Welcome to South Korea - Travel guide by Skadiso

WELCOME TO

SOUTH KOREA

찜 질 방 김 치 패션 제 주 도

BASIC

INFO Currency: Korean won Voltage: 220 volts Government: Democratic Republic Passport / No - visa: 30 days visa - free Lenguage: Korean Metropolitan cities:

Seoul Busan Daegu Incheon Gwangju Daejeon Ulsan

National Flower

Or rose of Sharon, which comes into bloom from July to October every year. The flower’s symbolic significance stems from the Korean word mugung, which means immortality.

National Flag

Population: 51.33 million Area: 100,21059 km 1330Korea Travel Hotline (English)

MEET THE TEAM

Mugunghwa

Planning & Design: Veselka Petrova Editor: Editorial Staff Photographer: Jeon Han. Marketing Director: Laura Barr Contributor: Republic of Korea (visitkorea.or.ko) Special Thanks: Amelia Román, Ico Prieto, Fangni Hu Lu

Taegeukgi

The circle in the center is divided into two equal parts, where the upper red responds to the positive cosmic forces of the yang; conversely, the lower blue section represents the negative cosmic forces of the yin. The flag’s background is white, representing peace and purity valued by the people of Korea. The circle is surrounded by four trigrams, one in each corner, characterizing continual movement, balance and harmony.

INDEX 4 6 10

Tips: before travelling Culture and history Hangeul / Useful expressions

12 찜질방

38 40 46

When to see what and why? South Korean Cities you need to know Seoul Gu’s at a glance

52 패션

The journey to happiness: Zen retreat & jjimjilbang

Seoul: Where fashion couture meets street style + gender neutrality in fashion

+ tips for firts timers and where to try a korean temple stay

26 김치

62 제주도

In the mood for food

Jeju island treasures

+ street food & shopping list

+ the coastal route

72 74

Transport Accommodation

4 Tips: before travelling

TIPS

BEFORE TRAVELLING

Wr i t te n by: An n Ba be

1 2 3 4

Feb. 2 0 1 6

Every local from your bartender to your cabbie is a cultural ambassador, ready to teach you what it means to be Korean. Even a basic awareness of Korean cultural staples will go along way in making you friends on the ground. Note: inside South Korea, as it’s referred to on the world map, the country is known simply as ‘Korea’.

In cosmopolitan, ultra-modern Seoul, traditional Confucianism is the fuel that powers the city’s

hums and happenings—all the small interactions between families, friends, lovers, colleagues, neighbors, generations, and strangers that collectively make up life. For the novice, the system is nuanced in some ways and not at all in others: speak to elders with care and politeness (Korean has special honorific speech for this), never refuse a host’s invitation to dine and drink together, offer your bus seat to the greying lady who’s standing. At its core, Korea’s identity is all about social harmony.

Mix the high density with a social system that emboldens feisty old ajumma ladies and ajeoshi men to push you out of their way, and you’ve got the chaos that defines Seoul. But at the right place and time, this city can be peaceful, too. Wander into a Buddhist temple once the ceremony is over. Stumble down a winding back alley away from the crowds on the main drag. Grab these moments when you can: you may not have another opportunity for days.

Pic by Pa perENdipit y a t Bonge u n sa Te mpl e

Beware black cabs. If you accidentally hail one, you’ll be hit with a big bill at the end of the ride. More expensive than their non-black counterparts, Korea’s “deluxe taxis” charge a premium for their supposedly safer and more trustworthy services. But they’re rarely worth the extra money. Instead, just hop in a regular taxi, which in Korean is taxi; tell the cabbie where you want to go, followed by ka juseyo (go please); and make sure the meter is running—then buckle up and hold on tight.

Tips: before travelling 5

5 6 7 8 9

Korea’s street food is plentiful and varied. Sometimes it’s whimsical: spiraling skewers of potato chips, or hot dogs encased in French fries. Other times it’s homey: battered and deep-fried peppers, odeng fish cakes swimming in a salty broth. Koreans know these foods will be waiting for them, lining Seoul’s streets at all hours of the day and night. You’ll come to count on them, too. It’s a no-tipping culture. And restaurant service still manages to be next-level. Dining in Seoul, you’ll find your table has its own voice: a “ding dong!” summons a waitress, who scurries over with a smile.

Japan is a touchy subject. Tread lightly. Koreans are haunted by the 35 years of Japanese rule that from 1910 to 1945 forced tens of thousands of men into the Imperial Japanese Army and tens of thousands of women into sexual slavery. Since then, the tragedy of “comfort women,” as they are euphemistically called, has cast a shadow over Korean-Japanese relations, as these partners in trade and allies in international relations struggle to settle on history. If you stay in a more traditional hotel or motel room in Seoul, asking for a box fan might cause alarm. According to an age-old Korean superstition, sleeping in a closed room with a blowing fan will suck the oxygen out of the room. Going to the fourth floor of a building can be a challenge too. Superstitious residents won’t whistle at night so they won’t attract evil spirits, or wash their hair on the Lunar New Year for fear of rinsing away their good luck. Seoul is more tech-ed up than Silicon Valley. This is the world’s most connected city. Wi-Fi is integrated into every subway station, platform, train, and many public spaces, including some energy-efficient street lamps; transit stations are equipped with digital information terminals; and virtual stores, posted on street billboards, enable shopping and scheduling deliveries on the go.

Pi c by Robert Iz umi

6 Culture and history

CULTURE

AND HISTORY

hamanism, Buddhism, and Confucianism constitute the background of modern Korean culture. Since World War II, and especially after the Korean War, globalization and rapid political and economic development have had a marked effect on the country’s culture. Traditional thought, however, still plays an important role under the surface. Korea belongs historically to the Chinese cultural realm. After the Three Kingdoms period in particular, Korean culture was strongly influenced by the Chinese, although this influence was given a distinctive Korean stamp. A number of Korean cultural sites have been named UNESCO World Heritage sites. These include the depositories for the Tripitaka Koreana (one of the most complete editions of Buddhist canonical writings in the world), located at Haein Temple, west of Taegu (designated 1995); several dolmen (stone burial monument) sites from the 1st millennium BCE in the southwestern part of the country (2000); and the volcanic island of Cheju and its lava-tube cave system (2007). The once-dominant Confucian culture—with its emphasis on respect for ancestors, age, and seniority—continues to influence Korean family, work, and social life, albeit to a lesser degree than in the past. In addition to other factors, such as economic status and position in a business hierarchy, age and marital status are among the determinants of relative seniority, and there is some expectation that even between social acquaintances these factors—especially age—will influence relations. Traditional family life is much involved with rituals marking life-cycle milestones and the observation of holidays and ancestral rites. The most important passages in a person’s life are

the completion of a baby’s first 100 days, one’s marriage, and one’s 61st birthday. According to traditional Korean belief, the spirits of the departed do not leave the earth for several generations; thus, deceased parents and grandparents are still considered part of the family. Ancestral rites (cherye) are performed to honour them on death anniversaries and on major holidays. Two of the most important holidays are Sŏllal (Lunar New Year) and Chusŏk (harvest moon festival, often referred to as the Korean Thanksgiving), both observed according to the lunar calendar. These are marked by the gathering of families in the ancestral hometown or at the home of the head of the family. Traditional elements of holiday celebrations include the formal, respectful greeting of elders, the preparation and eating of special foods such as specific types of rice cakes (ddŏk), and the wearing of traditional dress (hanbok). Hanbok was the everyday dress of Koreans for thousands of years before the opening of the country to the West. Western dress has supplanted the hanbok almost everywhere, but even urban dwellers commonly still wear it on special occasions such as important family meetings, holidays, weddings, and funerals.

Culture and history 7

Women’s and girls’ formal hanbok consists of several layers of undergarments under a colourful, long billowing skirt and short jacket held closed with a long tie. There are different hanbok for special occasions, such as weddings, babies’ birthdays, and 61st-birthday celebrations. Food is an important part of Korean cultural identity. In the diets of even the most Westernized urban dwellers, traditional Korean cuisine, which emphasizes grains—especially rice—and fresh vegetables, continues to occupy a dominant role even amid the popularity of pizza, hamburgers, sushi, Chinese food, and other foreign dishes. A Korean meal generally consists of rice, soup or stew, and a number of side dishes, almost invariably among them kimchi, or pickled vegetables. Such is the importance of kimchi in the national diet

that an estimated 160 or more varieties have been identified, and there is a museum in Seoul dedicated to the dish. The most common type is the spicy paech’u (Chinese cabbage) kimchi. Although many families today buy most of their kimchi in supermarkets, many others still make their own. The traditional practice of kimjang, in which villages and families devoted several days in the autumn to preparing the winter supply of kimchi, is celebrated in such annual kimjang festivals as that held in the southwestern city of Kwangju. Other popular Korean dishes are bibimbap (rice mixed with vegetables, egg, a spicy sauce, and sometimes meat), jjajangmyŏn (noodles in a black-bean sauce), pulgogi (or bulgogi; marinated meat grilled over charcoal), and samgyet’ang (a soup of stewed whole chicken stuffed with rice and ginseng), which is eaten as a restorative, particularly during hot weather.

1 by Stacy Spensley 2 by Edward N . Johnson

Religion and beliefs • South Korea supports religious freedom.

• Confucianism, Buddhism and

Christianity are the main formal religion.

• Confucianism is a political and

social philosophy that pervades Korean culture

Family

Major celebrations

• The family unit is an integral

• There are two main national

• Patriarchal lineage is ubiquitous

• Celebrations for these festivals

part of customs and life in South Korea. and links ancestors through the husband’s line.

• The eldest son bears extra

holidays: New Year’s Day and Chuseok. are based around ancestors, family, games, harvest festivals and food.

responsibility to his family and it is supposed that he will care for his parents in their old age.

1 by Ha Ji - k wo n 2 by Re p u b l ic of Korea , Ha n b ok fa sh ion sh ow a t Ins a-dong , 2014. 3 by Bob McElroy, 2009. 4 by Was i n Waes ori

Food • Korean cuisine is based on rice, vegetables and meat.

• Kimchi is made from a variety

of vegetables which are then fermented and can be stored for long periods of time.

• Banchan are side dishes – these

are often made in large numbers and are served along with the main dish.

Culture and history 9

BIRTH OF THE KING

Taboos • Do not wear your shoes in

places of worship or people’s homes.

• Do not put your feet on furniture.

• Do not eat or drink in public places while walking.

• Do not place your thumb

between your middle and index finger while making a fist as this an obscene gesture.

• Do not use red ink. This is a

symbol of death and is reserved only for writing the names of the deceased. It is considered unlucky and suggests you wish death to the recipient.

THREE KINGDOMS

Goguryeo 373 B.C - 688 A.D Baekje 18 B.C - 660 A.D Shilla 57 B.C - 935 A.D

UNIFIED SHILLA GORYEO DYNASTY

918 - 1392 Capital: Kaesong The name of Korea appears. New laws were created based on Chinese law as well as Buddhist and Confucian beliefs. Creation of the Tripitaka Koreana.

• Do not stand too close to

people you are meeting for the first time – keep an arms length between you.

668 - 935 Capital: Gyeongju Shilla monks travelled to study Buddhism and bring back their cultural learning. Close ties with China. Creation of Hwarang.

THE RISE OF THE MONGOLS LAST DINASTY - JOSEON

1392 - 1910 Capital: Seoul Overthrow of Mongols by the Ming dinasty in China. Creation of Hangeul by King Sejong - 1418

• Do not use the number four if

at all possible – if giving gifts, do not give four of something. It is considered unlucky due to the similarity between the Korean word for death and the pronunciation of the word ‘four’.

2333 B.C. King Dangun founded old Joseon.

13th Century 1231 - Kublai Khan’s forces invaded and demolished Goryeo’s army.

JAPANESE OCCUPATION 1910 - 1945

TWO COUNTRIES 1948

NORTH KOREAN INVASION 1950

SIGNING OF A CEASE-FIRE July 1953

BUILDING A REAL DEMOCARCY

1992 Kim Young - sam began to build a real democracy.

10 Hangeul / Useful expressions

Pic by Jeon Ha n a t Na t ion al Han ge ul Muse um i n Yong s an-gu, Seoul, 201 5

HANGEUL

USEFUL EXPRESSIONS

angeul, one of the most indigenous and unique creations of the nation, was introduced in 1443 by King Sejong (r. 14181450), the 4th king of the Joseon Dynasty. In order to help all commoners to easily read and write this new alphabet, Hunminjeongeum (meaning “Proper sounds to instruct the people” in Korean) was created. In 1910, the name of the language was changed to the current Hangeul in the 20th century. Hangeul is a series of creative and scientifically designed characters. The alphabet is composed of basic consonants and vowels, each with a set sound, and a dot or a line added to form more sounds. The 5 main consonants (ㄱ, ㄴ, ㅅ, ㅁ, ㅇ) imitate the shape the lips and tongue make when producing that particular sound, while the 3 main vowels (ㆍ, ㅡ, ㅣ) symbolize the sky, the earth and mankind respectively. Originally composed of 17 consonants and 11 vowels, only 14 consonants and 10 vowels are used in modern Hangeul. Hangeul, as a written language, did not have any influence from pre-existing writing systems. The language is very easy for all to learn, evidenced by Korea’s illiteracy rates being one of the lowest in the world. Of all Korea’s cultural assets, the citizens are most proud of Hangeul and thus designated October 9 as Hangeul Day, to memorialize and celebrate the invention of the alphabet. In addition, UNESCO inscribed Hunminjeongeum Haerye; The Hangeul Manuscript, on the Memory of the World Register in 1997.

Hangeul / Useful expressions

Basic greetings 안녕하세요

(ahn-nyung-ha-se-yo)

어떻게 지내세요?

(uh-dduh-keh ji-neh-seh-yo? How are you?

Hello!

반갑습니다

안녕

(bahn-gap-seup-ni-da)

(ahn-nyung)

Nice to meet you!

Goodbye!

Navigating around 길을 잃었어요

Common courtesy 여기요

감사합니다

(yuh-gi-yo)

(kam-sa-ham-ni-da)

(shil-leh-hap-nee-da)

I’m lost.

(hwa-jang-shil-ee uh-di-eh-yo?) Where is the bathroom?

____어디인지 아세요?

영어 할 수 있어요?

Do you know where _____ is?

Do you speak English?

(uh-di-eehn-ji ah-seh-yo?)

(yung-uh hal su-eet-suh-yo?)

Over here.

Thank you.

실례합니다

(gil-eul ilh-uht-suh-yo)

화장실이 어디예요?

죄송합니다

(chway-seong-ham-ni-da) I’m sorry.

Excuse me.

Miscellaneous 도와주세요!

얼마에요?

Help!

How much is it?

계산서 주세요

메뉴 주세요

Bill, please.

Menu, please.

(doh-oah-ju-seh-yo!)

네

아니요

Yes

(ne)

(aniyo)

(keh-san-suh ju-seh-yo)

(uhl-mah-eh-yo?)

(meh-nyu ju-seh-yo)

Zen retreat and Jjimjilbang

THE JOURNEY TO HAPPINESS

찜질방

Right in front of the eyes, Yet unseen and unheard. The mirage of a mountain, The echo of a river, All in stillness. By Doban H C corp.

Pi c by Co ri n ne Staley at Bongeunsa Temple, May 2 0 1 2

14 The journey to happiness 1 by Jeon Han at Song gwa n gs a Tem p le 2 by Ci ty Gi r l Se arc hi ng at Na es o s a Tem p le

3am. Stars hover over a misty mountain temple. A gong sounds, rousing you from sleep on a thin floormat. Wr i t te n by : Me g a n Eaves

Oct. 2 0 1 4

찜질 방

uddhism was brought to Korea from China and has been practiced here for 1,700 years. Generally, Korean temples adhere to a meditative form of Buddhism called Seon, better known by its Japanese name: Zen. There are dozens of working Buddhist temples around South Korea today, many of which are part of Templestay (templestay.com), an official program that allows visitors to participate in monastic Buddhist life for short stays.

As most Korean temples are located in the mountains surrounded by peaceful greenery, participating in a temple stay is a wonderful way to escape the country’s urban buzz while rejuvenating soul and body. But fear not, you don’t need to be a zen master to do a temple stay: programs are geared to giving participants a thorough introduction to life in a Buddhist temple. People of all backgrounds are welcomed, and options vary from rigorous spiritual and physical challenges to relaxed programs focused on cooking or meditating.

The journey to happiness 15

Temple stay basics Most official Templestay programs last for one or two days, including an overnight. During this time, participants are completely immersed in the monastic lifestyle, right down to the simple comfy cotton uniform you’re expected to wear throughout the stay. Each temple’s program differs slightly, but most incorporate meditation and prostrations (bowing to the Buddha), though some are more rigorously spiritual than others. Participants are usually offered a choice of activities designed to harness spiritual concentration. Participants are also expected to eat temple food and learn the basics of etiquette around monks and temple staff. Many temple stays are conducted in English or through interpreters, and you’ll find often the staff and monks at Korean temples speak excellent English. Not every temple is open to international participants, though, so its best to enquire with the specific temple or the Templestay organisation before booking.

Temple stay activities Each temple will design its own program and activities based on its unique location and particular spiritual focus. But there are a few activities that almost every temple stay takes in: Meditation One of the true joys of a temple stay is the chance to clear your mind and spend time simply being. Meditation activites are often seated, sometimes in the temple grounds or outside at a beautiful natural spot. A monk will instruct you on the proper posture to clear your mind. Prostrations Every temple stay includes the act of prostrating, or bowing. You’ll learn the precise etiquette and actions for bowing before you attend any prayer services. More rigorous temples may require participants to make 1,080 prostrations a day, while more casual temples may require fewer bows. Tea ceremony Many temple stay programs include a traditional tea ceremony, during which a monk teaches you the formal rites for making tea. Oftentimes, the tea ceremony also incorporates a dialogue with the monk, where you are free to ask and answer questions.

Other activities can include outdoor walks or guided meditations, foraging and cooking classes and learning to make temple lanterns or strings of beads.

Sleeping at the temple Accommodations at Korean temples are simple, clean and usually fairly modern. Men and women are usually bunked separately, often with 2-3 people in a basic room. Floormats, blankets and pillows are provided for sleeping on the floor, and rooms have simple amenities like lights and fans for hot nights. Monks generally sleep and rise with the sun, which results in an early night and very early pre-dawn morning.

16 The journey to happiness Upon arrival, you’ll be assigned a room and given a comfortable cotton uniform, which you’ll wear throughout the stay. Shoes are always removed before entering any interior space in the temple, and you’ll be expected to clean up your room before you depart. Toilets and bathrooms in the temple are communal (your bedroom won’t be ensuite), but they are generally clean and well-kept, with modern showering facilities, not unlike what you’d find in a decent hostel.

Buddhist food Buddhist food is a rich vegetarian cuisine that is among the most diverse and interesting on offer in Korea. Most Korean temples are actively involved in the production of their food; some even forage for food and grow local vegetables, meaning what you eat during a temple stay is extremely healthy and extremely delicious. It is expected you’ll take only what you need and always finish everything off from your bowl, down to the last grain of rice, but it’s perfectly acceptable to go for multiple rounds to fill up. The idea is not to go hungry, but rather simply not to waste. And after the meal, each participant is expected to clean their own bowl and chopsticks.

찜질 방

Tips for first-timers and where to try a korean temple stay • Bring comfy socks and slip-on shoes. Having to re-tie your shoelaces each time you enter and exit a room is exhausting. • Flip flops or shower shoes are useful for using communal showers. • Bug spray can come in handy, especially during summer months. • Smoking, sex (even for married couples), drinking and loud behaviour are off-limits in most Korean temples. Participants are expected to act in a manner that respects the culture and spirituality of the temple. • Some temple stays are also open to kids and families, but not all are, so if you’re planning to travel with your family, enquire with the temple in advance. • Most temples are located high in the mountains, which can be quite cool even in summer. It’s sensible to bring along extra layers, just in case.

2 1 by Glee Bea n 2 by C i t y Gi rl Sea rc h i ng at Naesosa Temple

18 The journey to happiness

Seoul Bu lgu k s a Tem p le Pi c by Ha Ji k wo n

Myogaksa Temple +82-2-763-3109 42, Pyeongchang 8-gil, Jongno-gu, Seoul Located east of Naksan Mountain at Sungin-dong, Jongno-gu in Seoul, Myogaksa Temple offers the urbanites a chance to experience Temple Stay. Since 2002, Myogaksa Temple has run its special Temple Stay program titled “Free from All Anxiety”, which sees a growing number of foreign participants every year. Moreover, you may also have a chance to experience Korean traditional culture as well as get to know Korean history better through interesting stories.

Geumseomsa Temple +82-2-395-9955 137, Bibong-gil, Jongno-gu, Seoul Enteri n g Hwa eo m s a Tem p le Pi c by Jeo n Ha n

Geumseonsa Temple is located within Bukhansan National Park, just behind Cheong Wa Da (The Blue House) and Gyeongbokgung Palace. After passing Banyajeon Hall, where Buddhist services are held, you will see a pine tree over 200 years old, and beyong that, a staircase with 108 steps leading up to Daejeokgwangjeon Hall in the temple’s main area. To the right is Samseonggak House and Hongyegyo Bridge over the clear waters flowing down from the mountain.Additional temple buildings include Mitajeon Hall and Yeonhwadang Hall, built in 2004 by Monk Beopan; and Jeokmukdang Hall, built using traditional construction techniques.

Bongeunsa Temple +82-2-3218-4826 531, Bongeunsa-ro, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

Beo m eo s a Tem p le Pi c by Jeo n Ha n

Originally located near the royal maulsoleum (1km southwest), the temple was transferred to its current location during Joseon King Myeongjong’s reign. 3,479 Buddhist scriptures of 13 types, including the works of Kim Jeong-hee, are stored here. The Buddhist ceremony called Jeongdaebulsa, is held every September 9th of the lunar calendar, where monks march carrying the scriptures on their heads and recite the Beopseongge (Buddhist rites).

The journey to happiness 19

Southern region

Central region

Donghwasa Temple

Jeondeungsa Temple

+82-53-980-7979 1, Donghwasa 1-gil, Dong-gu, Daegu

+82-32-937-0152 37-41, Jeondeungsa-ro, Gilsang-myeon, Ganghwa-gun, Incheon

The Temple Stay program at Donghwasa Temple is called “Using Meditation in the Search for My True Self.” So it goes without saying that the central focus of this program is meditation. In fact, participants enjoy Seon meditation near stupas of ancient masters where auspicious energy resides. Other interesting features include making prayer beads and a Dharma talk.

eondeungsa Temple is situated inside the walls of Samnang Fortress, which was originally built to protect Korea from foreign invaders. You’ll have to pass through the fortress gate, which is now the gate to the temple. Jeondeungsa Temple is one of the smaller Temple Stay temples that you can stay at; but with that being said, it still has a fair bit to see like the naked woman carved into the eaves of the main hall.

Beomeosa Temple

Yongjusa Temple

+82-51-508-3122 250, Beomeosa-ro, Geumjeong-gu, Busan

+82-31-235-6886 136, Yongju-ro, Hwaseong-si, Gyeonggi-do

Beomeosa Temple means “Fish from Heaven Temple,” in English. The name of the temple refers to the creation myth that surrounds the temple. According to legend, there is a water well with golden water inside it at the top of Mt. Geumjeongsan. Purportedly, golden fish rode a rainbow down from the heavens to inhabit this well. So it’s from its scenic location that Beomeosa Temple gets its name. Beomeosa Temple became known as one of the ten great temples of the Hwaeom sect in Korea in history. Now, Beomeosa Temple belongs to the largest Buddhist order in Korea, the Jogye-jong Order.

Yongjusa Temple, which means “Dragon Jewel Temple,” in English, is located in Hwaseong, Gyeonggi-do. Yongjusa Temple was first founded in 854 A.D. It was first known as Galyangsa Temple. The courtyard of the temple contains Beomjong (the Sacred Bell of Yongjusa Temple, National Treasure No. 120), a stupa (stone pagoda), Daeungbojeon (the main hall) and Cheonboru Pavilion. Visitors to Yongjusa Temple can also find the “Bumoeunjunggyeong” books, which were written by King Jeongjo on the subject of filial affection and respect for one’s parents.

Yakchunsa Temple

Woljeongsa Temple

+82-64-738-5000 293-28, Ieodo-ro, Seogwipo-si, Jeju-do

+82-33-339-6618 374-8, Odaesan-ro, Jinbu-myeon, Pyeongchang-gun, Gangwon-do

Upon entering Yakcheonsa Temple, guests will be greeted by a 5m-tall statue of Vairocana, the tallest of such statues in Korea, on a 4m high pedestal. The walls on both the right and left have been sculpted into large altar portraits of Buddha and in front of the Dharma Hall is a giant Buddhist temple bell, weighing 18 tons. Other notable sites are the Gulbeopdang (the Dharma Hall, built inside a natural cave), the Samseonggak Shrine, and the Sarira Pagoda. Yakcheonsa Temple is not only popular among Buddhists but is also a well sought after tourist destination.

Woljeongsa Temple is located in a forested valley east of Odaesan Mountain, and is in charge of over 60 temples and 8 monasteries in the area. Woljeongsa Temple is also the site of Seongbo Museum, displaying artifacts and treasures from Buddhist culture of the Goryeo Dynasty (918-1392), including a nine-story octagonal pagoda, also called as the Sari-Pagoda (relic pagoda), and a Stone Seated Buddha figure. Also there is the Jeokmyeolbogung where Buddha’s bones are said to be preserved, and the large sermon hall Jeokgwangjeon Pavilion.

20 The journey to happiness

Types of templestay and application 1 day program It gives you a chance to experience traditional culture of Korean Buddhism in a short time. This program is made for interested foreign visitors. Temple tour, Lotus flower making, Cham-Seon meditation and Da-Seon (Tea ceremony) are included. Now, take a rest and calm your busy mind for a moment and look around the temple compound where a lot of historical old Buddhist treasures have been well preserved and purify your mind through meditation and tea time programs with Sunim (monk).

Overnight program (Experiential program) It is only available only on weekends. Aside from the basic activities, which includes the Yebul (Buddhist ceremony), and tea time with a monk, there are also a great chance to experience more activities such as 108 prostrations, monastic formal meal, and walking meditation on the forest paths of the templeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s mountain.

Free-style program (Recuperation program) One-Step Pause Templestay is a free-style program held all the year round. If you attend the Yebul (Buddhist ceremony) in the morning and evening and take meals on time, you can manage the rest of your time at the temple by your own will.

Lotus lantern program Another common program is lotus lantern making, a form of Buddhist art; the lotus is the symbol of a light shining brightly in the dark world. Lanterns are hung on Buddhaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Birthday, eighth day of the fourth month on the lunar calendar, at all the temples and throughout cities across Korea. During the month of Buddhaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s birthday, a variety of events such as the Lotus Lantern Festival are held throughout the nation, attracting many tourists from near and far.

Pi c by Jeo n Ha n a t Beo m eo s a Temple i n Busan

The journey to happiness 21

Pi c by Cha r les La w, Te mp l e i n Seou l , Dec . 2 0 0 9

How to Sign Up for Templestay Programs Online Application

• Visit the Templestay website (eng.templestay.com) • Read the provided information

carefully, and decide on the temple you want.

• Select the program and dates you want, fill out the reservation form, and click the “reservations” button.

• Pay the participation fee once your reservation is confirmed (confirmation is thru a text message). • Contact the temple via phone or email to confirm your payment and ask about any other information needed.

What is the fee? One adult pays 50,000-70,000 won for a 2-day-1-night program which covers lodging and other expenses. There may be minor differences in fees between temples for their “rest-oriented” and “experienceoriented” Templestay programs.

22 The journey to happiness

Entra n ce a t t h e Dra go n Hi ll Sp a , Seo u l.

Po n d o u t s i d e a j j i m j i lb ang, pi c by Momo Go.

The journey to happiness 23

Traditional bathhouses (jjimjilbang) are an essential part of the contemporary Korean culture, literally meaning ‘heated rooms’. Writ ten by: Reb ecc a Mil ner

Ju l y 2 0 1 5

Getting through the door The first thing you’re likely to see when you walk in the door is a wall of small lockers. These are for your shoes: slip them inside and take your locker key in hand to the front desk. Pay up (the price should be posted at the reception desk) and hand over your shoe locker key. In exchange, you’ll be given a new locker key for the changing room (sometimes the first key is used for both), a towel and a pair of cotton pajamas. Many jjimjilbang use electronic keys, which double as your tab; otherwise, the staff will note your locker key number if you add any services inside (such as a scrub or massage), to bill you at the end. The front desk staff should point you in the direction of the appropriate gender-segregated changing room. If not, it’s nam (남) for men and yeo (여) for women.

The changing room

찜질방

t wouldn’t be odd for a group of friends to meet up at a jjimjilbang on a Friday night. Call it a spa date, but a surprisingly affordable one (entrance is about ₩8,00012,000). The more elaborate joints have restaurants, outdoor swimming pools, hair and nail salons and karaoke rooms in addition to the usual baths and saunas. There is, however, an unspoken code of manners and customs, which can make visiting a jjimjilbang intimidating for foreign travellers. So we’re breaking it down for you, step by step. Just don your towel and follow our guide below and you’ll be soaking in a Korean spa like a pro in no time.

The key in your hand should have a number on it – that’s your locker, where you’ll store your clothes and anything else you’re carrying. Most jjimjilbang have two distinct areas: the baths, which are same-sex only, and the sauna areas, which are communal. Whichever you want to visit is up to you, though most people would prefer to wash up before sweating it out (and then wash up again). But here’s what you need to know: if you’re going to the baths, you need to remove all clothing, bringing only a small towel and toiletries with you. If you’re going to the saunas, change into the pajamas. Wear your locker key on your wrist.

The baths The cardinal rule here is that you need to wash before getting into the baths. There will be rows of washing stations and piles of plastic stools; grab one and pick a faucet. There will be soap, but there isn’t likely to be shampoo or conditioner, so you’ll need to bring your own (most convenience stores in Korea sell little single-use packets of various toiletries; jjimjilbang usually sell them, as well). You don’t have to wash your hair, but if you don’t and it’s long, make sure to tie it up so it doesn’t trail in the bath. Once you’re nice and clean, head to the tubs. There will usually be a variety of temperatures, from about 38°C (not too hot) to about 42°C (pretty hot), and also a cold tub. In most jjimjilbang, these are indoor soaking pools, but some also have open-air ba-

24 The journey to happiness

ths. Bathhouse regulars have their individual routines down to a science, but in general, optimal soaking time is considered to be 20 minutes. To stay in this long, it’s best to keep your heart above the water.

if you’ve never liked saunas, you might like these). Traditional Korean saunas (called hanjeungmak; 한증막) are stone or clay kilns heated to between 50 and 90 degrees celsius, and are really quite pleasant.As you lie on hemp mats (or sometimes salt or jade crystals), the heated stone gently warms your body and after about 15-20 minutes, you start to sweat. It’s actually quite easy to fall asleep, so mind that you don’t (or risk dehydration). Cap off a good sweat with a cold, sweet sikhye (식혜), a traditional fermented rice drink usually sold at jjimjilbang. You can also buy eggs that have been steamed in the saunas (called maekbanseok gyeran; 맥반석계란).

Koreans, and women in particular, are mad about exfoliation, and you’ll see them giving themselves long and hearty scrubs (you can also buy scrubbing towels and mitts at convenience stores and markets). If you really want to up your jjimjilbang game, you can opt for a professional scrub (called seshin; 세신). In a corner of The sleeping rooms Traditional Korean saunas (called the bathroom, there will be a few plastic tables manned by ajumma hanjeungmak; 한증막) are stone or clay Jjimjilbang, which are open 24-hours, ac(aunties) in their underwear (or men tually double as Korea’s best budget accomkilns heated to between 50 and 90 on the men’s side) wielding scrubbing modations: for a few thousand won more mitts. They’re generally merciless, degrees celsius, and are really qui- than the standard entrance fee, you can opt but you will never have smoother to spend the night in the sleeping room. skin in your life. You’d do this after te pleasant. At simpler spots, the sleeping room might soaking for a bit, so the steam from just be a wide room with some thin plasthe baths loosens your skin. A scrub tic mattresses (and yes, they are thin) and usually costs ₩15,000-20,000 (you squishy plastic blocks (‘pillows’) on the floor. can also get an oil massage here for At more sophisticated places, the sleeping about ₩60,000). rooms resemble capsule hotels, with two levels of cubbyholes, which offer a little privacy. Some have separate rooms for women and snorers (regardless, Being in the buff ear plugs are a good idea). Some also have blankets to loan or rent, though the rooms are usually heated – traditional under-floor ondol style – such that The most difficult part of the experience for a lot of first-timers they’re not necessary. is being naked with strangers. Fear not: Koreans consider this a normal part of visiting a jjimjilbang and you are unlikely to be giThere are also usually big common rooms where people congregate to watch ven a second glance by anyone else. You can use your towel to TV, sit in massage chairs, snack and generally hang out. These areas are mixed strategically cover yourself as you walk around (the towels are and non-naked, so make sure you wear the pajamas provided. Some of the small though, so this isn’t easy). You shouldn’t bring it into the fancier jjimjilbang, such as Dragon Hill Spa in Seoul, also have outdoor swimwater though, and you’ll want to keep it dry enough that you can ming areas, hot tubs and entertainment zones. towel off before heading back to the changing room. The best – and more importantly, the cutest – way to achieve this is to wear Checking out it on your head, rolling the ends to look like a sheep

The saunas The sauna you might picture – a steaming room heated to hellish temperatures – is probably different from a Korean sauna (and

This part’s easy: hand your locker key to the front desk staff and they’ll present you with a bill if you’ve racked up any charges inside. Most jjimjilbang expect you to stay no more than one night, though some, like Siloam Sauna in Seoul, will allow you to stay multiple nights and to come and go. Who knows, you just might find yourself wanting to come back.

The journey to happiness 25 1

1 by Hedgers Abroad at Bu san Spa Lan d 2 by Okennaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Od yssey at Spa Land Busan, Sal t Room 3 by K i tty & Santa at Spa Lan d 2

No u ri s h i n g stone pot mi xed ri ce by Jeon Han

IN THE MOOD FOR FOOD

김치

Pi c by Jeon Ha n, Cook i ng for Mode r n Bu l gog i

Hansik, meaning Korean food, contains less meat than most traditional Westertn or Chinese cuisine. Capturing the philosophy that â&#x20AC;&#x153;food and medicine come from the same rootâ&#x20AC;?, korean cuisine primarily consists of nutritious vegetable dishes. Namul, or seasoned vegetables, is a great source of vitamins and minerals. Meat and fish are prepared by steaming, boling or panfrying rather that deep-frying so as to preserve the inherent flavors. Koreaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s kimchi, now globally established as a healthy food, along with the great varieties of fermented condiments such as gochujang (korean chili paste), ganjang (soy sauce), and doenjang (soybean paste) not only benefit health but also enhance the flavor of food.

28 In the mood for food

he main component of a korean meal is rice served with a variety of side dishes. White rice is most common, but there are others such as japgokbap (multi-grain rice), often cooked with grains such as barley, glutinous rice, brown rice, and millet, as well as various beans. Another variation, byeolmibap, features ingredients such as oysters, kimchi, or soybean sprouts. The key to making delicious rice lies in heat control.

Ssalbap White rice is the most typically consumed rice among koreans. Freshly cooked white rice tastes great alone, and when served with side dishes it accentuates their tastes and flavours.

Gulbap

Yeongyang dolsotbap

In the last step of the rice making process, oysters are added to make an appetizing and aromatic blend of rice and oysters. Adding a little soy sauce anhances the flavour of oysters.

Dolsotbap is carefully prepared on a stone pot as a special treat. Added to the rice are beans, ginseng, jujubes and chestnuts, which are removed from the stove; they keep the rice hot to the last spoonful.

Bibimbap A variety of seasoned vegetables and sautĂŠed meat are neatly arranged with gochujang (korean chili paste) dressing. Each region boasts its own speciality with variations in the type of vegetables or meat added. The best known is Jeonju bibimbap. Another version is the dolsot bibimbap, which is served in a sizzling hot stone pot.

Kongnamulbap White rice is cooked with soybean sprouts and ground beef. The combination is highly nutritious and of great tasting. Soybean sprouts contain the same nutritional factors as the beans and are rich in Vitamin C.

Yeo n gya n g Do ls tot b a p Pi c by Jeo n Ha n

STEAMED RICE (4 SERVINGS) Ingredients 22/1 cups of white rice (korean rice) water

1 Wash rice about three times; set aside

three cups of water from the last wash.

2 Soak rice in water for 30 minutes. 3 Drain rice and put in a pot with the three cups of water you had set aside earlier. Then boil for about four minutes.

4 Reduce heat to medium low and simmer for an additional three minutes. When rice grains begin to puff, reduce heat to low and simmer for additional ten minutes.

The long-held belief is that rice is not only the “best medicine”, but also the main source of energy. Ko n ggu k s u , n o o d les i n co ld s oy m i lk b rot h Pi c by Jeo n Ha n

Guksu, or noodles, are served often as part of a korean meal. They are also a traditional treat on happy occasions, including birthdays or weddings because they carry a special message of congratulations. Noodles can be prepared quickly, and it is the go-to meal.

Janchi guksu Cooked noodles served in a light broth made from anchovy or dried kelp. Though it is now widely available, in the past when flavour was scarce, these noodles were a rare treat served mainly on celebration occasions. Long noodles are served on birthdays to wish a long and healthy life, and weddings to wish a long and happy marriage.

Naengmyeon Cold noodle dish made from buckwheat noodles. The dish was popularized by North Koreans who settled in the South after the Korean War. Beef broth

and watery radish kimchi are mixed to make a broth for nul naengmyeon and spicy red sauce is made for bibim naengmyeon. Another popular variation is hoe naengmyeon, which is served with slices of raw fish.

Kalguksu This dish consists of hand-rolled noodles cooked in broth. There are many versions of kalguksu, both in type and taste, depending on the ingredients of the broth. In rural areas, the broth is made with chicken, while in coastal regions short-necked clams are added. In mountanious areas, dried anchovies are used to flavour the broth.

Kongguksu In order to make this dish, soybeans are pre-soaked, boiled and peeled before being pureed into a thick soy broth. Soybeans are high in protein, and in Korea are often referred to as the “beef of the fields”.

30 In the mood for food

1 Do enja ngguk Soybea n Paste Sou p 2 Gamjata ng, por k-on-t he -bon e soup w i th potatoe s Pics by Jeon Ha n

Korean soups, also called guk or tang, are made by boiling various ingredients together. Jigae and jeongol are similar to soup but jjigae is slightly less watery, and jeongol is a meat and vegetable casserole cooked on the table

Kimchi jjigae and Doenjang jjigae

Although it is common sense to throw away old food, kimchi becomes better with time. Kimchi jjigae, or kimchi stew, can be made with fresh kimchi, bur old, ripe kimchi is even better. Pork, tuna or mackerel can be added to create a different variation. Another popular stew is made with doenjang (soybean paste). Doenjang jjigae is made by boiling zucchini, beef, onion, pepers and tofu in a broth of doenjang.

Miyeokguk

Dried seaweed is pre-soaked in water, then boiled with beef of other ingredients. It is customary for mothers on postratum care to have this soup every day for over a month to benefit from the seaweedâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s high calcium and iodine content. Miyeokguk is also prepared on birthdays. Miyeok is believed to enhance health and beauty, an it helps thin bloodand blood circulation as well.

Sundubu jjigae Sundubu, or soft tofu, is silkier than regular tofu. It is easily digestible, which enables better absorption of the soybeanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s nutrients. Sundubu jjigae is a spicy stew made with sundubu, pork and clam meat, and seasoned with a hot, spicy sauce.

Yukgaejang Typically made in the summer, yukgaejang is a spicy soup made from shredded beef, various vegetables, and lots of green onions. The soup helps to stimulate the appetite that is lost in the summer heat. Long known for its invigorating effects, a hearty bowl of yukgaejang eaten with rice will leave you not only sweating but also satisfied and refreshed.

Beoseot jeongol Various types of mushrooms, vegetables and seasoned beef or chicken are boiled in a clear soup. Jeongol was originally a court food, which was normally cooked on a small overtop brazier at the table.

In the mood for food 31

Try it! DOENJANG JJIGAE (4 SERVINGS) Ingredients 4 Tbsp soybean paste, 1 tofu (300g), 100g beef sirloin, 3 cups of water, 2 dried shiitake mushrooms, 1 small zucchini or squash, 1 potato, 1 green onion, 2 green chili peppers, 1 red pepper, 2tsp sesame oil, pinch of ground pepper. Condiment 1 2tsp soy sauce, 4tsp chopped green onion, 2tsp crushed garlic. Condiment 2 1tsp korean chili powder, 1tsp crushed carlic, 1tsp crushed ginger.

1 Cut tofu, potato and zucchini into small cubes.

2 Cut beef into bite size chunks and season with Condiment 1.

3 Soak mushrooms in water and remove

stems, then cut into bite size pieces. Cut green onion and peppers diagonally.

4 In a pot, sautĂŠ seasoned beef and soybean paste, then add water.

5 When stew starts to boil, add Condiment

2, tofu, mushrooms and other ingredients

Pi c by Jeo n Ha n

32 In the mood for food

Pic by Jeo n Han at the Sool Gal l e r y i n In sa-d on g

Korean traditional liquor or Sul is made by fermenting various grains. Fermentation is a crucial part of the entire liquor making process for it decides the scent and taste of the final product. Depending on the weather and region it is produced, traditional liquors vary greatly. Fruits can also be added in order to enhance taste.

Makgeolli Often referred to as the “liquor of the common people”, this milk-colored sweet liquor has recently become widely popular among young crowds and foreign tourists. The alcohol content is low (about 6%) and it is rich in amino acids, Vitamin B and organic acids. The typical makgeolli is made from rice, but there are many variations such as those made from black beans, millet, corn or sweet potato.

Soju Soju is Korea’s most well known distilled liquor. Although it has a rather high alcohol content, Koreans enjoy keeping and making new frienships over a shot of soju. Instead of “cheering”, it is customary to shout “one shot!” and empty the glass.

Gahyangju Wines made from flowers or spices are called gahyangju and wines made from fruits are called gwasilju. Gahyangju is usually made from azaleas, chrysanthemums and lotuses, and Gwasilju is typically made from bokbunja (Korean black raspberry), maesil (Asian apricot) and various other fruits. Many regions in Korea are famous for their own unique brands of wines. Popular flower wines are dugyeonju (azalea wine) from Myeoncheon and yeonyeopju (lotus wine) from Asan, and the most popular fruit wines are bokbunjaju (black raspberry wine) from Gochang, munbaeju (wild pear wine) from Seoul and igangju (pear and ginger wine) from Jeonju. Since both gahyangju and gwasilju are sweet and strongly flavored, they go well with mild foods.

Yagyongju Made by brewing various medicinal herbs, yagyongju has a unique taste and scent, and it also has various health benefits when consumed moderately. Famous yagyongju include insamju (ginseng wine) from Geumsan, songsunju (pine needle wine) from Ginjae, and baegilju (100-day wine) from Gyeryong. Fruits, rice cakes and Korean biscuits go well with these wines as do raw fish and barbecued beef.

In the mood for food 33

Royal cuisine Korean royal cuisine developed around the During the Joseon Dinasty, specialties indigetraditional philosophy of eumyang ohaeng, the nous to different regions and the first harvests ying ang yang forces, and the five elements of of the season were presented to the king as the universe. The universe can be described as offerings. These offerings included rice from the balanced co-existence of a cold and dark Yeoju and Icheon, gochujang from Sunchang, energy, and a warm and bright energy along abalone from Wando, tangerines from Jejudo, with a harmonized combination of tree, fire, honey from Inje, oysters from Seosan, dried earth, metal and water. Cold kimchi is compersimmon from Sangju, and crab from Yeongplemented by hot guk (soup); meat is balanced deok and Uljin. Breakfast and dinner prepared with vegetables; products from the mountains for the king was called surasang, which was a form a parallel with products from the see; 12-chep (dish) table consisting of 12 different and foods are carefully dishes in addition to â&#x20AC;&#x153;The chefs of the court carefu- bap, guk, kimchi, jang, selected to include all five cardinal colors lly selected ingredients that jjigae, jeongeol and jjim. (obangsaek), in which were aesthetically representa- Through the foods green represents trees, set on the table, the tive.â&#x20AC;? red represents fire, yellow king was able to see represents earth, white whether his subjects metal and black water. were having a bumper year or a lean year. One of the philosophical grounds for Korean cuisine is yaksikdongwon, meaning food and medicine are of the same root. This philosohpy was the foundation of royal cuisine during the Joseon Dynasty. Jewel in the Palace (a.k.a. Dae Jang Geum) - globally celebrated Korean drama dealing with korean royal cuisine - well portrays this aspect. The heroine Jang-geum immerses herself in creating food that enhances health, and finding ways to cure the ill through food. In one of the episodes, Jang-geum finds out the Chienese ambassador to Joseon has diabetes and prepares for him vegetable based dishes that are good for diabetes.

Deformed or damaged vegetables and fish could not be used for the kingâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s meal. Only the best of ingredients could be included in accordance with the belief that it helped the king stay clear and rightminded. The chefs of the court carefully selected ingredients that were aesthetically representative and included only the most palatable parts to ensure the best flavors and presentation. Royal cuisine avoided the use of overly salty, pungent, and stron-smelling ingredients and spices. Instead, it focused on boosting and highlighting the flavor unique to each ingredient.

Pi c s by Jeo n Han, t ri ple w hi te k i mc hi (top) & mush ro o m s a n d co rn porri dge (bot tom).

34 In the mood for food

In gred i ent s fo r Ga es eo n g Bo s s a m Ki m c h i Pi c by Jeon Han

Kimchi A single kimchi contains over ten vegetables and condiments that blend well through fermentation and create rich and savory kimchi.

Kimchi can be made with practically every vegetable grown on earth, and because each region of Korea has its own kimchi, there are more than 200 varieties of it. But although different in the ingredients used, they are all the same in that the vegetables are salted, mixed with condiments and left to ferment. The kimchi of different regions clearly stand apart from each other in both taste and appearance. The northern region, which has longer and colder winters, enjoys kimchi made less salty and less spicy, and is often more watery than other regions. On the contrary, the warmer southern regions uses more salt, salted seafood and Korean chili powder so it lasts longer. The southern regionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s kimchi sontains less liquid. Kimchi is made with a variety of vegetables in combination with various condiments. It is a low-calorie food rich in vitamins, minerals and dietary fibres. Lactic acids and aromatic components are generated during fermentation and creates that rich flavor unique to kimchi. Health, an acclaimed U.S.-based health magazine, selected kimchi as one of the top five health-boosting foods in the world based on its anticancer effect and its high vitamin and lactic acid bacetria content. For as long as humans have been harvesting crops, they have enjoyed the nutritional elements of vegetables. In order to preserve the vegetables to enjoy during the cold winter months when cultivation was practically impossible, people soon developed a storage method known as pickling in which vegetables were fermented. Rich in vitamins and minerals, kimchi was introduced in Korea around the 7th century.

It is presumed that beginning from the 12th century, several spices and seasonings began to gain popularity The exact date when hot pepper powder was first added remains unknown, but was finally used as one of the major ingredients for making kimchi in the 18th century. In fact, the very same kimchi we know today has retained the same qualities and cooking preparations that prevailed ever since it was first introduced. In the olden days, women of the village got together for gimjang, the practice of making large amounts of kimchi to last through the long winter months during which fresh vegetables became scarce. Gimjang, which epitomizes the culture of cooperation and sharing in Korean communities, as well as the advanced culinary science, was listed as one of UNESCOâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Intangible Heritage of Humanity in 2013.

In the mood for food 35

Steamed rice restaurants (Baekbanjip)

Barbecue meat restaurants (Bulgogijip)

Rice is served with a variety of gimchi, namul (parboiled vegetables), fish, and soup (usually made of soybean paste) â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the basic Korean meal.

Beef (sogogi), pork (doejigogi) and short rib (galbi) are marinated in soy sauce, sesame oil, garlic, green onions, and toasted sesame seeds, then char-broiled.

Types of restaurants

Pi c by Ay u s tely

Most restaurants are open for lunch and dinner, often with a 3pm to 5pm hiatus in the afternoon. Restaurants with night-time entertainment usually start their live music at 8pm, and they often close after midnight.

Noodle restaurants (Bunsikjip)

Raw fish restaurants (Saengson Hoejip)

Ginseng Chicken Soup restaurants (Samgyetangjip)

Dumpling restaurants (Mandujip)

Some of the popular dishes are Momil guksu, naengmyeon, kongguksu, odeng guksu, Ramyeon, udong, bibimbap and japchae.

Sliced fresh raw fish is served with a soy sauce (ganjang) or red pepper sauce (chojang). Other fish dishes include maeun tang.

Chicken stuffed with rice, white ginseng, and dates are steamed and served hot. Deep-fried chicken is also served.

Meat, vegetables, and sometimes tofu are stuffed into dumplings and steamed, fried, or boiled in a broth.

Pic by Jeon Ha n

Pi c by Jeo n Ha n

Pi c by Chloe Li m

36 In the mood for food

Street Food Tteokbokki, Sundae & Eomuk

Pic by De bbi e Hong

Smothered in a hot, spicy red chili sauce, tteokbokki is often eaten with sundae. Another delicious accompaniment to tteokbokki is skewered eomuk, which is made of ground fish, and its broth.

Twigim

Pic by Junho Jung

Twigim refers to batter-dipped and deep-fried sweet potatoes, squid, shrimp, stuffed peppers, dumplings, and much more. The crispy fritters are enjoyed dipped in soy sauce dressing.

Gimbap

Pic by Max We i

The most basic gimbap is made with rice spread on a sheet of dried laver, and filled with strips of egg, pickled raddish, carrot, and ham. There are many other variations made with kimchi, tuna, or cheese filling. Gimbap is by far Koreaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s favorite picnic food.

Tteok Kkochi & Hoe-ori gamja Tteok kkochi is skewered chicken smothered in a spicy barbecue sauce, while hoe-ori gamja is a spiral-cut potato on a stick, which is then deep-fried.

Pic by p e ak px

Dakgangjeong Dakgangjeong is korean-style fried chicken that is seasoned in a sweet chili sauce, or sometimes sweet soy sauce. Crushed nuts are used for the garnish, and to add crunchiness.

Pi c by Brandon Oh

Hotbar & Hotdog Hotbar it deep-fried fishcake made with ground fish mixed with fluor and a variety of chopped style sausage in a bun, the Korean-style hotdog is a sausage dipped in a thick batter and fried on a stick served with ketchup and mustard.

Pi c by Anokari na

Hotteok Is similar to a pancake. It is made by adding a mixture of brownsugar and nuts to fluor dough, shaped into a ball and flattened out on an oiled pan. It comes in a wide variety, including seed hotteok, vegetable hotteok and honey hotteok.

Pi c by Travel Ori ented

Patbingsu A popular summertime snack, patbingsu is a shaved ice dessert with sweet toppings like red bean paste, rice cakes and fruits. There are many varieties, including green tea flavored bingsu and wine bingsu. Pi c by Mat t hew â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Advent ures

Pi c by Men d h ak at Gangwon

Shopping list List of foodstuff you should take back as souvenirs from South Korea.

Assorted teas

Hongsam (red ginseng)

Cookies only available in korea like spicy cookies, tteobokki flavored cookies, fried chicken flavored cookes, rice cookies and many other uniquely flavored treats are available in supermarkets

Made of honey and yuja (citrus fruit), yujacha is especially popular during the cold winter days. Other popular teas include oksusu suyeomcha (corn tassel tea), maesilcha (green plum tea) and misutgaru (powdered roasted grains and nuts). Teas are available in teabag, liquid or powdered form at any supermarket or convenient store.

Six-year-old hongsam is the most popular health supplement among Koreans, especially elders. Made by steaming and then drying Goryeo ginseng, hongsam is especially good for the immune system.

Kimchi Packaged kimchi is a very popular souvenir among tourists. Othen than cabbage kimchi there is also sesame leaf kimchi, green onion kimchi and more.

Ramyeon & Cup ramyeon Korean instant ramyeon comes in a wide variety of flavor, from kimchi ramyeon to jajangmyeon and sweet and spicy ramyeon. This popular snack is convenient for outdoor jams.

Traditional sauces & Instant food In order to make Korean dishes at home, traditional sauces like gochujang or doenjang are needed. Sesame oil and pre-mixed bulgogi sauce are also popular ingredients in Korean cooking.

Tteok & Hangwa Koreans usually give each other traditional treats like tteok or hangwa during the holidays. In recent years, many rice cake shops and rice cake cafés have opened up, making traditional treats more popular and accesible to younger crowds and tourists.

김치

38 When to see what and why

WHEN

TO SEE WHAT AND WHY

Royal Pala ce in Seoul Pic by Jeon Han

Co lo ren Ho u s es i n Bu s a n Pi c by Ken Ec kert

Spring

Summer

April to May / Good Season

June to August / High Season

The spring weather in South Korea is close to being perfect. The sun is out, and there are some scattered showers, but not enough to spoil your day. The weather in the hills are also very pleasant, right after the winter, so most of the locals tend to head towards the mountains during this period. This is a popular period, but the tourist numbers are still low, so you won’t have to worry about being stuck in queues for too long.

The weather will be hot and humid, as there is quite a bit of rainfall in July (which is the wettest month). Japan and China shield Korea from heavy storms of typhoons, but some of them do get through sometimes, so keep a look out for the weather if you’re traveling during the monsoon period. This is the high season, as schools break for summer around the world, so expect a slight hike in the prices.

This is one of the best times to visit South Korea as the cherry blossoms will be in full bloom, even in cities like Busan. Since the weather is this good, this is the perfect time to explore popular landmarks such as Incheon, Suwon, or explore the beautiful national park of Seoraksan. You can even head to Dosan Seowon, to experience the Confucian lifestyle, in a traditional academy.

If you are visiting South Korea only to explore the metropolitan lifestyle offered in big cities like Seoul and Busan, this is a good time, for you will definitely need the air conditioning, and protection from the rain. However, this period has some amazing festivals happening in the country - from the Gangneung Dano Festival in June to the Boryeong Mud Festival in July.

Avg. Temperature: 69 – 77° F / 21 – 25° C (in Seoul)

Avg. Temperature: 84 – 90° F / 29 – 32° C (in Seoul)

Rainfall: 47 – 132 mm

Rainfall: 32 – 283 mm

When to see what and why 39

Hya ngwonjeong pavi l l i on Pi c by Jeon Han

Gyeo n gb o k gu n g Seo u l Pi c by Jeo n Han

Fall

Winter

September to October / Good Season

Fall is when to visit South Korea if you want to explore the countryside at its most beautiful. After the rains, the paddy fields come alive in the most vibrant shade of green. The fall colours become prominent throughout the country, even in the cities. The temperature is rather mild, and there is very little rainfall during this period as well. This is the best time for you to explore the unexplored parts of South Korea - especially in the rural areas. Explore Gangwon at its beautiful best, with its numerous national parks. Head over to the trekking trails and Buddhist temples of Namsan, or Ulleungdo’s volcanic landscape, or the romantic Jeju. This is also the best time for you to hop on the ferries to the many islands in the West Sea.

November to February / Ski Season

Winter is a traditional low season but if you are a fan of winter sports, this is when to visit South Korea. The winter can be bitingly cold, and there is a lot of snow. This is the best time to visit South Korea if you want to avoid the crowds entirely! The weather in South Korea can get really cold, and the snow can go out of hand. Before you travel, check the news to see if the roads are still open. This is a good time to visit Seoul or Busan at a highly discounted rate but for those who are more adventurous, ski resorts await you in this beautiful country. Head to the Gangwon-do region in South Korea, which is where most of the snow falls. You can also head to Pyeongchang county, which is where the 2018 winter Olympics are going to be held

Avg. Temperature: 70 – 82° F / 21 – 28° C (in Seoul)

Avg. Temperature: 33 – 53° F / 1 – 28° C (in Seoul)

Rainfall: 82 – 99 mm

Rainfall: 2 – 47 mm

40 South Korean cities you need to know

SOUTH KOREAN CITIES YOU NEED TO KNOW

V i e ws f rom the Namsan Towe r Pi c by Do n g Uk Sh i n

Seoul Seoul, the capital of Korea, is arguably the most popular tourist destination in all of Korea. Packed with countless sights to see and places to visit, such as ancient palaces, traditional markets, and high-end shopping districts, Seoul is a city with so much to offer that you might not know where to start. Over the last decade Seoul has worked hard to soften its industrial hard edges into an appealing urban ideal of parks, culture and design. Glass, concrete and steel are crafted into natural forms at the spectacular Dongdaemun Design Plaza & Park and the new City Hall. The popularity of the beautifully landscaped parks alongside the central Cheong-gye stream and the Han River has spurred on the creation of more green spaces and cycle routes. Gaze down on this sprawling metropolis of around 10 million people from atop any of Seoul’s four guardian mountains and you’ll sense the powerful pungsu-jiri (feng shui) that has long nurtured and protected the city. History clings tenaciously to the ‘Miracle on the Han’, a phoenix arisen from the ashes of the Korean War just over 60 years ago. So while Seoul has its eye clearly on the future, you’ll also encounter fascinating fragments of the past in World Heritage–listed sites such as Jongmyo shrine, the alleys between the graceful hanok (traditional wooden homes) that cluster in Bukchon, and striding along the magnificent city walls. Whatever you want, at any time of day or night, Seoul can provide. Soju (a vodka-like drink) and snacks in a street tent bar will fuel you for shopping at the buzzing Dongdaemun or Namdaemun night markets, partying in Hongdae or Itaewon, or playing online games at a PC bang.

Pa go d a La ntern Cerem o ny Pi c by Jeon Han

Insa-dong: located in the heart of the capital city Seoul, is where old and new coexist. Visitors to Insa-dong are recommended to stop at Ssamziegil, it offers interesting antiques at affordable prices within the modern exterior of a shopping mall. Gyeongbokgung Palace: Korea’s most representative royal palace, served as housing for the king as well as a spacious plaza for dealing with public affairs. N Seoul Tower: The tower not only has the best view in town but is also equipped with various subsidiary facilities where visitors can shop and dine, suited for a unique trip both day and night. Bongeunsa Temple: This historic temple houses extensive records of Korea’s Buddhist culture, but visitors of all backgrounds and religions come to enjoy the view and serenity within the bustling city. Tongin Maket: famous for street foods and dosirak café, which is a unique buffet-style lunch program offering visitors the opportunity to experience a wide variety of banchan (Korean side dishes) at affordable prices. Namsangol Hanok Village: is a specially organized tourist destination recreating the traditional appearance of a Korean village from the past. In addition, the village offers many programs featuring traditional games and performances as well as hands-on experiences where visitors can learn Korea’s folk culture.

42 South Korean cities you need to know

SOUTH KOREAN CITIES YOU NEED TO KNOW

Or y ukd o Sk y wal k Pi c by Ju j u li a n a r

Busan Bursting with mountains and beaches, hot springs and seafood, South Korea’s second-largest city is a rollicking port town with tonnes to offer. From casual tent bars and chic designer cafes to fish markets teeming with every species imaginable, Busan has something for all tastes. Rugged mountain ranges criss-crossing the city define the urban landscape, while events such as the Busan International Film Festival underscore the city’s desire to be a global meeting place. Note that Busan is within the boundaries of Gyeongsangnam-do but is a separate administrative unit with its own telephone area code. Heundae beach: An expansive, white-sand beach that is one of the most popular tourist sites in Busan. Shinsegae Centum City: In addition to shopping, visitors can also enjoy numerous entertainment options in the complex, such as a spa, ice rink, theater... Haedong Yonggungsa Temple: The temple grounds include an inner temple, three-story stone pagoda, 108-step staircase, stone statue of the ocean Buddha, and mineral water well. Dalmaji-gil Road: The temple grounds include an inner temple, three-story stone pagoda, 108-step staircase, stone statue of the ocean Buddha, and mineral water well. Oryukdo Island: The difference between low and high tide causes the number of islands in Oryukdo to fluctuate between five and six, hence the literal name “five six island.”

South Korean cities you need to know 43

Th e p a t h to Su wo n Pi c by Jo e Do e

Suwon Around 30km south of Seoul, sprawling Suwon is the largest city in Gyeonggi-do province. It’s most known for its World Heritage–listed fortifications built by Joseon dynasty ruler King Jeongjo, who had the idea of moving the capital from Seoul to Suwon in 1794. The fortress wall that surrounded the city was constructed but the king died and power stayed in Seoul. Hwaseomun Gate: The stately stone gate is topped with a single-story pavilion and is guarded by a protective semicircle stone wall, known as an ongseong wall. Hwaesong Haenggung Palace: Used by the royal family as a way to escape the dangers of war or to take a brief reprieve from the pressures of palace life. Gwangmyeong Cave: Despite the cave’s history, it has been converted into a theme park with various sculptures and stories. Yungneung & Geolleung Royal Tombs: In Youngneung are located the tombs of crown prince Sado Seja and Sado’s wife Hyegyeonggung Hongssi. Geolleung is the joint tomb of King Jeongjo. Yongjusa Temple: It was rebuilt in 1790 by King Jeongjo to mourn the tragic death of his father, Sado Seja, and to pray for the eternal rest of his father’s soul. Mulhyanggi Arboretum: is a lush arboretum located in downtown Osan, Gyeonggi-do. Spread out over a plot of land measuring 330,578.5 square meters, the arboretum has 16 themed areas with over 1,700 species of plants and a range of subsidiary facilities.

44 South Korean cities you need to know

SOUTH KOREAN CITIES YOU NEED TO KNOW

Tae hwagang Gran d Par k Pi c by Th ri n a Th a m

Ulsan Ulsan, a city located at the south-east end of Korea, is described to be one of the most beautiful coastal regions, as well as strong in building heavy-duty industrial goods. Its three major ports (Ulsan Port, Onsan Port and Bangeojin Port) gave Ulsan the ability to perform as the hub of Korean shipbuilding and a major trade gate for East Asia. Putting the industrial business aside, Ulsan is additionally known for its natural beauty and abundant tourist resources. Therefore, visitors to Ulsan can learn all about Koreaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s past and the city that brought the nation much economic development, as well as enjoy blue oceans, beautiful landscapes, and historical attractions scattered along its coastal lines. Daewangam Park: The rock island off the coast can be reached by an iron bridge. There is a legend that King Munmu of the Silla Kingdom was buried under the island to guard the kingdom even after his death. Oegosan Onggi Village: Is a top traditional folk onggi (pottery) village in Korea and showcases the conventional pottery manufacturing process. Ganjeolgot Cape: Its name comes from its resemblance to a long, pointed ganjitdae (bamboo pole) when seen from far out at sea. With its location on the east coast, it provides one of the first views of the sunrise in Korea. Jangsaengpo Whale Museum: The museum provides a range of information on whales, serving as an important venue for ocean ecology programs. Ulsan Petroglyph Museum: The exhibition hall presents models for the petroglyphs of Bangudae and Cheonjeon-ri (National Treasure No. 147), video facilities for petroglyphs, photos and replicas of objects used in daily life by people during the prehistoric age.

South Korean cities you need to know 45

Bu lgu k s a Tem p le Pi c by La rry Jo h nson

Gyeongju The City of Gyeongju has an important and rich history. For centuries, the city served as the capital of the Silla Dynasty (57 BC - AD 935), the longest period of reign in the history of Korea. Even today, you’ll find ancient landmarks blanketing the city, standing as proud testaments to a bygone era. These ancient relics are such an integral part of the landscape that the whole city has been designated a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage (known collectively as the Gyeongju Historic Area) and the city is commonly known as the “museum without walls” thanks to the many artifacts found throughout the city. Bulguksa Temple: Designated a World Heritage in 1995, Bulguksa Temple has a unique design that is believed to reflect the ideal world of Buddhism. Known as one of Korea’s most cherished remnants of the Silla Dynasty. Seokguram Grotto: Carved into the stone of the mountainside and covered with sod, the outside of Seokguram Grotto hides an impressive inside. In the middle of the granite sanctuary you’ll find a seated Buddha statue, which is regarded as one of the greatest masterpieces of the latter part of the Silla Dynasty. Daereungwon Tomb Complex: Of all the clusters of tumuli (burial mounds) scattered throughout Gyeongju, Daereungwon is the largest, with an impressive 23 burial mounds from the Silla Dynasty. Golgulsa Temple: Is prized for its Seated Rock-carved Buddha, a 4m-tall relief carving that graces the steep cliffs near the temple. Donggung Palace & Wolji Pond: Is the remains of a royal villa built for the Crown Prince. Large banquets and feasts for national events or important visitors were held here.

46 Seoul Gu’s at a glance

SEOUL GU’S AT A GLANCE

Ni ght V i ew of Seo u l Pi c by Si n a n o

Colour code Percent of foreigners Number of dongs or neighborhoods Air Quality Index. 0-50 Good / 51-100 Moderate Number of cultural spaces (exhibiton) Number of hotels Number of parks Number of restaurants As shown in Time Out

Historical spaces

Nightlife

Art

Wilderness

Shopping

Resources https://english.visitkorea.or.kr/common_intl/mapInformation.kto?md=enu&func_name=main https://www.citypopulation.de/php/southkorea-seoul.php https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Talk:Seoul https://www.magiasiatica.com/viajar-a-seul-barrio-por-barrio/ http://english.cha.go.kr/html/HtmlPage.do?pg=/royal/RoyalTombs_0.jsp&mn=EN_02_04 https://seoulsolution.kr/en/content/social-maps-seoul https://seoulsolution.kr/en/content/social-maps-seoul http://stat.seoul.go.kr/octagonweb/jsp/WWS7/WWSDS7100.jsp http://parks.seoul.go.kr/template/tempMain.do http://english.seoul.go.kr/policy-information/environment-energy/air-quality-information/2-air-pollutant-information/ http://english.seoul.go.kr/get-to-know-us/statistics-of-seoul/seoul-statistics-by-category/#none https://www.timeout.com/seoul/search#/?sort=relevance&page_number=1&categories=node-7083&viewstate=list

50 Seoul Gu’s at a glance

SEOUL GU’S AT A GLANCE

Jung-gu Literally translated as the ‘central district’, this area is home to the famous Shilla Hotel and the Myeong-dong shopping area, which is visited by more than a million shoppers every day.

Jongno-gu Jongno-gu plays an important role in Korean politics, housing government buildings and historic palaces. It is also home to Dongdaemun, the city’s garment district, which is filled with wholesale shops that stay open throughout the night and shopping malls packed with young designers. Go to Insa-dong to find traditional Korean artefacts, street food and fortune tellers.

Yeongdeungpo-gu The business hub of Seoul, this district is home to the tallest office building in the city. You probably wouldn’t come here unless you were making the trip to see clients, but if you do find yourself in the area then this is where you should go…

Gangnam-Gu Located on the south side of the Han river, it is famous for its designer shops and critically acclaimed restaurants. Go to Dosan Park to seesome of the best-dressed people in the world and witness the most recent phenomenon – couples sporting matching outfits. Garosu-gil, which means ‘tree-lined streets’, is known for its quaint stores and bohemian vibe.

Yongsan-Gu Sitting north of the river, Yongsan is a densely populated district of Seoul. The former US military base Itaewon is the most ethnically diverse part of Seoul, making it a friendly place forforeigners, and the area has lots of restaurants and bars to hang out in during the day or, even better, at night. Also be sure to visit the hilltop community of Hannam-dong, which has recently boomed into a centre for art and culture.

Mapo-Gu Undoubtedly the epicentre of young Seoul, Mapo-gu includes the neighbourhoods of Hongdae and its up-and-coming hipster sister Hapjeong. Filled with independent cafés and restaurants, the district is home to music labels and the city’s most renowned art school. The chaos and bright lights draw in swarms of people around the clock.

Seoul Gu’s at a glance 51

Top Attractions of Seoul

Seoullo 7017 Seoul’s version of the High Line in New York, this overpass-turned-park reaches a height of 17 metres tall and is one of the few green spaces in the heart of the city. Changdeokgung You must join a guided tour to look around World Heritage–listed Changdeokgung, the most beautiful of Seoul’s five main palaces. English tours run at 10.30am and 2.30pm; if you don’t care about the commentary then there are Korean tours on the hour.

with dozens of stalls selling sujebi (dough and shellfish soup), homemade kalguksu noodles and bibimbap (mixed rice, meat and vegetables). Restaurant Alley has a huge range of Korean food – all with plastic replicas outside to make choosing easy. Jongmyo Surrounded by dense woodland, the impressive buildings of the Confucian shrine Jongmyo houses the ‘spirit tablets’ of the Joseon kings and queens and some of their most loyal government officials.

Jogye-sa The focus of Jogye-sa is the giant wooden hall Daeungjeon, Seoul’s largest Buddhist worship hall. Completed in 1938, its design followed the Joseon-dynasty style.

Bongeun-sa Located in the heart of ritzy Gangnam, the shrines and halls of the Buddhist temple Bongeun-sa, with its tree-filled hillside location, stand in direct juxtaposition to its corporate high-rise surrounds.

Seoul City Hall Looking like a tsunami made of glass and steel, Seoul City Hall was completely redeveloped in 2013. It is a modern reinterpretation of traditional Korean design; the cresting wave provides shade (like the curved eaves found on palaces and temple roofs in Korea) over the handsome old City Hall, which was built from stone in 1926.

Lotte World This huge complex includes an amusement park, an ice-skating rink, a cinema multiplex, department store, folk museum, shopping mall, hotel, restaurants and more.

N Seoul Tower & Namsan Park The iconic N Seoul tower (236m), atop the city’s guardian mountain Namsan, offers panoramic views of this immense metropolis from its observation deck. Come at sunset and you can watch the city morph into a galaxy of twinkling stars. Deoksugung Palace One of Seoul’s five grand palaces built during the Joseon dynasty, Deoksugung (meaning Palace of Virtuous Longevity) is the only one you can visit in the evening and see the buildings illuminated. It first served as a palace in 1593 and is a fascinating mix of traditional Korean and Western-style neoclassical structures. Namdaemun Shopping District & Myeong-dong shopping area The largest market in Korea, each section has hundreds of stalls, from clothing to handicrafts and accessories. Its market food, though, is the biggest highlight

Bukchon Hanok Village Meaning ‘North Village’, Bukchon, between Gyeongbokgung and Changdeokgung, is home to around 900 hanok, Seoul’s largest concentration of these traditional Korean homes. Namsangol Hanok Village Located in a park at the foot of Namsan, this peaceful village is a wonderful spot to encounter traditional Korean culture. It features five differing yangban (upper class) houses from the Joseon era, all relocated here from different parts of Seoul. Seoul Museum of Art A 3-story building with 6 exhibition halls, a lecture hall for educational programs, and a library where art-related books, magazines, and visual reference materials are available to the public. Dongdaemun Design Plaza It holds various exhibitions, fashion shows, forums, conferences, and other domestic and international events.

SEOUL

Where fashion couture meets street style

패션

1 by Pau l 2 by H. B. Kang 3 by H . B . Ka n g 4 by Pa u l 5 by Pa u l

54 Seoul: Where fashion couture meets street style

Pics by: Pa ul & H. B . Ka ng Seoul Fashion Week

“It began with K-pop, moved into K-beauty and now K-fashion is the next logical move.” Wr i t te n by : Ni co Am a rca

Nov. 2 , 2 0 1 7

or those who spectate it from the outside, fashion week may seem like one big dress-up party where celebrities and tastemakers cavort about and soak up each other’s lionized awesomeness for days on end. Sure, this may be how some people (albeit a distinct minority) experience it, but recent years have amalgamated a uniform consensus among industry veterans that fashion week and all of its antics have become tiresome and uninspiring — at least within major fashion capitals such as Paris, New York, London and Milan. But as Westerners become increasingly jaded to the whole affair, those in the East are jovially celebrating the newfound prosperity of their local fashion scenes. Of all the fledgling fashion weeks out there, Seoul’s has attracted the most international praise. Since its inception in 2015, the South Korean capital’s bi-annual sartorial spectacle has garnered a sizable roster of attendees spanning editors, buyers, photographers and influencers from all over the globe. Marked by promising design talent, glittering street style and a genuine interest in all things style-related, Seoul’s reputation as South Asia’s leading fashion capital doesn’t seem to waning anytime soon. To uncover why Seoul Fashion Week has become such a global phenomenon in recent seasons, we asked four key industry insiders — including Seoul Fashion Week founder Jung Kuho, Vogue.com fashion news editor Monica Kim, Selfridges buyer Sev Halit and Korean designer Hwansung Park — to weigh in.

Seoul: Where fashion couture meets street style 55

What’s your involvement in Seoul’s fashion industry? Jung Kuho, Executive Director of Seoul Fashion Week

Sev Halit, Buyer at Selfridges

I organize the whole fashion week and choose which designers get to enter; I’m also responsible for sorting out everything for Generation Next.

SFW it’s definitely one of my favorite places to pick up new brands for Selfridges. We recently launched a project called “Seoul 10” highlighting the ten hottest brands in Seoul — right now that includes D-ANTIDOTE, Blindness and Push Button, just to name a few!

Monica Kim, Fashion News Editor at Vogue.com While there, I do show reviews, style news, profiles, photoshoots and features for Vogue.com and Vogue Runway. I do offer a lot of feedback to local designers, editors, model agents and stylists that I’ve become friends with. It goes both ways — it’s nice for me to hear how Koreans perceive their own fashion scene, and they like to know how we see it from the outside.

Hwansung Park, Designer at D-ANTIDOTE I’m a fashion designer and creative director of a Korean brand called D-ANTIDOTE.

56 Seoul: Where fashion couture meets street style

What defines Seoul’s fashion scene? Jung Kuho, Seoul Fashion Week Seoul’s fashion scene is very much involved with street culture; the city is not really into high-end fashion but more so into affordable streetwear that is influenced by K-pop stars and K-entertainment. Monica Kim, Vogue.com The fashion in Seoul moves fast and is incredibly trend-driven. It’s true that designers are good at picking up on trends, which can be both good and bad. They get criticized for following trends too much, both at home and overseas. The other thing you hear is that the domestic market is quite young (once you have money, you tend to shop international brands), and so the clothes are generally young and more commercial. It’s why you see a lot of logo hoodies, statement tees, fun denim…things like that. It’s also why designers usually have secondary diffusion lines that are purely commercial — those turn the profit, allowing them to be a little more fashion-forward with their main label. Right now, you’ll see more young designers, many of whom studied overseas and have a lot of promise. With more support from organizations like Seoul Fashion Week, a few of them are growing beautifully. That said, it’s also very tough to succeed here without money or celebrity interest (which is why celebrities are such a focus at shows). Pi cs by Paul & Re p u b li c of Ko rea

Sev Halit, Selfridges The fashion scene in Seoul is forever evolving and feels developed and exciting with every season that passes. What is most exciting is the eclectic mix of streetwear, vintage and finely tailored garments all styled together in fresh new ways.

패션

Hwansung Park, D-ANTIDOTE Seoul is a really emerging fashion city, not just in Asia but internationally. Especially when compared to other major Asian cities such as Tokyo, Hong Kong and Shanghai, Seoul is really the “bling bling” spot in Asia. Seoul is also quite modern and contemporary but it also has some historical aspects.

Seoul: Where fashion couture meets street style 57

4 5

How does Seoul differ from other major fashion cities? Jung Kuho, Seoul Fashion Week Korea’s fashion scene is much younger than other cities, giving it a more youthful perspective. Monica Kim, Vogue.com As I said earlier, it’s both fast and trend-driven. Most cities are, but it feels more noticeable here, perhaps because the trends are picked up so quickly; the season Vetements blew up, there was a hoodie on every runway. And again, what you find on the runway is generally more commercial and aimed at a younger market. 6

Seoul designers get a bad rap for copying, and though it certainly is an issue, I don’t actually find it all that different from other major fashion cities (and it’s important to note that not everyone does it). That sort of lifting is rampant, even with major Western brands. Sev Halit, Selfridges Seoul really supports new and emerging designers; they are the ones really driving the trends forward and representing the city. It’s hugely competitive with SO many talented designers out there, so naturally the speed and reactivity is outstanding. These designers are not pushing boundaries but breaking through them. Hwansung Park, D-ANTIDOTE People here are very trendy and give off a very youthful vibe, mostly because the designers themselves are very young. Designers Paris, Milan, London and New York seem to be a bit older.

58 Seoul: Where fashion couture meets street style

... as long as you like the way it looks on you, it fits! Wr i t te n by : Gi n a Ma r i n e l li Nov. 1 5 , 2 0 1 7 Bl i n d n e s s i nte r v i ew: Mo n i c a Ki m Oct. 2 1 , 2 0 1 7

ender neutrality in fashion might not be mainstream quite yet, but the discussion hardly seems to raise eyebrows. If you just take a look at the runways of Gucci, Public School, or Marc Jacobs, the lines between what once clearly identified menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s and womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s clothing have blurred. Consider them suggestions, at best. Even fast-fashion brands like Zara and H&M, who appeal to a mass audience are on board. But while the idea of ditching traditional gender labels in fashion is nothing new, can we assume that this approach to consuming fashion has officially become the new normal?

“I first remember gender-neutral fashion being a thing in the 1980s,” recalls Olivia Kim, Nordstrom’s Vice President of Creative Projects, “but back then, we called it unisex or free-size clothing. Early adopters included designers like Katharine Hamnett who made oversized T-shirts with political statements (think George Michael’s ‘Wake Me Up Before You Go-Go’ music video). Then in the ’90s, female rappers and musicians also started wearing fashion and clothing that was originally designed and intended for men.”

Ph otogra p h s f ro m : Bli n d n es s s h o p

Kim is a not only responsible for so many of the emerging and under-the-radar designers that have been introduced to the brand through her Nordstrom SPACE and Pop-In shop series, but she’s also one such industry insider who’s helped put gender-neutral clothing onto a bigger stage. “There are no rules with genderless clothing, which is appealing to the young or fashion trendsetters who want to use fashion as a self-expressive way of communicating individuality,” she says explaining the concept’s popularity. “You see that in Seoul but also in any major city.” To her point, Korea’s not the only country that you can credit for its progressive take on gender. In Japan, the concept of Genderless Kei has been a fixture for the last couple years, and you can also refer to the runways of UK-based labels like Ashley Williams and J.W.Anderson, the historically unisex designs of Rick Owens, Hedi Slimane’s non-binary approach to fashion during his time at Saint Laurent, and the aforementioned Gucci under the direction of Alessandro Michele, which continues to confront many preconceptions, gender or otherwise. “I’m sure politics has something to do with it, but more and more I think people are challenging the idea of gender as something that is black and white,” designer Rachel Comey tells us. Of course, she herself is embracing the grey area—she just debuting a line a non-gendered clothing this spring, simply found on her site under “unisex.” “As a brand, we started in menswear and evolved into women’s RTW. Introducing it again for S/S17 was a nod back to our roots, but also a way of including male employees who were already wearing the designs in their own way. We were inspired by how we saw them wearing the items and tweaked little things here and there to make it more accessible, sizing-wise, across the board,” the New York designer explains. However, gender-defying fashion—as common as it may seem—doesn’t come without its biases. “I think it’s a more generally accepted thing for a woman to wear a man’s shirt or trousers and it is labelled ‘boyfriend’ or something. Why can’t it be the other way around?” asks Comey.

As with any major change in the status quo, it’s difficult to determine just how long it will take until men’s and women’s clothing simply becomes, well, just clothing. And perhaps that’s not even what every fashion-loving person wants. But Kim offers a refreshing perspective on the shift that’s hard to argue with, especially for anyone whose style plays a strong part in their identity. “The way I think of it is, anyone who makes clothes is essentially creating garments that are gender neutral, because as long as you like the way it looks on you, it fits!” says the expert, summing up the lofty issue with the simplest of answers: “Bottom line, wear what makes you happy and what you feel confident in.”

60 Seoul: Where fashion couture meets street style Ph otogra p h s by : Sh i h o o C la u s Seo u l Fa s h i o n Week S S 2 0 1 6 & 2 0 1 7

Seoul Design Duo Blindness Is Using Gorgeous Menswear to Defy Korean Gender Norms Of the 70-some shows that return to Seoul Fashion Week each season, no one has captured the international crowd’s attention quite like Blindness. Since officially launching the label one year ago (they consider Spring 2017 their first true season), designers KyuYong Shin and JiSun Park have been quickly named the collection to see among international buyers and editors, who are drawn by the duo’s groundbreaking point of view. Where most Korean designers tend to trade in more commercial items targeted toward the country’s young customer base, Blindness indulges in sheer spectacle—not through flashy performances to distract from unremarkable clothes, but through wildly imaginative, romantic garments with yards of tulle and dripping pearls. Even more head-turning is their informal mission: to use fashion to defy gender norms in South Korea, which despite rapid economic development and Westernization remains a deeply conservative, patriarchal, and heteronormative society. Though it is true that some standards in Seoul are unconventional—now, young men might openly wear makeup, buy heeled shoes, and fuss over their appearance—Koreans tend to otherwise stick to convention; there are certain stigmas at play. When Blindness first began shaping its style, they were in fact rather hesitant to openly say they were playing with gender. But perhaps emboldened by their trips to Paris—the happy result of making the 2017 LVMH Prize shortlist—or tuned into the narrative the press have latched onto, they’ve doubled down on it. This season, they went as far as to send out statement T-shirts that said “Blind Gender Roles” and “Fuck Gender;” they are now stocked at Barneys New York, Leclaireur Paris, Selfridges London, and more.

Seoul: Where fashion couture meets street style 61

패션 Do you see the culture changing here? Why do you think gender has been so strictly defined in Korea? Park: Korea is a bit tough. Among the older generation, defying gender norms is really objectionable. We have a very old, conservative, patriarchal culture that is more strict with men. Among our younger friends, actually, the interest in more liberal overseas culture is growing. There’s the feminism movement, too. So the norms are going away a bit, but in Korea, the men have to go to military [mandatory conscription] and it affects them. He [Shin] went to military, too, and felt the pressure to be traditionally masculine grow. Despite that, there are some men loosening up. There are men who open their minds up, but to do it, you need to be brave. In Korea, especially, they might ask why do men wear this or that . . . but these men are finding their style in spite of that. There are people who are brave and want to look cool, so for us, we want to loosen that and help bring it out. Shin: Korean men’s style among young people . . . the ones who have interest in fashion, their viewpoints are slowly opening up. For us, if we keep doing this kind of genderless fashion and then other brands do it, then it could become quite average. Well, maybe not to this extent (laughs), but we think we can help make change happen. That men—or women—don’t have to dress or act a certain way.

How did you sharpen your unconventional aesthetic? You also take gender into a very different sort of consideration than other designers here. Park: When we design, we don’t think about whether it’s for men or women. When we dress the models, we just decide who it looks good on, who do these clothes flatter. If we find a friend it looks good on, man or woman, it doesn’t matter. Last season, for example . . . our beaded bomber jackets, a few womenswear buyers bought them, though they were shown on men. In Milan, they said they sold out in not even one week. Shin: It happened after LVMH. The interest started to grow. What’s interesting is that the pieces they’re buying are ones we hadn’t actually thought of selling—they’re more for the show. Park: It’s true, we do make more commercial pieces, but people pick up the show pieces more often.

Je ju Ol le t ra il route by Jeon Han

Jeju island treasures 63

JEJU ISL AND TREASURES The coastal route

제주도

64 Jeju island treasures

Sa n gu m b u ri by Jeo n Ha n

Jeju-do (제주도), Korea’s largest island, has long been the country’s favourite domestic holiday destination thanks to its beautiful beaches, lush countryside and seaside hotels designed for rest and relaxation. Wr i t te n by : L av i n i a

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Jeju island treasures 65

eju Island or also known as Jeju-do (a short form of Jeju Special Autonomous Province) is the only special autonomous province of South Korea and the country’s largest island. It’s situated southwest of Jeollanam-do Province in the Korea Strait, a sea passage between South Korea and Japan. Although the island isn’t a famous destination for the western people, the Asians are very familiar with its amazing geographic and cultural potential. In the last few years, its popularity has grown, especially for the young couples which seem to consider the island a mystic and romantic place. In time, it became one of the most visited places in East Asia, with more than four million visitors from mainland Korea, Japan, and China every year. Jeju Island is a volcanic island created entirely from volcanic eruptions approximately 2 million years ago and is dominated by Halla-san (Halla Mountain): a volcano 1,950 meters high and the highest mountain in South Korea. Because of the relative isolation, the people of Jeju have developed a culture and language that are different from those of mainland Korea, with many local legends and mystic beliefs. They even named it the “Island of the Gods”, taking after a legend that tells the story of demi-gods that lived on the island, considered to be the progenitors of Jeju people. Distinct cultural artifacts and stones with different shapes that are considered protective for the locals can be found here. With a huge variety of landscapes, from long beaches to mountains and waterfalls, Jeju Island could turn out to be a thrilling experience. Cheonjeyeon and Cheonjiyeon waterfalls, Mount Halla, Hyeobje cave and Hyeongje island are just some of the popular sights on the island. Depending on the season, Jeju hosts unsual festivals such as a penguin swimming contest in winter, a cherry blossom festival in spring, the midsummer night beach festival in summer and Jeju horse festival in autumn. Aside from these events, many activities can be done in Jeju such as horse riding, hunting, fishing, mountain climbing, hiking.

Pi c by Juli an Chung

66 Jeju island treasures

Top 10 activities on Korea’s tropical island 1. Climb a volcano

4. Take the Halla Mountain challenge

Wake up 90 minutes before dawn and follow the path to the peak of Seongsan Ilchul-bong, a dormant volcano on the east coast of Jeju. Most people complete the steep 182-metre hike in about 25 minutes. Once at the top, grab a seat on the crater ridge, watch the sunrise and ponder the majesty of nature.

Visible from every corner of the island when skies are clear, majestic Halla Mountain beckons. Though not everyone might be equipped to challenge the 1950m summit via a 9km (five hours one-way) hike, there are less demanding trail options (ranging from 30 minutes to 3.5 hours) that deliver the Halla experience. Expect magnificent foliage, awe inspiring rock formations and hordes of fashionable hikers sporting the absolute latest in alpine gear.

2. Walk Olle Perhaps the best way to explore rural Jeju is to walk any of the Olle trails. In traditional Jeju dialect, Olle is the narrow path running from one’s front door to the street. Today, Olle refers to an integrated network of 26 well-marked hiking paths that spider across the island. Trail lengths vary between seven and 23 kilometres long, each offering an up-close connection with the land and people. Stroll farm roads trimmed by tangerine orchards, zigzag through narrow alleys passing humble homes with straw-thatched roofs and traverse rocky coastlines carved out of black lava rock.

5. Savour the simple fare

3. Sunset on Hyeopjae Beach

There’s an artistic zeitgeist on Jeju that’s quite apart from anything on the Korean mainland. Architecturally, this arty trend is evident in the use of pastel colours, asymmetrical lines and a considerable reliance on floor-to-ceiling glass walls that allow a connection with the beautiful natural environment. Artistically, that sensibility comes alive on Seogwipo’s Lee Jung-Seop Art Gallery & Park, an arty neighborhood packed with craft shops, chilled-out beer bars and Bauhaus-styled restaurants. Not to be missed is Architecture Cafe Utopia, an inspired multi-level complex that’s equal parts coffee shop, beer bar and art gallery.

With cobalt seas rippling alongside nine kilometres of soft white sand intermittently spliced by fingers of black lava rock, Hyeopjae in Hallim Village is arguably Jeju’s most scenic beach. Sure it’s a busy place in the summer, when families come to frolic in the waist-deep water, but it’s pretty quiet the rest of year. The real charm of this place, however, appears at dusk. Hugging the northwest corner of the island, it’s an ideal location to be still and admire the sunset.

Jeju’s food is mightily influenced by flavours from the sea, like haemul tang, a humble hot pot filled with shrimp, crab, clams and a host of delicious fish in a semi-clear seafood broth. Local variations supplement the colour and taste with scrumptious specialties like squash or seaweed. Served with seasonal vegetables and a bowl of rice, it’s eaten for lunch or dinner but even makes a hearty breakfast.

6. Stroll Lee Jung-Seop art street in Seogwipo

Jeju island treasures 67 Pi c by Stepa n B .

7. Meet Buddha in a cave in Sagae Enlightenment doesn’t come easy. That’s the lesson to learn on a trip to Sanbang-gul-sa, a tiny but thoroughly intriguing Buddhist temple in the town of Sagye-ri on the island’s southwest corner. From the town centre, it’s a 2km walk to the base of Sanbang-san, an enormous rock formation jutting out of the earth, and another 150m up steep stairs that eventually lead to a cave housing a Buddha statue. Up top, fetch a drink from the pool of water, light a stick of incense and admire the view from this very special place.

8. Discover the unexpected on U-do Most travellers come for a day-trip to explore the rocky coast but an overnight stay provides a more reasonable amount of time to uncover its hidden spots. There’s decadent peanut butter ice cream, nourishing seaweed soup and oh-so-juicy hamburgers prepared by a gracious woman who operates a delightfully eccentric museum housing a nearly complete collection of Anne of Green Gables memorabilia, including a 1908 first edition by Lucy Maud Montgomery.

9. Sample barbecued black pork It’s hard to say you fully experienced Jeju without trying the island’s most famous dish – barbecued black pork – which is available in every city and village on the island. Today, Koreans typically opt for a fatty cut called samgyupsal, while those who prefer lean order moksal. Cook slowly over charcoal briquettes and season with salt and black pepper on the grill for maximum flavour.

10. Time travel at Seongup Folk Village Weave your way through narrow lanes and peek inside restaurants and shops amidst plumes of smoke from wood burning stoves. If time permits, set aside an hour for dinner at Gwandangnae Sikdang, a tiny restaurant outside the main gate; cramped, crowded and convivial, it’s the ultimate rustic Jeju barbecued meat experience.

68 Jeju island treasures

The coastal route Wr it te n by: Mimsie Ladn er May. 3, 2017

Surrounded by water on three sides, the peninsula that is South Korea is outlined by a highly indented, 8,640-kilometer-long coastline that is bedecked by more than 3,500 islands. Unsurprisingly, an adventure through the countryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s coastal cities promises gorgeous scenic views, amazing seafood feasts, and unsurpassed hospitality. Pack your bags and get ready to explore Koreaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s coastal route in all its glory.

Jej u Olle t rai l route by Jeon Han

Jeju island treasures 69

Day 1: Incheon Incheon isn’t just home to South Korea’s primary airport, it’s also a great base camp for exploring some of the country’s small but charming northern islands. Muuido Island, for example, has two beaches equipped with great seafood restaurants, camping facilities, and even a zip line. Meanwhile, Deokjeokdo Island’s mud flats, pebbled beaches, and 300-year-old pines are a feast for the eyes – and the soul.

Day 2: Boryeong Distance: 125km Travel Time: 1 hour 45 min. Nestled on the coast of the Yellow Sea, Boryeong attracts visitors from all over the world thanks to its expansive mud flats. Every summer, it plays host to one of the most unusual and memorable festivals in the world, the Boryeong Mud Festival. Here, locals and tourists alike take part in a variety of mud-centric activities including a mud pool, mud slides, mud prison, and mud skiing.

Days 3–5: Jeju Island Distance: 327km Travel Time: 5 hours 15 min. Just off the southern coast of South Korea, Jeju Island pulls in vacationers and honeymooners by the tens of thousands, with its colorful rapeseed fields, legendary female divers, and the world’s longest lava tube system being some of its biggest draws. Beach lovers will enjoy spending an afternoon or two soaking up the sun on its sandy shores, while divers can marvel at its volcanic underwater terrain in Seogwipo. Trekking the Olle-gil is a yet another way to

experience the natural and cultural beauty of the island. With more than 20 courses to choose from, each route offers something different, whether it be small villages, beaches, farms, or forests, providing visitors with a unique perspective of the island.

Days 6–7: Tongyeong Distance: 300km Travel Time: 3 hours 30 min. Back on the mainland, make your way to tranquil Tongyeong. Often referred to as the “Naples of Korea,” the city’s gorgeous evergreen trees and emerald seas are canopied by vast blue skies, making for some spectacular scenery. Charming islands punctuate its shores, and can be reached by ferry services that depart from Tongyeong’s central terminal. Be sure to add a bit of island-hopping to your itinerary, with Somaemul Island as a priority. This postcard-perfect island consists of a number of hiking trails with varying difficulty levels, all offering breathtaking ocean views.

Days 8–10: Busan Distance: 70km Travel Time: 1 hour 30 min. With a stunning landscape of mountains and beaches, and an endless array of hot springs and seafood restaurants, the country’s second-largest city is a boisterous coastal destination that visitors often consider a highlight of their Korean travels. Here, spend an afternoon admiring the murals and sculptures of the colorful Gamcheon Culture Village or taking in the tranquil beauty of Haedong Yonggung Temple, one of the only oceanside Buddhist temples in the entire nation.

Foodies will adore Busan’s food scene – a varied mix of casual tent bars, lively fish markets, and sophisticated cafés. For glorious sunsets, head to Haeundae Beach, a beautiful stretch of white sand set against the city’s urban landscape.

Days 11–12: Yangyang Distance: 330km Travel Time: 5 hours 15 min. Located on the northeastern seaboard of Gangwon-do province, Yangyang is home to a number of beautiful beaches and is particularly famous for its surfing scene. Naksan Beach, a wide, two-kilometer stretch of sandy shore, is practically deserted for most of the year except July and August, when visitors flock to the area to participate in an array of water sports. Seafood restaurants line the northern end of the shore, offering fantastic seafood and even better ocean views.

Days 13–14: Sokcho Distance: 20km Travel Time: 1 hour Situated on the eastern coast, Sokcho is widely celebrated for its white sandy coast and makes a great spot to wrap up your Korean coastal adventure. In particular, Sokcho Beach is a must-visit destination, especially in the summer, when numerous festivals and concerts liven up the city. Visitors can rent fishing equipment and try their luck on nearby Jodo Island, or head to the pier to get some fresh sushi at one of the city’s many local fish markets. Hikers will enjoy exploring Sokcho’s Seoraksan Mountain – one of Korea’s most celebrated – which features well-maintained trails and breathtaking autumn foliage.

Hyeopja e Bea ch by Jeo n Han

제주도

72 Transport

TRANSPORT

KTX Map

Train

Intercity Buses

One of the most convenient ways to travel between cities in Korea is by train. Bus schedules can vary depending on traffic, but that is hardly the case for the railroad, allowing passengers to make more exact travel plans and move to destinations on time.

Both express and intercity buses have extensive networks throughout the country, providing transportation from one city to another at reasonable prices. In addition to timely departures and arrivals, the buses are neatly maintained and have very accommodating atmosphere that offers an enjoyable ride for passengers.

Korean trains are classified based on their speed and the amenities offered onboard. There are generally seven classifications: KTX express trains, KTX-Sancheon, Saemaeul, ITX-Saemaeul, ITX-Cheongchun, Mugunghwa, and KORAIL tourist trains. The two main railway lines are Gyeongbu Line and Honam Line but other railway lines also include Jeolla and Gyeongjeon Lines, which reach as far as Yeosu and Changwon on the southern coast. For an affordable vacation traveling around Korea, the KORAIL Pass, an exclusive railway pass for foreign visitors, allows unlimited use of all trains, including KTX express trains, for a select number of days. KORAIL website: info.korail.com KORAIL PASS page: www. letskorail.com

In most cases, both the express and intercity bus terminals are located closely at the center of each city. However, in some cities, such as Seoul, the terminals are found at different locations in the city. Visitors are advised to double check the boarding location of the bus before departure. Take note that if a bus terminal name includes the word jonghap, it means that the terminal provides both express and intercity bus transportation. Bus TAGO: www.bustago.or.kr Online Reservation: txbus.t-money.co.kr

Transport 73

Subways

Subways serve as a convenient mean of transportation, probably the most favored public transportation by both Koreans and international visitors. Subways are currently available in five major cities including Seoul Metropolitan Area, Busan, Daegu, Gwangju and Daejeon. Seoul Metropolitan Area subway system rank the top in terms of size and number as it centers the city from Line 1 to 9 with additional lines, such as Sinbundang Line, Gyeongchun Line, Gyeongui Jungang Line, Ever Line, Uisinseol Line, etc., branching throughout the metropolitan area. In addition, the subway lines are color-coded for convenience, allowing passengers to use the subway with ease.

Throughout the country, city buses provide an easy way to reach any destination, with special colors or numbers to designate each route. Buses in Seoul are classified by color to designate the bus types: blue buses travel on major roads and run for relatively long distances through Seoul; green buses travel shorter distances and carry travelers between transfer points such as subway stations and longer bus routes; red buses are express buses that travel from Seoul to suburban areas; yellow buses operate on a closed circuit within a district of Seoul. Promoting this efficient management system, many other regions in Korea have also introduced similar designated bus systems to ensure the punctuality of public transportation.

In order to use subways, the first step is purchasing the right transportation card (or tickets) that meet your needs. Passengers can buy either a Single Journey Ticket or a rechargeable card like T-money, Cashbee or M-Pass for multiple uses. Single Journey Tickets cards can be purchased using a ticket vending machine and will require a security deposit.

Bus fare can be paid either by cash or transportation card when boarding. If using a transportation card, passengers can get a transfer discount when changing to the subway system or another bus line. To receive the discount, be sure to tap your card on the card reader by the exit doors before getting off the bus.

Wes t Go ld Tra i n Pi c by Jeo n Ha n

Transportation Cards Tmoney and Cashbee are transportation cards that can be used on public buses and subways in several different metropolitan cities and locations throughout the nation. With this transportation card, travelers can save the hassle of purchasing single journey subway tickets for every ride and enjoy discounts on rides during transfers from one bus to another, one subway line to another, or from bus to subway or vice versa (within a transfer time limit).

Subway Adults: with card 1,250 won / cash 1,350 won Teenagers: with card 720 won / cash 1,350 won

Blue Bus Adults: with card 1,200 won / cash 1,300 won Teenagers: with card 720 won / cash 1,000 won

74 Accommodation

ACCOMMODATION

BENIKEA

TRICK ART GUEST HOUSE

BIBIMBAP HANOK

BONUM 1957

BENIKEA hotels are located all across the country, from major metropolitan cities to charming rural towns. Each hotel offers unique features, from a convenient location, exciting nearby downtown area, or proximity to the airport to excellent ocean views, exciting hot springs, nearby ski resorts, and more.

Trick Art Guest House Hongdae offers air-conditioned accommodation in Seoul. Featuring a shared kitchen, this property also provides guests with a terrace. Located in the Mapo-Gu district, the guest house is within 5 km of Seven Luck Casino Millennium Seoul Hilton Branch.

Featuring a Ondol, Korean heated flooring, all rooms at Bibimbap Guesthouse has air conditioning and a flat-screen TV with cable and satellite channels. Traditional Korean Yo mats are provided. Private bathroom is equipped with shower facilities and a hairdryer.

Is a chic and stylish hotel that occupies a renovated hanok. The hotel has been passed down through a Korean family for generations and lovingly restored to the highest specification. The hotel offers traditional Korean accommodation if you wish to try it.

Price: Korean style single rooms start from 60€ Insadong, Seoul

Price: Rooms start at 100€ per night Bukchon Hanok Village, Seoul

BENIKEA hotel reservations can be made through the BENIKEA website (www.benikea.com)

Price: Double rooms start at 40€, beds start at 15€ Hongdae, Seoul

Accommodation 75

THE MERCURE

HI BUSAN GUEST HOUSE

MIDO HOUSE

EMPATHY GUEST HOUSE

If you want the glitz of Gangnam and the optimal location for heading out in some of Seoul’s finest bars and nightclubs without this is the perfect place for ballin’ on a budget.

It’s a great place to stay, super convenient, literally a 5-minute walk from the street to all the bars/restaurants, Mcdonalds, and the beach! The hostel has friendly staff too. Facilities are clean, and they serve a lovely breakfast. The layout of the dorm bed rooms are pretty cool, and you get your curtain with a lamplight and charger outlet.

It’s a good hotel with hipster interior, definitely a cozy place. It’s a great place for exploring Jeju island. The staff is really helpful and provides lots of information about the attractions in Jeju. The room and the bathroom are clean and big. Exceptional with great hospitality, definitely one of the best hostels in Jeju Island, Korea.

It’s an exceptional hostel with kind and helpful staff. Location is perfect for seeing the rest of Daegu, about 10-20 minute walk to the club district and shopping areas. The rooms are spacious, clean and comfortable. Truly, it is one of the best hostels in Daegu, Korea.

Price: Double room at 67€ per night Gangnam, Seoul

Price: Dorms from 12€ while Privates from 30€ Busan

Price: Dorms from €17 Jeju

Price: Dorms from €20 Daegu