Home at Work Welcome to the Fashion Village! A healthy and thriving live-work environment for fashion producing communities. Urban development and fashion innovation as powerful drivers behind increased welfare and well-being.
Mo Smit
Home at Work is a
Suzanne Loen
COCOCAN
Gideon van Toledo
project supported by
Rana Plaza Bangladesh: spotlights on fashion industries
Bandung fashion city of Indonesia
Fashion manufacturing landscape
Creative industry: fashion design by independent Bandung brands
The mayor of Bandung is an architect with sustainable ambitions for his city
Fashion industry in Indonesia
Sumatra
Distribution of textile and clothing companies by region
$ million West Java - Bandung region
57
Jakarta
17
Jakarta
Even after the decline of some of the larger factories in the 2000s, the Bandung Region has survived as a centre with the majority of factory production.
Central Java East Java
14
Central Java
6
Bali
3
Sumatra
2
Yogyakarta
1
Bali
100
West Java / Bandung Region
3% 2%1%
6%
57%
East Java
Yogyakarta
14%
3%
2%
1% Yogyakarta
East Java
Central Java
Jakarta
West Java - Bandung Region
6%
Sumatra
14%
Bali
17%
West Java - Bandung region Jakarta Central Java East Java Bali Sumatra Yogyakarta
Textile and clothing production by region Even after the decline of some of the larger 57% factories in the 2000s, the Bandung Region in West Java has survived as a fashion centre with the 17% majority of factory production of textile, apparel and footwear. Source: Clothing Production in Indonesia: A Divided Industry - Adrian Vickers* Faculty of Arts and Social Sciences University of Sydney - Indonesian Textile Association (API)
Facts on Indonesia’s clothing industry • Population (2014): 250.585.668 people (the world’s fourth most populous country) • Employment in clothing industry (2011): 1.3 million people • Clothing % of GDP (2012): 1.56% • Clothing % of export (2010): 6% (2014) 8.9% • Value clothing export (2011): 12.1 billion USD / 9.5 billion EUR • Percentage of the world market for clothing (2014): 2.9% • Clothing factories in Indonesia (2011): 2.980 clothing factories • 90% of the clothing factories are located on Java. • Minimum wage in Jakarta (2014): 2.4 million Indonesian Rupiah / $212,- / €167,• There are more than 170 foreign companies active in Indonesia’s clothing industry.
Under influence of global mass production of fashion products and the corresponding arrival of large scale factories, originally rural settlements at the periphery of Bandung have rapidly transformed into unplanned and polluted factory villages.
1980’s: arrival of large scale textile and garment factories at the urban periphery
Thousands of workers flock to the factories in search for work
Cigondewah: unplanned and polluted factory village
These factory villages, also called industrial kampungs in Indonesia, have to deal with big spatial and environmental challenges like inadequate (worker) housing, extreme water pollution, over exploitation of groundwater resources, land subsidence and floodings, lack of garbage collection services, degenerated agricultural land and outdated energy systems.
The river is used as a sewer for industrial and household waste
Inadequate and unsafe housing for workers
Public space that looks more like a garbage dump
Polluted agricultural land
In the same time the industrial kampungs are home to a socially and economically tight-knit community. Driven by economic factors original kampung inhabitants and migrant factory workers live side by side. Former farmers and fishermen nowadays make a living by sorting and trading factory textile waste or have started their own small garment workshops at home. They simultaneously take orders from the big factories and produce for their own small independent fashion brands.
Housing in the industrial kampung is informal and mostly built by local kampung families or entrepreneurs. Many homes are extended with rental rooms for factory workers, shops or workplaces. Various mixed-use housing typologies exist. Over time renting rooms to migrant workers has become an important source of income for the local community.
Worker
mixed-use typologies for working and living Housing Related To Textile Waste (Attached)
Housing Related To Migrant Worker
A House 3
Housing Related To Migrant Worker
A House 4
B House 1
Worker
he workers who lived in the rental house mostly worked at Kahatex Factory; The workers’ of Cigondewah (Center Java, East Java; West Java, etc.); Rental price Rp. 150.000/ month had lived in the rental house since 2000.
Housing Related To Textile Waste (Attached) To Migrant Worker Housing Related To Migrant Worker There areHousing a totalRelated of 7 rental units (2 units on the 1st floor and 5 rooms on the 2nd floor); Majority of the workers worked at There are a total of 6 units, and 2 communal bathroom; Some tenants worked at the factory, some had a family; The rental the factory and trades; 10 years ago the house was originally serves as private house (1st floor), then it changed it’s function house ago) was built on purpose and owned Bapak Haji Andi from RW 12 ; Building’s age was about 5 years. by installing a plywood to rental house; The rental price was Rp 200.000/ month; Renovation was conducted (1 month to repair a damaged wall.
A House 5
A House 6
B House 2
The owner’s name is Pak Ijang ; The building’s age is arround 25 years ; home ownership status; ; It is an industry of clothing and jacket making; Before living in this house, the owner lived around the area of Cigondewah; The house had stood before the owner lived there; The house next to this home industry belongs to the owner’s relative; Textiles for clothes were obtained from Caringin.
n Kahatex Factory; The rental house was built since 20 years ago; The workers and building gondewah area; The rental house was originally a private house.
hed)
Housing Related To Textile Waste (Attached)
B House 4
Housing Related To Textile Waste (Attached)
B House 5
The rental house stands on owner; PTAN land (according to Pak RW 02) with the agreement of “prepared to be evicted if the land The rental house’s owner lived in Kopo; The rental house was taken care by Cigondewah villager who’s related to the was needed.”; Consist of 3 units of rooms; the existence of communal bathroom is not visible in the building; The tenants The house consist of 2 floors, each has 6 units. 2 communal bathroom on each floor. are factory workers.
The home’s business is selling textile from one factory in Karawang, West Java ; Textile partially exported (Korea, China, etc.); total number of workers are 2 people ; The home is occupied by 2 families (10 residents) ; The house was originally functioned as a shop ; Building material and workers are supplied by the owner’s relative from RW 03 ; The house was built 9 years ago ; There was a renovation in 2008.
The rural past of the industrial kampung is still very close to the surface. Many original villagers are grown up with a circular way of thinking, because they used to live close to nature. This mind-set is very valuable in a time where we need to find answers for a fossil free world and increasing water scarcity. Off-the-grid /self-sustainable living might be a trend in western countries, but in countries like Indonesia it has never been away.
Resilient and self-sustaining rural villages of West-Java live-work environments specialised in textile crafts
Baduy community: self-sustaining rural village for working and living
So, what if local communities, living around textile and garment factories, become respected co-producers of sustainably crafted fashion products and are empowered to turn polluted manufacturing areas into healthy and self-sustaining Fashion Villages? They could become a healthy, thriving and respected community when given the chance and opportunities to fulfil their aspirations. Therefor they need help to tackle the three biggest challenges of the industrial live-work environment: • • •
polluting and resource-depleting factories inadequate and unsafe housing and workspaces degeneration of agricultural land / lack of green public spaces
approach
New Lanark Cotton Mills and Village (1784) Pioneering corporate social responsible development (Robert Owen)
Welcome to the Fashion Village! A healthy live-work environment for fashion producing communities. Urban development and fashion innovation are the powerful drivers behind increased welfare and well-being.
The Fashion Village targets the overexploitation of water, energy, materials and people by creating a community-based circular production network. Local entrepreneurs become important co-producers within the fashion supply chain, using the mother factory as a reliable backbone. The local landscape provides resources for fashion production processes while regenerating the eco-system.
A community-based production network The Fashion Village is healthy live-work environment for fashion producing communities. It functions as a community-based circular production network, tailored for the masscustomisation of sustainable fashion.
27 THE INDEPENDENT KAMPUNG WORKFORCEa
26
THE theTAILORS tailors THE ENTREPRENEUR the entrepreneur
THE TAILOR the tailor
theSEAMSTRESS seamstress &+ THE printman PRINTMAN
THE SALES the sales man ENTREPRENEUR
THE SORTERS the sorters
Image by Gabriela Pe単a Izquierdo
THE TRANSPORTERS the transporters
graduate student Architectural Engineering Faculty of Architecture and the Built Environment Delft University of Technology
Circular design approach Home at Work uses a circular design and cooperative development approach. Creating synergy between working and living.
local skills & expertise
natural resources
industrial flows & resources
waste out waste out
flows in flows in
flows in
flows in (negative) spatial impact
(negative) spatial impact
Peri-urban context asks for circular off-the-grid solutions for water, waste, energy and industrial resources.
renewable resources
flows in
flows in
renewable sources regional ecosystems
renewable resources
flows in
This offers opportunities to boost the local eco-system and flows in create synergy between living and working.
renewable sources regional ecosystems
Scales of the circular Bottom-up transformation strategy poly-centric approach connected with a shared sustainable dream
Scales of the circular poly-centric approach biogas
energy
scarcity wateruses
household
factory
enterprise
pollution
food biopore waste pit
water treatment
watercollector
floodings
2030 > city scarcity rainwater collector
solarpower
Waterstress Cigindewah/ Bandung
food garden
waste water
feacalScales wasteof the circular treatment poly-centric approach biogas
cular proach biogas
energy
scarcity
2020 > industrial kampung wateruses scale of the unit
household
factory
enterprise
pollution
food biopore waste pit
water treatment
watercollector
2015 > unit
floodings
scarcity
time
rainwater collector food
solarpower
waste water treatment
Waterstress Cigindewah/ Bandung
rainwater collector
rainwater collector
healthy city environment
flooding
Cooperative development community cooperative model model
sustainable fashion sustainable development fashion development
sustainable urban development
$ $
urban sustainable development development experts experts
sustainable development housing fund fund community Fashion Village cooperative Cooperative
$ • • • • •
development banks local government local textile factories crowdfunding ngo’s
The replicable cooperative development model of Home at Work will enable different stakeholders to participate and invest in the development.
Fashion Village stepping stones 1
Clean Mother Factory A Clean Mother Factory is a factory that minimised its environmental footprint while being a viable and profitable business. It’s a factory that filters its waste water before it enters the river. It’s a factory that harvests energy and water with its large roof surfaces. It’s a factory that shares its water, waste and energy facilities with the surrounding community. It’s a factory that takes responsibility for decent living conditions for its workers and their families.
2
1c
Fashion Shophouses A Fashion Shophouse is a self-sustaining building for working and living. It contains adequate and affordable worker homes and a collective workspace for local entrepreneurs. The building is constructed by community craftsmen from local materials like textile waste, bamboo and coconut timber. The community-owned building works like a flywheel that instigates the sustainable and inclusive development of existing informal neighborhoods.
3
3
2
Production Gardens Left-over rice paddies and public spaces within the kampung are reprogrammed as regenerative Production Gardens. These public green spaces not only serve the community from an ecological standpoint, storing rainwater and preventing flooding with bamboo forests, but also offer additional benefits such as sources for natural fibers from lotus and other plants, garments dyes from banana trees and ginger roots, and serve as chemical-free waste treatment centers.
1
Fashion Shophouse
top down corporate development
Philipsdorp Eindhoven, 1910
bottom up cooperative development
Coรถperatieve Bouwvereniging Rochdale, Amsterdam, 1920
Circular material innovation > textile enforced concrete
Re-sourcing textile sludge
Re-connecting brick making technique
Re-creating architectural design
Circular material innovation > bamboo building system
> PROTOTYPING
22 // 101
Images by Nadia Remmerswaal graduate student Architectural Engineering Faculty of Architecture and the Built Environment Delft University of Technology
21
The Industrial Phase
Regenerative production gardens
Wetland typologies: Lotus lemon fibre watergarden
Pekarangan Typologies: Pekarangan Playground
Samida Typlogies: Banana Ginger dye and fibre Garden Urban Plantation Typologies: Bamboo Fibre FLood Forest
lake artesian spring
old dug wells
shallow groundwell pumps
shallow groundwell pumps impermeable layer
Images by Nadia Remmerswaal graduate student Architectural Engineering Faculty of Architecture and the Built Environment Delft University of Technology
deep acquifer
Deep well pumps Deep well pumps
New value of the local landscape: resources for sustainable fashion and buildings
Factory roof as solar energy and water harvesting fields.
harvested energy: 196755 kWh per 1000m2 roof per year
a Clean Mother Factory (circular production)
investments
Regenerative Production Gardens (organic fibres and dyes) and water management system
costs to be researched
Production Garden per hectare ± €1.500,-
1 Fashion Shophouse €100.000,(excl. land, prototyping)
circular yields harvested water: 2 million liter per 1000m2 roof per year
Self-sufficiency will make the Fashion Village more resilient and competitive.
A community-based circular production network using the global mother factory and the local landscape as a reliable backbone.
30 ton of bamboo fibres per year per hectare
100 kg of organic dyes per year Fashion Shophouses provide collective workspace for local entrepreneurs and decent homes for (factory) workers and their families:
The long-term horizon enables lower income communities to pay back the loans obtained as monthly rents and decrease the amount they have to pay back to the Fashion Village Fund once they decide to sell their share in the Fashion Village Cooperative.
Limited fashion editions crafted by Fashion Village Cooperative
fabrics
A healthy and productive workforce living close to work.
factory fabric
sales of crops per hectare per year ± €2.500,-
rent of homes and workspace per year per shophouse €3.600,-
revenues
sales of 20.000 t-shirts per year per shophouse €100.000,-
locally rooted fabrics The clean mother factory produces locally rooted fabrics (i.e. bamboo, ramie, soybean) using circular production methods (e.g.
The sales of Fashion Products is used as an economic flywheel for the development of the Fashion Village: €5,- per t-shirt is reinvested in the sustainable development of the Fashion Village.
Fashion Village Fund
raw materials
Fashion Village Cooperative
Fashion Village Cooperative
factory owner Pak Lee local entrepreneurs Dani, Asep & Agung
local kos-kosan owners Ibu Aida & Pak Uya
factory workers Susi & Wati local builders Pak Tatang
local farmer Ibu Iin
T-shirt value case: revenues as a flywheel for transition
shop (€9,39 | 38%) - rent retail space - employees - other costs
Fashion Village (€10,00 | 40%) - sustainable development of the Fashion Village
shop profit (€1,12 | 4%)
global brand (€3,00 | 12%) - transport - online marketing & sales
global brand (€4,62 | 18%) - transport - marketing
global brand profit (€0,63 | 3%)
global brand profit (€0,63 |
taxes (€4,00 | 16%)
taxes (€4,00 | 16%) factory (€4,14 | 17%) - materials (recycled) - other costs
factory(€4,14 | 17%) - materials - other costs
factory profit (€0,52 | 2%)
factory profit (€0,52 | 2%) shirt maker (€2,50| 10%)
shirt maker (€0,58 | 2%)
traditional shirt €25,-
transitional shirt €25,-
Revenues from Fashion products as a flywheel for development How many fair and sustainable Fashion Village t-shirts need to be produced to finance one worker home in a Fashion Shophouse?
A basic calculation • Costs of 1 basic worker home (18m2): 18m2 * €350,- /m2 = €6.300,• Re-investment per t-shirt (€25,-) in the Fashion Village: €5,• Production amount of t-shirts per production line per day: ± 20 t-shirts • Amount of production lines (3 people per line) per Fashion Shophouse: 3 • Production amount of t-shirts per Fashion Shophouse per day: 60 ---------------------------------• This means that €6.300,- / €5,- = 1.260 t-shirts need to be produced to finance 1 home. • 1.260 t-shirts per home / 60 t-shirts per day = 21 days > 1 month
Fashion Village Lab Current collaboration Communities • Cigondewah community
communities communities
NGO’s • Bandung Creative City Forum (BCCF) • MVO Nederland designers & designers consultants consultants
businesses businesses
A real live testing ground and
Knowledge institutes platform where all parties who • Institut Teknologi Bandung • Delftshare University Teknologi thisof vision from all sectors
are invited to join.
Fashion Lab Home Village at Work
Living Lab
knowledge
knowledge institutes institutes & ngo’s
governments governments
Governments • Kota Bandung • Kelurahan Cigondewah Kaler Businesses • Alliander • Philips Designers & consultants • COCOCAN & partners (Toledo, SL Studio) • Smart City Collective (Krill, SHAU, Emic-K, etc)
Imagine the Fashion Village Bandung in 10 years. Birds sing and children play hide and seek in the bamboo fibre forest. On the riverbank, in one of the collective Production Gardens Ibu Yen and her sister harvest bark for organic textile dyes from the mango trees and pick fruit to sell on the market. In the vibrant streets you will find beautiful Fashion Shophouses built from locally sourced materials. Inside Pak Asep and his apprentices dye T-shirts with a funky batik print for a sustainable limited fashion collectione. Upstairs factory worker Wati has a decent home and grows herbs and peppers on the spatious gallery.
Thank you very much! Please join the Fashion Village Lab
You can reach us at: info@cococan.nl www.homeatwork.co
Mo Smit
Home at Work is a
Suzanne Loen
COCOCAN
Gideon van Toledo
project supported by