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A Couple’s Retreat

Highlands, North Carolina, provides the kid-less getaway of COVID-year dreams

From left to right: One of Half-Mile's three historic cabins, cozying up in front of the fire pit and breakfast delights in the Main House. Below: A Woodland Luxury King Room balcony provides a private outdoor space.

STORY: Karina Antenucci

Only the call of a romantic mountain retreat at Half-Mile Farm in Highlands, North Carolina, could have drawn my husband and me out of our lockdown mode this winter. The utter peace and quiet of the adults-only, luxury country property 2.5 hours from Atlanta and a few minutes’ drive from quaint downtown Highlands were a divine gift of rest and reconnection for two weary toddler parents.

Our first, second and third order of business was to relax. A Champagne welcome, followed by a nap in a Frette linen-clad king bed and reading an issue of Vanity Fair on a balcony overlooking a pine tree forest complete with a running brook soundtrack, fit our “take it easy” agenda. Next, we indulged in Half-Mile’s daily 5 to 6 p.m. cocktail hour, taking our vino and complimentary meat and cheese plates out to the veranda to enjoy the view of serene Apple Lake, named after the orchard that once flourished on the original 120-acre farm, which began as land grant in the 1880s. Today, a few apple trees remain.

Half-Mile Farm’s 21-room property features a main house that boasts bones from its early 1900 beginnings and now houses a reception area, cozy bar and spacious breakfast restaurant. Its accommodations include several newly renovated guest rooms just off the main house, each with an outdoor entrance (a COVID-era plus) and three historic, rustic-chic cabins. The latter originated as eight cabins in locations throughout the South and were carefully dismantled, relocated and reconstructed with larger floor plans at Half-Mile.

For laid-back fun without leaving the property, complimentary bikes, a canoe and stand up paddle boards (for the brave and well-balanced in the winter!) are available. A heated pool beckons sore muscles from active adventures no matter the season. Several indoor and outdoor seating nooks are nestled throughout the spaces, including a guest lounge where you can curl up by a fireplace and play board games (currently available upon request), share conversation or simply enjoy blissful silence.

Left: Warm up fireside with a cocktail at HalfMile's bar, J. Henry Farmhouse Tavern.

Off-property, an abundance of outdoor activities, including various hikes, awaits. Craving time in nature without making a day of it, my husband and I embarked on two nearby trails. First we tackled Whiteside Mountain, a 2-mile loop that sounded but didn’t feel “moderate” during the 1-mile ascent to the top, but it offered breathtaking vistas that made the strenuous climb worth it. Glen Falls trail, also roughly 2-miles roundtrip, provided four scenic stops to view the rushing falls.

Afterwards, I savored every minute of a signature massage at The Spa at Old Edwards Inn. While the spa’s saunas and steam rooms are currently closed, the coed Fireside Lounge welcomes with the plushest of lounge chairs to sink into.

In addition to the spa, guests of Half-Mile enjoy all the amenities sister property Old Edwards Inn has to offer including its restaurants, presently open only to inn guests. Trusted foodie friends told me Madison’s Restaurant was not to be missed, and the romantic, farm-to-table fine dining in a relaxed, stone cottage-like ambiance did not disappoint. Recommended: the roasted root vegetable “kilt” salad with bacon lardons, aged goat cheese and apple cider vinegar to start followed by a Dijon and herbcrusted pork tenderloin with roasted apples, fingerlings and garden greens.

The inn’s shuttle is at your service after a night on the town. Look out for bears crossing—we delighted in spotting a mama and her cubs.

Having enchanted us with its ways and with so much more to see and do, Highlands has certainly landed a place on our must-return list. Now back to the “real world”… n

HALF-MILE FARM

855.271.7246 oldedwardshospitality.com/ half-mile-farm

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Left: Stroll vast Sonoma vineyards and taste the grapes during Jordan Winery's vineyard hike.

Despite 2020’s Sonoma-area fires, centralized Below: DaVero Farms and Winery offers Healdsburg continues to draw grape enthusiasts STORY: Nicole Letts private tastings amid their gardens in Healdsburg. As my plane descended into the San Francisco airport, the sky turned an eerie shade mile from Healdsburg and part of the Dry Creek Valley AVA, guests are treated to a tour of the biodynamic of persimmon, and a faint scent of farm and gardens before sitting amid smoke filled the cabin. The flight was flowers and trees for a private Italianmy first during the pandemic, and varietal wine tasting and seasonal the macabre ambiance caused by food pairing. Director Andrew Hock the nearby wildfires was, honestly, says his goal is to “tear down the a bit unsettling. We pushed through pretentious walls around wine and gray clouds of smoke, and I remind- make it for everyone.” As such, ed myself that several days of wine he lets guests’ tastebuds lead, never tasting in California’s most illustrious hinting at what they should or terroirs would more than compen- should not taste in their glasses. sate for my brief unease. My next stop was to Alexander Val-

I was right. I was headed to ley to experience the area by sipping Healdsburg, one of Sonoma’s idyl- under the trees and amid the vines lic towns, perfectly centralized for at Jordan Winery. The 1,200-acre experiencing three of wine country’s vineyard and winery offer various ways more than 18 American Viticultural to enjoy cabernet sauvignon and charAreas (AVAs): Alexander Valley, Dry donnay vintages. The vineyard hike Gott’s Roadside in neighboring Napa) erty’s creek, mountains or interior Creek Valley and Russian River Valley. takes adventurous wine drinkers on helms the winemaking while execu- courtyard. Guests are enveloped in

Healdsburg has a way of rising a 4-miler through the vineyards and tive chef Shane McAnelly presides the surrounding trees, offering a cozy from the ashes. In fact, as Atlantans, climbs more than 300 feet of eleva- over the food. The result is a balanced respite after a day of wine tasting. we might call it our fellow Phoenix tion. The Paris on the Terrace lunch partnership in which food and wine For drinks, head to the hotel’s The city. Wildfires are to Californians what is a two-hour, five-course food and waltz in harmony. Visitors to Bricoleur Rooftop for picturesque views of hurricanes are to Southerners. They’re wine pairing prepared by chef Todd can choose from a variety of tastings, Fitch Mountain before making your dangerous and unpredictable, but Knoll that all but transports diners to most of which showcase the food and way across the street to Mateo’s they don’t paralyze us. As I made my a French bistro. If you’re lucky, you wine partnership between Gott and Cocina Latina for fresh agua fresca, way throughout Healdsburg, tasting might even catch a glimpse of head McAnelly. I enjoyed the Sip & Savor seasonal margaritas and Yucatanunique wines and sampling local winemaker Maggie Kruse, who just option. During this ultimate tasting inspired fare with California flair. cuisine, I discovered a city that is celebrated her 15th harvest with Jor- experience, I sampled six wines along Despite being faced with a difficult resilient and people who are strong. dan and her first as head winemaker. with six small bites of paired dishes. 2020 followed by devastating fires,

With three AVAs within a few miles Finally, I traveled to Bricoleur Like me, plan to rest your head Healdsburg presses on. Most of the of Healdsburg, I made it a point to visit Vineyards, one of Russian River Val- at Harmon Guest House, one of fires were kept at bay while harvest a winery in each one. Plus, wine tast- ley’s newest wineries that is already Healdsburg’s latest hotels in the forged ahead. Hell hath no fury like ing is perhaps one of the safest socially solidifying itself as a top-notch maker heart of town. With 39 rooms, you’ll a threatened winemaker. The 2020 distanced activities. As of my trip in the due to its legendary staff. Here, fourth be treated to a boutique affair. Each vintages were produced, and I am fall, each tasting took place outdoors. generation California winemaker Cary guest room is complete with a balco- already dreaming about my return to

At DaVero Farms and Winery, one Gott (of the same family as the famed ny or patio with views of the prop- sample the fruits of the harvest. n