THE GUIDE 2015
ST. MARY’S TRESCO ST. MARTIN’S BRYHER ST. AGNES
A LIFETIME'S LOVE AFFAIR FOREWORD BY VALERIE SINGLETON, TRAVEL WRITER, TV PRESENTER (AND ONE TIME BLUE PETER LEGEND) The Isles of Scilly definitely catch at people’s hearts. Those who have never been are longing to go. Those who have, want to return and many do - again and again. Honeymoons, holidays and childhood vacations, inevitably lead to a lifetime’s love affair. Several friends were very envious of my visit. There really is only one way to see the different islands properly and that’s on foot. It’s only on the largest islands of St. Mary’s and Tresco that it’s possible to hire a golf buggy or a bike. The lack of vehicles on the other islands (except for deliveries) is one of the joys of being there. The coastal paths are easy to follow but my purchase of small foldable walking maps from the delightful and absorbing museum on St. Mary’s (well worth a couple of hours) meant I missed nothing on the way. The beaches are exquisite; with vast expanses of glorious white sand and when I was there, deliciously empty. The views of other islands as I walked were ever changing as was the weather. Adding to the charm and unexpectedness of the landscape. Each island has its own character and I loved deciding at a moment’s notice which one I would visit that day and hopping on a boat at the quayside. Would it be Tresco, Brhyer, St. Martins, St. Agnes... nowhere taking long to reach. The history of the islands is fascinating. Neolithic and Bronze Age settlements… ruined castles on Tresco and the Star Castle on St. Mary’s, now a hotel, built for defence by Elizabeth I, with years of conflict and royal guests and (it’s said) a ghost, all show the islands' many years of habitation. I spent a magical morning in the renowned Tresco Abbey Garden created just under a couple of hundred years ago by the arrival of Augustus Smith. What a work of love and dedication to transform a barren headland into the beautiful gardens that exist today. It’s not surprising so many visitors return so often to these special and relaxing islands.
It exerts over me, like many others, an inexorable pull. As soon as I left, I wanted to return. NOVELIST MAGGIE O’FARRELL FOR THE TIMES
FIVE ISLANDS ONE DESTINATION
Features 8 Ten reasons to love Scilly Every visitor to Scilly will fall in love with
8 Love Scilly
something different, but here are some of our favourites.
42 Perfection through a lens Despite photographing the world,
nowhere has yet come close to Merryn Thomas' childhood home - the 'most special place on Earth'.
52 In search of foodie heaven Loosening her waistband, Sue Bradbury
14 Islands guide
sets off to the islands in search of great things to eat and drink.
60 A Hungry Week on Tresco Travel blogger Catherine Lux recently
took some time to take in the Tresco and Bryher Food Festival.
68 What to do on an island Sail, ride, snorkel, walk, explore.
On Scilly you can do everything... or nothing at all.
72 Island to Island Jim Parker is a New Zealand-based
photographer. We asked him to tell us about his experience on the Isles.
68 Active
52 Foodie heaven
36 Travel guide
IN THIS GUIDE Allow yourself to imagine a simpler, more beautiful place. An archipelago set in clear waters just minutes from the coast of Cornwall, yet a world apart from everyday life.
Islands guide 16 Introducing the Isles of Scilly 18 – St. Mary's 24 – Tresco 26 – St. Martin's 28 – Bryher 30 – St. Agnes
Perfection 42 through a lens
32 Island hopping
Travel guide 38 Fly or sail 40 Arriving on the islands 78 Island maps
They exude a nostalgia for a slower pace of life, where kids are free to roam and enjoy the natural environment. WILLIAM GRAY, FAMILY TRAVELLER
A PLACE LIKE NOWHERE ELSE
TEN REASONS TO LOVE SCILLY
ONE
The journey Getting to Scilly is an adventure. Where else in England will you arrive on holiday on a scheduled flight from a tiny airport in a small 8 or 19-seater aircraft? With a pilot who doubles as your tour guide? Arriving by sea from Penzance is equally pleasurable‌ set sail aboard the passenger ferry and leave all your worries behind. Nothing to do except watch for the wildlife, enjoy a coffee and simply relax.
The Isles of Scilly are like nowhere else in England. Outstandingly beautiful, uncrowded and unspoilt, they nestle just off Cornwall but seem like a world apart. They offer a certain quality of life long lost to many other parts of the UK. Nearly everyone who comes here falls in love with Scilly and yearns to return. No doubt you’ll have your own reasons, but here are a few of our favourites.
Life on the water TWO
Scilly pulsates to the rhythm of the sea. In summer, the coves and quays come alive with boats of every shape and size. Fishing boats venture out at dawn as cruise liners inch into “The Roads”. Inter-island boats take off on trips and tours. And fun seekers enjoy messing about on dinghies, paddleboards and kayaks. You can snorkel with seals, too, and dive the wrecks. Explore Scilly on the water and experience the essence of island life.
THREE
Dazzling birds and wildlife The Isles of Scilly are home to a rich diversity of wildlife. It is the only place in England where storm petrels breed. Home to 75% of the world’s Manx shearwater population, the islands also enjoy a high population of song thrushes. Puffins arrive at the end of April and leave around mid-July. Look out too for cormorants, gannets, seals and occasional dolphins. Enjoy a guided wildlife excursion by boat or on foot with resident experts.
www.visitislesofscilly.com
FIVE FOUR
Not one destination, but five!
An amazing heritage
There’s no better way to experience Scilly than island hopping by boat. You’ll soon discover that each of the inhabited islands has a unique charm and character all its own, and many an hour will be spent debating with family and friends about which is your own particular favourite. Tripper boats run daily between all five inhabited islands as well as the larger uninhabited isles like Samson and the Eastern Isles.
Scilly’s history is utterly compelling – and to this day influences and blends with daily life on the islands. From maritime shipwrecks to Bronze Age burial chambers dating back 3,000 years; from deserted Christian chapels on St. Helen’s to heavily fortified castles and headlands from the English Civil War. Our tiny land mass is home to 239 scheduled monuments, giving the islands a greater density of historical sites than anywhere else in the British Isles.
Deserted beaches to call your own Marvel at the long stretches of largely deserted fine white sand beaches reminiscent of the Caribbean, some lined with marram grass, and the sparkling crystal clear blue waters that surround the archipelago. Admire too the plethora of tiny inlets, coves and rocky outcrops that punctuate the more rugged of our coastlines. Balmy summer days or wild winter blows, there’s a deserted beach for every mood. Just for you.
SIX
10
SEVEN
Family fun and freedom Scilly is a wonderful place for families to wind back the clock to a more carefree lifestyle - simple pastimes and time spent together outdoors. Spend long days combing the seashore, building sandcastles, paddling, fishing and crabbing, taking a boat on a wildlife safari, enjoying leisurely bike rides or exploring on horseback. With quieter roads on St. Mary’s and just a handful of vehicles on off-islands, Scilly is a haven for children who want to roam free.
Wonderful walking... People come to Scilly year-round to explore its wilderness on foot, and no wonder. There are more than 30 miles of nature trails and walks on St. Mary’s alone, while all the off-islands offer fantastic opportunities to walk their length and breadth. Every April and September, Scilly hosts a festival of themed walks – an opportunity to enjoy guided walks taking in our spectacular history, diverse coastal and country scenery, exotic plants, wildlife and more.
EIGHT
Creative souls Artists flock to Scilly and many never leave. They’re lured to the islands by the intensity of light and its effect on ever-changing seascapes and landscapes. Every island has galleries and every island has artists working in a variety of media – from oil painting, watercolours, leatherwork and jewellery to exquisite stained glass, pottery and screen-printing. Feast your eyes, even take part in May’s Art Scilly Week, and take home some memories to cherish.
NINE
TEN
ROMANTIC SCILLY It’s hard not to fall in love with or on the Isles of Scilly. Whatever your special reason for loving these beautiful islands, they are the perfect place for your special occasion.
Fantastic Scillonian fare Here on Scilly, not only do you know where your food comes from, but you can also often point to the fisherman or farmer who provided it! We take great pride in our rich variety of local Scillonian produce – freshlycaught lobster and crab, succulent duck and beef, tatty cake, lush ice cream, jams, fudge, wines and beers – all grown or produced lovingly across the islands and served up at many of our restaurants, cafés, pubs and farm stalls.
Photography competition Most of the stunning photos you see in this section were selected from the Isles of Scilly Photo Competition held throughout the summer of 2014, including the overall winning shot of the puffin. The winning photographer, Steven Burbidge, won a weekend break to Bryher at Samson Hill Cottage. Look out for our 2015 Photo Competition and you too could win a holiday. www.visitislesofscilly.com/ photocompetition
www.visitislesofscilly.com
If you’re planning a wedding, considering a civil ceremony or seeking to renew your vows here, you can choose to make that commitment in the beautifully-located Beachside Room at the Register Office right on Porthcressa Beach, or at any of the licensed venues across the islands. www.scilly.gov.uk/ceremoniesregistration If you’d like to explore getting married or having your marriage blessed in one of the six island Anglican churches, contact the Scilly Chaplain, Paul Miller. scillychaplain@btinternet.com or call the Chaplaincy on 01720 423911 Planning the rest of your day couldn’t be easier either. Catering arrangements can be made through all the hotels and many of the restaurants, talented photographers abound and there is no shortage of florists (or indeed flowers) on the islands!
BEAUTIFUL BEACHES, SIMPLE PLEASURES
If you like deserted beaches, sea breezes, well-tended fishing villages and endless supplies of lip-smackingly delicious seafood, then the Isles of Scilly will almost certainly catch you in its seductive net. HANNA LINDON, FLYBE MAGAZINE
Bryher
St. Agnes
St. Martin's
Tresco
St. Mary's
SAY HELLO TO OUR ISLANDS MAGICAL, PEACEFUL, UNFORGETTABLE – A DESTINATION LIKE NO OTHER As soon as you arrive here, by small plane or by boat, you immediately sense that you have discovered something special as you glimpse the cluster of low-lying islands amid a turquoise lagoon, some fringed by rocks, others by white sandy beaches, and all bathed in a light of wonderful intensity. There are five inhabited islands (and some 140 uninhabited ones) to explore - across a very small area. Each has its distinct characteristics. St. Mary’s is the largest, home to 1,800 residents. The other, smaller, inhabited islands are Tresco, St. Martin’s, Bryher and St. Agnes – each supporting between 80 and 140 residents. Just 2,200 people are lucky enough to call Scilly home. Some visitors crave the deep sense of tradition here, immersing themselves in history and myth; others come to walk, to cycle, to sail or to enjoy the heightened creativity of island life through painting, photography or crafts. Many are captivated by the sights and scents of the sub-tropical plants and flowers that give Scilly its distinctive landscape; and everyone can savour the flavour of fresh seafood in beachside cafés and local ales at a traditional pub. Scilly boasts a remarkable ancient history and archaeology, alongside sweeping sea views and rugged undeveloped coasts – all of which can be discovered and explored by foot. Our heritage revolves around the sea - fishing for lobsters, crabs and crawfish; and racing traditional pilot gigs. Out at sea, there are incredible shipwrecks and amazing wildlife - seals, puffins, dolphins, cormorants, shags and the rarer Manx shearwaters and storm petrels.
www.visitislesofscilly.com
The islands, warmed by the Gulf Stream, are a haven for unusual flowers and plants. Frost and snow rarely make an appearance, so gardeners can grow exotic species from all over the world. As you walk across the islands, and particularly if you visit the world famous Tresco Abbey Garden, you’ll spot vibrant, sun-loving plants from the Canaries, South Africa, South America, Australia and New Zealand – all looking wonderfully at home here in Scilly. Flower farming also thrives. Farms on St. Mary’s, Tresco, St. Martin’s and St. Agnes grow narcissi, daffodils and scented pinks, to name a few, which are distributed and enjoyed throughout the UK. The vivid patchwork of yellow and white narcissi fields stirring into life from October through to early spring is a sight to behold. Some farmers have also diversified into harvesting herbs for essential oils as well as keeping small herds of beef and dairy cows. The sea air, clean seas and mild weather also provide the additional ingredients to a wonderful array of locally produced food: lobster, crab, tender island-reared beef, Scilly duck, vegetables, fudge, ice-creams, and locally made wines and beers. All this, plus life’s simplest pleasures: from beachcombing barefoot on deserted beaches and collecting shells, to watching the sun go down and gazing at the stars. Scilly is stylish enough to be special; chilled enough to go barefoot. Above all, Scilly gives you the space and freedom to do as much or as little as you like – in a breath-taking location that basks in the mildest climate in the UK.
ST. MARY’S ESSENTIALS Isles of Scilly Flowers We grow scented narcissi and show pinks all year round. Handpicked by us on The Flower Farm at Trenoweth, St. Mary’s, Isles of Scilly, and delivered to your home by first class post. 01720 422666 www.islesofscillyflowers.com Seasalt Cornwall With our design studios overlooking Falmouth Bay in Cornwall, every day we’re inspired to design clothing, accessories and homeware that speak about the place in which we live, designed by the sea for people everywhere. www.seasaltcornwall.co.uk Chris Hall Photography Widely regarded as a contemporary photographer, Chris is well known for his creativity and visual storytelling. From fashion to unique weddings to beautiful family images, Chris brings out the best in any situation creating images you can treasure. 07748 404751 chrishallproductions@hotmail. co.uk
ST. MARY’S AN ISLAND OF DISCOVERY AND ADVENTURE
St. Mary’s is the Isles of Scilly’s largest island. Covering an area less than 2.5 square miles, it is an island of colour and contrast that also acts as the gateway to and from the mainland and to the “off-islands” (Tresco, St. Martin’s, Bryher and St. Agnes). It’s also where 1,800 of Scilly’s 2,200 island residents live. Hugh Town serves as the central hub, nestling as it does on a sandy isthmus between two beaches with its cluster of shops, banks, churches, post office, cafés, galleries, restaurants and three pubs. Here you will also find the fascinating Isles of Scilly Museum – a real gem and a multifaceted introduction to the story of the islands’ past. St. Mary’s community tends to converge on Hugh Town for family events, fundraisers and a good night out! Town Beach is a great vantage point for looking across the harbour to the Quay whilst Porthcressa on the other side, boasts a lovely new promenade with sheltered seating, gardens, a children’s play park and Schiller Shelter (which has its own story to tell dating back to when SS Schiller was wrecked off Scilly in 1875). Around the corner from Hugh Town, St. Mary’s Quay buzzes with daily activity – as colourful tripper boats to and fro across the water to the other islands, sailors and fishermen come and go, and islanders set their watches to the daily arrival and departure of the Scillonian III. With only six miles of road and more than 30 miles of paths and nature trails (10 of them coastal) away from the gentle hubbub of Hugh Street and the Quay, St. Mary’s is an easy-going safe haven of hidden treasures…
www.visitislesofscilly.com
The Garrison is the heavily fortified headland beyond Star Castle, now one of Scilly’s most iconic hotels. The Garrison was the frontline of England’s defences since the 16th Century. It is accessed via the Garrison Gate, an original arched gateway that dates back to 1742 – or, if you can find it, Sally Port, a low passageway squirrelled within the thick defensive walls designed to defend against surprise attacks. A popular walk around the defences yields panoramic views of all the islands – a great starting point from which to get your bearings. Young children will also love the Pirate Ship play park and freedom to run on the Garrison field – host to the world’s smallest football league!
ST. MARY'S ESSENTIALS The Blue Box Flower Company
“The Paper Shop” (CJ Mumford)
Explore our new exhibition of the St. Mary’s and St. Agnes flower farms and growers at our shed located by St. Mary’s Airport, open every day May-Oct. We deliver handpicked Scented Narcissi to your home by courier.
Serving the islands’ newspaper, magazine and periodical requirements since 1904. Confectioner, stationer, tobacconist and bookseller – including Scilly’s longestrunning publication “The Scillonian”. Scilly’s only National Lottery outlet.
01720 423767 www.ScentedNarcissi.co.uk
20
01720 422438 clive@clivemumford.wanadoo. co.uk
Holy Vale Vineyard & Winery Situated in the tranquil Holy Vale. Open daily 12.30 – 16.30 for tasting, ‘The Story of Wine Exhibition’, Cellar Door Shop, refreshments and Robert’s Wine and Lobster Plate. Weekly evening tastings available, please call for details. 01720 422333 www.holyvalewines.co.uk
St. Mary’s offers the most in terms of island adventure. A great way to explore the wilder landscapes and escape “up country" is on foot. If you don’t fancy the walk, you can hire a bike in town or a golf buggy, or hitch a ride on the Island Rover or Community Bus. You can also horse-ride around much of St. Mary’s or set off on the water in a kayak! First stop might be the Lifeboat Station at the far end of Town Beach, which displays paintings, models and many accounts of past rescues. Next door, Porthmellon Beach is popular with families not just for the idyllic spot on the beach that is Spero’s, but also for the Sailing Centre which provides all the kit and caboodle for windsurfing, sailing and kayaking. Alongside are the gig sheds – worth a peek to check out the traditional six-oar pilot gig boats, one or two of which date back to 1830.
St. Mary’s is the Isles of Scilly’s largest island. Covering an area less than 2.5 square miles, it is an island of colour and contrast that also acts as the major gateway.
Opposite the beach, behind Radio Scilly, you’ll find Phoenix Craft Studios at Porthmellon Business Park, a hive of talented artistic activity, and (further on) Ales of Scilly, home of the micro-brewery. The whole area is protected by Harry’s Walls, the remains of uncompleted fortifications from 1551. Then head up the gentle hill – via the secluded Carreg Dhu Garden, a wonderful spot to seek solitude amongst beautiful exotic plants – to McFarland’s Down, perhaps via Juliet’s Garden Restaurant & Bar or the Kaffeehaus, to view the ancient Iron Age and Romano-British settlements at Bant’s Carn and Halangy Down. Further along the coast path you’ll reach the amazing Bronze Age tombs at Innisidgen just above the breathtaking Bar Point, which stretches toward St. Martin’s and Tresco and the site of a former causeway between the islands. Then meander, via the flower farms at Trenoweth, on to Watermill Cove and Pelistry Bay, where you can walk at low tide, “Famous Five” style, across to Toll’s Island for a mini-adventure.
The Atlantic A charming Inn located on the harbour in the heart of St. Mary’s. Interiors ooze character and enticing menus have an emphasis on local produce – sit back, relax and enjoy the stunning scenery. 01720 422323 atlanticinn@staustellbrewery. co.uk
Phoenix Craft Workshops, Porthmellon Business Park
Island Properties – Estate Agent
Take a 10 minute stroll to Porthmellon and visit this thriving cooperative of artists and craftspeople. Locally produced gifts and souvenirs. Tuition and workshops available for all ages and abilities – call for details and bookings.
Island Properties opened in 1989 by Tony Dingley, was the first independent estate agent on the Isles of Scilly. We deal with domestic and commercial property sales and can advise on the holiday and letting market.
01720 422900 www.phoenixcrafts.co.uk
01720 422327 www.scillyestateagents.com
Porth Hellick Bay epitomises much of Scilly with its nature GETTING ABOUT trail that stretches back to the tiny hamlet of Holy Vale ON ST. MARY'S (home to a newly-opened winery), amazing rock formations and its sheltered beach. It lays claim to the aptly named “loaded camel” rock and the memorial to Sir Cloudesley Book A Bike Shovell, the Admiral of the Fleet whose body was washed Quality mountain bikes for all ages. ashore here in 1707. Delivered to you for free. Bookable As you head back on the circular tour, you’ll reach Old Town, a beautifully-enclosed sandy bay flanked on one side by Old Town Church. It still holds Evensong services by candlelight, whilst the graveyard is dominated by a memorial to Augustus Smith, founder of Tresco Abbey Garden, and the final resting place of former British Prime Minister, Harold Wilson. The busy Old Town Inn, shop, artist studios and lovely Old Town Cafe also make this little haven an ideal base for a holiday. A short coastal walk around the headland from here back towards Hugh Town takes you out to Peninnis Lighthouse, and austere rock formations such as Pulpit Rock, Tooth Rock and Sleeping Giant.
and payable online. Discounts available. There’s no better way to discover our islands' hidden gems. 01720 422661 www.bookabikeonscilly.co.uk D.J. Cabs Reliable first class service from Scillonian taxi company operating 7 days a week. Airport and Garrison pick up. Meet and greet service from Scillonian and airport. 2 x 9 seater vehicles catering for up to 16 passengers. Dogs free.
Finally, you can wrap up the tour at the Buzza Tower just above Porthcressa Beach – once a windmill, now a camera obscura that provides incredible panoramic views and a side attraction that is a “cabinet of curiosities”.
01720 423775 www.djcabs.co.uk
Hugh Town on St. Mary’s is where the majority of shops are – and where you’ll find everything you need. From various fashion outlets, to a hardware store, delis, a butcher, newsagent, map shop, wine merchant, post office, banks, gift shops, and a small supermarket. Additionally each of the “off islands” – Tresco, Bryher, St. Martin’s and St. Agnes – has its own little general store and post office.
Simply the best way to explore St. Mary’s. Cheap and easy bike hire giving you the freedom to travel around at your leisure. Fun and easy for the whole family. Special offers available online.
St. Mary’s also hosts regular local produce markets, where Scillonian farmers and craft makers come together to sell their wonderful products – from soaps to scarves, icecreams, jams, fudge, local juices and much, much more. Community-held events across all the islands, such as the summer fetes, also showcase the islands’ local fare. What you won’t find on Scilly is a major retail chain! Just one traditional little high street from yesteryear supplemented with quaint road-side markets stalls.
St. Mary’s Bike Hire
07796 638506 www.stmarysbikehire.co.uk The Sailing Centre Scilly is the perfect place for watersports. Taster sessions, or full courses with RYA qualified instructors. Any age, any ability. Sail, windsurf, SUP, kayaks, kayak tours, RIB trips, hires & sales. For all your watersports needs anywhere in the islands. 01720 422060 www.sailingscilly.com Toots Taxi Offering a friendly, reliable and comfortable taxi service. Available for quay pick up/drop offs, meeting the Scillonian, tours, weddings and short trips. Working daytimes and evenings, seven days a week. 2 x vehicles seating 10. 01720 422142 / 07570 624669 www.tootstaxi.co.uk
TRESCO ESSENTIALS Bike Hire Cycling around couldn’t be easier. The Bike Hire (next to Tresco Stores) has adult, kids and tag-along bikes available on a daily basis or for the whole length of your stay. Please be sure to call the Island Office to book in advance. 01720 422849 www.tresco.co.uk Tresco Stores and Deli Scilly’s premium emporium, with superb delicatessen, local produce, Tresco beef, fresh fruit and vegetables, fine wines and cheeses. Ask about our Dine at Home menus, prepared daily by our chefs and delivered to your door. 01720 422806 shop@tresco.co.uk
TRESCO BAREFOOT SOPHISTICATION
The island of Tresco oozes class and sophistication, with its top-notch accommodation, fabulous deli, amazing eateries and award-winning spa. But they take nothing away from the magnificent heath land and rocky landscapes, unspoilt beaches and rich heritage. In short, Tresco has a special allure of its very own. One of the island's biggest attractions and a must-see for all visitors to the Isles of Scilly is the sub tropical Tresco Abbey Garden. Established by Augustus Smith in the 19th Century, it houses a spectacular collection of 20,000 plants from 80 countries, from Brazil to Burma and New Zealand to South Africa. The Valhalla collection within the Garden is equally impressive with its colourful figureheads salvaged from islands’ shipwrecks. Elsewhere, you’ll find an island packed with variety and interest. On the rugged coastline to the north, you’ll be able to listen to the ocean bellowing into Piper’s Hole and discover Bronze Age burial sites. The core of the island gives way to gentle, well-tended fields stocking the island’s beef cattle, shady woodland, and Tresco’s freshwater pools and three bird hides. You’ll enjoy some of the best views on Scilly from the ruins of ancient castles and fortifications, whilst the beaches, in particular the glorious curve of Pentle Bay, will definitely impress!
www.visitislesofscilly.com
Tresco is a place for beachcombers and walkers to do as they please. For the more active, there’s bike hire and a sailing school in the summer. Eating out, you can enjoy the fabulous Ruin Beach Café and excellent New Inn, scene of the island’s Ale and Cider Festivals and many a local band. Retail therapy can be found at Tresco Stores & Deli (referred to by some as Fortnum’s-onSea) and Gallery Tresco at New Grimsby, which hosts regular exhibitions. And keep your eyes peeled for the beautiful artwork dotted around the landscape.
ST. MARTIN'S ESSENTIALS Fay Page – Open Studio This beautiful studio, made from reclaimed materials and ship’s timbers displays lovely jewellery that is made on the island by Fay and her husband Rob. This popular Scilly brand is worn across Scilly, the UK and beyond. 01720 423017 www.faypage.co.uk Scilly Flowers Scilly’s postal flower service - pop into Churchtown Farm to order gift boxes of island grown, scented flowers and find out how this innovative flower farm works. 01720 422169 www.scillyflowers.co.uk
ST. MARTIN’S SIMPLY BREATHTAKING
St. Martin’s maintains a sense of island community that makes the most of its intense natural beauty. The first thing you’ll notice about St. Martin’s is the swathe of dazzling, sweeping beaches of powdery white sand, all lapped by translucent turquoise seas. From Bread and Cheese Cove and Lawrence’s Bay to Great Bay, Little Bay and Par Beach. All of them jostle for the honour of best beach in the UK. St. Martin’s most prominent feature is the striking red and white Daymark, erected in 1683 by Thomas Ekins, first steward of the Godolphin Family to live on the islands, and reached by an exhilarating walk across Chapel Down. The spectacular flowers, plant life, rare birds and sensational views along the cliff path walks all add to the thrill of St. Martin’s unmistakable beauty. Exploring the islets of Nornour, Ganilly and Menawethan, meanwhile, will also allow you to spot the colonies of seals not so far off shore. Yet behind these truly beautiful scenes, there lies an enterprising and diverse community. The 120 or so inhabitants are industrious folk. The award-winning St. Martin’s Seal Snorkelling and Dive School, St. Martin’s Vineyard, locally-inspired Fay Page jewellery, North Farm Gallery, Churchtown Farm (Scilly Flowers) and the Island Bakery are all based here together with the post office and general store.
www.visitislesofscilly.com
There is also a range of gorgeous visitor accommodation including the beautifully located St. Martin's Campsite and Karma St. Martin's hotel which re-opened in 2014. For sustenance, the Sevenstones Inn (which also re-opened last year, still with its spectacular views) and the Karma St. Martin's, along with Polreath Café and the Island Bakery are all choice spots! St. Martin’s is an incredible voyage of discovery, if not for a day, then for an entire holiday stay.
BRYHER ESSENTIALS Veronica Farm Fudge A family run business, producing quality fudge with all natural ingredients sourced locally and ethically where possible. We use milk, butter and cream from Troytown Farm on St. Agnes. Contact Kris Taylor www.veronicafarmfudge.co.uk
BRYHER AN ISLAND OF DRAMATIC CONTRAST
Pounded by Atlantic waves on one side; blessed with calm sandy beaches on the other: Bryher is a small island of dramatic contrast. Diverse and beautiful, hardy yet homely, it’s the perfect place to enjoy a taste of untamed Scilly. The sheer rugged beauty to the north of Bryher at Shipman Head gives way to the wilder west side where the Atlantic rollers thunder into Hell Bay. In the south, you can enjoy Rushy Bay – a stunning, secluded, white sandy beach that looks out across to Samson. And on the eastern beaches, you can marvel at the glassy blue waters as they lap gently at the white sandy beaches around Green Bay.
more than 150 feet above sea level. Yet all yield stunning sea views in all directions. The minute you step onto Bryher, you sense the strong community connection. Children run free and local produce stalls abound. The shop, which stocks an impressive array of foods and is well known for its tatty cake, the boatyard where you can hire kayaks and sailing dinghies, and the bar, campsite and an artist’s studio all enrich the simple pleasures that make up Bryher. And when the South Westerlies whip up, there’s nowhere better to storm watch than at the fabulous awardwinning hotel, Hell Bay!
In short, Bryher has a unique charm and never fails to impress. It’s no wonder that Bryher is just one and a half miles long by Michael Morpurgo found Bryher the half a mile wide. If you walk the coastal path, inspiration for his book Why the Whales you can climb the seven hills of Bryher in Came and that it provided the setting for just over five miles. Although the total climb the subsequent film. is nearly 1,000 feet, none of the “hills” rises
www.visitislesofscilly.com
ST. AGNES ESSENTIALS Troytown Farm & Dairy Troytown’s tiny dairy herd provides creamy milk for delicious ice cream and dairy produce. Farm reared pork and beef also available – visit our farm shop to try some, or we can deliver anywhere in Scilly. 01720 422360 www.troytown.co.uk Coastguard's Café Situated above Santa Warna Cove behind Coastguard Cottages with one of the wildest views in the UK. Family owned serving great coffee and delicious homemade lunches using local produce. Wifi access and lots of seating inside and out. 01720 423747 tristanhick@hotmail.co.uk
ST. AGNES DETERMINEDLY DIFFERENT AND RUGGEDLY BEAUTIFUL
St. Agnes is a thriving community of working farms and creative flair. It is proud, proactive and intent on maintaining its reputation for romance and resourcefulness. More recently, St. Agnes has been praised for the successful Seabird Recovery Project; rare Manx shearwaters started to breed on the island in 2014 for the first time in a generation. The island also boasts one of the best views from a pub garden anywhere in the UK, at the Turks Head – with Troytown Campsite views not far behind! Together with neighbouring Gugh, separated by a sandbar only at high tide, St. Agnes is Britain’s most south-westerly community. When all the other islands were connected as a single land mass, a deep channel separated St. Agnes from St. Mary’s. This feeling of independence remains even today.
You’ll notice straight away the island's most notable landmark – the lighthouse, which was built in 1680 by Trinity House with copper lamps and 21 revolving reflectors. Today it is a private house and simply serves as a daymark for shipping. On your travels, you’ll soon come across Beady Pool or the cricket pitch where legends tell of shipwreck victims buried under the chamomile lawns. We also recommend you sneak a peek at the tiny church’s striking stained glass window commissioned from local artist Oriel Hicks. Then head off in search of the circular maze of rounded beach stones on the west side of Castella Down, rumoured to have been built by a lighthouse keeper centuries ago. Periglis meanwhile, is a shell collector’s paradise with views across to Annet, the Western Rocks and Bishop Rock Lighthouse. Check out the sculptured rocks and cairns that dot Wingletang Down, and then head for Gugh to find the Old Man – a standing stone 9ft tall, believed to be associated with Bronze Age rituals. And don’t leave the island before tasting the delicious ice creams from Troytown Farm and Dairy! You can also sample the delights of the island’s eateries – the Turks Head, High Tide restaurant, Covean and Coastguard’s cafés – all of which add up to make St. Agnes a fabulous destination full of delights.
ISLAND HOPPING One of the greatest pleasures when staying on Scilly is to go island hopping and discover each island's distinctive charms. We have all the boats and experienced boatmen to take you where you want to go.
Scilly, as a group of islands, is incredibly compact. You can reach any island from another in just 10 to 20 minutes on a boat, making it very easy to "do" an island in a day. On St. Mary’s, the Boatmen’s Association run boats to St. Martin’s, Tresco, St. Agnes and Bryher, and further afield, every day throughout the season (April to October). Additionally, Tresco (serving both Tresco and Bryher), St. Agnes and St. Martin’s all operate their own local boat services offering trips and excursions, as well as regular water taxi services, from their bases to all the other islands. And then there are the specialist independent operators taking smaller parties on specific trips. Between them, they run oodles of trips every week to a plethora of islands. There are trips to see the seals and seabirds, to the iconic Bishop Rock Lighthouse, to the uninhabited islands where you can be dropped sometimes (and collected too, of course!). There are also evening trips throughout the summer to follow the gig races and “supper boats” that allow you to sample the pubs and restaurants of all the islands.
ST. MARY’S BOATMEN’S ASSOCIATION The brightly coloured “tripper boats” which grace St. Mary’s Quay and take visitors on daily trips and tours operate under the banner of St. Mary’s Boatmen's Association. There are 10 boats in total – Britannia, Golden Spray, Guiding Star, Kingfisher, Meridian, Osprey, Sapphire, Seahorse, Sea King and Surprise – all very beautiful and all steeped in the islands’ rich maritime history. The Association was established in 1958 when a number of passenger boat operators – all vying to attract the same trade – decided to work together. The collaboration continues to this day. Each boat is still individually owned and each skipper remains totally responsible for his own boat. If you’re planning a day out to one of the islands, simply head down to the St. Mary’s Boatmen’s Association kiosk located at the near end of the main quay (next to the Old Quay) or to one of the many ticket outlets (shops and hotels) in town. The Tourist Information Office also sells tickets. If the kiosk happens to be closed, or you’re running short on time, you can just as easily purchase your tickets on the boats.
All in all, Scilly’s boatmen make for a remarkable combination of island hopping capability, expertise and experience. You’ll feel safe and well informed – they always let you know about pick-up times and pick-up places – especially if the changing tides mean that you need to return from a different quay to the one you hopped off onto!
There’s no need to book for a particular trip. Association tickets can be used on any of their services and if one trip is particularly popular they’ll just bring another boat alongside to help out.
There are timetables chalked on boards at every turn, and many of the operators have their own Facebook pages and Twitter feeds letting you know about boat times. Tides mean that this isn’t like running a bus service, so always check. The good news is that all this flexibility means that the options are almost endless.
The inhabited islands beyond St. Mary’s Tresco, Bryher, St. Martin’s and St. Agnes – are known as the “off-islands”. Each has its own regular services, both for the islanders who live there and for the holidaymakers staying on them. So if you’re staying on an off-island, you’ll be able to make use of their boating companies – Tresco Boat Services (serving both Tresco and Bryher), St. Martin’s Boat Services and St. Agnes Boating. They run
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OFF-ISLAND SERVICES
similar style trips to those on St. Mary’s – so island hopping can start and finish wherever you’re based. They also provide daily water taxi services as well as scheduled trips. Everything is interconnected, making sure that locals and visitors have their needs well catered for.
SPECIALIST OPERATORS As well as the bigger boat operators across the islands, there are many smaller players offering a whole raft of specialist trips – day-long cruises to a number of islands, fishing trips, wildlife sea safaris, and under-water glass-bottomed discoveries. Calypso, Crusader, The Falcon, Firebrand IV and Sea Quest are all independently-owned boats based on St. Mary’s that provide specialist
excursions with a more personalised service for smaller parties.
KNOWING WHAT’S ON! During the summer, Scilly is buzzing with boats. There is a barely a moment when any quay is quiet, whichever island you’re on. Finding out what’s on and where to go is easy. Every morning, just before 9.15am, Radio Scilly (107.9FM) announces the trips of the day whilst the Tourist Information Office also has up to the minute news. If social media is more your thing, then you’ll be pleased to note that virtually all the boatmen are now on Facebook and/or Twitter. With some operators you can even book online. And if you like the old fashioned approach, you can check out the boards on the quays and around the islands.
TRAVEL INFORMATION Crusader Island Boat Trips No queues, no crowds and with only 12 passengers you can enjoy a personal and friendly service. Scenic cruises for seals and seabirds, direct trips to Tresco or daily private charter with local skipper David Hooper.
St. Martin’s Boat Services St. Martin’s Boat Services operates all year. Once you arrive there are regular trips from St. Martin’s to other islands and wildlife trips during the summer. Jet boat services can be arranged for private hire and trips to other islands.
07917 891962 www.crusaderboating.co.uk
07831 585365 t.a.perkins@btinternet.com
Falcon Boating The FALCON is a high speed 11 metre cabin RIB available for water taxi work around Scilly. Also licensed to carry up to 12 passengers between Scilly and Penzance which takes 90 minutes.
St Mary’s Boatmen’s Association Services to principal off-islands, trips out to seals, puffins and other sea and bird life. There are evening trips, also special offer discounts. With ten large boats we cater for groups and offer many choices.
07841 368987 www.falconboating.co.uk
01720 423999 enquiries@scillyboating.co.uk
St. Agnes Boating Offering wildlife safaris, scheduled and sea taxi services between St. Agnes and the other islands. Book online using our peace of mind transfer service and we guarantee to meet you even if you are delayed!
Tresco Boat Services Tresco Boat Services runs year round offering a seamless transfer from St. Mary's to your destination on Tresco or Bryher. Regular boat trips to other islands, trips to seek out birds and seals as well as round island trips exploring the islands marine heritage are available from February to October.
01720 422704 www.stagnesboating.co.uk
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01720 423373 trescoboats@tresco.co.uk
SEAWEEDS The seaweeds that had flopped and lain Dejectedly under the sun Are lifted now and stretching in And on salt water have again Through and through and in between Wellbeings all their own. That wrack’s a good example: how It spreads its nubbled fronds and plays Over the surface to and fro Fingeringly as the breeze And the in and out of ripples please. Only mechanics, I suppose. However, since the maths applied In that caressing hand exceed My head by far I am content To watch a sentient thing allowed To feel again and for a tide To revel in its element.
David Constantine is a freelance writer and translator. With his wife Helen, whose family is from St. Martin’s, he leases in a cottage on Bryher. ‘Seaweeds’ is taken from Nine Fathom Deep (Bloodaxe Books, 2009). David’s most recent volume of poems is Elder (2014). He first came to Scilly in 1967, at the time of the Torrey Canyon disaster.
AN ADVENTURE WITH RICH REWARD
I loved Scilly. It was enchanting... beautiful... unspoilt. You have to keep reminding yourself that you're in the UK – you'd think you were in the Caribbean. RUSSELL KANE, COMEDIAN AND FIRST-TIME VISITOR TO SCILLY
FLY OR SAIL? GETTING TO SCILLY IS EASY Getting to the Isles of Scilly is a truly unique experience and an adventure to embrace. Why? Because there can’t be many places in the UK where you arrive on holiday on an aircraft with just 19 seats – some only have eight – and a personal pilot who doubles as your tour guide as you enjoy spectacular views of the West Country’s coastline. Even seasoned travellers and returning residents feel their pulses quicken with excitement and anticipation as they approach the islands. They rise gently from the sea just 15 minutes by Skybus from Land’s End Airport, 30 minutes from Newquay Cornwall Airport or an hour from Exeter International Airport. Arriving by sea from Penzance is equally special… as soon as you set sail aboard the Scillonian III, you’ll sense a gentler pace of life. The journey gives you a stunning sea-side view of Cornwall’s quaint fishing villages, the worldrenowned open air Minack Theatre and the Land’s End peninsula. Quite often you will be joined on your journey by pods of dolphins and a raft of seabirds. Even the odd submarine has been known to salute Scilly’s very own gem of the Celtic Sea! And by the time you disembark on St. Mary’s Quay, on the main island, you're sure to be in holiday mode already.
Isles of Scilly Travel operates both Skybus and Scillonian III and prides itself on its rich island heritage. Whether you choose to fly or sail to the Isles of Scilly, the company works hard to ensure your journey is an experience to enjoy. No hustle and bustle of airport check-ins and no endless crowds – the antithesis of modern day travel and a journey with rich reward. However hard we might try, it’s not always sunny and warm on Scilly! Occasionally, high winds or low visibility means that there can be disruptions. There’s nobody better at keeping a weather eye open than a Scillonian – they, together with Isles of Scilly Travel, will keep you posted and help you make plans if you’re worried about the return trip. Arriving anywhere on holiday for the first time can be a little daunting, even when the welcome is as friendly as the one you get in Scilly. We know you’re not truly settled until you and, just as importantly, your luggage are safely over the doorstep of your accommodation. So read on to find out how it all works on arrival in Scilly.
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TRAVEL INFORMATION Skybus flights operate regularly to St. Mary’s (Scilly’s main island) from Land’s End, Newquay and Exeter Airports. A shuttle bus operates to and from Land’s End airport and Penzance Railway Station. You will fly in either the 8-seater Islander or 19-seater Twin Otter. There is plenty of parking at all airports, and a dedicated Park & Ride service in Penzance.
The Scillonian III passenger ferry operates six days a week from March to November (seven in high season) from Penzance to the Isles of Scilly. Although tides occasionally dictate travel times, generally speaking the boat leaves Penzance at 9.15am, arriving in St. Mary’s just before noon, and leaves St. Mary’s at 4.30pm arriving back in Penzance just after 7pm.
www.islesofscilly-travel.co.uk 01736 334220
www.islesofscilly-travel.co.uk 01736 334220
Sail to the islands any way you like! The Harbour Master’s office will be delighted to advise on visitor moorings at St. Mary’s, Tresco and St. Martin’s and a variety of other anchorages. We listen on VHF Channel 16 and the working Channel is 14.
Smuggler’s Inn at the Airways Hotel is just 300m from Newquay airport. Comfortable, quiet and relaxed. Family run by old Scillonian boatmen John Hicks and Rod Cresswell. Home cooked lunches and dinner. Very good rates for rooms and for peace of mind parking while you’re away.
www.stmarys-harbour.co.uk E: hm@stmarys-harbour.co.uk
www.theairwayshotel.org 01637 860595
First Great Western, the rail operator, offers a combined ticket that sees you travel by train to Penzance, including by night sleeper, and then connect either directly onto the ferry or onto a flight from Land’s End via a short transfer. The special deal is available from selected stations. www.firstgreatwestern.co.uk 0345 7000 125
Scilly Parking Secure car parking for customers travelling on the Scillonian III ferry. Door to door service provided. Passengers are taken to the quay with their luggage and are collected when they return from their holiday, avoiding long walks. Overnight accommodation is also available. 01736 740277 www.scillyparking.co.uk
AIR & SEA TRAVEL TO THE ISLES OF SCILLY
Newquay Cornwall Airport Land’s End Airport Penzance
Exeter International Airport
Edinburgh Newcastle Belfast City
Dublin
Liverpool
Isles of Scilly
Manchester Birmingham London Stansted London City
Key Direct flights to Scilly Flights to Gateway Airports
London Gatwick
Newquay Exeter Land’s End
ARRIVING BY AIR ON ST. MARY’S Let’s start with the new-look airport that stands atop a hill on St. Mary’s, the gateway to Scilly. Throughout 2014, the terminal building has been extended and totally refurbished, and the runways newly-laid with tarmac ready for the 2015 season. During high season our Isles of Scilly airport handles around 350 flights a week. And while it might sound overconfident to say it runs like clockwork, it does. First a pleasant surprise – your luggage appears almost as quickly as you do. If you’re staying on St. Mary’s, the team of taxi drivers will simply ask where you’re booked in to stay and will take you there. They know all the accommodation across the island, so you won’t need to provide directions; just the name will do! The service isn’t free, but neither is it expensive or complicated – a small flat rate will get you there and back at the end of your holiday. They’ll ask you when you’re booked on to your homeward flight and arrange to pick you up an hour before from where they drop you off. They’re good at it; they’ve been doing it for years. (If you’re staying in Old Town on St. Mary’s, you can, if you like, walk down the footpath from the airport – it’s no more than 10 minutes.) If you’re staying on Bryher, St. Martin’s or St. Agnes simply tell the taxi driver, and he or she will take you down to the quay and point you to the right boat and the right skipper. On your chosen island, you will be met and taken to where you’re staying. Ask your accommodation provider to help you make arrangements for your return journey. If you’re staying on Tresco, a member of their team will simply meet you at the airport and whisk you away on the Tresco Shuttle – you’ll be met on the island and your luggage taken care of too.
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Travellers with disabilities Isles of Scilly Travel always endeavours to support passengers with disabilities or reduced mobility. If you require travel assistance please inform them when you book. You can email sales@islesofscilly-travel.co.uk or speak to an Isles of Scilly Travel representative on 01736 334220.
ARRIVING BY FERRY AT THE QUAYSIDE Just like the airport, the Quay has undergone major refurbishment and repair throughout 2014, following the winter storms. And again, just like the airport, in high season the Quay is a hive of activity, particularly when the Scillonian III arrives alongside. Arriving is easy, especially if you've clearly labelled your luggage. It will be delivered to your accommodation without any intervention from you, giving you the freedom to just walk off the ferry and head straight into Hugh Town. On your return it is just as simple – check with your accommodation provider to fix the pick-up time of your luggage and it will be taken to the Quay and loaded for you. So here’s how it works: On St. Mary’s, your labelled luggage is collected by local hauliers who simply “do the rounds” around the island within a couple of hours of the Scillonian III’s arrival. Like the airport taxi service, it’s not free but at only £1.30 per piece of luggage it’s a great value-for-money service. If you’re staying on one of the “offislands” – Bryher, Tresco, St. Martin’s or St. Agnes – it’s just as easy. At the quay in Penzance you will be given a colour– coded island label – red for St. Martin’s, blue for Tresco, yellow for St. Agnes and green for Bryher – that ensures your
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luggage ends up on the right island! The local boat services from each of these islands are always there on the quay to meet the ferry and your luggage is transferred seamlessly on to the correct island boat. Once delivered, they, and you, will be taken to where you are staying by your accommodation host. Listen out on board the Scillonian III as you near the islands for the departure details of your island boat as, depending on the tides, they may leave at slightly different times – but never too long after you dock. The whole system works just the same in reverse when you’re returning home.
PERFECTION THROUGH A LENS Dr Merryn Thomas is a researcher and photographer based in South Wales. Her mum and dad run the vineyard on St. Martin's, and she returns to Scilly whenever possible.
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You'll never be quite the same Family legend has it that my seasick ancestor, en route to the Americas, begged to be dropped off on Scilly in the 1700s. And with mum’s side of the family still living on St. Martin’s, it was our holiday destination at least three times a year. These visits sparked a fascination for islands that I now pursue in both my research and photography. Rachel Field once wrote, ‘Once you have slept on an island, you’ll never be quite the same’. I think she’s right; although I grew up on the mainland, the Isles of Scilly will always be where I feel most at home. They have an enduring pull; for different reasons over time.
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Growing up As a child, the Isles offered unbridled freedom and adventure. Winter was my favourite. Short days spent walking unspoiled beaches, before hunkering down in Gran’s snug granite cottage as the wind howled around the eaves. The earthy scent of Granddad’s packinghouse, full of daffodils ready for market. Growing up, the islands were the perfect playground. Blown clean by fresh winds, returning home red-faced and weather beaten. Salty hair and sand-crusted toes. The Islands soon became the setting for holidays with friends; long summer evenings watching the gig races; singing all the way home under starry skies. Beach barbeques and catching mackerel for the fire.
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A photographer’s paradise For a while I travelled far from home, and couldn’t help but compare the Islands with each new place. “Beautiful here, isn’t it?” we would say; “Not quite Scilly, but beautiful”. Now the islands are an inspiration: the quality of light, a constantly shifting palette; a photographer’s paradise. I return year on year to swim the same seas and walk the same shores as before, but it’s never the same – the light changes, the colours are refreshed and new. Every time is different. But this will always be Scilly, the most special place on Earth.
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WILDLIFE ON SCILLY The Isles of Scilly are designated an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty and are very lucky to have their own Wildlife Trust. A tiny organisation with a big job, the Isles of Scilly Wildlife Trust looks after 64% of the islands. With a small staff and volunteer team, the Trust keeps open miles of paths each year to make sure visitors get to see the best bits of Scilly and actively manages the special habitats of the islands for the benefit of nature and people. www.ios-wildlifetrust.org.uk
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✔ Ocean Sunfish
Eelgrass
Song Thrush
Ocean sunfish are one of the largest of all bony fishes. They can weigh up to 1.5 tonnes and reach approximately 2m in size!
Unusual because it is a type of flowering plant which can reproduce underwater – it has waterproof pollen!
The song thrush is increasingly rare on the mainland but in Scilly there is a remarkably high population.
Puffins
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Scilly Bee The distinctive brown and orange Scilly Bee is unique to the islands.
Puffins arrive at the end of April and usually leave around mid-July. You should catch a glimpse!
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Orange Birdsfoot
Atlantic Grey Seals During good weather local tripper boats go to the Eastern Isles and Western Rocks to look at the seals.
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Red Squirrel
The Orange birdsfoot, native to Scilly is found nowhere else in Britain.
Small numbers of this popular mammal have been introduced to Tresco; if you're lucky you may spot one!
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✔ Black Back Gulls The largest gulls in the world. A breeding population thrives in the Eastern Isles.
Oystercatchers
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The striking black and white birds use their strong red bills to break in to shellfish.
Thrift
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Thrift gets a good foothold on bare rock by penetrating cracks with its long tap-root.
Starfish Often found washed up around the low tide mark and in rock pools.
✔ Scilly Shrew The Scilly Shrew (locally called a 'Teak') is not found on the British mainland.
✔ Leatherback Turtles Sea turtles are occasionally seen around the Isles of Scilly, on their migration routes.
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✔ Manx Shearwater From March to July this burrow nesting bird can be seen gliding or "shearing" over the surface of the sea.
✔ Common Dolphin Dolphins can sometimes be seen from the Scillonian III ferry and from other boats moving around the islands.
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✔ Crabs and Lobsters These crustaceans love the crevices and caves amongst rocks below the low tide point.
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Shells
Red Barbed Ant
Beautiful shells lie washed up on Scilly’s beaches, amongst the perfectly smooth pebbles and sparking white sand.
Named from the red hairs on its body. First discovered in 1896, it has always been rare.
DROWNED LANDSCAPE My a gar Sillina, my a gar Ennor. So sings the long-dead islander, below the billow’s roar My a gar howlsedhas, my a gar an mor. My chamber-grave beneath the wave, lies sunken far from shore. You’re welcome curious traveller, to ride out on the swell Do visit Craggyellis – the place I used to dwell. Observe these golden boulder rounds, submerged beneath the brine. Tho’ now they’re drowned and seaweed-crowned, this home and hearth were mine. I trod that sunken causeway track, through fields now claimed by sand. Where now you float your glass-hulled boat, I tilled and ploughed dry land. On the brow above Carnweathers, I kindled kindly light, Sillina’s name a beacon flame; kept shining through the night. In honour of my Goddess at every Eastertide, I ran the Troy Town turnings to welcome home my bride. But people need reminding, that they must respect the sea; We ceased her rites and one dark night the ocean came for me. Raging past Rosevear, Crebawethan further out, The Goddess roared with brandished sword; a dreadful waterspout. The sea rolled in vast mountains, across the Ennor plain My final breath in greeting death, was whispering her name. They say my Lord Ganilly galloped from the surge, Ashore at Chapel Idne they sang the funeral dirge, For all the old inhabitants whose lore and language died When the gates of the Atlantic flung open on the tide. If you set out for Lyonesse, as many souls have done Beyond the Wolf and Sevenstones, toward the setting sun, The floating archipelago, remember still her name; Keep in your mind, though seeming kind, Sillina is not tame. Nine inches every century she takes her islands back; Here a yard of foreshore, there a crumbling track, Here a wall and buttress, there a chamber grave. Where now lies land and silver sand, she’ll render endless wave. I’m just a long-dead islander sleeping ‘neath the sea But hark my song; before too long, you too shall lie with me. My a gar Sillina. My a gar Ennor. My a gar howlsedhas. My a gar an mor.
Will Coleman is a Cornish storyteller, theatre and film director. He cannot quite see Scilly from his home on the cliffs of West Cornwall.
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In search of foodie heaven. Loosening her waistband, journalist Sue Bradbury sets off to find out how our islands are winning a place on the food atlas of Britain. ight, sound, smell, touch and now taste – the Isles of Scilly have it all. Gaze at the stunning scenery (an easy way to while away hours at a time), listen to the waves lapping on the beach (or thundering spectacularly against far-off-rocks), breathe in the scent of the sea (somehow it always makes you feel better), feel the fine white sand (try scrunching it up between your toes) and enjoy an impressive range of excellent food and drink. With all its many other stunning attributes, Scilly’s growing reputation as foodie heaven risks getting overlooked. Therefore – hiding my bathroom scales from view and carefully selecting clothes with ‘stretch’ facility – I made it my mission to spend a couple of days sampling a few of its culinary highlights. Tresco is Scilly’s second largest island and a wonderful mix of legendary sub tropical gardens, rugged outcrops and top notch accommodation in beautiful, seaward-facing hamlets. I stayed at the award-winning New Inn – a friendly pub with the sort of deep, comfortable armchairs and squishy sofas in the lounge area that make you feel instantly at home. There is a good atmosphere in the www.visitislesofscilly.com
bar and my request for a pre-dinner gin and tonic resulted in a choice of several different varieties. Choosing Sipsmith’s London Dry (an independent distillery credited with spearheading a revival in London gin), I drank it on the terrace just a stone’s throw from New Grimsby’s small, sheltered harbour as the light dimmed and acres of sky turned spectacularly red. Tempted by the New Inn’s menu, I headed instead for the Ruin Beach Café – a pleasant ten minute walk away on the other side of the island. Recently awarded Condé Nast Traveller magazine’s Gold Standard rating, the former smuggler’s cottage has been transformed into a popular restaurant that has plenty of character, a great beachside terrace and staff who genuinely go the extra mile to make you feel welcome and at ease. My three-course meal was delicious – smoked salmon and pomegranate salad as a starter, Cornish hake and beetroot potatoes for main and two scoops of locally-based Troy Town ice cream for dessert. An added bonus was being seated next to the window and looking out across the water to the island of St. Martin’s, its few lights twinkling in the distance. As dinner venues go, it was up there with the very best.
An added bonus was being seated next to the window and looking out across the water
t. Mary’s is bigger and, by Scilly Vineyard and Winery with owner Robert standards, busier than Tresco. There Francis was an experience not to be missed. are plenty of very good cafés and After many years in the hotel industry, Robert restaurants to choose from but Spero’s, is a wine connoisseur – travelling the world in a converted boathouse on Porthmellon Beach search of affordable vintages to add to the cellar just along from the island capital Hugh Town, at the Star Castle Hotel and to his collection at is a great place to enjoy a meal, snack or coffee the vineyard. As his interest grew, so too did at any time of the day. a desire to produce I loved sitting out on wine of his own on In my view, the secret is the veranda with Scilly. His dream was my naughty but nice to prepare food simply and realised when, in 2008, caramel latte – a perfect bring out the flavour rather he planted 7,000 vines opportunity to relax (60% Pinot Noir, 30% whilst watching bobbing than drowning it in sauces. Chardonnay and 10% boats offshore. Pinot Gris) on seven We also grow a lot of our acres of land on St. own vegetables Juliet’s Garden was first Mary’s. Six years later, established 33 years he is about to harvest ago and has since evolved into a Gold Awardgrapes for his first batch of Holy Vale wine winning restaurant that is situated just above under the expert guidance of Willi Opitz, an Porthloo Beach and enjoys breathtaking views Austrian who has gained a reputation for being across St. Mary’s harbour. Andy O’Connor has one of the world’s most innovative winemakers. been the Head Chef there for the last four years of a 16-year career and is clearly passionate “We’re aiming for a small crop that is really good about sourcing most of the food he serves fresh. quality,” says Robert who freely admits that the art of good winemaking has many ups and "Our menu changes daily according to the downs. “Last year, birds decimated the grapes fish that are caught,” he explains. “Lots of so this year we’ve netted all the vines. If all goes people fish around here – including our well, we’ll be selling our first bottles in 2015.” local paramedic who goes out when he’s not working and brings us in some of the mackerel Whilst Robert may not be selling his own he catches. In my view, the secret is to prepare wine yet, he does do special tasting evenings food simply and bring out the flavour rather at 6pm on Wednesdays and Fridays. Each than drowning it in sauces. We also grow a lot event involves sampling five different wines, of our own vegetables." eating mini tapas and enjoying a proper glass of whatever wine is the taster’s personal I ate my light lunch of crab, salad and granary favourite. The vineyard, which offers some very bread at a table on the terrace. All around me appetising refreshments including Robert’s were people enjoying similar dishes whilst Wine and Lobster Plate, is also open to visitors chatting, laughing and generally having fun. daily from 12.30pm to 4.30pm. From my point The atmosphere was uplifting and, as ever on of view, Robert proved an excellent host and, Scilly, the surroundings were sublime. as I got to do my own bit of tasting, feel I have learnt a lot. Am I, for example, the only person A glass of good wine is the perfect who didn’t know that white wine is actually accompaniment to special meals out in my made from red grapes? They’ve just had their book so the prospect of visiting Holy Vale skins removed.
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Spero’s Beach Café and Restaurant Spero’s enjoys a stunning location on Porthmellon beach just a few minutes’ walk from town. Café by day, restaurant by night. Sit on our deck and soak up the beach life or enjoy the sunset with a fantastic meal prepared with fresh local ingredients. 01720 422521 www.speros.co.uk Kaffeehaus Salbei A unique Bavarian café on Scilly. It specialises in delicacies such as Apfelstrudel, fresh German Bread, German beer and smoked sausages. Open daily from 11am-5pm. We are in the Scilly Food Guide for both our food and our relaxed ambience. 01720 422440 Sage House, High Lanes, St. Mary’s
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Star Castle Hotel
The Mermaid Inn
The castle boasts two award-winning restaurants, serving a daily changing five course menu featuring locally caught seafood and local produce.
Your first port of call on St. Mary’s. You will always find real ales flowing in our traditional bar and quality cuisine in our contemporary restaurant and bistro. Open every day for food and drink.
Wines to complement your meal are chosen from the finest vineyards from around the world.
01720 422701 www.mermaidscilly.co.uk
01720 422317 / 423342 www.star-castle.co.uk Juliet’s Garden Restaurant & Bar Perfect seaside eating – homemade and imaginative dishes served inside or out on our terraces, enjoying unrivalled views of the sea, boats and harbour. Open daily and most evenings. Fabulous food. Fabulous view. 01720 422228 www.julietsgardenrestaurant. co.uk
The Seven Stones Inn Recently refurbished, family run free house, taking pride in serving a good pint with arguably the best pub view in the world. Home to live music, comedy, theatre & film screenings. Lunch & supper served daily. 01720 423777 The Seven Stones Inn, Lower Town, St. Martin’s
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y second night was spent at the Star Castle Hotel – an authentic 16th century fortress owned by Robert and his family that has plenty of history within its massive walls. Originally built on the instruction of Queen Elizabeth 1 in 1593 as a defence against Spanish invaders, the castle has hosted a long line of distinguished visitors
Once upon a time, a king might have slept here too but thankfully there wasn’t any sign of him whilst I was there - including Charles I who stayed there for four days in 1623 and his son Charles II who used it as a temporary bolthole when being pursued by the Roundheads in 1646. My room was on the first floor and came complete with four poster bed, large bathroom and a walk in wardrobe. Once upon a time, a king might have slept here too but thankfully there wasn’t any sign of him whilst I was there so, after a drink in the aptly-named dungeon bar, I made my way to what was previously the venue for an important Council of War in 1651 and is now the hotel restaurant.
No foodie tour of Scilly would be complete without a visit to the Hell Bay Hotel on Bryher and its famous Crab Shack. Basically a shed in the middle of the hotel golf course, the shack has fishnets hanging from the ceiling and tables and benches for communal eating. Guests are given aprons to put on and then, armed with crackers, picks and paper towel, are served freshly caught and cooked crabs in their shell. For those who don’t want crab, other seafood, side orders, vegetarian options and desserts are available – together with a simple choice of white, red or rose wine (all a fixed price) plus beer, lager and soft drinks. “It’s all about having fun, sharing a very rustic eating experience and meeting new people,” says Hell Bay’s Head Receptionist Francesca McNeill. “We started it two years ago doing just two nights a week but it’s proved so popular that we’re planning to increase to four or five nights a week in 2015. The crabs are each served in a copper dish - with a lid that is used for all the discarded bits of shell. A lot of guests have never eaten crab in that way before so it’s a great way of learning what to do whilst having a good laugh. The atmosphere is terrific – which is why there are often waiting lists.”
Open to non-residents, it is Unfortunately the Crab the perfect place to enjoy Shack had shut for the a special meal. You can’t season whilst I was there look out on the water but but I did go and see the the beamed ceiling, huge shed where it all takes place old fireplace and candlelit and can only imagine the It’s all about tables have a charm all of enjoyment to be had from having fun, sharing their own. Unsurprisingly, getting together in such the room was full and, a beautiful spot, putting a very rustic eating although the prospect of a to one side and experience and meeting decorum five course set menu might getting back to basics. new people sound daunting, the culinary Phillip Callan, who runs focus was on quality, flavour the award-winning Hell and presentation rather than huge helpings. Bay Hotel (another wonderful place to stay or Some years ago, I joined friends there for an just eat), says it’s proved a real winner. “People 18th birthday celebration and am pleased to come over from Tresco in their droves to try report that, in terms of fine dining, standards it out so I’m hoping to organise evening boats are better than ever. from other islands, including St. Mary’s,” he says. www.visitislesofscilly.com
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Scilly is sensational – idyllic islands, stunning scenery and extraordinary eateries. Just as well there’s lots of good walking too!
Polreath Tea Room Delicious homebaked cakes, freshly prepared lunches, afternoon cream teas or just a local beer; a warm welcome awaits you in our conservatory, plantsman’s garden or traditional Scillonian glasshouse. Open Sunday to Friday, April to September. Higher Town, St. Martin’s www.polreath.com
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There’s only so much eating and drinking a girl can do in just over two days so, though I didn’t manage to get to them this time, take it from me these places are brilliant for tickling the taste buds too: The Turk’s Head on St. Agnes – Britain’s most south westerly inn with garden views to die for; Troy Town Farm Shop on St. Agnes – their ice cream is second to none – and Polreath Tea Rooms on St. Martin’s which specialises in scrummy home-baked cakes, lunchtime snacks and amazing cream teas.
St. Martin’s Vineyard, Winery and Visitor Centre Enjoy an informative tour and sample our unique selection of wines - or simply visit the visitor centre/shop. Open Tues, Wed, Thurs (11.00-4.00pm), by appointment or when the gate is open! See a working vineyard in action. 01720 423418 graham@stmartinsvineyard. co.uk
The Island Bakery Artisan breads, traditional Cornish pasties, filled rolls, hot savouries, pies, tarts, a selection of cakes, fair-trade coffee and homemade lemonade all freshly prepared and handmade on our premises using the finest local and Cornish ingredients. 01720 422111 www.theislandbakerystmartins.com
A HUNGRY WEEKEND ON TRESCO Catherine Lux is a travel and lifestyle blogger based in London, but has traced her Scillonian ancestry back to the 1600s. She recently took some time to travel back to her motherland and take in the Tresco and Bryher Food Festival. This is an extract from her blog ‘LuxLife’. Read more at www.luxlife-blog.com
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An island of heavenly food I can trace my direct ancestral lineage on the Isles of Scilly back to my seven times great grandparents, the Woodcocks, in the 1600s. My Scillonian ancestors lived on Scilly until very recently, as my Granddad and his sister lived there with his grandparents, aunts and cousins during World War II. So to say I was excited about returning for the Food Festival is an understatement. The Tresco and Bryher Food Festival is a highlight of the Scilly summer calendar. Local farming and agriculture is so important to the islands, it’s the perfect opportunity to show what they can produce. Previously I’d only ever stayed on the main island St. Mary’s, but my family all come from Tresco, so to actually stay on the island for the first time and really explore it, as well as sample the local food, was really lovely.
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Day 1 – Exploring Tresco Saturday was spent eating a lot of food; in the morning there was a market in "Smith Square", the main square on Tresco, with everything from Tresco Prosecco, Troytown Farm ice cream, yoghurt and clotted cream, and Scilly Ales, to local crab, lobster and duck. As well as my ice-cream I also picked up a pot of Troytown clotted cream (to eat by myself in my room with my shortbread biscuits. If you can't do it on holiday, when can you?!). After wandering around the market and sampling the delights and wares, I took my goodies back to my room at the New Inn and then strolled around the island, looking forward to a sumptuous meal at The Flying Boat Club in the evening.
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Day 2 – A boat to Bryher For the second day of the festival I got the boat across to Bryher, where we were dropped off on a tiny jetty on the beach. Today the local fare was centred on market stalls at the tiny island's community centre, and I enjoyed sampling plenty of tasters and picking up some bags of Veronica Farm Fudge, I walked up towards the Hell Bay Hotel and sat on the beach, for a while lost in my own thoughts. After some beach combing, I ate the entire bag of chocolate fudge to myself (!). Then I walked around the southern half of the island, with a few hours to kill before dinner at the famous Crab Shack. It had been a lovely weekend - surrounded by peace and tranquillity, beautiful scenery and a lot of eating sumptuous food. A much-needed weekend away by myself, with time to just stop, think and rejuvenate.
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To wander its long avenues and terraces among massive palms is to think yourself in another world. ALEX CLARK, ES MAGAZINE, LONDON EVENING STANDARD
LIKE NOWHERE ELSE IN ENGLAND
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Don’t let Scilly’s tranquillity fool you. Whilst undoubtedly a serene, beautiful place to be, there are plenty of activities to keep every member of the family occupied – from exploring wild and wonderful coves and carns on foot to taking to the water, getting on horseback, playing golf, cycling and discovering exotic plants.
Active? You bet. resco Abbey Garden is a must-see visit. so that you can enjoy a coffee, leisurely lunch, First established more than 150 years ago, cream tea, or all three, as you go on your way. the south-facing hillside has been lovingly transformed over the centuries One of Scilly’s greatest draws is its spectacular into a horticultural paradise. Brightly wildlife and birdlife. On St. Mary's, there are coloured birds wander along its many paths, two nature reserves – the Higher Moors Nature spectacular pieces of art draw the eye in Trail together with Porth Hellick Pool, and unexpected places and acres of lush flora Lower Moors Nature Trail. On St. Agnes, you can collected from countries as far afield as Australia, now marvel at Manx shearwater breeding sites, South Africa, New Zealand thanks to the highly successful and Brazil combine to Seabird Recovery Project. Manx With more than achieve a truly magical shearwaters began breeding 20,000 plant species, on the island last year for the experience. With more than 20,000 plant species, there are always lots first time in a generation - a real there are always lots of triumph. On Tresco, go find the of flowers in bloom – friendly flowers in bloom – even in red squirrels, introduced even in the middle the middle of December. in 2013, that might just eat nuts Towering palm trees, giant from your hands! of December lipstick-red flame trees, great blue spires of Echium and a host of Of course, no trip to Scilly would be complete succulents make it an outstandingly memorable without making the most of its glorious garden and, when you’ve finished admiring the maritime setting. An Island Sea Safari in a Rigid intense beauty of your surroundings, there’s the Inflatable Boat (RIB) will give you a guided tour Valhalla Museum and its unique collection of of some of the islands’ bird and seal colonies, shipwrecked figureheads to look at too. wreck sites and provide lots of fascinating information about the area’s long and varied If walking is your passion, there's no better place history. There’s also an underwater magnifier to indulge than Scilly. There are more than 30 so you can see what lies below the surface and miles of nature trails and walks on St. Mary’s onboard binoculars help bring puffins, razorbills, alone, while all the off-islands offer fantastic guillemots and seal pups sharply into focus. opportunities to walk their length and breadth. Sea Quest is a glass-bottomed boat which can And there are plenty of inviting pit stops never be easily spotted in St. Mary’s harbour. Two large too far away (on the inhabited islands at least!) windows are located each side of its keel
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– providing wonderful underwater views that range from forest-like beds of seaweed populated by fish, crabs and star fish to the almost white sands of the sea bed. No more than 12 passengers are taken out a time and one or two hour trips are offered.
A wealth of little inlets, white sandy beaches and rugged outcrops to investigate The Calypso, Crusader and Falcon too, all offer bespoke boat trips for smaller parties. Choose between three islands in one day, wildlife adventures, seabird and seal spotting and more. For those wanting to get even closer to the water, there are award-winning seal snorkelling excursions from St. Martin’s. No previous knowledge or skills are required, wet suits and other equipment are provided and a diving instructor is on hand to guide and assist. There’s nothing quite like being with these endearing, wide-eyed creatures in their own environment – they’ve even been known to Island Sea Safaris Island Sea Safaris operate a morning or afternoon RIB wildlife sea safari, taking you around and amongst the islands and rocks of Scilly, to look at seal colonies, sea birds, wreck sites and many areas of historical interest. 07747 615732 www.islandseasafaris.co.uk Sea Quest - The Glass Bottom Boat A trip around various uninhabited islands for seals, seabirds (Puffins in season) viewing the seabed as you travel around and land on the island(s) of the day for approx 4 hours or return to St. Mary’s 13:00. Morning trips depart at 10.30. 01720 422354 / 07795 022311 rozamond.hicks@gmail.com
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sneak up on snorkellers and nibble at their fins! With a wealth of little inlets, white sandy beaches and rugged outcrops to investigate, kayaking is an increasingly popular Scilly sport. You can hire kayaks from Green Bay on Bryher, and from Porthmellon Beach on St. Mary’s and, paddle in hand, set off at your own gentle pace. Tresco, Samson and St. Martin’s are all within easy reach and, if you borrow some fishing gear, you could even catch dinner as well. Gig racing has become a major Scilly sport since the World Pilot Gig Championships, which are held on the islands during the first May Bank Holiday weekend, were first launched 26 years ago. They attract around 130 crews from all over the world, thousands of spectators and the atmosphere is electric. If you’re not able to make that particular event, it’s still entertaining to watch local teams competing hard throughout the summer. Ladies race on Wednesday evenings, men on Fridays, and tripper boats are often laid on to follow them. You can of course go sailing or windsurfing too. With fully qualified and experienced instructors
The Isles of Scilly Golf Club,The Clubhouse & Bowling Green Relaxed and informal and open to everyone. We have a 9 hole, 18 tee course and provide everything you need to play. The Clubhouse serves delicious lunches and dinner with superb views from the restaurant and balcony. Bowling green – £2.50 PPPH a great family activity. ‘2 for 1’ on Green Fees on Tuesdays. 01720 422692 www.islesofscillygolfclub.co.uk
St. Martin’s Dive School Come snorkelling with seals for an unforgettable, award winning, wildlife experience. No snorkelling experience is required and all equipment is provided. We also offer scuba diving and can cater for all levels of expertise. 01720 422848 www.scillysealsnorkelling.com www.scillydiving.com St. Mary’s Riding Centre A warm welcome awaits you at St. Mary’s Riding Centre. We offer riding lessons and scenic beach and coastal treks on beautiful and well mannered horses. We cater for all abilities, including first time riders. 01720 423855 www.horsesonscilly.co.uk
offering tuition for the total novice or coaching for the more advanced, the Isles of Scilly Sailing Centre has its main base on St. Mary’s and a teaching site on Tresco during the summer. At Bennett Boatyard on Bryher you can also hire your own dinghy. There are plenty of pretty country lanes, quiet farm tracks and impressive coastal bridleways on St. Mary’s and one way of enjoying them is on horseback. The island’s fully licensed Riding Centre is situated just minutes away from Pelistry Beach – meaning a paddle on a well-mannered horse through shallow, crystal clear waters is also an option. Safety helmets are supplied. Inspired by the wealth of natural beauty surrounding them, Scillonians are unsurprisingly creative. Gallery Tresco is an airy converted boatshed that has been exhibiting some of Cornwall’s finest art for more than 20 years and is well worth a visit. For jewellery, a trip to the Fay Page workshop on St. Martin’s is a must. Beautiful pieces – ranging from necklaces to cufflinks, bracelets to earrings – are made there and even the cabinets they are displayed in have been lovingly fashioned from old ships’ timbers. On St. Mary’s, take a look round the Silver Street Gallery – a working studio where landscape artist Steve Sherris exhibits paintings that bring Scilly’s many different aspects vividly to life. Phoenix Craft Workshops, on the little business park at Porthmellon, is another Aladdin’s cave. Run as a cooperative, it includes Oriel Hicks who fuses coloured glass to make dishes, window hangers, coasters and more, screen and linocut printer Vicki Heaney, fabric designers Liz Askins and Julia Williams, beaded jeweller Victoria Carter, and Erica Hicks who creates bags and
belts in leather as well as making very original cards and handmade notebooks. Art and craft classes for both adults and children are available. With evidence of human life on the islands stretching back 3,000 years, there is a greater density of historical sites on Scilly than anywhere else in the British Isles. At Bant’s Carn on St. Mary’s, there’s a Bronze Age grave and, close by at Halangy Down are the remains of an Iron Age settlement. Evidence of early Christian chapels can be seen on St. Helen’s, Tean and St. Martin’s and there are standing stones at Long Rock, St. Mary’s, the Old Man of Gugh and Menhir on Chapel Down, St. Martin’s. For those wanting to find out more, the museum on St. Mary’s has a fascinating array of collections. Alternatively why not book a highly informative guided walk with resident guide Katharine Sawyer? Exploring (get those hiking shoes out and discover incredible vistas everywhere you go), shopping (being 28 miles from the mainland doesn’t mean you can’t indulge in a little retail therapy in the likes of Hugh Town’s Sandpiper, 49 Degrees, Seasalt and Mumfords), fishing (the possibilities are endless), bird watching (you don’t have to be an ornithologist to appreciate Scilly’s incredible range of native and migrant feathered friends), playing golf (on a course with sensational views) and even going to the theatre (Miracle Theatre regularly visits, as do other touring shows) – there’s plenty to do and see.
Scilly is all about relaxation, kicking-back and having fun. So take a deep breath on arrival, open your eyes to the possibilities and simply enjoy
ISLAND TO ISLAND Jim Parker is a UK photographer currently living on another beautiful island – the North Island of New Zealand. We recently came across Jim’s blog post featuring some unique shots of Scilly, so we asked him to tell us more about his experience on the Isles.
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We love the photographs you’ve taken during your visit. What were your impressions of the islands when you first arrived? My immediate thought as we approached Scilly was the strikingly blue colour of the water. The Islands felt much more tropical in their appearance than I had ever thought possible in the UK. As we approached St. Mary’s and the details of Hugh Town became more clear, it felt like I was looking at a very old, charming and quintessentially English village that had been dropped on an archipelago somewhere near the equator!
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Could you tell us about the stories behind the places and people we see captured here in your series of island images? I had a great few days exploring the islands of St. Mary’s and St. Martin’s with my friends from Cornwall. Most of us had already heard about how stunning the isles were - yet we were all completely blown away by their beauty when we saw them for ourselves for this first time. I wanted to capture some of the culture of the islands and their natural charm so I simply took my camera along with me wherever we went - I ended up documenting the whole weekend!
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From a photographic point of view, are there any features of the Scilly that are particularly interesting to explore from behind the lens? The light is definitely an interesting aspect of the islands. Whilst we were there, we experienced many different qualities of light – from a dark and moody lightening storm and an overcast day to a spectacular sunrise. As a photographer, it was great to be able to work with this variety.
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A great big thank you to all of the Scillonians who have modelled, scribbled, proofread, ferried, guided, snapped lovely new photos and given permission to use others, dug deep and generally bent over backwards to make this lovely guide possible. Buying local matters to us, and our marketing, creative and production teams are all based in, or are regular ‘friends of’, Scilly and Cornwall. We have tried really hard to make sure the information in this guide, including the adverts, is accurate. Sorry, but the Islands’ Partnership can’t accept any liability for errors, omissions, or any inconvenience you may have been put to as a result. Marketing, design and production Wolf Rock Cover image Carolyn Mendelsohn Illustration Rose Darling Print Four Way Print, using vegetable based inks on paper from a sustainable FSC certified source.
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Many of the stunning photos you see in this guide were selected from the Isles of Scilly Photo Competition 2014. They were taken by: Nicola Blewett 7 Francoise Lorenc 13 Steven Burbidge 9, 32 Louise Manning 62 Robert Cole 62 Claire Moir 62 Andrew Cox 30 Norbert Moricz 24 Bryony Garrett 11 Daniel Oxenham 10 Lee Hollyer 11 Mary Slingo 12, 31, 62 Hayley Hussell 62 Richard Smith 62 Mark Ives-Armitage 62 Fiona Waters 50, 62 Jemma Lessware 25 Martin Williams-Peck 62 Paul Lewis 24 Other photos were taken by: Bob Berry Matt Jessop Robert Birkby Rob Lea James Darling Rachel Lewin Chris Dicken Catherine Lux Diggory Gordon Alistair MacNichol Chris Hall Graham Mealand Duchy of Cornwall Carolyn Mendelsohn Isles of Scilly Travel Alasdair Moore Isles of Scilly AONB Phil Nicholls Partnership Jim Parker
John Peacock Phoenix Studios Chris Robbins Valerie Singleton Richard Smith Merryn Thomas Chris Tickle Tregarthens Hotel Fiona Waters Adam White
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Isles of Scilly Airport Porth Minick
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No dogs allowed (May to Sept)
Deep water moorings
Tourist Information Centre
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Harbour
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Lighthouse
Register Office
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Indoor swimming pool
Bowling
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Golf course / Pitch and putt
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Islands’ Partnership Steamship House, Hugh Street, Hugh Town, St. Mary’s, Isles of Scilly TR21 0LL 01720 424036 enquiries@islandspartnership.co.uk
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St Helen’s Tean Lower Town Old Grimsby
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Rushy Point
The Town
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Par Beach
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Green Bay
Pentle Bay
Norrard Rocks
Appletree Bay
Eastern Isles Bar Point
Samson
Cornwall due East 28 miles >
Toll’s Island Pelistry Bay
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Deep Point
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Visitor Information
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