DOUG WERNER
SURFER’S START-UP
SECOND EDITION
DOUG WERNER
SURFER’S START-UP
SECOND EDITION
PR
3
EFACE DOUG WERNER I began writing this book because I
together in broad strokes designed to
knew it would be fun. As I got rolling, I
get you out in the water and give it a
realized I had something to say. Per-
go. It’s loose in its treatment of any-
haps there is a real need for this guide.
thing historical, oceanographic or tech-
Most of us learn on our own. I didn’t see
nical. But you’ll get the picture. I hope
any “How-to-Surf” books around. Since
my surfing buddies don’t turn on me or
somebody was bound to read it. I also
ridicule my efforts too much. But I ex-
figured I could attempt to instill some
pect it. From now on, every time I fall off
attitude in this thing. Mostly respect.
someone is going to hand me this book.
For surfers already in the water, for the
Anyway, have fun with it. If you take it
situation that exists, for the sport I love
up, be good to the sport, to the surfers
so much. This book is easy to read, big
who came before and to yourself.
on pictures and light in spirit. It’s put
SURFING GEAR
SURFER’S START-UP
CHAPTER ONE
CHAPTER ONE SURFING GEAR
SPONGE IS GOOD In the first edition I said this about soft
slice, the beginner may venture into his or her les-
boards: “Avoid those spongy, beginner
son with more confidence. They’re designed to surf
boards. Although softer and safer, the
good for newcomers and the more modern shapes
feel of a sponge boat is just too weird.
are recommended. Early sponge board models really
Get a real surfboard made of foam and
sucked.” Although, it’s still true that all beginners
fiberglass. You’ll be safe enough if you
graduate to foam and fiberglass, just like you went
use your head.” Now I say: “There are
from bike with training wheels to without. Soft boards
soft novice boards available that surfing
are training devices and it’s not necessary that you
instructors and their students swear by.
learn on one. You can learn successfully on a real
These sponge boards hurt less when
foam and fiberglass surfboard if it’s the right size and
they hit and have rounded find that will
shape for you.
not cut. Because they don’t bash or
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GOING FROM YOUR BELLY TO YOUR FEET ON A SPEDDING WAVE WILL PROBABLY SEEM EVEN MORE DAUNTING, BUT YOU CAN DO IT!
FINDING THIS BOARD Find a surf shop in your area that rents.
size and shape, try another shop. It will do no good to
For a few bucks you can try a board
settle for anything less. Try asking around. The surfers
before buying one and get a feel for
at the shop or you could ask the surfers at the beach
the size and shape you’ll ultimately
may know of something. You should be able to locate
need. Check out the selection. Notice
one that’s right for you. Surfboards are plentiful and
how beat up they look. This is their last
finding one that will work at this stage in your bud-
stop before the dumpster. Bow your
ding surfing career should be easy.
head in silence and appreciation for the lives they’ve led and find one that’s big, fat and ugly enough for you. Don’t be swayed by looks. If you can’t find anything on the racks that’s the right
CHAPTER ONE
GET A BOARD AT LEAST
TALL AS YOUR HAND RA
ABOVE YOUR HEAD... THI BIG, FAT AND UGLY.
SURFING GEAR
THE RIGHT SURFBOARD The right surfboard to learn on is big
more difficult to transport and manage
enough for you to paddle easily and
in the surf. Make sure it fits unders your
to sit on comfortably without sinking.
arm and that you can carry it. Leashes
This is crucial! Get a board at least as
are also important. Get a leash. It’s an
tall as your hand raised above your
elastic cord that attaches to your ankle
head, about three inches thick and 22
and connects you to the surfboard. It
inches wide in the middle. Think big, fat
keeps the board around when you wipe
and ugly. Avoid the small, thin models
out (fall off) and prevents “killer board.”
(which as prevalent) because you’ll spend all your time fighting them. A board taller than your reach is fine. Just remember a much bigger board is
T AS
AISED
INK
9
CHAPTER ONE
WETSUITS LET YOU STAY IN THE WATER LONGER. THEY WORK BY LETTING SOME WATER IN THE SUIT. THAT’S WHY THEY’RE SURFING GEAR
CALLED “WET” SUITS.
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GET A WETSUIT Everybody wears wetsuits most of
perature is 75, the water temperature
the time these days. They’re colorful,
75 and the wind calm, you won’t need
fashionable and cover wayward flesh.
or want a wetsuit. You may want to
Unless you’ve swallowed a beach ball,
wear a T-shirt or a nylon slipover if your
they make most of us look like wave
skin is sensitive to the waxed surface of
argonauts. They also keep you toasty.
your board. If a suit is desirable, look to
Wetsuits let you stay in the water lon-
rent. If you cannot rent one, buy a used
ger. They work by letting some water in
one. Just make sure there aren’t any
the suit. That’s why they’re called “wet”
holes in it and that it fits snugly. Not
suits. Once inside a snug suit, water is
so tight you turn red, but that it just
warmed by your body and acts as a hot
stretches across limbs and torso. Baggy
water bottle. Obviously, if the air tem-
suits will not work.
PADDLING
SURFER’S START-UP
CHAPTER TW0
CATCHING A WAVE
SURFER’S START-UP
CHAPTER THREE
SYDNEY DEITZ
VISC 302 | 2019