FISH & SEAFOOD

JOHN BURGESS

Cioppino

Heat the olive oil in a deep soup pot over moderate heat and add onions, garlic, carrots and celery. Saute until vegetables are lightly browned.

Add the tomatoes, wine, stock, bay leaves, basil, oregano, fennel seed and chile flakes. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to a simmer and cook, partially covered, for 25 minutes. Strain if desired, discarding solids, and return broth to pot. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Add crab and mussels to the broth and cook over moderate heat until mussels open. Add fish and shrimp and cook for another 3 to 4 minutes or until fish is just cooked through.

Place a piece of toasted sourdough in the bottom of warm bowls and ladle soup on top. Sprinkle chopped parsley over everything and serve immediately.

— John Ash

PAIRING SUGGESTION: This version of Cioppino, a rich flavorful fish stew with Italian roots, uses red wine so that would make a good pairing. Choose a smooth, medium-bodied wine like sangiovese or syrah.

Makes 8 servings 1/4 cup olive oil 3 cups onion, chopped 3 tablespoons garlic, chopped 1 cup carrot, chopped 2/3 cup celery or fennel, chopped 1 28-ounce can whole peeled or diced tomatoes (preferably San Marzano) 21/2 cups red wine 5 cups fish or chicken stock 3 large bay leaves 1/4 cup fresh basil, chopped, or 2 teaspoons dried 1 tablespoon fresh oregano, chopped, or 1 teaspoon dried 2 teaspoons fennel seed 1/2 teaspoon red chile flakes, or to taste — Salt and freshly ground pepper 1 whole Dungeness crab (2-3 pounds), cleaned and chopped into sections 11/2 pounds fresh mussels (18-24) 1 pound rockfish or Pacific cod, filets cut into 2-inch cubes 16 medium deveined shrimp 8 thick slices of sourdough brushed with garlic olive oil and toasted 1/4 cup parsley, chopped

Seafood Cau-Cau

Saute the onion in a pan with vegetable oil until tender. Add garlic and aji amarillo paste and cook for 1 minute. Add cumin and turmeric and mix all together.

Add 1 cup of stock and the cubed potatoes. Let cook until potatoes are almost done. Add the octopus, shrimp, calamari and scallops along with remaining stock. Cook for 1 minute over low heat and taste.

Incorporate the minced mint leaves and mix all together. Turn off the stove and add the lime juice. Add salt and pepper, to taste. Serve with Peruvian White Rice (recipe below).

Note: You can buy premade paste or make it yourself. To make your own, blend six aji amarillo peppers with two cloves garlic, 2 teaspoons salt and 1/2 cup corn oil. Put in a jar, and refrigerate.

Peruvian White Rice

In a large saucepan, heat oil and add rice and salt. Stir the rice until you start seeing the color change (to deep white); add the garlic and saute for about 1 minute.

Add the water and stir. As soon as it starts boiling, cover with the lid and cook on minimum temperature for 20 minutes. Do not open lid. After 20 minutes (don’t open the lid yet!), turn off the stove and let rest for about 10 to 15 minutes. Fluff with a fork and enjoy. — Olenka Orjeda

PAIRING SUGGESTION: This Peruvian dish can be spicy, so choose an off-dry white wine with some residual sugar, which tones down the heat. Riesling, the most versatile of wine varieties, would be great here as would drier-style muscat.

Makes 4 servings 4 tablespoons vegetable oil 1 red onion, small dice 4 cloves garlic, finely chopped 5 tablespoons yellow aji amarillo paste (see note at left) ½ teaspoon cumin 1 teaspoon turmeric 2 cups fish stock 4 white or red potatoes, cut into ½-inch cubes ¼ cup cooked octopus, chopped 16 shrimp (prawns), peeled and cleaned ½ cup calamari, cleaned and chopped 15 small scallops, cleaned 6 sprigs mint, finely minced 2 teaspoons key lime juice — Salt and pepper

Makes 4 servings ¼ cup corn oil 2 cups long-grain basmati rice — Salt 3 tablespoons garlic paste 1½ cups water

Salmon Burger

In a medium bowl, combine all the ingredients for the salmon mixture. It should just hold together and not be too dense and heavy. Add more breadcrumbs or mayonnaise, if needed. Divide the mixture and form into four cakes no thicker than 1 inch. (The salmon cakes may be prepared in advance to this point. Store uncovered in the refrigerator for up to 4 hours.)

Dredge the salmon cakes in remaining panko breadcrumbs that you’ve seasoned with salt and pepper. In a large saute pan over moderate heat, add oil to just cover the bottom. Saute the cakes until golden brown, about 3 minutes per side. Serve immediately, with a dollop of the Green Goddess Dressing.

Makes 4 servings 8 ounces fresh salmon, cut into ¼-inch dice 8 ounces fresh salmon, very finely chopped 4 ounces fresh uncooked shrimp, cut into ¼-inch dice 2 egg whites, beaten ¼ cup red bell pepper, finely diced, blanched quickly and drained 2 tablespoons green onions, finely chopped 1½ tablespoons lemon zest, finely grated with a microplane 1 teaspoon jalapeño chile, seeded and minced, or to taste 1 tablespoon or so mayonnaise — Kosher or sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste ½ cup or so panko or other coarse dry breadcrumbs, plus more for dredging — Olive oil for sauteing — Green Goddess Dressing (see recipe below)

Green Goddess Dressing

Combine all ingredients except salt, pepper and lemon juice in a food processor and pulse a few times to combine. Season to your taste with salt, pepper and lemon juice. Store covered and refrigerated for up to 3 days.

— John Ash

PAIRING SUGGESTION: The creamy dressing suggests a creamy white wine like chardonnay with restrained oak or pinot blanc.

Makes 1 generous cup ¾ cup mayonnaise ¼ cup sour cream or crème fraîche 4 (or more) anchovy fillets packed in oil, drained and chopped 3 tablespoons chives, chopped 2 tablespoons parsley, chopped 1 tablespoon capers, drained and chopped 2 teaspoons lemon zest, finely grated — Sea salt and freshly ground pepper — Drops of fresh lemon juice

Interactive Sushi Party

Sushi Rice

Prepare all ingredients and rice ahead of guests' arrival. Set table with rolling mats, ingredients, rice, seaweed and water bowls.

When rolling the sushi, keep the mat tight while shaping the sushi inside the nori seaweed. Cut the sushi roll into thick slices to serve.

For shrimp: Skewer shell-on shrimp with 4-inch bamboo skewers and drop into boiling water until the shrimp rise to the top. Immediately transfer cooked shrimp to ice water bath to cool. Remove skewers and shells. Add shrimp to reserved sushi rice vinegar seasoning (see recipe below), and let marinate for 20 minutes.

Makes 8 to 10 servings 1 English cucumber, seeds removed, cut into 6-inch pieces and sliced thin 3 avocados, sliced 1 pound baby spinach, sauteed, cooled and pressed dry 2 organic carrots, preferably heirloom varietal, peeled and sliced thin 1 piece daikon radish, peeled and sliced thin 1 pound shiitake mushrooms, sliced thin and sauteed 1 enoki mushroom, stem removed and pulled apart 1 pound smoked salmon 1 pound white shrimp, shell on, deveined — Toasted white or black sesame seeds 1 bag nori seaweed (for rolls) 1 bamboo rolling mat per person — Small bowls of water for each person to keep hands damp

Rinse rice in medium bowl until water becomes clear, about five times. Transfer rice to strainer and let dry for 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, combine all remaining ingredients in pot and bring to a low simmer, allowing sugar and salt to dissolve. Strain and reserve. Add rice and 41/2 cups filtered water to heavy-bottom pan and bring to a boil. Cover and turn heat to low, cooking for 20 minutes. Transfer rice to large mixing bowl and slowly add 3/4 cup vinegar seasoning, mixing with a wooden spatula. Spread rice out onto a baking sheet to allow it to cool quickly and evenly. Serve at room temperature with sushi roll ingredients. Reserve remaining rice vinegar seasoning for shrimp in recipe above.

— Jake Rand

Makes 8 to 10 servings 4 cups short-grain sushi rice

For rice vinegar seasoning

1 cup rice vinegar 6 tablespoons natural sugar 1 mirin (0.45 ounce) 1/2 inch piece kombu 2 tablespoons salt (1.12 ounces)

PAIRING SUGGESTION:

The natural drinking accompaniment would be sake, making this your chance to delve into this fascinating flavor world if you haven’t already.

Seafood Paella

For sofrito: In a stainless steel pot over medium heat, add olive oil and sweat the garlic and onion with bay and rosemary until translucent. Add the Piment d’Ville and cook for 1 minute. Add white wine and reduce by 75%. Add tomatoes and salt, and cook over low heat until reduced by 50%. Set aside or place in the refrigerator if you’ve made it ahead.

For shellfish stock: In a small stock pot, add olive oil, sweet onions, leeks, carrots, garlic and bay leaves and cook until translucent. Add shrimp shells and saute. Add water and wine, and simmer for at least 2 hours. Add saffron water and strain. Stock can be prepared in advance.

For saffron aioli: In a mortar and pestle, crush the garlic with the salt. Add all the other ingredients except oil. Drizzle in the oil very slowly while emulsifying. (This also can be made in a blender or food processor.)

For paella: In a 16-inch paella pan over medium heat, add in the oil. Add the chorizo and shallots. Cook for 3 minutes, until shallots are opaque.

Add in rice and stir for 1 minute. Add in sofrito and stir for 1 minute.

Add in stock and stir for 30 seconds. Let cook for 15 to 18 minutes.

Add clams while there is still a little liquid that hasn’t been absorbed yet. Place shrimp on top to steam. Cook for another 10 to 13 minutes.

Add beans into the rice, drizzle in a little olive oil and sprinkle Piment d’Ville and salt into pan.

To top, add basil and cilantro leaves and serve with the lemon wedges and saffron aioli.

— Perry Hoffman

PAIRING SUGGESTION: This is a rich, complex dish so pick a rich, full-bodied white like pinot blanc or a sensibly oaked chardonnay.

For sofrito

Makes 6 servings 3 tablespoons olive oil 5 large garlic cloves, minced 1 cup yellow onion, diced 2 fresh bay leaves 2 sprigs rosemary 1 teaspoon Piment d’Ville 2 cups white wine 2 tablespoons salt 3 cups good canned whole tomatoes, grated with juices

For shellfish stock

1 tablespoon olive oil 1 large yellow onion 1 leek 1 carrot 2 cloves garlic 2 bay leaves — Shells from shrimp (see below) 9 cups water 1 cup white wine ½ gram saffron (bloomed in 200-degree water for 15 minutes)

For saffron aioli

4 garlic cloves — Salt, to taste 2 egg yolks 1 tablespoon lemon juice 1 tablespoon Dijon 1 tablespoon saffron water (see above) 2 cups good extra-virgin olive oil

For paella

1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil 6 ounces Spanish-style chorizo, diced 4 large shallots, minced 3 cups Spanish Bomba or

Calasparra rice 1½ pounds Manila clams 1 pound shrimp of choice, peeled and shells reserved for stock — Large handful summer pole beans, trimmed and used raw if they are sweet — Olive oil, sea salt and

Piment d’Ville, on hand

For toppers

— Handful of basil and cilantro leaves 1 lemon, sliced into wedges — Saffron aioli (see above)

FIRST NAME LAST NAME

Grilled Oysters and Tips

Choosing oysters: Be sure the shells are tightly closed, indicating the oysters are alive. Discard oysters with open shells. When you shake the bag, it should sound like a bag of rocks. If there is a hollow rattling sound, there’s at least one dead one in there. For oysters that will be eaten raw, buy the extra smalls. For oysters that will hit the heat of the grill, purchase smalls or mediums.

Shucking oysters: Rinse any residual mud from oysters with cold, running water.

Place an oyster on a double-folded kitchen towel with the cupped side of the oyster facing down on the towel. The “hinge” of the oyster should be facing you.

Fold the top of the towel up over the front of the oyster and stabilize it with your hand. This puts your hand above the oyster and not in the direct path of the oyster knife. Place the tip of your oyster knife into the hinge at about a 45-degree angle and, with light pressure and a slight wiggling motion, pierce the hinge muscle. You’ll feel the knife slide into the muscle when pierced. It may take a little practice to find the proper angle, but after your first dozen, you’ll be a pro.

Once you’ve pierced the hinge, twist the knife to separate the hinge muscle and access the underside of the top shell. Keep the tip of the knife in the hinge and rotate your knife around to the right side of the oyster, angle the front edge slightly up against the top shell and push the knife forward, scraping along the top shell to sever the top adductor muscle, located about two-thirds of the way lengthwise from the hinge on the right side. This will allow you to remove the top shell.

If serving the oyster raw, you can slide your knife under the oyster meat at the front of the oyster (opposite the hinge) and sever the lower adductor muscle located in the same place as the top muscle, but underneath.

Now, the oyster can be slurped right out of the shell. When the oyster is grilled, this muscle softens and this step can be skipped.

PAIRING SUGGESTION: Classic beverages to serve with oysters are sparkling wines (Champagne, prosecco or cava) or lemony sauvignon blanc.

Grilling oysters 101

1Light the charcoal or preheat a gas grill. Warm your sauces and gather some tablespoons or small ladles.

2Shuck the oysters, discarding the top shell and leaving the oyster in the bottom shell. Arrange onto a sheet pan or plate. Tip: Place a layer of rock salt on the plate to help stabilize the oysters.

3Place oysters on the grill over medium heat, avoiding the hottest sections of the grill so water pockets in the shells don’t rupture and “pop.” It’s a good idea to wear glasses or protective eyewear when grilling oysters. The oyster is cooked through once the liquid in it begins to boil. Return it to your plate or sheet pan and apply sauces.

4Don’t apply the sauces when oysters are on the grill. Spilled butter will cause flare-ups and make the oyster shells pop like it’s the 4th of July, sending flying oyster shrapnel in all directions.

Garlic Butter

Louisiana Hot Sauce

Combine all ingredients in a small pot on low heat. Allow to simmer for 15 minutes and remove from heat. Allow to cool for 15 minutes.

Place garlic butter in blender and puree.

Makes about 1/2 cup 1/4 pound (1 stick) unsalted butter 1 tablespoon garlic, minced 1/2 teaspoon garlic powder 1 teaspoon salt

Sweat onion and garlic in a saucepan with a small piece of the butter until translucent.

Add hot sauce, Worcestershire, garlic powder and onion powder to pot and bring to a simmer. Remove from heat and allow to cool for 15 minutes. Place sauce in blender with cold butter and salt, and puree. — Brandon Guenther

Makes about 2 cups 1/4 cup yellow onion, minced 1 teaspoon garlic, minced 1/2 pound (2 sticks) unsalted butter, cut into small pieces and refrigerated 1 cup Louisiana-style hot sauce 1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce 1 teaspoon garlic powder 1 teaspoon onion powder 1/2 teaspoon salt