SE N S E .
SCANDI SIX 1
martinaspetlova.com
www.peopletree.co.uk
Editor-in-Chief Art Director Associate Editor Fashion Editor Features Editor Beauty Editor Online and Magazine Assistant Contributing Photographers
Contributing Stylists Contributing Assistant Stylists Contributing Hair & Make Up Artists
Contributing Writers
S ENS E .
SCANDI
Cover image Photographer - Mike Blackett Make-up - Louise Dartford Hair - Sheridan Ward Model - Natasha Gilbert @ IMG
Alina Rätsep Fiona Garden Rachael Oku Victoria Sekrier Claire Belle Lewis Georgie Wolfinden @ Glowgetter.co.uk Kate Stanbury Fiona Garden Martin Zahringer Sasha Rainbow Mike Blackett Malcolm Campbell Victoria Sekrier Sasha Rainbow Olivia Rose Howes OscarAlexander Lundberg Natalie Piacun Tenille Bon Fan Holly Silius Michael Johns Laura Edgecumbe-Ansdell Nicola Thornley Axel Schroderus Kate Stanbury Rebecca Oliver Jess Latapie Kyra de Vreeze Salha Jemaiel Jenny Janse Tyrone Farley Viola Levy Helena Lundberg Catharina Sundström Chantelle Chirimuuta Ali Schofield Magaly Fuentes Sarah Joynt Thea Natalie Lou Dartford
SIX Magazine is published by SIX MAGAZINE LIMITED. © Copyright 2011 SIX Magazine Limited. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopy, recording or any information storage and retrieval system, without the written permission of the Publisher.
SIX 6
editor’s
Letter
WINTER in spirit
Scandinavia is where my heart is. There are many reasons to love this corner of the Earth. For one, it’s where Alexander Skarsgård comes from. Then there is the design, of course. The food, the white nights, the saunas, and the golden hair. Nowadays, I am more looking forward to Copenhagen Fashion Week than to LFW, and arguably the best organic skin care comes from the Nordic labs. No one knows her here in the UK, but I grew up on Astrid Lindgren’s children stories; if you have a chance I suggest you read at least a couple. They will probably teach you a thing or two. In other exciting news, on the other end of the planet from Scandinavia, SIX has been announced as the official Eco Media Partner of Shanghai Fashion Week’s closing show, which will be all about sustainability and ethics in fashion. To centre the closing show of a major Fashion Week around ethics is still revolutionary in itself, but to have it happen in China shows just how huge the ethical progress is that the fashion industry in China, and by extension globally, is going to make in the next five years. As excited as we are, it gets even better because headlining the show is our all-time favourite Scandinavian designer Camilla Wellton.
Have a wonderful winter, and we’ll see you again in spring! Alina Rätsep // EDITOR-IN-CHIEF follow @SIXmagazine
SIX 7
www.partimi.com
CONTENTS ON THE RADAR The Statement Knits - P. 20 Danaqa - P. 24 Sagen - P. 25 Knock On The Door - P. 26 Imagine Fashion - P. 27 Delicatessen, Oslo - P. 28 ART Naja Conrad-Hansen P. 30
27
ASK It’s Zara’s Show: Zara Martin, S&E fashion & Asian elephants - P. 34 S&E GUIDE to SCANDINAVIA S&E Iceland & Finland - P. 50 S&E Norway & Denmark - P. 54 S&E Sweden - P. 62 EXPLORE Helsinki: For The Coffee Lovers - P. 148 Oslo: World’s Biggest Village - P. 150
REVIEW Eco Fashion is the Future: Sass Brown - P. 114
SIX 10
30 148
86
118 73
FASHION Fashion Editor’s Notes: “More Glitter? I say ‘rubbish’!” - P. 40 SIX Loves… Bjorg - P. 44 Hell For Leather - P. 68 Not Just a Label: New Label Powerhouse - P. 73 Camilla Wellton: Swedish Eco Luxury - P. 82 Man’s World: Tailoring with a Feminine Edge - P. 86 Mad Scandia: The Quirky Side of Norse Knits - P. 96 Viking Woman: Noir Sparkle - P. 104 Investment Plan: Maximise Your Fashion Capital P. 108 BEAUTY Beauty Editor’s Notes - P. 118 SIX Loves… Bee Yummy - P. 120 About Face: forget trends, it’s all about mood make up - P.122 Scandinavian Beauty Musts - P. 130 SIX beauty tips from Mette Picault - P. 134 Raison d’être: Swedish Spa Heaven - P. 136 Vanity Case - P. 138 HEALTH & NUTRITION Meet the New Sweet: vegan, gluten-free and delicious P. 144 Along Came Polly: What It Takes To Fight Cancer In Your 20s - P. 146 LAST PAGE Wise Words of Camilla Wellton - P. 152 SIX 11
SIX 12
...at Shanghai Fashion Week P1 logo 是黑白的没有梯度 P1 logo 包括P1.CN The P1 logo is black and white, it never has gradient The P1 logo includes P1.CN
SIX magazine is proud to announce that we are an official eco media partner of the Lexus Shanghai Fashion Week Closing Ceremony. The show will revolve around ethics and sustainability in fashion, and is being held in partnership with P1.CN, China’s first private social network targeted at urban elites in China.
P1.CN is taking this opportunity to release its new platform, as well as celebrating the re-launch as a more socially responsible brand. P1.CN seeks to aggregate China in becoming the world’s culture leader, while creating a social platform that attracts and enables exceptional people to share and experience exceptional lifestyle. Shanghai Fashion Week is China’s largest and most important fashion event and a thousand guests are expected to attend its closing show. International and Chinese journalists from the leading media, celebrities, designers, retailers and models will all gather at the Shanghai International Fashion Centre on 27th October to celebrate the event, as well as the sustainable future of fashion. The show will see Lexus launching its new hybrid car, which will marks the introduction of the first and only full hybrid vehicle to the premium compact segment,"Driving Green to New Level." It will demonstrate the Lexus spirit of exploration in the development of eco-friendly technologies. Headlining the show is Swedish luxury eco designer Camilla Wellton - find an interview with her in Wise Words - P. 152
SIX contributors
Viola Levy
Kyra de Vreeze
Thea Natalie
Based in North London, Viola has written about beauty for several publications, currently editing the beauty section for GLASS Online. Having spent three years studying Philosophy, her career began in the fashion industry, where Viola came to realise her true love was for lipsticks, lotions and potions. She adores writing about niche, indie brands and the latest developments in ‘green’ beauty and hopes to one day write a novel. For now she’s happy searching for that perfect shade of lipstick.
Kyra is a published and certified activist for health & happiness. She writes (culinary) articles and books and develops inspirational lifestyle projects. She is a practical idealist with the ability to realize dreams and ideas. Kyra’s work has been featured in magazines such as Marie Claire and Cosmopolitan. Her latest projects include a vegan inspiration workshop for chefs at Michelin star restaurant De Librije, the promotion of her latest book Daytox and an online food, life and style platform.
Thea Natalie began her life in fashion through modelling in the sunny state of Queensland, Australia. A move to England in 2007 opened a world of opportunity for travelling, modelling, writing and fashion blogging that began to inspire a love of the creative process and the extravagance of fashion. “The opportunities in London are like nothing you could ever imagine, you just have to work hard and love what you do!”
makeupandthensome.blogspot.com w w w . k y r a d e v r e e z e . n l SIX 14
www.creaturesoflife.blogspot.com
Photo: Becky Prada
Nicola Thornley
Magaly Fuentes-Sagan Jess Latapie
Nicola Thornley is a freelance product development and sourcing consultant. Interested in ways of integrating S&E models into the mainstream, she has spent the past year working with producer groups in Africa and Asia to assess the capabilities and opportunities for building links between sustainable development projects and the global fashion industry. Nicole began her career at Alexander McQueen in London, before taking on production management and product development roles at Nicole Farhi and most recently, Burberry.
Magaly Fuentes-Sagan is a US-based freelance writer with a broad range of interests spanning art, fashion, travel, environmental issues and health. With an AS in Fashion Design and a BA in International Business and Marketing as well as a comprehensive fashion career that has included couture bridal design, sportswear product development, Visual Merchandising, buying and marketing, Magaly brings the scope of her experience to her written work. She writes for various magazines and is currently planning to launch an online apparel shop.
nicola.thornley@googlemail.comÂ
After studying Advertising and Marketing at Bournemouth University, Jessica started her career in the London media industry four years ago, dealing with press advertising, which ignited her passion for writing. She has contributed to SIX Magazine since issue one, showcasing her enthusiasm for chemical-free beauty. While working in a large publishing company, Jessica spends time working on her blog researching natural beauty, blending her own chemical freebody oils and indulging in her hobbies. www.jessicasattique.com
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SIX contributors
Helena Lundberg
Tyrone Farley
Salha Jemaiel
Swedish freelancer Helena Lundberg is living by the motto “Live, love and laugh”. As a former editor at Sweden’s leading fashion magazine Damernas Värld, she is primarily focused on fashion journalism. At the moment she is based in New York, where she studies Fashion Marketing and Management at Berkeley College. Helena is planning to move back to Sweden this autumn, but after falling madly in love with NYC, she states that “anything is possible”.
Tyrone Farley is fashion blogger based in New York. Though originally from Guyana, he has fashion blogged his way to be listed as an ‘influential one’ on www.influential1s.com and voted ‘Architect Of Style’ by his peers. He hosts panel discussions, tweet-ups, attends lifestyle brand launches and, of course NYFW, all in the name of fashion while blogging about it. Whatever the styles of tomorrow, Farley is poised to wear it, market it, and blog about it.
Salha Jemaiel is a 19-year-old F innish/Tunisian fashion blogger. Growing up in Finland, Salha moved to Tunisia to study fashion design. A lover of many things: music, 80s movies, nature, animals and autumn, Salha’s biggest love goes to fashion. Becoming interested in fashion at the tender age of 14-years old, Salha bought her first fashion magazines and started writing her first blog. Five years later Salha blogs about everyday life, viewing her blog as a big inspiration board/diary.
www.guldorika.wordpress.com
www.truefashionistanow.com SIX 16
thecabinetoffashion.blogspot.com
Catharina Sundström Jenny Janse Catharina is a make-up artist and a beauty blogger from Sweden. Her blog is read internationally and she provides her readers with product reviews, pictures, tips and tricks. As a make-up artist she’s constantly trying to progress and explore different techniques by learning from other make-up artists and working with a lot of photographers. Catharina also has a YouTube channel (MakeupLookMakeup), with make-up tutorials, where she guides viewers step-by-step on building up different kinds of make-up. www.makeuplook.blogspot.com
After having travelled the world and living in London and Sydney for the past six years Jenny is now back in her native Sweden. Currently putting all her energy into her latest project as a retailer of fabulous organic beauty products at www.swedishbeautyfactory.com, blogging also takes up a fair share of Jenny’s attention. What she loves most is undoubtedly spending time with baby Amalie and her husband.
www.naturalorganicbeautysalon. blogspot.com SIX 17
Axel Schroderus Axel Schroderus is a freelance photographer and journalist. He was born and raised in Helsinki and after years of travelling around the planet he found his home in London. His work experience varies from big time players like CNN to small and hip independent magazines like SIX. When Axel’s not busy with work he tries to spend his free time having a brewski, holding on to a beautiful babe and getting healed by Mother Nature.
www.pyrrha.com
Knitwear is back an Oversized, bold colours and big textures. This sea
O
Pringle
n the runways Alexander Wang displayed some of the most desirable knitwear of the season: chunky wool sweaters fused with silk slips, and slouchy angora jumpers layered over long satin dresses. Dressing up to go out on a cold winter’s night has rarely looked so appealing. Elsewhere, knitwear stalwarts Pringle of Scotland played on their heritage with herringbone, tweed and Fair Isle knits. Classic patterns were brought-up-to-date by adding contrasting texture with leather, fur and tassels. Experts at making knitwear, Pringle showed knitted coats and capes, skirts and dresses, and even matching wrist warmers. A new generation of Nordic designers are taking the lessons learnt from their ancestors and moving in very different and striking directions. EYGLO is the cute and quirky label of Reykjavik based designer Eygló Margrét Lárusdottir. Her chunky, wide-neck Icelandic knits have the appeal of wearing your boyfriend’s jumper, but the torneffect front adds a playful, teasing element, which has become typical of the Eyglo look. For a timeless hand-knit, look no further than Swedish brand Bergman’s who have been producing organic cotton products since 1986. They are part of The Eco Cotton Co. - one of the world’s largest suppliers of organic cotton that accounts for 57% of all of the organic cotton grown in Latin America. German/Icelandic duo Susanne Ostwald and Ingvar Helgason founded their London based brand Ostwald Helgason in 2008. Their AW11 collection features dip-dyed Dagmar mohair jumpers in their signature edgy style, which has captured the attention of fashion heavyweights.
The Sta Kn
nd it’s taking centre stage. ason, knitwear is daywear, eveningwear and outerwear.
atement nits
Their collection has recently been bought by Browns and is available online now. Lina Osterman - a London-based Swedish designer - established her eponymous second line in 2008 after graduating from Central St. Martins. Her first line is unisex brand Pudel, which was founded in 2005. Rich jewel colours are moving in to replace summer’s brights this season and Osterman’s turquoise cardigan featuring typical Osterman edginess is making a statement while being unexpectedly versatile. Swedish designer Nina Jarebrink offered up an oversized mohair v-neck jumper in her signature elegant-sexy style. Jarebrink’s first success came with her unique jewellery collection in 2005 but today her distinctive knitwear is the main essence of her design. For the ultimate statement knitwear look to Helsinki-based designer Saara Leopkorpi. Her multitextured chunky knit with winding colour blocks of jade green and storm grey reflects the dualities that often mark her work. Leopkorpi describes the contrasts in her work as ‘a marriage between the powerful, statemental and colourful tradition set by Finnish fashion pioneers in the 1960’s (Marimekko, Vuokko Nurmesniemi), and the sombre, Eastern-European state of mind Finns are known for’. Saara Leopkorpi’s line is produced inhouse at her studio in Helsinki. Dagmar’s edgy sheepskin-look knit with leather sleeves adds value to the humble cardigan in a modern and timeless way making this a real investment piece. House of Dagmar was established by three Swedish sisters for who safeguarding craftsmanship and valued traditions are important elements of the design process. Unconventional and sophisticated, many of the garments are hand-knitted or have hand-made Saara Lepokorpi details.
Ostwald Helgason
by Nicola Thornley
Pringle
on the radar
Danaqa Danaqa is a luxurious lifestyle
brand founded by husband and wife team, David Thomas and Nadia Manning-Thomas, who have both lived and worked across Africa and Asia for the last decade. Meaning ‘to be pleasantly surprised’, the brand is aimed at those with a passion for fashionable and unique accessories, ranging from stunning handbags and jewellery to beautiful homeware. Aimed at the luxury end of the market, Danaqa works with entrepreneurs from countries in the developing world, such as Ethiopia, Somalia, Nepal and
by Claire Belle Lewis
Rwanda, where all manufacturing is carried out locally by residents, who are paid fair wages and who work in comfortable conditions. This inspiring concept means that the items created are not only high-end, but S&E right down to the production chain; from the stunning boxes in which the goods are presented (created from recycled elephant dung!), to the employment of Ethiopian website designers. Danaqa has a “no fast fashion” policy, so suppliers are not pressurised into delivering to unrealistic timescales. SIX 24
The AW11 collection focuses on hand-woven natural fabrics, soft leathers, locally-sourced metals and bold colour palettes unique to the brand’s environment. Favourites include the Goat Skin/Kitenge Lined MultiPurpose Day Bag; £180, the Leather Clutch with leather flower decorations; £40 and the Wide Embroidered Bead and Leather Belt; £95. Danaqa has just launched its very first shop in London. You can find them at 282 Westbound Park Road, Notting Hill, London, W11. www.danaqa.com
by Claire Belle Lewis
Beautiful jewellery line Sägen
has become a firm favourite at SIX HQ. The brand’s designer, Elin creates unique and stylish pieces of contemporary jewellery from discarded china and porcelain, making each piece exclusive and supremely special. Elin was inspired to use old porcelain pieces because; “They remind me of Sunday dinners at my grandmother’s house”. Fittingly, the opening line of Sägen’s website is: ‘welcome to my world of old crockery, laughter, romance and nostalgia’. The name Sägen means; an old
saga, which perfectly epitomises the brands philosophy to create hand-made, wistful yet timeless jewellery, which will last a lifetime. This sweet and loving concept makes the jewellery even more covetable, giving the feeling of a simpler time gone by. From her studio in Malmö, Elin collects and recycles porcelain plates and china. The collection is split into two distinct looks; 1950s and 1960s graphic patterns in vibrant colours from classic Swedish and Scandinavian porcelain, and “Duchess Garden” which is kitsch and an indulgent SIX 25
Sägen
feast of pretty birds and sweet roses. The designers’ aim is always to make something new out of something old. First exhibited at London Fashion Week’s Estethica exhibition in 2010, Sägen’s unique and quirky styles have generated a loyal following, and the brand continues to grow and earn new fans along the way.
www.sagensweden.com
on the radar
Knock on the Door Introducing a fashion company Week in 2009 and 2010 and with a revolutionary concept. Knock on the Door headhunts emerging designers, often graduates, and commission them to develop a capsule collection exclusively for Knock on the Door, who then produce the collection using sustainable fabrics and UK manufacturers, while the range is sold under the designer’s name. This concept is unique to Knock on the Door, and allows talented designers to launch their careers without incurring start up costs - a necessity for many new designers. Previous designers were scouted from Graduate Fashion
by Claire Belle Lewis
ly launched on ASOS Marketsince their collections have been place, which provides a further exhibited at fashion trade shows, platform for them to showcase and are stocked in boutiques their designers and spread the across Europe. Knock on the message of eco-fashion to a Door provides a priceless plat- global audience. The brand goal form for these young designers is to build a hub of new designto showcase their designs, while ers, all of which will have some injecting a hit of style and cre- ethical element, either in the way ativity into the ethical and sus- the collection is produced and/or tainable fashion market. the fabric which is used. Knock They have also introduced their on the Door are looking for new own brand Knock Knock, which designers to submit their appliprovides a selection of stylish cations, so if you are a fashion staples; simple versatile pieces designer with an S&E mission, produced by upcycling end-of- visit the website for more inforroll fabric sourced from local mation. factories. Knock on the Door have recent- www.knockonthedooronline.com SIX 26
Imagine Fashion Everyone loves an amaz- Deeny
by Claire Belle Lewis
writes a weekly blog ing new discovery, and Imagine (one of his latest interviews is Fashion is just that; a new inter- with Giorgio Armani), and arts active digital luxury destination. and culture contributors Casey Imagine Fashion redefines the Spooner and Adam Dugas proway the consumer engages with duce exclusive film content. curated content online and on Founder Gordon explains, mobile, by combining fashion, “Imagine Fashion will set a new beauty, music, art and commerce. benchmark where global luxury The platform features the work of brands can have a true home in celebrated creatives from around the digital world, where they can the world alongside outstanding engage the audience in an editoemerging talent. rial environment on their own Founded and created by New terms”. York-based Fashion Editor Am- We love the fashion films: a livber Gordon, Imagine Fashion fea- ing and interactive high fashion tures the work of prestigious and shoot, evocative and thought respected industry insiders; Peri- provoking. Better still, you can patetic Fashionista Godfrey instantly purchase everything SIX 27
you see or hear at the click of your mouse. This revolutionary concept reimagines the idea of window shopping, offering customers a first look at the best dressed windows from around the world, and the opportunity to virtually view and purchase clothing, accessories, jewellery, beauty products and more! Designed and defined as a monthly publication, tailormade for the digital environment, Imagine Fashion is definitely a concept and website that SIX can get behind. www.imaginefashion.com
on the radar Wandering down the charming leafy road
of Søndregate, in Oslo’s hip neighbourhood of Grünerløkka, there was no mistaking funky tapas bar Delicatessen. A buzz of activity, and obviously the place to be, crowds often spill onto the street, smoking cigarettes and drinking Weissbier. With seats apparently sourced from a real English church, big wooden tables are laid out beneath a striking mural by artist Benjamin Bergman. Food is well worth the wait, tr y the huge smorgasbord of tapas: marinated tiger prawns in chilli and garlic, delicious grilled Nor weg i an salmon, asp aragus
Delicatessen, Oslo by Laura Edgecumbe-Ansdell
in lemon oil and homemade mushroom sausage with caramelised onion. A fusion of Spanish dishes with locally sourced Norwegian ingredients, the combination is delicious; and the Ribeira del Duero from the extensive Spanish wine list will compliment any meal perfectly. Delicatessen opened its doors for the first time in September 1999, with ambitions to create an informal setting where everyone should feel at home and where one could eat quality food at reasonable prices. Norway is an expensive country, but as value for money goes this is a gem and certainly many locals seemed to treat it as their home-from-home. Søndregate 8, 0550 Oslo. +47 22 71 45 46 www.delicatessen.no
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SIX 29
ART
NAJA conradhansen by Kate Stanbury
Her illustrations may be dominated by strong black lines, but dull they are not. Copenhagen-born designer and illustrator Naja Conrad-Hansen employs her dark colour palette to great effect, creating striking contrasts and images that exude character and vivacity. SIX 30
“inspiration is not static, but forever changing” With an artist as her mother and a graphic designer as her grandfather, Conrad-Hansen was born into an incredibly artistic family. When asked whether her family influenced her choice of career, she jests that she was force-fed turpentine and oil colours as a child. But the truth is, although Conrad-Hansen was supplied with endless amounts of wonderful paints and canvases, the decision to pursue a career in illustration was entirely her own.Now the successful independent artist behind MEANNORTH, she lives and works in Copenhagen, but, since her birth, she has lived in many parts of the world, from Greece to Egypt. However, it was in Berlin where she first started to move away from the playful experimentation of her youth and began to paint ‘for real’. Her extensive travels have led to her fluency in Danish, Finnish, German and English, but, she adds to these another language: illustration. Conrad-Hansen considers her artistic creativity to be a way of communicating, on an intuitive and emotional level, but without the rules and restrictions of a conventional language; immersing herself in design and illustration gives her the freedom to express herself in a way that only she dictates. She admits that
the situation is very different when working with clients, describing her role as more of a visual translator, but nevertheless she is able to use her own unique and expressive visual language to translate their ideas. From distorted faces to horse-riding monkeys, Conrad-Hansen’s images are teeming with original and quirky details. Her impactful female figures ooze attitude and personality. The artist conjures a life for each of her characters, and uses pencil, ink, feather pen, watercolour and oils to articulate their stories. Her illustrations are stimulating, striking and inspiring; yet Conrad-Hansen struggles to define exactly what inspires her. The inspiration for her colour palette comes from a variety of sources, from experimenting on paper to objects that she finds beautiful or ugly. To Naja Conrad-Hansen, inspiration is not static, but forever changing. In fact, change is extremely important to the artist. If you ask her to specify her career highlight, she will always name her latest work; what she considers to be her greatest achievement changes as her career progresses. The work that she has just completed for Louis Vuitton is the highlight of her career – for now. But, if you ask her in a few months, who knows what it may be. §
SIX 31
www.lostpropertyoflondon.com
m
ZARA MARTIN PHOTOGRAPHER Fiona Garden STYLIST Victoria Sekrier STYLIST'S ASSISTANT Jelizaveta Jugolainen HAIR/MAKE UP Oscar Alexander
Dress AQUA Shoes KAT MACONIE Ring, Bangle MERLE O'GRADY Locket DANNIJO Ring MATINA AMANITA
A TV presenter, model and DJ, Zara is also currently a correspondent for Nylon TV. Her career really kicked off after a brief stint on MTV UK, after which Zara quickly got picked up by Al Gore’s Emmy award-winning independent TV network Current TV. She lived between London and LA for nearly two years, presenting Zara’s Show, while still contributing to MTV Iggy. During that time she interviewed international names including Jennifer Lopez and Matthew Williamson. Dubbed as one of Grazia magazine’s ‘Ones to Watch’, Zara Martin gets her extraordinary looks from an Indian, Italian and British heritage. As a new age philanthropist, Zara is one of the ambassadors for The Elephant Family. She uses her creative flair to help raise awareness for the charity, which is dedicated to help save the Asian elephant. Zara hosted the SIX ethical fashion party during London Fashion Week in September, and here we catch up with her to get her word on Scandinavian designers, ethical fashion and (of course) where to get the best vintage. Left and Right: Dress SUNO Leather Jacket DAY BIRGER ET MIKKELSEN Rings by MATINA AMANITA, DAISY, MADE Bracelets by MADE, BEXROX, DANNIJO
Center: Bralette ZARA’S OWN Leather Jacket DAY BIRGER ET MIKKELSEN Necklace, Cuff MERLE O’GRADY
SIX 35
Who are your icons? Morticia Addams and Daphne Guinness. I’ve surrendered to the fact that I’ ll probably look like Cruella Deville when I’m older, and I’m okay with that. Do you have any Scandinavian designers in your wardrobe? YES. Peter Jensen, Acne, Gestuz, Carin Wester, Anne-Sophie Back, Malene Birger, Bruuns Bazaar, Noir... Love a Scandinavian designer apparently. What's your current favourite item in your wardrobe? Oh, the pressure! Probably an antique serpent ring my mum gave me. Any ethical designers you've taken notice of lately? Some friends of mine have just started an amazing brand called Muzungu Sisters - ethically sourced, handmade clothing and accessories created by artisans all over the globe. Other than that, I always look towards the British Fashion Council initiative, Estethica, for really exciting new designers working in a sustainable way. Thanks to them, I discovered Charini, a GREAT underwear brand. I also love myflashtrash.com that features some beautiful jewellery designers. Oh, and Opening Ceremony are now stocking the amazing swimwear line, Bantu.
This page: Dress YONG Bangles MADE Shoes KAT MACONIE Opposite page:
Dress EDUN Boots ZARA’S OWN Ring EREMETT Bracelets, Arm Cuff, Ring MADE Bracelet BEXROX
You've met, interviewed and know many designers personally - in your opinion, has the increasing consumer interest in ethical fashion affected the status quo in established fashion circles? With regards to the environment, I think it has almost become ‘the fashion’ to be an eco-friendly brand, but on a broader spectrum, I think there is a lot of heat on design houses and manufacturers now to produce their clothes in an ethical way after various sweatshop scandals. People are so much more socially conscious than they used to be so it will (I hope) affect their choices of where to shop/what to buy. Why would anyone spend £2,000 on a handbag with the knowledge that the person who made it suffered inhumane working conditions?
SIX 36
Do you have any vintage items? Where have you found the best vintage? Lots! I’ve spent a good amount of time in LA for work – they have the best vintage shops in the world. I found this giant warehouse store that was bursting with cast-offs from the wardrobe departments of all the movie studios, I was too overwhelmed to buy anything. ERROR. In London, I find the best vintage at Alfie's Antique Market on Church Street, the Battersea Vintage Fair and my secret store (not a secret anymore) in Primrose Hill called Shikasuki. Do you have any ethical campaigners whom you admire or who make you want to do better? I’ve worked for Al Gore (when I was presenting on Current TV) so have an affection towards him and his infallible passion for environmental awareness. I’ve also had the pleasure of working with a couple of other campaigners recently who are seriously inspiring and have blown me away with their commitment to their causes: Mark Shand, trustee of Elephant Family, and world renowned photographer Candice, founder of the charity Fresh2o, who recently shot me underwater for their campaign. What can we expect from Zara Martin in the upcoming year? Ooooh well, lots I hope! I’m doing a short film for one of my favourite shoe brands Mechante of London, some TV stuff hopefully and I have a very exciting collaboration with an ethical brand coming out next year. I’ll keep you posted! §
SIX fashion
nordic heat
P. 106
icy accessories to keep you hot all winter now she wears the trousers in the family
man for woman P. 88
SIX 38
c knitfit P. 98
a madness of layers and riotous color knits
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FASHION editor’s notes
Victoria Sekrier
More glitter? I say‘rubbish!’ Everyone has those staple pieces in their wardrobe that can always be relied upon when you wake up 15 minutes before you have to run out of the door. I appreciate flamboyance but I don’t like it on a daily basis, it makes life complicated. I like things in life to be simple and comfortable. People generally don’t need a lot of stuff; society is totally brain washed by consumerism and how our lives would be so much happier if we would just add more glitter. I say it’s rubbish. I say look at Calvin Klein. He is the pioneer of minimalism. Renowned for his controversial aesthetics, he astonished and appalled the general public back in the 80s with his excessively sexual ad campaigns. Later came Helmut Lang, who kept it simple,
kept it cool. The whole world was fascinated by his dark, moody tailoring. Then there was Margiela, his designs were minimal but innovative. He kept artistic people excited and tasteless people inspired. There are two ways of doing minimalism correctly: either keep it neutral and dark-shaded, or colour tone it. Focus on tailored and structured pieces. Keep the look controlled but exciting by adding asymmetrical detailing and solid shape jewellery. Add leather if you are feeling kinky. Simplicity is the key to success. It’s the key to acceptance in any cliques of society. It’s okay to be boring, it’s okay to blend in. As long as you are wearing a made-to-measure one-off blazer.
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Maria Nilsdotter Rennaissance Life
DAY Birger et Mikkelsen
Wackerhaus
Nina Jarebrink
OBSCUR
S’NOB
Piet Breinholm Adam Andrascik Anna Hernandez
C by Carin Wester
BJORG Louise Amstrup Finks
TBA
Won Hundred SIX 41
B u y a pa i r , g i v e a pa i r
www.warbyparker.com B u y a pa i r , g i v e a pa i r
www.crumpetengland.com
FASHION
SIX 44
loves...
Photo by Malcolm Campbell
BjØrg creates mesmerising one-of-a-kind jewellery that is widely recognised for its dark individuality and playful aesthetic. Inspired by the Garden of Eden, the AW11 collection explores BjØrg’s signature themes of temptation and decay, evident in a variety of compelling unisex pieces that fuse traditional craftsmanship and mythology wth modernity. Displaying a love of the macabre, pendants, rings and bracelets feature everything from cut-out letters, embossed type and engraved poetry, to preserved beetles, metal casts of hearts and bird heads as well as the ubiquitous skull and crossbones. SIX’s favourite piece is a necklace of a skeleton hand holding a crystal, representing clarity and the natural progress of life. Earlier this year the Swedish brand collaborated with Urban Outfitters, creating a chic and affordable capsule collection that looks set to fly off the shelves again this season. Bjørg X UO necklace, £98 www.bjorgshop.com
on the
CELTIC side by Jess Latapie
Move over UGG Australia/New Zealand/USA (do we even know who’s won that battle yet?), and step aside for the originals, the home grown Celtic Sheepskin. You may not live in Scandinavia but, with annual snowfall rising by the year, a warm winter wardrobe should be high on the agenda. SIX 46
N
ot only have the Newquay based, Celtic Sheepskin conjured up some gorgeous ensembles for their AW11 collection, they also take credit for being a recognised S&E business as a result of the fine-tuned processes used throughout sourcing and production. Not only known for their sheepskin creations, Celtic prides itself on using 100%
Their range of ‘all things cosy’ s t re t c h e s mu c h f u r t h e r, w i t h AW 1 1 a d d i t i o n s i n c l u d i n g delightful moccasin-style slippers, sheepskin gloves and even jumper dresses.
natural yarns and fabrics across their entire range, ensuring only the best in comfort and style. At the heart of the collection are the winter boots, available in a variety of colours and styles to suit many a fashion fix. Prices start from £108. When the need arises to brave the outdoors it has to be said that the Toscana range of coats and jackets are a force to be reckoned with. Made from 100% Toscana sheepskin and wonderfully c r a f te d to accen t u a t e t h e f e m in in e phys i q ue t h e se b e a u tie s have seriously caught our attention!
A SIX favourite has got to be the lacy over the knee numbers (£30 per pair). Made from 100% Merino wool, they’ll be sure to keep you snug when you kick off your boots (or heels!) by the fire.
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S&E*
S scandi
Nordic countries boast a wealth of innovative designers who aren’t afraid to be extremely edgy, reflecting the typical introvertness of a northern character, at the same time earning a worldwide reputation for their minimalistic styles and clean lines. It is probably the only part of the world where ‘wild’ and ‘minimal’ come together in perfect synergy.
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* Sinavia &E Oswald Helgason
*sustainable& ethical fashion
S&E*
iceland* &finland* Lumi
by Salha Jemaiel
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Rebekka Jönsdöttir is the founder and head designer of Icelandic label Rey. Representing Rebekka’s home city Reyjavik and also her own name, Rey’s founder graduated with a major in Fashion Design in 2008 from the Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising in Los Angeles. Founded in spring 2009, Jönsdöttir’s S&E label debuted with a small collection of hand-knitted pieces mainly made from the finest Icelandic wool. Fast forward two years and Rebekka has shown three autumn collections, featuring heavy fabrics in trademark black, dark grey and deep purple. With the inspiration for Rey coming from the dark landscape of Iceland itself, Rebekka also seeks inspiration in the fabrics and yarns themselves, enabling her designs to grow organically.
Rey
*
Whilst not officially a Scandinavian brand themselves, a design duo that simply had to be included are Kresse Wesling and James Elvis who work with award-winning artists and brands to produce chic accessories from waste, with one of their most revered collaborations helping to launch Scandinavian accessories brand Issi. Encouraging projects by female entrepreneurs, Elvis & Kresse’s signature products are created from decommissioned British Fire Brigade hoses destined for landfill. In fact, all raw materials used in their eponymous collections are reclaimed from postconsumer industrial waste. Collecting their material from across the UK, admirably 50% of all profits go to charities working to improve waste streams. With S&E values integral to the core of the brand, packaging is made from waste parachute silk and office furniture textiles, whilst swing tags are made from old coffee sacks. Taking their no waste policy to extremes Elvis & Kresse also quirkily use Air Traffic Control flight strips to make their business cards, inspiring a legion of young entrepreneurs in their wake!
Elvis & Kresse SIX 51
S&E iceland & finland* Lumi
Scandinavia’s Lumi Accessories is an innovative company which was founded in New York in 2000 by design duo Sanna Kantola and Bruno Beaugrand. Keeping things simple the design brand debuted with a capsule range of white floppy hats and handbags, before expanding theit range to include clutches, purses, handbags and wallets. Representing the strongest of sustainable values, Lumi Accessories exclusively use ecological materials and S&E manufacturing methods, with each item being made from carefully selected materials such as the finest in vegetable-tanned leather. Find Lumi Accessories in over 25 countries.
MoiMoibarcelona
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‘Clean Scandinavian and colourful Spanish’, is how Raquel Alonso Miranda, the founder and designer of MoiMoibarcelona, describes her accessories brand. Raquel graduated as a master of arts in her hometown Vigo, Spain. Her interest in Scandinavian functional design started when she spent a year as an exchange student in Middle Finland, studying clothing and textile design. Founding her label back in her homeland, Raquel eventually came back to Finland as a design intern for IVANAhelsinki and soon after opened her studio and shop in the heart of Helsinki. All MoiMoibarcelona products are S&E: bags are manufactured by small companies mostly based in Finland, with all fabrics handprinted and jewellery hand-made.
Ostwald Helgason is a UK-based fashion brand founded in 2008 by German-born Susanne Ostwald and Iceland-born Ingvar Helgason. Before meeting, Susanne graduated with MA in Fashion Design from the art college Burg Giebichenstein in Halle while Ingvar worked as a tailor in Iceland before studying Fashion Management at Central St Martins in London. The design duo’s inspiration comes from fine art, nature and new technology resulting in perfectly cut garments, which never fail to flatter. Ostwald Helgason creates modern and effortless daywear, eveningwear and accessories, which are made from organic materials such as Icelandic wool, satin and cotton. Raising the profile for S&E designers the world over, their unique garments have been seen on many international confident, fashion-forward women such as Rihanna, Daphne Guinness, and ChloÍ Sevigny.
Oswald Helgason
Minna
With no formal training in fashion design, Minna Hepburn has had an exceptionally successful career in the field of fashion thus far, launching her eponymous label at London Fashion Week. Her first collection entitled, SE1 was produced in Asia, and created while she was traveling. After five months designing in Vietnam, Minna brought her SE1 collection to London and got it straight onto the racks at high-street giant Topshop. Taking inspiration from many places; books (of an interior design persuasion in particular), lace and antique markets, Minna is a rare breed of self-taught designer, often refrencing silhouettes of by-gone eras in her charming and ultra-feminine designs. SIX 53
S&E* Barbara Ă Gongini
norway* & denmark* by Tyrone Farley and Rachael Oku
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Nina Skarra is a couture designer who uses 100% biodegradable and S&E materials, and is highly focused on ‘empowering others’ through their use. Beginning her career as an illustrator and graphic designer, Skarra, a native of Norway, was destined for a creative career, seeing her embark on TV production, film and advertising roles in New York and London, before starting her eponymous fashion couture brand. Skarra’s passion for fashion is seen not only in the craftsmanship and simplicity of her designs, but also in her charge towards the inclusion of sustainable responsibility in th e e vo l v i n g wor ld of fashion. Skarra uses silk, wool, bamboo, soya, ethical leather and organic cotton throughout her collections. However, it is the transparency and focus on development of green and sustainable design that drives the vision of Nina Skarra’s global fashion ambition.
Vertical lines and shapes that flow as organic as the fabrics used in Nina Skarra’s AW11 collection are stunningly refined and beautiful. One of her designs, a long sleeved white knit seems as raw as the environment that the fibres were extracted from, hand-moulded to fit the body. A black sheer dress is a flurry of flowing fabric, while a vertical ruffled dress and a panelled petal-like dress are indicative of the shapes of nature. It is these shapes deftly recreated with a superior knowledge of fabric which Skarra has perfected, discovering her trademark signature of refinement and craftsmanship along the way. www.ninaskarra.com/
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S&E norway&denmark*
Nina Einarsen and Iselin Strømsvåg are the jewellery loving artists that created Dreams of Norway. Jewellery design duo Einarsen and Strømsvåg use Swarovski crystals, feathers, wood, horn, and leather to create sought after one-of-a-kind pieces. The dream of their well-known eponymous brand began as a hobby, seeing Iselin copy a pair of very expensive earrings that she saw and loved. Having met while Nina and Iselin were working at a fashion boutique in Trondheim, it wasn’t long before they began making jewellery for their friends.
Kristofer Kongshaug is a Norwegian designer who has worked for well-known fashion brands such as Givenchy and Anne Valerie Hash since beginning his career at the tender age of 16. His vision for every collection is for each look to be unique on its own, believing that in today’s fashion world people want to ‘express something more than the mass-suggestion’. A designer who has always used fabrics of a biodegradable and sustainable nature, Konshaug believes that ‘sustainable materials will be the future of fashion’.
Inspired by Norwegian nature, the collections tread a fine line between femininity and masculinity, utilising quartz crystals and other natural elements such as pyrite and agate, set atop imitation branches moulded from silver and gold.
Konshaug’s AW11 collection is what can only be described as ‘comfortable tailored, symmetrical design’. One of the most eyecatching garments is a pair of dropped waist and crotch trousers that are held up by just one button. The combination of luxurious fabrics enhanced with an intense attention to detail come together perfectly in key garments which include a variety of tailored high collar jackets, displaying parallels between military uniform and Nordic fashion. The mood of the collection is set by the direct and indirect use of blacks and greys (Konshaug’s signature), punctuated by splashes of mustard yellow, the colour of the season.
www.dreamsofnorway.com
kristoferkongshaug.com SIX 56
Graduating in 1996 from one of Denmark’s premier fashion institutes, Barbara í Gongini is a fashion designer whose work is a constant struggle between minimalism and complexity, pushing the envelope and changing the face of androgyny. Often described as an ‘avant-goth’, upon graduating Gongini founded her eponymous brand with the aim of creating a Nordic inspired collection that integrates a conceptual approach, where shape, form and aesthetics underpin the integrity of the designs. Now with two collections; the highly experimental Main Line and the slightly less radical Black Line, both ranges are created in collaboration with a plethora of groundbreaking photographers, filmmakers and musicians, continually challenging the boundaries between fashion and art. With elements from Japanese fashion evident throughout her work, Gongini starts any garment by working with a square form, creating a silhouette where sharp edges and corners gradually disappear giving way to softer angles afforded by superior draping. Focusing on two-dimensional wearability for AW11, fabrics are as environmentallyfriendly as they come, with organic cotton and wool utilised to maximum effect, while lamb leather, goat skin and fur as bi-products of farming are put to striking use, seeing Gongini nominated for the Danish Fashion Award Committee’s 2010 Ethical Award. .
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www.barbaraigongini.dk/
S&E norway&denmark* Established in 2005, Danish brand Noir is based on a vision of making meaningful and desirable consumption possible for the modern, conscious fashion consumer. Epitomising graceful sophistication with a distinctive contemporary edge, the AW11 collection displays the brand’s signature love of sculptural tailoring, combined with quality fabrics and slender silhouettes to create a highly wearable and classic collection. In 2008, the diffusion line Bllack Noir was established and if that wasn’t enough to keep the CEO (Sysser Philipson) and the head designer (Tilde Bjerregaard) busy, Noir’s sister company Illumniati II is a co-initiator and partner in an ongoing endeavour to help the development of fair-trade and organic cotton in Uganda, Africa, seeing Noir become a signatory to the UN Global Compact. Newly relaunched for the upcoming SS12 season, we will soon see Noir and Bllack Noir merge into one brand, with lots of exciting collaborations planned for future seasons. If one thing is for sure, expect lots more black!
Noir
www.noir.dk
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S&E norway&denmark* Wackerhaus was founded in 2003 by the young Danish designer Trine Wackerhausen. The Wackerhaus look combines a sharp tailored silhouette with lightweight materials and carefully placed ruffles, deftly playing upon the theme of contrasts, evident in each signature collection.
Entitled ‘Wonders in Winterland’ Wackerhaus’ AW11 collection successfully channels themes of opulence and fragility, looking particularly at the lines of cuts and fragmentation. Inspired by icicles, crystals and glacial sleet, the collection exudes a dangerous and cool innocence evident in the fierce graphic detailing and sharp pleats, which are fused with coated shiny sheers for maximum effect. Clearly inspired by its Danish origins, Wackerhau’s AW11 offering featuring a dazzling array of cocktail dresses, emblematic trousers, coats and dress jackets, the clean fabrics and superior detailing allow for an interactive play between soft fabrics, graphic lines and structured fur inspired patterns. A somewhat avant-garde offering, the colour palette and fabric juxtaposition is clean and simple with discreet dull blue denims, sand washed silky tencel in grey and renegade nubuck leathers each being lifted by subtle nuances of pinky browns and grey blues. www.wackerhaus.dk SIX 60
Wackerhaus SIX 61
S&E*
sweden* Camilla Norrback by Helena Lundberg
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You could say that the fast-fashion business is the direct opposite to what jewellery designer Maria Nilsdotter stands for. For Maria it is more important that her necklaces, earrings and bracelets are well made: “My jewellery is made to be sustainable, that is a very central part of my brand image”. Metals, stones and pearls are the main ingredients in her products, which Maria describes as “wearable art with a playful touch”. The production is located in Sweden and England, where working conditions are easier to control and transportation is not too far, lowering the environmental impact of her eponymous brand further. Maria Nilsdotter takes a lot of inspiration from anatomy, flora and fauna. Her claw ring has reached a nearly iconic status among Stockholm’s fashion crowd, who cannot wait for her to expand her brand. However, they may be waiting a while as Maria likes to keep her collections timeless, and the quantities small. By melting down and reworking leftover metals, the designer tries to reuse as much material as possible. Welcoming the growing demand of better conditions within the mining industry and the extended control of where materials originate from, Maria says; “It’s a hot topic in the gold, diamond and silver industry. I am very interested in the development and keep myself informed at all stages.”
Maria Nilsdotter
Hernández-Cornet is predicted to be the next big thing among Swedish designer brands. With keywords such as ‘purity’ and ‘simplicity with a twist’, she is skeptical to the fast flow within the fashion business. “I would rather see that consumers invest in fewer items of better quality instead of mass consuming fashion”, says the designer. The consideration of a garment’s lifecycle reflects her design process. Hernández-Cornet is all about small scale, exclusive collections where every piece has to be sustainable, both qualitatively and aesthetically. As far as it is possible, without compromising on function and looks, Ana has chosen to use organic and sustainable materials – and not only for her own good conscious, convinced that recycled and sustainable materials add a sales value to the product. “The awareness of the customers has come a long way, and I believe that most people are willing to pay a bit more for quality and sustainability today”. Here’s hoping Ana Hernández is right. SIX 63
Hernández-Cornet
S&E sweden*
It all began with a course in Human Rights Law. Kajsa Cappelen Holst and Paula Kermfors met in the classroom and after some years of working with development related questions, they decided to start Righteous Fashion in 2004. The duo wanted to create a brand where design, fairness and environment were equally important.
Filippa K For the design team of Filippa K, it has always been important to create products of which they can be proud. The number of Filippa K garments made of organic cotton is steadily growing each season, and when it comes to man-made materials Filippa K prefers to use cellulose fibres treated in an environmentally closed process that reuses water and chemicals. All of the company’s offices use green energy, all company cars are eco-friendly and in Stockholm the employees are provided with bicycles. As a reference to her own quote that ‘Filippa K garments should be timeless and sustainable enough to be able to be used from one generation to the next’, Filippa Knutsson in 2008 came up with the idea of opening a second-hand boutique in Stockholm. Providing a location where customers can buy, sell and trade old Filippa K pieces turned out to be a successful concept that is still running to this day. “The environmental aspect is very complex within the textile industry. The second-hand boutique goes beyond the production and is a form of responsibility for the product’s entire life cycle”.
After travelling to the production countries and witnessing how the poor working conditions affected people and their habitat first hand, a sustainable brand was the only way to go. “As a company, it is our obligation”, says Kajsa Cappelen Holst.
Righteous Fashion With the motto ‘to never compromise’, they have created a high quality fashion brand that motivates its customers to do the same: to take action while dressing up. They have chosen to work with natural materials like cashmere, soybean and bamboo from Nepal, with manufacture taking place in Mauritius where 25% of the employees are handicapped. Since the awareness came into their minds before the design, Kajsa and Paula are not afraid to look beyond the fashion aspect of their business. SIX 64
Odd Molly was a girl who used to hang around with the skateboarding elite in California back in the 80s. Unlike the other girls, Molly did not put up any fake front or fuss to try to impress the guys. She did her own thing – and got all the attention, by staying true to herself. The story of Molly is the pillar of Karin Jimfelt-Ghatan and Per Holknekt’s designer label. Together with inspiration from words such as ‘love’, ‘courage’ and ‘integrity’, their mission is not only to make women look great, but also to make them feel great. A glance at their garment is enough to understand how. The AW11 collection is filled with knitted cardigans and casual tunics, perfectly suited for a Sunday morning in the countryside. For Odd Molly it is important to be a good world citizen, so in 2009 the company became a member of the Fair Wear Foundation, which works to improve the working conditions in the textile industry. But Odd Molly does not only care about her colleagues. The company is continuously looking for new ways to improve, and the creation of a bed linen collection together with Danish supermodel Helena Christensen to benefit the Chernobyl Children’s Project is just one of them.
Odd Molly
Camilla Norrback For Camilla Norrback, ethical and sustainable fashion is something natural. So natural that she trademarked the expression ‘ecoluxury’ – a word that concludes everything that her eponymous brand stands for. “I came up with the idea of ‘ecoluxury’ in 2005. There were so many delusions about organic materials back then, and I wanted to reach out and talk about working with organic materials, that it has nothing to do with the fashion, it is about how to run a business”, says the designer. For as long as she can remember, Camilla has had a genuine interest in environmental issues, equality and justice. So when the Finland-Swede designer
founded her own label in 1999 there was no surprise she chose to include an environmental conscience in the company’s mission. Since then, Camilla Norrback has grown into a true pioneer within ethical fashion circles, working with organic materials for almost a decade. She wants her customers to feel both beautiful and proud. “The benefit of working with organic materials, is that the garments become more comfortable, convenient and luxurious. When superficiality is replaced by intellectuality, trends by style and when high-end design is combined with a sustainable product, modern luxury is the result.”
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nicolebridger.com
FASHION
S
tella McCartney has proved beyond doubt that fashion can get by without leather. But as fetish fashion slinks off the catwalks and onto the highstreet this season, it seems high time we posed the question, is there such a thing as ethical leather? At the moment, no official organic or free-range accreditation exists for leather as it does for food. And of the 3,000 businesses certified to Global Organic Textile Standards worldwide, none provide leather – yet. This however, isn't to say that concerns about animal welfare and environmental damage via leather tanning aren't being addressed by some designers and stores. New Look's policy is only to use leather which exists as a by-product of the meat industry, never using skin from live skinning or boiling, or unnatural abortions, such as Karakul. Likewise, Marks & Spencer, is currently working alongside the BLC leather technology centre in Northampton to establish traceability guidelines and 'address animal welfare standards in leather production’, as part of its Plan A initiative to establish M&S as the world’s most sustainable major retailer by 2015. Like McCartney, Isobel Davies of Izzy Lane would never use leather in her products and thinks it’s time we, the consumers, approached the issue in the same way we do our food. "Using leather from an unknown source is potentially to support cruel farming systems. Calf skin is likely to come from calves which are reared for veal, which may mean they have been kept in veal crates, deprived of any freedom to even turn around and deprived of any contact with other animals. Your leather may have come from cows which have been kept in indoor systems, never grazing outside or breathing fresh air, perhaps then being transported long distances to be slaughtered.
“It's important to demand the origin of all animal skins and animal fibres and know what lives those animals live or have lived." Its materials need not be British for a product to qualify as 'British Made', meaning while veal crates are banned in the UK, that butter-soft calf leather British bag could still be the result of cruel processes. Ilona Ludewig-Mack owns London-based 'organic' leather provider, Natureally and says a clear line should be drawn. “Killing a calf is more like producing fur - it is done for the skin and the meat is the by-product, not the other way round as for my cattle hides. Yes, there are occasional calves that need to go, but these are the exception.” Just as it represents a concern for animal welfare, lack of traceability also means a product's tanning process may have been conducted in a country in which guidelines for reducing potential ecological damage don't exist. Sam Setter, of Leather International Magazine and specialist blog Limeblast, says, “It is totally useless for a shoe company to self-certify that they produce their shoes according to the required ecological standards, when they buy their leather from a factory that dumps its effluent in the nearest river and its raw fleshings and shavings into nearby land.” ECCO Leather is one company bucking this trend. ECCO Leather has built a water treatment facility next to its tannery to recycle all water, also using it to power around 60% of the factory's future energy usage. Keen to get involved with the facility, designer Rachel Freire teamed up with ECCO. "To invest in something like that is certainly not a profitable exercise, but intends to help set a standard for the industry and shows an awareness and longevity which can easily be lacking in all areas of industry today. It is rare for a company to want to hold itself accountable and that really made me interested in working more closely with ECCO."
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Marks and Spencer
hell for
leather by Ali Schofield
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Her AW11/12 collection features yak's nipples, usually a waste product discarded after the tanning process. Perversely beautiful, flower-like embellishments, the nipples held a deeper meaning for Freire, too. "I love the fact you cannot disconnect them from the source. They come from an animal. It is very easy to view leather in the same way you see a burger, it bears no resemblance to its source. This relationship between a living creature and a garment should not be taken for granted." Freire welcomes the possibility of an ethical accreditation for leather. "Choosing to work with such materials should have the same informed choice as fair-trade cotton and coffee or free range-eggs." SIX 70
Like Freire, James Hock chose recycled leather cuts for his collection, Kpixoos Kaabos, but says this wasn't necessarily an ethical point. "I think the choice was integral to the story of the collection which is very much in the spirit of huntersgatherers." He doesn't feel leather could ever hold an ethical accreditation. "Personally, I don't think 'ethical' can ever be associated with the leather industry… Perhaps ‘with great care and conscience’ would be a better choice of words." Organic textiles specialist, Georgina Thomas, of Soil Association Certification Limited thinks it could happen soon, though: "There is a real gap in the market for organic leather. Potentially consumers would be able to relate more directly and understand the benefits of organic leather better than with organic cotton, for example, where pesticide use and effects may not be as close to home as animal welfare standards." The leather industry has a distance to travel yet. But with designers like Freire demanding higher standards, and manufacturers like ECCO Leather and Natureally stepping up to the mark, all that remains for ethical leather to become as ubiquitous as organic meat is increased consumer demand. Natureally's Ludewig-Mack points out, “When it comes to leather production, the organic journey is just beginning”. §
Rachel Freire
§"I love the fact that you cannot disconnect them from the source. They come from an animal. It is very easy to view leather in the same way you see a burger, it bears no resemblance to its source. This relationship between a living creature and a garment should not be taken for granted."
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FASHION Tabernacle Twins consists of womenswear/knitwear designer Vibe Lundemark and womenswear designer Johanne Kappel Andersen. The newly established design duo Tabernacle Twins explores the limits between fashion, textiles and illustration. Tabernacle Twins’ collections capture a surreal wonderland filled with fictitious characters, quirky landscapes, fable creatures and random combinations. They do not disappoint: their latest collection is a kaleidoscope of colours, patterns and textures a visually stimulating collection that is sure to lift your mood. They have managed to encompass everything that is fun about fashion and have done so in a way that is sophisticated and appreciative. We love it and are sure you’ll love it too. www.tabernacletwins.com
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Tabernacle Twins
NOT JUST A LABEL (NJAL), is the world’s leading designer platform for showcasing and nurturing today’s pioneers in contemporary fashion. NJAL is a creative hub with a red carpet following setting trends and perpetuating innovation. With over 16 million hits per month, NJAL is an infinitely expanding destination devoted to facilitating growth in the fashion industry and propelling new designers into the limelight. SIX Magazine delves into this inspirational platform and has discovered six of NJAL’s favourite designers from Scandinavia.
not JUST a label by Chantelle Chirimuuta
Spread across the four corners of Nordic Europe these designers represent all things SIX Magazine supports: S&E fashion and not to also mention that their designs are an explosion of imagination and individualism that we love. SIX 73
not just a label
Feliperojasllanos S is a Londonbased menswear designer born in Chile and brought up in Sweden. Chosen by Not Just A Label as one of their ‘Top Ten Best Menswear Designers’ it’s no surprise that Filipes became one of our favourites as well. Filipes designs are a canvas of pure classic and chic keeping to the minimalistic form he has manage to encompass a feminine feel to his designs structured tailoring and fine lines are what makes his design unique and most definitely a men’s must have! www.rojasllanos.com
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Anja Merete Larsen is based in Copenhagen, Denmark. She studied at Kolding School of Design and graduated in 2010. In Anja’s ‘Prey’ collection, the prey hanging from, and strapped onto, the hunter’s body is interpreted into accessories. Her use of nature as a colour palette is truly sublime: a mix of hunting and camouflage gives a soft primitive feel to the collection that truly represents the collection’s beguiling theme. anjameretelarsen.wordpress.com
Vilsbøl de Arce Prisca & Pia are based in Copenhagen, Denmark. Since 2007 the designer duo, Vilsbøl de Arce has created avant-garde fashion with strong ties to art and performance. Their recent line ‘Skins’ is truly a perfect representation of themselves: a far out dreamland of embossed leather, transparent nets and textured linens that create a strong but natural look. The collection works with adaptable components, alternating fabrics and patented leathers in warm natural tones, creating a fluid yet strong nomadic look. www.vilsboldearce.com SIX 75
not just a label Veronica Vallenes is an awardwinning Nor wegian designer based in Copenhagen. Vallenes’ latest collections have garnered international recognition in international magazines such as Vogue, Dazed & Confused, Pop World, PIG Magazine, and Glamour, as well as coverage in high-end Danish and Norwegian publications. A subtle mix of contemporary and chic is what makes this designer distinguished and unashamedly talented. www.veronicabvallenes.com
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Siri Sveen Haaland is a 24-year-old Norwegianborn visionary designer specialising in menswear. Her designs are a mix of structured masculinity superbly contrasted with a range of fabrics and a dark muted colour palette truly defining the mood of the male psyche which is perfect for the stylish tomboy. Siri is currently working as a freelance designer in corporation with different Norwegian labels, she is head designer in the developing of a new Norwegian brand which will be available in 2012 (WWW.NORWEGIANRAT.NO). www.siri-sh.com
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ANNA KOSTUROVA www.annakosturova.com
esprit gostwyck merino
by Alina Raetsep
the spirit of the source
§”We are proud to be the first company to set such high standards for the quality and origin of the fibre we use ... but also to drive high levels in terms of animal care and sustainability” SIX 80
September saw Esprit unveil their limited edition capsule collection created in collaboration with Gostwyck farm in Australia. This is the first of Esprit's upcoming collaborations with smaller scale producers that will be created under the Esprit Limited Edition sub-brand concept - a platform for creative and engaging collaborations. Gostwyck has worked exclusively with Esprit to create the unique four-piece collection lovingly crafted from the ethically grown cashmere-like merino wool, resulting in everyday garments of premium quality and classic design that mirror the heritage and tradition of Gostwyck farm. The collection features four colorways and consists of a cowl-neck, a cable knit sweater, an essential button through cardigan and a stylish jumper dress; each individually crafted using Gostwyck Merino. The tactile cashmere feel of the wool ensures a beautiful fit and premium quality, made to last. At the heart of the project is Esprit's ongoing commitment to sustainability, as well as Gostwyck's focus on the welfare and happiness of their sheep. The wool's quality is achieved through a combination of breeding and science, which gives the fibre its elasticity and breathability. The result is a wool fibre so soft that it can easily be mistaken for cashmere. Teaming up with Gostwyck makes Esprit t h e fi r s t m a j o r re t a i l e r t o d e v e l o p a relationship with a merino wool producer that has environmental and sustainable practices as well as ethical animal treatment in the DNA of all their processes. And this is the kind of future we envision and aspire to - for small scale producers to be taken on board by globally established brands with the aim to create S&E collections and further promote the concept of ethical fashion on mass scale. ยง
www.henriettaludgate.com
introducing CAMILLA wellton by Thea Natalie
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Organic, architectural, futuristic; not words that you can easily imagine describing the same thing, however Camilla Wellton's eighth collection is hard to define. Structural and beautiful, strong lines in soft fabrics, and astrological ellipses all come together to create a truly attractive and unique offering. For Camilla, design and fit come first. Enhancing the female form and allowing a woman to express herself through her image is very important to Camilla and is a concept that supports her philosophy: create clothes that enhance your natural power, grace, beauty and elegance, love life by being true to the innermost self for the benefit of all beings, and, allow an awakening of the mind so that the wonders that lie inside us all may be expressed. The passion is evident when Camilla says ‘I wish to express elegant individuality with the whole form through my designs’. As a 10-year-old, Camilla rebelled against her parent’s clothing choices and began making her own outfits, whereby a love of design and self-expression was born at this young age. Since the 2009 launch of her eponymous brand, Camilla’s ranges have grown, as has the attention from press, consumers and fellow designers. Using organic fabrics brings great joy to Camilla, allowing her to create, develop and grow in harmony with the land.
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camilla wellton Nordic brands are fast becoming dominant in fashion with powerhouses like Acne, Cheap Monday and H&M proving that the Swedish aesthetic is popular the world over. When asked where her favourite place in the city is, Camilla tells of a tiny coffee house in Sodermalm, ‘It’s in the middle of a staircase, the owner is so charming and knows everyone by name, it’s such an inviting environment’. With background in mathematics, art, yoga and Sodermalm being the centre of the arts district, it philosophy gave her the courage to leave her original can only be imagined that the cafe emanates that career path in environmental sciences and to begin quintessential cool of all things Swedish. working on a project that would eventually become So what’s next for Camilla and her brand? The new her life’s work. Camilla explains c o l l e c t i o n s a r e r e a d y for boutiques and the her creative process as allowing creative process continues. Her love of slow fashion the forms to flow naturally withthat explodes seasonal out judgement. “When I was boundaries feels natural § I rely on my muse, my younger I used to draw abstract and transcends the over imagery and then develop it into subconscious and the unsimplified tradition of something beautiful, I think my following trends in fashion. known inside me ... I make process of pattern creation is She states, “In our daily similar. I rely on my muse, my sure I am in the right frame lives we are no longer subconscious and the unknown restricted by seasons, and I of mind for creating ... it’s a inside me to collect and store design in a way that allows impressions that allow me to give logical process, but one far you to dress for wherever designs a tangible shape. I make you may be go i ng, no t beyond words and time” sure I am in the right frame of necessarily where you are mind for creating and then begin now”. Camilla may not cutting, it’s a logical process, but follow seasonal trends, but one far beyond words and time”. is sure to be the one who Since winning the IKEA People’s Choice Fashion sets them for future fashion Award in 2010, Camilla has continued to grow her designers and consumers. brand, offering made-to-measure and eco-couture Camilla’s range is available online and at high-end lines. Inviting the wearer to invest in the creative boutiques across Europe. § process, whilst retaining the S&E values of the brand, is both innovative and smart in a world where ethics and fashion are on the world stage. Ethical fashion has come a long way from the days of hemp trousers, and Stockholm is a hotbed of creative S&E design. Based in Sodermalm, Camilla’s atelier is in exactly the www.camillawellton.com. right place to gain a strong presence in the market.
A
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FASHION
Opposite Page Trousers LOUISE AMSTRUP Shirt LINA OSTERMAN Jacket DAGMAR Waste Coat LINA OSTERMAN Shoes RAOUL Ring BJORG Bracelets BJORG This Page Jacket DENHAM Waist Coat DENHAM Shirt DIANA ORVING Trousers DENHAM Shoes RAOUL Ring BJORG Necklace BJORG
MODEL Mecia at Nevs STYLIST’S ASSISTANT: Maximilian Smith HAIR: Michael Jones MAKE-UP Natalie Piacun With gratitude to Sprueth Magers Gallery, London www.spruethmagers.com
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man s ’ world
Photography by Fiona Garden Styling by Victoria Sekrier
tailored masculinity with a feminine curve SIX 89
Jacket WONHUNDRED Trousers LINA OSTERMAN Collar LINA OSTERMAN
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Shirt LOUISE AMSTRUP Skirt LOUISE AMSTRUP Braces STYLIST’S OWN Socks PANTHERELLA Shoes RAOUL Black Light Fitting SERGE MOUILLE
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Dress YONG Shoes RAOUL Watch TRIWA Ring BJORG
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Dress Camilla Wellton Headpiece Worn With Love
Shirt EDUN Trousers TEATUM JONES Jacket TEATUM JONES Shoes RAOUL Hat LOUISE AMSTRUP Earrings MERLE O’GRADY
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Shirt LOUISE AMSTRUP Trousers LOUISE AMSTRUP Shoes ASOS FOR LOUISE AMSTRAP Necklace MERLE O'GRADY
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Jacket LINA OSTERMAN Shirt S’NOB Trousers YONG Shoes FINSK Belt STYLIST’S OWN Necklace MERLE O’GRADY Knuckle Duster Ring BJORG
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Cape FANNY + JESSY Shoes IRIS VAN HERPEN Barcelet MERLE O'GRADY Ring MERLE O'GRADY
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FASHION
Photography by Fiona Garden Styling by Victoria Sekrier Opposite page Blouse SUNO Dress SOPHIE HULME Cardigan LE MONT S’MICHEL at U.O. Socks URBAN OUTFITTERS Shoes KAT MACONIES This page Shirt EDUN Blouse YONG Skirt HERMIONE DE PAULA Tight HAPPY SOCKS Sock HAPPY SOCKS Earrings A ALICIA Beanie Hat MAISON SCOTCH Shoes DEENA & OZZY at U.O
HairMake OSCAR Up -ALEXANDER Natalie Piacun Make-Up TENEILLE SIRGIOVANNI Hair - Sharne Harrington Model ALI at SELECT ModelLisa Akesson @ Union Models Stylist’s Assistant CHRISTIANA PERDIOU SIX 98
mad scandia nordic Photography by Fiona Garden Styling by Victoria Sekrier
the quirky side of norse knit Bikini Top by Suno, Top by Joie, Jumper MM6 by Margela at Urban Outfitters Earrings by Dominic Jones, Headpiece by Lara Jensen SIX 99
Shirt WHYRED at U.O. Trouser SUNO Jacket WHYRED at U.O. Beanie Hat ECOTE’ at U.O. Socks PANTHERELLA Shoes SWEDISH HASBEENS
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Shirt JONATHAN SAUNDERS at U.O. Trousers SUNO Dress EMESHA Necklace A ALICIA Socks HAPPY SOCKS Shoes DEENA & OZZY at U.O.
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Shirt SUNO Dress HERMIONE DE PAULA Long Socks URBAN OUTFITTERS Socks HAPPY SOCKS Shoes KAT MACONIE
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Trouser SUNO Dress PETER JENSEN at U.O. Sweater HOUSE OF DAGMAR Gloves CECILIA HAMMARBORG Scarves WON HUNDRED Socks HAPPY SOCKS Shoes KAT MACONIE
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Blouse SUNO Dress YONG Cape EMESHA Socks SCOTT-NICHOL Shoes SWEDISH HASBEENS
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Turtleneck HERMIONE DE PAULA Sweater CARIN WESTER at U.O. Skirt HERMIONE DE PAULA Cardigan WON HUNDRED Beanie Hat HOUSE OF DAGMAR Scarves WON HUNDRED Socks LOWIE at U.O. Shoes KAT MACONIE
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FASHION
MODEL Nikki S at Nevs MAKEUP Holly Silius using Korres HAIR Bon Fan Zhang PROP STYLING Max Risk and Mikey Majik STYLIST ASSISTANT Olivia Rose Howes Hair assistant Shorta Fujimoto
OPPOSITE PAGE: White shorts RAOUL Bra Top CAMEO Gun metal chunky stone Ring MIQUELLA LONDON Pearl rings CLAUDIA PINK Bangle MERLE O’GRADY Choker MERLE O’GRADY Necklace LARA BOHINC AT HARVEY NICHOLS Belt- NINA JAREBRINK Earrings PETER LANG Bracelet CLAUDIA PINK THIS PAGE: Dress PHILIP ARMSTRONG Shoes BERNARD CHANDRAN Pearl earrings DOMINIQUE AURIENTIS BY LIZ MENDEZ AT LUCY IN DISGUISE Ring MERLE O'GRADY Bracelet MIQUELLA LONDON SIX 106
viking woman
power accessories for dark winter nights
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Photography and Styling by Sasha Rainbow
Pink dress ASHLEY ISHAM Necklace DUFFY Earrings LARA BOHINC AT HARVEY NICHOLS Bracelet J. MASKREY Ring CLAUDIA PINK Shoes RAOUL SIX 108
Shoes RAOUL Shirt RAOUL White trousers RAOUL Earrings ZOE COSTE FROM LIZ MENDEZ AT LUCY IN DISGUISE Necklace MIQUELLA LONDON Bracelets NINA JAREBRINK, MIQUELLA LONDON & BABETTE WASSERMAN Rings BABETTE WASSERMAN SIX 109
FASHION
INVESTMENT plan by Sarah Joynt
SIX S&E* pieces worth investing in.
the shoes
When buying a pair of statement shoes such as Finsk’s pony hair wooden-heeled wedges, you must consider a number of important factors. Beyond comfort and walk-ability, the materials in the shoe are a great indicator of how well they will weather the wear and tear of long-term use. The beauty of a wedged platform is its stability; you get all the height of a traditional heel without the worry of toppling over and you don’t have to worry about grinding your stiletto into a sharp point. The sustainable nature of the wooden heel paired with Finsk’s award-winning design makes this shoe a sure investment and a classic that you’ll wear season after season. FINSK Shoes, Price: £470 www.beyondthevalley.com SIX 110
A quality leather jacket is a musthave investment piece. This draped and zipper embellished version by Danish designer Barbara i Gongini pairs elements of practical function with undeniable style. The beauty of a jacket like this is that it is as chic with a pair of jeans and boots as it is with a floral dress. This is the type of jacket that not only lasts for years, but can also become an integral piece in the development of your signature look. Don’t be afraid to take risks with your investment pieces because they almost always pay off in style. BARBARA I GONGINI Leather Jacket Price: £750.00 www.sixtynineb.com
the jacket
PHOTOGRAPHER Martin Zahringer STYLIST Victoria Sekrier MODEL Alex Glenday at NEXT STYLIST'S ASSISTANT Jelizaveta Jugolainen HAIR Michael Jones MAKE UP Natalie Piacun Worn throughout: Dress Shirt EDUN Leather Trousers DAY Birger et Mikkelsen With gratitude to Kingsland Road Studio www.kingslandroadstudio.com
s
When buying investment knitwear it’s important to think of the seasons. A dress knit too heavily can limit the times of the year when you can wear it without overheating. This dress by Gudrun & Gudrun walks the fine line between a warm, layerable dress, and a lightweight knit that can be worn all year round. Pair this season-less dress with tights and a leather jacket for daytime or dress it up with statement jewellery and bright colored shoes for night; it ’s the ultimate day to night look. GUDRUN & GUDRUN Hand Knitted Mohair Dress: Price: £360.00 www.sixtynineb.com
the knit
s&e*
the bag
With the price of luxury bags climbing year after year, you have to approach your purchase like you would any financial investment. This leather backpack by designer Asger Juel Larsen, is equal parts utility and style. Its flat shape makes it the perfect choice for carrying an iPad or small laptop without bulk and it is large enough to avoid the dreaded mini-backpack look from the mid 90s. To ensure this investment lasts for years to come, purchase a good leather moisturizer and you’ll be handing this piece down to the next generation in mint condition. Asger Juel Larsen leather back pack, price available upon request. www.asgerjuellarsen.com SIX 113
the chain
A body chain may seem like an unlikely investment, but with an arsenal of basics, you need statement pieces to lift your wardrobe from simple to resplendent. This version, from Fannie Schiavoni, can be worn with everything from jeans and a t-shirt to a cocktail dress, and with its slight allusion to bondage, it fits perfectly with this season’s fetish trend. This is one accessory that won’t break with consistent wear so it’s guaranteed to become a wardrobe staple. FANNIE SCHIAVONI Body Harness: Price: £175 www.fannieschiavoni.com SIX 114
the dress
Every woman needs a go-to evening gown; something that you can have in your wardrobe to pull out and know you’ll make a statement, whilst feeling comfortable and confident. Most opt for a simple block colored dress, but choosing an original, well-designed dress such as this one by Louise Amstrup is a surprising and smart choice. An eccentric woman could pair it with a costume style bib necklace, or for the more demure, pair it with a cropped black jacket. You’re guaranteed to be noticed for all the right reasons and in spite of the dress’ geometric, textural print, it could easily be considered seasonless. Louise Amstrup Dress, price available upon request. www.louise-amstrup.com
REVIEW
ECO FASHION is the future by Magaly Fuentes-Sagan
Amana Image photo by Amarpaul Kalirai Leila Hafzi photo by Emile Ashley, Ashley Studio Both Noir Images photo by Marc Hom Sense Organics photo by Phillip Jeker Van Markoviec image photo by Magda Lipiejko
‘Eco Fashion’ by Sass Brown identifies and brings light to the many components of ethical and sustainable fashion, familiarizing readers with a gradual blend of ideas brought forth by philosophers, artists, designers, innovators and teachers in an effort to create things that are beautiful without causing further damage to our planet and all living things. The move to s u s t a i n a b i l i t y i n f a s h i o n i s t h e f u t u r e , bringing more considerations to the table than ever before. Diversity in markets, price points and expression through design have always been important factors of the fashion industry. Now add fairtrade, diversion of waste, organic materials, support of traditional craft and artisans, and much more. In addition to highlighting each of these components, ‘Eco Fashion’ features designers and brands that have already developed and introduced structurally and stylistically impressive designs, while putting ethical practices into place. Brown’s vision for the book was to shatter the myth that S&E design is basic, ugly or boring. She says, “I wanted to share the wonderful work being done by designers at a high level with a sophisticated aesthetic, an avant-garde appreciation, and a playful heart! There is so much good design out there on all levels of the market, and I felt it needed another champion. I also wanted to explore all the different expressions of ecology, not just restricting myself to ecological fabrics, but also incorporating recycled materials, slow design, fair-trade, artisanal and traditional methodology, and even new business models in my research.” SIX 116
Sass Brown is the Resident Director for the Fashion Institute of Technology’s study abroad program in Florence, Italy. Originally from London, UK, Brown established herself as a designer with her own signature collection selling in the UK and across C an ad a . W i t h a BA in Fa s h ion De s ig n from Ravensbourne College of Art and Design in London, Brown also has an MA in Global Fashion Management from FIT New York. As a researcher, writer and blogger, her area of expertise is S&E fashion, in all of its different expressions. Brown has published papers and spoken around the world on the topic of sustainable design, and has also worked and volunteered in women’s cooperatives in Latin America (particularly in Brazil’s largest favela, Rocinha), and taught workshops to manufacturers and fashion enterprises in Peru and China. Brown describes the work in Rocinha as the “watershed moment” in her career, as her focus turned towards S&E fashion. When asked ‘what do you see for the future of sustainable fashion?’, Sass replied; “I see more and more luxury brands working with artisanal groups as they seek authenticity. I see craft and artisanship becoming the new luxury. I see the diversification of eco fashion from the high street to the designer market and I see it becoming an expectation for all brands to participate in some way, shape or form.”
Brown is now working on her second book about S&E fashion; this one with an emphasis on designers working with recycled materials. She stresses that her focus is as much on design as it is on ecology and says; “as a designer it is vital to me to feature those with an accomplished aesthetic.” Featuring a different S&E designer each week on her website www.ecofashiontalk.com, Sass also writes for various other magazines as the European Eco Fashion Editor for Coco Eco Magazine and International Features Editor for Above Magazine. Everyone has seen trends in the fashion industry come and go, and many have questioned whether S&E fashion is merely that, a trend. I believe the answer to that question is clear. As the reality of a need for change toward more ethical practices spreads, as sustainable methods are gradually established as a standard for the future, and as the message as to why change is so important proliferates, we are witnessing an evolutionary transition of epic proportions. S&E fashion is about more than fabric; it fuses philosophy, design, art, innovation and education. S&E Fashion is the future. §
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beauty handy scandi
six products the savvy scandinavian woman needs for winter
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spas, serums, and sweets
s&e health and beauty, refined
This Page: Photographer - Mike Blackett // Make-up - Louise Dartford // Hair - Sheridan Ward // Model - Natasha Gilbert @ SIX 118
about face
P. 124
six fresh looks for autumn
IMG
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BEAUTY beauty editor’s notes by Georgie Wolfinden
Get your rest on
The new beauty rules
There’s nothing more gorgeous than skin that looks well rested. We all know that when we have less sleep, too many sugary foods and slap on any old products that our skin begins to lose it luminosity. It’s very outdated to think that products alone will create gorgeous skin. The modern approach, which works best, is looking after yourself inside and out for your best skin yet.
Eat organic whole foods Ditch the sugar Add a daily green juice to your diet ( more on that later) Invest in a few high quality beauty products - you don’t need drawers full just ones that work small wonders. Order Radiance Cleanse’s new green cleanse. Why? Its clears your skin and makes it dewy:
If you’re too tired to juice yourself then get your juices from Radiance Cleanse - the UK’s premier fresh juice delivery service have just launched their Radiance Green Cleanse - the first of its type here in the UK. Their new green cleanse will help you get A-list skin – quickly. Why? Green juices detox the body but also deeply nourish too. Skin will look clearer and more youthful after taking these liquid greens. Drink up! www.radiancecleanse.com
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Buy Tammy Fender Quintessential Serum. Why? One of the most effective aging serums available: This all natural super serum offers premium cellular nutrition to the skin in the purest form possible. The all natural, cold pressed organic ingredients mean that your skin receives the deepest nourishment and care. This serum works hard to restore skin back to its optimal condition. Skin will feel deeply hydrated, rejuvenated with any scars and blemishes repairing more easily. Skin will appear smoother and more plumped up. The ultimate skintreat for green goddesses. Available exclusively from www.glowgetter.co.uk
Read ‘Feed Your Face’ by Dr Jessica Wu. Why? Some of the best celebrity secrets revealed: Top LA dermatologist Dr Jessica Wu’s book Feed your face is genius. She looks after A-list skin and knows her stuff. After years of battling her own pimple prone skin she has learned that what you eat has a huge effect on your complexion. And the likes of stars including Katherine Heigl, Maria Bello, Kimora Lee Simmons, and Lisa Ling agree. So, check out her easy-to-follow 28-day diet plan that will help you banish blemishes, wipe out wrinkles, shed unwanted pounds, and generally feel great. Eat to improve skin and get your glow back. Available from all good book stores nationwide
Treatment of the month: Dr Duve Freshlift Facial using Jet Peel 3 What it is: The Dr Duve ‘Freshlift’ has been created by leading German dermatologist Dr Stefan Duve. His special facial combines the jet peel method with his revolutionary anti aging skincare line to give a tailored skincare experience and a fresher and more youthful appearance. What it does: This effective facial deeply cleans, nourishes and delivers oxygen and bespoke skin boosters into the skin delivering real results and addressing specific skincare concerns. The jet peel: This method works to detox the surface of the skin by removing unwanted dead skin cells as well as pumping pure oxygen deep into the skin, creating a healthier and more luminous complexion. Best bit: Post peel your skin will be treated to Dr Duve’s luxurious collagen mask which calms, plumps and nourishes the skin. During the facial any specific skincare issues you might have including acne, sun damage or pigmentation will be addressed and the relevant Dr Duve products will be chosen and used throughout the facial. At the end of the experience skin boosting waters will be administered via the jets into the skin allowing them to penetrate deeply and be more effective. End result? Clearer, softer, refreshed skin tone. Detoxed, happy skin: delivered. www.michaeljohn.co.uk SIX 121
BEAUTY
The product: Bee Yummy Skincare, an innovative, raw, hand blended super cream developed by cult health store Live Live in New York.
Super healing: This nourishing cream works to heal, rejuvenate and calm the skin The special skin feeding ingredients are all raw, wild crafted and picked at optimu times of the year to ensure that the energetic quality of the product is at its best so y skin will glow instantly.
Good for: This is great for people who have skin issues including acne, rosacea and super sensitive skin types.
Wonder ingredients: Within minutes of application, your skin will absorb as many a nutrients, which are contained in the raw honey. The honey nourishes and purifies while the high content of bee pollen provides essential protective antioxidants needed for healthy skin. Old school beauty ingredient royal jelly has superior antibacterial and anti-aging properties, so skin will appear naturally more plumped up and clear. End result: Skin feels soft, calm and deeply nourished. Look no further for the ultimate allnatural skincare solution. Get your glow on. www.live-live.com
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n. um your
d even
as 80 s
loves...
by Georgie Wolfinden Photo by Malcolm Campbell
BEAUTY
all CHANGE
Day to evening, autumn’s face is about choice. Smoky, sexy, clean - the options are endless.
Inika Mineral Eye-shadow in Platinum (£11.75 for 1.5gm). Mix with Aveda Color Options Eye Shadow Transformer (£22.50 for 15ml) and paint into inner corners of eyes, blending onto the lid. § Paint a little across the cupids bow to enhance lip shape. § The Organic Pharmacy, Organic Glam Glossy Lip Plump in Crystal Sparkle (£17.50 for 10ml). Dab a little of the platinum to the centre of the lips, over the gloss. § W3LL People Universalist Multi-Use Color Stick in 7 for cream blusher (£25) §
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Elysambre red lipstick -107 (£11.29 for3.5gm) § Apply Inika Mineral Eye-shadow in Copper Crush (£11.75 for 1.5gm) to cupids bow and mix in with gloss to paint over lips. § Apply W3LL People Universalist Luminous Multi-use Stick in Platinum Glow to inner corners of eyes and cheekbones to highlight. § Photography Mike Blackett // Makeup Lou Dartford // Model Anna Tatton at Bookings
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Use Vapour Organic Beauty Mesmerize Black pencil (£15) to draw shape in Sweep § Elysambre (£11.29) liquid liner over the top to intensify and sharpen your line. § Paint Inika Mineral Eye-shadow in Platinum (mixed in with Aveda Transformer as before) along the bottom lash line, blending it up and out to meet the black. § Vapour Organic Beauty Trick Stick in Star to cupids bow and cheekbones. § Lips - Ilia lipstick in Nobody’s Baby (£20) §
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beauty
Jane Iredale Gold liquid Eyeliner across top lashes, wing it up and out. (£17 for 7.5ml) § Jane Iredale white Eye Pencil along inner rim to widen and brighten. (£8 for 7gm) § Trick Stick to highlight inner corners of eyes and cheekbones (as before) § Lips - Une Casual Matt Lip Colour - Mo6 (£7.99 for 2gm) §
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BEAUTY
Rms cream eye-shadow in Myth all over lid as a base. (£19 for 4.25gm) § Bellapierre mineral eye-shadow in Tropic all over lid and into inner corners.§ Bellapierre mineral eye-shadow in Lock O’The Irish into the crease line to darken and along lower lashes. (£12.99 for 2.35gm) § Trick Stick (as before) Lips – Ilia lipstick – Blossom Lady (£20 for 3.55gm) §
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Green People Pure Blush in Rose Pink (£19.40 for 9gm) § Inika Copper Crush Mineral Eye-shadow (as before) with a big brush over the blusher onto cheekbones and up to temples. § Trick Stick – Inner corners of eyes and cupids bow (as before) § Suvana Paw Paw and Honey Balm on lips (£8.50 for 25gm) § Vapour, Ilia and W3LL People exclusive to Content Beauty/ Wellbeing in the UK
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Kjaer Weis eye-shadow in Cloud Nine (£32)
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Sweep all over your lid for a smooth base to get your look started. Une Absolute Blacks Kohl (£5.29 for 1.04gm)
2
This pencil comes in five different blacks so you can choose your intensity. Smudge into your lash line for an easy smoky eye.
The Organic Pharmacy liquid liner (£17.50 for 5ml)
3
Make a statement and create a sharp bold line with this liquid liner along your top lashes. Jane Iredale white pencil (£8 for 7gm)
4
Glide a white pencil along your lower inner rim to open and brighten eyes with an instant sparkle. Jane Iredale Purelash Extender and Conditioner (£14 for 9gm)
5
Use underneath your mascara to add length and thickness, while conditioning at the same time. Lavera Double Black Mascara (£12.90 for 5.5ml)
6
A lengthening brush at one end and a thickening one at the other lets you customize your look. Try layering them together for lashes to get you noticed. Photo Mike Blackett // Model Elina @ Elite Makeup Lou Dartford // Hair Paul Donovon
ey the STOR
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ye of RM
2
There was many a strong eye on the AW11 runway, with a definite nod to the sixties. Black liner was a dominant feature, taking centre stage along the top lashes at D&G while Anna Sui and Louis Vuitton went for a wide-eyed, modern Twiggy. White eyeliner was also out in force and lashes were standing to attention pushing the sixties vibe even more. SIX 131
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BEAUTY
A Scandinavian woman can’t without... LIVE
If you’ve ever experienced a Scandinavian winter, you know how rough it can be for your body. With harsh winds, cold temperatures, snow and freezing rain for several months of the year it’s no wonder that Nordic inhabitants easily suffer from sensitive and dry skin. If you want to keep your skin and hair in good shape under these conditions you have to take extra care and treat yourself. You can’t control the weather, but you can take charge of your skin’s health through the products you choose. Here are a selection that will help you fight the effects of the seasons strains. by Catharina Sundström
123 Maria Åkerberg/Dermanord Lip Care Colour Red In a dark season you need a pop of Marja Entrich Avocado Oil This product’s like a miracle in colour, and this organically made a bottle. It’s such a treat for your lipstick from Maria Åkerberg/Derface and neck. When you put it on manord may just be what you need. you instantly feel you just did your The shade red is described to be a skin a great favour. It’s an organic transparent wild strawberry colour oil that promotes cell renewal and and as amazing as that sounds, strengthens and protects your skin. it’s also true. It’s gives your lips a It’s the perfect recipe for keep- sheer coverage of a gorgeous soft ing your skin healthy through the red, which immediately brings life winter. The oil is fresh and smooth to weary lips. You’ll look healthy and melts into your skin, leaving it and fresh, and on top of that, the feeling really soft. This is a product lipstick also protects your lips and you’ll love from the very first appli- helps to keep them in good condition. Wonderful! cation. www.dermanord.se www.marjaentrich.com.au SIX 132
Villimey Skin Charm Now this is a little jar of wonder that you’re going to want to keep close. This organic salve is made from an old recipe of handpicked stinging nettles and chickweed, and it will help you with any problems you have with dry skin such as cracking and itching. It has a smooth texture that absorbes well into the skin leaving it feeling soft and nice. You’ll feel it working immediately. Just put this on any area you need it and it will make your troubles disappear. It definitely works like a charm! www.villimey.is
5 4 6 Cutrin Greenism Intensive Care Who doesn’t need a deep treatment for the hair, and what better way to do it than with this amazing product. It’s an intensive treatment designed to restore a natural shine and softness to your hair. This could be the best thing you do for your hair this season, as this product guarantees to bring new life to hair, and it really does. It leaves a rich and natural kind of healthiness, making hair feel strong and full of vitality. If the aforementioned aren’t enough of a reason to try this product, you’ll be pleased to know that the Greenism product line takes great consideration to the environment in terms of ingredients and production. www.cutrin.com
Dr Bragi Face & Body Salvation With marine enzymes this face and body mist uses unique technology to improve your skin and also prevent ageing. This is definitely a product that catches your attention. Spritz it all over your body and not only does it work at once, it also continues to protect, moisturise and repair your skin throughout the day. With pure ingredients free of artificial content you can spoil your skin; just spray it on and enjoy! www.drbragi.com
Lumene Blueberry Curl Waterproof Mascara Long, gorgeous and separated lashes? Yes please! This mascara does it all. The brush is genius as it ensures that you’ll reach every lash for a nice and even coat of mascara. It’s quite natural looking, but easily builds up for a more intense effect. And without a hint of clumping. The mascara contains seed oil from naturally grown and handpicked arctic blueberries, and it gives your lashes nourishment and contributes to keeping them strong and healthy. And the best part? It’s waterproof and will keep your lashes safe and gorgeous through any winter weather. www.lumene.com
BEAUTY
C
packed with vegetable extracts and skin rejuvenating vitamins. You won’t find any alcohol or parabens, only high quality organic and natural ingredients, approved by Ecocert. Estelle & Thild have a diverse variety of products, with a total of five ecorganic ranges. All skin types are catered for; from their Baby & Child skincare to their Rose Otto products for mature skin, and there’s even a Fragrance Free range for those sensitive types. In fact, the cleansing milk from their Fragrance Free range (£19 for 150ml) is the brand’s top seller at Urban Retreat. It ’s a makeup remover that nourishes, while restoring the skin’s balance, and is 100% fragrance free. The company’s ethical values aren’t just limited to the contents of their products. They produce high quality, desirable items without compromising their green philosophy. Take their packaging, for example; it’s sugared almond, pretty, and totally guilt free. The clean, d e l i c a t e d e s i g n s , m a d e f r o m biodegradable plastics, even won design awards in Sweden. Throughout production they strive to keep pollution to a minimum, and they limit transport and packaging wherever possible. Ecocert have approved their production methods as well the products themselves. To get your mitts on Estelle & Thild’s fresh Stockholm skincare, pop into Urban Retreat Harrods, Ur ban R et re at Manc hes t er, o r shop online.
ertified organic lovelies Estelle & Thild have been popular in Scandinavia for years and now they’re making a splash here in the UK. In June, to the delight of earth conscious ladies everywhere, the Swedish brand became available exclusively at the Urban Retreat salon in Harrods. The brand was created from founder Pernilla Ronnberg’s own desire to find completely natural products for her children. Failing to find anything she was happy with, she took matters into her own hands. In 2007, Ronnberg developed a pure skincare range with dermatologists and paediatricians. The products were effective; kind to the environment and gentle enough for her daughters’ skin. As her girls had been the inspiration for the whole process, she named the brand after them: Estelle & Thild were reborn. Estelle & Thild’s Baby & Child range was such a big hit in Sweden that Ronnberg went on to develop products for adults too. These quickly became popular, and now Estelle & Thild are widely regarded as one of Scandinavia’s most successful beauty brands. Ronnberg believes that what we put on our bodies is just as important as what we put in our bodies. This is a fresh notion for the beauty world. With a huge www.urbanretreat.co.uk/beautique emphasis on the health and ecological benefits of organic food, why should our attitude to cosmetics be Leave your top beauty tip on SIX’s facebook page, and you any different? As such, Estelle & Thild goodies are will be entered to win a trio of Estelle & Thild products!
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sustainable
Beauty by Rebecca Oliver
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www.charini.com
BEAUTY §
bea tip
Sea buckthorn has been used by herbalists for millennia. Extraction with pulp has only recently become available and seems to be taking the natural skincare industry by storm. Bio-active substances in the oil from the seed and pulp are now used in a variety of anti-aging products. Sea buckthorn is unique in that it significantly strengthens the wall of individual cells and capillaries, while softening the tissue of the skin. It has antifungal, anti-bacterial and antiinflammatory properties, while its oil is also good for acne sufferers. Products containing sea buckthorn promote cell tissue regeneration, thus aiding in the healing of wounds, and restoring skin tissue. But most of all, sea buckthorn is famous for its anti-wrinkle effect. Pigmentation can also be improved with time, thanks to its high dose of natural vitamin A.
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I personally believe tha possible, yet offering a go do’ and stress you skin t Simplicity is bliss, and y
Other than a great skincare regime, a few other things can aid in achieving glowing skin. The first step is relaxing. It’s definitely one of the best things, and a great beauty t i p to combat the ageing process. Purposeful relaxation or taking some ‘you time’ is really important. Yoga, Qi Gong, meditation, massage, acupuncture, and walking in nature will also help.
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Your cleanser choice is essential; most cleansers today are cleaning off the skins natural protection, disturbing the balance. Our award-winning cleanser is so soft and has no sulphates or tensides; it just makes your skin velvety smooth and happy. We are very proud of the smart, organic formulation. It has to be used twice, ones to lift up the impurities with a very smart ‘fat dissolves fat-principle’” and a second time to clean off everything.
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auty ps
at skincare today should be as simple as orgeous home-spa experience. Don’t ‘over too much, with too many products. your skin will love it. Mette Picaut
Get inspired by ancient Chinese tradition: try living as s u g g e s t e d in TCM (traditional Chinese medicine). Live differently according to the four seasons; eat warm food in the winter and cold in the summer. Avoid ice in your water, especially during cold seasons. Good digestion is the secret for good health and beauty. Don’t eat really late at night if you want to look better for the next day, you will be less swollen and bloated the earlier you eat.
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Eat a rich variety of ‘skin foods’. Eating avocado can hydrate your skin and soothe inflammation. Salmon, which is high in fatty acids, is also a skin saviour. The Omega 3 found in the fish keeps cell membranes healthy and reduces damaging inflammatory agents. Dark chocolate of the highest quality is also good, as long as it’s high in organic cacao. “Theobroma cacao” means “food of the gods”. Dark berries such as blueberries, acai berries etc. contain anthocyanins; the most powerful antioxidant of them all.
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Love the sun and the light, but protect your skin from UV rays: apply high protection on the top of your cream, also in wintertime. Every famous American dermatologist writes about that as the No 1 Anti-age treatment. Vitamin A and C among other antioxidants are great protectors.
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For oily skin moisturiser might be a little too much, but beauticians here in Sweden taught me that oily skin also needs fat. Picaut Precious Oil will balance the skin during wintertime, while in the summer months skin might be fine with only Hydrating Water as it contains close to 100% Aloe Vera, and witch-hazel, also fantastic for balancing oily skin. The lipo-peptides contained in Picaut Precious Oil are made by combining two peptides: palmitoyl oligopeptide and palmitoyl tetrapepide-7. Matrixyl 3000 works by stimulating the “matrix molecules” fibronectin a n d collagens 1, 3 and 4 to reduce wrinkles. Clinical trials have also found Matrixyl 3000 to be effective in decreasing wrinkle density by 33 percent, decreasing wrinkle volume by 23 percent and decreasing wrinkle depth by 20 percent.
www.mettepicaut.se SIX 139
BEAUTY
raison D’ETRE
Raison d’Etre is an international spa company based in the Swedish capital. Established in 1998, Raison d’Etre has been creating many of the world’s most prestigious spas and spa brands for over a decade.
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by Rachael Oku
by Rachael Oku
R
spa
ecently partnering with The Grand Hôtel Stockholm, Raison d’Etre are putting their brand in the spotlight, with a spa that typifies their approach to health and fitness, and unites Nordic heritage with the finest facilities the 21st Century has to offer. Opened in November 2009, Raison d’Etre’s Spa at The Grand Hôtel Stockholm is the brand’s flagship; offering a guest experience and pampering service, previously unknown in Sweden. Designed by architect Per Öberg The Grand Hôtel Stockholm’s spa expertly merges a Nordic theme with contemporary design offering a truly innovative classical concept. The appeasing architecture, soft interiors, gentle music, delicate aroma and a heartfelt welcome create a calm and welcoming setting. The 1,152m² spa is spread over two floors and boasts eight treatment rooms in addition to a seamlessly integrated state-of-the-art fitness centre that caters to muscle-building and cardiovascular activities. In a palette of granite, Nordic ash, creams and whites, the Raison d’Etre spa celebrates the history and landscape of the Swedish archipelagos. Inspired by local nature and heritage, this is a spa to savour and remember. Creating an eponymous range of strong, powerful, natural and organic products made from ingredients hand-picked in Nordic countries,Raison d’Etre’s range draws inspiration from the ancient power which permeates Nordic countries, their histories and the barren fauna native to the region. Northern and central Sweden are home to many organic herbs and essential oils as well as the amazing Angelica root. Spruce, pine and juniper are all native to Norway, with the Arctic Circle yielding lingonberry, blueberry, cranberry and sea buckthorn in addition
to peat and birch. The indiginous Nordic people, the Sami, had a stong tradition of folk medicine which benefited greatly from the plants of the region, particularly Angelica root and birch. Offering three main treatments, as well as a host of others - most notably a Nordic bath - Raison d’Etre specialise in the following three experiences, each lasting two hours: -Be Rested: gently soothes into a deep calm and a wonderful, refreshing sleep. -Be Balanced: focuses on releasing tension in the joints, and relieving pain. -Be Renewed: revitalises, stretching and awakening the body, to leave one ready for anything. “ Bot h heali ng and meditation are the bedrock of Raison d’Etre. Daily meditation is very important to all our daily lives. It calms and clears the mind and body allowing a balancing of the whole. When we pick spa staff to work within Raison d’Etre, we search for people with the same values. In doing so, we manage to find extraordinary people who can care for our guests from their hearts”, says Rosamond Freeman-Attwood, Founder of Raison d’Etre. SIX recommend a warm foot compress, body wrap with Nordic herbs and a relaxing scalp, chest, shoulders, hands and foot massage that will help to increase circulation and leave you floating on air. Price: 1400 sek. Grand Hôtel Stockholm, Södra Blasieholmshamnen 8, Box 16424, SE-103 27, Stockholm Sweden, +46 86 79 35 00, www.grandhotel.se / www.raisondetrespa.se
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BEAUTY
Danish delight
If you like your body lotions with a hint of delicious scent, the distinct fragrance of Indian jasmine and Tunisian neroli make Ko Denmark’s Jasmine + Neroli Organic Body Lotion a perfect post-bathing treat. With additional organic ingredients including jojoba oil, coconut oil and rose water, it helps to improve the skin’s elasticity, encourages new cell growth and is particularly effective at reducing the appearance of scars and stretch marks. Aside from their many beauty benefits, jasmine and neroli are also known for their aphrodisiac properties – so slather it on, and you may find you’re not the only one who appreciates it!
van
beautyhabit.com
A Swedish treat for thirsty skin
With its rich hydrating cocktail of sweet almond oil, essential fatty acids and vitamins A, B and E, Estelle & Thild’s Eco-Organic Neroli Face Cream is a hard-working moisturiser that keeps skin baby soft throughout the day. Named after the founder’s two daughters, the Swedish range is ’eco-organic’, so not only does it contain organic and natural ingredients, but all production and packaging elements are environmentally-friendly too. For example, a clever dispensing mechanism means the recyclable container remains air-tight, eliminating the need for parabens and other chemical preservatives. The cream also comes in a fragrance-free variety for sensitive skin and a rose otto version for more mature skin types. beautique.com
Hip to be a herb
Grown in mineral-rich volcanic soil at high altitudes, Icelandic herbs are highly valued for their unique health and beauty benefits, which explains why Taer Icelandic’s Restore and Replenish Moisturiser is jam-packed with them. These include organic yarrow herb; known for its repairing and healing properties, as well as horsetail to firm the skin and lady’s mantle to soothe and heal. Ideal for very dry and mature skin types, it also helps prevent premature ageing with the help of olive leaf, algae extracts and Vitamin C. A perfect cream to keep skin hydrated while you sleep, another plus point is its relaxing herbal fragrance, which can help you drift off into a peaceful slumber. SIX 142 taer.com
CAS
nity
SE by Viola Levy
Model’s own
When it comes to skincare, who better to turn to than an ex-model whose entire career has pretty much depended on it? In addition to being snapped all over the world, Mette Picaut also trained as an acupuncturist before turning her hand to skincare and the creation of her own organic range M. Picault. A winner of a Swedish Tara 40+ Beauty Award, her Precious Oil contains three key ingredients of jojoba, kernal and seabuckthorne oils to deliver an intense boost of nourishment as well as help plump out fine lines, making it an ideal skin treat for the harsh winter months. slowfashionhouse .com
Here comes the science bit…
For fans of hi-tech skincare, Norwegian brand Skin Science is a new luxury line inspired by marine ingredients found along the country’s arctic coastline. Its USP is the special ingredient Spermine, developed by the brand’s scientists and based on an antioxidant found in all living organisms, thought to be 25-30 times more powerful than Vitamin E (which protects against sun and environmental damage.) The brand’s latest offering is the Marine Foaming Enzyme Cleanser which contains another lab-developed ingredient: Zonase X, which works at a skin friendly PH and mimics the skin’s own natural exfoliation process, gently removing the dead skin without affecting the healthy skin cells beneath. Clever stuff ! harveynichols.co.uk
And…relax
To soothe aching limbs after an intense workout, drop a few capfuls of c/o Gerd’s Birch Salt into a warm bath and let the Dead Sea and Epsom salts go to work, whilst the detoxifying birch leaves, rosemary and grapefruit help stimulate circulation. Based in Swedish Lapland, c/o Gerd was set up by brother and sister duo Anna-Lena Wiklund-Reppert and Johan Wiklund, who developed the range using natural and organic ingredients from Jokkmokk, a northern Swedish town just above the Arctic Circle. Benefitting from constant sunshine, the plants and herbs that are grown there contain potent vitamins and anti-oxidants, endowing them with serious skin-nourishing superpowers! SIX 143 s hop.careofgerd.com
BEAUTY
liquid YOUTH
BIOEFFECT’s new weapon in the fight against aging
by Lou Dartford The cosmetics industry’s ongoing search for the latest age-busting ingredients, fuels our desire for ever-lasting youth. There is a constant stream of new products available to us, each with their own promises and claims, heralding to be the wonder product to win the war on time. As the battle continues, many hero ingredients are discovered and their powers unleashed onto our ageing skins. One of the present front-liners is Epidermal Growth Factor (EFG), and one brand that know a thing or two about it is the Icelandic based Sif Cosmetics who have a BIOEFFECT EFG Serum. Found naturally in the body, EFG is a protein that is responsible for the stimulation and maintenance of skin cells, i.e. keeps them young and healthy. Its discovery in 1986, won a Nobel Peace Prize and the cosmetic possibilities were quickly realised. At first it was used for healing wounds but it soon made its way into the realms of anti-ageing and has become a popular ingredient in many skin creams. As skin ages, the natural EFG diminishes; thus less collagen and elastin are produced. This leads to the fine-lines and wrinkles that so many of us detest. It makes sense then, that many skincare brands have incorporated EFG into their anti-ageing ranges.
Sif Cosmetics launched their BIOEFFECT EFG Serum in 2009 – within six months 20% of Icelandic women over the age of 30 had switched to using it. They must be doing something right! The EFG in many skincare products on the market starts its existence as genetically modified yeast, bacteria or hamster cells. The BIOEFFECT EFG is different as it begins its life in the seed of a barley plant, arguably a contentious barley plant. Synthetic genes are placed inside the plants using the Orfeus System, developed by Sif Cosmetics’ mother company, ORF Genetics. It is the seeds from this new barley that produce the valuable protein, or cellular activators. The process of using plants gives ‘an unparalleled level of purity and activity’, and allows less chance of an allergic reaction. The barley is then grown in ash from the Icelandic volcano Hekla, and watered with spring water as it flourishes in a state-of-the-art greenhouse. Ecofriendliness and sustainability are both key to the production process; geothermal energy is used for power. No animal testing was used during the making of the serum either. Once the EFG has been extracted from the barley seed, it is combined with no more than eight other ingredients to make the serum. The simplicity of the
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formulation keeps it clean and free from any unnecessary nasties. With a texture like silky water, 2-4 drops is more than adequate to cover the face and neck. It will moisturize as well, eliminating the need for multiple products. The plant origin means that the skin recognizes the EFG and allows it to do its job, rejuvenating the complexion. Sif Cosmetics are working on expanding the skincare line as well as branching out into hair-care and regeneration by working with over 100 different cellular activators. I must admit I was dubious of the GM origins but with a recommendation for all skin types, especially dry and sensitive, I gave it a go and was impressed. After just a few nights of trying it, my skin was noticeably refreshed and my glow was commented upon! The application was easy and it felt great on my skin. The price is a little steep
at £125 for what seems like quite a small bottle - 15ml. If you use the suggested amount of 2-4 drops, morning and night it should last you one and half months. A little did go a long way and it was all I used at night. I didn’t feel the need for a moisturiser so you do save money in that department. GM is a much-debated subject, too vast to tackle here, but one thing is for sure, skincare is only going to get more high tech. As long as the quest for youth goes on, new formulations are going to be found whatever it takes to get there. The BIOEFFECT range is utilizing advanced ingredients that perhaps some people might not agree with. However the brand is also doing their best to do it in a responsible way and making a lot of women happy along the way! www.bioeffect.co.uk
BEAUTY
less is more
Organic ingredients combined with the latest technology equals Tromborg. An exclusive Danish beauty label created by make-up artist Marianne Tromborg, the eponymous brand aims to deliver the best of beauty products and makeup showcased in sleek Scandinavian design. The Tromborg journey started when Marianne was a young painter who happened to be asked by a friend to help out as a make-up artist on a photoshoot. Although she had no official training the jobs started piling up and some famous photographers noticed her work and Marianne’s new career as a make-up artist was established. The Tromborg brand grew out of Marianne’s need to find products to meet her high standards of quality, combining natural ingredients with simple color palettes. The Tromborg label’s motto is the old adage ‘less is more’, a very Scandinavian approach to beauty that Marianne promotes with her functional line of beauty products ranging from hair and skincare, to a full range of cosmetics and tools – even encompassing scented candles and perfumes. Tromborg’s innovative products don’t contain any parabens, mineral oils, synthetic perfume or artificial colouring, and the
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TROMBORG by Jenny Janse
ingredients are as pure and natural as possible. Design, quality and organic ingredients are the key elements of Tromborg and to that end there are never any compromises. If the French farmer where the organic ingredients are grown are out of a specific product Marianne will wait to manufacture until her farmer has it, even if it means being out of stock of a particular product for months. At Tromborg, quality and authenticity come first. The base of the make-up line is natural mineral foundations and the kabuki brushes used to apply the foundations are made from goat hair, so soft that it’s a pleasure to apply the products. The full make-up range is well thought through and the idea is to offer products that are easy to use for just about anyone who wants to look good using as few products as possible. Swedish TV4 use many of Tromborg’s products in their productions and Swedish singer Sanna Nielsen is a huge fan. Have a look online and see why for yourself. www.tromborg.com
BEAUTY
MEET the new SWEET
by Kyra de Vreeze
B
less carrots, for their natural sweet taste and earthiness, their vibrant colour and crunch. Used in savoury dishes and in sweet; the marriage of cake and carrots is one made in heaven. Bless bananas, for their deep flavour and creaminess. E n a b l i n g c h e f s t o m a k e delectable desserts, bananas work their magic to make the use of eggs completely unnecessary, giving muffins a perfect moist and rich consistency. In a perfect world it would be: ‘one piece of love-filled banana bread a day keeps the doctor away’. But really, how far from reality is this adage? Most of us hold onto the conviction that sweets are bad for health and form. When we think of sweets we think of fluorescent coloured candy laden with refined sugar and preservatives. We long for a fresh, rich and creamy brownie; one that melts as soon as it hits the palate. We go crazy for sugar crusted crème brûlée. But then, not long after indulging ourselves, we start to feel guilty and experience the slight sensation of sugar eating away the enamel on our teeth. We feel hugely deflated and remember the articles we read about trans-fats slowly clogging veins and causing much more trouble than just the increase of dress size. Fortunately the depressing picture painted above is completely outdated. There is a new understanding and a new trend in food. Knowledge and skills of healthy eating are used to invent and bake the yummiest and healthiest sweets known to mankind. A trend in the true sense of the word: a pattern of gradual change in condition.
A whole new breed of bakeries is emerging. Bakers who are getting up in the early hours of the morning to bake vegan, gluten-free and whole-grain breads, cookies, cakes and pies. At Hannah Banana Bakery in Southampton (UK), Sattva in Stockholm (Sweden), and Jamae Natural Foods in Los Angeles (U.S.A.), wholesome goods are pulled out of the oven daily. So what are these magical delights made of ? First there are the ‘dry’ ingredients such as flour, baking powder and spices. Barley, brown rice, rye, spelt and other whole grain flours are used as a base. Grains are carbohydrates, which are essentially sugars: if you take away the fibrous shell that surrounds the grain you are left with the sugary bit. Because of the lack of fibres, the sugar is quickly released into the bloodstream. This can cause you to experience a sugar high, rapidly followed by a major energy dip. You’ll feel tired and in need of another serious sugar boost. Yawning and bitchy behaviour is not uncommon at this stage! TIP: Use whole grains instead of ordinary grains wherever possible. You’ll feel well nourished and satisfied until your next meal. And… Your friends, family and colleagues will appreciate you much more when those nasty mood swings have left the building.
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Baking powder will give the cake its fluffiness and spices such as cinnamon, cardamom, nutmeg, vanilla and ginger will add to the flavour. These spices are known for their ability to improve digestion. So bye bye bloated bellies. Coconut flakes can be added to in cre a se t h e a moun t of fibres. They give any cake a distinct flavour and a bit of extra creaminess. Did you know coconut raises metabolism and boosts the immune system? Then there are the ‘ wet ’ ingredients like sweeteners, fruit purées, oils and essences. There is absolutely no need to use refined sugar to sweeten a c a k e . A g a v e n e c t a r, s t e v i a , molasses, palm sugar and fruit purèes do their job more than adequately. These sweeteners score low on the Glycemic Index. GI measures how quickly a sugar is released into the bloodstream. To give an example, beer has a GI of 110 and is released even quicker th an re fi n e d white sugar. Stevia is a relatively unknown natural sweetener. It comes in powder and liquid form and does not contain any calories. TIP: Use stevia only as a taste enhancer. If you use too much the cake gets a strange bitter aftertaste.
Fruit purées like mashed bananas and apple sauce will substitute eggs by giving the dough a moist and rich consistency. They won’t help the cake rise though. Fat, much like sugar and salt, is an enhancer of taste. That’s why baking with oil will increase your eating experience. Sunflower, coconut and rapeseed oil, are good fats that lower c h o l e st e ro l , enhance metabolism and leave you feeling happy and satiated. An essence is a highly concentrated extract. What about adding vanilla, orange blossom or rose to your baking? All the goodness of the plant that the essence is made from is squeezed into a tiny little bottle. This makes essences extremely potent. A cake baked with rose relieves us from stress. Who would have known cake could be like baked yoga? In fact, after hearing all of the above, ‘one piece of lovefilled banana bread a day keeps the doctor away’, may not be so far from the truth after all.
Dying to bake? See these fantastic websites for inspiration: Chef Chloe My Real Food Life photos by Kyra de Vreeze SIX 149
Polly’s top tips for clear, bright and ‘stay young’ skin
It might seem strange that in the face of a life threatening illness we’re chatting about a make-up and beauty products, but Polly is un-fazed and dedicated to living her life as a positive cancer fighting beacon, refusing to be associated with such labels as ‘patient’ or ‘sufferer’. We all know chemical-laden cosmetics are harmful to our bodies and can increase our risk of contracting diseases and in some cases, such as Polly’s, chemical rich cosmetics can even lead to the worsening of diseases such as cancer. As a result, Polly is very much an advocate of chemicalfree when it comes to cosmetics and states these products as her chemical free ‘must-haves’: “Lavera double black mascara, because finding a good chemicalfree mascara has been tricky but I like this one.” “Bare Essentials Mineral Blush powder is great to accentuate cheek bones”. “I always have to have a lip balm on me - I love Trilogy Everything balm as it doubles up as moisturiser for the hands or face.” “Brown Earth's Shea Butter is a favourite, as you can feel it 'nourishing every cell.’’ To protect her skin from sun damage Polly loves Kimberly Sayer’s products especially her Ultra Light Organic Moisturiser for its high level SPF.
1. Drink water! (And more water. And more. And a little more…) OK, we hear it all the time but Polly cannot stress enough how vital it is to ensure the body is hydrated and the toxins are flushed out. ''The first thing I do on waking is drink 1-2 pints of spring water with a squeeze of lemon to hydrate and alkalize my body before I even think about eating anything. I normally follow this with a half a litre of green juice.” 2. Eat green! A healthy alkaline plant-based diet that floods the body with enzymes, vitamins, minerals and phytonutrients is key. The cleaner and greener your diet, the healthier cells you’ll have which promote good clear vibrant-looking skin. 3. Ditch the toxins Using chemical-free make-up and beauty products where possible will avoid the number of harmful pollutants that your body absorbs. Over time these chemicals stockpile, overworking your liver and can potentially cause harm further down the line. 4. Brushing isn't just for your hair Dry skin exfoliation can help eliminate dead skin and kick start the lymphatic system helping to rid the body of toxins, increase blood circulation and decrease any puffiness. Use a natural bristle brush and apply long sweeping movements starting at the feet, always working towards the heart. 5. Keep moving Improve your body’s circulation by exercising regularly. Polly does yoga most days and starts off the day by jumping on a trampoline for at least 10 minutes to get her heart beating and her lymph system pumping!
ALONG
came
POLLY by Jess Latapie
W
Fo r Po l l y, a f o c u s o n ith a mission to heal Dignified, gracious, decent, noble. nutrition is key. “I am just herself her OWN way, Polly Noble, to be precise. as passionate to ensure that and to teach people about it in the process, so far After battling cervical cancer in 2006, Polly what I put into my body is equally as nourishing as the former is providing discovered a lump in her neck just four years what I put onto it. Drinkpositive results, much to the surprise (and against on and was diagnosed with an incurable re- ing green juice consisting of at least half a cucumber the advice), of a medicurrence of cancer in her lymph nodes. every day certainly helps cal professional or two. All while in her 20’s. as it contains silica, aka the As part of her mission What would you do? ‘beauty mineral’ which helps to share her journey with to make hair shine, skin glow the world and 'leave it a Polly’s answer is to kick cancer's ass. and nails grow!’’. little better' than she found it, www.pollynoble.com (her thriving hub of all Polly also swears by an organic sulphur compound things raw, green and chemical free), was born in Au- called MSM, again rich in silica, that she adds to her gust last year. Amazingly, Polly has also found the time drinking water. After just six months of listening to and working to give workshops and talks, write books and coach others through their battles with cancer. Not surpris- with her body, Polly proved her status as a revolutionary, ingly then, SIX are delighted that she has found a little having shrunk the lump (which indeed turned out to be a tumour), in her neck by a whole millimetre in time to have a chat with us. With such a busy schedule on her hands it is admirable circumference. to see how determined Polly is to look after herself Although she has not been back for more measurements on every level possible. A quick peek at her blog is on her progress since, for various reasons, she is quick enough to whet the appetite for a mind, body and soul to tell us: “I feel happier and healthier than I ever have, MOT, and a little education on the fact that your brain despite living with cancer every single day”. Just when actually plays a huge role in your overall well-being – we thought there was no such thing as a real life super hero - Along came Polly! inside and out. SIX 151
EXPLORE Helsinki is compact and beautiful. The best way to experience the Finnish capital is to wander the streets by foot or bike while breathing in the atmosphere and enjoying Helsinki’s unique architecture. If your feet get tired you can always jump on one of the inner-city trams and see where the tracks take you.
Shop I VA N A h e l s i n k i i s the m o s t f a m o u s a n d respected independent fashion label in Finland. Started by sisters Paola Suhonen and Pirjo Suhonen it was the first Finnish fashion house to participate in Paris Fashion Week in 2007 and has been a tremendous success ever since. The IVANAhelsinki store is located Punauori, in the heart of design district of the Finnish capital and is a must stop for anyone interested in Scandinavian design and fashion. Uudenmaankatu 15, 00100 Helsinki, +35 89 62 24 422 // www.ivanahelsinki.com
by Axel Schroderous
HELSINKI Rest
Hotel GLO and Hotel Klaus K are two design hotels that offer a unique and different hotel experience. They are both located perfectly in the city-centre with walking distance from all the best restaurants, bars, shops and sights. If you don’t feel like wandering off into the city night, both hotels have excellent restaurants and bars that will fulfill all your needs.
HELSINK
Myymala2 is an excellent place to mix shopping and culture as it functions both as a gallery space and a shop for independent designers. One can enjoy art from young Finnish designers and artists while buying souvenirs and designer pieces to bring back home. Uudenmaankatu 23, 00100 Helsinki // www.myymala2.com
Hotel KlausK Bulevardi 2-4, 00120 Helsinki, +35 80 20 77 04 700 www.klauskhotel.com Hotel GLO Kluuvikatu 4, 00100 Helsinki +35 81 03 44 44 00 // www.hotelglo.fi
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Eat
Even though it is featured in every guide book that talks about Helsinki’s cuisine, the Restaurant Sea Horse cannot be ignored. The Sea Horse’s traditional fish soup is the best in town and the menu has not changed in decades: dishes are big, hearty and simple. Sea Horse welcomes everyone with a firm handshake and polite service. Sea Horse is also one of the few places still known to serve a shot of Finnish vodka as a starter, not an aperitif. Sea Horse is a true old-school Helsinki experience that should not be missed. Kapteeninkatu 11, 00140 Helsinki +35 89 62 81 69 // www.seahorse.fi
Culture
The Museum of Contemporary Art, Kiasma, is located in the city centre and is an unforgettable experience for anyone who decides to visit as it is a piece of art in itself. Kiasma is a perfect place to spend a Sunday afternoon and is surrounded by many cafés and restaurants where you can have a relaxing drink afterwards. Mannerheiminaukio 2, 00100 Helsinki, +35 89 17 33 65 01, www.kiasma.fi
Party
We G ot Beef is a t re nd y b ar located in Punavuori, the design district of Helsinki. The men look good, the women look good, and the drinks are cheap! Enjoy top DJ’s throughout the week. What more do you need? Iso Roobertinkatu 21, 00120 Helsinki +35 89 67 92 80 www.wegotbeef.fi
Kotiharjun Sauna is the best and most honest public sauna in Helsinki. Located in the workingclass district of Kallio it is a must do for everyone new to the sauna culture. The wood heated sauna has been there for decades, and fingers crossed it will stay there forever. Kippo is a frozen yoghurt café located in the centre of Helsinki’s design district. Kippo is organic and all the berries and toppings are chosen according to the season and are locally produced. Kippo is the perfect place for crowd watching while enjoying a hot cup of coffee or delicious frozen yoghurt. This autumn Kippo also offers Karelian Pies topped with egg butter, a true and genuine Finnish treat that cannot be missed. Iso Roobertinkatu 7, 00120 Helsinki, +35 84 43 29 23 24 // www.kippoyogurt.com
KI
Harjutorinkatu 1, 00500 Helsinki +35 89 75 31 535 www.kotiharjunsauna.fi
Siltanen is one of the rare bars in Helsinki where you can enjoy good late night food and watch the venue slowly but surely change from a restaurant into one of the hottest spots in town. The Kallio neighbourhood where Siltanen is located is full of interesting and beautiful people who come to Siltanen to enjoy each other and share a drink or ten. Hämeentie 13B, 00530 Helsinki, +35 84 40 66 05 30 www.siltanen.org For more info - www.helsinki.com
EXPLORE Rated second in the Reader’s Digest ‘world’s greenest, most liveable cities’ and known as the ‘world’s biggest village’, Oslo nestles between stunning Oslofjord and the green hills of Oslomarka. But it’s not just its setting that’s green - it won the European Sustainable City Award in 2003.
by Laura Edgecumbe-Ansdell
Shop
Oslo has great fashion stores that live up to the Scandinavian reputation for cool design and sustainability. Henrik Vibskov is a painfully stylish concept store stocking edgy men’s and women’s fashion including Arne & Carlos, the über cool ethical brand that uses organic cotton and alpaca to create tradition-inspired knitwear. Tollbugata 15, 0152 Oslo +47 22 33 28 20, www.henrikvibskovboutique.com Fretex creates stylish unique pieces from used materials including gorgeous up-cycled jewellery, handbags, notebooks, cushions and even bespoke wedding dresses. Its recycled wares have even been snapped up by style emporium, Liberty’s of London. Smalgangen 8, 0188 Oslo, + 47 22 17 05 47 www.fretex.no Go to Nudie Jeans for new organic cotton jeans or recycled jeans made at the Nudie salvage lab. Customers pay less if they exchange their old jeans. Sofienberggata 2, 0551 Oslo +47 22 35 11 40 // www.nudiejeans.com
OSLO
OSLO
Travel tips Before you start exploring, pick up an Oslo Pass, giving free entry to over 30 museums and attractions, including the Munch Museum and Oslo Opera House. It allows unlimited travel by all modes of public transport and offers discounts at shops and restaurants.
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Eat Rest
Oslo can satisfy every taste from haute cuisine to the humble burger. Ground-breaking Maaemo has completely redefined Norwegian cuisine. All produce used is either organic or wild and 95 per cent is Norwegian. Try the blueberry and lavender pudding – a delicious aromatic sorbet served on a layer of crumble. Schweigaardsgate 15, 0191 Oslo +47 91 99 48 05 // www.maaemo.no Night Hawk Diner is the authentic diner serving hot pancakes, unlimited coffee and 100 per cent organic beef burgers sourced from Halstenshov Farm, where free-range Hereford cattle graze on pasture just as nature intended. Seilduksgata 15, 0553 Oslo +47 96 62 73 27 // www.nighthawkdiner.com Vegetarian Café Helios Grünerløkka serves organic everything from pizza to salad and from bread to cakes. Hausmannsgate 10, 0182 Oslo +47 46 40 33 10 // www.helios.no
Many Oslo hotels create the perfect fusion of sustainability, style and sumptuousness. Atmospheric boutique Carlton Oslo Hotel Guldsmeden is on a leafy street in Ruseløkka district, a few minutes from the city centre. Its Turkish-inspired hammam spa is perfect for pampering; while its charming roof restaurant serves a variety of organic delights. Parkveien 78, Oslo 0254 +47 23 27 40 00 // www.hotelguldsmeden.com The sleek First Hotel Grims Grenka offers 50 large rooms with Bang & Olufsen TVs and mood lighting. Its rooftop terrace hosts popular organic restaurant MADU. Kongens gate 5, 0153 Oslo +47 23 10 72 00 // www.firsthotels.com
Party
In Oslo, winters are long, dark and cold so it’s no surprise that the city has great venues to chase the blues away. Aku-Aku is a rip-roaring Tiki Bar where skilled mixologists whip up perfect Mai Tais to Polynesian soundtracks. Meyers gate 32, 0555 Oslo +47 41 17 69 66 // www.akuaku.no
Culture
No trip to Oslo would be complete without seeing Edvard Munch’s masterpiece The Scream in the National Gallery. National Gallery at the National Museum, Universitetsgata 13, 0164 Oslo +47 21 98 20 00 // www.nasjonalmuseet.no
Oslo Mikrobryggeri is a pub with a microbrewery - for a local delicacy check out its home brew. Oslo Mikrobryggeri, Bogstadveien 6, 0355 Oslo +47 22 56 97 76 // www.omb.no For more information - www.visitoslo.com SIX 155
LeiVanKash J e w e lle ry
www.leivankash.com
wise WORDS Camilla Wellton
This young Stockholm designer doesn't hold a degree in fashion design. Yet here she is, winner of the Sisters Academy design competition and the Ikea Fashion Design Contest, AND shortlisted for the UK Innovation Award 2011. At the end of October she will be headlining the closing show of Shanghai Fashion Week, which will be revolutionary centred around sustainability and ethics in fashion (FYI SIX magazine is the official eco media partner of the SHFW closing show - read more on p.123). The sky is truly the limit for Camilla Wellton. SIX 158
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Camilla Wellton “
If I were mayor for the day, I would make it mandatory for every child starting first grade to adopt a tree in the neighbourhood as part of the family. Talk to it, hug it, tell it secrets, play around it, get to know its features, its resident birds and bugs.
I have a library in my bathroom, one nude painting, one huge Dragonball Z poster and some cool toys share space with about 200 books. I spend a lot of time there so I might as well get really comfy! Except the bathroom my taste is towards minimalism, as little stuff as possible but the stuff that I do have has great personality, elegance and quality.
Leading a lifestyle that makes sense and keeps me growing and energised is at the top of my priorities. This includes yoga and meditation, vegetarian food, training as well as doing my best to make sure my creativity is aligned with what’s sustainable. Since pain and misery is not really what I want, self honesty and intense need (intense pain) made me go look for solutions that would help me wake up and feel more at the opposite spectrum. Any journey inwards includes a complete panorama of inspiration. Besides finding energy, courage and inspiration to live my dream certain choices were just obvious. If you’re in love with a garment and it makes you feel great when you wear it then buy it, and such garments are rare. Clothes that help keep you in a state of happiness are a blessing in my opinion be they eco, vintage or what not. Happy people make the world a happier place so whatever helps people genuinely be happy is good for the rest of the planet too. The oldest piece of clothing I own is a Lady Soul jersey jacket my dad bought me when I was 19. It still fits and looks cool so I kept it and use it at the gym.
I do my best to only do what I like doing (it keeps my mind clean and alert and my life easier), and somehow lots of noise just gets filtered out by itself in the process. Like reading the news, fashion/trend magazines, celebrity gossip, watching TV... I just don’t do it so I’m not immersed with fashion or any other negative trappings. I know it’s a bit radical, but there it is... Fashion is the art of crafting a second skin. One you are born with, the other one you have the power to choose. Invest in the brands that help you express who you really are; brands that exude a vibe you feel kin to and at home with, that resonates with how you feel and who you are deep inside be it a superhero, sex goddess, mermaid, treehugger, mysterious girl – whatever it is.
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Camilla
Prêt-á-porter | Eco Co
www.camillaw SIX 160
Wellton
outure | Made to Measure
wellton.com SIX 161
six SIX Magazine and Estelle & Thild are offering our readers the chance to win one of three trio packs of Estelle & Thild products: Neroli Bergamot Hand Cream (£15.50) Neroli Bergamot Body Oil (£26) Neroli Bergamot Body Wash (£14)
For your chance to win, simply leave a comment on the SIX Magazine Facebook page telling us your best kept beauty secret! SIX 162
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