A Day in Rome: Testaccio

Welcome to the Roman neighborhood of Testaccio. As far as Rome goes, we think it’s a little off the beaten path in just the right way. There is a rich history with proud and strong culinary traditions, but you can also feel bit of positive change in the air. When you want a taste of Rome beyond the scenic parks and stunning fountains, this is where you come (although there is a lovely fountain here too).

Testaccio started out as a major trading port and eventually evolved into a working class neighborhood that was home to Rome’s slaughterhouse or, Mattatoio. Until 1975 this part of town is where meat was processed. That led to the development of a particular appreciation for all useable, edible parts of the animal that is still very evident in local homes and restaurants alike today. The old slaughterhouse, known today as the ex- Mattatoio, is still there but now houses the Museo Macro Testaccio, where until recently Mike and Doug Starn’s Big Bamboo sat and greeted visitors at the entrance. The old slaughterhouse grounds also contain the Citta dell Altra Economia, a public space where you can find farmers markets, music festivals and walls where street artists like Alice Pasqualini have left their mark.

From the Citta dell Altra Economia you can catch a good view of Monte Testaccio. It is essentially a manmade hill built entirely from broken amphora pieces. During the Roman Empire, for reasons not entirely clear, that’s simply where amphorae were discarded. They discarded so many that eventually the pile grew into a hill and now it’s one of the largest and best preserved sites of its type.

We paid a visit to the ex-Mattatoio and Monte Testaccio but not before visiting Testaccio’s famous market. Many would agree that it’s the best in Rome. There is a clear but harmonic meeting of new and old there, with butcher stands that have been around for generations sitting yards away from stands where you can get green juices and gluten free goods.

One of the most interesting things about Testaccio, however, is the residents. This is another element of the neighborhood where old and new are coming to be more and more juxtaposed. There are the recent arrivals opening new businesses and plenty of old fixtures who have been here, frequenting the same cafes and restaurants from birth to retirement and beyond.

One of our most favorite Testaccio residents is the lovely Rachel Roddy. Rachel is a transplant from the U.K. and is certainly contributing to the revival of interest in this part of town that has been steadily growing in recent years. She has just published her first cookbook, »Five Quarters: Recipes and Notes from a Kitchen in Rome«. It is somewhere between a personal diary, a love-letter to Testaccio and its food, and an exceptionally useful and helpful instructional on the Roman kitchen. Our last stop in Testaccio was her apartment where she tested and created many of the meals featured in her book and where her love affair with Testaccio turned into a serious, committed relationship. She talked to us about how she fell in love with Rome against her will ten years ago (she never planned on staying), how she has seen her adopted home shift and change since she’s arrived, and the honesty of the Testaccio kitchen that attracted her so much. We hope you’ve enjoyed taking our tour of Testaccio as mush as we enjoyed giving it. We hope you’ll go check it out for yourself next time you’re in Rome.

We are delighted to present Rachel's book »Five Quarters« with recipes and an essay excerpt on the following pages.

Text: Marta Alexandra Abbott – museradio.org

Photos: Theresa Neubauer & Trine Skauen

Video: Katrina Tan

Kamera: Marco di Filippo