Novi Sad by Sasa Sladoja

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

NOVI SAD July - December 2009

EXIT FESTIVAL

Celebrate the jubilee with us N°2 www.inyourpocket.com

International Festival of Street Musicians Carnival touch in Novi Sad

Contents

E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Contents Arriving in Novi Sad

In praise of laid-back life

The Basics

History

Culture & Events

EXIT Festival 2009

A visitor‘s impression

Salaš 137

Where to stay

Sweet Dreams

Restaurants

Slow food movement

Cafés

Making New Friends

Nightlife

Tamburitsa, Wine & Clubing

What to see

Petrovaradin Fortress

Mail & Phones

Getting around

Heaven on Earth for cyclist

Lifestyle Directory

Gifts & Souvenirs

Maps&Index City centre map Country map Index & Street register

48 50 51

July - December 2009

Foreword Novi Sad, second largest city in Serbia (350 000 inhabitants), is the capital of Vojvodina. Its owns its world reputation to one the best European festivals - the famous Exit Festival. Every July tens of thousands visitors come to Novi Sad. Everybody is relaxed (there’s no stressful rush in Novi Sad), toplevel acoustic at the fortress enable different events to be really near to each other without sound mixing, and it’s not surprising Novi Sad is the location of the festival. But, besides Exit, this city has a lot to offer, namely: Petrovaradin fortress (one of the best preserved monuments of military architecture), Fruška Gora national park, surrounding salašes for relaxation, restaurants for gourmands, never-closing night-clubs, and Štrand, one of the best beaches the Danube has to offer. By the end of the summer, we will be dancing well after dawn with thousands of festival goers, join IFUS performers on streets and squares, run the marathon, and enjoy music of jazz masters at Novi Sad Summer Festival. Welcome to Novi Sad!

Europe In Your Pocket

Cover story Novi Sad will once again meet tens of thousands festival goers. This being the 10th Exit festival, a lot has changed in the city: the Varadine bridge is now li t wi th a t tracti ve ligh t, Petrovaradin fortress (one of the most important and best preserved monuments of military architecture on around 112 hectares) has new stages and a new camp on the Danube, the longest river in the European Union. One of the largest music festivals will be held from July 9-12 and everybody will be dancing to the festival beat. Come and dance with us!

E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Novi Sad In Your Pocket Živojina Žujovića 24 11000 Belgrade, Serbia Tel. (+38111)383 00 50 (+38111)38 22 022 Fax.(+38111)38 22 888 digital.creat@sezampro.rs www.inyourpocket.com ©Bg Info Box CIP - Katalogiyacija u publikaciji Narodna biblioteka Srbije, Beograd ISSN 1820 - 7693 COBISS.SR-ID 149764876

Novi Sad In Your Pocket

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July - December 2009

ARRIVING IN NOVI SAD By plane

The nearest airport is in Belgrade - Nikola Tesla Airport, about 70km away from Novi Sad. The arrivals hall houses car rentals, an exchange office open 24hrs, several ATMs, and there is a currency exchange machine available in Terminal 1. There is no difference in currency exchange rates at the airport and in the city. Jat Airways lost luggage is handled by Su-Port service, tel. 267 63 74, and the lost luggage of other air carriers by Lost & Found airport service, tel. 209 48 54, which will deliver the found luggage to any address in the city. You can call home from a Halo telephone booth, using Halo magnetic cards, available at news stands at the airport. Terminal 2 departure hall features a post office and an internet café, open 07:30 - 18:30, Sat 08:00 - 14:00, Closed Sun. From the airport, you can reach Novi Sad in two ways: getting to Belgrade first and then getting a coach to Novi Sad, (time consuming) or hiring one of Novi Sad taxi operators, whose services you must book beforehand (quick and simple). To get to Belgrade, you can take a Jat Airways shuttle, whose departures coincide with arrivals of that airline, or a public transport bus or you can take a taxi. Ignore the pushy taxi drivers accosting travellers at arrivals hall, because they will rip you off. The best advice would be to call a taxi (ask someone to do it for you) and your taxi will arrive in front of the terminal building in a few minutes. The ride to the Old Town takes about 20 min, and the price should not exceed 15 EUR (except on weekends and public holidays). The number of passengers or luggage should not affect the price of the ride. Some of taxi companies: Lux taxi, tel. (+38111) 303 31 23, Beotaxi, tel. (+38111) 970, Beogradski taxi, tel. (+38111) 9801. Taxi transfer from Nikola Tesla Airport to Novi Sad: Genelex, tel. (+38121)472 24 92. Van service. Seats 8. Advance booking. Price 75€/per van, regardless of number of passengers. Heligon, tel. (+38164)232 08 16, (+38121)633 97 71. Car service. Ride takes one hour. Advance booking. Price 35€/ per car, regardless of number of passengers. Pan taxi, tel. (+38163)55 55 30, (+38164)215 55 55. Car service. Ride takes one hour. Advance booking. Price 45€/ per car, regardless of number of passengers. If you use low-budget air carriers (such as Easy Jet, Wiz Air, Air Berlin, Sky Europe…) you can fly in to Budapest (capital of neighbouring Hungary, 380km away), and take a taxi, train or coach to Novi Sad. Taxi transfer from Budapest to Novi Sad: Genelex, tel. (+38121)472 24 92. Van service. Seats 8. Advance booking. Price 280€/per van, regardless of number of passengers. Heligon taxi, tel. (+38164)232 08 16, (+38121)633 97 71. Car service. Advance booking. Price 110€/per car, regardless of number of passengers. Pan taxi, tel. (+38163)55 55 30, (+38165)215 55 55. Car service. Advance booking. Price 150€/per car, regardless of number of passengers.

By car

E-75 motorway runs close to Novi Sad, and E-70 motorway is 70km further down towards Belgrade. Foreign drivers in Serbia need international driving license, vehicle registration certificate, and insurance policy. The valid insurance policies are issued by countries signatories to ‘Vehicle Insurance Convention’, and citizens of other countries are required on entering Serbia to buy an insurance policy. Speed limit in the city is set at 60 km/h unless otherwise indicated by speed signs. Permitted Blood Alcohol Level is 0.5 g/l.

Novi Sad In Your Pocket

Street smarts street - ulica alley - sokak square - trg boulevard - bulevar

highway - autoput road - put quay - kej bridge - most

By train

Novi Sad is one of the stops on international ViennaBudapest-Belgrade-Istanbul route. The Budapest-Novi Sad leg is about 5 hours long. The Railway Station, located not very far from the town centre, offers exchange offices, ATMs, telephone booths. Avoid the taxi sharks waiting on the semicircular driveway in front of the station building and if you want a taxi hail one a little down the street, or go to the taxi rank located on the parking to the left of the driveway. In front of the station building, you will easily find bus stops. Bus line Nº4 will take you to the centre of the town. The Railway Station is located at the beginning of Bulevar Oslobođenja B-2, traversing the entire town, so it should be fairly easy to get around with a little help of the map..

Important phone numbers Police: 92 Fire Department: 93 Ambulance: 94 Road assistance: 987

By bus

Novi Sad has two bus stations for international travel: the old one – the Central Bus Station located right next to the Railway Station at the beginning of Bulevar Oslobođenja B-2, (take bus Nº4 to get to the centre of the town) and the new one - ATP Vojvodina Bus Station at the corner of Sentandrejski put and Put novosadskog partizanskog odreda Streets (a little further away, bus Nº1 runs to the centre of the town). Where you will end up depends on your bus operator. Novi Sad is well served by a nationwide network of bus routes, and there are bus departures to Belgrade every half hour or less until midnight (tickets from 435 till 700 dinars), so you can use all the international routes linking Belgrade to major cities in Europe.

By boat

Sailing the Danube is the most scenic route to Novi Sad. Commercial boats dock at the pier near Varadinski Bridge near the centre of the town. Piers for private yachts and boats: 1,255km - Harbour Captain’s office, tel. (+38121)52 66 84, 52 84 57 1,263.5km - Market Tours Information Centre for Nautical Tourism, Kamenjar, tel. (+38121)46 84 09 1,257.8km - Liman Marina C-3, Sunčani kej bb, tel. (+38165)29 27 789

Tourist information Tourist Oraganisation of Novi Sad Bulevar Mihajla Pupina 9 C-2, tel. 42 18 11, 45 14 81. e-mail: ticns@nadlanu.com 4Open 08:30-19:00, Sat 08:30-13:30, Closed Sun.

Basics Population

Serbia (2002, without Kosovo and Metohija province) 7,498,001, Novi Sad (2002) 298,139. Ethnic composition (2002, without Kosovo and Metohija province): Serbs 82,86%, Hungarians 3,91%, Bosniacks 1,82%, Roma 1,44%, others 9,97%. The official language is Serbian, with Cyrillic being the official script, but the Latin script is equally used. Hungarian, Slovakian and Ruthenian languages and their scripts are also in official use in Novi Sad.

National holidays 1-2 January - New Year’s Days 7 January - Christmas (Orthodox) 15 February - Statehood Day in Serbia 17-19 April - Easter (Orthodox, from Big Friday to second day of Easter) 1 May - Labour Day 9 May - Victory Day (commemorative day)

Local time

Serbia is in the Central European Time Zone: GMT + 1 hours (in winter), GMT + 2 during daylight saving. When it is noon in Novi Sad it is: 11:00 in London, 06:00 in New York, 21:00 in Sydney and 14:00 in Moscow.

Money

The Serbian currency is the dinar (RSD). The first mention of a ‘Serbian dinar’ dates back to 1214. Each dinar is divided into 100 paras, no longer in use, thus prices at shops are rounded off. Coins come in the following denominations: 1, 2, 5, 10 and 20 dinars. The banknotes come in denominations of 10, 20, 50, 100, 200, 500, 1.000 and 5.000 dinars. National currency is pegged to Euro. You can change money in a bank or any of the exchange offices dotting the town (they are marked with the logo of the National Bank of Serbia). The differences in exchange rates are negligible. Most banks in Novi Sad will change travellers cheques, American Express, Thomas Cook, VISA and Eurocheques. Western Union money transfers from abroad can be collected from the post office and most banks. You can buy almost all goods and services with bank cards, and you need cash only for green markets, kiosks, and paying the parking. Throughout the town, there is a large number of ATMs where you can collect money 24h. Cards widely acceptable in Novi Sad are VISA, VISA Electron, MasterCard, Eurocard, Maestro, Diners Club and local DinaCard. American Express has recently been introduced to Serbian market, and a rather limited number of shops and ATMs will accept it.

Religion

Orthodox Christianity is the major religion. Serbian Orthodox Church became autonomous in 1219. Other important religious communities are Muslim, Catholic and Jewish, and Methodist Evangelical and Reformed communities also have a fair number of followers.

Geography

Serbia covers an area of 88,361km2. It has land borders with Bosnia and Herzegovina, Croatia, Hungary, Romania, Bulgaria, FYR Macedonia, Albania and Montenegro. The highest peak is Midžor (2169m) on Old Mountain (Stara planina). The Danube flows 588km through Serbia, the Sava River 206km, and the Drina River forms most of the border to the West (220km). Another important Serbian river is Great Morava (185km), created by the confluence of Western Morava (308km) and Southern Morava (295km). Novi Sad lies on the Danube River

 The Novi Sad telephone code is +381 21

Smoking

In Novi Sad, coffee and cigarettes are generally considered a perfect way to start the day, so it is small wonder that smoking is allowed in all restaurants and cafés. The problem here is how to find a place with a non-smoking area. Smoking is outlawed only in public premises (banks, post offices, hospitals, etc).

Health

Tap water is safe to drink. The estimated number of AIDS cases is low. Doctors and medical staff in state-run hospitals are professional and reliable, and you need not worry about their skills if you should get ill. The worrisome part are poor maintenance of state run hospitals, which is a consequence of insufficient funds, and the red tape involved in hospital admission. If you have a minor health problem, you are well advised to visit a private practice so as to avoid an agonizing wait.

Local laws & Police

You will be required to declare money (including travellers’ cheques) in excess of €10,000 (or equivalent in other currencies) that you bring into Serbia. Prostitution and use of drugs are illegal, so try and stay out of trouble, and anyway,

July - December 2009

Basics

being a foreigner, you may not be able to spot out plainclothes police officers. Police in full riot gear are a regular sight at football matches, and that should not alarm you.

Homosexuality

A public display of homosexual affection is unacceptable in Serbia. Declared homosexuals are tolerated as long as they don’t show their affections in the street, which could provoke an aggressive reaction from an onlooker. There are no gay clubs in Novi Sad, so they go to ‘straight’ clubs. There are gay/lesbian associations, for more info visit www. gay-serbia.com

Market values Exchange rates (on June 27 2009.): US$1 = 66.89, €1 = 93.87, UK£1 = 109.59 McDonald’s Big Mac 190din. €2.02 1kg of beef 530din. €5.65 10 eggs 120din. €1.30 Loaf of white bread 38din. €0.40 Snickers bar 46din. €0.49 Bottle of local beer (1/2 litre) 38din. €0.40 20 Marlboros 135din. €1.44 Public transport ticket 40din. €0.43

Visas

If you are a citizens of the EU, Norway, Switzerland, USA, Israel, Japan, Russia, Canada, Argentina, Australia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Croatia, Cuba, Republic of Korea, you can enter Serbia without a visa and may stay in the country for 90 days. Citizens of other countries must obtain a visa from a Serbian consulate before travelling. Within 12 hours of your arrival in Serbia, you are required to register with the nearest police station. If you are staying in a hotel or hostel, they will automatically do that for you. Failure to register carries a massive fine. For all the details on how to extend your stay or procure a working permit, contact the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, Directorate of Consular Affairs in Belgrade, Kneza Miloša 24-26, tel. 306 82 68 or Novi Sad Town Police (Department for Foreigners) BBB, Bulevar kralja Petra I 11, tel. 488 40 00.

Toilets

Public toilets in Novi Sad are hard to find. The existing ones are fairly decent and can be found next to the Town Hall on Kralja Aleksandra Street, in Dunavski Park, at Sports and Business Centre Vojvodina on Sutjeska Street C-2 and at bus and train stations, open 06:00-20:00. If the need to go comes on whilst you are strolling round the town, you can use the toilet in the nearby café or restaurant.

Safety

Novi Sad is a fairly safe place. There is not a single part of the town where a girl should not walk on her own in the middle of the night. You may come across stray dogs, but they are generally minding their own business and not giving anyone a trouble.

Disabled travellers

Most hotels, restaurants and cafés are inaccessible to disabled patrons and hardly any offers toilet facilities for the disabled.

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Guided tours Novi Sad Autoturist C-2, Mite Ružića 2, tel. 52 38 63 Donna Vista C-2, Dunavska 6, tel. 42 61 26 Elnostours C-2, Maksima Gorkog 10, tel. 52 82 44 Market tours B-3, Bulevar Cara Lazara 55, tel. 636 76 12 Magelan corporation C-2, Zmaj Jovina 23, tel. 472 40 88, 662 48 23

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Novi Sad In Your Pocket

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www.inyourpocket.com

history 4500 BC First settlement established in the area of the present Petrovaradin Fortress. 3000 BC First wooden fortifications erected around the settlement. 6th century Slavic tribes colonise the Balkans. Slavs embrace Christianity in 9th century. 1247 Hungary builds a fortress at the site of the present Petrovaradin Fortress. 1526 Fortress occupied by Ottoman Turkey. 1687 Fortress occupied by Austrians. 1692 Petrovaradin Fortress construction begins. On the opposite bank of the Danube river, at the location of the present Novi Sad, a settlement springs up, composed of Serbs, Jews, Greece and Germans, as non-Catholics were banned from residing within the limits of the Fortress’ Lower Town. The settlement was initially called Raitzenstadt (Serb Town) and Petrovaradinski šanac (Petrovaradin Ditch). 1703 The first Serbian National School opens in Novi Sad. 1748 Affluent Serbs start raising money and buy for Novi Sad the status of the free royal city from Maria Theresia, Queen of Hungary and other territories. Maria Theresia renames the town as Neoplanta (Latin), Uj-Videgh (Hungarian), Novi Sad (Serbian). 1820 Novi Sad has a population of 20,000. It is a cultural and political centre of Serbs, who do not have their own national state at the time. Poets hail it as the Athens of Serbia. Almost every Serbian novelist, poet, jurist and publicist of note at the end of 19th century and at the beginning of 20th century live or work in Novi Sad some time of their career. 1848 Hungarians demand national rights and autonomy within the Austrian Empire. Confronted with new Hungarian authorities and wishing to express their own national individuality, Serbs in their turn proclaim Serbian Vojvodina (Serbian Duchy). Hungarian government replies by use of force. In 1849, the Hungarian army located on the Petrovaradin for tress shells and ravages the town, killing many of its inhabitants. After the defeat of the revolution in 1849, the Austrian Emperor adopts a new constitution, guaranteeing Serbs broader rights and religious freedoms. 1861 Serbian National Theatre, the oldest professional theatre among the South Slavs, is founded in Novi Sad. 1864 Matica Srpska, the oldest cultural-scientific institution of Serbia, is moved from Budapest to Novi Sad. 1914 Outbreak of the First World War. Petrovaradin Fortress serves as prison for arrested Serbs and POWs. 1918 Following the defeat of Austria-Hungary, Army of the Kingdom of Serbia enters Novi Sad. Grand Assembly of Serbs, Bunjevci, and other nations of Vojvodina in Novi Sad proclaims the union of Vojvodina region with the Kingdom of Serbia. Serbs, Croats and Slovenes unite into one state - Yugoslavia. 1929 Novi Sad becomes the capital of the Danube Banovina, a province of the Kingdom of Yugoslavia. 1934 King Aleksandar of Yugoslavia visits Marseille in a bid to strengthen a defence union with France against Germany and is assassinated by Croatian Ustashe. 1941 The 27th March protests erupt against joining the Axis (Germany - Italy - Japan). Following a coup d’etat, 17-yer-old Crown Prince Petar assumes the throne. Nazi Germany attacks Yugoslavia on 6th April without declaration of war. The King and the government go into exile. Emergence of two Serbian resistance movement - chetnicks of Draža Mihailović and Tito’s partisans. Yugoslav territory is divided between Germany, Italy, Bulgaria, Hungary and Independent State of Croatia. Novi Sad is occupied by Hungarian fascists. 1942 In the course of three days in January, Hungarian fascists conduct a raid in Novi Sad, force more then 1,300 Serbs and Jews out of their homes and kill them. Most of the bodies were thrown into the Danube.

1944 Red Army units and Yugoslav partisans liberate Novi Sad. 1945 Toll of war is 1,700,000 deaths, chiefly among Serbs. Monarchy is abolished, Federal People’s Republic of Yugoslavia is proclaimed, and Josip Broz Tito is officially installed in power. Most of German population leaves Novi Sad. In the post-war period, Novi Sad becomes the capital of Vojvodina region, grows rapidly and develops into an important centre of political, cultural and sporting life. Crown Prince Aleksandar, son to King Peter II is born in Claridges Hotel in London. 1980 Josip Broz Tito dies. Yugoslavia is now governed by ‘Presidency’ comprised of 8 members (6 from the republics and 2 from Serbian provinces). 1991 Ethnic and political divisions lead to the collapse of Yugoslavia. Slovenia and Croatia declare independence, civil war erupts. Crown Prince Aleksandar II visits Serbia for the first time in his life. 1992 European Community recognises Croatia and Bosnia. Federal Republic of Yugoslavia is proclaimed. UN Security Council imposes economic embargo on Yugoslavia over its support to Serbs in Croatia and Bosnia who want to unify with federal Yugoslavia. 1993 The highest hyperin flation in the histor y - a 500,000,000,000 dinar note is printed in Serbia. 1994 End of hyperinflation, new dinar introduced. 1995 In the aftermath of Croatian war, around 300,000 Serb refugees leave Croatia for Serbia. 1996 Massive protests against Slobodan Milošević over electoral fraud at local elections. 1999 Long-lasting aspirations of Kosovo Albanians to secede from Serbia escalate in violent conflicts between Serbs and Albanians in Kosovo. The NATO forces bomb Serbia for three months, without endorsement of the UN Security Council. Slobodan Milošević is accused of crimes against humanity during the wars of Yugoslav succession. In June, following a piece agreement, NATO troops are stationed in Kosovo and Metohija. Around 200,000 Kosovo Serbs find refuge in Serbia. During the 78 days of bombing, Novi Sad is left without all of its three Danube bridges, communications, water, and electricity. Žeželj Bridge, the first bridge made of prestressed concrete in Europe, the second in the world, takes direct hits on four different days, before it finally collapses into the water, hit again by six missiles. Residential areas are cluster bombed several times while its oil refinery is bombarded daily, causing severe pollution and widespread ecological damage. The bombing of the refinery causes fires which burn 50,000 tons of crude oil, enveloping Novi Sad in black smoke 20 0 0 Sl ob odan Mil oševi ć is ousted amidst h u ge demonstrations over electoral fraud. Relations with European countries and the US improve. 2003 Federal Republic of Yugoslavia is replaced by State Union of Serbia and Montenegro. Serbian Prime Minister, Zoran Đinđić, is assassinated by a criminal clan. The clearance of the debris, the remains of the bridges destroyed during the NATO strikes, is completed and the Danube again becomes navigable. 2004 Before the eyes of NATO and UN forces, around 50,000 Albanians launch orchestrated attacks on remaining Serbian villages in Kosovo and torch Serbian houses. In less than 48 hours, Albanians desecrate and destroy 30 Serbian churches and monasteries. 2006 State Union of Serbia and Montenegro ceases to exist. Serbia is again an independent state. 2007 Negotiations between Serbia and Kosovo Albanians about the status of Kosovo. Serbia is offering broad autonomy, Albanians desire nothing less than independence. The international community is divided over this issue. 2008 With support of the USA and some of the EU countries,

July - December 2009

HISTORY Albanians from Kosovo and Metohija province of Serbia declare independence from Serbia. The international community is still divided over this issue - some countries have recognised Kosovo independence, some are against it. Serbian leadership does not want an armed conflict and is striving to prevent the secession of its province through diplomatic and political means. Massive protests are staged throughout Serbia. Around 500,000 people are gathered in Belgrade at peaceful demonstrations and prayer against Kosovo independence, while several hundreds of youngsters demolish and burn the emptied building of the US Embassy.

Political framework

Serbia is a parliamentary republic. The Serbian Parliament has 250 seats. The MPs are elected for a term of 4 years, the President is elected to serve a 5-year term. The most recent parliamentary elections were held in January 2007 and the presidential elections in January 2008. The current President is Boris Tadić of the Democratic Party, and the Prime Minister is Mirko Cvetković. Democratic Party, together with G17 Plus and Socialist Party of Serbia (deceased Slobodan Milošević’s party) form the ruling government coalition. The major opposition parties are the Serbian Radical Party (the single strongest party in Serbia), Democratic Party of Serbia and Liberal Democratic Party.

Josip Broz Tito Tito is a mystery man who ruled supreme over Yugoslavia for 35 years. Secretary General of the Communist Party of Yugoslavia, leader of one of two resistance movements during WW2, life-long president of Yugoslavia and founder of Non-Aligned Movement. German occupation of Serbia and the flight of the King and the Government from the country played neatly to his advantage, as he prepared the way for a communist rule during the anti-fascist struggle. In the aftermath of the war, he banned the King from returning to the country and lived his life regally. A charmer and womaniser, a hedonist of sophisticated tastes, he was a darling to the proletariat, Hollywood stars, communist dictators and European aristocracy alike. Churchill himself, who cordially detested communists, sipped his breakfast bubbly with him. Unlike other countries of the eastern bloc, Yugoslavia was never behind the “iron curtain”. Tito defied Stalin’s directives and decided that it would best suit Yugoslavia to pursue its own socialist model. In response, Stalin kicked Yugoslavia out of the socialist camp, and imposed economic boycott. Several years later, Nikita Khrushchev, Stalin’s successor in the Soviet Union, visited Tito in Belgrade and penitently asked for reconciliation. Khrushchev was stunned by lavish soirées and the lifestyle at White Palace. Yugoslavia fostered good relations with all the countries in the world and Yugoslavs had the best of the two worlds and travelled freely worldwide, which made them the envy of eastern bloc countries. Tito’s funeral drew the largest number of statesmen in history (from 127 different nations). It also marked the beginning of the collapse of Yugoslavia.

Novi Sad In Your Pocket

BGinfoBox Živojina Žujovića 24, Tel. +381 11 38 300 50 www.bginfobox.com

Culture & Events

EXIT Festival July 9-12 Petrovaradin fortress â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Novi Sad EXIT festival takes place in Novi Sad every July. The tenth Exit festival will once again be held at the magical Petrovaradin fortress. The first Exit festival, organized by students from Novi Sad, lasted 100 days and during that period, 34 large concerts were held featuring the biggest local bands, 12 theatrical performances, more than 120 films were shown (some were premiered in Novi Sad), 20 stands, 40 huge parties, 11 performances were held. And then everything changed. Two years ago Exit won UK Festival Award: Best Festival on the Continent. MTV and BBC Radio have traditionally supported the festival from 2004. Number of visitors increases each year and now more than 50 000 people visit the festival every day. The fortress offers top-level acoustic enabling different events to be really near to each other without sound mixing.

Useful Info

Tickets for 10th Exit festival are available at www.gigstix. com, Gigstix selling points and branch offices of Erste bank. Purchased ticket cannot be returned, and in case you lose it or forget to take with you, entrance to the fortress will not

be allowed. Beverages, food (since available at the festival), umbrellas, pets, narcotics or weapons are not allowed, while backpacks (maximum the size of a school backpack) are ok. The gates open at 5 p.m., the entrance is available until 3 a.m., and only one entrance per day is allowed. Cars are not allowed, so most visitors cross the Danube bridge on foot. If transport of your choice is a taxi or a bus (No 3), it will take you just after the bridge, and then you have to continue on foot. No phone boots or places to leave your things are available at the festival, so take only the necessary. On the other hand, ATM machines and numerous information points are at your disposal. Pipe water is not for drinking, and cameras and photo cameras are allowed only with press accreditation. Thirsty? Change your money into Tokens, State of Exitâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s official currency, and then exchange them for food or drinks. Each of the Token coins is worth the amount of a certain drink, cannot be exchanged back to dinars. To buy food or other items on the festival site you can use the local currency of dinars. Line up and the performance times are subject to change. Exit has 28 stages with more than 600 performers, and the unforeseen may occur.

Stages

28 stages in total and 7 largest. The heart of Exit and largest of the stages is the Main Stage, with the capacity of 35 000 people. Dance Arena, on several occasions proclaimed best dance arena in the whole of Europe, is second in size and has the capacity of 25 000 people. Exclusive line-up, backto-back performances of the biggest DJ stars of today can be expected at Dance Arena this year. Fusion Stage, with a capacity of 10,000 visitors is the second largest concert stage reserved for not only the best performers from the region but from the world as well. World Stage is this year Suba Stage, thus paying respect to Mitar SubotiÄ&#x2021; Suba, a producer, composer, multi

July - December 2009

Culture & Events Main Stage July 9 19:30 – 04:00 Darkwood Dub,Lily Allen, Roots Manuva, Arctic Monkeys, Caspa & Rusko + Rod Azlan, Sub Focus + MC Jakes.

instrumentalist and a researcher. Explosive Stage, the most extreme of all the stages, this year presents 40 bands from all over the world. 5000 Explosive fans will listen to Metal, HC and Punk. Happynovisad Stage with the capacity of 4000 people is always an alternative to the ones who like to try out something new in electronic sound. Battery Elektrana, a stage for the ones ready to experiment, explore and search for new musical treasure.

EXIT Camp

July 10 19:00 – 04:00 Zoster, Fucked Up, Manic Street Preachers,Overdrive, KoRn, Andy C & MC GQ, DJ Marky & MC Dynamite. July 11 20:15 – 04:00 Patti Smith, Kraftwerk, Moby, Grandmaster Flash, Fabio & Grooverider +MC Rage July 12 20:15 – 04:00 Ebony Bones, Obojeni program, Madness, The Prodigy, Chase feat MC I.D. + Status with Plan B, Bryan Gee & Kenny Kenn + MC Skibadee.

Exit camp also celebrates tenth anniversary. This year, the camp site is placed at the right bank, on the side of the fortress, on the beach called “Officer’s beach”. The camp gates open on July 6 at 8:00, and close on July 15 at 16:00. Camp wrist band that allows the entrance to the camp, can be bought via www.exitfest.org or at the camp reception, provided you show the ticket for the festival and your ID. Take your tents and sleeping bags and leave valuable objects at the reception. Numerous toilettes, closed showers with hot water, sinks, WiFi and Internet café, swimming, 24/7 monitoring and camp stuff help available. Food and drinks available at Foodland.

EXIT Trip

Book your transportation and accommodation (apartment, hotel, hostel) during the festival and get necessary information at the official Exit Tourist service. www. exittrip.org “The Best of Novi Sad” is the official tourist Exit Festival brochure providing festival-goers and Novi Sad visitors with important information on the festival and the city. EUFEST Coming to Exit festival and need bus transfers from Zagreb, Split or Budapest, bus transport or accommodation or just a bit of friendly advice? Eufest, the original Exit festival transport company provides you with what you need. www. eufest.com

Mts:Dance Arena July 9 21:30 – 06:00 Dark Angel , Dee Face b2b Vladimir Acic, Reboot live, Steve Lawler b2b Lee Burridge, Sasha b2b John Digweed, James Zabiela b2b Nic Fanciulli. July 10 21:00 – 06:00 Tijana T, Vlada Janjić b2b Gordan Paunović, Heidi b2b Justin Martin, Gui Boratto live, Richie Hawtin b2b Dubfire, Loco Dice b2b Magda. July 11 21:00 – 05:30 Flip b2b MKDSL, Hannah Holland b2b Tayo, Kissy Sell Out b2b Alex Metric, Etienne de Crecy live, Steve Angello b2b Sebastian Ingrosso, Eric Prydz b2b Adam Beyer July 12 21:30 – 06:30 Subotić, Paul Woolford b2b Yousef ,Marko Nastić b2b Valentino Kanzyani, The Japanese Popstars live, Sander Kleinenberg b2b Darren Emerson, Carl Cox b2b Green Velvet.

www.inyourpocket.com Novi Sad In Your Pocket

Culture & Events Fusion Stage July 9 20:00 – 03:50 Bernays Propaganda, Pop-Ups, Repetitor, Partibrejkers, The Herbaliser, Majke, E Play July 10 20:00 – 03:50 Sweeper, Gravity Co., Elemental, Orthodox Celts, Max Romeo, Hladno Pivo,zZz July 11 20:00 – 04:15 Stillness,Jarboli, Stalingrad Cowgirls, Dubioza Kolektiv, Milan Mumin & Undercover Maniacs, Baloji, Delinquent Habits, Lollobrigida July 12 19:15 – 04:00 Slaptrap, The MOOod, Nežni Dalibor, Elvis Jackson, Marčelo, Buzzcocks, Mando Diao, , Atheist rap.

Suba stage July 9 20:30 – 01:00 Ritchaz & Kéke, Macacos do Chinês, Buraka Som Sistema LIVE, Addictive TV, DJ Marfox July 10 19:00 – 01:00 Modern Quartet, Katia B, Cibelle, Trio Mocotó, DJ Jazzmate July 11 19:00 – 02:30 Knalpot, Eboman, The Moi Non Plus, DJ Cinnaman, DJ Juha, DJ Rob Da Bank July 12 19:00 – 02:30 R Point, Horkestar, Vuneny, These Monsters, Fedayi Pacha, Amon Tobin

Explosive Stage July 9 19:00 – 03:20 Ormus, Infest, Rising Dream, Annathema, Keep of Kalessin, Kataklysm, Death Angel, Casket Garden, The Stone, Draconic July 10 19:00 – 03:55 Sangre Eterna, Obscured, Hetera, The Revenge Project, Dweal, Hobsons Choice, Never Lost, My Dying Bride, May Result, Dickless Tracy July 11 19:00 – 03:30 Monument, Nadimač, Rain Delay, Oblomov, Amon Din, Sabaton, Deathstars, Dreddup, Omega Lithium, Abonos, July 12 19:00 – 03:45 Blank File, The Voldera Cult, Descending, Defeater, Comeback Kid, The Red Chord, Walls Of Jericho, Deadrise, Lock Down, Vrisak generacije

Tuborg Happynovisad Stage July 9 22:00 – 05:30 Scalamerya, Jan Nemeček Live!, Raresh (Arpiar), Pedro (Arpiar), Rhadoo (Arpiar), Nikola Majdanović July 10 22:00 – 05:00 KPK, Double B, Noiz, N-Type, Hatcha, Blakansky aka Cooh July 11 22:00 – 05:30 Cnfsn DJs, Sinden, Fake Blood, Ahmaad, Billain July 12 22:00 – 04:00 Mile Hund, mk vs NubiS, Orgasmic, Surkin, Das Glow

Battery Elektrana July 9 18:00 – 02:30 Elektrana radio, Sixth June, Surreal Eternity, Blame, Faderhead, Albert Diehl, Colony 5, Gavra July 10 18:00 – 05:00 Elektrana radio, Kalson, Caligari, Dagobert, Bass Junkie, Direct Control, Diplomat + Lloyd da Zoyd, H!, Alavux July 11 18:00 – 04:00 Elektrana radio, Dj Retro + Dj Vito, Toy Corner, Toby Trashcotheque, Trike, Mixel, Felony Flatz, Lo-Fi-Fnk, Symbol One, Banana Rave July 12 18:00 – 02:30 Elektrana radio, Stangliczky, Mekonin, Dragan Vukmirović, Näd Mika, Dead Trash Superstar, Gucci SoundSystem, Hadouken! Dj set

100Din. = €1.06; GBP0.91; US$1.49 (27 June 2009) July - December 2009

Culture & Events Performers –Main stage

Arvizu and Ray Luzier, members of this California-based metal band, play on July 10 for the first time in Serbia. Eight albums and two live albums sold in over 30 million copies, a “Grammy” award and a lot of energy guarantee good performance, so get ready for some serious head banging. www.korn.com Kraftwerk July 11 is reserved for Kraftwerk (a powerhouse in German), the revolutionary band with strong influence on the development of electro music. Emil Shult, painter and poet, in charge of the visual identity of the group, Ralf Hutter, Friz Hilpert and Henning Schmitz (Florian Schneider is not coming), will be on stage continuing the search for new music and proving once again that a computer is a musical instrument. www.kraftwerk.com

Arctic Monkeys Popular punk-rockers from Sheffield are authors of the most popular début album (“Whatever People Say I Am, That ‘s What I‘m Not”). Alex Turner, guitar and vocals, Jamie Cook, guitar, Nick O’Malley, bass and Matt Helders, drums, are said to be the best live performers. Be there and check for yourself. www.articmonkeys.com KoRn Jonathan Davis, James „Munky“ Shaffer, Reginald „Fieldy“

Novi Sad In Your Pocket

Culture & Events Lily Allen This young woman (only 24), one of the most popular British singers, with singles on top of world charts, famous for provocative and direct lyrics, will help EXIT celebrate 10th anniversary, and have fireworks named after her. www. lillyallenmusic.com

Daniel Woodgate and Mike Bedford come to Exit. www. madness.co.uk Moby The keyboard, guitar or drums, all is possible with this American musician aged 43, playing at EXIT festival on July 11. This talented musician writes, plays and produces his own music proving his great talent. www.moby.com Patti Smith Entering the world of music in early 70s, and rock ‘n’ roll hall of fame in 2007, this godmother of punk music and one of the most important characters in r ‘n’ r, plays the non-commercial music on EXIT stage on July 11. www.pattismith.net

Madness Londoners once thought the earthquake hit them, but it was only Madness in concert, playing some of the well known songs like “One house”, “it must be love”, “My girl”… Celebrating 30th anniversary, members of this ska greatness, Graham „Suggs“ McPherson, Mike Barson, Lee Thompson, Chris Foreman, Chas Smash,

The Prodigy Liam Howllet, Keith Flint and MC Maxim Reality, the creators of numerous hit songs will perform at EXIT festival for the second time and present their latest album “Invaders Must Die”. Very popular band with clear and authentic punk influence and guitar sound on electro music marked the Prodigy as a cross-over band. www.theprodigy.com

Performers – Dance Arena Carl Cox b2b Green Velvet Carl Cox and Green Velvet, the most popular DJs of all times, both like funky and typical Chicago “jack “ rhythms and mix

July - December 2009

Culture & Events

Carl Cox, Green Velvet, John Digweed, Sasha music for the first time on stage on July 12. This will be their second appearance on the festival, while Cox’s previous performers was declared Best Dance Arena performance. www.carlcox.com, www.green.velvet.com James Zabiela b2b Nic Fanciulli Since 2007 these two master DJs have performed and worked on various projects together. www.myspace.com/ jameszabiela, www. myspace.com/nicfanciulli Sasha b2b John Digweed Great DJs, legends of British trance and house sound, made world fame by performing together. This famous DJ team performs on July 9. www.djsasha.com, www. johndeegweed.com

Performers – Fusion Stage Max Romeo Loud singing and gentle and revolutionary music spreading the idea of freedom come from Jamaican musician Max Romeo. The ones that like reggae music will enjoy his performance on July 10. www.myspace.com/maxromeoepicdub Partibrejkers On of the biggest and most important rock bands from Serbia, playing rhythm and blues in combination with punk energy, better and louder than ever, will perform on July 9. www.myspace.com/partibrejkersbeograd

Why EXIT “One of the best festival gigs that I have ever done. Amazing venue, thumping sound system and great crowd” John Digweed “I’ve never even dreamed that the hospitality and casualness of these people would make me stay in Novi Sad for much longer then I’d planned. I’ve never stayed anywhere after the gig, by the way.” Dave de Rose, Moloko “It’s the best place I’ve ever performed at!” Lottie “Serbia was fantastic we all really enjoyed it - the audience was amazing and it was the best show on the tour so far.” Billy Idol “Exit Festival was great, amazing night, played from 3am till 6.30 when the sun came up and to see so many people in a moat was something else.” Carl Cox “Exit festival was excellent... I had a really good time playing. The site, the crowd, everything was really good. Look forward to go back next year”. Hernan Cattaneo “It was the best festival we played this year” Liam Howlett, The Prodigy “We didn’t have a clue about what to expect... and it was incredible...” Nick Halam, Stereo MC’s “The only thing I can say about EXIT 06, it was PERFECT! Very professional, amazing sound system .......and....... need I say more? Junior Jack “wow - exit - what a festival! great energy, great understanding of the music and a great place. very impressed.” Giles Peterson / Radio 1

Novi Sad In Your Pocket

www.exitfest.org

Culture & Events Gabor Bunford, Aleksandar Banjac, Dragan Kozarčić, Svetlana Palada, Jelena Buča. Štrand beach. Programme: Carmichael, Gillespie, Faure, Aretha Franklin, Sting, Freddie Mercury www.muzickaomladina.org

International Meeting of Oldtimer Enthusiasts

Novi Sad Summer Music Festival July 1 – September 1 The youth of Novi Sad traditionally organizes series of concerts. This year there are 20 concerts different in style and genre (classical music, jazz, evergreen, ethno and pop music). Entrance is free. Programme: July 1, 21:00. Big band Belgrade Music Youth, Štrand beach. Programme: „Never On Sunday” July 5, 21: 00. Hot club Zagreb (Croatia), Nikolajevska 1. Programme: “The Night of Gypsy Jazz” July 8, 21: 00. T-boNeS 4, Branislav Jatić, Nikolajevska 1. Programme: Mozart, Verdi, Shostakovich, Bernstein, Mancini July 14, 21:00, Maja Rajković, The Cathedral, Programme: Schumann, Scriabin, Rachmaninoff July 20, 21:00, Intermezzo, Teodora Bojović, Igor Vinčetić, Nikolajevska 1. July 23 21:00, Ensemble Renesans, Nikolajevska 1. Programme: European Middle age Music and Balkan Traditional Music July 28, 21:00, La vie en rose, Edit Piaf chansons, Judith Keller, Branko Džinović, Miloš Mitić, Miloš Matić, Nikolajevska 1. July 30, 21:00, HGM Orchestra (Croatia), Sigi Feigl (Austria), Kokan Dimuševski (Makedonija), Štrand beach. August 3, 21:00, Luis Meireles, Maria Jose Souza Gudes (Portugal), Štrand beach. Programme: Kuhlau, Debussy, Bartok / Arma, Richard Strauss August 5, 21:00, Lary Vuckovich Trio (USA), Lary Vuckovich, Chuck McPherson, Paul Keller. Nikolajevska 1. August 8, 21:00, The long night of percussion, Stanković Percussion Ensemble, Simone Rubino (Italy) - Reiko XYZ (Japan), Lev Velov (Israel) - Aristel Škrbić (Slovenia), Slovenia Percussion Duo. Nikolajevska 1. August 11, 21:00, Rastrelli Cello Quartet (Russia), Nikolajevska 1. Programme : Frescobaldi, Tchaikovsky, Mendelssohn, Schnittke, Popper, Brubeck, Gershwin, Desmond August 13, 21:00, Aleksandar Tasić, Zoran Krajišnik. Nikolajevska 1. Programme : Mesiaen, Barrios, Gnattali, Gershwin, Piazzolla August 18, 21:00, Panon group. Nikolajevska 1. August 21, 21:00, Vojvodina Youth Orchestra, the Cathedral. August 24 21:00, Ensemble “Tebe pojem” (Russia), the Cathedral. August 22 – 27, 21:00, David Pavlovits (Hungaria). Nikolajevska 1. August 26, 21: 00, Nuestro aire, Flamenco night. Nikolajevska 1. August 28, 21:00, Saša Štulić, Alen Kopunović Legetin (Croatia). The Cathedral. Programme: Bach, Häendl, Caccini, Franck, Reger August 31, 21:00, Novi Sad Brass Orchestar, Fedor Vrtačnik,

Novi Sad In Your Pocket

August 28-30 Freedom Square Traditional international event organised by Novi Sad veteran Club takes place, like every year, at the last weekend of August. Owners of vintage cars, bikes and other special vehicles meet at the Freedom Square, ride through the town streets, take the daring test, take the Fruška Gora Rally and exhibit vehicles in Novi Sad and Titel.

Branko’s kolo September 4-14 Sremski Karlovci, Stražilovo, Novi Sad Branko’s kolo is the manifestation that honours the life and work of one of the greatest poets of Serbian 19 century, Branko Radičević. This Serbian largest poetry manifestation gathers hundreds of Serbiand and international poets, dramatists, musicians, painters and philosophers. www.brankovokolo.org

Art Colony Kamenjar fish restaurant September 4-6 For the 12th time, the art-literary manifestation named “Danube the Great, placed on Kamenjar” will be held to join painters, literates, poets and everyone in loved with the Danube. Enjoying nice wines, live music and fish specialties, artists will create at the river bank.

IFUS – International Festival of Street Musicians September 8 – 12 Street shows, unusual instruments, jazz, rock and classical music, folklore groups, choirs, dancers, actors, ballet dancers – all at the IFUS festival gathering the best street art performers from around the world. Street and squares of Novi Sad become stages with Parisian charm and carnival atmosphere. If you wish to participate, fill in the form you can find at www.cekans.org.rs

7th Bukovac Marathon September 12 Fruška Gora, Bukovac The 7th Bukovac Marathon gathers around 500 walkers, runners and bikers all around region. Marathon starts from Bukovac, a village on the brows of Fruška Gora mountain, passes through well marked routes and beautiful landscapes of the Fruška Gora National Park and monasteries Velika Remeta, Krušedol, Grgeteg, Hopovo. There are four marathon routes: for juniors -

Culture & Events  The Novi Sad telephone code is +381 21 7km, basic– 16,4 km, medium– 35,2 km and large marathon – 47,8km. You will receive an information leaflet with the route description, but don’t expect to win money, because winners of this marathon are awarded diplomas. For applying call: 021/ 82 50 17, 82 60 83 or www.vilinavodica.org.rs.

17th International Novi Sad Marathon October 11 Main Marathon race 42 195 m and Relay race, cross race for pupils (1500 m), EKO fledgeling 100m and turtle race 4,2195 m start from the centre of Novi Sad. The longer races continue through the car free urban area, then along the Danube bank and back to the city centre. Refreshments are available every 3-4 km and the time for the main race is limited to 5 hours. participants must be over 18. You can apply and become a part of this manifestation at www.marathon.org.rs

Novi Sad Autumn October 20-24 SPC Vojvodina (1st floor) This autumn more than 180 exhibitors of horticulture, old crafts, honey production and healthy food will participate at 6th Novi Sad Autumn. More than 70 000 people will during 5 days visit this manifestation. Beside the chance to buy the exhibits, you may also learn something new about ecology, protection of environment, horticulture at lectures and public discussions. Eco and creative workshops will also be organised for the youngest visitors. www.pokretgorana.org.rs

World Canals Conference 2009 September 23-25 Conference is a chance for all waterway managers, users and enthusiasts with an interest in the canals, navigable rivers and inland waterway heritage of the Middle Danube Region, to meet and discus. The general theme of the Conference is raising awareness and improving the economic performance of waterways and presenting tourist potentials of East Europe and Asia. As a part of this event, two tours are organized – a tour through Đerdap (September 21-22) and a cruising of the canals of the Danube-Tisa-Danube Hydro-system. www. wcc2009serbia.org

Tesla Fest 2009 October 12-15 SPC Vojvodina Tesla fest is an international festival of innovation, knowledge and creativity. Year after year the number of innovations, new products, technologies and projects is increasing. This year we are expecting over 500 domestic and international innovators, young talents, students, investors, schools, institutes, universities and companies. International jury awards best three innovators with gold, silver and bronze medal, and also gives WIPO (World Intellectual Property Organization) prize. At the same time, the International Pigeon Race between Novi Sad and Banja Luka is organized. www.teslafest.org and www. ftn.ns.ac.yu

Venues Karađorđe Stadium B-3, Dimitrija Tucovića 3 SPENS - Sports and Business Centre of Vojvodina C-2, Sutjeska 2, tel. 488 22 22, www.spens.rs Synagogue B-2, Jevrejska 11 The Name of Mary Parish Church (The Cathedral) C-2, Trg slobode

11th Novi Sad Jazz Festival November 18-21 Novi Sad Cultural Centre, Serbian National Theatre This international festival presents original music. 12 jazz ensembles and over 60 international jazz stars will be presented in the Main programme, while side programme is consisted of workshops, presentations and exhibitions. Novi Sad Cultural Centre, known for it awareness for the new and innovative tendencies in culture organises this festival, as well as the International Festival of Prose Writing (in April), International Festival of Alternative and New Theatre (in June and July), NS Salon (in October) and the Festival of European Film. www.kcns.org.rs

www.inyourpocket.com July - December 2009

Culture & Events  The Novi Sad telephone code is +381 21 Festival of European Film EURO-IN December 1-25 Over 200 films of all genres are presented at the festival, promoting novelties in European and professional independent film production, reaffirming successful films, discovering new tendencies and marking important jubilees of European and independent film. www.kcns.org.rs

December Zmaj-days December 1-6 Zmaj Children Games, one of the biggest festivals for children, is named after a great Serbian poet and writer, Jovan Jovanović Zmaj. You will be able to see 18th Festival of Monodrama for children, exhibition of the illustrations of the Creative Centre and documentary films from India with childhood as main theme. The best novel for children will receive “Rade Obrenović” award at the Matica Srpska Gallery. www.zmajevedecjeigre.org.rs

Theatres SNP - Serbian National Theatre (drama, opera, ballet) C-2, Pozorišni trg 1, tel. 662 14 11, www.snp.org.rs Ujvideki Szinhaz (drama) C-2, Jovana Subotića 3-5, tel. 52 53 88, www.uvszinhaz.co.rs Vesela kornjača (children’s theatre) C-2, Nikole Pašića 34, tel. 661 33 28, www.veselakornjaca.com Youth Theatre (children’s theatre and evening stage) C-2, Ignjata Pavlasa 8, tel. 52 58 84, www. pozoristemladih.rs

Cinemas Arena C-2, Bulevar Mihajla Pupina 3, tel. 661 57 72 Jadran C-2, Poštanska 5, tel. 52 88 38 KCNS, Katolička porta 5, tel. 52 83 46

Art galleries Gallery of Matica Srpska C-2, Trg Galerija 1, tel. 489 90 00. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Fri 12:00 - 20:00, Closed Mon, Sun Commemorative Collection of Pavle Beljanski C-2, Trg Galerija 2, tel. 52 81 58. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00, Closed Mon, Tue Gift - Collection of Rajko Mamuzić C-2, Vase Stajica 1, tel. 52 04 67. Open 09:00 - 17:00 SANU - Platoneum Gallery C-2, Nikole Pasića 6, tel. 42 02 10. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat. 09:00 - 13:00, Closed Sun. Prometej Gallery, Trg Marije Trandafil 11, tel. 422 245, Open 07:00 - 15:00 Boško Petrović Tapestry Gallery D-2, Petrovaradin Fortress - Studio 61, tel. 43 35 88. Open 09:00 - 17:00, 09:00 - 14:30 Association of Artists of Vojvodina C-2, Mihajla Pupina 9, tel. 52 49 91, Open 08:00 - 18:30, Sat 09:00 - 19:00 Forma C-2, Ilije Ognjanovića 3, tel. 52 44 81. Open 09:00 - 17:00 Zlatno oko C-2, Laze Telečkog, tel. 52 90 75. Open 08:00 - 13:00, Closed Sat, Sun Gallery of Photo C-2, Cinema and Video Association

Novi Sad In Your Pocket

of Vojvodina, Nikole Pašićca 28, tel. 52 07 80. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 14:00, Closed Sun Gallery of the Army Club C-2, Beogradski kej 9, tel. 52 78 92. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00 Little Art Parlour of the Cultural Centre C-2, Mihajla Pupina 11, tel. 52 51 20. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Closed Sun Bel C-2, Mihajla Pupina 7, tel. 52 32 27. Open 09:00 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00 Renata C-2, Trg Mladenaca 8, tel. 662 15 00. Open 10:00 - 13:00 and 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00, Closed Sun Da C-3, Fruškogorska 29, tel. 635 07 44. Open 10:00 19:00, Sat 12:00 - 21:00 Bunker C-2, Železnička 4, tel. 635 07 44, Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 12:00 - 21:00, Closed Sun Perspektiva D-2, Koste Nađa 30 (Petrovaradin), tel. 43 31 46. Open 18:00 - 20:00, Closed Sun City`s Sales Gallery C-2, Zmaj Jovina 22, tel. 42 16 51. Open 13:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00

Novi Sad Fair September 24-27 14the International Exhibition of Jewellery, Watches and Optics “Sjaj” October 6-10 42nd International Fair of Tourism October 6-11 42nd International Fairs of Hunting, Fishing and Sport 16th International Fair of Horticulture 18th International Fair of ‘Eco-World’ October 23 9th Car show Novi sad November 10-13 4th International Fair of Investment and Real Estate 18th International Fair of Power-Supply November 10-14 25th International Fair of Civil Engeneering December 3-5 6th International Fair of Education “Guidelines” Every last Thursday ay in a month – Fair of Antiques, hobbies and art objects www.nsfair.co.yu

www.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events 25th Summer Universiade

Ticket agents Biletservis C-2, Mamut Megastore, Zmaj Jovina 15, tel. 661 41 31. 4Open 09:00 - 21:00, Closed Sun. Biletservis C-2, IPS Bazar Store, Bulevar Mihajla Pupina 1, tel. 423-810. 4Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 17:00.

July 1-12 belgrade Athletics, judo, football, basketball, fencing, volleyball, swimming, rhy thmic gymnastics, diving, ar tistic gymnastics, table tennis, archery, tens, taekwondo and water polo: 15 sports and 208 disciplines, 9000 participants (the largest number by now) from 140 countries, all part of the world’s biggest sporting event of the year, second in importance only to the Olympic Games, and the biggest sporting and cultural festival ever organised in Serbia – the 25th Summer Universiade. Students of 31 Belgrade faculties, the first established in 1838, will welcome their colleagues from all over the world. It is organised under the supervision of FISU International University Sports Federation, with the Assembly consisting of 141 National University Sports Federations. The first student competition under the name of Universiade was held in 1959 in Torino, Italy, gathering 1400 participants from 43 counties. A flag with five stars (blue, yellow, black, green and red) arranged in the shape of a “u” on the white background is the symbol of the Universiade. The only anthem to be heard is the Gaudeamus Igitur, emphasising the international character of the manifestation and showing that knowledge and spots know no borders. 3 jubilees 25th Summer Universiade 50th anniversary of Universiade 60th anniversary of FISU

49th Dragačevo Assembly August 5 – 9 Once a military instrument, today the trumpets of the small village of Guča invite to the dance, not war. The sound of the trumpet traditionally accompanies every major event in Serbia's life: births, baptisms, weddings, state and church festivals, harvesting, but also departing this world. The village of Guča in western Serbia has gained world fame with its Assembly of Trumpet Players, the largest and the “craziest” trumpet event on the planet. The competition for the best trumpet orchestra starts at 7 in the morning and lasts till late at night, thus entertaining around 500 000 visitors. While there, don’t miss wedding cabbage, grilled meat, homemade brandy, corn bread with cheese and kajmak, and enjoy competitions for “harambaša”, best national dress, and the ceremony of Assembly wedding. www.guca.rs

www.universiade-belgrade2009.org

100Din. = €1.06; GBP0.91; US$1.49 (27 June 2009) July - December 2009

A visitor‘s impression Novi Sad – dancing to its own beat As Serbia’s second city, Novi Sad has always had a very distinct culture and identity that make it totally different from the capital. My mother is originally from Novi Sad, so I’ve been coming to the city ever since I was a baby and would spend every summer visiting family here, so I’ll always have a special place in my heart for the place and its people. It has always been a vibrant, young and friendly city, and it can rightly claim to be the cultural capital of Serbia, with a great tradition of music, art and literature. Sure, Novisadniks are pretty laid back, but they’re also passionate, spirited and intelligent people – and they certainly know how to have fun. Belgrade might be the capital of Serbia but, for me, Novi Sad is the heart of the country, moving to its own unique beat - and never more so than in July during Exit Festival weekend, when the whole place truly comes alive. But if you had seen Novi Sad 20 years ago, you would never have thought it possible that it would become one of the most important venues on the world festival circuit. There have been some amazing changes over the last two decades. In the early 90’s there was the Yugoslav war, which ended with Serbia virtually isolated as one country after another declared its independence from the Yugoslav Republic. Then in 1999, the city was bombed by NATO in an attempt to destabilize the Milosevic government. After three months of shelling, much of the city’s infrastructure was destroyed, including all three of its bridges across the Danube. Returning to Novi Sad in 2001 after 4 years away, what struck me most was the impact these events had had on the mood of the city. It seemed as if the younger generation – tired of the old ways and of being stuck on the

Novi Sad In Your Pocket

fringes of the world c om m u ni t y - h a d taken charge. They wanted Serbia to be part of the world, not forever on the outside looking in. The creation of Exit in 2000 helped to put Novi Sad on the map. When I was a child, I was usually the only foreigner that most of my Serbian friends had ever met. Nowadays, the city’s younger generation - many of whom struggle to get the visas necessary for international travel – can meet and get to know people from across the globe for the first time in their lives. And the city has been transformed as a result. I’ve seen more change in Novi Sad over the last few years than in all of the previous thirty. As long as I’ve been going there, it has always struck me as a ‘young’ city, full of smart, independent people who loved their music, even if they had to wait a few years to get their hands on what we were listening to in the West. Now - firmly established at the centre of the European festival scene - Novi Sad is tapping out a beat that the rest of Europe dances to. Anna-Maria O’Flynn is director of specialist festival travel company eufest.com, which provides transport to Exit, and other leading European festivals.

The true hedonistic experience of Vojvodina

Salaš 137

Međunarodni put 137 21233 Čenej (12km from Novi Sad) Information and reservations: +381 21 71 45 01 or +381 21 71 45 05 www.salas137.rs

salaš 137 salads, ham, and sausages served on a wooden platter. Be sure to try the čekić (hammer) - a bite-size prune stuffed with aromatic cheese and wrapped in grilled bacon. Ideally, the ‘hammer’ should be followed by the chicken soup with homemade noodles (made and cut by hand), after which you can stretch your legs by taking a leisurely walk around the compound until the main course arrives (nobody will touch anything left on your table during your walk). We recommend you try the stuffed zucchini or the smoked knuckle of pork topped with horseradish and spices and baked in an earthenware pot until golden-brown. One of the various types of sweets on offer and a cup of freshly prepared Serbian coffee would be a perfect way to end a perfect lunch. The philosophy behind this type of cuisine is to be able to relish good food and local wine without having to think about calories and every-day responsibilities. During the summer the cool shade of the walnut tree makes a perfect place for eating outdoors.

Salaš, an isolated village estate surrounded by avenues of trees protecting the backyard from wind and separating it from the fields around it, is just the place for you if you ever need to escape the hustle and bustle of the city or are simply in search of a peaceful setting. There the air is fresh, the food healthy, the atmosphere laid back and the only noise you can hear is the one made by the birds. A group of about 400 salaš estates is located in the area of Čenej village. The salaš we wish to cover at present is the one called Salaš 137. It offers an authentic experience of life in the country (with agricultural land surrounding the estate, as well as farm animals). Houses on a typical salaš are packed with old furniture, antique movables and other interesting items decorating the colourful walls. It is the ideal place for incurable romantics and hedonists, and since it can get pretty crowded on weekends, it would be wise to call ahead of time and reserve a table, accommodation even better (of course, if in the offer). On the salaš estates ‘slow food’ has always been ‘in’, so the Salaš 137 restaurant offers specialties of the local Vojvodina cuisine, prepared and served in this style. Before start the meal you need to indulge yourself with aperitifs in the form of local quince rakija (brandy) and then, while enjoying the company of friends, nibble on a variety of cheeses, pies,

Novi Sad In Your Pocket

If numerous work-related responsibilities have kept you from spending quality time with your children during the course of the week, this is the perfect opportunity to redeem yourself. You will be able to spend an entire day with them, watching them run after a ball in the estate or joining them in the game. The entire compound is surrounded by fields that children don’t generally find very interesting, so you won’t have to worry about letting them out of your sight. However, if you

salaš 137 should doze off after lunch and lose sight of them, you are most likely to find them in the stable with various domestic animals. You may also bring your dog along to this salaš since boarding is offered (for both dogs and cats). If it’s well behaved, minds its own business and keeps away from the plates of other guests, he will be allowed to run around the yard freely. As to other adult activities available, archery might be an interesting sport to try out, whereas golf enthusiasts can practice their tee shot. You can also take a ride around the neighbourhood in a horse-drawn carriage or learn horseback riding. More experienced riders have over 20 horses at their disposal for recreational riding. This salaš also offers a playground for children, a mini-football field, volleyball and badminton, a small gym, sauna, and a massage service. You can purchase interesting souvenirs at the 24-hour open reception.

Salaš 137 has a total of 14 rooms equipped with old, authentic furniture loaded with romantic scent. Each room has a bathroom, TV set and a CD player. Some rooms feature queen-size beds, and others have separate single beds. Rooms do not include air conditioning, which in truth is unnecessary due to the shade provided by the trees, as well as the thick walls, and the bathrooms have large bathtubs perfect for keeping you cool and refreshed in hot summer days. It can be a long wait to get a room on a weekend, whereas on weekdays a room is much easier to book. If you plan on spending the night at the salaš, it is advised that you inform the owners about this before your arrival. For those who wish to use this beautiful and relaxing ambiance to lure their business partners into a deal, Salaš 137 offers a conference room, and there is also the option of renting the entire compound, which is fully covered with a WiFi signal. In addition, if you like, and if previously arranged, the salaš staff can take you on a hunting trip Salaš and being a branch of the Safari Club International, a hunting organisation

operating in 37 countries, great attention is given to wildlife conservation and outdoor education.. Salaš 137 is only 15 minutes’ drive from Novi Sad. Its proximity makes it a tempting option for travellers who cannot find any place to stay in Novi Sad, or those who prefer the country ambiance, away from the hustle and bustle of the city. The road from Novi Sad to Salaš 137 is a local road called Međunarodni put (International) which will take you directly to Salaš 137, with no turnings. If you are not sure whether you are on the right track, ask any passer-by for the road to Čenej. When you see a sign indicating a left-hand turn to Čenej whilst on your way from Novi Sad, you should

slow down because you will soon see a wooden sign on your right that says ‘Salaš 137’, as well as a small road that leads to the estate. Feel the authentic farmhouse life, enjoy the experience of the traditional Vojvodina cuisine and enjoy the nature.

Salaš 137 Međunarodni put 137, 21233 Čenej (12km from Novi Sad) Information and reservations: (+38121)71 45 01, www.salas137.rs

July - December 2009

Where to stay The range of accommodation on offer in Novi Sad is fairly broad and will fit every budget. Most rooms are good value for the money, but note that most hotels will double their rates during the International Agricultural Fair in May and the famed EXIT Festival. Serbia is still a heaven for smokers and nonsmokers will be hard pressed to find non-smoking rooms.

Symbol key

Cream of the crop

Leopold I D-2, Petrovaradinska tvrđava bb, tel. 488 78 78, fax 488 78 77, www.leopoldns.com. A luxury hotel with the most exquisite of locations - on top of Petrovaradin Fortress, with a magnificent view of Novi Sad. The rooms and suites on the ground and first floor are decorated in the baroque style, those on the second floor have modern furniture. Rooms for daytime use only are also available at half price. The hotel also features a Havana Club and restaurants with Italian, Asian and Vojvodina style cuisine, whose open terraces overlooking the Danube and the city. 45 rooms and 13 suites (singles €135-175, doubles €124-165, suites €196-382). Prices include VAT and breakfast. Simboli: APHDFUCORKGL ««««« Park B-2, Novosadskog sajma 35, tel. 488 88 88, www. hotelparkns.com. The largest hotel in town, situated near the Novi Sad Fair, surrounded by a large park. The rooms are fitted with modern furniture or with replica period pieces. Most rooms are equipped with hydro massage bath tubs. The hotel offers good service, various facilities, including a wellness centre and the hugely popular night club. Ideal for business travellers. 98 rooms and 58 suites (singles €63-69, doubles €82, suites €89-396). Prices include VAT and breakfast. APHDTFCOR6KGL «««««

Upmarket

Aleksandar B-3, Bulevar Cara Lazara 79, tel. 480 44 44, fax 480 44 80, www.hotelaleksandar.rs. The newest hotel in town. Although remote from the town centre, it is very close to the Štrand beach on the Danube and Ribarsko ostrvo (Fishing Island) packed with restaurants and clubs. The hotel has a modern and carefully designed interior, and the rooms are spacious and elegant. Bathrooms are equipped with hydro massage showers. The hotel has a congress hall, making it ideal for business people. 20 rooms and 7 suites (singles €90, doubles €100, suites €130-165). Prices include VAT and breakfast. APHD FURKL «««« Elite A-2, Bulevar Jovana Dučića 35, tel. 488 58 88, office@elitecentar.rs, www.elitecentar.rs. This hotel is located in Bistrica, quiet part of Novi Sad, and offers 5 tennis courts - 2 indoors, 3 outdoors and 1 centre court with covered stands. In designing this aluminium façade building, special concern was about energy preservation and ecology so that the heating of the water is left to solar energy, while the energy of underground waters is used heating. Basketball player or just tall – the hotel, with 2,2m long beds (24 in total) ensured you get a good night’s sleep. Watching tennis or just outside while drinking coffe is made possible in the hotel café. 38 rooms and 7 suites (18 singles € 55, 20 doubles € 70, suites € 80-100). Prices include VAT and breakfast. AHPURKGL««« Panorama B-2, Futoška 1a, tel. 480 18 00, www. hotelpanorama.co.rs. A small hotel opened in 2006 on the 6th floor of a commercial building, not far from the town centre. Different rooms have different furnishings, but they

Novi Sad In Your Pocket

P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

O Casino

H Conference facilities

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

R Internet

L Guarded parking

F Fitness centre

G Non-smoking rooms

K Restaurant

6 Animal friendly

D Sauna

C Swimming pool

are all comfortable and well-equipped (each has a DVD home cinema system and a hydro massage shower) and have a nice view of the town. The staff is very friendly and efficient. Apart from breakfast, the hotel does not offer any other services. 8 rooms and 4 suites (singles €47-62, doubles €52-68, suites €68-85). Prices include VAT and breakfast. APRKLG««« Planeta Inn B-2, corner of Jevrejska and Gajeva , tel. 661 58 06, planetainnhotel@gmail.com, www. planetainn.com. The newest hotel (opened on June 1) in the city centre, just above and connected to “Planeta 021” shopping centre. Exterior with air conditioners everywhere isn’t promising, but don’t be discouraged. Pleasant rooms with everything a modern person needs are on the top floor. Double rooms are very spacious, made for enjoyment. For food, you can choose between the hotel restaurant and ordering from any restaurant in the city. 16 rooms (2 singles € 49, 14 doubles € 50). Prices include VAT and breakfast. APR6KGL«««« Prezident B-2, Futoška 109, tel. 487 74 44, office@ prezidenthotel.com, www.prezidenthotel.com. New modern hotel located in the centre of the city, walking distance away from Novi Sad Fair. A lot of attention is given to the decoration of the interior, and all rooms are equipped with flat screen TV and soundproof windows. The luxurious Presidential suite has a spectacular over view on Fruška Gora and Jacuzzi in the central part. For enjoyment and health, hotel is equipped with a Wellness & Spa centre (indoor swimming pool, Turkish bath, Jacuzzi, sauna, gym and beauty centre). Prices include VAT and breakfast. AHDPURKLFC

Mid-range

Novi Sad B-2. 442 511. Situated right across the Central Bus and Railway Stations and well connected to the other parts of the town via public buses network. Standard rooms are nice and clean, not overtly stylish, but quite acceptable for a short stay. Your night’s sleep will be a lot more restful if you request a room not overlooking the street. 103 rooms and 9 suites (singles €57, doubles €68, triples €72,5, suites €85-87). Prices include VAT and breakfast. APDOKL ««« Sajam B-2, Hajduk Veljkova 11, tel. 42 02 66, www. hotelsajam.co.rs. A very decent hotel, situated 2km from the town centre. Its proximity to Novi Sad Fair and peaceful surroundings make it especially suitable for business people. Renovated in 2007, the rooms are light and airy. One of very few hotels in Novi Sad offering non-smoking rooms. 65 rooms and 6 suites (singles €46, doubles €59, suites €59-79). Prices include VAT and breakfast. APKGL «««

Where to stay Vojvodina C-2, Trg Slobode 2, tel. 662 21 22, fax 661 54 45, www. hotelvojvodina.co.rs. The oldest hotel in town, opened in 1854. It is in the centre of the town on Trg slobode, so it is ideal for those who prefer being right in the centre of the action to peace and quiet. The atmosphere in the hotel befits its age and the staff are sometimes sluggish and disinterested. 59 rooms and 2 suites (singles €39, doubles €55, triples €68, suites €75). Prices include VAT and breakfast. AK «««

Budget

Rimski C-1, Jovana Cvijića 26, tel. 44 32 31, fax 44 32 37, www.rimski.co.rs. A short stroll away from the centre of the town. The rooms are clean but a little cramped and the suits are a far better option. The restaurant on the top floor feels a little claustrophobic due to the sloping ceiling, but it has truly separate rooms for smokers and non-smokers. Although the hotel is quite small, the helpful staff will make a genuine effort to meet your requests - whether it is baby sitting or fax machine or conference room. 22 rooms and 5 suites (singles €30-50, doubles €40-60, suites €100-105). Prices include VAT and breakfast. APHURK GL ««« Duga A-3, Ćirila i Metodija 11b, tel. 46 70 00, fax 46 97 54, www.duga-radisic.co.rs. A hotel with ungainly exterior on the outskirts of Novi Sad. The rooms are clean and basic, ideal for large groups of young guests who do not care too much about the interior design. The hotel features a tourist agency organising tours round Novi Sad and its neighbourhood, a basketball court, a shop, a beauty parlour, a large hall for various festive events and a restaurant where you can always buy freshly roasted meat. 53 rooms and 8 suites (singles €33-40, doubles €42-48, triples €51-57, suites €75-92). Prices include VAT and breakfast. APTKL «

€80, suites €80-109). Prices include VAT and breakfast. AP HUD FRKGL «««« Ile de France B-3, Cara Dušana 41, tel. 636 23 82, www.iledefrance.co.rs. Situated near Novi Sad Fair in a new building. The parquet-floored rooms are furnished with balconies and the suits boast a Jacuzzi bath. The hotel feels intimate and homely, as if somebody put you up in their apartment. 14 suites (€45-66). Prices include VAT and breakfast. PRL Mediteraneo C-2, Ilije Ognjanovića 10, tel. 42 71 35. A cute little hotel in the very centre of the town, in a quiet street near Dunavski Park. It is quite new and the rooms are very pretty, furnished with funky and colourful items. Breakfast is served in your room or in Mediteraneo Restaurants a few steps away from the hotel. On request, the friendly staff will arrange for you the pick-up, day trips, visits to theatre and museums. 11 rooms (singles €57, doubles €78, triples €95). Prices include VAT and breakfast. APRL «« Vigor A-3, Jožef Atile 2, tel. 689 44 44, fax 46 81 60, www.hotelvigor.com. A new hotel with a modern design, slightly remote from the centre of the town, situated not far from Ribarsko ostrvo. Its well-appointed rooms are bright and cosy, with stylish details, and very nice bathrooms. You may find the LCD TV set a little to high for comfort. Hotel services include laundry, sightseeing-tours upon request and breakfast specially prepared to meet any special health, dietary or religious requirements. 22 rooms and 1 suites (singles €43, doubles €57, triples €70, suites €86). Prices include VAT and breakfast. APHRKGL

Braća Drinić Epicentar Branka Ćopića 122, tel. 674 82 80, www.hotelbracadrinic.com. At a 10 minutes ride from the town centre. The rooms offer the comfort of a good-quality hostel and feature nice bathrooms. The overall impression is that the owners do not have much experience with running a hotel, but are keen to make a mark. It is not ideal for family visits because of the café on the ground floor equipped with slot machines. 22 rooms and 2 suites (singles €41, doubles €49, triples €58, suites €71-89). Prices include VAT and breakfast. APRHL ««

Bed & Breakfast

ACenter Birotel B-3, Bulevar Cara Lazara 94, tel. 489 72 22, www.acenter-birotel.com. Situated on the top floor of a newly built residential building some 4km from the centre of the town. The rooms are small, but clean and well-appointed, and some have a Jacuzzi bath. The open terrace on the roof enjoys a fine view of the town. Breakfast is served in a public room on the ground floor with unusual décor, which doubles as a café. Hotel services include car parking as well as car wash and minor car repairs. 18 rooms and 1 suite (singles €54, doubles €72, triples €94, suites €125-172). Prices include VAT. APU6RKGL Gymnas B-3. Teodora Pavlovića 28, tel. 46 77 10, fax 474 07 04, www.gymnas.rs. Among the best hotels in Novi Sad. Its greatest shortcoming is that the town centre is not exactly at a walking distance from the hotel, but taxi is cheap and this should not be too daunting. The rooms are elegantly furnished and no two rooms are alike. Hotel guests have free access to a fully equipped fitness centre and a sauna. Only breakfast is served, no other meals. 19 rooms and 8 suites (singles €55, doubles €50-64, triples

July - December 2009

Where to stay 100Din. = €1.06; GBP0.91; US$1.49 (27 June 2009)

Guest houses

Adice Branka Ćopića 62, tel. 654 31 11. This cosy guest house is 3 km far from the city centre. Informal, tranquil atmosphere and friendly stuff, traditional local and international cuisine specialties prepared in a new way (we recommend roasted lamb), while the restaurant terrace, over viewing the Fruška Gora mountain, is reserved for hot summer days. Two car wash shops are at your disposal, just as 14 rooms (11 singles € 25, 3 doubles € 35). Prices include VAT and breakfast. PKL Bonaca Apartments B-1, Kisačka 62a, tel. 44 66 00. A new building not far from the Railway Station. The apartments, equipped with a kitchen and a bathroom, are indifferently furnished, with a floor area ranging between 26m2 and 75m2. The hotel offers restaurant and a 24-hour room service. Note that late check-outs, after 12:00, are not tolerated and you will be charged 80% of the full rate. 22 suites (€48,5-85,5). Prices include VAT. AP Car Royal Apartments B-3, Cara Dušana 71, tel. 636 22 00, www.hotel-car.net. A new hotel, 3km from the town centre, aiming at the business traveller. The rooms are no-nonsense, modern and comfortable, each equipped with a hydro massage bath tub. Some of the rooms are in the attic, with a sloping roof. The hotel offers non-smoking rooms and room service. 11 rooms and 2 suites (singles €45, doubles €55, triples €75, suites €100). VAT not included. APHGL Filip A-2, Joakima Vujića 14, tel. (064)118 61 72. A new, decent-looking studio for two on the fifth floor of a building 3km away from the centre of the town and 1km from the Railway Station. It comes with a well-appointed kitchen, A/C, cable TV, telephone limited to local calls, towels and bed linen. Grocery store, bakeries, bank, and bus stop are at stone’s throw. 1 suite (€40). VAT not included. PR Fontana C-2, Nikole Pašića 27, tel. 661 27 60, www. restoranfontana.com. A popular restaurant in Novi Sad, famed for its traditional meat dishes, offering rooms for rent. Situated close to the town centre. The rooms are spacious, parquet-floored and well-appointed, but the décor is distastefully kitschy. Bear in mind that rooms are atop the restaurant which is often used as the banquet or wedding hall, with live music keeping the patrons enthralled well into the night. The restaurant has a very pretty terrace with a fountain. 14 rooms (singles €35,5, doubles €42, triples €51 ). Prices include VAT and breakfast. APK Tamara B-3, Lasla Gala 26, tel. (065)543 55 43. A fine studio for three with a separate entrance, near the main town boulevard and Vojvodina sports and commercial centre. It features a complimentary mini-bar, well-appointed kitchen, A/C, cable TV, telephone limited to local calls, towels and bed linen, as well as a washing machine. 1 suite (€80-100). VAT not included. PG Voyager C-2, Stražilovska 16, tel. 45 37 11, www. voyagerns.co.rs. Well-furnished apartments (26-67m2) housed in a modern residential building, situated not far from the town centre. Most apartments have PCs with

Novi Sad In Your Pocket

internet connection and some are fitted with extra long beds to accommodate tall guests. 20 suites (€50-105). Prices include VAT and breakfast. APRHL Zenit C-2. Zmaj Jovina 8, tel. 662 14 44, info@ hotelzenit.rs www.hotelzenit.rs. A small hotel in the town centre, a stone’s throw from the pedestrian zone. It is housed in an oddly shaped building, which probably accounts for the fact that most rooms differ in shape. Rooms are small and clean, furnished with modern but uninspiring furniture, with floor heating and cooling systems. The breakfast room is nice, the staff is very friendly, and the hotel owns a Bayliner speedboat on the Danube which you can hire. 6 rooms and 6 suites (singles €50-60, doubles €70, triples €90 suites €70-150). Prices include VAT and breakfast. APU6RHGL««

Hostels Bela lađa B-1, Kisačka 21, tel. 661 65 94, fax 472 51 20, www.restorannovisad.com. A popular traditional restaurant, opened in 1852, with rooms for rent. Centrally located, it offers a hostel service, 9 rooms and two shared bathrooms. There is another Bela lađa hostel on Zlatna greda 15, where rooms are decked out in wood panelling, equipped with cable TV and ensuite bathrooms. Kisačka 21: 9 rooms (singles, doubles, triples: €14-17). Prices include VAT. Breakfast not included. Simboli: CC, klima, restoran, pušenje, P. Zlatna greda 15: 14 rooms (doubles, triples, 4-bed dorm, 5-bed dorm: €17). Prices include VAT. Breakfast not included. APRGL Brankovo kolo C-2, Episkopa Visariona 3, tel. 42 54 41, www.hostelns.com. This large building with over 300 beds is actually a dorm, doubling as a hostel between 1 July and 25 August and between 30 December and 20 January. At a walking distance from the centre of the town. The rooms are bright and clean, with shared bathrooms. The hostel features a spacious breakfast room, basketball and volleyball courts and an internet café. 96 rooms (€15 per person). Prices include VAT and breakfast. HRKL Downtown C-2, Njegoševa 2, tel. (064)192 03 42, www.hostelnovisad.com. The first hostel in Novi Sad, with downtown location, at the main town square. It offers fine accommodation, great atmosphere, walls boldly painted in bright colours, the occasional queues in front of the bathroom being the only downside. The hostel features a kitchen, free internet access, car/bike parking. 5 rooms (singles €25, doubles €30, 6-bed dorm €11, 8-bed dorm: €10). Prices include VAT. 6RG Lazin hostel C-2, Laze Telečkog 10, (063) 44 37 03, www.lazinhostel.org. Situated in a small downtown street lined with cafés and restaurants. Its fine rooms are arranged in two levels, each with a shared bathroom, kitchen and a common room. The hostel features a bike parking room, free internet and cable TV. 6 rooms and 2 suites (singles €20, doubles €15, 4-bed dorm €13, 6-bed dorm €11, suites €30 ). VAT not included. PRL

www.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants S erbian cuisin e is a re fl e c tion o f th e histori cal circumstances this countr y has been exposed to throughout the centuries - a combination of various culinary influences prepared in an entirely unique and original way. The food served in restaurants is healthy and completely organic - with no genetically modified products or artificial flavourings, and the portions tend to be large. Most meals are prepared with a considerable amount of meat, and served with a variety of vegetables. ‘Home-cooked’ meals tend to be more spicy.

Asian

Orhideja D-2, Petrovaradin Fortress. The only place in town serving sushi. The menu features specialties from India, China, Malaysia, Indonesia, Thailand, Philippines and Japan. It has a fabulous terrace overlooking the town, and the inside is done in the oriental style with deep red walls. Waiters are friendly, but not fully acquainted with the peculiarities of the Asian cuisine on offer. 4Open 11:00 24:00, Sat, Sun 11:30 - 01:00. €€€. S: ABPL

Chinese

Dva štapića B-3, Cara Lazara 7a, tel. 45 95 24. A small and simply decorated restaurant featuring Chinese fast food. Although not exactly suited for romantic dinners, it is a great place to grab something to eat after a long walk or a shopping spree. It is interesting because it offers some dishes that are not usually found on the menus of Chinese restaurants in Europe and because you can watch Chinese cooks preparing your meal. Good and fast service. 4Open 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. €€. ABPGS Jang Ce C-2, Trifkovićev trg 2, tel. 662 28 75. Typical Chinese red and gold interior in the heart of Novi Sad. Experienced Chinese chef tries to meet the expectations and keep you satisfied with the meal you had ordered. Once with a menu in your hands, it is quite difficult to make a choice so we recommend chicken with beans. Also, you will be pleasantly surprised with the prices. 4Open: 12:00 – 23:00, closed Sun. €. APLS Sečuan C-2, Dunavska 16, tel. 52 96 93. The first ever Chinese restaurant in town with an unbroken tradition of quality. As implied by its name, it specialises in the Szechwan cuisine. The waiters are well-trained and attentive and the interior is typically Chinese, accented with many red details. Be sure to try rice cookies topped with dark chocolate. 4Open 09:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 01:00. €€€. A BPS

Fusion

Jatak B-3, Danila Kiša 13, tel. 661 34 33. This is just the place for jaded palates who crave rich and rare dainties

Symbol key P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

E Live music

S Take away

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

G Non-smoking areas

L Guarded parking

O Casino

B Terrace

R Internet

6 Animal friendly

Novi Sad In Your Pocket

Price Guide (Based on a good meal without wine) Expensive €€€ (More than €12 per person) Mid-range €€ (€7-12 per person) Cheap € (Less than €7 per person) on their plates, such as veal carpaccio with goose liver and porcini mushrooms. Dishes are exquisitely prepared, and a bit expensive for the local fare. Its rather understated décor seems to imply that nothing should distract diners from their food. 4Open 09:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 01:00. €€€. AP Babareebaa B-2, Bulevar oslobođenja 88, tel. 42 17 20. Restaurant, café and club all in one place with a modern streamlined décor. It is part of an international chain of restaurants bearing this name. Its versatile offer includes breakfast menu, kids menu and various munchies to accompany your drink. In the evening the whole place transforms into a club featuring gigs and DJ events, exotic cocktails and Cuban cigars. There are 3 PCs to surf the Internet. An ideal place for those who feel uncomfortable if there are no TV screens in sight. 4Open 07:00 - 24:00. €€. APRE

Indonesian

Surabaya, Primorska 26, tel. 641 34 00. The only Indonesian restaurant in Serbia. The interior is decorated in the Indonesian style, with a smart summer terrace (Novi Sad style). The menu offers Indonesian as well as Chinese dishes, the specialty of the house being the algae salad. The restaurant was established 14 year ago, and its popularity has never waned. 4Open 09:00 - 24:00, Closed Sun. €€€. A BPGSU6L

International

Arhiv C-2, Ilije Ognjanovića 16, tel. 472 21 76. One of the best restaurants in town, housed in the basement of a downtown building. A combination of wood and brick punctuated with wrought-iron details provides for understated elegance of the interior. It consists of three rooms which differ in size, making it an ideal setting for business lunches and intimate dinners alike. The menu may not be copious, but is guaranteed to lure you back. Even the food arrangement is a cut above the standard offer: the leek and mushroom soup is served in a scooped-out loaf of bread, and succulent char-grilled chicken breast wrapped in bacon and stuffed with prunes comes with peach sauce. There are dishes, specialties of the house, which must be ordered three hours ahead of coming to the restaurant. The only down side to the restaurant we can think of is that the over-zealous waiters would sometimes bring the main course before you have had the time to fully savour the hors d’oeuvre. 4Open 09:00 - 23:00, Closed Sun. €€€. ABPSE Chicken Tikka B-3, Dimitrija Tucovića 3, tel. 45 30 52. Located bellow the north side of the town stadium and specialising, as may be gathered from its name, in chicken dishes. The chicken soup is delicious and if you don’t mind getting your fingers greasy, try grilled chicken wings (€5). In addition to chicken, you can have dishes prepared with other kinds of meat, and various salads. It is quite popular, particularly for family outings. 4Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. €. ABPS

Restaurants

Čerčil (Churchill) C-2, Nikole Pašića 25, tel. 52 51 32. Hugely popular with the locals for business and family lunches alike. The pleasing interior consists of several differently decorated rooms and a greenhouse. The service is excellent and the food is good and varied, the bread is made in-house, but pizzas are a bit of a flop. Meat lovers will be delighted with the T-bone steak. Strangely enough, the kitchen is open only until 21:30 so it is not a place for late dinners. 4Open 09:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 01:00. €€€. APSR Francuz C-2, Mihajla Pupina 6, tel. 452 888. The interior, music or the selection of food in this café and restaurant don’t have the French touch. Upper level with a terrace belongs to the café, while the lower, nicely decorated level is reserved for the restaurant. Stake and sea foods deserve recommendation, as well as the stuff that is always ready to help and recommend. Unlike in other clubs and restaurants in the city, Friday is reserved for 80’s and 90’s pop music. Open: 08:00 – 23:00, closed Sun. €€. AP Garden C-2, Laze Telečkog 5, tel. 661 05 60. A very extensive menu will cater for any taste with its breakfast offer, sandwiches, appetizers, pizzas, salads and various pastas. The specialty of the house are dishes from 13 different world cuisines named after famous painters who were nationals of those countries. The selection of dishes will have you coming back for more. The restaurant offers happy hour with 20% off food and drinks between 18:00 and 19:00. The interior is decked out with posters of Frida Kahlo’s and Diego Rivera’s paintings and murals, and a part of the restaurant is reserved for exhibitions of work by young artists. In the evening, the restaurant terrace operates as a club hosting gigs or DJ performances. 4Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 01:00. €€. ABPGUR6ES

Italian Mediteraneo C-2, Ise Bajića 8, tel. 52 63 22. A very stylish Italian Trattoria only a few steps from the pedestrian zone. Colour ful walls and wrought-iron ornaments give this ambiance a cosy feel. The menu features a fairly large selection of Italian dishes, some of which are cooked to perfection and some would not exactly pass muster in Italy (which does not mean they are bad). You may not always depend on the friendly staff for recommendation as most people in Serbia are easily swayed by the generosity of the portions. 4Open 07:00 - 23:00, Closed Sun. €€. ABP Pasha C-2, Pionirska 1, tel. 661 61 89. The restaurant offers Italian and international dishes. The gnocchi and pastas are all made in-house, and pizza is baked in a wood-fired oven. Fast and discreet service, modern décor, a good selection of wine and rich menu attract many business people. If you get hungry whilst walking round the Danube Park, this place should be your first choice, and if you want to have dinner, you should book ahead. 4Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. APS

Pizzerias

Kuća mala C-2, Laze Telečkog 4, tel. 42 27 28. Offers more than 40 different kinds of pizza made to chef’s original recipes, featuring uncommon ingredients and lots of fresh vegetables. An idyllic atmosphere, just

 The Novi Sad telephone code is +381 21 July - December 2009

Restaurants like in a movie - nice and smiling guests, nice and smiling staff, nice music… Authentic décor of a typical house in the 19th century Vojvodina. 4Open 08:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00. €€. A BPSR Mačak C-2, Beogradska 19, tel. 43 32 00. Located across the Danube in a beautiful setting of an old building with Petrovaradin Fortress as a backdrop. Most diners come here for pizzas, although the restaurant offers quite a selection of various Italian dishes, including light salads suitable for vegetarians. The attentive staff will suggest a local wine to accompany the meal. 4Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sat 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 01:00. €€. PS Pomodoro rosso C-2, Nikole Pašića 14, tel. 42 40 23. A romantic place a stone’s throw from the town centre, serving regional specialities from the Italian town of Modena (incidentally, a sister city of Novi Sad). It boasts the largest selection of pizzas in town and an excellent selection of Italian and local wines. The nice décor and friendly staff create a most inviting ambiance. The prices, a little above the average, are practically the only down side. 4Open 08:00 - 24:00, Closed Sun. €€€. AP SREL

Local Specialties For the main course, most restaurants in Novi Sad will offer roštilj - different types of barbecued meat cuts served with finely chopped onion. Although many world nations prepare their meat in a similar style, Serbs have managed to elevate barbecued meat to an art form, and nowhere else will you have the opportunity to try such specialties. The meat needs to be primed in a particular way before it can be tossed on the grill, typically heated with beech charcoal. Barbecue chefs are a class of their own, and the best of the bunch come from the south-Serbian town of Leskovac. Types of barbecued meat include ćevapčići (cylinder-shaped minced meat), pljeskavice (similar to a hamburger), kobasice (a special, spicy type of sausage for the barbecue), ražnjići (chunks of meat on a skewer), vešalice (boneless pork loin, cut lengthwise), chicken liver rolled in strips of bacon, etc. If you order the Mixed meat, you will get a little of all the above specialties on one plate. If you order the leskovački voz (Leskovac Train), you will get the same combination, but on separate plates that will arrive one by one, so that the various types of meat stay warm.

Serbian

Astal šaren C-2, Mite Ružića 4, tel. 52 80 04. A tiny restaurant with authentic Serbian cuisine and ambiance, its tables covered with check tablecloths. The short menu caters for meat fans, offering various grilled dishes and fresh vegetable salads. The only home-made dish is a veal soup which is a must order. The place is easy on the pocket and the dishes are quickly served, so it is far better to come here than waste your money away on fast food. 4Open 09:00 23:00, Sat 09:00 - 01:00, Closed Sun. €. BPS Bela lađa B-1, Kisačka 21, tel 661 65 94. One of the oldest restaurants in town, delivering genuine Serbian hospitality. It serves large portions of local and international dishes, and the offer includes kid, veal and lamb roast. This place is known for a collection of 2000 bottles of wines from all over the world stacked on shelves 5m high, which line two of the restaurant walls. You can select your wine from the upper shelves and the attentive waiters will get it for you using the ladders conveniently supplied for that purpose. The restaurant offers rooms for rent, so if you have gorged yourself on all that great food and wine and feel somnolent, here is a place to take a nap. 4Open 08:00 - 24:00. €€. A PREL Gusan (The Gander) C-2, Zmaj Jovina 4, tel. 42 55 70. Housed in the basement of a 19th century building (one of the first 4 buildings in town on two floors), this place is something between a restaurant and a pub. It boasts a lovely shady terrace fenced off in the manner of traditional Serbian villages and offers a selection of beers and local dishes at more than reasonable prices. In the evening, it often hosts gigs and DJ performances and draws sizeable crowds. 4Open 09:00 - 24:00. €. E Lipa C-2, Svetozara Miletića 7-9, tel. 661 52 59. One of the oldest restaurants in town, which serves authentic regional dishes, particularly those typical of Vojvodina, at budget prices. The interior has not been intentionally

100Din. = €1.06; GBP0.91; US$1.49 (27 June 2009) Novi Sad In Your Pocket

designed to look retro, it looks exactly as it did 50 years ago, only shabbier. The staff is polite, if a little slow, providing a fitting complement to the ambiance. The menu is based on meat dishes, but vegetarians could manage by ordering vegetable soup, some of the side dishes or grilled mushrooms, as well as a fresh vegetable salad. 4Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 01:00. €. ABS Ognjište B-3, Dimitrija Tucovića 3, tel. 45 05 94. Savoury local specialties, some of which cannot be found anywhere else. The interior, with its stone walls and massive wooden tables is reminiscent of a dim lit mountain lodge. The rustic décor is punctuated by numerous old items from country houses. The portions may be surprisingly large so you should check with the waiters (dressed in folk costumes) what you are getting, because if you go as a couple and you are not ravenously hungry, you may share the main course to make room for the soup and the dessert. Be sure to try teletina ispod sača - succulent veal roasted under an iron bell on coal and ashes. 4Open 09:00 - 01:00. €€. AP

Restaurants Osam tamburaša D-2, Petrovaradin Fortress, tel. 42 11 44. One of the three restaurants on the terrace of Petrovaradin Fortress with magnificent view over the town. It offers a standard selection of local specialties, most of which are delicious, with occasional flops, usually with predictable menu fillers. You should not miss fabulous white polenta with kajmak, paired with ćevapi which is merely adequate. Waiters could use some professional training. The toilet is not up to the standard the restaurant aspires to reach. 4Open 10:30 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:30 01:00. €€. ABPGSREL

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Plava frajla C-2, Sutjeska 2, tel. 661 36 75. A very popular restaurant, famous for its delicious dishes. Finding a table at lunch-time on Sundays is a mission impossible. The quirky interior decorated in Vojvodina style features chairs hanging from the ceiling (avoid only if you have a phobia of chairs falling on your head). A great place to try authentic local dishes. You will be served in-house made hot pita bread with every dish. 4Open 09:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 01:00. €€. ABPESUL Play OFF C-3, Strumička 16, tel. 459 686. A restaurant located on the Danube bank, in a family house over viewing the famous Novi Sad Štrand beach. Restaurant’s terrace and garden are perfect get-aways for hot summer days. Tasty and generous portions offer meat and fish prepared in many ways. Open: 11:00 – 01:00, closed Sun. €€. APRSLB Sokače (Small Alley) B-2, Žitni trg 5, tel 021 66 22 007 It is said that good things are not easy to find, especially when talking about good food. If you are also looking for interesting, unusual interior inspired by 19 century Serbian inns, it’s even harder. But, that is not the way with Sokače, restaurant in the city centre, hidden from the crowd, where food is traditional and traditionally good, served in generous portions with plenty of side dishes and salads. Though not so common in Serbia, this restaurant offers a variety of vegetarian dishes. 4Open: 10.00-23.00, Friday 10.00-01.00, Saturday 12.00-01.00, Sunday 12.00-23.00. €€. P Travica B-2, Branka Bajića 9, tel. 524 044. This traditional national and international cuisine (with excellent roasted lamb) with convivial ambience is also suitable for your business lunches. Wine list offers quality wines from regional vineyards, specially local the ones from the nearby slopes of Fruška Gora. 4Open: 09:00 - 23:00, closed Sun. €€. PGASLB

Seafood

Aqua Doria C-3, Kamenički put bb, tel. 643 31 11. Excellent location (against the backdrop of Petrovaradin Fortress, next to the bridge) and good food have made this floating restaurant very popular. The specialty of the

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house is fish stew, and the offer includes freshwater fish prepared in a variety of ways, grilled meat, and some interesting local specialties such as svadbarski kupus (cabbage slow-cooked with meat and bones of all kinds). The interior is decorated in simple and rustic, real country style, and there is an inviting summer terrace with a protective roof on the shore. People come here to while away long nights with music and wine and to savour their food at leisure. 4Open 09:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 01:00. €€. ABPRSE6L Fish&zeleniš C-2, Skerlićeva 2, tel. 45 20 00. A miniature restaurant offering fish&chips, mussels, zucchini, polenta... something to please everyone’s palate. It is best to book in ahead because it is very popular and always packed (there is no need to book several weeks ahead, a call earlier in the day would do). Great service and scents of potted herbs used to prepare the dishes give it an intimate, relaxed feel. 4Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. €€. ABPGSE Kućerak kod česme B-3, Ribarsko ostrvo bb, tel. 50 05 20. Situated on the Fishing Island, boasting a fine open terrace with a protective roof and a splendid view over the Danube. Its interior is also quite nice. The menu predominantly features freshwater fish specialties, and there are several meat dishes and a kids menu. You shouldn’t worry about bones in the fish chowder - they have been removed. Incidentally, this is the only place in town where you can order escargot. A band of tambura (long necked lute instruments) players performs on Thursdays, Fridays, and Saturdays. 4Open 09:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 01:00. €. AB PGSE6L Parobrod D-2, Petrovaradinski kej bb, tel. (063) 59 89 98. A floating restaurant, specialising in freshwater fish, situated against the backdrop of Petrovaradin Fortress, right next to the bridge. The massive wooden tables are made in the shape of a boat, and large windows enjoy view of Novi Sad on the opposite bank of the Danube. They serve fish chowder in small cauldrons, and the specialty of the house is catfish stew (bones removed). The wild carp caught in the river (far tastier than the carp bred in fish farms) are kept in a cage in the Danube right next to the restaurant, as fresh as can be. 4Open 09:00 - 24:00. €€. ABPGE

July - December 2009

CafÉs Absolut C-2, Zmaj Jovina 12, tel. 42 24 26. Situated on the first floor of an old downtown building. Its original interior has an intimate feel, as if you were in someone’s apartment packed with sofas and coffee tables. The music is subtle enough for conversation and there is a good choice of quality wines, cocktails and teas. Popular with patrons of different ages. 4Open 09:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 01:00. ABGE6L

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Bookstore-café Nublu C-2, Žarka Zrenjanina 12, tel. 52 53 65. A café, gallery and bookstore, all in one. Very interesting ambiance complemented by subtle lighting and airy music, where you can leaf through various books over a cup of coffee or buy a painting of an up-and-coming artist as a souvenir from Novi Sad (they have really good paintings). 4Open 09:00 - 23:00, Closed Sun. BG6E Cuba-Libre C-2, Laze Telečkog 13, tel. (065)270 76 86. Café & Gallery drawing happy and smiling people who love Cuban, Brazilian and Reggae music. If you are down, this is the place to cheer you up. The bar with an excellent selection of rum and exotic cocktails is on the lower level, where the partying goes on. The gallery upstairs, furnished with plush chairs, is a perfect spot to wind down and have a chat. Occasional live percussion performances bring the house down. 4Open 09:00 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 - 01:00, Sun 16:00 - 23:00. BE Fićkić C-2, Zmaj Jovina 22, tel. 661 50 88. A tiny (literally) small café in a passage-way, hugely popular on account of its lovely summer terrace. A perfect spot for a lazy afternoon coffee after a tour of the town. They also serve draft beer and fruit cocktails. 4Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 01:00. BP6UE Greenet C-2, Bulevar Mihajla Pupina 1, tel. 42 35 57. A branch of a Belgrade café chain, located on the first floor of Bazar shopping mall. Popular with Novi Sad chic girls taking a break from arduous shopping. The specialty of the house is the mocha. Take-away coffee is also served in heat-conserving cups, and you can also purchase various blends of ground coffee to prepare at home. You may skip the dessert. 4Open 09:00 - 21:00. AP Hedonist C-2, Zmaj Jovina 26/I, tel. 52 94 38. This is a sophisticated spot - you wouldn’t want to go there wearing shorts and sneakers. The interior features crimson walls, stylish furniture and parquet floor. There are occasional live music performances adding to the rarefied atmosphere, so don’t expect wild parties. It is a perfect place to wind down with a Cuban cigar and a glass of cognac or pleasantly surprise the significant other who likes secret hideaways known only to insiders. 4Open 09:00 - 23:00. APE Trčika C-2, Kralja Aleksandra 14, tel. (064)112 45 88. A café that will certainly draw your attention as it is housed in an old tram carriage which once upon a time, in early 20th century, took bathers to the Štrand beach on the Danube. Its authentic interior and the strategic position at the very beginning of the pedestrian zone is very appealing to those who like to sip their drink whilst leisurely observing whatever is going on in the street and passing comments. 4Open 09:00 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 - 01:00. B6

 The Novi Sad telephone code is +381 21 Novi Sad In Your Pocket

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Vremeplov (Time Machine) B-2, Bulevar oslobođenja 96, tel. 661 18 55. A large selection of cakes, desserts, coffee varieties and drinks. Non-smokers are not advised to order a ‘Humphrey Bogart’ featuring a short espresso, a Camel (the regular, unfiltered variety) and a match. Although housed in a rather new building, it is furnished in the early 20th century style, its décor punctuated by authentic items from that period. You can also enjoy your dessert in the lovely greenhouse. 4Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 01:00. ABPUR6L Žak C-2, Šafarikova 6, tel 021 44 75 45, 44 75 65. Located at the city centre, in a house with interesting history. Café and garden on the ground floor and restaurant inspired by Gustav Klimt offer good time and international cuisine. Start with bread with olives or salmon carpaccio, don’t miss foie gras with orange sauce, but leave enough place for dessert. If not hungry, you can always enjoy some wine from restaurant’s wine card, or coffee with supreme Austro-Hungarian pies and pleasant conversations with music, mostly jazz or piano, in the background. 4Open: 08.00-23.00, Friday-Saturday 08:00-01:00, Sunday 08:00-23:00. BP

Nightlife 100Din. = €1.06; GBP0.91; US$1.49 (27 June 2009) Club Soul C-2, Svetozara Miletića 40, tel (065) 811 12 22. Completely new club for electronic music fans for members and their guests only (to become a guest, you just need to have your ID on you at the entrance). 120 m2 of loud music chosen by our hottest DJs. 4Open: 22:00 - 03:00, closed Ponedeljak, utorak i sreda. PG Foxtrot B-2, Futoška 23, tel. 662 29 04. This wood panelled café is firm favourite with jazz, rock and blues lovers. Over the day it is a pleasant spot for a sip of drink whilst reading newspapers, and in the evening the place gets swinging, its air thick with smoke. Gigs on weekends. 4Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 01:00. BP pušači, 6RE

Almost everyone who visits Novi Sad is taken by its laid-back vibe. People are easy-going and known throughout Serbia for their philosophy of eating, drinking and living in the slow lane. No wonder, then, that its night scene lacks the hectic buzz of Belgrade nightlife. But fear not, you will find plenty to enjoy. Those who like clubbing will have terrific time on Petrovaradin Fortress and you cannot go wrong if you visit small Laze Telečkog street in the downtown pedestrian zone, packed with cafés, restaurants and clubs. Beer bar Brod C-3, Štrand beach, tel.(064)232 73 52. This lovely restaurant by the Danube bank stretches the tables all the way to the river. During the Exit festival large bars made for after parties will welcome you. The best way to spend hot summer night is to come to the river, enjoy a cold drink and surrounded by cheerful people dancing on the beach to modern music. Day parties will also be organised. 4Open: 08:00 - 24:00. BE Bunker Hill C-2, Dunavska 23(passage), (062)258 085. Relax and warm up in one of the passages in Dunavska street with local DJs. Excellent music (and by excellent, we mean just that) and laid back, ‘feel at home away from home’ atmosphere play are the good reason to spend your free time there. During the Exit Festival, every day from 15 to 19h, resident DJs will warm up the atmosphere with liquid, down tempo, hip hop, d’n’b, Brazilian and jungle. 4Open: 09:00 01:00, Sat., Sun. 09:00 - 03:00. PGLB

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Giardino C-2, Bulevar Mihajla Pupina 1, tel. 489 87 40. A large club with modern décor on the roof-top of the Bazar shopping mall. Its two stylish open terraces enjoy stunning views over the town. It is a perfect place for a relaxed coffee to mark the end of a shopping spree or to start off a night of club hopping. If you’re not into club hopping, this is one place where you’ll want to stay put, particularly on evenings with live music. And if you get hungry, you can order a variety of light Italian dishes or some dessert. 4Open 09:00 - 01:00. ABPURE Jelisavetin bastion (Elisabeth’s Bastion) D -2, Petrovaradin Fortress. An extraordinary venue consisting of several rooms with arched roofs, where cannons were positioned once upon a time. You are rather impressed even before you step inside - the access to the club is in narrow and beautifully lit hallways leading away from the parking in front of the Art Academy. The venue is laid out in the way that allows for different music to be played in different parts of the club and there is a large space in front, hosting terrific parties in summer with revellers still dancing at sunrise. 4Open 16:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 05:00. BEL Kazamat D-2, Petrovaradin Fortress, (064)640 79 76. Located in the lower part of the town Museum. Its wooden flooring, stone bar and semi-circular arches lit by disco lights make it the most elegant disco in Novi Sad. Each night will feature a different theme, including gigs, DJ’s events and retro music. The best time to visit on a weekend is around 01:00. The prices are a little higher than usual. 4Open 21:00 - 04:00. PEL London club C-2, Laze Telečkog 15, tel. 42 18 81. Brick walls and floors, wooden tables and the Union Jack. A large selection of draft beer (including Guinness) and spirits. You get to hear the 80s and 90s chart hits and rock gigs are hosted regularly. It is not uncommon for girls to end up dancing on the bar. 4Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 03:00. BURE6 Martha’s Pub C-2, Laze Telečkog 3, tel. 61 10 38. You will recognise it by the quirky sign above the entrance saying ‘God save the pumpkins’. Contagious positive vibes and relaxed atmosphere. One of the best spots to go out for a drink even if you are on your own, because you will soon get the feeling that all guests are part of one large happy crowd. If you are bold enough, try medovača - honey flavoured brandy. 4Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 01:00. B

July - December 2009

Nightlife

Ritmo Latino C-2, Sremska 9, tel. 52 80 95. As its name suggests, this place features hot Latino rhythms bringing even the would-be wallflowers out onto the floor. Fridays are usually reserved for RNB & Hip-Hop Night, and Saturdays for D.J. performances or gigs. Very popular hangout, with nice interior decorated with flags from all over the world. 4Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 01:00. BGPER Route 66 B-3, Bulevar Despota Stefana 5, tel. 635 07 90. A popular club, operating as a café by day, housed in an airy, warehouse-feeling venue spread over two levels. It is spacious enough to support sizeable crowds drawn by pop, rock, jazz and blues gigs (something to suit everyone’s taste) which start around 23:00. The club sometimes features DJ events. 4Open 08:00 - 01:00. BRPEL RST Club B-3, Bulevar despota Stefana 5, tel: 46 89 76. A nice and unpretentious spot known for live events almost every night, featuring local pop and rock or global mainstream hits. The bar and the stage are on the lower level, and there are comfy chairs on the upper level to provide a quieter place to chill. While there are no wild parties, there is plenty of good laid-back fun. 4Open 08:00 - 01:00. PER Skipper, Ribarsko ostrvo bb. The club is located on a boat moored by the Fishing Island (don’t try to get there on foot, take a taxi). As you dance to electronic music on its glass-walled upper deck, you will enjoy a great view of the Danube and the Freedom Bridge. The dance floor is surrounded with high tables and bar stools. The best parties are on Thursdays, Fridays, and Saturdays. 4Open 23:00 - 03:00. PE Skochko’s bar C-2, Zmaj Jovina 21/1, tel 021 66 16 401. New bar with a vide range of both alcohol and nonalcohol cocktails, based on coffee. Walls are covered with paintings of artists from Novi Sad, and space is filled with nice smell of Cuban cigars. This meeting point is the right choice

Novi Sad In Your Pocket

if you wish to have a pleasant conversation with friends. 4Open: 08.00-23.30, Friday-Saturday 08:00-01:00, Sunday 08:00-23:00. B Sterija C-2, Pozorišni trg 1. One of the more popular clubs in town. Located in the building of the Serbian National Theatre, it is favourite with the actors. In daytime, you can chill out in the large terrace, but in the evening, the main events take place inside. There are live performances by local pop and rock bands almost every night. It does not seem that too much care has been given to the interior design and the impression is further marred by a plasma TV hanging on a wall and featuring a local TV station. It is a universal truth that TV sets in cafés have an uncanny way of absorbing attention and killing the conversation. 4Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 03:00. BPE Wheels, Natošićeva 4, tel. 52 25 57. The only all jazz club in town. Like any other jazz club, it draws people who come to listen to good music and weigh up the performers, and who could not care less about the décor of the club or the outfit of its patrons. Apart from the mainstream jazz, on certain nights the club features French gitan jazz, electro jazz, and even fado and flamenco performances. 4Open 19:00 - 01:00. PE

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What to see Essentials Downtown - pedestrian zone C-2. The heart of the old town features almost all must-see attractions in Novi Sad. The pedestrian zone consists of Zmaj Jovina, Pašićeva, Svetozara Miletića, Laze Telečkog, part of Dunavska streets, Katolička porta and Trg slobode squares. The Freedom Square (Trg slobode) has been the stage for most significant events, whether cultural or political. It is also the usual rendezvous point and the man place for feeding fat pigeons.

The street ends with the building of the Bishop’s Palace, which is the see of the Bačka Episcopacy of the Serbian Orthodox Church (built in 1901), with the Cathedral Church (Saborna) right behind. The corner of Zmaj Jovina and Dunavska streets is the location of the oldest preserved house in Novi Sad (1720) known as ‘At the White Lion’s’, which nowadays houses the Irish Pub. Dunavska street, also packed with shops and cafés, leads towards the Danube Park and the Danube river. At the beginning of the street, you can see one of the pockmarks on the town face - the cannon ball which remained buried in the building exterior walls (where it landed during the 1849 shelling of the town). A characteristic feature of these old streets are numerous passageways and courtyards concealing many restaurants, cafés and boutiques, so plunge in and enjoy. The latest town attraction is the small street of Laze Telečkog, full of cafés, bars and restaurants. The green symbol of the town C-2 The living, green symbol of Novi Sad is the Hackberry (Celtis Australis) tree located in the promenade zone in Modene street. This 18 m tall giant has a treetop 22 m in diameter and the perimeter of the trunk is around 3,5 m. It was protected as a Natural monument in 1978 due to its biological and outstanding ambient value.

The square is dominated by two buildings facing one another: City Hall built in 1895 (an exact copy of the City Hall in Graz) and the Name of Mary Roman Catholic Church known as the Cathedral, built in 1895 in the neo-gothic style. The square is encircled by the ‘lead soldier’ building from 1909 (dubbed so after the sculpture of an armoured soldier carrying a halberd, perched on the top of the building), Bank of Vojvodina building (erstwhile Grand Hotel Mayer) and the long two-floor building of Vojvodina Hotel from 1746 (the oldest hotel in town). A monument to Svetozar Miletić, Novi Sad mayor and a champion of political rights of the Serbs in the 19th century occupies the centre of the square. From there, the pedestrian zone further stretches to Zmaj Jovina Street, the main promenade and the commercial centre of the town. The street is lined with numerous openterrace cafés and pastry shops, favourite with those who love to sit back and idly watch the world go by. A monument to Jovan Jovanović Zmaj (Zmaj - Dragon), Serbian doctor and poet, loved for his nursery rhymes, is at the far end of the street. He is also known as the author of the first postcard in the world (sent from Vienna in 1870, featuring a dragon, what else).

Štrand C-3, on the Danube bank at the far end of Bulevar Oslobođenja. Štrand, a lido on the Danube is the focal point of entertainment for all ages during the hot summer days. As many as 15,000 people come daily to the lido: old men playing chess, families enjoying a picnic, men and women indulging in a bit of dalliance, beach babes and posers who come to see and be seen, and anyone looking for good fun in the sun. Set against the background of a large park with deep shade, this 700m long lido has regular beach facilities, including toilets, showers, 700 changing booths rented out for the entire season, security and lifeguard services, emergency paramedics, several cafés and restaurants. In summer, Štrand hosts numerous events and sports competitions. You need to be careful when you swim in the Danube because of its strong currents that may quickly overtake you if you are not a good swimmer. The water purity is checked and while it is safe for swimming, it is not safe to drink, so keep your mouth closed as you swim. 4Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 02:00. Admission 40 dinars, free after 22:00. Petrovaradin Fortress D-2. One of the largest fortresses in Europe. It was built and rebuilt between 1692 and 1780, its design based on the system of fortification developed by French Marquis de Vauban. The fortress covers an area of 112 hectares, and has 13 gates and 16km of underground passages spread over 4 levels. Owing to its size, thick walls and 400 cannons, it was considered unconquerable and earned the name of the ‘Gibraltar on the Danube’. The

July - December 2009

What to see erstwhile barracks and underground passages are nowadays converted into the premises of the Museum of the City and numerous art ateliers, galleries, and artisan workshops. The terrace of the fortress, by the Clock Tower, boasts splendid views of the town. The clock on the Tower is unique in that the big hand tells hours and the small one minutes. This was allegedly done so that the boatmen travelling on the Danube could see the time from a long distance. The clock is slow when it is cold and fast when it is hot, so people have dubbed it a ‘drunken clock’. The fortress features several restaurants and night clubs and it is famous for EXIT - the best music festival in Europe 2007. Were it not for the scarcity of garbage bins and rather random park cleaning service, it would have been perfect. You may get to the top plateau of the fortress by car, just follow the signs for Leopold Hotel. If on your way up you should see a lonely vehicle and some commotion inside, don’t worry, with the crime rate so small as in Novi Sad, that must be an amorous couple, but give it a wide berth anyway. The long arched passage is too narrow for two-way traffic, so do follow the instructions by the officers placed at its ends, who communicate the arrival of vehicles to one another over the radio set. You can get to the fortress by bus Nº3, taxi, or take a leisurely walk, because it is not too far. The bridges The first temporary pontoon bridge was erected in 16 century by Turkish army, before that inhabitants and soldiers had used ferry boat to cross the river Danube. First permanent, iron bridge named Franz Joseph, designed by Karl Baumann, was built in 1883. The remains of this bridge can still be seen. Novi Sad bridges were demolished and rebuilt couple of times during city’s history. There are three bridges that connect the Danube banks today: Varadin bridge, Raillway and Liberty bridge.

Novi Sad In Your Pocket

Jewish Novi Sad Jewish community Novi Sad B-2, Jevrejska 11, tel. 42 38 82. The Jewish community of Novi Sad was allowed to build its first synagogue in the early 18th century. The local Jewish community belonged culturally to the Hungarian Jewry. Only about a quarter of the more than 4,000 Jews of Novi Sad survived the Holocaust that followed the German invasion of Yugoslavia in 1941 and the annexation of Novi Sad to Hungary. Over 800 Jews of Novi Sad - men, women and children of all ages - were murdered during massacres conducted by the Hungarian police against Jews and Serbs in January 1942. In May 1944, the synagogue of Novi Sad served as an arrest house for the Jews of Novi Sad and it was from there that they were deported to the Nazi extermination camps. The synagogue was consecrated again in 1945 when it became the focal point of the revived Jewish life in the city. The Jewish population of Novi Sad dwindled further as many members of the local community chose to immigrate to Israel and other countries in the 1950’s. There were an estimated 400 Jews in Novi Sad in the early years of the 21st century. Synagogue B -2, Jevrejska 11. One of Novi Sad landmarks This impressive building in the style of Hungarian secession was completed in 1909. As the Jewish community no longer could support the costs of maintenance, in 1991 it was leased to the city for a period of twenty five years. Taking advantage of the fine acoustics of the synagogue building, the city, having restored the interior, decided to use it as a concert hall for classic and other music events. The Jewish community, nevertheless, is able use the synagogue whenever it wishes, as they do each year, for celebrating major Jewish holidays.

What to see Historic Churches When you visit churches and other religious buildings, you are expected to behave respectfully and speak quietly. Churches are open throughout the day and you can enter even during a service, but try not to interrupt it or draw attention to yourself. You are not allowed to enter wearing shorts, flip-flops, a mini skirt, with your belly exposed... Women are not allowed in the altar area behind the iconostasis. Taking photos with permission only.

Parks & Gardens The Danube Park C-2. The main town park and the loveliest. Once there was a fen overgrown with reeds on its site, which was developed into a park in 1895. Today there is a smallish lake in the heart of the park, which has a tiny island in its middle and ducks and swans are gliding in the lake. The park boasts over 250 species of plants, numerous sculptures, and part of it is turned into a kids playground.

St. Nicholas Church C-2, Nikolajevska porta. Built in the baroque style in 1730, it is the oldest Orthodox church in Novi Sad. The original decorations were destroyed in the 1849 shelling of Novi Sad. The sons of Mileva and Albert Einstein were baptised in this church. The Cathedral Orthodox Church of Saint George (Saborna) C-2, Pašićeva. The Saborna Church was built in the baroque style in 1734. Heavily damaged in the 1849 shelling, it was renovated in 1880. The beautiful iconostasis was done by famous Serbian painter Paja Jovanović. The cross in the churchyard is the oldest preserved monument in Novi Sad, dating from the 18th century.

Museums

The Pavle Beljanski Memorial Collection C-2, Trg Galerija 2, tel. 472 99 66. The legacy of Pavle Beljanski, a diplomat and art collector. The collection features paintings by finest Serbian artists of the first half of the 20th century (including Nadežda Petrović, Sava Šumanović and Petar Lubarda) as well as sculptures, drawings and tapestries. 4Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00, Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 100 dinars, children 50 dinars. Museum of Vojvodina C-2, Dunavska 35-37, tel. 42 05 66, www.muzejvojvodine.org.rs. A permanent display of archaeological, historical and ethnographic artefacts relevant to Vojvodina, dating from the Palaeolithic to the middle of the 20th century. Three helmets from late Antique, that is Roman period, only one being displayed, and two under restoration, are very impressive. These priceless helmets are considered to be made in IV century. 4Open 09:00 - 17:00, Closed Mon. Admission 100 dinars, children and students 50 dinars.

The Name of Mary Parish Church - The Cathedral C-2, Trg slobode. A Roman Catholic church, built in 1895 in the neo-gothic style on the foundation of an old Roman Catholic church. It has stained-glass windows and the altar made of carved wood from Tyrol. The church sometimes schedules concerts on the organs.

 The Novi Sad telephone code is +381 21 July - December 2009

What to see City Museum of Novi Sad D-2, Petrovaradin Fortress, upper plateau, tel. 43 31 45. A permanent exhibition of fine and applied arts from 1748 to the middle of the 20th century. It also features an archaeological collection of artefacts from the prehistoric era, Roman period and the Middle Ages. 4Open 09:00 - 17:00, Closed Mon. Admission 200 dinars, children 100 dinars. City Museum of Novi Sad - Gunboat Exhibition Space (Topovnjača) D-2, Petrovaradin Fortress, tel. 43 31 45. An exhibition put on by the department for cultural history, featuring a selection from the collections of fine and applied arts assembled over the past five decades. All the artefacts on display are related to the people and events from the history of Novi Sad from 1748 to the middle of the 20th century. This collection will show you how people used to live in Novi Sad. 4Open 09:00 - 17:00, Closed Mon. Admission 100 dinars, children 50 dinars. City Museum of Novi Sad - Underground Military Galleries D-2, Petrovaradin Fortress, tel. 43 31 45. Don’t miss out on one of the largest networks of underground passages in Europe. The system of underground passages (galleries) has 16km of tunnels spread over four levels, with as many as 12,000 loopholes. Visitors are permitted to view only a part of the passageways, 1km long. 4Open 09:00 - 17:00, Closed Mon. Organized tours only.

Out of Town Fruška Gora Mountain. Fruška Gora mountain stretches over the southern border of the Panonia plain except a small western section which lies Croatia. Its highest peak is „Crveni čot“ at 539 m. This is a natural habitat of rare animals and herbs, a large part of it was declared National park in 1960. During the Roman time, Emperor Probus brought the wine grapes to the Fruška Gora. Since than, the Fruška Gora slopes have well suited for grapes and there are many wine makers. The best sorts of wines are Riesling, Traminer and Bermet . Fruška Gora is close to Novi Sad (20 minutes drive), but far enough so visitors can enjoy and rest in the beautiful surroundings. This „small mountain“ also offers artificial lakes, mountain paths (800 km marked

City Museum of Novi Sad - Foreign Art Collection C-2, Dunavska 29, tel. 55 12 39. A permanent display of Doctor Branko Ilić’s legacy, consisting of the Western European schools from the Renaissance to the 20th century, as well as applied arts items. 4Open 09:00 17:00, Closed Mon. Admission 100 dinars, children 50 dinars. Museum Fantasy C-2, Kosovska 18a, 426 778, www. muzejfantasy.com. First Serbian toy and wax museum exhibits more that 5000 objects from the period1880 – 2006. Chess boards (Mokarex), lead soldiers, papiermâché objects and toy trains show the historic importance of games and toys throughout the world. Admission: 200 dinars, children 150 dinars.

100Din. = €1.06; GBP0.91; US$1.49 (27 June 2009)

What to see Patriarchal Palace (displaying artefacts from the treasury of the Museum of the Serbian Orthodox Church) orthodox churches (Cathedral, Lower and Upper Churches), a Roman Catholic church, Museum of the City, City Hall (Magistrat) from whose balcony Serbian Vojvodina was declared in 1848, a pharmacy in Straser house (from early 19th century, still functioning), ‘Four Lions’ fountain (the legend says that whoever drinks from the fountain will come back to Sremski Karlovci some day). By all means visit the museum of honey and sample wines in wine cellars. Sremski Karlovci is famous for its authentic liqueur wine, Bermet, rumoured to have been enjoyed by those on the Titanic. If you get hungry, pick one of the restaurants featuring Serbian cuisine: A Small House in Srem (Kućerak u Sremu), Four Lions or the Danube fish restaurant. Sremski Karlovic hosts various events throughout the year - ‘Brankovo kolo’ (festival of poetry), grape harvest celebration, art colonies... Guided tours of Fruška Gora and Sremski Karlovci: Elnostours C-2, Maksima Gorkog 10, tel. 52 82 44. Magelan Co. C-2, Zmaj Jovina 23, tel. 472 40 88.

trails), two health paths (Popovica 3,5 km & Stražilovo 4 km), historical monuments, monasteries ... The hospitable environment of Fruška Gora made possible 35 Serbian Orthodox monasteries to be built. Unfortunately, only 16 monasteries are still active. Tourist information centre of the Fruška Gora National park is located at Iriški venac, right next to monument, providing info, guide services and gift shop. Work days: every day, except Monday.

Farmhouse life (Serbian SALAŠ) Farmhouses, the keepers of time and the traditional way of life, with their authentic design take us „back in time“ to Pannonian rural settlements. Village atmosphere in the vicinity of Novi Sad is the ideal place for rest and relaxation from everyday urban life.

Fruška Gora monasteries Many legends are associated with foundation of monasteries. According to the first written document they were founded from the15 to the 18 century as an endowment of Serbian despots. They are the Keepers of the identity of Serbian people. The tample, small church (some of them), bell tower, sleeping quarters, farm buildings and cultivable soil are a part of a monastery complex. Monasteries are: Krušedol, Grgeteg, Velika Remeta, Novo Hopovo, Staro Hopovo, Ravanica, Jazak, Mala Remeta, Rakovac, Beočin, Šišatovac, Petkovica, Kuveždin, Divša, Privina Glava, Bešenovo. Notable persons from Serbian history lie buried in Krušedol Monastery: Despot Đurađ Branković, King Milan Obrenović, Princess Ljubica, Patriarch Arsenije III Čarnojević... Most of the monasteries were ravaged and looted during the 2nd World War and they enjoy UNESCO protection (wich did not stop Nato forces from damaging six monasteries in the 1999 air campaign against Serbia). Sremski Karlovci. A small town on the Danube bank, some 6km away from Novi Sad. It is rightly called a townmuseum, due to its remarkably preserved town nucleus in the baroque style, dating from the 18th and 19th centuries. You can make a tour of all the attractions on foot. The first mention of this settlement dates back from 1308. In 1713, when the see of the Orthodox Metropolitan Bishop moved to Karlovci, it became the spiritual and cultural centre of Serbs in the 18th and 19th centuries. The first Serbian grammar school opened in Karlovci in 1791 and still is functional. You can also see the

www.inyourpocket.com July - December 2009

MAIL & PHONES Posting a letter

The postal code for Novi Sad is 21000. If you have stamps, you can pop your letters and postcards into a post box (post boxes come in different sizes and colours, but are all marked with logo Pošta) or leave them at the post office. The price of a standard letter for delivery in Serbia is 20 dinars, and for delivery worldwide 46 dinars (regardless of the destination). International mail (other than standard letters) is delivered to the post office unsealed, to allow for customs inspection if necessary.

Post

Post office C-2, Narodnih Heroja 2, tel. 61 47 08, 4Open 07:00 - 19:00, Sun 07:00 - 12:00 Post office B-3, Vojvođanska 5, tel. 46 71 01, 4Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00, Closed Sun Post office C-2, Trg Marije Trandafil 10, tel. 42 30 85, 4Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00, Closed Sun.

Express Mail

DHL C-2, Apolo Centre, Trg Slobode 3, tel. 661 48 92. 4Open 08:00 - 16:00, Closed Sat, Sun. Post Express, tel. (011)360 76 07. Operating in the territory of Srbija. 4Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00, Closed Sun.

Making a phonecall

To call a local number within Novi Sad, dial the number directly, and to make a call to another area, dial the relevant area code first. To call abroad, dial the international access code (99), followed by the country code, the area code and the phone number. When you are making a call to a mobile, first dial the prefix of the mobile phone. To call a land line from a mobile, you need to dial the area code before the phone number (the area code for Novi Sad is 021). You can make a telephone call from Halo telephone booths. You will need a Halo telephone card (for local and international calls) or Halo Plus telephone card (for international calls only) available at kiosks and post offices for 300 and 600 dinars respectively. A call to the UK or the USA with one Halo card will last about 8.5 and 4.5 minutes respectively. A Halo Plus card allows longer calls: 40 minuta with the UK or 30 minutes with the USA. When buying Halo Plus card you must choose between three types of the card: for overseas calls, for calls to European countries, and for calls to the countries of the former Yugoslavia.

Mobile phones

There are three mobile operators in Serbia: MTS (064, 065), Telenor, (062, 063) and VIP Mobile (060, 061). Pre-paid packages and recharge cards for all three networks are available at their retail shops, kiosks and supermarkets, and in case of MTS network in post offices as well. MTS C-2, Modene 3, tel. 42 11 03, www.mts.telekom. rs. 4Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00, Closed Sun. Telenor C-2, Modena 1-3, www.telenor.rs. 4Open 08:00 - 20:00, Mon 08:00 - 22:00, Closed Sun. Vip mobile C-2, Zmaj Jovina 16, www.vipmobile.rs. 4Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 17:00, Closed Sun.

 The Novi Sad telephone code is +381 21

Important phone numbers Police: 92 Fire Department: 93 Ambulance: 94 Road assistance: 987 Phone numbers information: 988

Dial-up connection

Internet access that does not requre any sign-up or adjusting the settings, charged through your monthly telephone invoice, tel. 042 21 01 10. Username and password: Any.

WiFi Hotspots

Dunavski Park C-2 Ritmo Latino C-2, Sremska 9, tel. 52 80 95 Route 66 B-3, Bulevar Despota Stefana 5, tel. 635 07 90

Getting around Taxis

Train Schedule

Avoid taxi drivers that do not belong to any taxi company (their taxi roof signs display only ‘taxi’ without stating a company name), who usually hang around the Railway station and accost travellers. They will overcharge you either by negotiating an exorbitant fare or using a fast meter. Inside the taxi, the price list and ID card of the driver must be in clear view. Your fare is shown on the meter. Taxi fare in Novi Sad is quite easy on the pocket: there is a start-up fee of 25-35 dinars and the rate per kilometre is 40 dinars. There is a luggage charge of 10 dinars per piece. You can ask the taxi driver about the hotels, restaurants, or indeed anything you would like to know about the city or local politics. Most taxi drivers are smokers, but you can request a non-smoking vehicle or simply ask the driver to extinguish the cigarette.

From Novi Sad Dep. Arr. 09:04 09:52+2 09:04 22:30 22:52 09:00

Trusted taxi companies Lux taxi, tel. 30 00 00 Novus taxi, tel. 50 07 00 Pan taxi, tel 45 55 55

Car parks

The central part of the town is divided into two parking zones: red and blue. You can pay for parking either by filling out a parking coupon or sending an SMS message. The parking is limited to two hours in the red zone (that means that you first pay for the initial hour and on its expiry, pay again), whilst in the blue zone there are no parking limits (you extend the parking on the hour). If you use the parking coupon, you should scratch the relevant fields for the year, month, day, hour and minute of the beginning of parking session and display the coupon on the inside of the windscreen. For SMS: send an SMS message with the number of the licence plates (no space, capital letters) to 8211 for the red zone and 8212 for the blue zone. The price of one hour of parking is 20 dinars. Parking at the Štrand beach can also be paid by SMS sent to number 8213.

Public transport

Public transport in Novi Sad is fairly quick and reliable. It is comprised only of buses, whose schedule depends on the line, but most buses run at 10 to 15 minute intervals from 04:30 do 24:00. There are only single-ride tickets, which you

City MOSCOW PRAGUE VIENNA

To Novi Sad Dep. Arr. 21:31 19:00+2 21:31 19:00 18:50 04:40

Schedule is subject to change. Novi Sad In Your Pocket cannot be held responsible for any changes to the times shown here. can buy on board, from the driver, on entering the bus. The price of the fare is 40 dinars.

Trains

Railway Station B-2, Bulevar Jaše Tomića 6, tel. 44 31 99. Serbian railways are in poor repair, as a result of a long-lasting economic crisis. Railway carriages are very old and the train speed does not exceed 80km/h. Delays and inexplicable stoppage occur with maddening regularity, so if you want to travel round the country in relative speed and comfort, go for long distance buses. Those who love trains should not miss a ride on Šargan Eight (a narrow gauge heritage railway offering one of the most picturesque routes in the world). Tickets for regular local and international lines are available at Railway Station.

Buses

Bus services account for the bulk of domestic passenger traffic in Serbia. There are buses for big towns running at frequent intervals throughout the day. Novi Sad has two bus stations for international travel. Where you will end up depends on your bus operator. The Central Bus Station Sad is well linked to all parts of the town through the public transport network. Central Bus Station B-2, Bulevar Jaše Tomića 6, tel. 44 40 21, 44 40 22, 44 40 23 ATP Vojvodina Bus Station A -1 , Novosadskog partizanskog odreda 1a, tel. 488 97 77.

Car rental

Autotehna B-3, Balzakova 29, tel. 47 45 16, www. autotehna.com. 4Open 07:00 - 18:00, Sat 07:00 - 14:00, Closed Sun Hertz B-2, Jevrejska 23 (passage), tel. 52 97 19, www. hertz.co.yu. 4Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 16:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00

International Bus Schedule From Novi Sad Days Dep. --3--612:00 --3---12:30 ------7 14:30 -----67 12:30 1234567 12:30 1234567 12:30 1---5-7 09:30 13:00 1234567 12:30 ------7 09:15 --3---13:15 1234567 12:15 1234567 12:30 1234567 09:30 1234567 11:00 -2---619:15

Arr. 18:55 13:00 15:30 13:00 16:00 10:15 22:15 15:00 04:00 01:30 05:30 20:30 07:00 15:30 17:30 15:50

Destination AMSTERDAM BERLIN BERLIN BERLIN DORTMUND FRANKFURT GÖTEBORG GÖTEBORG MUNCHEN PRAGUE PRAGUE SARAJEVO STUTGART ZAGREB ZAGREB ZURICH

To Novi Sad Days --3--6-2--------5-------61234567 1234567 ----5-7 ----5-1234567 1---------5-1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 -2---5-

Dep. 07:00 10:00 10:00 10:00 06:00 12:45 00:00 22:00 19:30 18:00 18:00 13:30 16:00 08:00 09:00 16:00

Arr. 13:55 10:30 10:30 10:30 10:30 10:30 12:40 22:00 10:30 09:45 09:45 21:30 10:30 14:00 15:20 14:15

Schedule is subject to change. Novi Sad In Your Pocket cannot be held responsible for any changes to the times shown here.

July - December 2009

Lifestyle directory Health Clinics & Hospitals Ambulace B-2. tel. 94 Clinical Centre of Vojvodina BBB, Hajduk Veljka 1, tel. 484 34 84. Emergency Centre (on duty 24hrs). Private practices Pekić C-2, Grčkoškolska 3, tel. 52 52 61. 4 Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00, Closed Sun.NS Lab C-2, Svetozara Miletića 24, tel. 52 00 92. 4 Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00, Closed Sun. Dentists Oral B Čukić B-3, Narodnog fronta 20, tel. 46 70 06. 4 Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00, Closed Sun. Pharmacies (on duty 24 hours) Viva B-2, Bulevar Oslobođenja 105, tel. 662 23 34.

Banks

Banca Intesa C-2, Bulevar Mihajla Pupina 4 Erste Bank B-2, Bulevar oslobođenja 5, tel. 0800 201 201 Komercijalna Bank B-2, Kralja Petra I 11, tel. 52 12 86 Meridian Bank- Credit Agricole Group B-2, Braće Ribnikar 4-6, tel. 487 68 76 Metals Bank C-2, Bulevar Mihajla Pupina 25, tel. 557347 NLB Continental Bank C-2, Trg Mladenaca 1-3, tel. 661 55 00 OTP Bank C-2, Grčkoškolska 2, tel. 42 61 93 Piraeus Bank C-2, Kralja Aleksandra 3, tel. 42 01 08

Raiffeisen Bank B-2, Bulevar Oslobođenja 56a, tel. 488 01 44 Vojvođanska Bank C-2, Trg slobode 5-7, tel. 488 66 00

Business connections

Privredna komora Vojvodine B-2, Hajduk Veljkova 11, tel. 480 37 03 Poslovni centar NIS B-3, Narodnog fronta 12, tel. 481 20 33

Business facilities

Kongresni centar Master B-2, Hajduk Veljkova 11, tel. 483 07 77, www.kongresnicentar.sajam.net Sportsko-poslovni centar Vojvodina C-2, Sutjeska 2, tel. 488 23 20, www.spens.rs

Lawyers

Law Office Stanivuković C-2, Pavla Simića 2, tel. 472 04 12, www.lawoffice.rs

Office furniture

Astra, Đakona Avakuma 33, tel. 641 15 14, www. astrans.net Ivex B-3, Cara Dušana 26, tel. 46 90 25, www.ivexns. co.rs

Translators

Proverbum B-2, Hajduk Veljkova 11/IV, tel. 472 52 27, www.proverbum.com. Udruženje naučnih i stručnih prevodilaca Vojvodine C-3, Resavska 3, tel. 635 06 64

Lifestyle directory Shopping centres

Sports

Apolo Centre C-2, Trg slobode 3, tel. 52 38 88. 4Open 06:00-22:00, Closed Sun.

Archery NS 2002 D-2, Petrovaradin Fortress, Hornwerk 22, tel. 26 60 02

Bazar C-2, Bulevar Mihaila Pupina 1, tel. 52 39 87. 4Open 09:00-21:00, Sun 10:00-18:00. Mercator B-2, Bulevar oslobođenja 1024Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 08:00 - 20:00. Pariski magazin C-2, Kralja Aleksandra 12. 4Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. SPENS - Sports and Business Centre of Vojvodina C-2, Sutjeska 2, tel. 488 22 22. 4Open 06:30 - 22:00.

Spa & Beauty Salons

Dermomedica C-2, Dunavska 28, tel. 45 66 13. Fit-vibe, LPG, Hair & Skin IPL. Regina B-2, Gogoljeva 13, tel. 54 25 92. Beauty parlour, solarium, body treatments. Silver House C-2, Ise Bajića 6, tel. 528 871. Massage.

Fitness Clubs

Flex C-2, Sutjeska 2 (SPENS), tel. 488 22 43. Body building and Fitness Center. Gymnas Hotel B-3, Teodora Pavlovica 28, tel. 46 92 85. Exercise Gym, Sauna, Massage Service. Mean Machine Fitness Center B-2, Omladinskog pokreta 7-9, tel. 50 41 84. Ladies only.

Key cuts

Tresor A-3, Stevana hladnog bb. If you lock yourself out late at night call tel. (063)68 05 65.

Dry cleaners

Elegant B-3, Lasla Gala 9, tel. 661 51 15. 4Open 08:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:30 - 14:00, Closed Sun. Pop’s B -2, Mercator Shopping Centre, Bulevar oslobođenja 102, tel. 636 76 45. 4Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 08:00 - 20:00.

Launderettes

Una A-1, Rumenačka 39, 51 05 40. 4Open 09:00 18:00, Closed Sun.

Libraries

City Library C-2, Dunavska 1, tel. 45 12 33. 4Open 07:30 - 20:00, Sat 07:30 - 14:00, Closed Sun.

Swiming Pools SPENS - Sports and Business Centre of Vojvodina B-2, Sutjeska 2, tel. 488 22 95. Sports Centre Sajmište, tel. 661 58 16. 4Outdoor swiming pool. 4Open 10:00 - 18:30, Sat 09:00 - 19:00. Admission 180 dinars, children 120 dinars. Tennis SPENS - Sports and Business Centre of Vojvodina B-2, Sutjeska 2, tel. 52 13 32. 4Open 07:00 - 22:00 1 hour 350-800 dinars. Matica Srpska Library C-2, Matice srpske 1, tel. 42 01 99. 4Open 07:30 - 19:30, Sat 07:30 - 13:30, Closed Sun.

Money transfer

Western Union, tel. (011)330 03 00. Money transfers from abroad can be collected from most banks in Novi Sad, in EUR only.

Opticians

Look & Look B-3, Bulevar Cara Lazara 92, tel. 54 46 44. 4Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00, Closed Sun

Photo service

Canon M B-2, Bulevar Oslobođenja 4b, tel. 477 00 00

Shoe repair

Krle B-2, Bulevar Kralja Petra I 26, tel. 633 04 22. 4Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00, Closed Sun

Bookshops

Mamut Megastore C-2, Zmaj Jovina 15, tel. 661 41 31. 4Open 09:00 - 21:00, Closed Sun. IPS Bazar Store C-2, Bulevar Mihajla Pupina 1, tel. 423-810. 4Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 17:00.

Gifts & Souvenirs

NS Škrinja C-2, Dunavska 17 (Passage), (063)41 21 69. 4Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00, Closed Sun. Prestige C-2, Zmaj Jovina 2, tel. 57 11 31. Tradicija B-2, Jevrejska 23 (Passage Papilon), tel. (063)36 40 02. Orthodox Icons. 4Open 09:30 - 20:00, Sat 09:30 - 14:00, Closed Sun.

Markets

Futoška pijaca B-2, Jevrejska 42, tel. 661 67 42. 4Open 06:00 - 17:00, Sun 06:00 - 14:00. Riblja pijaca C-2, Trg Republike 18, tel. 52 49 27, 4Open 06:00 - 17:00, Sun 06:00 - 14:00.

www.inyourpocket.com

Novi Sad

Serbia

Index Absolut ACenter Birotel Adice Aleksandar Apolo Centre Aqua Doria Arena Arhiv Astal šaren ATP Vojvodina Bus Station Babareeba Baltazar Bazar Bela lađa Beer bar Brod Bonaca Apartments Bookstore-caffe Nublu Braća Drinić Epicentar Brankovo kolo Bunker Hill Car Royal Apartments The Cathedral Central Bus Station Chicken Tikka City Library City Museum of Novi Sad Clinical Centre of Vojvodina Club Soul Cuba-Libre Čerčil The Danube Park Downtown Duga Dva štapića Elite Fićkić Filip Fish&zeleniš Fontana Foxtrot Francuz Fruška Gora mountain Futoška pijaca Garden Giardino Greenet Gusan Gymnas Hedonist Ile de France Jadran Jang Ce Jatak Jelisavetin bastion Karađorđe Stadium Kazamat KCNS Kongresni centar Master Kuća mala Kućerak kod česme Lazin hostel Leopold I Lipa London club Mačak Martha's Pub Mediteraneo Mercator Museum of Vojvodina Novi Sad Ognjište Orhideja Osam tamburaša Panorama Pariski magazin

34 27 28 24 47 33 20 30 32 43 30 34 47 28 35 28 34 27 28 35 28 39 43 30 47 39 46 35 34 31 39 28 27 30 26 34 28 33 28 35 31 40 47 31 35 34 32 27 34 27 20 30 30 35 20 35 20 46 31 33 28 26 32 35 32 35 27 47 39 26 32 30 33 26 47

Park 26 Parobrod 33 Pasha 31 Petrovaradin Fortress 37 Planeta Inn 26 Plava frajla 33 Plaf Off 33 Pomodoro rosso 32 Poslovni centar NIS 46 Privredna komora Vojvodine 46 Prezident 26 Railway Station 43 Riblja pijaca 47 Rimski 27 Ritmo Latino 36 Route 66 36 RST Club 36 Saborna Church 39 Sajam 26 Salaš 137 24 Sečuan 30 Serbian National Theatre 20 Skipper 36 Skocko's bar 36 Sokače 33 Sports Centre Sajmište 47 Sportsko-poslovni centar Vojvodine 49 Sterija 36 St. Nicholas Church 39 Surabaya 30 Synagogue 38 Štrand beach 37 Tamara 28 Tourist organisation of Novi Sad 6 Travica 33 Trčika 34 Ujvideki Szinhaz 20 Vesela kornjača 20 Vigor 27 Vojvodina 27 Voyager 28 Vremeplov 34 Wheels 30 Youth Theatre 20 Zenit 28 Žak 34

Street register Alekse Šantića Arčibalda Rajsa Avijatičarska Balkanska Beogradska Beogradski kej Božidara Adžije Braće Popović Bulevar Cara Lazara Bulevar Despota Stefana Bulevar Kralja Petra I Bulevar Jaše Tomića Bulevar Jovana Dučića Bulevar Mihajla Pupina Bulevar Oslobođenja Bulevar Revolucije Bulevar Slobodana Jovanovića Bulevar Vojvode Stepe Cara Dušana Čajkovskog Ćirila i Metodija Danila Kiša Donji put Dr. Đ. Jovanovića

B-3 D-2 A-1 C-1 C-2 C-2 D-3 B-2 B-3 B-3 B-2 B-2 A-2 C-2 B-2 B-2 A-2 A-2 B-3 D-2 A-3 B-3 C-3 C-2

Dr. Sime Miloševića Dunavska Dunavske Divizije Đorđa Rajkovića Feješ Klare Fruškogorska Futoška Futoški put Gimnazijska Gornji put Gundulićeva Hadži Ruvimova Hajduk Veljkova Heroja Pinkija Heroja Tepića Ignjata Pavlasa Ilije Ognjanovića Ive Andrića Jevrejska Jovana Popovića Jovana Subotića Kamenički put Karađorđeva Kej Skojevaca Kej Žrtava Racije Kisačka Kočićeva Kornelija Stankovića Koste Nađa Kralja Aleksandra Krušedolska Lasla Gala Laze Telečkog Milutina Bojića Majevička Maksima Gorkog Marina Držića Marka Oreškovića Marka Miljanova Matice Srpske Mažuranićeva Miroslava Antića Miše Dimitrijevića Narodnih heroja Narodnog fronta Nikole Tesle Novosadskog sajma

C-3 C-2 D-2 C-1 A-3 C-3 B-2 A-3 C-2 C-3 C-1 A-2 B-2 A-3 B-2 C-2 C-2 B-3 B-2 A-3 C-2 C-3 B-1 C-2 C-2 B-1 D-3 A-2 D-2 C-2 D-3 B-3 C-2 C-2 B-2 C-2 D-3 D-3 C-2 C-2 D-3 C-2 B-3 C-2 B-3 B-2 B-2

Njegoševa Okrugićeva Omladinskog pokreta Palmotićeva Pančevačka Partizanska Patrijarha Čarnojevića Patrijarha Rajačića Petefi Šandora Petra Kočića Preradovićeva Put Novosadskog partizanskog odreda Put Šajkaškog odreda Puškinova Račkog Rade Končara Radnička Ravanička Rumenačka Save Kovačevića Sentandrejski put Sime Matavulja Skerlićeva S. Mitrova Ljubiše Somborska Stanoja Glavaša Stevana Musića Stražilovska Subotička Sunčani kej Sutjeska Svetozara Miletića Štrosmajerova Šumadijska Temerinska Tolstojeva Uspenska Vase Stajića Venizolosovska Vladana Desnice Vojvode Bojovića Vojvođanska Vojvođanskih brigada Vukovarska Zmaj Jovina Zmaj Ognjena Vuka

51 C-2 D-3 B-2 D-2 A-1 B-1 C-1 D-2 A-3 C-2 D-2 A-1 C-1 B-3 D-3 D-2 C-2 C-3 A-1 B-2 B-1 B-3 C-2 B-2 A-3 A-3 C-2 C-2 A-3 C-3 C-2 C-2 C-2 C-2 C-1 B-3 C-2 C-2 C-1 D-2 B-2 B-3 C-2 D-3 C-2 B-2