flavorful shrimp are great served over rice or skewered, as a main course, or skewered as appetizer.
Cooking fish in “en papillote,” or wrapped in parchment, allows it to steam in its own juices as it is gently flavored by the veggies and other liquids you add. This cooking method ensures a very healthy and flavorful outcome. 1 cups French lentils 4 cups chicken or veggie broth Red pepper, thinly sliced Leeks (whites only), thinly sliced 4 6oz portions salmon filet 8 tbsp white wine Zest of 1 orange, lemon and lime Salt and pepper 4 large pieces of Parchment paper Preheat oven to 350˚. Place the lentils and broth in a saucepan, bring to a boil, cover and simmer over medium-low heat until al dente, about 30 minutes. Drain excess liquid and set aside. This step can be done in advance and the lentils chilled until ready to use.
1 tbsp garlic 2 tbsp Olive oil 1 lb medium-large shrimp, peeled 1 cup crushed tomatoes 1 chipotle chili in adobo sauce, minced 1 tbsp adobo sauce Handful of chopped fresh parsley Juice of ½ lime Salt & pepper Heat the oil in a medium sauté pan over mediumhigh heat. Add the garlic and sauté for 1 minute. Season the shrimp with a pinch of salt and pepper then add to the sauté pan, stiring to coat with the garlic oil, and cook for 1-2 minutes, until they begin to turn pink. Combine the tomatoes, chili, and adobo sauce. Add the chipotle tomato sauce, stir well, and simmer gently over medium heat for 5-7 minutes, until the shrimp are cooked through. Stir in the parsley and lime juice before serving. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
To assemble the papillotes: season the salmon filets with salt, pepper, and citrus zest. Place ¼ of the lentils onto the middle of each parchment paper. Top the lentils with peppers, leeks and a salmon filet. Add 2 tbsp white wine and a drizzle of olive oil to each. Bring the edges of the parchment up over the salmon, and fold down, then fold the edges up and tuck under to hold in place. Place the papillotes on a baking pan, and bake in the oven for about 10 minutes, or until salmon has cooked through to desired doneness. ©Simplicious Dec ‘10/Jan ’11
www.simpliciousmag.com
Honey Baked Butternut Squash
Spiced Pear & Fig Bread Pudding
Serves 10
Serves 8-10
Contributed by Chef Matthew Perez
1/3 cup Olive oil 4 slices Pancetta cut in ¼ inch short strips 2 Yellow Onion, small dice 4 lbs Butternut squash, peeled, cubed in ¾ inch 3 Bay leaves 3 Garlic cloves, peeled and minced 5 tbsp Honey Salt, pepper and nutmeg In a large frying pan, pour 3 Tbsp. olive oil. Over medium heat, add the pancetta and onions, sauté till the onions are sweated. Add the remaining olive oil, squash and sauté, allowing the squash to lightly brown, 10-15 minutes. They should start to become tender. Remove from the flame, fold in the bay leaves, the garlic, nutmeg, salt and pepper to taste. Transfer to a greased baking dish and place in a 400°F oven. Let bake for about 30 minutes. When just about done, drizzle with the honey and return to the oven and bake till the honey caramelize.
The standard bread pudding gets a festive holiday twist by adding pear puree and pear liquor. This is perfect served alongside a scoop of vanilla ice cream and a drizzle of caramel sauce. 1 loaf of Italian bread 4 cups milk 4 eggs 1 cup rapadura sugar 2 cups pear puree (recipe below) 1 cup dried figs, chopped 4 oz pear liquor 2 tsp vanilla extract 2 tsp powdered ginger 2 tsp cinnamon ½ tsp nutmeg Tear the bread into chunks and pile into a greased baking dish. Mix together the remaining ingredients and pour over the bread. Gently press the bread down to make sure it all gets a good soaking of the liquid. Refrigerate for 30-60 minutes. When ready to bake, preheat your oven to 350˚. Bake the bread pudding for 45 minutes to 1 hour. Let cool slightly before serving.
©Simplicious Dec ‘10/Jan ’11
www.simpliciousmag.com