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A photo story book photographed by Sinead
O’Callaghan and Emma Rose for Make Waves.
Plastic pollution in our oceans is a key environmental issue, but the source of it is not just large scale household plastics such as bottles, food packaging and plastic bags (of which the fashion industry is also a contributor) as you might expect. In fact, the fashion industry is directly responsible for the most abundant pollutant that washes up on shorelines. 85% of solid waste pollution found on shorelines worldwide are microscopic plastic fibres, predominately of polyester and acrylic material, which are shed from synthetic fabrics typically found in fashion garments. These fibres find their way through waste water systems and into waterways and oceans when fibres are shed when synthetic fabrics are washed in washing machines. A single fleece garment can shed 1,900 fibres in one wash, which when multiplied over time and on a worldwide scale is a terrifyingly incomprehensible number. The damage this type of pollution causes is untold, its existence is a recent discovery and so further research needs to be conducted to clarify the effects of this type of pollution in the marine environment. “We think this could be as toxic as asbestos” – Mark Browne, leading researcher in the field. It is not just marine life that feel the effects of ocean pollution though, as we humans rely on the ocean for many aspects of life. Toxic chemicals from plastic pollutants in the ocean can reach us through water systems, eating seafood or we can come in contact with them through swimming in the sea.
85% of pollution found on shorelines worldwide is created directly by the fashion industry.
One garment made from synthetic fabric such as polyester or acrylic can shed up to 1,900 microscopic plastic fibres with every wash.
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Microfibre pollution in the ocean has already reached a critical point, with high levels of the pollutant being found on shorelines worldwide. Therefore, in order to best tackle this issue, systems will need to be implemented to both reduce existing and minimise further pollution from synthetic fabrics. In order to reduce further pollution, we must confront our toxic relationship with plastic materials, breaking harmful habits of convenience and a drive towards ever lower prices. Microplastic fibre pollution is just one symptom of an excessively materialistic society and over consumerism. For the fashion industry, this means a shift away from fast fashion and towards slow, sustainable fashion. Buy less and wear more. Move towards natural biodegradable materials and less harmful chemical processes to reduce the threat garments pose when garments become pollutants. Another answer may lie in preventing microfibre pollution from ever reaching the environment in the first place, which could be done in a variety of ways. Filters could be fitted on washing machines or bags to put clothes inside when washed in order to catch the synthetic fibres
before they reach waste water systems. Similarly, sewerage plants could perhaps filter the waste water for synthetic fibres before it enters the waterways. As all of the above ideas are just concepts, they would need investigation into whether they are viable options and this cannot be achieved without funding into further research. Research which it could be argued should be supported by the main perpetrators of microfibre pollution: the fashion and garment industries as they have a responsibility to work towards generating and implementing solutions for this environmental issue. This is something which leading researcher in the field and author of the scientific paper which discovered this type of pollution, Mark Browne has been campaigning for. Polartech, Patagonia and Nike were amongst the retailers contacted to inform them of the issue and ask for support but with no avail. Mark Browne likened their response to that of big tobacco when they were first told about the toxicity of tobacco and alluded to the fact that they were avoiding the issue due to the expense and effort involved in rectifying this environmental issue.
Make
Waves
To find out how you can help us tell the fashion industry to clean up its dirty laundry go to: make-waves.org