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THE DISH

THE DISH

Lalo Gonzalez

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Honor the Agave

Two new tequila brands have arrived in Oklahoma, ofering stellar expressions of agave

BY GREG HORTON

EDUARDO “LALO” GONZALEZ IS THE GRANDSON OF

Julio Gonzalez Estrada, better known to tequila lovers as Don Julio. His grandfather pioneered premium tequila, and his father — the first Lalo — continued that tradition. Now a third-generation tequila producer, Lalo thanks his grandfather for the inspiration to continue, and the Lalo on the label of his tequila is for his father, not himself.

“I drew inspiration from grandfather, but you never know you’re passionate about something until you’re doing it,” Lalo said.

Lalo and his friend David Rodriguez Carballido made a small-batch tequila for a family event in Guadalajara, Jalisco. The two focused on the blanco style because, as Lalo put it, they want to honor the agave. It’s the company philosophy today, too.

“This agave takes six or seven years to mature for harvest, and then producers throw additives and flavors at it rather than pursuing a true expression of agave,” Gonzalez said.

Producers are allowed to add flavors and other non-agave additives to tequila as long as the total doesn’t exceed one percent of the liquid in the bottle. Many tequila producers, including premium producers, will add vanilla or sweeteners to their mix, presumably to appeal to consumers more used to shooting than sipping.

In 2017, Gonzalez and Carbadillo met Jim McDermott — now a partner — at a wedding. McDermott assured them that their tequila was special and said he could help with distribution in the U.S. The team chose an unusual path, though: They would only make blanco tequila.

“People think you have to do every style — blanco, reposado, añejo — but I tell them to look at what Tito’s has done making one kind of vodka,” Lalo said. “You can focus on one thing and do it well.”

And Lalo Tequila is done very well. The blue agave comes through on the palate, and the finish is clean. The price point, about $40, makes it a steal among premium tequilas.

Also arriving in Oklahoma this year is Tequila Cabal, a partnership of Dustin Schweitzer and Everardo Gonzalez. (Schweitzer’s wife Samantha is a Yukon native.) The tequila is produced in Amatitan, Jalisco, and like Lalo, it’s designed to showcase the blue agave, but it does so in four distinct expressions: blanco, reposado, añejo and extra añejo.

Cabal is easy to spot on a shelf thanks to the beautiful horse-head bottle, a nod to the caballeros who are the inspiration for the name. It’s no gimmick, because inside the bottle is one of the best tequilas available anywhere: agave-forward, rich, clean and very approachable. For creative cocktails built around both of these brands, head for Palo Santo at 1203 SW 2nd St. in OKC, where tequila’s biggest fan, Bailey Butler, can craft you a delicious, imaginative cocktail that shows off the tequila’s nuances and flavor profile.

Supreme Sweet Treats Around OKC

10 dessert destinations you should try now

BY GREG HORTON | PHOTO BY LEXI HOEBING

Mexican hot chocolate cheesecake at Frida Southwest

THERE IS NEVER A BAD TIME FOR DESSERT.

Sure, for some people it’s “not my thing,” but even the most steadfast holdout will cave occasionally. For them and the rest of us, we wanted to feature restaurants that do dessert very well. Since so many good local restaurants use seasonal menus, it’s hard to recommend a specific dessert at several local favorites, but we can say — based on their history — that these are 10 Dessert Destinations You Should Try Now.

Florence’s Restaurant, 1437 NE 23rd St., OKC No matter how many times we say “get the pear pie,” it’s not enough. Go get the pear pie … with ice cream, of course.

Frida Southwest, 500 Paseo, OKC An absolute gem in the city, Frida boasts what may be the best dessert menu in OKC, thanks largely to the work of Chef Rachel Porter. The Mexican hot chocolate cheesecake is a fixture, so start there.

The Hamilton, 12232 N. May Ave., OKC Chef Stephanie Miller is another one of those chefs who can seemingly do everything from appetizers to desserts, and if you’ve never had the fresh-baked cookies or one of her cobblers, fix that immediately.

La Baguette Bistro, 7408 N. May Ave., OKC With enough options from its bakery to fill this page, La Baguette has been a dessert destination for decades. From tarts to chocolates and cakes to mousses, there is no bad choice at this French bistro.

The Metro Wine Bar & Bistro, 6418 N. Western Ave., OKC Honestly, the “subtitle” to this Western Avenue institution could be “Where Bread Pudding is an Art Form.” But so is the lemon tart and everything else that comes out of LaVeryl Lower’s kitchen.

Milo, 6201 N. Western Ave., OKC If it were possible, the pear fried pie with goat cheese crema should be a year-round dish, but it’s not, so just trust that Chef Josh Valentine knows what he’s doing.

Patrono, 305 N. Walker Ave., OKC Behold: an Italian joint that really nails dessert. Chef Ashley Gonzalez is as adept at desserts as she is the grill, so if you have a chance to try one of her budinos or limoncello cheesecakes, don’t say no.

Scratch – Norman 132 W. Main St., Norman Chef Luke Fry has been busy all year making his presence felt on Main Street in Norman. He tends to improve every restaurant he works in and every part of the menu. Stop in and see what he’s working on, but also know the key lime pie is always excellent.

Signature Grill, 1317 E. Danforth Rd., Edmond Chef Clay Falkner has never received all the attention he deserves, which is unfortunate. This Edmond spot has stellar food across the board, including the dessert menu, which always has a creme brulee option.

Vast, 333 W. Sheridan Ave., OKC As noted in Good Taste this issue (pg. 50), Chef Paul Langer’s kitchen produces excellent food, and when your job is to be one of the city’s destination restaurants, that means crafting beautiful desserts, too. We hope the chocolate fauvet never goes away, but there is always something else delicious to capture your attention. compound medications at affordable prices

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