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A dark rum Mai Tai and Darkiri at Barkeep Supply

Join the Dark Side

Rethinking rum as a standalone spirit and engine for cocktails

BY GREG HORTON PHOTO BY LEXI HOEBING

I think it’s a dated thing – like very “ 2018 – to say, ‘I’m a whiskey guy,’” said Will Groves, sales manager at Allegheny Distilling Company. “Customers are more open-minded now, and we’re seeing increases in every market where you find Maggie’s Farm.”

Maggie’s Farm is one of a handful of brands that is forcing consumers and critics to rethink their idea of rum. Rather than a cheap distillate propped up with artificial flavors, sugar and caramel coloring, rum is a serious spirit, at least at Allegheny in Pittsburgh.

“Rum is immediately delicious in ways similar to whiskey,” Groves said. “Sweetness up front, warmth, depth of flavor, all the things that make whiskey popular – but rum comes in at a lower price point for the serious bottles.”

Rum as a broad category lacks industry standards, though. Legally, rum must only be the distillate of sugar cane juice or syrup, or a sugar cane byproduct, such as molasses. In the U.S. that is the only real regulation, except that the product must be bottled at 40 percent ABV or above. That’s it. This has led to a glut of inferior rums on shelves and backbars – and to the extent that rum lacks regulation, dark rum is even worse.

“There is no legal definition of dark rum,” Groves said. “All that’s required are the same regulations for rum in general, and then there are a multitude of ways to make it dark: caramel coloring, Pedro Ximenez sherry, raisins – so many ways.”

Allegheny founder and distiller Tim Russell makes the Maggie’s Farm 50/50 Dark Rum with his own cane distillate and combines it with a Caribbean molasses-based, extra aged dark rum. The product is put into barrels for an additional six to nine months to allow the flavors to marry. The result is a spirit that is as sippable as good bourbon.

Part of the growth of dark rum has to be chalked up to the increasingly ludicrous prices in the secondary whiskey market, as well as the diminishing availability of popular brands caused by those secondary market economics: a buy for $50 and sell for $300 kind of thing. People are looking for substitutes. Bars around the city are seeing requests for dark rum go up, and they are meeting the demand with some of the best brands in rum: Maggie’s Farm, Hamilton, Hampden, Privateer, Black Tot, Mocambo and The Real McCoy.

The rums listed above come from distillers who are interested in crafting excellent spirits even without regulation. “We do everything the hard way to get the best liquid possible,” Groves said. It shows in everything Allegheny produces, including its spiced rum and falernum, both of which are two of the best in the world, if not the best.

“There are thought leaders in the industry trying to make changes to the perception of rum,” Groves said. “Maggie Campbell at Privateer is probably the thought leader, but Luca Gargano has contributed with his rum classifications, and Richard Seale’s work is excellent, too.”

When putting together representative cocktails to showcase these dark rums, we relied on the city’s best bartenders – and one former bartender – to guide us. One thing we all discovered quickly was the lack of classic and tiki cocktail recipes that call for dark rum. James Corley, a former bartender, asked, “Did you just try substituting dark rum for other rums?” A simple question that yielded amazing results, including the “darkiri,” as he insists on calling a classic daiquiri with dark rum.

Dining Guide

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DESIGNATION

$ MOST ENTREES UNDER $10 $$ MOST ENTREES $10 TO $25 $$$ MOST ENTREES OVER $25

BEST OF THE 405 WINNER

SPONSORED LISTING

BREAKFAST/BRUNCH

CAFÉ ANTIGUA Authentic Guatemalan

food in OKC, with traditional dishes like motuleños, machaca, and refried black beans. Full coffee service is available, and you’ll want extra green sauce. 1903 N. Classen Blvd., OKC, 602.8984 $$

CATTLEMEN’S Almost as old as

the state itself, this Oklahoma institution’s immense corn-fed steaks and matchless

atmosphere are history served anew every day. 1309 S Agnew, OKC, 236.0416 $$

CHEEVER’S Southwestern-influenced recipes (the chicken-fried steak is a house specialty) and love of seafood drive the contemporary comfort food in one of the city’s finest dining destinations for lunch, dinner and brunch. 2409 N Hudson, OKC, 525.7007 $$ LUNCH

CLARK CREW BBQ Travis Clark reached the pinnacle of pit master-dom when he won Jack Daniel’s competition, and he’s brought the delicious brisket, burnt ends, championship beans and the best cornbread ever to OKC. 3510 NW Expy, OKC, 724.8888 $$

EMPIRE SLICE HOUSE This was

the city’s first by-the-slice pizzeria, but you can also get full pies, giant meatballs, fresh salads, and a great selection of cocktails and local beer. The full menu is also available late

night inside or on the excellent patio. 1804 NW 16th, OKC, 557.1760 $

FLORENCE’S For more than 60 years, this eastside eatery has been serving crispy fried chicken, hearty meatloaf, tangy greens, and all the country cooking associated with soul food. Don’t leave without trying the pear pie. 1437 NE 23rd, OKC, 427.3663 $$

OOZIE MEDITERRANEAN

RESTAURANT Traditional Lebanese food

served in an unconventional setting – a medical building – but the hashwa, cabbage rolls, stuffed eggplant, shwarma and specials will make you forget the surroundings. Rustic and delicious family restaurant that’s a true hidden gem. 1211 N Shartel, Ste 102, OKC, 724.7659 $$

THE HUTCH ON AVONDALE Chef

David Henry serves modern American cuisine with a creative twist a well as classic

brunch fare, and the bar offers a full suite of tempting cocktails, wines and spirits. 6437 Avondale, OKC, 842.1000 $$

NEIGHBORHOOD JAM Serving tasty takes on classic American dishes and more specialized options, this breakfast-centric spot aims to become a community favorite. 15124 Lleytons Court, Edmond, 242.4161 $$

STITCH CAFÉ The hand pies got the business started, and they are still delicious, but the breakfast tacos, burritos and tots are among the best options in the city. 835 W Sheridan, OKC, 212.2346 $$ PIZZERIA GUSTO Neapolitan-style pizza (which uses an extremely hot fire to quickly cook superfine flour crusts) stars alongside Italy-inspired entrees, pastas and appetizers. 2415 N Walker, OKC, 437.4992 $$

QUEEN OF EGGROLLS Chef KC Chansombat specializes in traditional Laotian food, and while her egg rolls are the reason many discover her, the larb, nam khao and capoon are what eventually keeps them coming back. 2815a NW 10th, OKC, 769.2417 $$

SHEESH MAHAL While billed as a

combination of Pakistani and Indian cuisine, the menu will be familiar to fans of Indian

food, with butter chicken, delicious curries, basmati rice, and fresh naan. You won’t find Find biscuits, jam and other breakfast favorites from Neighborhood Jam and more 405 hotspots in the Dining Guide

a buffet in the building, but you get complementary tea with every meal. 4621 N. May, OKC, 778.8469 $$

SWADLEY’S BAR-B-Q

Family-owned and operated with a deep commitment to OKC, Swadley’s serves up traditional barbecue, sandwiches and desserts for groups of all sizes. Multiple locations throughout the metro. 2233 W Memorial, OKC, 286.3838 $$

DINNER

BOULEVARD STEAKHOUSE Perfect-

ly soigné ambiance down to the last detail and cuisine easily in the metro’s elite – a sumptuous, if pricy, masterpiece. 505 S Boulevard, Edmond, 715.2333 $$$$

FRIDA SOUTHWEST This stunning Southwestern-cuisine restaurant in Paseo is

now one of the city’s must try destinations. Everything from the short rib empanadas to the Mexican hot chocolate cheesecake is perfection. 500 Paseo, OKC, 683.7432 $$$

GORO RAMEN + IZAKAYA An “izakaya” is a Japanese pub, and this energetic Paseo District spot nails the mixture of great food, sake and cocktails that make a pub a destination. 3000 Paseo, OKC, 900.6615 $$ THE HAMILTON Tucked into Northpark Mall, this Okie-centric supper club features upscale casual dining with regional favorites like bison tartare, quail, and steaks, as well as an excellent wine list and creative cocktails. 12232 N. May, OKC, 849.5115 $$$

MAHOGANY PRIME STEAKHOUSE

The ambiance and service are sublime, but fine aged steak broiled to perfection is the star. 3241 W Memorial, OKC, 748.5959; 100 W Main, OKC, 208.8800 $$$$

NED’S STARLITE LOUNGE

A funky dive into supper club glory, Ned’s serves up the best onion rings n the city, pasta, fish, and chicken fried steak with equal skill. An absolute treat with a solid bar. 7301 N May, OKC, 242.6100 $$

PATRONO Not only is Chef Jonathan Krell’s food some of the best in OKC, the service at Patrono is professional, friendly and seamless. Krell is as adept at seafood as pasta and chops, so it’s impossible to go wrong with this spectacular menu. 305 N Walker, OKC, 702.7660 $$$

SCRATCH PASEO Delicious, scratch food from one of the city’s best young chefs combined with an excellent bar and quirky-cool wine list. It’s mostly modern American, but surprises abound. 605 NW 28th, OKC, 602.2302 $$