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I confirm that this work has gained ethical approval and that I have faithfully observed the terms of the approval in the conduct of this project. This submission is the result of my own work. All help and advice other than that received from tutors has been acknowledged and primary and secondary sources of information have been properly attributed. Should this statement prove to be untrue I recognise the right and duty of the board of examiners to recommend what action should be taken in line with the University’s regulations on assessment contained in its handbook. Sophie Richardson N0336674
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The way we wear our hair taps deep into the psyche. It is mood-changing, image-changing and in some cases even life-changing. Over many years working in the fashion and beauty industries, I have seen this alchemy develop tim e and again.
-K, Phillips: 2004: 7
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Alexandre, the renowned French hairdresser, described hairstyling as, “a desperate search for an eternal and fugitive beauty… for that which will last for only one day” (Cox: Widdows: 2005: 9). It is this intangible, fleeting quality of hair that is its greatest strength. Whatever style we choose to adopt will always disappear over time, perhaps this is why the haircut has rarely been the subject of serious study and its full cultural meaning still remains to be teased out. Regarded as a fashion accessory rather than an art form in its own right, hair still remains theoretically isolated whilst fashion is a burgeoning area of cultural studies.
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Like the clothes we wear, our haircuts say more about us than we would like to believe.
- Jones: 1990: 7
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<<<<<< >>>>>> The need to dress up, do your hair and paint your face has been prevalent in societies amongst women throughout the decades. To demonstrate or construct an individual or group identity is a basic human need. Whilst hair is the only human material that can be manipulated, shaped and distorted by the the wearer, it functions as an extension of the body, and like fashion and dress, a social object that can be seen as a fundamental part of the way bodies are made and thus give meaning and identity. Women know they won’t actually transform their lives with a dress or shampoo, but it’s a little bit of fantasy and a release; it’s fun, it’s a game, it’s being allowed to dream because it’s an escape from everyday life. After Andrew Hovell (2010: online) spent two years talking with females about their hair and how they feel about how they look, it was found that in the act of them doing their hair, make-up and dressing up there was a moment when she wasn’t an employee, a wife, girlfriend, daughter, mother or any other of the multiple roles with laden cultural expectations women perform. They were simply ‘me’, a women with all the freedom and possibility that entails. An example that shows us how fundamentally true this can be is through women in the Belsen concentration camp; when it was liberated from the Germans, someone put red lipstick in the supplies, either by mistake or through a stroke of genius. Women began to put on the lipstick. Gaunt, hollow eyed women wearing nothing but scraps of clothes and red lipstick. That inconsequential stick of scarlet paint gave them back their humanity (Hovell: 2010: online). 13
In every country throughout history, hair possesses powerful symbolic and evocative properties; an object of traditions and beliefs, a sign with hierarchical, religious or mystical significance.
-L’Oreal: 2012: online
Long hair is capable of making the head erotic, a provocative body part of such unrestrained sexuality that in some cultures it has to be kept quite literally under wraps. The Jewish sheitl wig, for instance, is worn to shield the potentially carnal hair from the gaze of a man that isn’t the wearer’s husband, thus protecting the fabric of Jewish society as decreed in the Talmud. In the nineteenth century the only European man permitted to see a woman with her hair unleashed in its natural state was her husband. This fused an intense relationship between hair and intimacy that reoccurs in Indian culture, where the untying of the knot of hair is an action immediately taken before releasing the knot that secures the sari (Cox: Widdows: 2005: 17).
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Ever since Tony Curtis and Elvis Presley tossed their locks in sullen defiance, hair has come to signify rebellion, and the confrontational haircut has been one of the effective tools of teenage insurrection.
- Jones: 1990: 7
There are many different influential concepts around the role of hair in human society; a hairstyle maybe an indication of group membership, for example in the 1920s a number of women known as the ‘Flappers’ cut their hair short to rebel against the traditional roles for women. The bob, also known as the ‘Eton crop’, was more than a haircut; it suggested real cultural change in the way that women thought about themselves and their place in society. It became a new look for thousands of women eager to escape the conformity of the Edwardian years. Louise Brooks’ black shiny bob, as seen in her role as prostitute Lulu in the film ‘Pandora’s Box’ (1928), defined the look of a generation.The bobbed cut then began to complement the clothes of designers such as Coco Chanel, Elsa Schiaparelli and Madeleine Vionnet. The new neat chic look, with its androgynous low-waisted and flattened shape, was part of the modernist revolution of clean lines.
Though particular haircuts have always affected the mainstream, it is in the area of youth culture that their significance is most obvious.
- Jones: 1990: 8
Stemming from the teenage need to be individual, to look different from the preceding generation and to show disquiet over adult rule. From these small gestures of independence whole fashion can grow, some of the most influential looks have been inspired by the street. Inspired by the black American ‘conk’ the Teddy Boy was formed contorting their hair into a greased quiff using Brylcreem and a comb, drape suit and a pair of knuckle-dusters adorned the streets of London’s East End as a living embodiment of teenage cool. They may have had no real power over their education, jobs or prospects but Teds were in control of their appearance and could therefore stand out from the crowd. Sixty years later and todays consumers are rejecting mass market and craving individuality; with youth culture tribes in London setting the trends on the street that spread throughout the country (WGSN: 2013: Online).
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In this ever-changing society, the most powerful and enduring brands are built from the heart. They are real and sustainable. Their foundations are stronger because they are built with the strength of the human spirit, not an ad campaign. The companies that are lasting are those that are authentic. -Schultz: 1998
This obvious ambition of big brands wanting to dominate our mental lives and the constant manipulation of attempting to entice, shame or fool us into some kind of action, increasingly seems to unnerve people. According to Boyle (2013: online) partly the distaste for these corporate creations is because they seem unable to experience any other emotions than greed or fear. He points out that the branding think-tank known as the ‘Medinge Group’ has recognised the basic problem that brands must become “more human and more humane” or they will fail. Humanity is indeed the essence of authenticity, and this is why the big brands have such difficulty meeting this demand. They are one-dimensional non-human approximations. When you interact with most big brands, you do so with a computer programme, not an individual person. Due to these generic messages that consumers are faced to interact with aren’t human, it undermines trust and takes away the personal connection of the brand to the consumer. So as conventional branding loses its edge because it seems de-humanised, the twenty-first century consumer, exhausted by a culture without roots, longs for a ‘community’; a collection of like-minded humans. ‘Love The Style’ (LTS) hair styling tool is a hair straightener currently positioned within the ‘Heated Hair Appliance’ market and being sold on its own website, eBay and Amazon. This report will rebrand ‘Love The Style’ and reposition the hair styling tool within the market based on current consumer trends and lifestyle behaviour. Taking a new direction by taking into consideration the twenty-first century consumer and the longing for a brand that offers a ‘community’.
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By acting as creativity enablers, brands are learning to inspire the new consumer-creator. Yet the goal is not instant profitability, but the chance to create a deeper, more meaningful conversation with the consumer. -Stylus: 2012
Lethal Tasting Sherbet (LTS) offers more than an excellent quality hair styling tool, it is an opposition to mainstream culture, an expression of individuality and stands for cultural changes that reject currently powerful institutions.
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Fig. 1. Colour palette. This was created using sherbet dust. 25
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LTS #TastesLikeChaos provides an online community for like-minded people to express themselves through their individual style and gives them a voice via social media platforms such as Facebook and Twitter by utilising the hashtag #TastesLikeChaos; where topics of interest can be discussed such as unconventional beauty, hairstyling tips, music etc. and where videos and pictures can be uploaded.
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A new series of â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;WGSN Youth Designâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; reports key themes including a nod to the 1990s, vintage rock looks and global cultural mash-ups (Preston: Gallagher: 2013: online). The similarities between the Riot Grrl DIY zine culture of the 90s and the rising trend for picture blogging are also key, with the proliferation of Tumblr blogs providing instant visuals and creative expression. With this in mind, edgy tough looking powder pastels have been used for the colour palette throughout the designs, such as the logo and packaging, and a #TastesLikeChaos Tumblr has been created as a place for individuals to get visual inspiration; this gives Lethal Tasting Sherbet a strong visual identity.
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Aakerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Brand Identity Model
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The market for electrical hair appliances was affected in 2009 by the onset of the recession but the effects were short-term. Women continued to make their personal appearance and grooming a priority and continued to buy new appliances, despite the economic uncertainty. Despite trends towards curly styles, hair straighteners have held their own and seem to have cemented their place in the grooming routine of Brits. - Strutton: 2011: online
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In order to succesfully position the LTS hair styler into its competitive market of ‘Heated Hair Appliances’, extensive research has had to be carried out to help contextualise the industry. Interestingly ‘recession proof’ sales of cosmetics grew by 40% from 2005 to 2010 as women took priority over making their hair look good. It was the hairdressing industry that took the hit in the economic downturn as women using hairdressers fell from 84% to 81% in 2010. There is an upward trend in women looking after their own hair at home which seems to be driven by the desire to make savings. With a market value of £100 million in 2010, up from £85 million in 2009, hair straighteners are a hot product and steaming ahead in the hair appliance sector. As the market grows they are accounting for 56% of that market, hair straighteners dominate the overall £194 million retail market for electrical haircare appliances and Mintel (2011: online) expects cosumer spending to grow by almost 18% over 2010 to 2015 to reach £228 million.
Latest research from Mintel (2011) reveals that today, a quarter (27%) of women can’t live without their hair straighteners; rising to 40% of under 25 year olds. The numberof consumers owning straighteners rose from 4.6 million in 2007 (35%) to 5.3 million (46%) in 2010, a jump of 15% as more women adopted straighteners as an essential part of their regular hair regime. Today, a third of women claim to own a pair, with 5% purchasing a new pair over the past year.
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THE PRODUCT The original product and packaging before the LTS hair styler has been re-branded and re-positioned within the â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Heated Hair Aplianceâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; market sector.
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ORIGINAL PHILOSOPHY “To offer the consumer top quality salon professional hair straighteners with the very latest and best technology built into the LT’S. Intensive research and development has created LT’S straighteners and we are determined to offer exceptional quality at a more affordable price than other top hair straighteners and therefore delivering to you the best possible value for money.”
PRODUCT FEATURES/ATTRIBUTES Advanced ceramic coated plates. Tourmaline infused. Ion technology. PTFC ceramic heaters. LED heater light. Temperature control up to 240 degrees. Safety sleep mode. No tangle 360 degrees swivel cord.
PRODUCT BENEFITS Provides the silky smooth, healthy finish you want for your hair. Set the perfect temperature to avoid heat damage. The ceramic plates provide even heat which means no hair pull or drag. The curved outter shell design allows hair to be styled with curls, waves or flicks. The new Ion technology keeps hair in style for longer. The PTFC heaters allows the plates to heat up in seconds, which saves time and energy and is better for the environment. Provides a ‘stay-safe’ sleep mode which gives peace of mind and saves energy.
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COMPETITORS
Mintel (2011: online) reports that the leading hair straightener brands are; GHD, Babyliss, Toni&Guy and Vidal Sassoon, Tresemme, Nicky Clarke and Remington. GHD leads the heated hair appliance market by a considerable amount after having some revolutionary features in 2001 that made the work of straightening hair less strenuous with amazing results. Previous to GHD there were hair straighteners that used basic aluminium plates and others used steam in the straightening process which was less effective than the ceramic coated plates introduced by GHD. LTS hair styler uses ceramic coating technology, which is the most effective material for hair straighteners because it conducts heat evenly without hot and cold spots along the plates which allows the iron to smoothly slide through the hair at the ideal temperature without causing hair drag or heat damage. To gain further insight into the â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Heater Hair Applianceâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; market, research was carried out in four major stores including John Lewis, TK Maxx, Boots and Superdrug, to find out which brands are being sold within the stores, to look at how the appliances are merchandised and how they compete with each other in packaging design that stands out from one another (appendix Fig. 6). This research enabled the LTS hair styler to be most effectively and successfully positioned within the market, taking into consideration the quality and pricing of its competitors.
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Fig. 2. Perceptual Map
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The findings of our most recent survey with YouGov reveal a 21st Century Woman who won’t be beaten by the economic challenges we all face. She is financially sound, thanks to a new pragmatic approach to her spending. Like her role model, Kate Middleton, she’s relaxed about mixing designer treats with her quick fix high street pleasures. She’s a smarter, more informed consumer than ever before and, for the brands that work hard to engage her, this is great news. -YouGov: 2012: online
The 21st Century Woman 2012 Report highlights a more grown-up approach to spending among young British females, as their attitude and behaviour towards money has changed significantly over the past two years through difficult economic times. In Glamour’s third survey of magazine-reading women aged 16 to 40, it found “a generation transformed” from the earlier study in 2010, with 74% of women saying they worry about their future finances versus only 46% two years earlier, and 82% are now financially independent; even though many are still spending and get a kick out of buying fashion and beauty products (WGSN 2012: online). The 2012 survey found a more consciously aware who thinks before she buys; this consumer, accounting for 69% of UK women, is influenced by recommendations as she researches and looks for better value in purchases, LTS encourages customers to give in depth feedback on the product once tried and tested and the brand has received several video recommendations of satisfied customers; the report also states that 71% of women admire brands that are different which has been an important factor with ‘Lethal Tasting Sherbet’ offering a hair straightener brand like no other in the market sector. Overall, the 21st century females consumer has become less of an impulsive buyer and Mintel (2008: online) reports that within the ‘Electrical Haircare Appliance’ sector 81% of women shop around for the best price.
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Fig. 3. Facebook Infographic
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TARGET DEMOGRAPHIC Mintel (2011: online) segments the Electrical Haircare Appliance sector into four main consumer types;
Lethal Tasting Sherbet will target the ‘Hair-mad’ and ‘TLC-styler’ consumers equating to 56% of the overall market. The consumer is one that makes informed decisions based on their lifestyle and their means. The consumers thought process (Fig. 5.) shows that customers often follow the following path, they consider, evaluate, buy, enjoy/advocate/bond. Questionnaires were conducted with 12 responses to gain insight into the target demographic (appendix Fig. 7), this determined that the target demographic for LTS is energetic, extreme and creative women aged 18 to 25 driven by youth subcultures that comprise an edgy, fast-changing and dynamic melting pot of style.
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Fig. 5. Consumer Touchpoints
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Creativity is a commodity. It is no longer the monopoly of creative professionals: consumer creativity is reality. Driving this creativity economy is the ‘Consumer-Creator’, enabled by technology and powered by social media. - Stylus: 2012: online
Engaging a market is no longer simply about putting out products in a one-way fashion. Marketing is about participation and storytelling with a ‘mob’ of consumers, according to Coca-Cola’s Joseph Tripodi, speaking at a keynotespeech at Cannes Lions 2012. “We have to provide a narrative that people want to be a part of. These are experiences that are had by a few but are sufficiently compelling enough to be shared by the many. It’s forcing our hand to create more inspired work.” (Stylus: 2012: online).
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Content marketing and engagement techniques all seek to drive further growth in earned social media. This is the sharing of branded content, or discussion of brands, in real time on social media networks, as opposed to paid-for media such as advertisements. The growing importance of this, and the fact that it does not follow the schedule of fixed advertising campaigns, is leading many to question whether fixed campaigns have become too rigid for today’s consumer. - Stylus: 2012: online
This suggests that consumer creativity can leave a lasting mark. Engaging with an online global community of consumers can generate fresh creative ideas, unlock innovation opportunities and drive consumer engagement. As previously stated, Black Milk Clothing has executed this successfully, and taking that into consideration, through utilising the hashtag ‘#TastesLikeChaos’, through Facebook and Twitter and will be identifiable across all digital platforms; Lethal Tasting Sherbet will drive to engage with young females online. Twitter will act as a tool for interacting more personally with individuals and for the brand to feel directly accessible to customers; it will also act as a promotional tool and will allow the hashtag ‘#TastesLikeChaos’ to be utilised by the consumers; Facebook will become the hub of the community where these individuals can interact with one another and the brand, discuss topics on hair, hairstyles etc. and upload tutorial videos or pictures of themselves and their individual style.
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TUMBLR
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WEBSITE
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The website allows the customer to find out the brands story, by clicking on different tabs on the website different platforms of the brand can be accessed; the social TV show, the hair straightener, the merchandise, the Facebook Page, Twitter page and Tumblr.
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DEVELOPED PACKAGING DESIGN
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More than 80% of smartphone and tablet owners use these devices while watching TV, reports Mashable, while 25% of them do so multiple times per day. Entertainment and advertising lines will blur and shopping will flow alongside content.
- Stylus: 2013: online
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In 2012, 42% of TV viewers are simultaneously watching related content on their computers. - Stylus, 2012: online.
SOCIAL TV SHOW
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‘Second screens’ and televisions are becoming more and more intertwined. Co-viewing applications will further connect tablets, laptops and mobile phones with the TV screen, allowing viewers to participate in social media discussion and access more detailed show information while they are watching the show. With this being said, it is proposed that Lethal Tasting Sherbet utilises and embraces this trend by creating a “#TastesLikeTV” social show which will bypass all traditional routes of commissioning and production, and go straight to the internet to create its own home. Following in the footsteps of The Fox Problem; the first entertainment chat show production that optimised the advanced technology of a Google Plus Hangout; which streamed live on YouTube, and embedded across Google+, Facebook and Twitter using the hashtag ‘#TastesLikeTV’. Using a Google Hangout to deliver “Taste’s Like TV” offers a far more exciting viewer experience. It can display multiple video feeds simultaneously, from anywhere in the world, which can be delivered live to YouTube in real time. Doing an online show isn’t new, but delivering a live online show, with live feeds coming in from all over the world, to one YouTube window, at minimal costs, is new.
SHOW CONTENT
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Broadcasting the show live through Google Hangout provides creative freedom for the brand by allowing it to create its own show content and deliver it without having to get anything signed off by the commissioners. As for funding, the Hangout provides an opportunity to work with brands on a platform where data capturing is key to the production process, and where 18-25’s can find content tailored directly to their needs. To boost product sales the show will provide shoppable content where links and banners will be featured around the video window for the watchers to be able to click-through to sponsored hair and beauty product websites allowing them to shop online during the show. This fits in with the growing trend for ‘shoppable video’, something the industry has been steadily trialling, as demonstrated with the Topshop Spring/Summer 2013 (appendix Fig. 8.) show integrating shopping with live-streamed events; Chief Marketing Officer Justin Cooke said,
It’s social, it’s commerce and it’s entertainment all rolled into one. Three unique girls will host the show representing LTS; Sapphire, Laura Chatterton and Zara Martin (opposite page). The proposed location will be at Bleach London as Sapphire works as one of the hair stylists there and it will be the perfect place to be able to show live hair colouring and styling tutorials through the weekly shows. A topic of discussion will be picked each week and viewers will be able to tweet the show using the hashtag #TastesLikeTV, certain tweets will be read out by the hosts, viewers can influence which hair colouring/styling is featured each week and other viewers will be able to be featured live within the show via webcams. Through ‘#TastesLikeTV’, Lethal Tasting Sherbet will reach its target audience in a new and different way, the show will get press attention as it will have a certain status to it regarding the presenters and the cult-like following of ‘Bleach London’ will also be directed to the show due to its location.
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SPOTIFY Kevin Kleinmann (Stylus: 2012: online), adviser to the classical board at Universal Music, notes that traditional logos were created for print but now that digital dominates, brand identities have to be multifarious and fluid. Marketing’s traditional four P’s (product, place, price and promotion) have been replaced by the four E’s; emotion, experience, exclusivity and engagement, he says, and sound is an ideal carrier for these. Music is a key tool for connecting with consumers. Its drives emotion, attitude, feelings and energy; it has the potential to shape a brand’s identity but it needs a comprehensive strategy tied to consistency, flexibility and distinctiveness.
Empowered by technology and the digital world, everyone now has the potential to express themselves in new, creative ways. The marketing world is leveraging this phenomenon with some success. Brand’s are using consumer’ urge to create in order to build closer relationships with them, entertain them and source ideas. The consumer demands this new, richer level of engagement. - Stylus: 2012: online
A recent partnership between UK TV network Channel 4 and music website Spotify, which has recently become a social platform in itself, will allow viewers to find and share music from their favourite shows while they watch. With this said, Lethal Tasting Sherbet’s Social TV show ‘#TastesLikeTV’ will also extend to a Spotify platform called ‘#TastesLikeNoise’ which will allow viewers to create personal playlists prior to each weekly show, using the hashtag ‘#TastesLikeNoise’, which will submit their playlist and enable it to be shared. Each week a winner will be announced and their personalised playlist will be broadcasted alongside the show. This will offer consumers a richer more personal experience with ‘#TastesLikeTV’ and ultimately the brand, turning communication into co-creation. Displayed on the opposite page is the Lethal Tasting Sherbet Spotify account; collaborating with DJCharlieScruff, a Leeds based DJ, to create four alternative playlists for the LTS customer to listen to and share via Facebook.
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PHOTOSHOOT A DIY photoshoot took place to produce polaroids of two girls; Heffy Wheeler and Elizabeth Gracie. The purpose of this photoshoot is for visual engagement with the target customer across Instagram, Facebook and Twitter. The polaroids also portray the brand visually for the marketing campaign ‘#TastesLikeChaos’ and strengthen the brand identity with the encouragement toward young females to take pictures of themselves and their hair styles and post them to Instagram, Facebook or Twitter using the hashtag ‘#TastesLikeChaos’; from this Lethal Tasting Sherbet will pick a ‘Hair Of The Day’ picture that is submitted and re-post it across all three social platforms.
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MERCHANDISE Using different designs such as the Logo and the skull motif, merchandise such as; Beanies, badges and pocket mirrors have been created. The badges and pocket mirrors will be added as additional gifts at the point of purchase alongside a tailored postcard to the customer. It is proposed that the beanie hats will be available for purchase through the Lethal Tasting Sherbet website, via an app on the Facebook page. Beanie Hats
Pocket Mirrors
Badges
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Overall, throughout Lethal Tasting Sherbet a high focus is placed on individuality, creativity and fun. Implementing innovative digital campaigns allows longevity to be worked on an overarching concept ‘#TastesLikeChaos’, which can be produced succesfully across broadcast, audio and visual. User generated content has been an important factor throughout the communication strategy after research concluded that people like to feel involved with a brand and that brands aren’t just the ones dictating their story, with the use of social media it will enable consumers to dictate the LTS story to each other, and truly be involved in an online community that can be trusted. The campaigns, ‘#TastesLikeChaos’, ‘#TastesLikeNoise’ and ‘#TastesLikeTV’ will effectively engage the consumer to the Lethal Tasting Sherbet brand and products adding entertainment to online shopping with content blurring alongside it.
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FUTURE RECOMMENDATIONS
Creativity has been democratised. A once highly visable creative elite has been submerged by a wealth of amateur writers, photographers, filmmakers and artists, who can share their work digitally and have it validated by a vast audience. This is having a dramatic impact on marketing. Today, brands can collaborate with these creative consumers, turning communication into co-creation. - Stylus 2012: Online
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The Consumer-Creator has a peer-to-peer mindset with a conviction that each of us has something unique to contribute. This consumer has arisen from a dramatic change in the way in which consumers interact with brands, fuelled by the internet, social media and technical developments. With this said, and refering to the SWOT Analysis (appendixâ&#x20AC;Ś) Lethal Tasting Sherbet has the opportunity to allow consumers to customise and design the outer shell of their hair straightening tool changing the colour and/or pattern allowing for further co-creation and individuality.
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Fig. 1. Aims and Objectives
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Fig. 2. Online Survey
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Fig. 3. What Does Your Hair Mean To You?
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Fig. 4. SWOT Anlaysis
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Fig. 5. PESTLE Analysis
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Fig. 6. Competitors Research
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Fig. 7. Consumer Questionnaires
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Fig 8. Case Study: Topshop Social Media Campaign
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Fig. 9. Interview with Blogger Jessica Sarah Martin
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Fig. 10. Interview with Adison Rudall
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Fig. 11. Logo Design Developments
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Fig. 12. Packaging Design Development
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