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7 NanjingNomads 8 Editorial 9 Poem Dynasty 10 WhichistheGreatest? Capitalof6Dynasties (orisit10?) 12 CaputMundi; The BathtubRacingDynasty &OtherStories 16 Fiction TheStringisSevered; EndoftheValdragonDynasty 20 TheGavel TheMany DynastiesofForeignInvestment inChina 22 TheGlobalCrayfish Capitalinourown JiangsuProvince 24 GreatNanjingers(24) WorldwidePerformingPianistwho beganLifeinNanjing;NoëlLee 25 Strainer Foamingatthe Mouth;MessageinaBottle 27 CapitalConstructs~8~ TheNanjingEye 28 NankinishDelights DumplingLovers:Don’tLeave NanjingbeforeYouHaveTriedThis 30 OurSpace 35 MetroMap
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|2022.08
ScantheQRCodetovisitTheNanjingeronWeChat,fromwhere youcandownloadafreePDFofthisissue,findafulllistof distributionpointsforhardcopiesorarrangeasubscriptionto haveTheNanjingerdeliveredtoyourhomeoroffice! ThismagazineispartofafamilyofEnglishpublicationsthat togetherreachalargeproportionoftheforeignpopulationliving inNanjing,alongwithagooddashoflocals,comprising: TheNanjinger CityGuide www.thenanjinger.com Facebook,WeChat,Twitter&Instagram
learned,
fromthescenes. ThenIwrote,mainlyverse,pooratfirst
AndIwritetheselines
By MaitiuBralligan‘22 Myfatherwastheultimateartist. Icouldnotcompete. So,Ihidinthetheatre,baskedinthelights, learnedhowtofaketheright infinitesimalcatch ofbreaththatbreathedlifeintothelie.
ThemomentIdied,andtheaudiencecriedIwept. underherseductive,fantasticalspell, wouldrelatetomeeverythingthathe everyplaythathesaw, ‘tilIbegantowithdraw butIfound,inmywords,strangeworlds thatinrhythmbirthedlifeintolines. Thatfirstmomentsomeoneread mywordsandsaid thattheyheldsomethingbeyond wasthemomentIfound me. Isenthimapoem. Henowwritespoetry. Turnsouthewroteasachild andnowhasrefound hiscalltothepen. HereIsit, backunderhisshadow,asheplaysinmine. inordertounravelanOedipalknot: Whosedynastypassesnowuntowhom? Myfatheristheultimateartist. Hegavemebreathtoformwords. Iamhispoem.
THENANJINGER |2022.08 9
Hecametoseemeplay inaforestglade,dappled,wherehetoofell
EvenChinaDailyisconfused,sayingthatNanjing is,“KnownastheCapitalCityofSixorTen DynastiesinChina'shistory”.
THENANJINGER |VOLUME12ISSUE09|AUGUST 2022 10 WHICHISTHE GREATEST? Capitalof6Dynasties (orisit10?)
It’sabitlikethatwithdynasties.Mostwill remembernotlongafterarrivinginNanjingbeing toldourcityhasbeencapitalof10dynasties. Orisitsix?Seemsnoonecanmakeuptheirmind.
E
verheardthatNanjingiscommonlyknown asoneofthe“threefurnaces”ofChina? Everheardotherssay,“No,Chinahasfive furnaces;notjustNanjing,Wuhanand Chongqing,butalsoXi’anandChangsha”.Still thereareotherswhoclaimNanjingisbutoneof sevenfurnaces.
By FrankHossack
Thereofcourse,wefindthemarvellousandworldfamousForbiddenCity.Yet,whatnotmanypeople outsideofNanjingknow,isthattheImperialPalace version1.0wasactuallybuiltrighthereinNanjing withZhongshanDongLurunningthroughits centre.
In1373and1392,Hongwucommissioned extensiverefurbishmentandexpansionofthe palaceinordertopreserveitsimperial splendor. However,thesteadydeclineofthe palacebeganafterthedeathoftheHongwu emperor.Hisgrandsonascendedthethrone butimmediatelyfellvictimtothe machinationsofhisuncle,ZhuDi,whofelthe wastherightfulheirtothethrone. Uponhis enteringNanjing,theimperialpalacewas torched,andthecharredbodyofwhatwas presumedtheEmperorwasrecovered. AfterZhu’sseizingofthethroneastheEmperor Yongle,hedecidedtomovethecapitalto Beijingin1421,forstrategicpurposesrelatingto
SomegolookingforanswersinNanjing’s“Six DynastiesMuseum”.Waitaminute,that’swhat thesignsaysoutsideinChinese.ItsEnglish accompaniment,however,is“TheOriental MetropolitanMuseum;The3rd-6thCentury”. Gofigure.
In1368,onlyayear later,constructionwascompleted,andZhu becametheself-proclaimedruleroftheMing kingdom,tobeknownasEmperorHongwu.
In1367CE,thefuturefounderandfirstemperor oftheMingDynasty,ZhuYuanzhang,initiated theconstructionofthemagnificentpalaceto coincidewithhisappointmentofNanjingasthe capitalofMingChina.
TheNanjingerthereforeproclaimstheMing Dynastytobetopsamongthesixor10.Not onlydiditprovidetheblueprintforthe ForbiddenCity,italsosawtheconstructionof ourrathersplendidNanjingCityWall,the longestintheworld.Andthat’saprettybig pieceofproof.
Foraverybriefmomentfrom1644to1645,the ImperialPalaceonceagainbecamethehomeof anEmperor,theEmperorHongguang,who proclaimedtheSouthernMingDynastyinafutile attempttoresisttheriseoftheQingDynasty. WhileHongguangspentsomeofthelittletime hehadasaruleronrebuildingthealready decrepidpalace,hisattemptswereinvainas theQingarmyreachedtheinterimcapitalin 1645,bringingwiththemtheManchuarmyof the“EightBanners”. Inthefollowingyears,thepalacewasgradually demolishedbytheManchu,withanymaterial thatcouldbetransportedbeingremovedtobe usedintheconstructionanddecorationof otherbuildings. Duringthesecondhalfofthe 17thcenturytheformergrandpalace,whichhad housedanumberofregents,became uninhabitable;itsmereruinsremaining. Thosepartsofthepalacenotstrippedbare undertheManchuslaterfellvictimtothe TaipingRebels,whousedeverystickand stonetheycouldfindintheruinsforthe constructionoftheirheadquarters;the PresidentialPalace. Ironically,theMing Palacelayoutmodelcantodaybeviewedin theverysamebuildingthatcausedthefinal demiseofoneofNanjing’sandChina’s historicallymostimportantbuildings.
TheMingPalacewasconstructedinthe14th centurybutsadlydidnotsurvivenumerous clasheswithhistory,fallingvictimto destructionandgradualdismantling.
Ratherthandwellonthisdilema,TheNanjinger insteadwonderswhichofthesemanydynasties wouldbethegreatestofthemall?Forthat answer,weneedlookupnorth,tothepresentdaycapitalofBeijing.
THENANJINGER |2022.08 11
thethreatofaMongolianinvasion.While Nanjingstillremainedthereservecapitalofthe country,itslossofstatusresultedinneglectof thecityanditsarchitecture. Aseriesoffiresdestroyedpartsofthepalace duringthe15thcentury,suchasin1449,when thethreemainhallsoftheOuterCourt(the ceremonialseatofgovernment)burneddown. DuetodisinterestintheformerImperialPalace, thepartsofthepalacethathadbeen consumedbythefirewereneverrebuilt.
TheoldMingPalaceofNanjingwasthe blueprintforthelaterconstructionofthe emperor’ssplendidhomeintheNorthernCapital. That,obviously,shouldbeourfocus.
By TrionaRyan
13
Since1967,thehomeof“bathtubbing”hasdrawn enthusiastsfromaroundtheglobeeachJuly. Theseaficionadosmakeoldbathtubssea-worthy, andracethemintotheGeorgiaStraitandbackto thefinishlineinNanaimoBay.
Withthatinmind,alongsidethetruism thatcorrelationdoesnotmeancausation, theintersectionofweirdandactualcapital citiescametopassinthefirstplace becauseofsomethingoneofmyfamily saidwatchingHarryPotterandThe PrisonerofAzkhabanlastnight.As Hogwart’sExpresspuffedthroughadark andstormynight,withsheetsofrain assaultingthetrainwindow,Dublin,withits horizontalrainandsquatskies,andpeatbriquette-4am-jet-lag-wintermornings hijacksmythoughts. “Imissthecoldandrain”,Isaid,beforemy brainfinishedthinkingit. Thechildrenchecked thebackofmyheadforazipper(TheWCof ZippersisKurobeCity,Japan),toseeifmamáhas beenreplacedbyausurperoran alien. Weunderstandthatfinally,it istimetomentallyprepareforan Apollonianre-entryifnecessary. Ofcourse,languagefallsflatwhenit comestotheheart’s paradoxicaltruths.Going awaymakesreturningsweet. Itissometimesnecessaryto missathingtoappreciate itsworth. Theseedoflovemayliein itspolaropposite.The contraryisalsotrue. Thesearebutafewofthe wonderfully oddballworld capitalsof thingsother thancountries andletters.
Atonepoint,theTouristBoardactuallypromotedit astheCapitalofSexy,whichledtosome perplexedlookingtouristswanderingaround underwearfactories,wonderingwhenthered lightswouldappear.
Speakingof“finish”,TheWCofHeavy MetalisHelsinki,Finland.“With54.3 heavymetalbandsper100,000 ofthepopulation,Finlandhas becometheMeccaofHeavy Metal”,accordingto wanderlust.co.uk.Whilstthemath ofthatexplanationmayescape me(theFinishpopulationis approximately5.5millionforthe moremathematicallyminded ofreaders),thatdoesseemlike alotofheadbangers concentratedintoonesmall country,andsuggestsat leastsome correlationbetween excellencein educationsystems andalikingforsick guitarlicks.Finland hasthebest educationsystemintheworld,accordingtothe WorldEconomicForum’sGlobalCompetitiveness Report,soitisinterestingtome,asaneducator,that theyhavegone, “No,HeavyMetal.Wewillbethe heavymetalWC,thankyouverymuch.” Priorities. AllworkandnoplaymakesJackadullboy,afterall.
I’msuretheMiddleKingdomhasmanyother gemsyetunknowntome,save Beijing,WCof RoastDuck, and Nanjing,WCofHumidity. Outsideofourhostcountryborders,though, severalotherCapitalsofQuirkmeritmention. Ifbathtubracingfloatsyourboat,Nanaimo, Canada,istheplaceforyou.
Somespendupwardsof$30,000gettingtheir tubrace-readyandcomefromasfaras Australiatofulfiltheirdreamofcaptaining theirbathtubtoglory,beingfirstacross thefinishline.
THENANJINGER |VOLUME12ISSUE09|AUGUST 2022 14
THENANJINGER |VOLUME12ISSUE09|AUGUST 2022 16 Endofthe Valdragon Dynasty
By FelixCampbell
T hecastlewassleeping,buttheemperorwoke suddenlyinthedark.Thesilkhangingsofhis royal chamberflutteredwiththewarmseaairflowing inthroughthewindow.Leisannewasnowhereto beseen.Hecalledouttoher.
“Stop.Haveyoueverkilledanemperor?I thinknot.Thereisceremony.Youcan’tkill oneinhispyjamas.”Hesaid,nottakinghiseyes offherandslowlybendingtopickuphiscloak. “You?Dressyourself?Doyouevenknow how?”, shemocked. “Ithinknot.Thestringis severed.”Shelurchedforwardtowardshim.He parriedwiththecloakandsimultaneously jumpedback,butnotquiteinenoughtime,his weightslowedhimagainsttheagilityofthe woman.Thebladeslicedthroughthecloaklike butterandgashedhisarm.Theassassinmoved quicklyandmovedtostrikeagainandhetwisted away,butshehithomeagain,stabbinghimdeeplyin theshoulder.Hebellowedinpainandanger,andwith hisbackpressedagainstthesideofthewindow,hekickedher backwardsbeforehalf-jumping,halffallingout. “LIIIIIYAAAAAAA!”,hebellowedashefellfiftyfeetbefore bouncingonjaggedrocksandfallinganothertwohundredfeet intotheseaandunseenrocksbelow. “SoendstheValdragondynasty.Thestringissevered”, saidthewoman,spittingoutofthewindowafterhim.
“LeisanneisnotaValdragon,child,haven’tyou beenlistening? Onlyourbloodappearsonthiswall. WhenIamgone,yourfacewillappearnexttomine, justasmineappearednexttomyfather’swhenI ascendedthethrone.”
“No,dear.Sheisgone”, saidasinisterfemalevoicefrom theshadows.Heleapedupimmediatelytowardsthe dressingtableforthedaggersimultaneouslyrealisingitwas acataclysmicmistake,havingalreadygiftedittohis daughter.Helookedtothewallwherethecrossedswords shouldhavebeen. “Lookingforthese?”, saidthevoiceloomingoutofthedark.
Shesteppedforward,swingingthebladesineitherhand.She waswearingaredrobewithtemple-dragons,andhereyes werestorms,intentwrittenalloverthem. “Guards!”, heyelled.Thewomanchuckledvindictively,acat imposingitspoweronthemousebetweenitsclaws. “Lakshmi?”,hesaid,takingastepawayfromhisassassin. “Summonedtothespire,ofcourse”,shesaid,herfierceeyes intent,circlinghimashemoved,thebladesstillswingingwith menace.Heglancedatthewindow. “Goon,makeiteasier.” “Theprincess?”, heenquiredhoarsely,dreadingtheanswer andtakinganotherstep. “Asleep.Soonnottowake”, shesaid,almostmotionlessly movingtowardshimlikeawolf.Ragepouredintohimbutthe soundofthebladesslicingthroughtheairstoppedhimfrom makingthefatalmistakehewantedto.
Theycontinueddownthecorridorand downseveralsetsofstepspassingseveralmore soulstonedoors.Astheycontinuedwalking,her fatherspokeofthedutiesofanEmperor,ofjustice, ofkindness,andofstrength.Thefirsttwo,hetold her,balancedoneanother,butthethirdwasthe mostimportantbecausetheycouldnotbe maintainedwithoutit.Herbrowfurrowedlikea ploughedfield.
THENANJINGER |VOLUME12ISSUE09|AUGUST 2022 18 and sawhiseyeslingeredonthedragonwith somethingshedidn’trecogniseforawhile.
Heledherdownthecorridor,whichtwistedand turnedgraduallyleadingdownwards,naming eachfaceontheleft,givingdescriptionoftheir actionswheretheyfoughtwhichking,expanded theirholdingsinwhicharea,andthendescribed eachcompaniondragonontheopposingwalland inwhichwaytheyhadhelpedorinsomecases hinderedtheadvanceoftheEmpire.Liyatriedto commititalltomemorybuttherewereover30 faces,andtheywalkedanddiscussedthem withoutrecess.Eventuallytheycametotheend, wherehisownfacewasonthewall.Helookeda littleyoungerandleanerlookingthansheknew him,butitwashimforsure,themosaichad capturedthesparkleofsteelycuriosityinhiseyes. “Butwhataboutmummy?She’snotevenonthe wall!”, Liyasaid,lookingbackandforthforher.
Shelookedattheemptyspaceonthewall oppositehismosaic. “ButwhataboutLadyLakshmi?Isn’tshea companion?”, sheasked.Hechuckled. “Whatasmartyoungladyyouare. Yes,youwillmakeafineEmpress. EmpressAathaliyathesecond.I likeit.” Hesmiledpurewarmthand prideather. “Iascendedthethrone onmyownstrength,therehad beennocompaniondragonfor threegenerations.LadyLakshmi hasenteredtheroyalcourtsince then,andafinecompanionshe hasbeen.Nodoubtoppositeyour facewillbeArkay.Thefirsthoney dragononthesewalls.Anhonourfor us.Andforhim.”
TheGavel THENANJINGER |VOLUME12ISSUE09|AUGUST 2022 Legalnotesfrom TheNanjinger inassociationwith: D’Andrea&Partners LegalCounsel S
Sincethebeginningof2020,toeffectivelyrespondto theCOVIDpandemicandstabilisethefundamentals offoreigntradeandinvestment,Chinahas introducedarangeofpoliciestobailoutenterprises facingdifficultiesandtooffertremendoussupportto marketentitiesofallkinds,includingenterpriseswith foreigninvestment,astheyresumework.China,asa pathfinderforeffectivepandemicpreventionand controlacrosstheworld,hasalsobeenafrontrunner inresumingproductionandrestoringnormality.
Thisarticleisintendedsolelyforinformationalpurposesanddoesnotconstitute legaladvice.Althoughtheinformationinthisarticlewasobtainedfromreliableofficial sources,noguaranteeismadewithregardtoitsaccuracyandcompleteness.
China’sfirstforeigninvestmenttookplacein1980,in theformofsino-foreignequityjointventures,after thepromulgationoftheLawofthePeople'sRepublic ofChinaonSino-ForeignEquityJointVentures(EJV) inJuly,1979.Subsequently,theLawofthePeople's RepublicofChinaonWhollyForeign-Owned Enterprises(WFOE)waspromulgatedin1986andthe LawofthePeople'sRepublicofChinaonSinoForeignCooperativeJointVentures(CJV)in1988 (collectivelythe“ThreeLaws”).Thesehaveplayed importantrolesinforeigninvestmentforalongtime, butin2020,thenewForeignInvestmentLaw (FIL)andtheRegulationsonImplementationofthe ForeignInvestmentLaw,cameintoeffectandthe previousthreelawswererepealed.
DuringtheperiodoftheThreeLaws,theforeigner investorsneededtofollowspecificrequirementsin theThreeLawsratherthanChineseCompanyLaw. Theforeigninvestorscouldnotfreelynegotiatewith theirChinesecooperatorsregardinghowtogovern andoperatethecompanylikeanydomesticcompany. Inaddition,priorto2016,foreigninvestorsneededto strictlyfollowsomeofthegovernment’sfirmmarket accesscontrolmeasures.Thesemeasureswere implementedthroughtheMinistryofCommerce’s CataloguefortheIndustrialGuidanceofForeign
Formoreinformationpleasevisit
dandreapartners.com or WeChat:dandreapartners 21
DISCLAIMER
Investments(“MOFCOMCatalogue”),which maintainedalistofdomesticindustriesinwhich foreigninvestmentmaybestrictlylimitedoroutright prohibited.TheMOFCOMCatalogueframework subjectedeveryforeigninvestmenttoextensive governmentreviewandapprovalprocesses,including antitrustandnationalsecurityreviews,regardlessof theapplicableindustry.Ifapproved,theirbusiness activitieswerestrictlylimitedtothescopeoftheir businesslicenses.In2016,theMOFCOMCatalogue wasreplacedbytheSpecialAdministrativeMeasures fortheAccesstoForeignInvestment(NegativeList), whichremovedtheuniversalreviewandapproval processes.UndertheNegativeListframework, foreigninvestorsareaffordedthesamemarketaccess asdomesticentities,unlesstheparticularindustryis restrictedorprohibitedforreasonsofnational securityorpublicwelfare.TheNegativeListhasbeen graduallyandsignificantlyshortenedandChina keepsbroadeningthemarketopentoinvestors.
TheManyDynastiesofForeign InvestmentinChina
Withthegoalofactivelypromotingforeign investment,thenewcontrolsconsiderablyexpand foreigninvestmentprotections,liftcertainforeign ownershiplimitationsandrelaxregulatory requirementsforforeigninvestorsinChina.
ince1978,Chinahasformallypursuedapolicyof “reformandopening-up”inanefforttoattract foreigninvestment.Eversince,resultingreforms havegraduallyliberalisedthenation’sforeign investmentcontrols.Between1983and2020,foreign investmentincreasedbyafactorofnearly1,000,from US$1.77billiontoUS$1.36trillion.
FromthedevelopmentofforeigninvestmentinChina since“openingup”,wecanseethatafterseveral dynastiesofforeigninvestment,thelimitations theretohavebeenreduced,theproceduresthereto havebeenfacilitatedandthemarketsthereto broadened. Chinathereforehasbecome,andremains,oneofthe mostattractivedestinationsforforeigninvestorsin thewholeworld.
TheGlobalCrayfish Capitalinourown JiangsuProvince C
Huai’anisacentreforgrainproduction.Since ancienttimes,ithasbeenknownas"granaryofthe world"and"hometownoffishingrice".Locatedin thealluvialplainofboththeYangtzeandYellow rivers,itscrisscrossingriversandlakesprovide forgoodsoilandwaterquality.Withafavourable climateandlittlepollution,itstheperfectspotto growrice. Andinrecentyears,ricewithadifference.Rice andcrayfishgrowinidenticalenvironments,so localfarmersquicklyrealisedtheycould effectivelydoubletheirlands’yieldsbygrowing themtogether.Whilethecrayfishdidnotseemto mind,themovehadquiteaneffectontherice. Infact,thetasteandnutritionalvalueofXuyi’s CrayfishRicehasbeenhighlyrecognisedby expertsfromtheShanghaiAcademyof AgriculturalSciences’GrainResearchInstitute andtheShanghaiOceanUniversity.
hina’sappetiteforcrayfish(longxia; 龙虾) isnowwellknownallovertheworld.But thesideeffectsofthisenormousindustry canbesurprising,butjustasappetising. AndoneinparticularmakesavisittoXuyiworth thetripinitself. AsacountyofHuai’anCityinJiangsu,Xuyihas becomesynonymouswithcrayfish.Anenormous crayfishsculpturesitsasidethetollbooththat announcesyourarrival,whiletheXuyi governmentbuildingisapieceofmodern architecturebasedontheshapeofacrayfishbody. Yes,thereisnoescaping crayfishhere.
Thenin2017,Xuyi’sCrayfishRicewonagoldaward inanationalfishingricecompetition.Andforgood reason;notjustbecauseofitspurpletinge. Whilecrayfishmaynotbetoeveryone’staste,the ricederivedtherefromisjustplaindelicious. By FrankHossack
THENANJINGER |VOLUME12ISSUE09|AUGUST 2022 22
THENANJINGER |2022.08
TheNanjing Crayfish Connection
Overall,Chinaisnowtheworld’sbiggest exporterofcrayfish,whiletheChinese themselveschomptheirwaythroughmore than90percentofglobalcrayfish consumption,over1milliontonsofthebeasts eachyear. TheNanjingerremindstonotbuydeadcrayfish,eatthem rawortheirheads.Can’tfinishthem?Doaskforadoggybag, evenwithnointentionofeatingthemlater;unscrupulous restaurantsareknowntosellleftoversonasnew.
Noright-minded,crayfish-lovingJapanesewasabouttoleave theirpettostarve.Soinstead,theyplonkedthemintoalakenear Nanjing’sformermilitaryairfield(thenalsothecity’scivilian airport)closetoNanjingSouthRailwayStation,wherethey couldfeedonboththelivinganddeadorganicmattertherein. Heretheyalsomultiplied.Fastforwardtothe1980s;with livingstandardsimprovingandpeople’sdiets becomingmorevaried,soamultitudeof crustaceansfoundtheirwaytothedinner table.AsthememoryoftheNanjingMassacre wasonlyhalfacenturydistant,thecrayfishwas notoneofthem. YettheChinesearenotabouttolet anythinggotowaste,especially economicopportunity,andsoitcame tobethattheenterprisingpeopleof Xuyi,inwesternJiangsu,sawfitto spendthenextfewdecadesturning theircityintoacrayfishindustrialbase.
Thecrayfishinwhichsomanydelightisaclosecousintothat famedinLouisiana,USA.ImportedtoJapanforuseasfeedfor theSouthAmericanbullfrog,theJapanesesotoodelightedinthe crayfishforbeinglowinfat,highinproteinandeasytoraise. WiththedefeatofJapaninWorldWarII,sotheJapanese soldiers,andmanycivilians,departedNanjing.Amongthemany logisticaldifficulties,whattodowithallthecrayfishwhichmany Japaneselikedtokeepaspets?
Imagecourtesynoel-lee.com
By FrankHossack
24
ManynotableothershavealsospokenhighlyofLee throughouttheyears.Amongthem,AaronCopland, whosecompositionsinclude“Fanfareforthe CommonMan”,amajorhitforEmerson,Lakeand Palmerin1977.Coplandiscreditedbysomeas creatingthesoulofAmericanmusicthroughits evokingofthecountry’svastlandscapes.OfLee, Coplandsaid, “Hereisacomposerwhowriteshis musicwithhiseyeswideopen,andwithakindof coolintensitythedefineshispersonality…Musicto himisanaturallanguage,alanguageheuses withoutstrainormannerism…Nomatterhow complexthetexturesmaybe,themusicaldiscourse isalwayslucidandreasoned”. Leepassedawayon15July,2013.Foranyone seriousaboutmusic,astudyofLee’scareerisboth anessentialandfascinatingglimpseintothemind ofamaster.AndaGreatNanjinger.
Lettersawardedhiminrecognitionofhiscreative workingeneral. BackinFrance,hecareerwastoculminatewiththe Frenchgovernment’sDepartmentofCultural AffairsawardingLeethegradeofCommandeurde l’OrdredesArtsetLettresin1998.ThecityofParis awardedhimtheGrandPrixdelaMusiquethe followingyearandlaGrandeMédaillein2004.
SpeakingofEurope,anyoneseriousaboutpianois goingtobeconnectedinsomewaytoFrance. AndsoitwasforLeewhowenttoParisin1948,to continuehiseducationundertheguidanceofNadia Boulanger,theleadingconductorwhotaughtmany ofthe20thcentury’sfinestcomposersand musicians.Underher,LeewastowintheLili BoulangerCompositionPrize.OfLee,Boulanger wrote, “LeeisoneofthefinestmusiciansIhave met.[A]composerwitharealpersonality,hehas refinement,asenseofthehierarchyofvaluesanda totalunderstandingoftheworks”.
PerformingPianist whobeganLifein Nanjing; NoëlLee
BorninNanjingon25December,1924,Lee unfortunatelydidnotremaininourfaircityverylong. Just7monthsinfact,beforehedidhisfirstbitof globetrotting,acrossthePacificOcean,atthetime quiteajourneyforsomeonenotyetatoddler.
Itwasthenontotwoprominentinstitutionsforhis highereducation.AtHarvard,Leestudiedunder musictheoristandprofessorofmusic,WalterPiston. InCambridge,Massachusetts,Leeincreasedhis musicalknowledgeexponentiallyattheLongy SchoolofMusicofBardCollegeinitsiconicEdwin AbbotHouse,aprimeexampleofRichardsonian Romanesquearchitecture.
NoëlLeewasaglobetrottingpianistandcomposer whoalsoservedforover3yearsduringWorldWar IIandhadaparticularpassionforthestudyof musicforpianofourhands.
Leereplied,“It’saquestionofmakingthepiano one'sownandbeingusedtotheinstrumentthat youhaveforafewhours.Itdoesn'ttakelongtosee whataninstrumentcando.But,asalways,thebest rehearsalistheconcertitself”.
Oncethere,itcouldbearguedthatLeebeganhis musicalcareeragedjust5,withhisstudiesofmusic inLafayette,intheUSStateofIndiana.
Theawardsweresoontostartpilingup.WhenLee wasstilljust35,theAmericanAcademyofArtsand
BackonUSsoiloncemore,andinaninterviewwith BruceDuffieonthewebsite,kcstudio.com,Leewas asked, “Whenyougettoanewlocation,howlong doesittaketomakethepianoyourown?”.
THENANJINGER |VOLUME12ISSUE09|AUGUST 2022 Great Nanjingers (24) Worldwide
~8~
The“Eye”of coursereferstothecable-stayedbridge’stwo supportingtowers,theybeingovalandeyeshaped. AsthefirstsightseeingpedestrianbridgeontheYangtze River,theNanjingEyelinkstheNanjingInternational YouthCultureCenter(NIYCC)andJiangxinZhouYouth OlympicForestPark. ButtheNanjingiconwasoriginallydestinedtobevery different,verybiginfact. ThedesignisbasedonZaha Hadid’soriginalproposalfortheproject(shewasalso responsiblefortheadjacent“spaceship”,otherwise knownasNIYCC). Hersingle-archdesignwastobe150 metreshighandfeatureathree-storyobservation platformatitstop.
By FrankHossack
THENANJINGER |2022.08 27 TheBuildingofNanjing
ButfrugalitywasawatchwordforNanjing’sYouth
OlympicGames.Therefore,thingsgottoneddownand the bridge’stwoeyesnowinsteadriseverticallyjust82.5 metres.Andthatobservationplatform?Cancelled. Fromanarchitecturalperspective,theNanjingEyetakes itscuefromtheancientstonearchbridgestypicalof China’sJiangnanarea. Fromafar,theeyesappearas whitejadebeltstiedtotheRiver,whilethebridge’ssteel cablesseemtoflutterupward,likethestringsofaharp. Specialmentionisalsoreservedforthebridge’slighting systemandguardrails. TheNanjingEyehasthreedifferentmodesoflighting; weekdaymode,holidaymodeandspecialcelebration mode.Asfortheguardrails,inthepeople-oriented,equal andfraternalspiritoftheYouthOlympics,thereisan upperguardrail,describedasbeingfor“ordinaryadults”, andalowerguardrail,intendedforusebychildrenor thoseinwheelchairs. ConstructionoftheNanjingEyepedestrianbridgegot underwayon15January,2013. WithtypicalChina efficiencyinthelargepublicworksdepartment,uponits completion,the827-metrepedestrianbridgewasput intouseon16August,2014,theverysamedayasthe openingoftheYouthOlympics.
TheNanjingEye T
hetimingandpurposewereperhapsnotthemost fortunate.Openedintimeforthe2014Youth Olympics,namedtheNanjingEyeandhotonthe heelsoftheLondonEyeopeningforthe2012Olympics, comparisonsandcriticismsweresuretobedrawn. Whycopythename?Infact,it’spurecoincidence,but onethatneverthelessconvenientlycapitalisedonthe fameofitsUK-based,verydistantcousin.
No,actually,wedo notneedtogoany further.Thebest typeoffried dumplings,Iwould argue,isrighthere inourveryown city.Itistheonlytypeof dumplingthatcanbelegitimatelycalled guotieintheeyesofNanjingfoodies.
I’mnotsayingmoreoilmeansmoredeliciousness, butyouknowthatisoftenthetruth.Ifyoudon’t
TherearemanyreasonswhythisNanjingtypeof guotietastesbetterthanotherordinaryfried dumplings,buthereisthefirstandforemostreason: itisdeepfried.
Therearemanyothercriteriatobemet.Hotwatermust beusedwhenmixingthedoughforextrasoftness.The wrappersshouldbeabitthickerthannormaldumplings toallowdifferenttexturesfromtheoutsidetotheinside.
YoucanfindNanjing-styleguotieanywhereinthecity, butyoucan’ttalkaboutitwithoutmentioningQijiawan.
THENANJINGER |VOLUME12ISSUE09|AUGUST 2022 28
Yetagain,frieddumplingsaremadedifferentlyallover China.Theyhavedifferentnames,too.Themost commontype,knownas“jianjiao”(煎饺),meaning“panfrieddumpling",isfriedonthebottomandthen steamedbyaddingwaterintothepan.Anotherwidely usedtermis“guotie”(锅贴),literarilytranslatedas “potstickers”.Thisisaconfusingone.Sometimesitis usedinterchangeablywithjianjiao,whilesometimesit referstoatypeofrectangular-shapeddumplingwith unsealededges.Insomeotherplaces,northernJiangsu forexample,guotieisnothingclosetodumplingatall, butflatbreadstuckonthesideofawokandcooked alongwithastew.
NANKINISH
ThemagicofQijiawanisanIslamicone.Nanjinghasbeen homeofMuslimcommunitiesforcenturies. Beforethe foundingofPRC,thousandsofMuslimhouseholds residedalongthebanksoftheInnerQinhuaiRiver. At thecentreoftheneighbourhoodwasQijiawan,about 1.5kmsouthwestofXinjiekou,where onewouldfindbutcheries, eateries,leathershopsandspice marketsthatattractedboth MuslimandHancustomers. Foodwasthemainreason forHanresidentsfromother partsofthecitytovisittheMuslimquarter.Inthe olddays,theywouldgetupearlytobuysome beefandmuttonfromthebutcheriesinQijiawan, andhavesomefrieddumplingsasbreakfastin theeateriesnearby. Thosedaysaregoneastheareawastorndown andrenewedatthestartofthiscentury.Forsmaller
ForthisisthemagicwordusedinNanjingtogrant authenticitytofrieddumplings.Whereveryouopena food-deliveryappinthiscity,youwillfindoneormorefried dumplingrestaurantswithindeliverydistancethatclaim themselvestobesomehoworiginatedfromQijiawan.
Theproblemis,notalldumplingsarecreatedequal. Someofthemtasteabsolutelybetterthanothers.This holdstrueevenifwesupposetheyallhavethesame fillings,becausethewrappersandthewaytheyare cookedalreadymakeconsiderabledifferences. Inmyview,thebettertypesofdumplingsarefried dumplings. Thatshouldnotsoundtoocontroversial, because,let’sfaceit,oilisthesecrettodeliciousness.
By WuZeyuan
Theremustbesomefrieddumplingsthattaste evenbetterthanothers.Tofindthebestofthebest intheworldofChinesedumplings,weneedtogoa stepfurther.
believeinoil,howaboutthefollowing:itiscrispyon theoutside,softandjuicyontheinside,filledwith beefandbeefonly.
T hereisaChinesesayingthatgoes, “Nothing feelsbetterthanlyingdown;nothingtastes betterthandumplings.”
Themeatfillingshouldtastesweetandsalty.Their shapeshouldbeelongatedlikeanewmoon. Cooking shouldbedoneinahuge,blackironpan,andoil shouldbeaddedtwice. Speakingofoil,aChinesetype ofcanolaoilistheonlyacceptableoption,onewitha strongerflavourandofadarkercolour.
Anyway,youhavebeenwarned.Wedon’texpectthe tastiestfoodtobethehealthiestatthesametime, dowe? ToanativeNanjingfoodie,saidfeaturesarenotyet enoughtojustifythesedumplingsasauthenticguotie.
eateriesthatspecialiseindumplings,movingcanbe riskyastheyarelesslikelytoberecognisedbybrand nameatadifferentlocation. Onlythenameof Qijiawan,orthememoryofit,helpstosendthemessage thattheirdumplingsarehalal,authenticanddelicious. Fortunately,herewecanstillfindsomeofthebestguotie. Lijiisnowthebusiestplaceinthevicinity.Itisimportant tolookforabusyrestaurantforfrieddumplings, becauseyouareguaranteedthemfreshlymaderight outofthepan.Theplacealsohasadelithatsells cooked,marinatedbeefbyweight,goodforbothdining inandtakeout. Ifitisyourfirsttime visitingLiji,orfirsttime tryingNanjing-style frieddumplings,next upareeighttipsfora delicious,troublefreeexperience. Hireadriveroruse publictransportation. Parkingcan beaproblem.Publictransportationisthebestif weatherpermits;it’sonly5minuteswalkfrom ZhangfuyuanStationonMetroLine1. Avoidbusyhours,butdon’tbetoolate. Iknowwhat’s worsethandesperatelylookingforaseatinapacked restaurant.It’swhiledoingthat,findingyourselfstuck betweentableswhileotherpeopletrytopassyouwitha trayofhotsoupintheirhands.Ifyoucanonlygoat weekends,thebesttimeisbetween13:30and16:30.You shouldbeabletofindatableforyouandyour companions,andenjoyyourmealwithoutdisturbance. Evenonweekdays,itisbettertoavoidbusyhours,suchas 12:00and17:30,butdon’tbetoolateastheycloseat19:30. Watchhowthedumplingsarefried(ordon’t,ifyou worryaboutfatintake). Youshouldbeabletowatch thisatanyguotierestaurantinNanjing.Typically,the dumplingsarefriedinanopenkitchenfacingtheroad, andLijiisnoexception.Theentire processoffryingabatchof dumplingstakesnomorethan5 minutes.Youwillseethatmaking perfectguotierequiresalotof practiceandskill,andalotof…oil. Forwhatyouareabouttoeat….I hopeyouwon’tfeelguilty. Orderandpickup. InmanytraditionalChinesediners, youorderandpayatthecounter,andpickupyourfood fromdesignatedwindowswiththeticketsyouhave receivedfromthecashier.Lijihasmadeitabiteasier,as youonlyneedtopickuptheguotiebyyourself.For otherdishes,allyouhavetodoisgiveyourticketstoany staffmemberandletthemknowthenumberofyour table.Theywillbedeliveredtoyourtableoncetheyare ready.AnotherthingthatLijihasmadefirst-timerfriendlyistochangetheterm“liang”(两;50g)to“ke”(客; aserving),whichmakesmoresensethesedays.The useof“liang”asameasurewordfordumplingsisa legacyoftheplanned-economyperiod.Justkeepin mindthatoneliang,oroneserving,ofguotiemeansfive pieces,whichisthesmallestunityoucanorder. Saveroomforothergoodies. Iwouldrecommend beefsouporbeefwontontocomplementyourcrispy dumplings.Manypeoplealsoliketheirfriedbuns;similar toguotieinmanywaysbutusingleaveneddough. Usevinegar. Seethatvinegarbottleonyourtable?Use it.Yourdumplingswillthankyouforbringingthemtolife. Addsomechilisauceifthat’syourthing. Mindyourtrousers. Thisusefultipisfromoneofmy diningcompanions.Helearneditthehardway.Keepin mindthatthefillingscontainsoupwhichmay splatterasyoubite. Incaseyoucan’tfind aseat,thereisaplan BandaplanC. Looks likeyouhavenot followedTip2verywell. Don’tworry,youcan alwaysordertakeaway. PlanCistojustwalk180metrestothewestwhereyou willfindanothergreatguotieeaterynamedCaoqiao, aroundthecorneroftheCaoqiao mosque.Itisnotas spaciousasLiji,but it’snotasbusy either.Itmightlooka bitshabby,butthe insideiscleanenough forsomegoodfood. Evenbetter,youare nowabletomakethe comparison:whichplaceintoday’sQijiawanhasthe bestfrieddumplings? THENANJINGER |2022.08 LijiHalalRestaurant 李记清真馆,1Dadingxiang 打钉巷1号 Tel:15205197105.Hours:5:30-19:30,MondaytoSunday CaoqiaoHalalBeefDumplings 草桥清真牛肉锅贴扁食店,11Qijiawan 七家湾11号 Tel:13913904069.Hours:5:00-19:00,MondaytoSunday 29
HOSTELRY ByMattFord NewForeignFave DaresUswithNanjing’s SpiciestWings 30 Additionalinfo,onlineversionorChinesecontactvia theQRcodethatfollowseachreview.
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Givenschoolhadahalfdayasitbrokeupforthe summerholiday,TheNanjingerchosetocelebrate withalunchattherecently-openedFocacciaPizzaBar.
varioussnacks(cheesefries,chickennuggets,etc.)from whichtochoose. Witheverythingweordered,theheritagebehindthe tastescomingoutofthislittletake-outstandshone throughinawaythattransportedusoutofChina.Readon formoreonthat. Wealsosampledaburgerfrom“HeyBurger”,rightbehind thecabofthesemi.Theleastsaidaboutthatthebetter,other thanittook40minutestoarrive.Nomore,thanks,guys.
Beforearriving,wehadareadalittleonlineastothe establishment’scredentials;itbeingopenedbyacharming Italianlady,withalittlehelpfromherhusband,aformerchef withFairmontNanjing,andahelperortwo.
excellentEnglish.Deliveriesareavailableforthosewholive nearby.Ifyoulikewings,beerandcocktailsthenyouaren’t goingtodobetterinNanjing.Manybarsthatspendhalfthe eveningempty,withoverpricedofferings,couldlearnmuch fromStephen’spromotionsandpricingpolicy.Inall,thisisa verywelcomeadditiontoNanjing’sfoodanddrinkscene.
Alsoavailable,winebythebottle(includingProsecco; we’reinItaly,afterall),gin&tonicandHeineken.Backwith thesolids,therearealsosalad,pastaofthedayand
WingStationislocatedat318,Building1/2, JianyeWuyueSquare,68JiangdongLu 江东中路 68号吾悦广场1、2幢318室.Tel:18851051268.
TheNanjingerwastednotimeinorderinguptwofocacciapizza “baskets”;salami-tomato,ofcourse,andherbs-sausagetomato-mozzarella(both¥24),plusagrilledchickensandwich (¥42),aThaisodawater(¥12)andalargemojito(¥36),forwhich theygrowtheirownmintinflowerboxesoutside.
FocacciaPizzaBarisfoundattheendofthe800-metrelong YinxingliCulturalStreetonthewesternsideofNanjing’sOlympic Centre,offLeshanLu.Comprisingrestaurants,cafés,bars(the whiskybarinTribecabeingthemostbeautifulthis correspondenthaseverseen)andvariouspop-upattractions, suchasaminiskatepark,manymighthavedinnerherebefore attendingabigshowintheJiangsuGrandTheatre,whileothers plumpforapost-performancecocktailortwo. Asweopen-airdined,anItalianfamilyarrived,anditwas quicklyapparenttheywerefrequentpatronstoFocacciaPizza Bar.Soonthesun-kissedairwasfilledwiththatstereotypical Italianbanter.Andforafewminutes,butjustafew,wewerein Italy.Anditwasallsovery,veryperfect.
Americanscallitasemi.Usanarticulatedtruck.Whether realornot,itdoesmakeforauniqueplaceinwhichtoput arestaurantortwo.Ortobemoreprecise,atake-out standortwo.AndFocacciaPizzaBarfindsitselfintheback ofthetruck.
FocacciaPizzaBarisa10-minutewalkfrom exit6ofOlympicStadiumstationonMetro Line10.
GASTRONOMY
ByFrankHossack MomentstoSavour (buttheRestaurant’s intheBackofaSemi)
sommeliersandbarstaff.Thecraftbeervenuewasopened asabitofahobbyontheside,anditfitsinverywellwiththis eclecticmulti-purposevenue. Thebeerbarfeaturessomeretroarcadegames(theywill giveyoutokensifyoufancyago),vintagecomputers,neon lighting,aliveperformancestageandacoupleofprivate rooms.Theeighttapsfeaturedomesticbeers,andthereare someexcellentimportedcannedandbottledbeersfrom thelikesofNøgne(Norway)andPõhjala(Estonia).Snacks arebasicandincludechickens’feet(noneoftheirbeeris strongenoughoravailableinsufficientquantityforthisto temptme),onionrings,noodles,friesanddumplings,allat modestprices.
THENANJINGER |VOLUME12ISSUE09|AUGUST 2022
H avingbeenopenforaround3months,Spring MountainTaproomisoneofNanjing’snewestcraft beervenuesandperhapsitsmostunusual.Itoccupiespart ofa16,000squaremetrecellarbeneathanoldfactoryina newlydevelopedchicareajustwestofChaotianPalace. DuringtheMaoErathecellarwasanair-raidshelter,and thenbecameasocialareaforthefactoryworkers.Manyof theoriginalfeaturesremainincludingheavysteeldoors, floralmotifsintheplasterwork,originalpaintwork,vaulted brickceilingsandglass-paneleddoors.
Iamtoldthechangingartexhibitionsaimtoapethose foundinShanghai’strendierlocations.Thevenue’sart directortrainedinLondonwhichcertainlyhasnoshortage ofavant-gardegalleriesandbars.Oneofthecurrent displayshasdarkgreenwallscoveredwithspoons,an ancientcomputer(youcanprogramitifyouknowBASIC) alongsideatypewriter,oldtelephonesonplinthsandin booths(theycancalleachother),unusualchairsanda plethoraofcuriositiestoostrangetomention.Talkingof strange,thereiscurrentlya“StrangerThings”themewitha grandfatherclockandcinemaroomplayingitonaloop. Strangeindeed… Ilikeitforitsuniqueness,evenifIamnottheirtarget market.It’saplaceyouhavetoseeforyourselfreally.It’s likeacuriousdream.Yes,thereisbeer,soitis fundamentallyahappydream,buttherestislikea nostalgic80sflashbackinterruptedbyslightly disquietingdashesofMontyPython’sFlyingCircusand SalvadorDali. Thevenueopensfrom09:00,principallyfortheirwine businessandtrainingcourses.Thebeerbaropensofficially from18:00tomidnightbut,critically,theyarehappytopour abeeratanytimeofdayifthirstycustomersturnupand requestit.Aprivatetastingroomisavailableforhireandis theonlypartofthevenuethatallowssmoking.Thereare Wine,Beer,Monty Python,Dali&Vintage ArcadeGames(eh?!)
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Theextraordinaryvenueincludesawinecellarofsome 50,000bottles(rangingfromlessthan100tomorethan 100,000CNY),tastingrooms,adancehall,acoffeeand cocktailbarandartexhibitionspaces.Theowner’smain businessiswine,andhehasawineryinnorthwestChina (ChateauWitch).Inadditiontosellingwine(fromalloverthe world),herunsaccreditedtrainingcoursesforwine
HOSTELRY ByMattFord
TheFirstSuperApp(ISBN978-988-8769-42-1; 212pages),publishedbyEarnshawBooks,is availableviatheQRcodeandonAmazon.
SpringMountainTaproomislocatedat329 MochouLu 莫愁路329号.Tel:17384464996.
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Thebigquestion,ofcourse,isdidtheyhaveanyideathat WeChatwasgoingtobeasbigasitistoday?
Q:Howdoescensorshipwork?
MovingontothesecondpartofTheNanjinger’schatwith Shimota,inwhichwefieldedhimquestionssubmittedbysome ofouralertreaders.Theanswerstoselectquestionsare paraphrasedbelowforbrevity(theauthorreally,reallylikesto talkandweranoverourallottedinterviewtimebyawide margin.)Sorry,butwesimplydon’thavethecolumninches.
TheNanjingerreceivedapre-releasecopyofthebookand wasdelightedtobegrantedaZoommeetingwiththe author.TurnsouttheSeattle,USA,native,whonowlivesin Sydney,Australia,withhiswifeanddog,isadelightwith whomtoconverse.
LITERATURE ByFrankHossack WeChatRocks;What’s BehindtheWorld’s FirstSuperApp?
Inhisbook,findoutabouthowthetraditionalWorldWideWeb workedouttobeinsufficientforChina,internetdiversity(re. regularswingdancingsessionsattheweekendandother randomevents.Ifyouareinterested,givethemacall.
Uber&Didi),stufflike“positivenetworkexternality”andthe rulesandvalueonwhichWeChatpridesitself.
JiangsuTV-datingshow,“FeiChengWuRao”(非誠勿擾), occasionallygetsaforeigneronthereforabitofextra spice.ThenKevinShimotaturnedupwithhisbikeandtent. Everysingleprospectivegirlditchedhim.
A:Itfallsunder“Security”,justaspornographyandviolence does.Somepostsandimagesgetflagged,andthere’s reallynotmuchelsetoit.Noconspiraciesthere.
A:WeChatismoreorlesslocatedina(large)backofficeat Tencent.DuringShimota’stenure,onlyabout1,000people workedatWeChat.Hefiguresit’sprobably2,000today (that,obviously,isliterallynothingforsomethingthatboasts asmanyusersandfinancialtransactionsasitdoes). Unbelievablyimpressivestuff.
THENANJINGER |2022.08
ItwasclearWeChatwasgoingtobeahitearlyonanditwas goingtochangealotofthings.Shimotarevealedthatwhilethe headofWeChatisononelevelveryhumble,freelyadmitting heknowsnothingabouthowtomakeanappfortherestofthe world,he’salsoarrogantonanother,virtuallysaying,“‘Noone cantellmehowtomakeaproductinChina.Iknowhowtodo that’.…He’sveryconfidentinhisproductmanagementskills”.
Notsofast,ladies.Fornotlongafter,Shimotathenappearedas DirectorofGlobalMarketingandPartnershipsforWeChat. Thatwas2016,justasWeChatwasbecomingtheworld’sfirst superapp.AndnowShimotahaswrittenabookabouthis4 yearswiththeonlinebehemoth,entitled“TheFirstSuper App;InsideChina’sWeChatandtheNewDigitalRevolution”. Asreaderswilldiscover,withWeChat,theuserexperience isking.Nothingelsematters.Notevenmoney.Scaleiswhat it’sallabout,andabunchofotherthings,suchastheunique natureoftheChineseinternet.Butscaleiswhereit’sat,and withoutit,WeChatcouldnotpowerthemyriadof capabilitiesithas.Andasaresult,monetise.
Q:WhendoesWeChatmakemoneywhenIuseitto buysomething? Itdoesn’tdirectly,butthathelpstoputWeChatinapostion whereitcanmakemoney.Butifweclickonanadandthen buysomething,thenyes.
Q:HowmanypeopleworkforWeChat?
Thisyear'ssummercampatTheBritishSchoolofNanjingsawafullsetof EarlyYearschildrenjointhefunacrossafortnightastheSchooloffered freeplacestotheyoungeststudents,duetoearlierlockdownslimitingtheir timewiththeirteachers.Withafocusonthearts,therewereplentyof activitiestoinspireeverybuddingdancer,designer.actororartist!
THENANJINGER |VOLUME12ISSUE09|AUGUST 2022 34 27June-8July
Downloadthismap toyoursmartphone viaTheNanjinger website
Inthecaseoflasttrains,passengersareadvisedtoenterthestationofdepartureatleast10minutesbeforethetraintime. THE
TheNanjinger’sMetroMapistheonlyprintedmapofthecity’smetrosystemtoincludefirstandlasttimesforevery station,perfectforplanningalatenightoutoranadventuretosomewherenewwithanearlystart.
