June
2014
Exploring the universe of timepieces and watchmaking
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STAR POWER A. Lange & Söhne
Richard Lange Perpetual Calendar "Terraluna"
BASEL’S BEST Top picks of BaselWorld 2014! SOCCER MAD Horology scores with football SUPER SYNTHETIC Silicon technology powers on
EYE ON THE HEAVENS Why astronomial complications continue to fascinate and charm us
BY TIMMY TAN
FROM LEFT: Back view of the Richard Lange “Terraluna”. The same watch in white gold case.
If there is one mechanical watch that might be useful to Christopher Columbus and comic book hero Tintin, the Richard Lange Perpetual Calendar “Terraluna” by A. Lange & Söhne will surely be among the top choices. In addition to the Terraluna’s unique perpetual calendar feature, the other great function is none other than the innovative orbital moon phase display at the rear, depicting the moon relative to the earth and the sun, the first in a wristwatch. The sun is represented symbolically by the balance wheel while the moon (in its correct phase) is seen through
an aperture on the celestial disc, which completes one revolution in an anti-clockwise manner around the earth every month. The moon phase display is so precise that it will be 1,058 years before the one-day error occurs and manual adjustment is required. With an understanding of the moon phases, one can better appreciate the Terraluna. Moreover, it will also be easier to grasp the phenomena of solar and lunar eclipses. Angry gods and hungry men In 1504, after being stranded on the northern coast of Jamaica for more than six
months, Columbus and his crew were facing food shortages as the native inhabitants supplying them grew increasingly unhappy with their huge appetites and plundering ways. The Italian-born explorer, who was supported by the Spanish crown, then decided to play it by the book, literally. That book was the Ephemerides by German astronomer and mathematician Johannes Müller, who went by the Latin name Regiomontanus. Through his calculations and observations, Regiomontanus had predicted a total lunar eclipse on 29 February 1504, a phenomenon occurring when the moon passes through earth’s umbral shadow. 55
Armed with this information, Columbus called for a meeting with the leader a day before this lunar eclipse and informed him that the gods were angry with them for not co-operating with the European explorers. He explained that the displeasure of the gods would be expressed with the disappearance of the moon the following night, which they obviously disbelieved. The total lunar eclipse took place as predicted and the terrified natives immediately asked Columbus to intercede with the gods on their behalf. The big man that he was, Columbus told the natives before the lunar eclipse ended that all was forgiven and that the moon would return. The moon returned, and the food supply was promptly restored. A few months later in June 1504, Columbus and his crew who were by then stranded for a year, were finally rescued by a Spanish ship. It can therefore be said that the 1504 lunar eclipse “saved” the lives of Columbus and his crew. We don’t condone bullying, but just imagine their fate if Columbus did not have the Ephemerides. More than 500 years later, just this 15 April 2014, a lunar eclipse may have saved an American couple living in Fresno, California – to witness the lunar eclipse, the couple decided to camp out in their backyard, during which time a short circuit started a fire that burned their house down, leaving them financially scarred, but otherwise unscathed. Whether divine intervention was at work is debatable but the fact is, lunar eclipses are linked to many religious beliefs. Such events continue to fascinate with the next total lunar eclipse scheduled to take place on 8 October this year. Swallowing the Sun In Prisoners of the Sun by Hergé, the 14th volume of The Adventures of Tintin, the comic book hero and his friends (Captain Haddock and Professor Calculus), are
captured by a group of Incas, and are to be put to death. However, a courtesy is extended in that they can choose the hour of their death. Tintin then saves the day by choosing the hour that coincides with a solar eclipse. A solar eclipse occurs when the moon passes in between the sun and earth, and partially or fully blocks out the sun. Such a phenomenon only occurs during a new moon phase. Experiencing the eclipse, the Incas came to believe that Tintin had divine powers which he used to make their sun god disappear, and make it come back again at his command. Tintin and his friends were then set free. While Lange’s Terraluna will not indicate when a total lunar eclipse or solar eclipse will happen, it will offer accurate information on when a full moon phase or new moon phase is occurring. With such information on the Terraluna, Columbus and even Tintin would have been in a much
better position to plan their moves or anticipate more precisely whether a lunar or solar eclipse will take actually place. Over the moon With symbolic depiction of the earth, moon and sun, it can be said that Lange’s Terraluna offers the most graphic detail in terms of visual aesthetics for a moon phase display. Of course, there are also other moon phase mechanisms, of which a more traditional display can be seen on Blancpain’s Villeret Moon Phases Carrousel. Interestingly, Blancpain has paired its moon phase mechanism with its flying carrousel and calendar date pointer, a first for the brand. There is also De Bethune’s highly precise DB28 Digitale with the 3D central spherical moon comprising two polished hemispheres, one in palladium and the other in flameblued steel. This moon phase display will only register a one-lunar day error every 1,112 years.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Blancpain Villeret moon phases carrousel. Greubel Forsey QP à Équation. De Bethune DB.28 Digitale
At first glance, the Rotonde de Cartier Earth and Moon watch with the blue lapis lazuli dial does not come across as having a moon phase display. In fact, not only does it house a tourbillon, it also has a second time zone display through a 24-hour disc and an on-demand moon phase indication. The tourbillon is the symbol of the moon. By activating the pusher at 4 o’clock, a round disc swings down and partially covers the tourbillon, forming a crescent that represents the moon phase at that point in time. Sarpaneva’s Korona K0 Wuoksi is another timepiece that features a very discreet moon phase display. A full moon phase is indicated only when the hand-engraved pair of eyes are perfectly aligned within the aperture at 12 o’clock. After which, a rotating disc will then slowly cover the eyes. A new moon phase occurs when the disc which represents the
night sky with stars fully covers the pair of eyes. Now what if Tintin had to choose his “execution time” right down to the hours and minutes (rather than just the hour) and relied on mean time while the Inca used real solar time by referencing a sundial? Mean time is the standard unit of time measurement we use and it assumes that the sun’s movement across the celestial equator is uniform. On the other hand, solar time varies as the earth travels around the sun in an elliptical manner. The difference between mean time and solar time at any given moment is what is known as the “equation of time”, and can differ by as much as 16 minutes. The probability of Tintin now giving a time for the solar eclipse can be extremely challenging as mean time and solar time only coincide four times each year. One solution for greatly improving Tintin’s odds: Greubel Forsey’s QP à Équation which not only features the perpetual calendar on the dial but the equation of time display including the seasons, solstices and equinoxes at the rear. With the QP à Équation, Tintin would have been able to give a more precise “execution time” that coincides with the solar eclipse. The moon phase display, perpetual calendar function and equation of time form only a small part of the many interesting horological complications which remind us of this complex universe we live in and how to make sense out of it. We are fascinated by celestial bodies because they give meaning to our lives, and this explains why religion and beliefs are closely intertwined with them. As Adam Frank, author of the book, About Time, states: “Human life is set against the natural rhythms of the sky.” And most importantly, as he rightly points out: “These celestial changes are the raw materials of time.” To which we wish to add: to make meaningful sense of our existence. 57
THE WAY, WAY BACK
In an industry held captive by hype and hyperbole, A. Lange & Söhne’s uncomplicated ethos to “make the best watches ever” harks back to cherished and honourable times BY ALVIN WONG
TOP: Gunter Blumlein, Walter Lange and Hartmut Knoth at the relaunch of A. Lange & Söhne in October 1994. BOTTOM: Lange CEO Wilhelm Schmid
Back in 2000 when yours truly was a rookie writer, simultaneously getting schooled and shocked by the brilliance and excesses of the luxury watch industry, the name A. Lange & Söhne was posited by my thenboss as a symbol of horological stature. “Two collectors in business class were showing off their Lange 1s – both very proud,” he reported upon his return from a work trip. It was the first time I heard of the brand. The image of two aficionados unabashedly flaunting the same watch, by a company whose name sounded unfamiliar and possibly unSwiss, was intriguing. Was my ex-boss on to high endwatchmaking’s next big thing? As it turned out, A. Lange & Söhne (Lange, for short) was no insider’s tip. Founded in 1845 and relaunched in 1994 after a lengthy hiatus caused by World War II, which all but wiped out its operations, the Glashuttebased brand had been the toast of aficionados since its revival. As for the Lange 1 watch brandished in alleged shows of one-upmanship, my initial reaction after looking up its pictures was anti-climatic. Intersecting off-centred subdials in a classic round case? Distinctive but old-fashioned. And the top-dollar price tag? A luxury watch, certainly, but so are many other timepieces. Looking back, those are just the kind of assessment one would expect, really, from an illinformed novice. Digging Deep Like the most rewarding courtships, a love affair with Lange, I soon discover, is best nurtured over time. The company doesn’t tempt with promises of flash or fame. And it certainly isn’t in the business of luring cursory glances with the aid of celebrity ambassadors. Lange has ads for publicity, but the brand hasn’t changed its look and approach for the past 16 years. In short, if you want to ‘get’ Lange, you’d have to make
the first move. “Our job is to produce for collectors who understand watches,” says CEO Wilhelm Schmid. “It’s a big world out there and we have to find our place in it. That’s why we keep our mission clear: we are dedicated to making the world’s best watches, that’s all.” The approach sounds haughty, but it works. Those familiar with Lange – a cognoscente that includes both in-theknow aficionados and master watchmakers – are unanimous in their praise of the brand. Lange’s commitment to traditional, handcrafted horology is legendary. Its watches’ classic and understated style belies myriad artistic and technical virtues; bearing inventiveness, technical finesse, decorative artistry and exquisite finishing that are among the best in the business. Lange’s Technical Director, Anthony de Haas, who has been with the company for the past nine years, says he is proud that their timepieces are “not created based on marketing briefs”. “We are not a creative brand per say,” he explains. “We are only trying to make great watches the way we know best. It is a down-toearth approach with the objective of achieving high watchmaking standards. We pride our creativity on logical thinking.” Pedigree & Pride If there’s anything commonplace about Lange, it is the stereotypical image of a German enterprise that it projects: performance focused, stringent about quality, uncompromising and determined. Lange is a brand with two distinct pasts. After its establishment in the late 19th century by Ferdinand A. Lange, the company enjoyed a spell of modest prosperity right up till World War II. Operations had to cease simply because the war left the Lange factory in smithereens. Eventually, it took the founder’s great grandson Walter Lange, who escaped to the West after serving in World War II only to witness the destruction of the factory afterwards, to re-establish the factory by sheer passion and perseverance. 59
Walter rebuilt his family business with help from famed entrepreneur Gunter Blumlein, who was instrumental in reviving brands like Jaeger-LeCoultre and IWC. Both sought to restore Lange to its previous eminence by embracing its original tenets of innovation and craftsmanship. This ode – or continuity, for some – is exemplified by proprietary mechanisms such as three-quarter movement plates and the Lange balance spring, which are still found in its watches today. In the past, Lange was known for producing refined gold pocket watches marked with the ‘1A’ stamp, which was issued to German products of the highest quality. Suffice to say, Walter sought to produce timepieces that echoed similar sophistication and finesse, anchored by a commitment to handcraftsmanship and mechanical progress expressed by the company’s forebears. “The benchmark (for our relaunch) was the company’s legendary tradition. It committed us to the utmost in precision and quality,” says Walter. On the day of the brand’s 1994 relaunch, four years after Walter Lange re-registered the business, the company showcased four collections – 123 watches in total – which were promptly sold out. There was the Lange 1, which has become the signature collection; the Arkade ladies’ wristwatch, endowed with the Lange outsize date but has since been discontinued; the Saxonia, a sleek, mid-sized gold watch also with
FROM TOP: Assembling the Zeitwerk dial. The Lange workshop circa late 19th century. Lange movements are lauded for both performance and exquisite finishing.
FROM TOP: Watchmaker bevels a threequarter plate. Close-up of a Lange tourbillon. Lange watches are famously assembled twice to ensure optimum functionality. RIGHT: Exquisite outsize date; and the Tourbillon finishing on a “Pour le Mérite”, the piece de Lange bridge. resistance with fusée-and-chain transmission, a feature previously never seen in a wristwatch. While there was an immediate sense of elation and euphoria following the relaunch, Walter remembers that there wasn’t much his team did to celebrate the successful comeback. “We went straight back to work,” he says. Past Perfect Today, Lange is a jewel in the crown of the Richemont Group, the luxury conglomerate that owns top brands such as Cartier, Montblanc, Vacheron Constantin and Alfred Dunhill. Yet, with annual production of approximately 5,000 watches a year, Lange remains, in theory, a niche brand. “Lange inhabits two worlds – one in our workshops in Glashutte, where the small and intimate world of handcraftsmanship rules, and a wider world of global luxury, where competition is intense. I hope to be able to link up the two worlds,” says Schmid. At the moment, Lange seems to be making all the right moves. It has only been 20 years since the company’s relaunch, but it has built an impressive repertoire that, to use a music industry term, is “all killer no filler”. There are now six product families – Lange 1, Saxonia, 1815, Richard Lange, Zeitwerk and the gratifyingly christened Unrivalled Masterpieces, which comprise unique technical pieces such as the Datograph and Lange 31. All watches and components are conceived and produced in-house, from cases to hairsprings. And as often espoused in Lange’s publicity
“WE PRIDE OUR CREATIVITY ON LOGICAL THINKING” – ANTHONY DE HAAS materials, the movements, which are finished to the highest possible standards, are assembled twice to ensure optimum performance. When it comes to technical innovation, Lange is the horological equivalent of a bluesman. The company works within strict boundaries, but is constantly improvising and improving to push the envelope. Take the Datograph. Introduced in 1999, the watch helped kickstart the trend for in-house chronograph movements among luxury watch brands. Or this year’s 1815 Tourbillon, which features patented stop-seconds and zero-reset functions. Working together, the former allows the tourbillon cage to be stopped, while the latter allows the seconds hand to jump to the ‘12’ position, so that time can be set or synchronised with increased accuracy. “If you think about it, some of these improvements will not grab one’s attention and make him go ‘wow’. Better torque, longer power reserve, readability and enhanced user friendliness – these are challenges that have occupied watchmakers for centuries and we are still constantly finding better solutions. This is what we do at Lange,” says de Haas. “We put a lot of thought into what we do,” he adds. “Some might not be easily discernible but we are very proud of them.” De Haas could well be echoing the sentiments of the two collectors who were showing off their Lange 1s all those years ago. 61