November december 2014 by Sinead Lenehan

November/december 2014

TALKING SHOP Exclusive interview with Ray Hernan, CEO of Arnotts

YOUR SAY Northern Irish retailers share their views

SHOWTALK The need-to-know from the 2015 trade show calender

NEWS The latest from the domestic fashion sector

SHOWCASE JANUARY 18TH – 21ST RDS DUBLIN

VISIT SHOWCASE 2015 AND DISCOVER BEAUTIFUL FASHION, KNITWEAR AND ACCESSORIES FROM MANY OF IRELANDS LEADING DESIGNERS. REGISTER NOW AT SHOWCASEIRELAND.COM

contents Welcome to the November/December issue of Futura

November/December 2014

magazine. Proving that the best things often come in small packages, this edition may be svelte but we’ve packed a lot between the covers. The latest news and developments in the domestic and

News

international fashion sectors? Check. A comprehensive guide to the best trade shows in the first quarter of 2015? Check. A look at

The latest news, views, developments and appointments in the fashion sector

some of the hottest labels making waves in the fashion sector? Check.

Showtalk

We’ve even popped over to Galway to run the rule over a leading

The need-to-know on the key events in the trade show calender

menswear independent and, closer to home, secured an exclusive interview with Ray Hernan, Arnotts’ new CEO, who, on page 17,

Talking Shop

shares with us his vision for the iconic

Interview with Arnotts’ new CEO, Ray Hernan

Henry Street department store. We’re back next month. In the meantime,

Vox Pop: Six of the Best

we hope you enjoy the read!

We speak with six of Northern Ireland’s menswear indies

Best wishes, Alexander

Alexander Fitzgerald Features Editor mail@futuramagazine.ie

See us on

Brand Watch The low-down on the latest labels to watch

Shopcall 23 Our mystery shopper runs the rule in Galway

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FUTURA Ireland’s Fashion Business Magazine

Futura | November/December 2014

news DUNDRUM TOWN CENTRE SET FOR €1BN SALE Dundrum Town Centre is on the verge of finding itself new owners. Joe O’Reilly

FASHION STUDENT WINS €10,000 PERSIL IRISH FASHION AWARDS PRIZE NCAD fashion student Amie Egan has won the final of the 15th Persil Irish Fashion Awards. The 23-year-old received €10,000 from the world-famous laundry detergent brand, while her winning mother and child’s outfits will be manufactured and sold in selected Dunnes Stores nationwide. The theme of this year’s competition was Persil Play Date. Rosalind Brown from Persil commented: “Our brief to students was to design and make an outfit suitable for a fun day at the park. The designs needed to be casual, machine washable and durable to allow families to concentrate on fun, messy play - safe in the knowledge that Persil will take care of the tough stains.”

Nama, who inherited vast debts attached to the South Dublin retail hub from AIB and Anglo, financial institutions that loaned hundreds of millions to developer Joe O’Reilly, will initiate the sale. The price tag is currently around €1bn, property experts predict, with bids expected from Asian sovereign wealth funds.

The Persil Irish Fashion Awards provide a once-ina-lifetime opportunity for young, aspiring fashion design students to make their mark in today’s highlycompetitive fashion industry. Persil teamed up once again with the celebrated Irish fashion designer Peter O’Brien, and along with Carolyn Donnelly from Dunnes Stores, he was given the task of adjudicating the competition.

Before the announcement, Amie Egan, a recent NCAD graduate, conveyed the importance of emerging triumphant in such an auspicious competition saying, “Winning this competition would be the most exciting thing to come of my progress as a designer so far. It would be the utmost privilege and a major advance in my career. Not only would it offer a wonderful platform to present my work to an Irish audience but it would also finance my upcoming projects.” Carolyn Donnelly from Dunnes Stores revealed that it is always “a difficult decision choosing a winner and this year was no exception. However, the fact that the winning design must fit the brief of being washable and easily manufactured helped narrow the choice down for us. Amie Egan adhered to Persil’s brief really well, and we just knew that the oversized parka coat with its fabulous knitted trim detail and the child’s cool sweatshirt with great embroidered motif were perfect. The easy washing fabrics, wearability and distinct design, made it really commercial.”

Aime Egan winning €10,000

A previous valuation of the property had suggested that its worth was closer to €700m, but a recovery in the market has since seen a rise in value. Opened in 2005, the shopping centre has annual footfall of 19 million and a stable of tenants that generates a retail income of €50m a year, meaning its new owners can expect a return of around five per cent a year. The imminent sale of the Dundrum Town Centre, whose tenants range from luxury retailers such as Harvey Nichols and BT2 to Tesco, HMV and Penneys, will only be the third major retail development to have occurred in Ireland since the financial crises. West Dublin’s Liffey Valley Shopping Centre saw HSBC and international property fund Hines buy a majority stake earlier this year for €235m, while the Acorn portfolio, which consists of shopping centres in Blackpool, Balbriggan and Clonmel, was bought for €170m by Minneapolis-based Varde Partners. It is believed that Irish firms would find it difficult to carry out a deal of this scale, so instead it’s thought that investors from Asia are the most likely candidates to be the centre’s new owners. Dundrum Town Centre

OASIS RECORDS LOSS High-street chain, Oasis, recorded losses of €800,000 for the year ending March 2013. The ladies’ retailer had revenues of €17.3 million, down from €18 million the year before. These results left the company battling retained losses of €5.7 million. With 25 stores and 252 employees in Ireland, the company conceded that, despite the fact that retail sales rose by 4 per cent in the last year, the sector was still facing difficulties, but they are confident that

Futura | November/December 2014

sales growth and profitability are in the horizon.

ALL IMPORTANT TRENDS. ALL STRONG BRANDS. IN A FIRST-CLASS ENVIRONMENT.

GDS-ONLINE.COM

DÜSSELDORF 4 – 6 FEB 2015

news ARNOTTS LAUNCH NEW LOYALTY CARD Following two years of development, Arnotts has launched its new Wonder Card.

SKOPES RECORD SALES GROWTH

With the Wonder Card, customers can collect and spend points anytime, anywhere and on anything in-store and online, and transactions can be made with a Wonder Card or with the free-to-download Wonder Mobile App, available from the Apple & Google Play stores. There are no restrictions, even when it comes to sales. The Arnotts Wonder Card earns customers one Wonder Point for every euro spent in-store and online. What’s more, anything purchased from the beauty department earns double Wonder Points. Customers will also earn triple bonus points three days before, the day of, and three days after their birthday. Aside from using their points to make purchases, customers can also save up their points and treat themselves to a limited edition Works Wonders Box delivered straight to their door. The box comes with specially selected deluxe-size treats wrapped up inside. Only 500 are available each year with the first collection released pre-Christmas.

LILA CALYPSO FOR IRISH COUTURE

Tailoring company Skopes has registered a buoyant selling season for SS15.

SHIRT STALWART TO RETIRE

Powerscourt Shopping Centre’s Irish Couture has recently introduced the brand new Irish label, Lila Calypso.

Managing director Simon Cope attributed these gains to strong preparation ahead of the trade show season, saying that it had been marketing the brand to potential buyers in the two months ahead of the shows in order to build awareness.

The boutique, which prides itself on supporting upand-coming home-grown talent, welcomed a small selection of designs from the Irish company’s A/W collection but intends to expand on their relationship over the coming months. Lila Calypso is definitely making its mark on the Irish fashion scene with their collections now found in stores throughout the country, in counties as varied as Donegal, Cork and Longford.

After a career spanning 45 years in the clothing industry, Geoff Phipps retired this October. Brand Director for Double Two for the last eight years, Phipps had previously held senior positions with the Crowther Group, having commenced his career with Van Heusen and Coats Viyella Group of Companies. A spokesman for Double Two said, “The Directors would like to thank Geoff for his significant contribution to the success of the company. We will miss his experience, humour and love of colour, and hope he will have a long and happy retirement.” Double Two has recently announced the appointment of Lee Bromley, Director of Sales and Marketing, to succeed Geoff Phipps. Previously with Peter Gribby, Bromley brings a wealth of experience with him and will work closely with Double Two’s Head of Sales, Robert Wells.

Futura | November/December 2014

The company, which sells through independents and department stores, revealed that total turnover grew 23.8 per cent for the first nine months of the year. Wholesale revenue has increased 43 per cent on last year, which includes an excellent 60 per cent growth in Ireland.

THE MARKETPL ACE FOR LEADING BRANDS IN T E R N AT ION A L FA SHIO N T R A DE SHO W | 19 – 2 1 J A N 2 0 15 www.panorama-berlin.com

news MASCARA SCOOPS TOP PRIZE Ladieswear brand Mascara saw off stiff competition to win Best Occasionwear Collection for the second consecutive year at the recent Bridal Buyer Awards. From luxurious evening gowns to versatile cocktail dresses, Mascara offers a combination of high quality and affordability for the woman who wants to be confident, glamorous and feminine, regardless of her size or shape.

RIVER ISLAND SUPPORTS MOVEMBER River Island has created a capsule collection in aid of men’s health initiative Movember. The collaboration has seen the retailer produce four shirt designs, with a percentage of the profits from all shirts sold being donated to the charity.

“It’s fantastic to join forces with Movember and support them in raising awareness of men’s health issues. There’s a synergy between the heritage of our brands, which makes for the perfect partnership in raising funds for this great cause,” said River Island CEO Ben Lewis.

River Island Movember capsule

AN EVENING OF IRISH DESIGN AT THE KILKENNY SHOP

BIG AND TALL MEN BOOST SALES New evidence that men are getting bigger and taller has been revealed by the latest high street clothing sales figures.

Guests turned out in style to celebrate Irish design at the Kilkenny Shop Nassau St recently, as part of the annual Kilkenny Irish Craft & Design Week, an even that was supported by AXA.

Sonya Lennon. Also in attendance at the event were Bairbre Power, campaign ambassador, Peter McDermott, AXA, and Brian McGee, CEO of the Crafts Council of Ireland.

Kilkenny Irish Craft & Design Week runs nationwide across all Kilkenny Shops each year and aims to celebrate Irish design, highlighting the importance of buying Irish.

Kilkenny CEO Marian O’Gorman spoke wholeheartedly about the importance of supporting the wonderful Irish designers and reflected on the exceptional designers she works with, thanking guests for their continued love and support for Irish craft and design.

On the night, guests were treated to a showcase of some of the best of Irish design talent, with many top Irish designers present including Fiona Heaney (Fee G), Aideen Bodkin, Niamh O’Neill, Christina Belle and ambassador for the week,

The Kilkenny Shop is home to some of Ireland’s largest collection of Irish designers, proudly supporting home-grown talent for over 51 years.

Fashion retailer Debenham’s has seen sales of tops and trousers in its ‘big’ and ‘tall’ ranges increase by almost 200 per cent in some lines, with longer jeans and larger t-shirts proving particularly popular. The middle-market brand, Jeff Banks, sold 192 per cent more pairs of jeans from these two ranges, compared to this time last year. T-shirts across all brands in sizes XL and above were up by 117 per cent over the same period. Debenham’s Elena Antoniou said: “It is well-known that, in general, people are taller and stronger than previous generations so with our extended ranges of items in longer lengths, bigger chest and waist sizes we are just keeping pace with those changes.” Statistics have revealed that the typical young European man today is 5 foot 10 inches. This compares with just 5 foot 6 inches a century ago. With the increasing height has come increased weight and the average for a man is now 13.16 stones (83.6kg) with larger measurements all round, from inside leg lengths to chests, waists and collar size.

Futura | November/December 2014

Julianne Galvin and Brian Magee, CEO of the Crafts Council of Ireland

Sonya Lennon and Gregory and Marian O’Gorman at Kilkenny’s annual celebration of the very best of Irish design

Two hundred+ of the best, fast response youth-market & sub-culture collections on the planet.

SUNDAY 1ST - TUESDAY 3RD FEBRUARY 2015

THE WEST HALL (note itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a new hall at Olympia), OLYMPIA EXHIBITION CENTRE, BLYTHE ROAD, LONDON, W14 8UX. Register for your visitor e-ticket at www.londonedge.com info@londonedge.com Trade Only

news THIRD KILKENNY FESTIVAL HERALDED A SUCCESS

CAMEL ACTIVE LAUNCHES A/W MEN’S UNDERWEAR RANGE For A/W 15/16, the Camel Active underwear is all about outstanding quality and innovative design. A key feature is the new CA 28 series. Printed with an on-trend camouflage pattern, the series is innovative and stylish. The cotton garments, with six per cent elastane, are available as pants and briefs.

Hurling fever gave way to fashion fever in the Marble City in October as the third Kilkenny Fashion Week got under way. The inaugural gala fashion show, which opened proceedings, celebrated 164 looks from 15 Kilkenny fashion retailers. Renowned fashion producers Catherine Condell and Sinead Keenan were responsible for styling, while wellknown models, including Karen Fitzpatrick, Sarah Morrissey, Yomiko Chen and local model Derbhilia Coogan - who recently signed to a top Canadian agency - took to the catwalk. In a new departure for Kilkenny Fashion Week, two male models joined their female counterparts. Eleven emerging fashion designers from various secondary schools in the country competed for the coveted Kilkenny Fashion Week Student Scholarship to the Academy next summer. The judges overseeing this difficult decision were Colin Atkinson, head tutor at Grafton Academy,

model Karen Fitzpatrick and bridal designer and retailer Caroline Barcoe. Stylist Marietta Doran presided over Prêt-aPour-Tae, a fashion event for the over 50s at the Ormonde Hotel. This event included a bevy of local models taking to the catwalk for the very first time with commentary on how to wear what suits you. Many of the city’s fashion shops also stayed open throughout the event, while Fashion Pops! saw fashion shows brought to the public as a troupe of models from Prima provided 20-minute fashion shows every 30 minutes. Each show featured different clothes in a great showcase for local retailers. Organised by Kilkenny City Centre Business Association, Kilkenny Fashion Week is a nonprofit initiative. Monies raised were donated to the Carlow Kilkenny Homecare Team.

MILD WEATHER DELAYS SALE OF WINTER CLOTHES The recent mild weather throughout September and October has made it difficult for Irish retailers to shift their winter stock. According to Seán Murphy, the deputy chief executive of Retail Excellence Ireland, has said that customers have been opting for “interim” clothing, rather than committing to winter stock. Sales of clothing, footwear and textiles for the month of August were down by 0.1 per cent, figures from the Central

Futura | November/December 2014

Statistics Office reveal, which compares unfavourably to the four per cent increase that has been reported over the past year. Met Éireann confirmed that temperatures throughout September have been above normal levels, while rainfall was 20 per cent less than usual. Arnotts has reported that a sales increase in sunglasses and ankle boots in September, items usually synonymous with the summer.

Another highlight is the traditional cut of the CA 20 series in black and white, available in a practical double-pack, which consists of comfortably cut pants with an elastic waistband, including the signature C and a casual shirt. The articles are available in sizes S to XXL. The CA 21 function-fit underwear series is an allrounder for every day and sporting activities. The combination of polyamide, elastane and cotton lends the pants and matching tops functionality and elasticity. The two CA 25 and CA 26 series are both made of a natural fibre-elastane mix. The CA 25 series consists of a classic underwear jersey with fine pinstripes and is available as briefs and pants in white and midnight blue. The CA 26 series only offers pants. These are sold in a new attractive metal box as a double-pack in white or black. Lastly, the CA 11 cotton boxer shorts can be ideally combined with the tops from all the underwear series. Made from fine, yarn-dyed cotton, they come in a new dark blue-red colour mix.

news DISGRUNTLED DUBLIN JEWELLER DISSATISFIED WITH ‘EXTORTIONATE RENTS’ IN CITY SHOPPING CENTRE The controversial upward-only rent clause has felt the wrath of a Dublin jeweller who has described the situation as “extortionate”.

WORTMANN GROUP RECORDS SLIGHT GROWTH The Detmold-based Wortmann Group, known for its Tamaris brand among others, was able to increase its sales by 0.2 per cent to €1.013 billion in the year ending 31 May, 2014. The export quota remained stable at 53.2 per cent. Looking to build in its growth, the corporation continues to make significant investments: towards the end of the year, Wortmann will open a new factory store in Detmold and will be investing another €4 million in the expansion of its main administration building. Wortmann subsidiary Caprice, meanwhile, plans to invest around €3 million in a new warehouse, as well as training capacity at its site in Pirmasens.

Thomas Gear, who runs a jewellery store in North Dublin City’s Ilac Centre, claims that businesses are forced to pay “ridiculous amounts” of rent, even though the country has been gripped by the recession over the past number of years. While there appears to be a slight improvement in the retail industry overall, Gear feels this hasn’t yet occurred in the jewellery sector and as such, the businessman is struggling to keep afloat.

The Wortmann Group’s collections are available in over 70 countries and more than 15,000 shoe shops worldwide. As well as its renowned brand Tamaris, the corporation also includes Marco Tozzi, Caprice, Jana and s.Oliver shoes.

The jeweller, who employs 10 people, took his frustrations to the street recently and revealed that he is expected to pay over €120,000 - plus rates, which are between €15,000 to €20,000. The unpopular rent agreement was drawn up when the Celtic Tiger was in full flow and has lead to the closure of many businesses throughout the capital. Some retailers are trapped in contracts of up to 35 years. “This is destroying businesses and doing nothing to help grow the economy,” he argued. “The last rent review was roughly seven years ago, and that’s when a 64.7 per cent increase kicked in.

TRAVEL DEPARTMENT FOR ARNOTTS

“That was a preposterous hike,” he said. “Before that, there were five yearly reviews and the bill went up in line with inflation, maybe 10 per cent.”

The Travel Department, who operate escorted and specialist holidays, recently partnered with Arnotts Department Store by opening a travel store at the Henry Street premise. This marked the Travel Department’s first ever retail presence in Ireland. The Travel Department is now hosting regular travel clinics, offering customers an in-depth insight into key destinations. There will be three full-time Travel Department advisors operating from the store on the lower ground floor of the Henry Street building, located beside the wedding and luggage sections.

Gear said he is one of the longest standing tenants in the Centre, having signed his lease in 1986 but is battling very tight profit margins on account of these high rents. The future of his store, along with many others, is in doubt should a change to this rent clause not occur.

TOMMY HILFIGER INTRODUCES ALEXA CHUNG AS GUEST EDITOR English model, presenter and author Alexa Chung will feature her style tips and must-have pieces from the Tommy Hilfiger autumn 2014 collections during her guest editorship, with her features appearing on tommy.com and in Tommy Hilfiger stores. For this unique initiative, Chung has selected her must-have pieces for the season – from outerwear to holiday statements. As Guest Editor, she has complemented her must-have looks with styling tips and exclusive behindthe-scenes imagery from her fashion shoot, photographed at Milk Studios in downtown New York City. The program was launched in October with Chung’s Shake Up Your Wardrobe feature, and she will reveal her new favourite looks and style essentials in Tommy Hilfiger stores and on tommy.com every month until

January 2015. “We are excited to partner with Alexa Chung as guest editor of our Fall 2014 women’s collections,” said Tommy Hilfiger. “Alexa is the true definition of an ‘it’ girl – she’s cool, witty, smart and has a great sense of style. “Alexa will give our customers an insider’s view of her must-have pieces from our seasonal collections, all presented through shoppable content on tommy.com and in select Tommy Hilfiger stores across Europe.” Tommy Hilfiger is one of the world’s leading designer lifestyle brands and is internationally recognised for celebrating the essence of classic American cool style, featuring preppy with a twist designs.

Futura | November/December 2014

showtalk

showtalk PANORAMA BERLIN 19-21 January Berlin, Germany

GALLERY COPENHAGEN 28-30 January, 2015 Copenhagen

One of the most comprehensive offerings of trends and tendencies of the coming season, the January 2015 edition of Panorama Berlin will present a contemporary and relevant selection of women’s and men’s collections, shoes and accessories by market leading brands.

For the upcoming Copenhagen Fashion Week, Gallery - which takes place over three days from 28-30 January, 2015 - will unite the leading 150 showrooms, fairs and brands in the Danish capital. The traditional fair has not changed for decades, unlike its visitors who wish to experience the city life as well. Gallery Studio will be just like a fashion fair invite and fly buyers and press to Copenhagen. But instead of just one venue, the visitors can now easily get to the showrooms where, experience has shown, there is a better chance of doing business. In addition to 150 of the leading brands, Gallery Studio will be hosting shows and events in collaboration with Jeudan Real Estate in Copenhagen’s inner city. Furthermore, Gallery Studio will also be collaborating closely with city stores, restaurants and nightclubs to create the best possible experience for visitors. Brands already confirmed for the forthcoming event include Rick Owens, Moschino, Missoni, See by Chloe, La Martina, Hudson, Blauer, Pierre Balmain, Karl Lagerfeld, Elsa Adams and NN07. The latter is one of several brands that will move their showroom to their flagship store and, in this way, contribute with its energy to the city that makes up the backbone of every good fair and fashion week.

CIFF 29 January – 1 February, 2015 Copenhagen, Denmark The trade fair landscape of Copenhagen Fashion Week has undergone significant changes since last season and the next edition, which will take place over three days from 29 January to 1 February, 2015, will consists of three major trade fairs: CIFF at Bella Center and two newly established trade fairs - CIFF Raven and Revolver. The two trade fairs Gallery at Forum and Vision at Øksnehallen have closed.

Ever since its launch in January 2013, the new fashion trade fair has enhanced the offerings of Berlin Fashion Week with a select portfolio of top international fashion brands with business relevance; and has established itself as one of the three leading trade shows of Berlin Fashion Week. As with the last edition of Panorama, the forthcoming show, which will take place over three days from 19-21 January, will be held in the ExpoCenter City, where the larger space will allow the organisers to cater for the high numbers of exhibitors and visitors in each of the nine halls. “We are really looking forward to the event in January 2015 and are convinced that it will be another step into the right direction – to put Panorama Berlin ahead of the European fashion trade shows,” said Joerg Wichmann, CEO of Panorama Berlin. Brands already confirmed for the January show include Birkenstock, Move by Digel, Petrol Industries, Bugatti, b.Young, Softinos, Gipsy and Mustang. New exhibitors, meanwhile, are equally plentiful and range from Bruun & Stengade, Codello, Ichi, Soaked in Luxury and Part Two to Dolomite, Fly London, Softinos, Gaudi, Maze and Orciani.

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CIFF Raven is a selective and carefully curated men’s collections and life style destination, which will showcase over 100 forward-thinking Scandinavian and international men’s brands across 4,800 sq m of exhibition space. An international brand jury will curate the trade fair by selecting only the most relevant brands, which will create a clear vision and platform for the brands and visitors.

“Our aim for Raven – which reverences Odin’s flying messengers in traditional Norse mythology – is for it to act as an eclectic sampling of Danish culture, as well as a microcosm of a city in which various cultural spheres gather, intersect and redefine each other,” explains Kristian Andersen, CIFF Fashion and Design Director. “At other trade shows brands come together to compete, but at Raven they will come together to create a menswear community, establishing Copenhagen as a leader in the global menswear market,” says Andersen. Revolver, meanwhile, will include both women’s and men’s fashion as well as an inspirational area dedicated to retail. It will take place at two venues: RevolverMeatpacking District at Øksnehallen and Revolver-Fishmarket District at Lokomotivværkstedet. The latter will also house Revolver Retail.

GALLERY DUSSELDORF 30 January – 2 February, 2015 Düsseldorf, Germany The upcoming edition of The Gallery, which runs from 30 January to 2 February 2015, with see a new allocation of exhibition space. The Golden Area, known until now as House 1 of the Botschaft venue on Cecilienallee, will host international agencies such as Alpha, Atos Lombardini, Borelli, Blue De Genes, Cardesse, Danolis, Des Petits Hauts, Duvetica,

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showtalk

and platform for up and coming designers, as well as more recognisable designers. It offers buyers and visitors alike, the chance to view selected and edited collections that offer something fresh and unique over three days,” said Karen Radley, founder and Managing Director of Scoop.

Globetrotter Luggage, Hugenberg, Laidback London, Schuh & Handwerk and Woll & Co. Commenting on this, Project Director of National Fashion Trade Shows, Ulrike Kähler, said: “To us, centralisation is the key theme for the coming season. The integration of the agencies will, in future, benefit both visitors and exhibitors. Retailers can see and order numerous collections in one place in a short space of time.”

LondonEdge 1-3 February, 2015 The West Hall, Olympia, London

The Silver Area in House 2 of the Botschaft, meanwhile, will become a presentation stage for the well-known exhibitors at The Gallery. Labels such as Anett Röstel, Dunque, Moyuru, Nashbag, Rundholz, Black Label, Thanh Minh and Ümit Ünal have already signed up. The White Area in the courtyard of the venue will provide additional space. The new World of Accessories will also be housed here.

Taking place over four days from 1-3 February, the forthcoming edition of LondonEdge will see the popular trade show relocate to Olympia’s shiny new West Hall for the first time. This recently renovated, light-filled space is an ideal space to host the 31st edition of the show, before it heads back to The Business Design Centre in Islington in September, 2015.

Philipp Kronen, Managing Partner of the Igedo Company, said: “Concentrated ordering and a versatile programme of side events are an attractive symbiosis for trade fair visitors to experience here. We are delighted to further enhance this presence with international brands.”

SCOOP 1-3 February, 2015 London, UK Launched in February 2011, by fashion industry expert Karen Radley, Scoop has fast become a key fashion destination for showcasing emerging and established directional designers.

One of the longest serving fashion trade shows on the circuit, LondonEdge remains dedicated to its core market of creative and lifestyle-orientated fashion collections and continues to be an order-writing show that brings a unique collection of exciting, edgy and ready-to-wear fashion to buyers from all corners of the globe. As ever, the forthcoming February edition of LondonEdge will push the boundaries for established sub-culture fashion whilst forging youth-market trends; and is the place to be if you’re looking to source new, alternative and quirky products.

GDS 4-6 February, 2015 Düsseldorf, Germany

The forthcoming edition of the show, which will take place in central London from 1-3 February, will feature some of the best in contemporary women’s wear ranges. Confirmed exhibitors include bluechip brands such as Kenzo, Vivienne Westwood and Christian Lacroix. Collections will also be shown by the likes of Pyrus, Goat, Angelo di Spirito Rosa, Agnelle, Quinton Chadwick, Transit Par Such and Neue, as well as Johnstons of Elgin, Neue, Twist & Tango, Parka London and J Shoes.

Positioned as the “global destination” for shoes and accessories, GDS provides the platform for both established and up-and-coming manufacturers to stage their brands and products and is acknowledged as the place for the industry to gain a crucial overview.

“Scoop International is more than a fashion trade show; it’s a meeting place for the industry, a trend-watching opportunity

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showtalk Expectations are high, then, for the next edition of the bi-annual show, which will take place over three days from 4-6 February, with the event organisers hoping to build on the success of the previous show, which boasted 1,259 exhibitors from over 42 countries.

Here, the trends of tomorrow are going to be shown and inspirations for expanding assortments are going to be offered. Another new project, “Richtig Wichtig” (“Truly Important”) by Eddi Mackowiak, promises to provide a further highlight. After creating the Design Attack concept for GDS for ten years, Mackowiak has now given birth to a new and no less surprising idea for an unforgettable event featuring numerous exciting design and lifestyle themes. A colourful combination of fashion and entertainment awaits trade visitors, as well as – for the first time – end customers, directly at the north entrance next to hall 7.0.

Scheduled early in the trade show calendar in order to facilitate the placement of orders, GDS will feature a host trend-setters amongst its diverse mix. Exhibitors will be laid out in three separate areas – Highstreet, Pop Up and Studio. Each area will feature a diverse range of new exhibition and presentation possibilities, enabling more than 900 exhibitors to showcase their goods in the most appropriate surroundings for their respective brands.

The STUDIO show is already a favourite fixed event during GDS, while the fashion show in hall 9 draws attention to premium collections. In addition, further fashion shows are being planned by exhibitors. GDS will also offer several special features for fashion bloggers.

Improvement is planned in this area for February, particularly with regard to atmosphere, with the intention of more clearly highlighting the character of the individual worlds, and providing the appropriate ambiance for the more than 900 brands featured there. Hall 5 and the HIGHSTREET area will receive special attention – the lounge will be enlarged, and the Highlight Route will be connected. The route itself will be presented more conspicuously, rather than leading through the hall in a straight line, creating a stronger arc of suspense for visitors, while offering more inspiration and information. Accessories, meanwhile, will be integrated into the concept area to create a powerful entity with the shoes. Highlights of the forthcoming show promise to include the presentation of collections from 20 exciting and innovative Design Trendsetters, who have been selected by an international first-class jury in the run-up to GDS; the fashion show in hall 9, which draws attention to premium collections; and a series of shows which will be staged by exhibitors at GDS. As a unique highlight at GDS, 20 exciting and innovative Design Trendsetters are going to be presented. In connection with the premium world STUDIO, aspiring designers, who have been selected by an international first-class jury in the run-up to the GDS, will be presenting their exclusive collections.

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| November/December 2014 ISPO information center UK & Ireland /Futura phone +44 1923 233683 / fox@ispo.com

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ISPO 5-8 February, 2015 Munich, Germany

Momad Metropolis 8-10 February 2015 Madrid, Spain For the third time, the two events organised by IFEMA Fashion will take place on the same dates and at the same place.

A four-day event that will be held from 5-8 February 2015 at the Messe Munchen in Munich, ISPO showcases a diverse range of products from the Sporting Goods, Toys & Games industry. The annual show, which attracts approximately 80,000 visitors, is rightly regarded as one of the extensive events in the Sports, Business, Health, Fitness, Outdoor, Ski and Performance Sports arenas. Far more than a trade show, however, ISPO is a brand that represents the ultimate platform for sports business to connect, and unites all aspects of sports business while revealing trends that provide inspiration for forward-thinking. From 6-11 February, Feria de Madrid will host the 61st edition of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid, with parades by the most important Spanish artists of the moment, while from 8 to 10 February, the fourth edition of Momad Metropolis, the great multi Fashion Fair where over 900 textile, footwear and accessories companies come together, will take place. Between them, both events make the largest platform dedicated to fashion and new trends in the Iberian Peninsula.

Growing year on year, 2014 saw 2,565 exhibitors from 51 countries at ISPO MUNICH and 2015 is set to increase yet again. Over 60,000 visitors attended in 2013 from more than 100 countries, with a steadily growing number of UK professionals among them. Everything from Performance Sports to Sport Style, Action Sports, Sourcing and other traditional sports markets are set to be under the spotlight when the show opens its doors. Exhibitors confirmed for the February event include Berghaus, Dragonfly Venture, Lowe Alpine, Regatta, Trespass, Craghoppers and Montane. Further details online at munich.ispo.com

PURE LONDON 8–10 February, 2015 London Olympia Pure London, the premium event for progressive buyers, has secured a vote of confidence from brands ahead of the February 2015 show – which will be held from 8-10 February, 2015 at London Olympia - as record rebook figures have been met with a record number of new exhibitor signings.

The synchronising of the last two editions generated important synergies among domestic and foreign buyers and press at both events. Together they attracted over 70,000 visitors in each edition and transformed Madrid into a major international fashion capital for a few days.

The announcement follows Pure London’s successful SS15 edition, which took place in August and welcomed 800 brands across fashion, footwear and accessories to London Olympia. In the interim, the show has experienced its fastest and most successful rebook, with over 375 brands already confirmed for next year’s show, up 54% from last season.

However, these two events will not coincide with the Intergift, Bisutex and MadridJoya exhibitions again until September 2015.

Birkenstock, Jeffery Campbell, Fly London, Fiorelli, Konplott UK, Vanessa G, Pia Rossini, Humanoid, Sol Sana, I.ODENA, Numph, Glamorous, Ziztar, SMF Jeans, Sugarhill Boutique, Brise, Lei Lou,l, Fever, Charli and Almost Famous are just some of the brands who have already confirmed their attendance at the forthcoming February show.

MODA 15-17 February, 2015 NEC Birmingham, UK

A whole host of new exhibitors will also be showing at London Olympia in February, with 75 key new brands already confirmed – a record number for this stage in the season. Included amongst the line-up are Lola Rose, Noa Noa, Skunfunk, Saint Noir, Illustrated People, Madison Knight and Amor Collections.

The 27th edition of Moda UK is scheduled to take place at the NEC Birmingham between 15–17 February 2015. The perennially popular show remains at the heart of the UK market with its central location at the biggest and busiest exhibition venue in the country. As the first choice for buyers sourcing some of the finest new collections each season, there are more than 1,450 brands to be discovered across the show. As the key launch pad for new collections and international brands in the UK, it provides an unrivalled opportunity for buyers to find new and exciting product. With five shows specialising in womenswear, menswear, footwear, lingerie & swimwear and accessories, the February edition of Moda should provide something for everyone. Popular womenswear exhibitors include Pardiso

Futura | November/December 2014

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showtalk

MODA LINGERIE & SWIMWEAR 15-17 February, 2015 NEC Birmingham, UK

Couture, Faber, Alice & Barnabe by Enjoy Paris and Ireland’s Eye Knitwear, while confirmed menswear brands include Brühl, Gabicci, Fynch-Hatton and Casamoda.

The next edition of Moda Lingerie & Swimwear, which will take place from 15-17 February, has already confirmed a strong roster of the intimate apparel industry’s biggest names. With international household name, Triumph recently announcing their return to the event and the trade show circuit, the show, which currently boasts the return of regulars such as Wacoal Europe, Panache, Moontide, Simone Pérèle, Charnos and Maison Lejaby, will offer visitors this season an increasing variety of product and brands.

A host of brands will also be found in the Lingerie & Swimwear segment, including Charnos, Vanilla Night and Day, Lise Charmel, DKNY and Vanity Fair. Brands signed up for footwear, meanwhile, include Healthy Back Bag, Alpe, Base London, Primigi, Rocket Dog, while those showing accessories range from Ashwood and Malissa J to Max and Ellie, Gabys and Capiz. Product areas at the February edition will allow buyers to navigate through the different shows to various platforms, such as Select, which will present a contemporary mix of men’s urban clothing and footwear; and Mini Moda, which will showcase a selection of children’s footwear.

Meanwhile, Moda regulars VFB Intimates will return to the February show, where they will be presenting their portfolio of brands, including Bestform, affordable intimates for the uncomplicated woman, Lou Paris, feminine and fashion forward designs and Vanity Fair; practical lingerie with added luxury. Continuing to diversify the product offer across the show, European brands exhibiting this season include Avet, Spanish ladies underwear label combining quality and experience into its brand and Ghiro, Italian night and loungewear brand, infusing a balance of tradition and innovation into every collection. Penny Robinson, event director for Moda Lingerie & Swimwear praised the strong starting line-up of brands. “As the sector’s national show we are delighted to be able to offer even more variety this coming season, Triumph coming on board has been in response to a great demand from our visitors and we are listening and acting on their feedback all the time. I am looking forward to the season ahead and welcoming more great brands to the line-up.”

Following the resounding success of its inaugural launch in February 2014, Moda Noir - which showcases the best of evening and occasionwear in one central location - returns for the three-day show. Moda will also feature a stand-out area for Moda White, a dedicated space recognising the latest in contemporary fashion. Also making a return in February will be Moda’s impressive e-commerce offering, which will be witnessed through ever-popular and informative seminars by industry leaders, with a view toward extending the repertoire with the addition of industry services, alongside a growing seminar programme, enhancing the over-all visitor experience.

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Futura | November/December 2014

showtalk

SHOW REVIEWS From last season

GDS

the exhibition centre for the first time and into the city for numerous events, bargains and parties.

From the outset, this year’s GDS hit the perfect note with US star Betto Ditto entertaining guests with her dulcet tones. But the famous songbird wasn’t the only celebrity in attendance. Eveline Hall, Bonnie Strange, Marcel Ostertag and Leo Bartsch caused a flurry of flashes from the photographers throughout the three-day event.

The next edition of GDS and tag it! by gds will be held from 4 – 6 February 2015.

PANORAMA BERLIN

A total of over 900 footwear brands were on show, while the addition of tag it! by gds, a new concept that premiered at this edition, saw a further 370 new names being introduced to visitors who attended from over 100 countries.

The move from Schönefeld to the new inner-city location the ExpoCenter City proved a great success for Panorama’s show organisers. The new location was praised by all exhibitors as well as visitors, whose numbers increased about 12%.

The early dates proved to be a sound decision. Werner Matthias Dornscheidt, President and CEO of Messe Düsseldorf, saw the positive feedback from both exhibitors and visitors as an acknowledgement of this.

In addition to a favourable reaction towards the show’s new location, the brand portfolio and special areas were similarly well-received, as were the new format for the

“We were aware that the early dates would go hand in hand with special challenges, which is why we expected visitor attendance to drop slightly,” Dornscheidt explained.

Panorama Berlin Lectures, which were offered in simultaneous translation in English. Reflecting on a wholly positive show experience, Joerg Wichmann, CEO of Panorama Berlin, said: “To be honest we were surprised by the request for exhibition space for the Fall/Winter 2015/2015 season. We already expanded from 21.000 square-meters to 33.500 square-meters in our new location but unfortunately it is not enough to please all potential exhibitors, so that we will again expand in summer 2015 to meet the demand.

“But we are confident that from February, the response will be even better because in our visitor survey satisfaction levels were as high as 91%. A great result that reflects the good atmosphere at GDS.” It seems as if visitors’ high satisfaction levels are to be attributed to this new positioning of GDS: 73 per cent – most of them purchasing decisionmakers – said they had visited the trade show specifically as an information platform to gain an overview of the market. Just under half the visitors polled travelled to Düsseldorf with the intention of placing orders at the show.

“But it is not about quantity but quality in the first place and we are happy to welcome quite a number of iconic brands for the January 2015 edition of Panorama Berlin. For us, the positive reception we receive is a confirmation that the Panorama Berlin concept works and meets the Zeitgeist.

Kirstin Deutelmoser, Director of GDS and tag it! by gds, revealed that, “GDS is set to become the trigger for the new season and will, first and foremost, whet people’s appetite for new products. Now it is key for exhibitors to present themselves perfectly because one thing has become clear after this event: due to the early dates of GDS, many retailers will already decide at the trade show which suppliers they want to take into consideration for future orders and which they don’t. I was delighted to see orders already being placed at GDS.”

“We are really looking forward to the event in January 2015 and are convinced that it will be another step into the right direction – to put Panorama Berlin ahead of the European fashion trade shows.”

MOMAD METROPOLIS Madrid’s Momad Metropolis saw a 13 per cent increase in visitors, confirming that recovery in the market is well under way. Held between 12-14 September at Feria de Madrid, Momad Metropolis embraced the growing market tendency of bringing together clothing, footwear and accessories at a single outlet. This approach enabled members of the industry to find everything they are looking for in a single trip, under the same roof.

The focal themes for S/S15 were clear to see. Sandals with profiled footbeds, at times in a cork look, at others leather-covered, dominated. Other key pieces included uppers consisting of exquisite leather with various effects in the material. Somewhat more exotic were the re-interpretations of classic espandrilles, presented with extravagant new uppers and shapes at GDS. A wide choice of soles were on offer, ranging from flat, five millimetres soles to eyecatching wedges, platforms and fancy profiles soles. Just as striking was the wide variety of T-strap styles, while various brands showcased a multitude of Mary Janes, some with flat sandals, others with elegant, high-heeled pumps.

Momad Metropolis is the result of combining SIMM and Modacalzado+Iberpiel, the two prolific trade events devoted to clothing, footwear and accessories, which had been successfully staged independent of each other in the Spanish capital for several decades. Furthermore, the dates and venues for Momad Metropolis coincided with those for trade fairs Intergift, Bisutex and MadridJoya, as well as the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week. Together, they transformed the Feria de Madrid into the largest and most comprehensive showcase for fashion and trends in Southern Europe.

While browsing the latest trends across all three themed worlds, it also became clear that the new hall segmentation gave visitors the bearings they needed. The team in charge of organising the trade show was pleased with the successful start of GDS but still sees noticeable development potential for tag it! by gds. Commenting on this, Kirstin Deutelmoser explained: “The basic idea is also on the right tracks here but regarding implementation, we will analyse and re-adjust the format together with the industry after the event. The first measure already decided upon is that tag it! by gds next time will also run for three days from Wednesday to Friday.”

It is estimated that some 111,782 visitors attended these fairs from some 70 different countries. Out of the total number of trade visitors, 10 per cent travelled to Madrid from abroad. France, Portugal, Italy, the Czech Republic, Mexico and Russia sent the largest numbers of buyers. Furthermore, the trade show provided the setting for various exhibitions, including España en la Piel (Spain in Leather), which highlighted the excellent work carried out by Spanish craftsmen within the realm of leather-work. The exhibition included some 20 unique and original items loaned by the Leather Technology Centre Foundation of Andalusia (MOVEX) and the Elda Footwear Museum.

Alongside the numerous PR activities organised by exhibitors, GDS also saw the premiere of the Fashionblogger-Café shoedition. Over 100 fashion bloggers were on hand to discover the trade show, its exhibitors and al the latest footwear trends. In addition, GDS presented a guest blogger for the first time: Maja Wyh took photographs of her very personal fashion highlights at GDS for her blog.

Over all, this third edition of Momad Metropolis featured a total of 900 clothing, footwear, children’s fashion, swimwear fashion, youth urban fashion, handbag and accessory firms, as well as high-end brands.

In a daring move, organisers brought its visitors and exhibitors away from

Futura | November/December 2014

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interview

TALKING SHOP The fashion industry is continuously evolving and to stay ahead of the competition, it is paramount that businesses develop, adapt and take well-thought-out risks. Arnotts, which publicly battled choppy waters throughout the noughties, has done all of this recently and is now once again a leading light in the country’s retail landscape. Ray Hernan, their new Chief Executive Officer, spoke to Menswear in Ireland about the exciting changes taking place in the capital’s much-loved department store For over 160 years, when Irish people thought of iconic department stores in Ireland, there was one in particular that stood head and shoulders above all others: Arnotts. Located on Dublin’s thriving Henry Street, the business dated back to 1843, making it the oldest of its kind in the country, and with 300,000 square feet of retail space, it was also the largest. However, the future of the celebrated retailer was thrown into jeopardy when the store’s overly ambitious plans for expansion, doubled with the economic crash, backfired spectacularly. In 2006, owners Nesbitt Acquisitions announced plans to redevelop their properties located between O’Connell Street and Liffey Street. This new development was to be called the Northern Quarter and the undertaking was expected to be one of the largest rejuvenation projects in this area of the city centre. The estimated cost was €750,000,000, but following planning difficulties and the aforementioned financial crisis, the project never went ahead. As a result, Arnotts incurred colossal debts, leading to its takeover by Ulster Bank and Anglo Irish Bank some four years ago. It received a lifeline when Apollo, a New-York based investment firm, and Brown Thomas owner Galen Weston along with developer Noel Smyth, each purchased a 50 per cent stake. These changes in ownership heralded the arrival of Ray Hernan, who was previously at Brown Thomas, and last year, he took on the role of Chief Executive Officer. The Galwegian had a mountain to climb in terms of getting the store back on track, and even with a limited budget, it was a challenge he was more than capable of taking on. “For a period, Arnotts had become a property company with a retail arm but now our vision is to return to the good old days and to put the focus back on the retail,” says Hernan, clearly aware that the previous owners over-reached themselves with the Northern Quarter project.

“Our strategy included extensive customer research, discovering what our customers and non-customers felt about the store and then addressing and implementing this feedback. “We were told that there was a consensus that Arnotts hadn’t moved with the times and while it had a strong reputation for furniture and homewear, our fashion departments weren’t proving popular, particularly with the younger people. “Overall, the store’s product offering wasn’t connecting with Irish shoppers. What’s more, the retail environment itself also received negative feedback. Words like ‘confusing’, ‘functional and ‘boring’ cropped up time and time again.” More positively, the research also revealed that the store’s heritage and tradition inspired feelings of respect, trust and warmth amongst retailers and so, Hernan and his team set about developing these traits further, as well as modernising the store

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Futura | November/December 2014

interview fact, 60 per cent of the 82 brands currently on offer are recent additions to Arnotts.

Ray Hernan, Chief Executive Officer

without alienating their loyal – and older – shoppers. “Arnotts had a ‘classic focus’, which meant that our main customer base were those in the older bracket,” Hernan explains. “In order to survive, our aim was to broaden this base, but not at the expense of these older customers. We wanted to push the boundaries – without being too edgy - so we started to introduce younger style brands that would resonate with new customers. In retail, it is of the utmost importance to implement change and to continuously reinvent.” In the ladieswear section, well-known names such as Jigsaw and Phase Eight were brought in, while other labels were moved to Boyers, a subsidiary of Arnotts and a hugely popular department store that caters largely for older customers. In

Hernan also expanded on other areas as way of attracting new customers to the store, such as the footwear and accessories departments. The introduction of the Shoe Garden, for example - the largest footwear space in the country, which lays claims to over 50,000 shoes - has proven to be an extremely advantageous move in terms of improving overall footfall. With regard to accessories and jewellery, meanwhile, Hernan identified trophy brands such as Coach and Alex & Annie, whose huge popularity then lead to a snowball effect for this department; securing such big names as these meant that other leading brands – that the store was anxious to take on - developed an interest in being a part of the Arnotts experience. “A retailer will find limited success if it introduces just one new brand. However, multiple brands will entice customers, leading to credibility,” Hernan advises. This approach was implemented across the menswear department as well with the arrival of a host other trophy brands, including Gant, Lyle & Scott, Boss Orange, Boss Green and Brooks Brothers - clothing ranges that excited its male customers. Once laid out over two levels, the team also identified the importance of making a shopping trip for men as easy and straightforward as possible, so they consolidated the men’s offering into one, accessible floor. On top of newly-introduced areas including a toy store, a travel department and an

“IN RETAIL, IT IS OF THE UTMOST IMPORTANCE TO IMPLEMENT CHANGE AND TO CONTINUOUSLY REINVENT”

Futura |November/December 2014

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Apple shop-in-shop that help distinguish Arnotts from its competitors, the Henry Street retailer continued to put emphasis on one of its unique selling points: its customer service. In an age where online shopping reigns supreme amongst young consumers (as such, Arnotts has invested heavily in its online presence, including the recent launch of a loyalty card app, the Wonder Card), Hernan still argues that the best shopping experience is the one that takes place on a one-to-one basis. “Our strengths were in excellent customer service and the expertise that we provided. For example, even though 40 per cent of our beauty products can be found in pharmacies, customers still preferred to come to us because of our superb product knowledge,” Hernan asserts.

“FOR A PERIOD, ARNOTTS HAD BECOME A PROPERTY COMPANY WITH A RETAIL ARM BUT NOW OUR VISION IS TO RETURN TO THE GOOD OLD DAYS AND TO PUT THE FOCUS BACK ON THE RETAIL” And with an upturn in customer spending across the Irish retail sector, Hernan is also putting his energies into creating awareness amongst customers of all the numerous areas that exist throughout the store and not just the one department that they might have only gravitated towards until now. “We are putting an emphasis on cross-selling products: what type of handbag would a customer buying certain beauty products want? Could we convince customers who come to Arnotts purchasing furniture to expand and possibly buy our clothes? Are there promotions we could offer across these areas?” says Hernan. And while certain media outlets have gone to great lengths to suggest that there is conflict between Apollo and the Weston Group, according to Hernan, they both share and support his vision.

interview

“They have huge confidence in Arnotts and are working well together - and with us - to modernise and develop the store. That they both want the 100 per cent share is indicative of how much faith they have in us.” One thing that won’t change is Arnotts’ commitment to local designers with Orla Kiely, Róisín Leenan and Liz Quinn just some of the home-grown talent on offer.

Brent Pope

Toy Town, Arnotts

“Launching your brand is a tough game and so we try to give as many opportunities as possible to up-and-coming designers to showcase their work,” says Hernan, who cites Lennon Courtney as a good example of how the store worked handin-hand with emerging designers. “Sonya [Lennon] and Brendan [Courtney] had huge passion about their label, and thanks to their show on RTE, they had developed lots of awareness. We launched their range exclusively here and advised them on various elements such as fabrics and manufacturing. We are keen and happy to support the next generation.”

HEART of FASHION

When it comes to advice for emerging entrepreneurs hoping to break into the retail industry, Hernan emphasises the importance of “doing your research and finding out who exactly your target market is.” Allied to that, he stresses, “you need to ensure you have the highest standard of customer service.”

MODA 15-17 February 2015 NEC Birmingham Register online at moda-uk.co.uk

Woman, Lingerie & Swimwear Accessories, Gent, Footwear

Something that has been guaranteed in Arnotts Department Store since it first opened its doors way back in the mid-19th century. F19

Futura | November/December 2014

vox pop

Northern Quarter Menswear in Ireland heads north to speak to a selection of independent menswear retailers to Northern Ireland to get their views and verdicts on everything from Social Media and trade shows to their best performing brands.

BRONAGH GRIFFIN OWNER OF NINETEENTHIRTY

MARK MCCLOSKEY OWNER OF EVOLVE

LISBURN RD, BELFAST

U4, LETTERKENNY RETAIL PARK, LETTERKENNY, CO. DONEGAL

What brands are proving successful for you? We design and create our own menswear shirt and accessories brand called Nineteenthirty. Our shop sells our unique brand as well as a few lines from like-minded labels (individual designers.) It also doubles as a working atelier, where we design our products so our customers can view and purchase our readyto-wear collections, discuss new or future collections or purchase a uniquely designed bespoke shirt.

What brands are proving successful for you?

We design a lot of our fabrics and use manufactures across Europe. We attend Première Vision to develop our fabric and keep abreast of trends.

What tradeshows do you attend? Premier Vision, Pure, and Pitti Uomo when needed.

Is Fashion City in Dublin an important buying facility to you? If so, how often do you visit? I’ve not yet visited but I may as I am always keen to find new accessories brands.

Are your spends for S/S 2015 up or down? Spends are up.

Are there any new brands that you have invested in or are interested in? No, we will continue designing our own product.

Do you use Social Media for your business? Yes, absolutely - Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest, Instagram and Wordpress.

Futura | November/December 2014

OWNER OF YOKE CLOTHING (MENSWEAR & WOMENSWEAR) 5, WELLINGTON BUILDINGS, WELLINGTON STREET, BELFAST, BT1 6HT

Fred Perry, Farah Vintage and G-Star are selling extremely well for us.

What brands are proving successful for Where do you do most of your buying? For the most part, we would buy in both Dublin and London.

What tradeshows do you attend? Where do you do most of your buying?

ALISTER BEVERLEY

This year, we attended Pitti-Uomo in Florence. We are also going to attend Jacket Required in London and Moda in Birmingham.

Is Fashion City in Dublin an important buying facility to you? If so, how often do you visit? Yes, we feel Fashion City is a terrific facility for us. Many of our suppliers are based there full-time or during busier buying periods. Several other suppliers would rent space out and be there for a period of time, which makes it very convenient to see everyone in the one area. How often really depends on the dates in which suppliers are showing but it could be as much as ten times a year.

Are your spends for S/S 2015 up or down? SS15 spend remains similar to our SS14 spend.

Are there any new brands that you have invested in or are interested in? We recently invested in New Balance, Farah Vintage and Casa Moda. We are looking for one or two new additions for SS15.

Do you use Social Media for your business? Yes, we use Facebook and Twitter to promote our business and products.

you? Two of our most popular brands are Scotch & Soda and Edwin.

Where do you do most of your buying? We do most of our buying in London.

What tradeshows do you attend? When looking for new brands, we would usually attend Bread & Butter and Jacket Required.

Is Fashion City in Dublin an important buying facility to you? If so, how often do you visit? I don’t do any buying there at the moment.

Are your spends for S/S 2015 up or down? Spend is about the same.

Are there any new brands that you have invested in or are interested in? Yes, definitely. Atelier Scotch and Notch to name but a few.

Do you use Social Media for your business? Twitter, Facebook, Pinterest. We also have a website and online store.

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the year that was .... FRANK KELLY OWNER OF ROY ERVINE

MICHAEL ROWAN MANAGER AT S.D. KELLS

MARK BAILLIE OWNER OF BAILLIES

CASTLE ST, LISBURN, CO ANTRIM

31 HIGH STREET, NEWTOWNARDS, CO. DOWN

23-27 HIGH STREET, BANGOR, CO. DOWN

What brands are proving successful for you?

What brands are proving successful for

What brands are proving successful for you? We have lots of success with the wide variety

you?

of brands that we stock, across our range of

We stock almost all the leading menswear

trousers, jumpers and shirt. One that stands

brands,

out is Alan Paine knitwear.

Grahame, Remus Uomo and Meyer.

Where do you do most of your buying?

such

Baumler,

Douglas

Where do you do most of your

Agents would visit our store and present the

We are members of the AIS (Associated

various collections to us.

Independent

and,

known brands such as Douglas & Grahame, Remus, Eterna and Duck & Cover.

Where do you do most of your buying? Store)

We have been having lots of success with well-

such,

are

buying? We buy locally in Northern Ireland.

continuously buying from local suppliers.

What tradeshows do you attend?

What tradeshows do you attend? I used to visit many tradeshows in London in

What tradeshows do you attend?

the past but in recent times, I haven’t managed

We are often attending tradeshows in

to attend.

various locations such as Earl’s Court.

Is Fashion City in Dublin an important buying facility to you? If so, how often do you visit?

I’m very aware of Fashion City, but it’s not the

Yes, very much so. We do lots of business with

right fit for our store.

them.

The main tradeshow for us is Moda in Birmingham.

Is Fashion City in Dublin an important buying facility to you? If so, how often do you visit? Not at the moment. None of our agents are based there.

Are your spends for S/S 2015 up or down? Are your spends for S/S 2015 up or down?

Are your spends for S/S 2015 up or down?

I’m currently working on that season so

We have just actually opened another store

anything could change in terms of numbers,

in Portadown, so as a result of that, spend is

but as it stands, overall spend will probably be

definitely up.

Are there any new brands that you have invested in or are interested in? We are always on the lookout for new brands

I’m really interested in Gant and am meeting

and aim to introduce some additional ones over

with an agent next month to discuss introducing

the next few seasons.

No, I’m afraid not.

invested in or are interested in? Yes, we’re looking at many new brands such as Calamar, which is a great German label.

Do you use Social Media for your business?

it to the store.

Do you use Social Media for your business?

is definitely up.

Are there any new brands that you have

down.

Are there any new brands that you have invested in or are interested in?

We have just opened a second store so spend

Do you use Social Media for your business?

Our focus this year has been on opening the new store so once that is up and running, we

Yes, we use Facebook quite a lot and we also

will investigate other opportunities, such as

have a website.

social media. We have a website, though.

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brandwatch

LABEL: Faber

brand watch

STYLE: This first class, family-run German knitwear specialist is known for its dynamic fusion of excellent fabrics, colour and print. Collections are dominated by fine wool and cashmere blend knits and head-turning luxe cotton tops in sizes up to 24. TARGET MARKET: Ladies who appreciate quality and femininity and who like to work with the trends of the season to create their own distinctive look. USP: Faberâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s trademark is an unmistakable union of luxury and femininity. Fearless animal prints and intarsia knits make regular appearances along with many artistic prints for a stylish edge to any look. FURTHER DETAILS: Paul Harrison, London.

LABEL: Lexington STYLE: A Swedish brand with its finger on the fashion pulse, Lexington is known for creating classic garments with a modern twist. Key pieces include shirts, jersey and fine knits, as well as tailored garments such as blazers in seersucker and soft cashmere sweaters. TARGET MARKET: Men and women seeking fashions that are fresh, fun and modern and that allow for all occasions, USP: High-quality clothing with strong seasonal palettes and made from the finest fabrics, in including cotton, wool, silk and cashmere. FURTHER DETAILS: lexingtoncompany.com

LABEL: Simclan STYLE: Established in 1981, German fashion label Simclan produces two collections per year. A broad range of clothing styles allow for both casual-urban and classicmodern looks. Key characteristics include distinctive cuts, high-quality materials and clever detailing. TARGET MARKET: Women with a mind of their own and a passion for uncomplicated, individual fashion. USP: A fashion label whose a strong identity infuses every collection. FURTHER DETAILS: Garret Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Connor, OC Fashions Ltd.,

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shopcall

GATSBY Menswear A D D R E S S : 13, Woodhaven, Galway FIRST IMPRESSION: Galway City’s Gatsby Menswear opened in 1977, and despite a change in ownership and location, the store has remained true to its heritage by providing its customers with a selection of safe, dependable labels, as well as a service that’s attentive and personal. These attributes are reflected in the store’s clean and uncluttered layout, making a shopping experience here effortless and pleasurable. CUSTOMER PROFILE: Gatsby Menswear has been dressing older men for five decades, a profile that has clearly been drawn to the classic and trustworthy range of labels on offer. STOCK: The store has invested much time and thought into selecting the most cost-friendly and reliable suits, jackets, shirts, knitwear and accessories for its customers with well-known names such as Meyer, Bugatti, Seidensticker, Clipper and Baumler on offer. Gatsby Menswear also boasts a small selection of headwear, including hats from the British companies, Christy’s and Failsworth. D É C O R / D I S P L AY: With wooden floors and bright lighting, Gatsby Menswear has an open and inviting interior, which should appeal to its customers who might otherwise feel overwhelmed by such shopping experiences. It has that traditional, time-honoured structure of putting the emphasis on its clothing rather than concerning itself with a complicated, high-tech lay-out. The premise is complete with tidy railings, glass cases and tall shelves – all of which successfully showcase the wide range of merchandise available. The shop front is elegant and commanding – the combination of red and gold gives a regal impression. S TA F F : Gatsby Menswear is typical of the many independent retailers being left behind in the fast-paced, ever-changing world of fashion, and, as a result, its owner is its sole staff member. Anyone who is savvy enough to take advantage of this one-to-one service will enjoy the most detailed and personal assistance imaginable. O V E R A L L V E R D I C T: Gatsty Menswear is a little gem that offers a fine selection of reliable brands, while its dedicated service takes the hassle out of shopping - something that has clearly appealed to its loyal customers for almost 40 years. F23

Futura | November/December 2014

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• Complete School Uniform Range • Stock available throughout the year • Peronsalised Service for every customer • Embroidery & Printing Service • Corporate and promotional clothing suitable for every event Derek Eakin Ltd Tel: +353 (0)49 555 2286 email: schoolwear@derekeakin.com web: www.derekeakin.com

1984 - 2014

THE IRISH SCHOOLWEAR BRAND. School Knitwear, Shirts, Blouses, Jackets, Softshells, Embroidery, MENS KNITWEAR. Year round full stock service. AGENTS: SAMMY FARRAR 01 671 5199 EAST/SOUTH ALBERT SHERLOCK 087 202 7518 WEST/NW JEFF FARRAR 01 671 5199 N EAST Deer Park Knitwear, Monasterevin, Co Kildare. T:(045) 525584 E: info@deerpark.ie W: www.deerpark.ie