The Nanjinger - June, 2021 by SinoConnexion

JUNE 2021

www.thenanjinger.com

Jasmin Flower

lert readers will know that the title of our editorial is always the name of a song reflecting the theme of each issue.

And so it goes that the audio juggernaut which is arguably the most famous piece of music from China hails from our region. With an area about half that of the UK, our neck of the woods includes the variety one would expect and quite a few surprises.

deer once hunted to extinction. See p. 16-17. This part of China may be known as the “land of fish and rice” but it’s the fruit and veg that take centre stage for us, and the magnificent food carvings created therefrom. Nohemí Gutierrez makes her debut; see p. 14-15. Finally, regular contributor, Triona Ryan, does a spot of soul searching in the water towns of Jiangnan. See p. 10-12. Welcome to “Jiangsu” from The Nanjinger.

Adorning our cover, the salt flats of Yancheng, an area also home to a most unusual breed of

Ed.

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Apart, they stood, across the dusty street. The violet dress that framed her fragile form Broke only by the jet black hair that cut Across the piercing darkness of her eyes. In a second, the plum rain fell. Now, where once had been a road between, The thunderous rain now rived a race Never to be crossed. And there she stands, umbrella in hand, My nameless Jiangsu princess, Immortalised in a momentary storm that nowhere falls But in the fleeting fragrance of my mind. Whilst down the Yangtze echoes an old refrain: “Please ask the faithful river’s song To change from flow to ebb, And so to speed her back to me again.” (From my translation of Li Bai’s “On Leaving Nanjing”)

By M ait iu B ralligan ‘2 1

Delighting in a Slow Walk T H R O U G H W A T E R E N L I G H T E

T O W N S O F N M E N T

By Triona Ryan

“Life can only be understood backwards, and must be lived forwards.” [Soren Kierkegaard].

I Googled my old English teacher recently. She died in a road accident 20 years ago. A Dutch driver wandered into the path of the car in which she was riding. In a shimmer, I was back in my 13 year-old-body, trying to make sense of the end of another life on the asphalt. It made me think of roads; of travel. The roads are a dangerous hotpot. Roads are hard to face, hard to stomach, hard to resist. We want to protect ourselves; to eliminate the risk of pain or hurt or despair. Yet recently, I touched the Buddha’s feet. And that, has made all the difference.

Lingshan Temple rests in the undulating hills of Yixing. Here, the Grand Buddha gazes benevolently down at pilgrims from a lofty 88 metres of height, perched upon a lotus flower, making it one of the tallest in the world. The first sight is breathtaking. Downcast eyes and a smile that has heard worse tales and loves you still, the Buddha holds one hand aloft, palm open toward the approaching pilgrim. Weighing in at a whopping 700 metric tonnes of bronze, this feat of art and engineering takes the breath away upon first sight.

Jiangsu Province is home to the former capital of China, Nanjing. Surrounded by the splendour of Purple Mountain, Qixia Mountain and Fang Mountain, and bisected by the meandering Yangtze River, Nanjing has no shortage of beauty spots to entice and delight. However, as the temperature amps up to smelting, and the humidity reaches “hairdryerin-a-Turkish-bath” levels here in the summer, it’s no harm to have a Plan B, C, D up the sleeve. And an “LMNOP”, just in case it’s raining also. With that in mind, last month, I had the pleasure of visiting the Taihu (Lake Tai) area near Wuxi with a bunch of my favourite people; my students. The lake area is as picturesque as any lake could be; water birds flit across the glassy surface, flowerbeds burst in an explosion of colour to one side, bamboo groves guard the inlets to one of the largest freshwater lakes of China on the other, where tiny two-man houseboats nestle. During the day, these vessels fish the lake and supply local restaurants with mouthwatering fish, although the pollution concerns around Taihu mean that eating said fish is an act of risk-taking and blasé laissez-faire abandonment. Nonetheless, the lapis lazuli mirror of the lake beneath the early summer sky reminded me of the joy of the first glimpse of Purple Mountain, in the valley I learned to think of as home. Travel broadens the mind, perhaps, by reminding us of the beauty that shaped us. Taihu is home to a jewel box of water-towns, scenic areas and The Lingshan Da Fo.

Da Fo is magnificently huge. It was Buddha’s birthday on the daywe visited, but a strange silence abided, not silent, yet so, given the sheer quantity of people. Incense and candlewax swathes the steps to Da Fo. We were awestricken. Climbing the steps, fellow pilgrims knelt and bowed to the Enlightened One. We walked slowly. Quietly. The Buddha was born a Prince, between 5,000 and 4,000BCE in India. His opulent early life, cosseted and consented, prepared him naught for the suffering and misery he discovered

outside of his father’s palace. Encountering a sick man, an old man and a dying man, the Buddha, then known as Prince Siddhartha Gautama, renounced his princely trappings in pursuit of happiness.

the visitor to a time past. No cars or scooters are allowed within the parameters. It is possible to stroll. Over bridges and beneath archways, down alleys and across tiny town squares.

What he eventually discovered was that it is only by embracing suffering that we can ever hope to be free. Wishing for that which is out of reach is a recipe for discontent, according to Buddha’s findings.

It is good to walk slowly. One doorway reveals a Bonsai Garden. Another houses a portrait of Samuel Beckett, deep within the belly of a labyrinth of a tiny tearooms network.

Unfortunately, the main ingredient in human ingenuity and innovation is imagination; this energy, desire and passion that fuels the madness of dreams and impossible endeavours. Hope. Optimism. Faith. All of these things we must renounce if we are to be content in this world. Suffering is part and parcel of the package, so tells the Buddha. His life story is a metaphor for this life journey, and the challenges we face upon its ofttimes rocky road. Illness, aging and death. Following the snaking path up the base of Da Fo, before boarding the elevator to touch Da Fo’s feet; emerging out into the midday brightness. Da Fo seemed even taller, even grander. I felt even smaller. I touched the smooth bronze surface of the statue, immersed in deep thought. One kid said “What are touching his toenail for? Touch his foot!” Sharing laughter under Da Fo was a moment of joy, one of those we must grasp and enjoy in its very passing. So says Da Fo. This is the secret of contentment. We climbed down. We broke bread together. We laughed more, lots more. Outside of the temple, water villages are dotted along the Taihu Delta. Huishan Ancient Town is one of the most delightful nooks I’ve found since COVID burst onto the scene like a drunken uncle. Rickety pavements run along the BeijingHangzhou canal which flows through the restored old town at the foot of Huishan Mountain. Teashops with sweet hawthorn and glazed cherry tomato sticks dot the walkway where willows dip to the cool waterway. There is a buzz, but it’s not busy. The arched bridges, whitewashed walls and granite brickwork bedecked with red lanterns, transport

Huishan Ancient Town hides baubles of beauty, inviting time to slow down; inviting the pedestrian by necessity, to take the foot off the accelerator a while, to enjoy the moment. Nearby, Yixing houses the Museum for Clay Teapots originating in the 1400s. Through an arduous process of dominating chunks of rock, Yinxing Shi Fu’s mold the earth to their desire, creating some of the most exquisite, and, it must be said, expensive teapots in the world. In 2010, an Yixing teapot was auctioned for more than US$1.9 million. I urged the kids to be careful. In the museum workshop, we worked with a lump of Yixing clay, which is no longer sanctioned for extraction from the earth. The supply remaining is all there is to be had. Under the watchful eye of the master, we craft our opus magmums. My moldy looking pinch pot takes on a new sheen. Jiangsu holds treasures we know not of. The calendar days flip forwards. “I should be”, or “I would be”, niggle in the now dormant wanderlust part of the brain. Some countries are opening up. I look at my pot, and I look at the pictures of low-key family reunions. I writhe and give thanks simultaneously. I am like the falling cat with a slice of buttered toast taped to its back. But Da Fo’s gaze is still upon me. Carpe that absolute diem, it says. Follow the road. Be where you are, and love it. The contentment in life is to be found in the moment, the passing flashes of happiness. The Buddha says embrace the suffering, but enjoy every moment of gladness to the max. There is no helmet that protects against life. The ability to experience exists only in the here and now. Enjoy Jiangsu.

Jiangsu Food Carvings MORE THAN EDIBLE DECORATION By Nohemí Gutierrez

iangsu cuisine is one of China’s eight main cuisines. It is known for its mild flavour and fresh ingredients. Due to its unique geographical advantage, a wide array of crops can grow in Jiangsu. Although commonly known as the land of fish and rice, fruits and vegetables are also abundant in Jiangsu, and they have been part of Jiangsu’s cultural history for a long time. Jiangsu’s most famous dishes include salty duck, sweet and sour fish and Yangzhou Fried Rice. However, the dishes that are served without the intent of eating may be the most impressive parts of Jiangsu cuisine (苏菜; Sucai), Food in Jiangsu is not only an experience for your taste buds, it is something to be appreciated in more ways than one. Afterall, Jiangsu is home to the UESCO Creative City of Gastronomy; Yangzhou. That’s why Jiangsu food does not just smell and taste delicious, but is served in a way that shows off the vibrant colours of local ingredients. It is also popular for restaurants to arrange the food in dishes in an appealing manner on the plate. Social media is flooded with posts and accounts dedicated to creating art out of food. And food carving is one of the most popular forms of food art today. The ancient practice of carving beautiful imagery out of food has continued in modern times, and because of the abundance of tools and techniques, carvings have grown in detail and complexity, demonstrating the talent and dedication of chefs to this craft. Though the precise origins of food carving are unknown (the practice is carried out throughout different places in Asia), its beginnings in China can be traced back to the Sui and Tang Dynasties. In these eras, it was common to carve eggs and fat to decorate rice which was to be consumed. The practice evolved as time went on, and during the Song Dynasty, carved food became

common at banquets and celebrations. Bamboo shoots, ginger and watermelon were the common foods used for these carvings, which were often modelled after birds, fish, animals and pavilions. In Yangzhou in particular, watermelons were carved into lanterns. Food carvings were also signs of wealth and prosperity. Today, traditional examples that mirror the beautiful scenery and culture of ancient China are highly valued and appreciated. Nowadays, imagination is the source of inspiration and chefs are able to carve any design they desire. While food carving may seem like a highly technical art form, it also requires a high level of knowledge about the fruits and vegetables to be carved. Experienced chefs know what kind of vegetables are best for making what kinds of shapes, or what kind of vegetables will be best suited for the design the chef wants to make. This requires chefs to not only think about the texture of the fruit or vegetable, but also the ways in which the peel or the skin of the vegetable or fruit can be used as part of the carving. Competitions have taken place across our province to celebrate this cultural practice. Competitors serve art pieces rather than dishes. The stunning pieces that are created demonstrate the intricate details of food carving and the dedication that the practice requires. Food carving has shaped Jiangsu culinary culture in more ways than one. Since ancient China, carving has also been the way to demonstrate innovation and creativity through food. It is also, however, a way of encouraging great knowledge about the crops that grow in Jiangsu, in order to use them to their full potential. More than this, food carving is a part of Jiangsu history that continues to grow and evolve with time.

Oh Deer Me!

What on Earth Happened to You?

By Frank Hossack

Have a close look at this beast.

otice anything out of the ordinary? Its antlers are facing backwards.

Part deer, part horse, part cow, part donkey; say hello to the “Milu” (麋鹿), or “Père David's Deer”. Outside of China, it was the French missionary, Armand David, who brought the zoological oddity to the attention of the world in 1866. The ancient Chinese novel, “The Investiture of the Gods”, speaks of a crane walking with “fourunlikenesses” (四不像), while more long-winded versions elsewhere talk of, “The nose of a cow but not a cow, the antlers of a deer but not a deer, the body of a donkey but not a donkey, tail of a horse but not a horse”. Merged into one and embraced by Chinese mythology, the Milu today have their home in the Dafeng Milu National Nature Reserve. The reserve is located on the east China coast in Dafeng County of Yancheng City in Jiangsu. Speaking of its splendour, a group of young students from 20 countries who had just toured the deserts of Uganda and rainforests of Malaysia, were quoted in the book, “Dafeng’s David’s Deer” by Ma Yilian (Xanadu Publishing, 2016), and part of the series, “Symbols of Jiangsu”. Therein, the students were said to say, “It’s so beautiful, with totally pure and untouched natural scenery”. Louisa, leader of the group leader, said, “This reserve should apply for world natural and cultural heritage status”. While the Milu can be found in a score of countries worldwide, the Dafeng Milu National Nature Reserve is their primary home. A count in 2016 put the population at 2,818, fully 40 percent the world total. Extinct in the wild, the Reserve is also the only place virtually untouched by human hand where free-ranging Milu can thrive. Based on remote sensing observation statistics, this herd totals 265 in number. Just as with most other reserves, the Dafeng Milu Nature Reserve also safeguards other

species; nearly 300 types of animals live on these coastal lands. Among them, the White Egret have an especially intimate relationship with the Milu. Very often, one or two of the white sea birds will stand on a Milu’s back with an easy grace. Even while galloping, the egrets are not easily removed from their furry perch. The two animals have co-existed since ancient times. The overall Reserve comprises 807,000 hectares of unspoilt coastal mudflats. But that term is misleading; deep forests, green grasses and colourful flowers are complimented by peaceful streams and deserted beaches. As well as all this flora and fawna, the area is known for its salt; Yancheng in Chinese literally means “Salt City”. Here, humans carved out salt and timber works over 2,100 years ago as the mudflats were forming. Late in the 20th century, however, the decision was fortunately taken to seal the area’s prime natural landscape. It wasn’t a moment too soon. The Milu had been hunted to extinction in the late 19th century. But the Europeans had stepped in just in time, taking specimens back to France and Germany to successfully breed them in captivity. Then it was the British nobleman and politician, Herbrand Russell, 11th Duke of Bedford, who acquired some Milu from the Berlin Zoo. Having accumulated a relatively large herd, his greatgrandson donated many of the Milu to the Chinese government, for the purposes of reintroducing the species to the wild. And so it came to be that in 1986, the rare and endangered Milu made a return from Europe to its homeland, marking the beginnings of a major achievement in large-scale wildlife conservation.

Legal notes from The Nanjinger in association with:

D’Andrea & Partners Legal Counsel

anjing has always been a city where talents were valued because of its flourished culture and education. Known as the Cultural Centre of ancient China, Nanjing had the national highest institution of learning more than 1,600 years ago. In the Ming and Qing Dynasties, half of the number one scholars in the imperial examination came from Nanjing. Nowadays, many a prestigious university is located in Nanjing. The city’s excellent cultural heritage and education have created and attracted a large number of talented people from home and abroad, including more than 10,000 foreign students today. According to Article 41 of the law of the PRC on the administration of entry and exit, foreigners working in China shall obtain work permits and work residence certificates in accordance with the regulations, otherwise no unit or individual may employ them. In China, the introduction of foreign talents in every region should be within this legal framework. Nanjing has simplified the process for foreigners to apply forwork certificates to the extent permitted by law. In April 2017, Nanjing implemented the reform of the approval system for foreigners to work in China, merging the two permits thatwere once required into one Permit for Foreigners to Work in China. The city also started to provide online declaration and some guidance for foreign talents. Since the implementation of this reform, Nanjing has introduced 6,307 foreign talents as of April 2019. With the needs of economic development, Nanjing started to establish a pilot Free Trade Zone (FTZ) in August, 2019. The FTZ focuses on integrated electricity, life and health, artificial intelligence, Internet of Things and modern finance, which are all new growth points for the economy with great opportunity. Moreover, the local government has also sent a strong signal, hoping that a large number of foreign talents and foreign companies can enter the FTZ, so as to facilitate mutual learning and promote development. For foreign talents, they can enjoy more efficient administrative licensing procedures. The service window for foreigners'

work permit in FTZ centralises a series of services, such as work permit, extension, change, cancellation and so on, which is much more efficient than before. If any foreign high-end talents recognised by any city in China who have not left the country and hold a valid residence certificate after terminating their contract with the previous work unit, Nanjing FTZ can directly identify them and apply for a work permit online with only 2 application materials, so as to maximize the convenience in application. For foreign companies, the efficiency of business handling has been improved significantly. In addition, there are certain rewards for FTZ's foreign-funded enterprises, such as relaxing the entry threshold, streamlined approval policy and some financial subsidies. So far, Nanjing FTZ has introduced 66 foreign-funded enterprises, with an actual utilisation of foreign investment of US$790 million. Legal professionals play an important role in this FTZ, with one of the purposes of Nanjing FTZ to promote the internationalisation of legal services. Foreign legal-service institutions or law firms are encouraged to settle in the FTZ and would be provided a certain amount of subsidy. For international legal talents who plan to work in Nanjing FTZ for a long time, the restrictions on their age, education background and work experience will be further liberalised; legal talents may also receive awork permit for 2 years or more and theycan enjoy the security policies of international talents' entry and exit, residence convenience, children's enrollment security and cross-border financial services. To a large extent, the tolerance and openness of cities are reflected in their attitude towards people. As a Chinese saying goes, "If you get people, you will be safe; if you lose people, you will be in danger". Nanjing has always taken a positive attitude towards foreign talents, which is one of the reasons why Nanjing has been ranked seventh most attractive city in the eyes of foreign talents. Less limitation, more chance; this city where old and modern intermingle is always full of vitality.

DISCLAIMER This article is intended solely for informational purposes and does not constitute legal advice. Although the information in this article was obtained from reliable, official sources, no guarantee is made with regard to its accuracy and completeness. For more information please visit dandreapartners.com or WeChat: dandreapartners 18

Great Nanjingers (13) By Frank Hossack

A Life of Public Service for Women; Pauline Woo Tsui

auline Woo Tsui was at her core an antidiscrimination activist who sought to correct the wrongs brought on the female sex in many theaters, from the USA to China.

Born in Nanjing on 2 October, 1920, Woo’s father in fact came from Hawaii, USA, and as a result, his daughter could claim American citizenship. But that would not be until well into her 20s. At a much younger age, Woo was already displaying her calling, insisting on the importance of schooling for girls, at a time when many were denied an education. Woo first attended a private school for girls in Shanghai, the McTyeire School (中西女中) that was founded in 1882. Remaining in Shanghai, she then went on to earn a degree in education at the Anglican St. John's University, Shanghai, one of the country’s oldest and most prestigious universities, thought by many to be the then Harvard of China. With the outbreak of the Second World War and very little to her name, Woo set about fleeing the Japanese occupation and took a full month to make her way to Chongqing. After she remained there for 3 years, teaching music, Woo was able to secure post-war passage on a ship from China to the USA. After settling in New York and earning an MA in music eduaction from Columbia University, Woo met and married T.L. Tsui, a senior diplomatic officer. To support him and their children, she took up a post at the United States Army Map Service (now the Defense Mapping Agency Topographic Centre). This decision was to shape the rest of her life. For it was in this post that Woo first ran into discrimination against Chinese women.

Over the following years, Woo began to notice that whenever the US Army made cutbacks, it was always the womens’ positions that were first to go. Either that or they had their salaries cut more than their male counterparts. Latterly setting up a number of initiatives taught Woo that organising was the key to gaining equality. Then came the 1970s, a time of deep cultural change in the USA. The role of women in American society was being transformed; more women entered the paid workforce and as they did so, gender equality was the last thing on their boss’ minds. Hence, in 1977, together with the diplomat, Julia Chang Bloch, Woo co-founded the Organisation of Chinese American Women (OCAW), with the aims to advance and to advocate for the needs and concerns of Chinese and other Asian-Pacific American women. During her term as the organisation’s Executive Director, Woo also turned her attention back to her homeland, setting up the Scholarship for Girls in Rural China. Then in the 1998 school year, the Scholarship was joined by the Tiger Woods Foundation to support 70 girls with their middle school education for 3 years in the provinces of Gansu, Guangxi, Guizhou and Sichuan. The Maryland State Archives quotes Woo’s epitah as her own words; “The many equalities that women fought for in the last century, are now the opportunity for young women to choose a new direction for the women's movement. I do hope young Chinese-American women will seize upon this opportunity to map out a trajectory where all women and men can live and work happily and equally together”. Woo passed away on 27 November, 2018. 20

4. Muslim Literati of Nanjing (Part I) Wang Daiyu and the Unique Situation of Nanjing’s Muslim Society

y the late Ming dynasty, the highly culturally and linguistically-assimilated Muslim communities of Nanjing presented a new problem. There existed a cavernous gap between existing Arabic/Persianmedium Islamic texts and the Sino-Muslim Chinesespeaking practitioners illiterate in those languages.

the Northwestern or Southwestern Muslim communities, Nanjing Muslims saw a strong interest in obtaining official imperial recognition for the Islamic identity, a strategy that Sino-Muslim scholars, such as Jonathan Lipman, believe may have ultimately helped protect Muslim communities as Qing China grew increasingly hostile and repressive.

In Nanjing, this particular phenomenon manifested into a situation where most Sino-Muslim elites were well-versed in the Chinese classics but had little to no understanding of Islamic texts due to the linguistic entry barrier.

It was into this setting that one of the most influential Nanjing Muslim intellectuals arrived on the scene. Wang Daiyu (王岱舆), born sometime between 1573 and 1619 CE to an Arab or Persian-lineage family who traced its arrival to the early Ming, became the first to publish the debut Islamic classic in the Chinese language in 1642. Scholars such as Sachiko Murata believe that the local Nanjing Muslim community likely had little issue with practicing the ritualistic elements of the faith such as prayer/fasting given that most local writings omitted these aspects, unless it was to defend such practices from a philosophical point of view.

Towards the end of the Ming Dynasty, in the midsixteenth century, a Sino-Muslim intellectual by the name of Hu Dengzhou (胡邓州), based near modern-day Xi’an, established the “Scripture Hall Education” (jingtang jiaoyu; 经堂教育), a system tied to mosques that ultimately taught Islamic knowledge through the Chinese language. In the first such school, the system came to include 14 texts (8 in Arabic and 6 in Persian), using a Sinified transliteration system to make works accessible to native Chinese speakers. This overall mass push towards translating Arabic and Persian texts or classics and making Chinesemedium Islamic teachings became the theme of the late Ming/early Qing Dynasty amongst Sino-Muslim literati in the country. After Hu’s work in establishing this Islamic educational system, a 4th-generation graduate named Ma Junshi brought it back home to his native Nanjing. Thanks to their proximity to the Chinese dynastic capital and culture, Nanjing’s Muslim communities were unique in their rich intellectual life and social circles. Most Nanjing Muslims were largely driven, like their nonMuslim counterparts, towards the imperial examination system, steeped in Confucian learnings and texts, to become recognised in society. And unlike

In this scene of well-educated Sino-Muslims, and compared to other pioneering Sino-Muslim writers/ translators of the time, Wang stood out due to his approach of using the existing Neo-Confucian knowledge of his community to critique its philosophical limitations and argue that Islam was a more completed form. In the introduction for his first book, Wang claimed that his ancestor first arrived in Nanjing some 300 years earlier in the Ming Dynasty and impressed the Hongwu Emperor by fixing the calculations in the his astronomy and calendars. As thanks, the emperor bestowed Wang’s ancestor with a residence near today’s Hongwu Nan Lu as a supervisor of the Imperial Observatory. Wang eventually came to study under Ma’s tutelage. Proficient in Arabic and Persian, Wang claims to have only had sufficient understanding of Chinese to

By Matthew Stedman

Chasing the Black Dragon Orientation by Oolong I take the glass out of the fridge and sip on the dark, icecold liquid. The coldness is a comfort in this fast-tracked summer. And the flavour is transportational. It takes me back to Japan and my first brush with Asia; a school exchange aged 18. Specifically, it takes me to those affordable restaurants where this drink is default. At first, Japan’s ice cold oolong tea (乌龙茶) appealed to me only because it was wet and plentiful. The humid heat of Osaka was a shock to the system. Ice cold anything would have done. The dryness of the tea’s taste was initially a disappointment. Just as doufu and soy sauce were different from the crème caramel which my eyes were expecting (so different it almost made me vomit), oolong tea wasn’t as tasty as the plum juice which its appearance promised. I knew that all the tea variety wasn’t quite indigenous to Japan. There was a Chinese boy on this school exchange, too. He was swigging it from the Suntory bottles (identical to today’s), not just compulsorily in restaurants. For him, this was a cordial for homesickness. For me, coming from a family of non-tea drinkers, this was a gateway to something different. I was starting to like it. It would be several years before I returned to Asia. But the Chinese supermarkets in Cardiff were ready to help. Sure, their grey-imported Japanese bottles were prohibitivelypriced. But they also stocked Sea Dyke Brand (海隄牌)! Even imported, these red boxes of dark oolong tea are laughably cheap. The leaves brew through several top-ups, offering fantastic value. Fascinatingly un-Japanese, the packaging reveals origins in “the Fujian Province” (that “the” article making Fujian seem even more mythical and

inaccessible than ancient Fukien). For a long time, this remained my only exposure to Chinese tea. And that’s a blessing, because green tea doesn’t travel nearly as well. Sea Dyke’s black, crispy oolong leaves aren’t as tightly wrapped as the little balls of “tieguanyin”, or most oolongs sold domestically; they look more like wood ear. These leaves don’t break up in the cup or the teapot. But they do expand dramatically, sometimes pushing upwards on the teapot lid! One British friend I introduced it to described the smell of this drink as “foecal”. But by this time, I wasn’t listening. The drink was helping me through coursework, its leaves blocking plumbing throughout the university (please let me apologise for that ignorance now). Sea Dyke oolong tea was preparing me for my next journey. The oolong I’m drinking today is very much in that style. Hot and cold, it reminds me of all those oolongs elsewhere. It is called “A Branch of Spring” (一枝春乌龙茶). Naturally, it comes from Fujian, specifically Zhangzhou, a tea capital of sorts, because this is the home of TenFu’s Tea (天福), one of China’s tea giants.Apparently, there is a tea museum there. I’m very grateful to have received this as part of a double a gift. The Zhangzhou red tea which I received 1 day earlier is much more complex and interesting than this one. Though more tightly-rolled than Sea Dyke, this oolong doesn’t boast the complex aromas of Dahongpao (大红袍) or rock oolongs (岩茶), nor that of oolongs from across the water. But right now, complexity and intrigue are not the point. Right nowI feelrefreshed and strangelyrooted.This oolong does the oolong job. 24

installed a music corner, stocked, mic’ed and amped up to go whenever the urge to perform is too overwhelming. All told, the latest season of Axis is the best to date. Axis is located at Yadong Commercial Plaza, 12 Xianyin Bei Lu 仙隐北路12号亚东商业广场 Tel: 15895872728

HOSTELRY By Matt Ford

Cocktails, Curries, Cricket and Craft in da 'Hood

Your choice of seating should be the lovely, soft and stylish chairs that line the bar. However, there are also some very comfortable leather Chesterfields that feel every bit the gentlemen’s club. It is a theme carried over from the external window display, which is a take on a bespoke tailor’s display. If cigars are your thing, you are in luck. If you’re not a fan of smoke, you would do well to avoid the later part of Friday and Saturday evenings. Usually you will be given a free shot or two as you sup your way through the evening. However, in my opinion that does not work well here. The cocktails are so good that a quick shot of bourbon (or whatever) can be a rather unwelcome distraction. Inevitably the giveaway spirits are not going to be the finest from the collection. If you’re eating at Le Gavroche, Michel Roux Jr. does not slip you a free McDonald’s cheeseburger to have alongside the lobster mousse. However, perhaps I should desist from inspecting too closely the mouths of gift-horses. Robin bar does not serve food or beer. However, if fine cocktails alone are not enough to attract you, then perhaps a curry next door might? The authentic Jianate Indian Restaurant is owned by Bilal (an Afghan), together with Praveen, the ever-present and affable Indian waiter.

It is unusual not to see members of Nanjing’s Indian community eating there, which is surely a good sign. It’s a great place to watch international cricket (Praveen is an obsessive fan). They don’t serve alcohol, but you are welcome take your own; the My Town bar a few minutes’ walk away (Hubei Lu, just before the junction with Hunan Lu) has a large selection of chilled craft beer that you can take away. Robin Bar and the Indian restaurant may have little in common other than location, but they combine to make a great night out if you fancy the Four Cs. English is not spoken at Robin Bar, but the coctkail menu is in English. English is spoken at Jianate Indian Restaurant. Robin Bar / Jianate Indian Restaurant are located at 2 Zhonghua Minyao Alley, Shiziqiao Pedestrian Street. Tel: 19805147532 / 5223 5776 respectively.

Bringing a touch of post-COVID glamour to the local international community and helping a local charity were the aims of the British Ball, held at The Ritz Carlton, Nanjing. Both were met in abundance; when the green baize tables were put away and everything was tallied up, the 250 guests in attendance had gambled their way toward raising a grand total of precisely ¥420,000 for Hopeful Hearts.

British Ball 15 May, 2021