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Coffee and culture: The changing trends, the practice of chewing berries
It is a common occurrence during Kukyala/Okwanjula (traditional wedding ceremonies) in Buganda for the guests to be welcomed with a small basket of fried coffee berries wrapped in triangular banana fibres.
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his has been part of the Ganda culture for centuries, and over time, has spread to other places such as Busoga.
"This practice is known as okutaomukago (having a covenant) of everlasting relationships between the family of the suitor and the bride. The symbolic chewing of the berries is washed down with Olwendo (water) Mwenge Muganda (local beer) and the conversation ranges from politics to social and economic issues.
This is crowned by ululations or murmurs to the effect of "Karibu" (you are welcome) or "Tusanyuseokubalaba" (glad to see you," chorus. The Senga (aunt) hastens to announce the presence of important visitors in the house who want to become part of the family. The response from the entourage is "Tunabalabaensanyuka" "(we will prove your happiness soon.
The dress code for the big day is always Kanzu (tunics) for the men and gomasi (frocks) for the ladies. As the guests settle in the seats or mats, a Kibo (basket) of fried and salted coffee berries is served by a pretty lady who submissively goes down on bended knees.
The chewing of the berries is believed to have multiple benefits, with the first being a libido booster capable of energizing even the most docile person. Dull consumers are known to instantly get chatty and witty. But as the intricately woven kibo keeps rotation among the guests, during the Kukyala/ Kwanjula, the banter gets louder. Many are humorous, brainy and romantic.
However, in Buganda the chewing of the berries is known as Okulaga Omwoyogwa Seruganda (the commencement of new bondage).
Old habits die hard, goes the old adage. However, even as most cultures are being eroded by Western lifestyles that are glamorized by the media, the conservative Baganda still honour theirs.
"It serves as the ice breaker before gifts, promises of sweet nothings and bargaining commence," notes the CEO of Semagullu Museum in Mutundwe, John Sempebwa. "The climax is often wining, feasting and dancing; as the side of the groom's entourage is tipped that there
are still some other pretty girls in the home who are marriage material."
In his writings, explorer Speke Hannington in 1862 reported having received presents of coffee beans to be chewed as a visitor connected to sacred places and ceremonies. In Sesse Islands are trees that are more than a century old. Besides that, history has it that a coffee consignment was a pioneer cargo on the Uganda Railways wagons in 1903.
By 1911 the first non-African coffee plantations were started with the Arabica species being preferred in the markets. The luxuriant growth in the earlier times showed a good future for the crop in Bugisu. But this blossoming never lasted after diseases reduced the yields. This occurrence gave Robusta coffee grown in Buganda an opportunity to be recognized and compete as an option.
Today Robusta coffee is harvested on the foothills of Mount Rwenzori where until recently it was hard-hulled, winnowed and picked physically. Another producer of Arabica coffee is West Nile.
Besides the cultural importance, Buganda and Uganda as a whole are not being left behind as coffee becomes the most popular beverage consumed across the world statistics have it that the export performance is on an upward trend.
What is being done?
Given the importance of coffee culturally and economically, the Buganda Kingdom and the Uganda government are sparing no effort to see to it that the growers economically benefit from berries that are now globally consumed in volumes that are only second to water.
Reliable sources have it that 2 billion cups of coffee are consumed every day with its production exceeding 150 million 60kg bags today. Consequently in Uganda, like elsewhere in the world, coffee shops are cropping up everywhere.
Aware of this coffee's economic potential, the Katikiro (Buganda Kingdom Prime Minister) Charles Mayiga has consistently been advocating for the subjects to plant more trees and harvest money.
"Besides the cultural importance of coffee to Buganda," asserts Mayiga. "We should top the commonwealth producer of coffee instead of being ranked the largest African producer and seventh world producer. Coffee contributes 30% of Uganda's total export earnings – plant more trees to fight poverty."
In the same tone, the government is not sparing any effort to improve smallholder livelihoods by boosting the quality and volume of their output. This commitment is seen through the collaboration of the Uganda Coffee Development Authority (UCDA,) the Ministry of Agriculture, Animals Industry and Fisheries and the National Agricultural Research Organization (NARO).
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