WNC Travel Guide | 2021 by Smoky Mountain News

Looking Ahead WNC Paddler Heading to Olympics Mountain Bike Trails Coming to Canton

BBQ & Pizza Pie WATERFALLS | BREWERIES | LIVE MUSIC

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If you’ve picked up this publication, then, by all accounts, you’re in search of outdoors adventure and countless memorable experiences in our backyard paradise that is Western North Carolina. As folks proud of our region, we also take a lot of pride in making those who visit feel as welcomed and embraced as possible. Life is about trying new things and meeting new people, and what better place to do so than with Mother Nature’s masterpiece of the Great Smoky and Blue Ridge mountain ranges as the backdrop? Take to the trail for a day-hike or mountain bike ride, or to the river for some vigorous kayaking or tranquil fly fishing, or take to Main Street for an afternoon of shopping, perhaps a farm-to-table dinner or live bluegrass performance. The beauty of Western North Carolina resides in the mere notion that every day is a blank canvas by which we have all the colors of possibility at our disposal to paint with. Between our array of weekend festivals and seasonal events, the hardest part is simply figuring out what to do. It’s all here, and more.

INSIDE: Food+Drink

Patience, passion and pork . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 From bean to table: Steamline Coﬀee Co. . . . . . 8 Coast to Coast and Carolina, too . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 Proof is in the pie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 WNC BRE WERIE S

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17

Art+Culture

Haywood County’s own Balsam Range . . . . . . . 22 Craft cocktails, intimate setting . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 Drive-in music series thrives. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 M O U N TA I N M U S I C . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 9 MUSEUMS ................................................................3 0 E VE NTS .............................................................. ......49

Outdoors+Recreation

A trail for everybody . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Bryson City teen joins Olympic team . . . . . . . . 38 Vehicle-free Cades Cove . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 HIT THE BIKE TRAILS ...............................................3 6 ON THE RIVE R ................................................... ......3 9 THE SMOKIES .........................................................40 BLUE RIDGE PARKWAY ...................................... ......42 WATE RFALLS ..................................................... ......44 CLIMB A MOUNTAIN .......................................... ......46 On the Cover: One of the most popular spots in all of WNC, Max Patch is a bald mountaintop in Haywood County. Attracting thousands of locals and visitors each year with its 360-degree views, the Appalachian Trail also crosses over the beloved peak. Steve Yocom photo | steveyocomphotography.com

I’ve always believed the litmus test of the strength of a place resides in how well its community aims at bringing one and all together. Give me a town where the people really care and are well-vested in the community and its potential, and I’ll give you a location that is pulsating with activity, with love and passion, intellectuality and enthusiasm for the unknowns of tomorrow — bring it on, y’all. — Garret K. Woodward, Arts & Entertainment Editor

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Scott McLeod . . . . . . . . . . . . . . info@smokymountainnews.com Garret K. Woodward. . . . garret@smokymountainnews.com

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Bookkeeping: Amanda Singletary . . smnbooks@smokymountainnews.com If you’d like bulk copies of the WNC Travel Guide to distribute at your business, email your request to classads@smokymountainnews.com or call Distribution Manager Scott Collier at 828.452.4251. Contents ©2021/2022 The Smoky Mountain News. All rights reserved.

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Eats+Drinks Patience, passion and pork: Big Nick’s Barbecue

Coming oﬀ Exit 85 on the Great Smoky Mountains Expressway, a funny thing happens to drivers when they’re about halfway down the hill heading into Sylva — they start to get hungry. It isn’t the chain restaurants dotting the busy four-lane road, nor is it the sense of nourishment needed after another day running around the mountains. Rather, it’s the tantalizing scent of fresh barbecue wafting into your vehicle. “We’ve got barbecue until we don’t, then you’ll just have to come back tomorrow,” Tim Fisk said. “We don’t want to make so much barbecue that it just sits around — by doing that, the quality of the barbecue suﬀers. It’s all about freshness and making everything from scratch, every single day.” Owner of Big Nick’s Barbecue in Sylva, Fisk is the second generation of a storied barbecue family. His late father, “Big Nick,” was a beloved name in Southern barbecue. A legendary pit-master, Big Nick owned and operated several successful barbecue joints from Florida to Western North Carolina, most notably the Rib Country locations in Murphy, Hayesville and North Georgia. When Big Nick passed away four years ago, Fisk decided it was time to leave the family business and go out on his own. Amid 25 years of experience in the barbecue world, he wanted to strip down the approach and menu to just the bare bones — barbecue, burgers and a handful of sides offered, all under a simple banner and ambiance. Thus, Big Nick’s Barbecue came to fruition in Sylva, taking over the small brickn-mortar building that once held Robbie’s, a cherished burger spot that had been a familiar part of Jackson County’s culinary identity for over 50 years. Recently, Big Nick’s also opened a second location in Murphy. “We wanted a low overhead, one where the entire focus was on the barbecue and nothing else. And we wanted a small dining room with a focus on takeout ordering,” Fisk

“We don’t want to make so much barbecue that it just sits around — by doing that, the quality of the barbecue suﬀers. It’s all about freshness and making everything from scratch, every single day.” — Tim Fisk

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said. “In this day and age of the pandemic, everyone wants to do takeout, and this place is tailor-made for that — either call in an order or pull up and honk for service.” Fisk estimated that the Sylva location feeds upward of 150 folks each day, with the Murphy location providing barbecue for somewhere between 300-400 hungry patrons. The well-portioned and hearty barbecue is as mouthwatering as it is in demand (which is high), with several signature sauces available for dipping and ﬁnger-lickin’. “We’re trying to really get back to that barbecue place, that roadside stop we all remember from long ago. We’re here from 7:30 in the morning until 8:30 every night, all to make sure everything is done correctly,” Fisk said. “We have very high standards for our barbecue. For us, it’s like this fun puzzle we have to ﬁgure out and put together every day — it’s a deep passion.” Leaning back in his chair in the dining room, Fisk adjusts his facial mask and his trusty Big Nick’s Barbecue hat. He readies himself to head back into the kitchen at the culmination of this newspaper interview. Although it’s mid-afternoon, there’s still lots of barbecue left to be sold and an endless stream of customers, as heard by the constant ringing of the phone behind the counter or incessant honking outside. When asked what his father, Big Nick, would think of “all of this,” Fisk can’t help but smile ear-to-ear, a jovial chuckle echoing throughout the dining room. “Oh, he’d love it. He’d like seeing his name on the building, seeing how we prepare the barbecue just the way he did, the same standards and everything,” Fisk said. “We remember the old man every day — this place is a tribute to him.”

WNCTravel

2021

Eats+Drinks From bean to table: Steamline Coﬀee Co.

Cabell Tice. Luke Sutton Photography

Friday morning in downtown Waynesville and Orchard Coffee is bustling. There are those entering and waiting patiently for strong coffee and freshly baked goods, those exiting with full hands and big smiles. It’s a familiar sight for the popular familyrun business. And yet, for co-owner Cabell Tice, all he can think of lately is what’s down the road — literally and figuratively. “It’s all been part of the plan. I’ve been passionate about roasting for a number of years,” Tice said. “I’ve worked for some roasters. And I’ve roasted coffee in competitions, where we did really well, too.” The “part of the plan” Tice is referring to is Steamline Coffee Co. A full-scale roastery just a few buildings down the hill from Orchard on Depot Street, Steamline was launched by Tice and his family, which includes his mother, siblings, wife and children. “I wanted the roasting brand to be different than Orchard, because I feel that Orchard really embodies the spirit of farming, which is a big part of the heritage of this area,” Tice said. “With Steamline, it’s celebrating the train and railroad lines that connected and expanded this country, ultimately bringing growth to Waynesville, Haywood County and Western North Carolina.” Although Steamline initially planned to start roasting in January 2020, the pandemic and eventual economic shutdown

stalled those plans, where all focus and energy went into ensuring the ﬁnancial stability of Orchard. “Steamline had to go on pause for a while, where that capital to start the roastery was put to the side in case we needed it going forward with Orchard,” Tice said. “Thankfully, after a few months of being open and still able to sell coﬀee and goods at Orchard, we knew we could put Steamline into high gear to start roasting.” Tice noted that, as of now, Steamline will

not do any online sales. All of its roasted coffee will only be sold onsite at Orchard. Heading down to Steamline once a week, Tice estimates the company produces about 150 pounds of coffee in that single roasting session, all of which gone and sold within days. “Once you’ve built your flavor profiles and your curves, it’s kind of anti-climactic because you’re just replicating the process and simply paying attention to ensuring that the machinery works properly,” Tice chuckled.

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“But, for me, what I love about it is being able to work alone and enter this kind of relaxed space, where I have music playing and I’m focused on the quality of our product.” As a tribute to his mother, Maria, who remains a beloved fixture behind the counter at Orchard, Tice has been experimenting with and producing roasted coffee from her native Mexico. “I wanted to be able to highlight coffee from Mexico. So, most recently, I’ve been able to source a Mexican coffee that we love from Chiapas,” Tice said. “And in doing that first Chiapas roast, it felt so much more important to me within the roasting process. It wasn’t just making beans, it felt like part of who I am, and it means so much to serve that coffee alongside my mom at Orchard.” With Steamline, Tice looks at the new venture as a way to ensure the quality of ingredients and brand awareness radiating from up the hill at Orchard. “For us, we know we’re using the best ingredients, where everything has a good balance of flavor and we have control over all the facets of the bean,” Tice said. “By offering our own beans, we can put something out we’re fully proud of — we’re not taking a break on the pursuit of excellence.” Aside from the ever-evolving nature of his businesses, Tice & Co. will also be expanding the food menu at Orchard. The current breakfast options will soon include lunch dishes, with dining hours also extending throughout most of the day. “We have big dreams as a small shop,” Tice said. “Our goal is to do the best job here, to really serve our community. We love Haywood County, so our focus is to keep ingraining ourselves in this awesome place.” When asked about how 2020 and the shutdown affected his business and family, Tice paused for a moment, seemingly remembering all of those faces (from near and far) who still showed up at the front door — standing six feet apart down the hill and around the corner — in search of a cup o’joe. “When the pandemic hit, you really could see that people were voting with their dollar. They were saying they care about our business and that they want us to stay here — that really kept us going,” Tice said. “When we opened, we took a chance on Waynesville and Waynesville took a chance on us. We showed up here and didn’t know anybody. This community has fully embraced our business and who we are as people.”

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2021

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Eats+Drinks Coast to Coast and Carolina, too: The Rivers & Rails Tavern

Sitting in the dining room of The Rivers & Rails Tavern in Dillsboro, Craig Szymanski looked out the window and watched a family wander down the row of shops on Front Street. With the sun falling behind the mountains, the hungry group noticed the lights of the newly established tavern. Curiosity getting the best of them, they walked across the railroad tracks and into the restaurant. Checking out the menu, there are surprised looks and jovial banter while discussing what to eat and where to sit. Szymanski and his crew welcomed the family before ducking back into the kitchen to prepare the meals. “Whether they’re locals or just visiting, we want to give the people who come in here something special,” said Szymanski, head chef/owner of Rivers & Rails. “We want to ﬁll those holes in our culinary scene with these great dishes that are all inﬂuenced by my travels in working in the food industry for most of my life.” Since its opening in August 2020, the business has already created a word-ofmouth buzz as a “must try” culinary destination for Jackson County and greater Western North Carolina. Consisting of a wide-array of appetizers and entrees — steak medallions, candied Korean steak bites, tinga de pollo/carnitas tacos, pickle brined fried chicken/Cubano sandwiches — the menu is scrumptious map of where Szymanski and his family are from, where they’ve gone, what they specialize in, and what they want to share with their customers. With its dining area fully operational, the newly constructed bar/taproom is also up and running, catering to troves of folks and foodies alike in search of an artisan meal right here in their own backyard. “We focus on making everything from

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scratch, all the way down to the mustard and ranch dressing — it’s all made onsite,” Szymanski said. “We cook everything to order, which means nothing is pre-made. There’s no burger sitting in juice waiting to be served. If you want a burger, we’re going to prepare everything fresh the second you order it.” That attention to detail and keen awareness of his reputation being attached to every single plate that leaves his kitchen comes from Szymanski’s upbringing in New York, specifically Rockland County. Raised just outside of The Big Apple, Szymanski was a teenager in the 1980s when he started washing dishes and prepping ingredients at city eateries, gradually working his way up to becoming a chef of his own. As expected, those decades-old metropolitan restaurants were tight ships that expected quality and respect to what not only what was being served, but also who was serving it. “I learned so much from growing up in New York, where we’d go right into the city and experience some of the greatest food you’ll ever eat, everything from Italian or Chinese — you soak in all of this culture and tradition,” Szymanski reminisced. From New York, Szymanski headed for culinary work in California, working and honing his kitchen craft in authentic Mexican and Asian restaurants for the better part of 20 years. During this West Coast period, Szymanski also acquired and developed a successful catering company. By December 2018, Szymanski and his family had decided to relocate to Western North Carolina. It was a fresh start, with Szymanski eventually becoming the chef at Balsam Falls Brewing when its kitchen opened in August 2019. That move eventually parleyed itself into the recent opportunity for Szymanski to finally open a restaurant of his own. Cue the vision for Rivers & Rails that has now come to fruition. “I’ve taken my career in New York and California restaurants, and my travels around Italy and Europe, and applied it to what we want to do in Dillsboro,” Szymanski said. “We want to offer these dishes you can’t find anywhere. There’s so much room for growth in the food scene here, this growth you really can’t find anywhere else — we love it here.”

WNCTravel

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Eats+Drinks Proof is in the pie: Dough Boys artisanal pizza

Grabbing a seat inside Mad Anthony’s Taproom in downtown Waynesville one recent evening, Benji Boessel and Alex Tinsley can’t help but gaze around at the other tables. “When you put yourself out there, you’re putting your reputation on the line every day,” Tinsley said. “We’re having so much fun doing this. To look around and see the

people enjoying what we’re doing is such a high for us — we’re fueled by that.” Passionate members and contributors to the business and social circles of Haywood

County, Boessel is the president of White Fox Studios in Frog Level, while Tinsley is the co-owner of Clean Sweep: The Fireplace Shop in West Waynesville. Tinsley was also the executive chef at the former Gateway Club, and at Balsam Mountain Preserve. What the duo has been up to in recent months is Dough Boys Pizza & Wings. Situated in the former kitchen of Mad Anthony’s, this brand new artisanal pizza spot is meant to not only complement the popular taproom, but also bring forth a diﬀerent approach to handmade pizza in our backyard. “Benji and I are best friends, and we have this great group of friends, where we all travel together, see new places. And we’d always scout out the great pizza joints wherever we went,” Tinsley said. “Then, we’d come back home and couldn’t really ﬁnd that New York style of artisan pizza we love around here. So, we started making our own at home and when we’d all hangout.”

During the quarantine and shelter-in-place last spring, the group of friends huddled together and stayed in their small social bubble. While doing so, they had to find ways to pass the time together, so they kept experimenting with pizza formulas: different doughs, ingredients and cooking approaches. “We messed around with the dough for a long time,” Tinsley said. “There’s something about people falling in love with baking bread and the work that goes into making something with your hands — this intricate process of stretching the dough and making sure everything is just right.” Initially, there was talk of simply running a brick oven and pizza pickup window out of the White Fox Studios. But, when the kitchen became available at Mad Anthony’s, Dough Boys jumped on the opportunity to lease the space — a partnership that felt seamless, perhaps almost serendipitous. “It’s a beautiful relationship — we handle the back of the house, they handle the front,” Boessel said. “Businesses have to change and evolve to survive in these times, and this is a way to do just that.” Purchasing a full-size industrial pizza oven, Dough Boys had to carefully hoist and pivot the massive piece of equipment on a pallet jack from Clean Sweep (normally used to move heavy woodstoves). Once in place last fall, they began to invite friends and family over to try out test runs of artisanal pizzas currently on the menu. “It’s wild to see your friends come in for pizza five days a week, but what’s really amazing is seeing those new customers coming in three to four times a week,” Boessel said. “In good times and in bad times, you still have to eat, and pizza is one of those unique dishes that is communal — it brings people together.”

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Cowee School Arts & Heritage Center Built of local stone in 1943 on the site of a former Civilian Conservation Corps camp, the Cowee School educated area youth for nearly seven decades. The historic structure, in the heart of the Cowee-Wests Mills Historic District, is now an arts and heritage center serving Western North Carolina residents and visitors. Within a half mile of thousands of years of history, from the ancient Cowee Mound to the Rickman Store, the Cowee School Arts and Heritage Center is the hub of the Nikwasi-Cherokee Cultural Corridor. The center oﬀers classes in the arts, pottery, weaving, shape-note singing, clogging, and mountain music among others. Rental space oﬀers families and groups a place for weddings, reunions, and meetings. Cowee School is known for its events. The Annual Franklin Area Folk Festival, held on the third Saturday in August and organized through a partnership with the Folk Heritage Association of Macon County, draws thousands of visitors from all over to enjoy cultural arts, music, folk demonstrations, and food. The Cowee

• Painting lessons • Toy Museum • Art Galleries

School Summer Concert Series, beginning in May and running through October, oﬀers high quality entertainment from several genres of music, with an emphasis on traditional styles such as bluegrass, Americana, and folk. Except for one up-and-coming band each year, the series includes award-winning nationally and internationally touring bands and musicians.

• Textiles and Weaving • Alarka Expeditions • Concerts

• Eastern Band of Cherokee Display • Pottery School • Mountaineer Handcrafts

Please check our website for events and updates. 51 Cowee School Drive, Franklin | CoweeSchool.org | 828.369.4080 WNCTravel

2021

Eats+Drinks

Staying true to your roots: Lazy Hiker Brewing

On most days, the patio at Lazy Hiker Brewing in downtown Franklin is ﬁlled with locals and visitors alike, each enjoying the concoctions pouring out of from the large warehouse behind the taproom. “We always want to make great beer. But, how do we tie it into the community? How do we get people to come here and make them want to come back?” said Timothy Sark, assistant brewer at Lazy Hiker. “Our big thing is all of those people going northbound or southbound on the Appalachian Trail. We want to cater to their tastes and what they’re looking for in a craft ale.” What those rugged and determined AT hikers in the mountains surrounding Franklin are looking for is a craft beer that is not only ﬂavorful and drinkable, but also crisp and refreshing after those endless miles of blood, sweat and tears. While many breweries focus on hearty styles and tend to be heavy on the hops,

Lazy Hiker remains a bastion for ales that you can easily sip and immerse yourself in amid your “carry in, carry out” backwoods journey. “It’s about seeing the joy on people’s faces when they do the brewery tour and head into the taproom. It’s a great feeling to know that craft beer is being brewed in Franklin,” said Graham Norris, a Franklin native and head brewmaster at Lazy Hiker. “And for us, we’ve been able to continue to build on that, where now you’re seeing our beers in bars, restaurants and grocery stores all over Western North Carolina.” Coming into 2020, Lazy Hiker was gearing up to celebrate its ﬁfth anniversary in operation. It was, and remains, a milestone for the

brewery, even more in the face of eventual shutdowns and restrictions in the current era of the coronavirus. “Five years is a benchmark for any business, especially in craft beer,” Sark said. “You can have a great place to drink beer, hang out and see live music. But, no matter what, the beer has to remain consistent. Your reputation is attached to every pint poured and keg sold. At Lazy Hiker, we know our band and what works — so, let’s continue doing it and making it better each time.” During the last calendar year, Lazy Hiker produced around 1,500 barrels on a robust 15-barrel brew house, which includes six 30barrel fermenters, one 15-barrel fermenter and two brite tanks.

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With its new in-house canning line, the ales are now available in 38 counties in North Carolina and 37 counties in Georgia. Recently, Lazy Hiker opened a satellite taproom on Main Street in Sylva. “We’re a small company, but we’re pretty tight-knit. We support each other, and that has allowed us to grow into what we do and want to do,” said Norris, who has been the brew master since opening day. But, beyond the brand and the brews, the core of Lazy Hiker is its family spirit. The same week the bars, breweries and restaurants shutdown in March 2020, Sark also became the father of twin girls. Even with a newborn in each arm and a pandemic raging outside, his mind was at ease in regard to his line of work. “Graham took the reins and said, ‘We’re good here at the brewery and the setup will be ﬁne. Take time with

WNC Breweries Andrews • Hoppy Trout Brewing Company 828.835.2111 www.hoppytroutbrewing.com • Snowbird Mountains Brewery 678.419.3035 www.snowbirdmountainsbrewery.com

Bryson City

Highlands

• Mountain Layers Brewing www.mtnlayersbeer.com • Nantahala Brewing 828.488.2337 www.nantahalabrewing.com

• Satulah Mountain Brewing 828.482.9794 www.satulahmountainbrewing.com

Canton

• BearWaters Brewing 828.944.0009 • bearwatersbrewing.com

• BearWaters Brewing 828.246.0602 www.bwbrewing.com

Cashiers • Whiteside Brewing 828.743.6000 www.whitesidebrewing.com

Cherokee • Native Brews Tap & Grill 828.497.2739 www.native-brews.com

your babies and your family,’” Sark said. “We brewed quite a bit before the shutdown to prepare for me being at home with my girls. Our company has always been ‘family ﬁrst’ — that business model means a lot to us here.” Finishing up their work duties for that day, Norris and Sark lock up the warehouse and head for the patio to enjoy the fruits of their labor. Sipping on Lazy Hiker’s “Trail Haze New England IPA,” the duo relaxed at the picnic table, soaking in the last of the sunshine as it faded somewhere behind the nearby mountain ridge that cradles the Appalachian Trail and all its explorers. “You pour your heart and soul into these products and then you see someone drink that product and enjoy it — that’s a pretty quick return on investment,” Norris smiled. “It comes down to community, and how communities gather around the taps to be together and have a good time. This place brings people together and from that, the culture and camaraderie of the town evolves, too — it’s a beautiful thing.”

WNCTravel

2021

Dillsboro • Innovation Brewing 828.586.9678 www.innovation-brewing.com

Franklin • Currahee Brewing 828.634.0078 www.curraheebrew.com • Lazy Hiker Brewing 828.342.5133 www.lazyhikerbrewing.com

Hayesville • Haynesville Brewing 828.835.6010 • Nocturnal Brewing 828.305.7337 www.nocturnalbrewing.com

Maggie Valley

Murphy • Valley River Brewery 828.837.2337 www.valleyriverbreweries.com

Sapphire • Sapphire Valley Brewing 828.743.0220 www.sapphirebrewingcompany.com

Sylva • Balsam Falls Brewing 828.631.1987 www.facebook.com/balsamfallsbrewing • Innovation Brewing 828.586.9678 www.innovation-brewing.com • Lazy Hiker Brewing 828.349.2337 • www.lazyhikerbrewing.com • Nantahala Brewing (Outpost) 828.641.9797 www.nantahalabrewing.com

Waynesville • 7 Clans Brewing 828.454.5664 • www.7clansbrewing.com • Boojum Brewing 828.944.0888 • www.boojumbrewing.com • Frog Level Brewing 828.454.5664 www.froglevelbrewing.com

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2021

Arts+Culture Finding a better way: Cullowheegee Farms Natural Soaps & Crafts

About three years ago, Sarah and Eric Rehmann uprooted their lives in Raleigh and headed for Western North Carolina. Sarah Rehmann.

The young couple had just gotten married and were looking for a change, personally and professionally — something that would bring them closer to the mountains they enjoyed hiking and exploring. “We loved our jobs [in Raleigh], but we were always so busy. We were looking forward to a slower pace of life and wanted to get busy building a more sustainable life,” Sarah said. “Whenever we could squeeze together a couple of days off, we would visit Western North Carolina. We’d often daydream about someday owning land and living a more sustainable life.” Once Eric got a position as a chef for Western Carolina University in 2017, the Rehmanns relocated to an 11-acre piece of property in Tuckasegee which they dubbed Cullowheegee Farms. “I’ve always loved to create and design, but working heavily in the restaurant industry [in Raleigh] didn’t leave much time for creativity. But, once we moved here, I found inspiration everywhere,” Sarah said. During Christmas 2017, Sarah was looking for different ways to make handmade gifts for loved ones. A friend recommended that she perhaps dive into handmade soap as a possible gift option. “That was the ‘aha’ moment, ” Sarah said. “I always had sensitive skin and had recently converted to natural soaps myself and had seen a huge improvement in my skin. And I decided to give it a try in making my own soaps.” From the outset, the Rehmanns have intended to turn Cullowheegee Farms ultimately into a multifaceted property of artisan crafts and agricultural products. As the landscape and ideas for it started to take shape, Sarah quickly gathered supplies and knowledge for handcrafting the soap. “Making soap is both a science and an art,” Sarah said. “I made my favorite combination, this lavender and oatmeal batch, and was immediately hooked [on the creation process]. I started posting photos online of the soaps and was overwhelmed by the amount of people who asked if I was selling the bars.” Since launching the natural soap company, Cullowheegee Farms offers around 20 vari-

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“When people visit these mountains, they’re reminded of the importance of nature, of handmade and homegrown [products].” — Sarah Rehmann, Cullowheegee Farms Natural Soaps & Crafts

eties, with each sporting a unique and aesthetically-pleasing appearance that emerges from the varying layers and combination of ingredients. The soaps are palm oil free, using only essential oils for fragrance and natural color pigments from herbs and clays. The packaging is eco-friendly, with a nod to eliminating single-use plastics by oﬀering not only bar soaps, but also shampoo and conditioner bars, lotion bars and biodegradable lip balm. “I love how there are endless combinations of soaps to create. It keeps it interesting and I’m always thinking up new creations, researching diﬀerent herbs and oils to use to provide the best products for our customers,” Sarah said. “When people visit these mountains, they’re reminded of the importance of nature, of handmade and homegrown [products]. Mountain culture doesn’t heavily rely on big business and mainstream society to get by.” Aside from several local businesses that carry the soaps, the Rehmanns also set up shop at the Jackson County Farmers Market

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2021

every Saturday in Sylva. “We’ve been blown away at the support this community has given us right from the beginning,” Sarah said. “The people we’ve met here are so genuine and truly want you to succeed. They’ve been a great support, especially in the beginning stages by helping us promote and get into stores.” But, perhaps more importantly, the journey for the Rehmanns and Cullowheegee Farms has become one of deep and personal fulﬁllment. In 2016, Sarah’s mother passed away after a courageous 11-year battle with breast cancer. “She was treated with traditional medicine, which changed the way I looked at a lot of things. For the ﬁrst time, I discovered the importance of what put in and on our bodies and how it impacts our health,” Sarah said. “Though she passed away, her passion for nature and creativity lives through me. And from the very beginning of this soap venture, I wanted to stay true to those passions.” www.cullowheegeefarms.com

Arts+Culture

Balsam Range.

Rivers, rains and runaway trains: Tim Surrett of Balsam Range

In its 14 years together, Haywood County’s own Balsam Range has risen into the upper echelon as one of the marquee acts in the national and international bluegrass scene — this once in a generation blend of songbird harmonies and lightning fast ﬁnger pickin’. Dozens of No. 1 hit songs on the radio, with three more added to the list since the shutdown of the music industry last year (“Richest Man,” “Grit and Grace,” “Rivers, Rains and Runaway Trains”). Some 13 International Bluegrass Music Association (IBMA) awards in seemingly every category, including “Entertainer of the Year” (2014, 2018), “Album of the Year” (2013, 2017), “Song of the Year” (2011, 2015) and “Vocal Group of the Year” (2014, 2015). And yet, the most impressive feat by the quintet remains the band itself. The same

five members (a rarity in the music business), still the best of friends and bandmates. Each just as passionately and creatively driven today as that first impromptu kitchen jam session in Canton that caught melodic fire just about a decade and a half ago. WNC Travel Guide: After a year of the shutdown of the entire music industry, y’all recently played your first shows of 2021. Was it kind of like learning to ride a bike again? Surreal? Tim Surrett (bassist, Balsam Range): Yeah,

especially the first one, down in Walhalla, South Carolina. When we walked out, we were nervous and excited. But, the crowd was just so happy to be out and going to a show. When we walked onstage, they just blew our heads off. And it was just like that the whole night. It took [away] the fear, because all of us [backstage] were like, “Gosh, I hope I can remember the words [to the songs].” [Laughs]. It was a great load [that was] lifted — it’s just been really good. Is there kind of a justification when you’re in that moment of why all the blood, sweat and tears are worth it? There is for me. That hour and a half or two hours [onstage]? The little trip you take with that crowd, that bond? If you don’t love that, then I’m not sure what the payoff is? [On the way to Walhalla], I told the guys, “This will be one of two things. We’ll either say, ‘Lord have mercy, we’ve missed this’ or ‘Good Lord, why did we start this in the first place?’” [Laughs]. You know, it’s not easy [touring and performing]. Lack of sleep. Long travel. But, it’s all worth it. If you don’t have that love of

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those two hours [onstage], then I’m not sure what you’re doing. Exactly. And, at the same token, the shutdown has proven to people that music is not just entertainment, it’s a healing force. Oh, absolutely. There was an old fellow I used to travel with [when I was in] The Kingsman Quartet. He said, “Boys, in our job, we don’t have the authority or the power to change the world, but our job is to make them forget their car payments that’s due Monday.” It’s deﬁnitely a much-needed diversion, something to take your mind oﬀ what’s going on [in your life and] in the world.

Special Occasions and everyday fashions

Balsam Range has won pretty much every big award in bluegrass, played every big stage and festival, collaborated with countless legends. After 14 years, what is it that still keeps the band motivated and coming back to the creative waters? We still have the desire to make as good a body of music as we can. And the process is fun. Getting together at [lead singer/fiddler] Buddy [Melton’s] house and jamming out. The process of putting songs together, recording them — we enjoy that. The same thing that put us together in the first place is still there. What does it mean to you that, after all these years, it’s still the same five guys up there onstage and in the studio? We may be the longest running [bluegrass] band with the same personnel, [at least] that I can think of anyway. And that’s amazing because it’s flirted with disaster numerous times for whatever reason. Every one of us has thought about doing something else or quitting — it’s not an easy existence. But, especially in the last two or three years, it’s settled into a really good, long-lasting marriage or something like that. We’re very comfortable. Everybody knows what everybody else’s reactions are going to be to whatever happens. [These days], the travel is so much more fun. We pick the shows we want to play and the places we want to go. There’s a lot of laughing and carrying on. We’ve been together so long, we think of something that everybody remembers, like “that show we played on a flatbed trailer in somebody’s pasture,” you know? It’s a lot of fun still, and that’s a big deal to us.

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2021

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Arts+Culture Craft cocktails, intimate setting: Dark Moon

Crossing the threshold of the White Moon café in downtown Sylva, one is drawn in by the scent of culinary delights and unique beverages.

Cecelia White and Don Panicko.

But, against the back wall is a nondescript door. There’s no sign on it, nor is there any indication that the entryway serves any more of a purpose than a broom closet. Turning the doorknob, you’re soon pulled into Dark Moon, an intimate and intricate speakeasy. Underneath the dim lighting, there’s an array of quality spirits and wines, cheeses and meats, as well as an extensive handcrafted cocktail menu. “We wanted to create a small European

style, big city bar,” said Don Panicko. “The concept is to create a ﬂow around Sylva, where you either start or end your night at Dark Moon. It’s about the connectivity between all of these great dining and nightlife spots in downtown.” Alongside his wife, Cecelia White, the young couple has seemingly doubled-down on the strong business and community roots they’ve grown in the two-and-a-half years since White Moon opened its doors. With

Dark Moon, it’s about bringing forth the artistic talents of White and Panicko, who each come from elaborate backgrounds of creativity and pursuits. “We care so much about the environment we’re creating, and I think that elevates the experience for everyone who comes in here,” Panicko said. “We like to go to new places and pay attention to all the little subtleties. It’s about traveling and collecting experiences, and being influenced by those places — if I see something really good and clever at a spot, it sticks with me.” With the speakeasy setting, Panicko finally gets to dive deep into his passion for handcrafted cocktails, a skill set he picked up while living and working in the New York City restaurant/bar scene. “I enjoy coming up with all of these different kinds of craft cocktail recipes, carefully measuring out everything and making sure everything is perfect in presentation and taste,” Panicko said. “There’s no cutting corners — your Tuesday drink will taste the exact same as your Saturday drink.” A Charlotte native, White attended the prestigious Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT) in New York City, while Panicko (hailing from California) worked his way up through the service industry in The Big Apple. Both found their way to Western North Carolina on separate journeys, ultimately crossing paths in Asheville. With White working in apothecary goods and Panicko headlong into woodworking in Asheville, they soon discovered the harmonious mountain town of Sylva. Fast-forward a few years and now they have two businesses open and thriving within the community. And even though Dark Moon was conceived before the shutdown (and constructed in 2020), White and Panicko were steadfast in keeping their vision alive, now coming to fruition. We didn’t close a single day during the shutdown,” White added. “We survived for months simply barricading the front door and taking online orders. And what’s really great is that during that time, the local community started to catch on to what we’re doing — we’re very appreciative that people love and appreciate us.”

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Arts+Culture Grace Potter. John A. Zara photo

Drive-in music series thrives in Maggie Valley

In the late spring of 2020, Russ Keith was cruising down U.S. 19 through the heart of Maggie Valley. Soon, he noticed the festival grounds out of the corner of his eye. He pulled in, stopped and got out of his car. “The gate was unlocked, so I just walked out there and stood in the middle of the property,” Keith said. “And I knew this was the place — it needs to happen right here.” Owner of The Grey Eagle Music Hall in Asheville, Keith saw immense potential in the Maggie Valley Festival Grounds as a destination for a drive-in concert series. Now,

with everything in place, the series oﬃcially launched in September 2020 with bluegrass legend Sam Bush. Since Bush appeared onstage in Maggie Valley, other national acts have performed, including Mandolin Orange, St. Paul & The Broken Bones, Grace Potter, Del McCoury Band, and Jason Isbell.

With the current pandemic, the entire live music industry had pretty much come to a screeching halt. So, promoters and venue owners had to get creative. By being able to adhere to social distancing guidelines and protocols, the drive-in series has taken ﬂight slowly and steadily around the United States. “It was very challenging, just trying to ﬁnd the right location and getting the right people onboard who see the vision that we have,” Keith said. “It’s been great working with the Town of Maggie Valley and the community itself. They were itching for some live music and they knew of the reputation of The Grey Eagle.” A legendary venue in the Southeast, The Grey Eagle is regarded as one of the most beloved and storied stages of its kind across the country. “We want to let people know that The

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Grey Eagle isn’t going anywhere,” Keith said. the pandemic and an event calendar that Keith put together the drive-in series along- has been pretty much wiped clean. side Jeff Whitworth of Worthwhile Sounds. A “We wanted to work with Russ and The full-service booking agency and artist manGrey Eagle from day one. Their reputation is agement company in Asheville, Whitworth second-to-none in the Asheville music scene has worked with The Grey Eagle and several — they’re about quality,” said Nathan Clark, other venues (and festivals) around the West- town manager of Maggie Valley. “We went ern North Carolina for several years. Most slowly through this process to get it right, with notably for Haywood County, Worthwhile our thinking now as to how to make this a Sounds is also the booking arm behind the long-term relationship with The Grey Eagle.” annual Cold Mountain Music Festival at the “We’re very excited to see such an innovaLake Logan Conference Center. tive event happening in Maggie Valley and “Honestly, it’s refreshing to be back in the Haywood County,” added Ben Wilder, assissaddle again and to be pushing music out tant director for Visit NC Smokies and the there,” Whitworth said. “Tickets for the Haywood County Tourism Development Audrive-in series are already selling well, which thority (TDA). “The drive-in concert series is reaffirming to our belief that people are will bring in a significant impact on weekready to get back out and experience live music — they’re missed seeing it and we’ve missed putting it on.” In terms of the festival grounds, the setup with be as follows: 250 cars allowed (with different ticket pricing tiers available), each vehicle will be given a 20x20-foot box with space for parking and for outside seating/viewing (bring your own camping chairs), St. Paul and The Broken Bones. John A. Zara photo with the concert also transmitted live to your FM car radios (if you choose to redays and weekends this fall. We look formain in your vehicle). ward to welcoming new visitors and music “The festival grounds was an obvious enthusiasts to our community.” choice for us because it has an infrastrucFor Whitworth, someone who has worked ture that doesn’t exist in a lot of places in the music industry for over 20 years, he where you’re doing drive-in and pop-up can’t help but smile knowing that the indusshows,” Whitworth said. “The property altry he’s poured his heart and soul into is fiready holds largescale car events throughout nally starting to reemerge in this “new the year, so that shows how well-structured normal” of societal interaction and live the facility is to do a drive-in series. It also music experiences. has multiple entry points for vehicles com“With the uncertainty and the great uning in and going, which is on a four-lane known of everything that’s going on right now, highway near a major interstate — it’s a winit’s reassuring and rewarding to see these win for everyone.” ideas and events come to fruition — to see For the Town of Maggie Valley and greater these things take life,” Whitworth said. “Now? Haywood County, that “win-win” is someWe just have to set our sights to the finish line thing of a silver-lining in a year of festival of that first drive-in show and then grow and cancellations, with tourism faltering amid evolve from there — we’ll get there.”

WNCTravel

2021

Authentic 1926 Caboose

converted into the ultimate vacation destination!

t Station 451 we combine a unique caboose, bath house, patio and farm land into a tiny house you'll never forget. The bright red storybook caboose was part of the famed Chesapeake and Ohio Railway. The caboose cottage itself is located on a private 20 acre residential farm. It is located minutes to I-40, about 30 minutes to Asheville, 20 miles to Tennessee and a mere 1.5 hours to Gatlinburg and Pigeon Forge, TN. Station 451 is approximately 10 miles from the Great Smoky Mountain National Park. Close to hiking, waterfalls, the Blue Ridge Parkway, fly fishing, tubing, kayaking, shopping, fine dining, Harrah's Casino in Cherokee, art galleries, and theater ... you name it and it's a short drive away!

Book your stay: Station 451 is the vacation! Unlike a place where you just lay your head at night, this was an adventure like no other. The caboose is so sweet, and the "depot" (bathroom) is luxury. The connecting deck is the best place to be. We loved being out there! It was a great experience and we hope to return. — Alexandra T.

www.airbnb.com/rooms/17142206 or www.vrbo.com/919819

Super unique, extremely comfy, wonderful location! This place is so fun!!! The location was beautiful and removed enough to feel private but close enough to easily get around town and to the local restaurants and shops. The bath house was beautiful and the amenities were fabulous! — Sarah G.

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Haywood County alt-country act The Brothers Gillespie.

Play me that mountain music Live music is an important part of the heritage of Western North Carolina. Here’s a listing of venues that regularly have bands in the region:

Andrews • Hoppy Trout Brewing 828.835.2111 • www.hoppytroutbrewing.com • Jimmy’s Pick-N-Grin www.jimmyspickngrin.com

Brasstown • John C. Campbell Folk School 800.365.5724 or 828.837.2775 • www.folkschool.org

Bryson City • Mountain Layers Brewing 828.538.0115 • www.mtnlayersbeer.com • Nantahala Brewing 828.488.2337 • www.nantahalabrewing.com • Nantahala Outdoor Center 888.905.7238 • www.noc.com • Unplugged Pub 828.538.2488

Canton • BearWaters Brewing 828.246.0602 • www.bwbrewing.com • Colonial Theatre 828.235.2760 • www.cantonnc.com • Southern Porch 828.492.8009 • www.southern-porch.com

Cashiers • The Ugly Dog Pub 828.743.3000 • www.theuglydogpub.com • Whiteside Brewing 828.743.6000 • www.whitesidebrewing.com

Cherokee • Harrah’s Cherokee 828.497.7777 • www.harrahscherokee.com

Franklin • Cowee School Arts & Heritage Center 828.369.4080 • www.coweeschool.org • Currahee Brewing 828.634.0078 • www.curraheebrew.com • Lazy Hiker Brewing 828.342.5133 • www.lazyhikerbrewing.com

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• Mixers Bar and Nightclub 828.369.9211 • www.mixersbarandnightclub.com • Mulligan’s Bar & Grille 828.349.3183 • www.mulligans-bar.com • Rathskeller Coﬀee Haus & Pub 828.369.6796 • www.rathskellerfranklin.com • Smoky Mountain Center for the Performing Arts 828.524.1598 • www.greatmountainmusic.com

Hayesville • Hayesville Brewing 828.835.6010 www.hayesvillebrewingcompany.com • Nocturnal Brewing 828.305.7337 • www.nocturnalbrewing.com • Peacock Performing Arts Center 828.389.2787 • www.peacockplayhouse.org

Highlands • Lost Hiker 828.526.8232 • www.thelosthikerbar.com • Martin-Lipscomb Performing Arts Center 828.526.9047 • www.highlandspac.net • Satulah Mountain Brewing 828.482.9794 • www.satulahmountainbrewing.com • The Ugly Dog Pub 828.526.8364 • www.theuglydogpub.com

Maggie Valley • BearWaters Brewing (Creekside) 828.944.0009 • www.bearwatersbrewing.com • Elevated Mountain Distilling 828.734.1084 • www.elevatedmountain.com • Maggie Valley Festival Grounds 828.926.0866 www.maggievalleyfestivalgrounds.org • Salty Dog’s Seafood and Grill 828.926.9105 • Stompin’ Ground 828.926.1288 • Valley Tavern 828.944.0703 • www.facebook.com/valleytavern

Murphy • Chevelle’s 828.389.6069 • www.chevellerestaurants.com

Robbinsville • Stecoah Valley Cultural Arts Center 828.479.3364 www.stecoahvalleycenter.com

Sylva • Balsam Falls Brewing 828.631.1987 • www.balsamfallsbrewing.com • City Lights Café 828.587.2233 • www.citylightscafe.com • Cut Cocktail Lounge 828.631.4795 • www.facebook.com/thecutcocktaillounge • Guadalupe Café 828.586.9877 • www.guadalupecafe.com • Innovation Brewing 828.586.9678 www.innovation-brewing.com • Lazy Hiker 828.349.2337 • www.lazyhikerbrewing.com • O’Malley’s Pub & Grill 828.631.0554 • Nantahala Brewing (Outpost) 828.641.9797 www.nantahalabrewingsylvaoutpost.com

Waynesville • Bogart’s Restaurant & Tavern 828.452.1313 www.bogartswaynesville.com • The Gem at Boojum Brewing 828.944.0888 • www.boojumbrewing.com • Classic Wineseller 828.452.6000 • www.classicwineseller.com • Frog Level Brewing 828.454.5664 • www.froglevelbrewing.com • Water’n Hole Bar & Grille 828.456.4750 www.facebook.com/waternhole.bar

What lies beneath: WNC Museums Although the rich history and culture of Western North Carolina is alive and thriving through the hands of our local artisans and performers, there are also numerous museums here preserving and perpetuating the heritage of Southern Appalachia. These buildings each pay homage to the crafts, sounds, and deeply held traditions of these ancient mountains and its people. • American Museum of The House Cat Over 5,000 items dedicated to entire history of the house cat, here and abroad. 5063 U.S. 441 South, Sylva 828.421.0275 or 828.506.1236 www.facebook.com/americanmuseumofthehousecat • Andrews Art Museum Exhibits and galleries featuring local and regional artists. Corner of Chestnut and Third streets, Andrews 828.360.5071 • www.andrewsvalleyarts.com • Appalachian Rivers Aquarium Exhibits regional species of fish, amphibians, reptiles and hellbenders. 117 Island Street, Bryson City 828.488.7857 • flyfishingmuseum.org/aquarium • Canton Area Historical Museum Displays focusing on the cultural history of Canton and Haywood County. 36 Park Street, Canton 828.646.3412 • www.cantonnc.com • Cherokee County Historical Museum Artifacts and exhibits showcasing the Cherokee Indians, local history and artisans. 87 Peachtree Street, Murphy 828.837.6792 • www.cherokeecounty-nc.gov • Clay County Historical & Arts Council Museum Displays exhibiting the history, art and people of the area. 21 Davis Loop, Hayesville 828.389.6814 • www.clayhistoryarts.org • Fly Fishing Museum of the Southern Appalachians Showcasing the history of fly fishing in the South. 210 Main Street, Bryson City 828.488.3681 • flyfishingmuseum.org • Franklin Gem & Mineral Museum Exhibits on the region’s gems and minerals. 25 Phillips Street, Franklin 828.369.7831 • www.fgmm.org

Wheels Through Time Museum.

• Glenville Historical Museum Showcasing the history and culture of Glenville and greater Western North Carolina. 4735 N.C. 107 North, Glenville • 828.743.1658 • Graham County Museum of Prehistoric Relics A collection of prehistoric artifacts from North, South and Central America. 3204 Fontana Road, Fontana Dam 828.479.3677 • www.thehikeinn.com • Highlands Museum & Historical Village A village composed of several restored buildings, with historical exhibits in the museum. 524 North 4th Street, Highlands 828.787.1050 • www.highlandshistory.com • Junaluska Memorial & Museum Displays dedicated to preserving Cherokee Indian history and culture. 1 Junaluska Drive, Robbinsville 828.479.4727 • Macon County Historical Society & Museum Antiques and artifacts showcasing the history of Macon and Western North Carolina. 36 West Main Street, Franklin 828.524.9758 • www.maconnchistorical.org • Mountain Farm Museum Collection of historical log buildings and artifacts. 150 U.S. 441 North, Oconaluftee Visitor Center 423.436.1200 • www.nps.gov/grsm • Mountain Heritage Center Extensive displays of Western North Carolina and Southern Appalachian history. 150 H.F. Robinson Building, Western Carolina University, Cullowhee 828.227.7129 • www.wcu.edu

• Museum of American Cut & Engraved Glass Exhibits presenting one of the ﬁnest collections of its kind in the world. 472 Chestnut Street, Highlands 828.526.3415 • www.ashevilleguidebook.com • Museum of the Cherokee Indian Large exhibits showcasing the extensive and intricate tribe history. 589 Tsali Boulevard, Cherokee 828.497.3481 • www.cherokeemuseum.org • Museum of North Carolina Handicrafts Featuring unique works from some of the state’s most acclaimed artisans. 49 Shelton Street, Waynesville 828.452.1551 • www.sheltonhouse.org • Ruby City Gems Museum Thousands of gem and mineral specimens. 131 East Main Street, Franklin 828.524.3967 • www.rubycity.com • Scottish Tartans Museum Exhibit on Scottish history and culture. 86 East Main Street, Franklin 828.524.7472 • www.scottishtartans.org • Smoky Mountain Trains Museum Collection of 7,000 Lionel engines, cars, accessories, plus large operating layout. 100 Greenlee Street, Bryson City 800.872.4681, x215 gsmr.com/smoky-mountain-trains-museum • Wheels Through Time Museum Rare and extensive collection of vintage motorcycles and classic automobiles. 62 Vintage Lane, Maggie Valley 828.926.6266 • www.wheelsthroughtime.com

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affairsoftheheartnc.com

Since opening in 1989, we have been frequented by locals and visitors alike. Known for our fresh, cooked-to-order seafood, hand-shucked Gulf and Blue Point oysters, poultry, pasta, and hand-cut steaks. DAILY SPECIALS SUNDAY

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1/2 priced all bottles of wine • $2.75 Bud Light Drafts $9.75 Peel-n-Shucked (dine in only) 1/4lb Cold U-Peel-Em Shrimp

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$2.75 Bud Light Drafts THURSDAY $9.75 Peel-n-Shucked (dine in only) 1/4lb Cold U-Peel-Em Shrimp & 1/2 dozen Raw Gulf Oysters

828.456.8945 | 1374 Sulphur Springs Road | Waynesville Open Thursday - Tuesday 11 am to 9 pm • Closed Wednesday

WNCTravel

2021

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DOWNTOWN

WAYNESVILLE SATURDAY, OCT. 16

The streets of downtown are ﬁlled with almost 200 arts and craft booths, food concessions, music, cloggers, and more. Local apple growers set up on the street to sell delicious mountain grown apples of a vast variety. In addition, many vendors oﬀer apple cider, cake, pies, and other delectable apple goodies!

9 A.M. TO 5 P.M.

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2021

Outdoors+Recreation ‘A trail for everybody’: YouTuber raises funds for Canton bike park

A biker takes a jump at a bike park similar to the one Alvo envisions for Canton. Seth Alvo photo

The first trails at Canton’s Chestnut Mountain Park will be ready to ride before the leaves drop this fall thanks to an overwhelmingly successful fundraising effort from Asheville YouTuber Seth Alvo. Alvo, whose biking-focused YouTube channel “Berm Peak” has more than two million subscribers, had the idea in mind before Canton even announced its intention to open a 448-acre natural park in Haywood County. Having traveled all over the country to ride trails and film his adventures, Alvo wanted to bring something he saw as a norm in other areas of the United States back home to Asheville, where he has lived since early 2017. “Free public bike parks are really, really common across the United States, especially on the West Coast,” said Alvo. “But here on the East Coast they’re kind of few and far between, especially the kind of bike park we’re building here.” When Alvo started asking around, he quickly heard about the massive outdoor recreation effort that Canton is undertaking just 15 minutes away from downtown Asheville and enthusiastically offered his support. The previous owners of the 448-acre property, located right off U.S. 23/74 and Interstate 40, considered pursuing various business ventures there before eventually selling it to the Southern Appalachian Highlands Conservancy in 2020 with the town

later purchasing an adjacent 3.3-acre parcel. The land trust is placing conservation easements on the property and will soon transfer it to Canton for use as a public park. The town will develop the property in partnership with Haywood County to offer a variety of backcountry and frontcountry recreation experiences. Alvo’s project, which he describes as “a park within a park” will be the first amenity to open there. “This is one of those projects that will be slow moving,” said Canton Mayor Zeb Smathers. “There will be a lot of excitement and there will be a lull, but we are moving into an exciting phase of this. Berm Park will be the first addition and amenity at Chestnut Mountain.” Smathers is hoping to see the park open this summer, though Alvo said the project might not be complete until the fall, depending on weather and other factors, including the town’s work schedule. Before work can begin on Berm Park, Canton has to

finish building a parking lot and access to it. Once that’s done, the town’s next order of business will be to build pedestrian access from the parking lot to the bike trails. “Our goal for the town especially as we go into budget season is to get people from the parking lot to Berm Park,” said Smathers. “So, during the budget season we will see cost estimates for that and how much we will budget for that.” The town and its partners are also seeking grants for various other efforts, including signage, stream restoration and trail building. Alvo has raised “well north” of $200,000 in business sponsorships and individual donations to build Berm Park, quickly outstripping his original fundraising goal to end up with about 120 percent of that figure. “Instead of getting millions of companies or thousands of companies to give little bits and find a way to shout them all out, I said to be part of the project you have to cover an entire trail,” said Alvo. While he’s not yet ready to announce the

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project’s sponsors, he said they include a bike tool company, bicycle company, national bicycle products retailer, non-alcoholic brewery and an independent donor — a fan of the channel who credits mountain biking with changing his life and health for the better. Additionally, the project is supported by thousands of people from across the world who are donating $2 per month on Patreon, a subscription platform that allows fans to give to their favorite artists and creators. Many YouTubers use it to earn an income without running ads or securing business sponsorships. Alvo doesn’t need Patreon to support his YouTube channel but saw it as the perfect tool to raise support for Berm Park. Now, the project’s 2,442 subscribers are contributing nearly $4,400 per month, which Alvo plans to use for maintenance and upkeep of the park until it eventually transitions to a volunteer-supported model. Western North Carolina may already have tons of mountain biking opportunities, but it’s short on offerings that are beginnerfriendly and accessible without driving for an hour and packing a bag full of emergency supplies. “I’ve seen rescues happen out in Pisgah — it’s a really gnarly place, and it’s unbelievable and we’re lucky to have it, but if you want to start as a beginner, it’s really, really intimidating,” said Alvo. “We don’t have anything for beginners out here. It’s sort of baptism by fire if you start mountain biking in Asheville.” Cullowhee and Cherokee both have professionally designed mountain biking trails located close to the heart of their respective communities, but those systems are more backcountry-oriented and don’t offer the type of short but progressive loops Alvo has in mind. The Jackson County Greenway opened a kids bike park in collaboration with the Nantahala Area Southern Off Road Bicycle Association in fall 2019, but that location doesn’t offer any challenging options for more advanced riders. “You don’t really have anything like this,” Alvo said. “The rest of the country does, and I feel like Asheville is just ready for that. We have the people, we have the demand. We build something like that, the parking lot’s going to be packed every day.” Asheville-based Elevated Trail Designs will plan and execute the project, which Alvo envisions as a series of flow trails offering en-

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joyment and challenge for all skill levels — from children trying out a mountain bike for the first time to expert riders perfecting adrenaline-fueled tricks. Berm Park will feature just a couple miles of trail all told, but length is not the point, said Alvo. Rather, the point is to offer progressive, clearly labeled trails of the highest quality that riders can loop again and again and again. “These entire trails are going to be ‘the best part of the trail,’ he said. “We’re building extremely high-quality trail from top to bottom. You’re going to want to ride it again. We’re just putting tons of resources into short stretches of trail. It’s about putting in laps.” At Berm Park, everybody will start on the same trail — a double-track climbing path from which the five planned descent trails will branch off. The easier routes will start earlier on so that beginning riders will be required to do less climbing and manage a smaller drop in elevation. More advanced riders, meanwhile, might want to try out a slopestyle ride, taking a jump and maybe even doing some mid-air tricks before landing on the other side. However, even these options will be offered with an all-skills-welcome attitude. Riders who fall short of the target will find themselves landing on a sloped dirt bed waiting to catch them. “We don’t have anything to prove,” said Alvo. “We want a safe and progressive place for people to ride, and we want it to be fun.” Aesthetic appeal will also be a key element of the park, and Alvo’s subscribers are a big part of the reason for that. People from all over the world donated to the project, including residents of Sweden, Austria, Germany and the United Kingdom who are unlikely to ever visit in person. “It’s really important for us to give them a way to feel like they’re there, so we’re making the park very visually pleasing and we’re making it easy for people to take photos and pictures and post it on social media and tag it to give these contributors a way to see what they’ve built,” said Alvo. An artist from Asheville will create a sculpture featuring the Berm Park logo to go at the top of the park, and it will feature benches at strategic locations and features made of rough-sawn wood designed to look good in photos and videos. “Any type of bike is going to be welcome here,” he said. “There’s going to be a trail for everybody.”

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Outdoors+Recreation Mountain Biking

This is one of the fastest growing recreational activities in the Smokies, one easily witnessed by all the vehicles with mountain bikes strapped to the back or top. Pretty straightforward as to why so may partake of this sport: the Smokies contain some of the best bike trails anywhere. Here are the popular spots: Cherokee’s Fire Mountain Trails Twelve-mile system with wide variety of terrain from beginners to relatively serious downhill sections. This is one of the best-maintained trail systems in the Smokies region. Trailhead is in downtown Cherokee at the Oconaluftee Indian Village. Tsali Recreation Area This is the granddaddy of Western North Carolina mountain biking, boasting 40 miles of trails on four loops. Rated as one of top 10 places to ride in the U.S. Fast, hard-packed singletrack, and you can’t go wrong with any of the loops. Oﬀ N.C. 28 past Bryson City, or if coming from Robbinsville N.C. 143 until you reach N.C. 28, go east. Entrance on north side of N.C. 28, well-marked. Santeetlah Lake Trail A 15-mile trail open to mountain bikes, horses, and hikers. The trail follows a number of open and gated Forest Service roads with a short portion of singletrack. Large sections of the trail hug the shoreline of Lake Santeetlah oﬀering beautiful mountain lake views. The primary trailhead is located at the intersection of N.C. 143 (N.C. 1127) and Snowbird Road.

Jackrabbit Mountain Located next to the huge Jackrabbit Campground at Lake Chatuge, this 14-mile trail system is gaining popularity fast. Mostly ﬂat with rolling dips and berms and just a few technical areas. At Lake Chatuge get on N.C. 175, turn onto Jackrabbit Road, signed parking area on left. Western Carolina University Trail More than 7 miles of singletrack across the street from the WCU campus in Cullowhee. The system has two trailheads. One is located near the softball ﬁeld and picnic area on the main campus, east of N.C. 107. Trail users then travel through the pedestrian tunnel under N.C. 107 and access the trail on NCCAT property. The second trailhead is located at the parking lot of the Health and Human Sciences building. Bent Creek, Asheville Located near where N.C. 191 intersects the Blue Ridge Parkway and Interstate 26, this favorite among Asheville locals because of its proximity to this outdoors-loving city. Lots of hardpacked singletrack with very few technical sections, great place for beginner to intermediate riders and for children. www.mtbikewnc.com. Dupont State Park Located near Brevard, this has become one of the premier destinations in the region. 10,000 acres of trails, waterfalls, and rivers. Great spot with numerous trailheads. www.dupontforest.com.

Pisgah National Forest, near Brevard Hundreds of miles of trails for bikers, some of it among the most technical in the region. For information on speciﬁc trails and trailheads, visit www.mtbikewnc.com. Nantahala Outdoor Center, Bryson City The Nantahala Outdoor Center in the Nantahala Gorge has its own trail, which allows riders to try their hand at some technical maneuvering. The 4.5mile Flint Ridge Trail system was designed speciﬁcally for mountain bikers. It features technical riding as well as some rolling single-track. Directions: From Bryson City, go south on U.S. 74 for 12 miles and the NOC campus will be on the right. The highway will narrow to two lanes after about 8 miles. www.noc.com. Fontana Village, Robbinsville Fontana Village has closed due to COVID-19, but trail system is reportedly still open and website is still up. The trails are labeled and fairly well blazed. Mix and match from numerous options to make your own loop. You can get a good bit of climbing and long descents, plus technical rock gardens, stream crossings and log crossings on the 20-mile trail system that is among the best in the region. Directions: From Bryson City, take U.S. 74 southbound 8 miles past Bryson City. Turn right on N.C. 28. Go about 25 miles. www.fontanavillage.com/hiking.

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Outdoors+Recreation Bryson City teen joins Olympic team

Western North Carolina teenager Evy Leibfarth will represent the United States in the Summer Olympic Games in Tokyo this year after placing first in two Olympic Team Trials competitions in April. “Making the Olympic Team is a dream I’ve had since I was really young, and it’s so exciting that it’s becoming a reality,” said Leibfarth. “I’m so grateful and proud to be a part of Team USA and an amazing community of athletes who inspire me to be a better athlete and person!” At just 17 years old, Leibfarth took the top spot in both women’s kayak slalom and women’s canoe slalom during the trials, held April 12-14 at the U.S. National Whitewater Center in Charlotte, making history when she earned a place on the team for both events. Leibfarth will be the first U.S. woman to race in two Olympic whitewater slalom events, and the first U.S. woman to ever compete in an Olympic canoe race — Tokyo will be the first Olympic Games featuring a women’s canoe event. In 2019, she became the first woman to win two individual classes at the U.S. Team Trials, so when she did it again last week, she tied up her own record. Leibfarth was born in Sylva and resides in Bryson City, and she cut her teeth on the cool mountain waters of the Nantahala River. She learned to paddle as a 4-year-old and entered her first slalom race at the tender age of 7. Leibfarth comes by her passion honestly — her father is a former U.S. national team coach; her mother is a former raft guide and kayak instructor. As she grew, her performance surpassed all expectations. In 2019, Leibfarth won two medals — a silver and a bronze — during two World Cup events held in Europe, also ranking in the top 10 in three additional events. Those accomplishments made her the first U.S. woman to medal at any world paddling event since Rebecca Giddens won a silver medal at the 2004 Olympics, the youngest athlete of any gender or nationality to win a Canoe Slalom World Cup medal and the

“I’m so grateful and proud to be a part of Team USA and an amazing community of athletes who inspire me to be a better athlete and person!” — Evy Leibfarth

ﬁrst female paddler of any nationality to medal in a World Cup event at age 15, ever. “It’s completely mind blowing, I think for the entire world right now, what she’s done at her ﬁrst two world cups,” William Irving, president of Nantahala Outdoor Center, said in an interview at the time. In Tokyo, Leibfarth will have an even larger audience waiting for its mind to be blown. You can follow Leibfarth’s journey at www.goevy.com.

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Jump right in

The Rivers

From mild to wild, paddlers can ﬁnd whatever kind of river experience they’re looking for in the mountains of Western North Carolina.

Nantahala The Nantahala River in Swain and Macon counties has been called “every man’s river.” It is an 8-mile run of basically Class II rapids (19 of them) with Class III Nantahala Falls waiting at the end. There is a slalom course on the river at the Nantahala Outdoor Center as well as “the wave” for playboaters. It is a wonderful river for rafting and beginner kayakers. Several outﬁtters on the river allow raft rentals without guides, and they’ll also shuttle you to the put-in.

The area around Western North Carolina has earned a reputation as one of the premier whitewater regions in the country, for many reasons. In addition to rafting becoming one of the top activities sought by visitors to the area, the region has become a magnet for top kayakers and white water canoers. The Nantahala Outdoor Center located in the Nantahala Gorge south of Bryson City is the leader of the rafting and paddling industry in the region. The Nantahala Outdoor Center is more than an outﬁtter and guide companybut a support network for the many world class paddlers — including members of current and past U.S. Olympic paddling team and the World Cup champions — that come here to train and live. Many of them work for NOC. The center hosts several top competitions each year that draws international paddlers. NOC photo

Tuckasegee For beginners, tubers and those looking for a leisurely river trip, there is the Tuckasegee River in Jackson and Swain counties. There are ﬁve sections, almost 40 miles of navigable waterway from the tiny community of Tuckaseigee to Bryson City. The Tuck is great for family outings. Calmer water allows for a minimum weight requirement of 40 pounds.

Other rivers in the region: French Broad The French Broad River through Buncombe and Madison counties offers opportunities from flat water to waves for surfers to the class IV Frank Bell’s rapids. The most popular run on the French Broad is section nine from Barnard to Hot Springs. There is also a kayakers’ playground at the Ledges Park in Asheville. Chattooga The Chattooga River winds up in Lake Tugaloo. This scenic, free-flowing river offers a variety of whitewater experiences. Section II from N.C. 28 to Earl’s Ford is basically Class II with one Class III rapids, Bull Shoals. Section III begins at Earl’s Ford and runs 10 miles to U.S. 76. There are six rapids on this section ending with Bull Sluice, which is class IV or V depending on water level. Section IV is eight miles, from U.S. 76 to Lake Tugaloo. This section includes the difficult and potentially treacherous Woodall Shoals and finishes with “Five Falls;” First Falls, Corkscrew, Crack in the Rock, Jawbone and Sock.Em.Dog.

The NOC has also solidiﬁed its reputation as one of the top teaching centers in the country. It has a “Rapid Progression, Learn-to-Kayak guarantee” that promises those who sign up will learn to kayak. If the boater does not feel they have mastered all the techniques necessary to feel comfortable, they are allowed to come back for additional training at no extra expense. Rafters should consider several factors before embarking on a trip. • Are you looking for a mild trip or a wild ride? • How long do you want to be on the river? • Are their any children in you party, and how much do they weigh? • How comfortable are the members of your party in the water should they take a fall out of the raft? These are questions you should have at least partially answered for before contacting a rafting company. Many of the raft companies operate their own lodging facilities, from campgrounds and rustic cabins by the river to luxury cabin rentals secluded in the woods. Expect $10 to $30 per person for rafting trips depending on the trip and how much is included, such as guided versus self-guided and what type of water craft you’re traveling in.

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Nolichucky One of the most scenic paddles in the region would be the Nolichucky. Born out of the confluence of the Toe and Cane rivers, the first few miles of the Nolichucky are full of big water and challenging rapids. The run from Poplar to Erwin, Tenn., is eight.and.a.half miles of Class III and IV rapids, provided the river is up. The Nolichucky is not dam controlled and is dependent on rainfall. Pigeon The Pigeon has scheduled releases from Memorial Day weekend through Labor Day, with Class III and IV rapids. It has become a popular whitewater trip for paddlers and rafters in recent years, providing a shorter but exciting trip. A number of outfitters are located in Hartford, Tennessee. Ocoee The Ocoee is the furthest west of the whitewater rivers, flowing through a beautiful gorge in East Tennessee. Rafters must be at least 12 years old to go on either the upper or lower Ocoee, and it has Class III and IV rapids for the entire ride.

Outdoors+Recreation

GSMNP photo

The Great Smoky Mountains National Park The Great Smoky Mountains National Park has an amazing array of mini-ecosystems within its borders — from peaks over 6,000 feet to low valleys, from moist densely forested coves to dry meadows. A walk from mountain base to peak compares with traveling 1,250 miles north. Several resident plants and animals live only in the Smokies. The park has more than 100 species of trees and 4,000 species of plants. Some people say if you throw a rock and then trace its path, you’re likely to walk by at least 30 diﬀerent kinds of trees. The Great Smoky Mountains National Park encompasses more than 500,000 acres, making it the largest national park in the East

PARK HIGHLIGHTS Oconaluftee Visitor Center

keep milk and butter cool, and sundry buildings for storing the food they raised, from corn cribs to apple houses to smoke houses. The outhouse is a guaranteed eye-opener for kids. Located at the entrance to the park on U.S. 441 just north of Cherokee.

Along with knowledgeable rangers who can help you plan your time in the park, fabulous exhibits will take you back in time among the early settlers and Cherokee who called these mountains home. The visitor center chronicles the culture and history of the Smokies, from exhibits on the Civil War in the Smokies to moonshine making. Located on U.S. 441 at the North Carolina entrance to the park, north of Cherokee and near the terminus of the Blue Ridge Parkway. 828.497.1904.

Deep Creek

Mountain Farm Museum

Mingus Mill

This stroll through an historic Appalachian farm offers a window on the ingenuity and self-reliance of early mountain people and Cherokee. A blacksmith shop to make everything from barn door hinges to horseshoes, a spring house to

The rumble of mill stones, the whistle of corn meal sliding down the wooden shoot, the slapslap-slap of water falling over the giant paddle wheel. Explore this historic site just one mile from the park entrance on U.S. 441 north of Cherokee.

Enjoy a little of everything at Deep Creek. Hiking to waterfalls, picnicking, mountain biking, camping and what Deep Creek is famous for: tubing. Several outfitters rent inner tubes for just a few dollars to float all day in the creek. This is a fantastic place to visit for a few hours because you can do so many different activities without having to go to different places. If you are in the Bryson City area, treat yourself to a visit.

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Vehicle-free Wednesdays Vehicle-free Wednesdays at Cades Cove in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park will provide cyclists and pedestrians the chance to enjoy this popular area without battling cars and motorcycles. No motorized vehicles will be allowed on Cades Cove Loop Road on Wednesdays through Sept. 1, and non-motorized users are encouraged to spread out use throughout the day by planning afternoon and early evening visits. Limited on-site parking often ﬁlls to capacity during the early morning hours. This summer, the park expects to launch new tools to avoid these parking issues. Tools will include information systems that allow

visitors to find out if parking lots are full before entering the park and shuttles to bring people from Townsend to Cades Cove. The park piloted the vehicle-free Wednesday program last year, and after receiving generally positive feedback from visitors, managers decided to continue it this year. In 2021, staff will manage on-site parking to improve visitor safety, minimize impacts to campground operations and reduce roadside parking on nondurable surfaces. By state law, all cyclists 16 and under must wear a helmet, and helmet use is encouraged for riders of all ages. Bicycle rentals are available at the campground store near Cades Cove Campground on a first-come, first-served basis during summer and fall. 865.448.9034.

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A paved half-mile trail leads to a soaring lookout tower atop the highest peak in the Smokies. At 6,643 feet, the panoramic view oﬀers spectacular scenery and is one of the best examples of the region’s famed blue mountain ridges marching endlessly across the horizon. The tower features a spiraling 375-foot ramp to the top.

Cataloochee Valley History and nature intersect in this picturesque meadow, a long, narrow valley cradled by mountains on all sides. An elk herd has been re-introduced into the park and calls the valley home. Cataloochee Val-

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ley is also home to a former mountain settlement, with intact farm houses, churches, schoolhouse and cemeteries that can be toured by car and short walks. Pick up an interpretive brochure at the campground on the left after you get down to the valley ﬂoor that describes the historic buildings.

Big Creek This relatively isolated area is a favorite of locals, with a campground, bathroom, picnic area and jumping oﬀ point for some great hikes into the Smokies, including the all-day hike up to Mount Cammerer look-out tower. One of the coldest, clearest swimming holes in the Smokies — aptly named Midnight Hole — is a short 1-mile-hike up the wide Big Creek Trail.

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Outdoors+Recreation Blue Ridge Parkway serves up the best of the mountains

Michael E. Gouge photo blueridgemotorcyclingmagazine.com

he Blue Ridge Parkway is a National Parkway and All-American Road that winds for 469 miles from the southern end of Shenandoah National Park’s Skyline Drive in Virginia to U.S. 441 at Oconaluftee in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park near Cherokee. It’s hard to get lost on the Blue Ridge Parkway. It only goes in two directions — north or south. Short, wooden posts along the edge of the road mark off each mile — the entire 469-mile length of the Parkway — making it easy to know exactly where you are. The milemarker is listed for the recommended stops on the Parkway below, and should be easy to find by watching the mileposts. Hint: the numbers get bigger as you go south, so the end of the Parkway in Cherokee is mile 469. The Parkway boasts more than 200 overlooks and more than 100 trails. The local section of the Parkway runs from the southern end in Oconaluftee to the Pisgah Inn on the Haywood/Transylvania County line. Along this stretch of scenic road you’ll find highlights such as the Parkway’s highest elevation overlook at Richland Balsam (6,053 feet), views of Cold Mountain made famous by author Charles Frazier, Waterrock Knob and Oconaluftee Visitors Centers, and Devil’s Courthouse Trail. The Parkway is made for exploring. Here are few suggested highlights in our region, but feel free to ignore them. It’s all about the journey, not the destination.

SELECTED STOPS Waterrock Knob Visitors Center, milemarker 451 A must for Parkway travelers. Stop here to get recommendations from park rangers on things to do and see, plus pick up a free Parkway map and browse the bookstore. Views are fabulous if you are looking for a picnic spot. Also, there is a one-mile hike to the summit of Waterrock Knob. Interesting fact: the visitor center is powered by solar panels. Richland Balsam, milemarker 432 The views are great all along the Parkway, but there’s even a milestone achievement available for those don’t want to hike but prefer just getting out of their car to take a picture, enjoy the view, or have a picnic. Just about halfway between the Balsam Gap (U.S. 23-74) and N.C. 215 entrance to the Parkway, near milepost 432, is the Parkway’s highest point (6,053 feet), which is marked with a large sign and a great overlook. Just a mile away at milepost

431 is the Richland-Balsam Self-Guiding Trail, which is just 1-mile long and meanders through a sprucefir forest. You’ll top out at an elevation of 6,410 feet, the 10th highest peak in the Eastern U.S. Devil’s Courthouse, milemarker 422 This 1-mile round-trip trail leads to the top of stunning rock formation, a giant pedestal that seems to rise up magically from the mountains around it and makes you feel like you’re on top of the world looking out. Despite the sheer drop off all around you, rock walls provide a sense of safety — just don’t hop over them or let kids climb on the edge. Ecologically, visitors should stay off the cliff face, which is home to peregrine falcons and endangered rock-clinging lichens and plant life. The trail is steep but paved, making it accessible to anyone if you take it slow and steady. Sam’s Knob, milemarker 420 Stellar hiking trails lead into the Shining Rock Wilderness, passing over grassy balds, rock outcrops, high elevation streams and fir forests. The

area is riddled with trails, some of which extend for miles into the Shining Rock Wilderness, so if you don’t have a map, watch the way you came carefully. To reach the parking area, turn down a gravel forest service road. Upper Falls at Graveyard Fields, milemarker 419 A high-elevation bowl home to two waterfalls, a swimming hole and crystal clear rocky stream. Unlike the dense forests that engulf most hiking trails in the Smokies, this area is deﬁned by open meadows. Mt. Pisgah (5,749 feet) Located near milepost 408, this mountain with the Biblical name used to be part of the George Vanderbilt Estate (who created the Biltmore Estate). A parking area is well marked, and the hike is only about a mile but it is relatively strenuous to the platform atop the mountain. Once there, however, the 360-degree views are fabulous. Nearby campground and one of the only restaurants on the Parkway at the Pisgah Inn.

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Blue Ridge Parkway welcomes new superintendent

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Tracy Swartout was named the superintendent for the Blue Ridge Parkway in May 2021. Swartout comes to the job with 21 years of NPS experience under her belt. Since 2012, she has served as deputy superintendent of Mount Rainier National Park in Washington, where she was responsible for operations and leadership at the 250,000-acre national park, which includes designated wilderness, six aﬃliated Native American tribes and a complex National Historic Landmark District. A native of Columbia, South Carolina, Swartout holds a bachTracy Swartout elor’s degree in geography from the University of South Carolina as well as a masters degree in environmental studies from the University of Waterloo in Canada. She has completed postgraduate work in environmental management and coastal geology at Duke University and completed the U.S. Department of Agriculture’s executive leadership program. Prior to her move out west, she served as superintendent of Congaree National Park in South Carolina and was named the southeast region’s Superintendent of the Year in 2012. Her early NPS career also includes seven years on the NPS Business Management Group in Washington, D.C., during which she recruited, hired and mentored teams to develop business plans for more than 75 parks, including the Parkway. Before joining the Park Service, she worked for the National Parks Conservation association. “Throughout my life, the Blue Ridge Parkway has played a prominent role, with some of my most treasured memories being shaped along that winding road and in the national parks and communities beyond,” she said. “The area’s landscape, arts, music and culture are deeply meaningful for me.” Outside of work, Swartout enjoys spending time outdoors with family and friends, quilting, pottery and live music. She and her husband will move to the Asheville area this June, along with their children and two dogs.

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Outdoors+Recreation Bridal Veil Falls Bridal Veil Falls is easy to get to and impossible to miss. If you are headed west from Highlands through the Cullasaja Gorge on U.S. 64, the falls will go over a small pull oﬀ road on the right. The falls isn’t nearly as impressive as the other falls in the Gorge, but after all, how often do you get the chance to drive your car under a waterfall? Bridal Veil Falls is 2.3 miles west of Highlands on U.S. 64. You’ll see a pull oﬀ road on the right side of U.S. 64 under the falls.

Dry Falls Dry Falls is one of the most popular waterfalls in Western North Carolina and an easy stop if you are seeing the other falls on U.S. 64 through the Cullasaja Gorge. Visitors can walk behind the falls and to the other side. The powerful waterfall is about 65 feet tall. Dry Falls is in between Quarry Falls and Bridal Veil Falls about three miles west of Highlands on U.S. 64. There’s a small parking area on the left if you are headed west. Signs mark the falls on both sides of the road. If you come on a Saturday during peak tourist season, a parking space will be hard to come by. The trail to the falls is short with some steps. Soco Falls. Courtesy Swain TDA

Cullasaja Falls The spiritual appeal of waterfalls

Whether one is an avid outdoorsman or an occasional hiker, there is something special about making a gorgeous waterfall the destination for a hike. Among the Cherokee Indians, rivers were known as “The Long Man” and special ceremonies were often held at waterfalls. The following waterfalls are just a few of the more popular falls in the region.

Cullasaja Falls is the final waterfall on the Cullasaja River before leaving the Gorge. The falls, a 200-foot cascade, is powerful and beautiful. You can get a good view of it from the road, but it would be difficult to get to the base. The downside to Cullasaja Falls is that the pull off is small and is a dangerous place for traffic to stop. Cullasaja Falls is about two and a half miles west of Quarry Falls on U.S. 64.The pull off is small and at a sharp curve. The small pull off fills up quickly during peak tourism days. Heading west, the pull off is on the left side of the road.

Mingo Falls On the Qualla Indian Reservation in Cherokee, you’ll ﬁnd the popular Mingo Falls. A small creek falls about 150 feet over mossy rocks. Access to the falls is good – if you can handle lots of steps. A small bridge goes across the creek, giving hikers a face on view of the falls. Coming from Cherokee, head north on U.S. 441. You’ll turn right onto Acquoni Road. There will be signs telling you to turn there for Big Cove Road. In about 0.1 mile, turn left on to Big Cove Road. Again you’ll see signs pointing to Big Cove Road. Drive about 5 miles and turn right into Mingo

Falls Campground. The parking area is straight ahead. The trail starts there, goes up a lot of stairs, levels out and comes to a bridge overlooking the falls. The trail is about 265 yards.

Soco Falls Soco Falls is one of the closest large falls to Waynesville. Two creeks flow over steep rock cascades at a right angle from each other. There’s a wooden platform that faces the higher of the two falls. The other falls is nearly impossible to see face on without going down to the base of the falls. There's a really steep dirt incline that goes down there without a lot to hold on to. From Waynesville, drive north on U.S. 19. You’ll pass under the Blue Ridge Parkway. After passing the Blue Ridge Parkway, drive 1.4 miles to a pull off on the left. At the corner before the pull off you want, you’ll see a large gravel pull off. This is actually a private driveway and not the way to Soco Falls. A sign on the right side of the road will tell you to go another half mile. Find a pull off with a guardrail. A short, steep path goes down between the guardrails. Follow the trail, which leads to a wooden platform. The trail beyond the platform is steeper and more difficult but will take you to the top of one of the falls. A dirt incline leads to the bottom of the falls that you’d have to slide down. It looks like it would be a challenge to get back up.

Midnight Hole There’s not much of a waterfall at Midnight Hole, but if you’re looking for a good place to jump in the water, this is it. Midnight Hole is very popular and crowded at times. There’s a rope that goes up one of the boulders so swimmers can jump oﬀ the rocks into the pool. The water is cold and crystal clear and feels wonderful after a hike on a hot, muggy afternoon. Take I-40 Exit 451 in Tennessee. It will be the ﬁrst exit after you cross the state line. Stay left after crossing the Pigeon River and follow the road 2 miles. You’ll drive by a power plant and community park. You’ll come to a stop sign at an intersection. Go straight through the intersection and enter the Big Creek section of the Great Smoky Mountains National Park. Follow the gravel road 0.8 miles to a picnic area and campground entrance. From the parking area, walk back up the road. You’ll see a sign on the left for the trailhead. The hike to Midnight Hole is about 1.5 miles. Stay on the main path and the hole is on the left. The hike is easy. Horses and their riders also frequent the trail.

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Max Patch. Margaret Hester photo

Higher calling: Viewpoints in WNC

Why do we seek the high places? The easiest explanation for going to the mountains is for the scenery. Even so, there must be something ingrained in the human experience that draws us to lofty summits and places where we can look out over the landscape. The reasons vary from the practical to the spiritual. High places represent safety and security. Elevated vantage points have been used throughout history for human survival. From the heights, an approaching enemy can be detected from a long distance, or an attack more easily fended oﬀ. A path through unknown territory might be scouted out as waterways and passes can all be seen better from a high perch. Hunters are better able

spot herds of animals from an overlook. Migratory animals often use mountain ridges to travel long distances. Surely the Cherokee utilized ridge tops in their network of trails connecting villages and hunting grounds. There is something about the Appalachians that evokes a deep emotional response in most folks. When you are able to get an encompassing view of your surroundings,

you automatically know more about your place in the world. For many, this serves to stimulate the curiosity to learn about nature or to seek wilderness. Others find the experience to be humbling, revealing the relative insignificance of the individual in the vastness of creation. The religious and spiritual connection with natural heights is easily explained in the context of being closer to Heaven, the gods and spirits. On Mount Sinai, God presented Moses with the Ten Commandments and on Mount Pisgah, Moses got a glimpse of the Promised Land. Native Americans attached sacred significance to high places. The Incas performed human sacrifice on sacred peaks in the Andes. Monks of various Eastern religions have built almost inaccessible monasteries on high precipices. At times, mountain travel involves personal challenge and extraordinary risk. When asked why he wanted to climb Mount. Everest, George Mallory replied, “Because it is there.” Whether Mallory reached the sum-

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Hiking trails in Western North Carolina

With a quiet step you stand a great chance of seeing some of the multitude of wildlife Western North Carolina has to oﬀer. There are hikes for all kinds — climbs along the rocks to a high mountain waterfalls, casual strolls to expansive mountain views, all-day treks out into the wilderness and brisk jaunts to perfect picnic places. Wherever you go, trying making part of your hike a “soft walk.” Tread quietly and use your senses to experience the world around you without talking. If you see something worth pointing out, communicate without speech. The process will help you tune in to nature and how it communicates with us. When hiking, you know best what you’re looking for and what you’re capable of — injuries happen when you take on too much or get too tired. Find a hike that suits your tastes and skills.

Easy Panthertown Valley Panthertown Valley is a 6,700-acre area in the Nantahala National Forest. It's been nicknamed “the Yosemite of the East” and is home to granite domes, waterfalls, valley floors and rare high altitude bogs, as well as the headwaters for Greenland and Panthertown Creeks and the East Fork of the Tuckasegee River. Trails abound and primitive overnight camping and catch-and-release fishing is allowed. Horsepasture River Trail This out and back 3-mile hike in Sapphire offers outstanding view of four large waterfalls and good camping along the way. The trail can be a little gnarly. Use extreme caution when viewing waterfalls, particularly Rainbow Falls, which can be viewed from the top. Falls are slippery and that closer look just isn’t worth the type of injuries that may occur. Boogerman Trail This 3.8-mile loop hike in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park takes you past old growth hemlocks and Robert “Booger” Palmer’s home place (hence the name). There’s plenty of creek views and wildflowers. Nealry a mile in, you’ll see a sign for

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Boogerman Trail. To avoid a relentless and steep climb, continue further up Caldwell Fork Trail and take the upper loop of Boogerman Trail. The hike begins near the Cataloochee campground. Wayah Bald Located near Franklin in Macon County, this paved trail suitable for the handicapped leads to the Wayah Bald lookout tower, which is a National Historic Landmark oﬀering breathtaking, panoramic views of the area. The Appalachian Trail and Bartram Trail intersect at the tower. Joyce Kilmer Memorial Trail Joyce Kilmer Forest, the last remnant of virgin forest in the Southern Appalachians, oﬀers a spectacular 2-mile loop trail. Near Robbinsville.

Medium Hemphill Bald The Loop hike at Hemphill Bald is 13.7 miles in total, but just 4.7 miles in will get you to the Bald. The bald was named after a pioneer family. Tsali Recreation Area Located in Graham County the Tsali Recreation Area is known for its excellent trails. Hikers, bikers and horses all must share, but a bike/horse usage schedule keeps down the melee. Hikers may use any trail at any time. The Thompson Loop and Mouse Branch Looop are billed as easy to moderate and good for families. Looking Glass Rock This 6-mile hike through the Pisgah National Forest travels ﬁrst through small cove, then steeply up the backside of Looking Glass Rock through many switchbacks, hardwood forests, Carolina hemlocks.

At the top of the trail there are cliﬀs providing views of Pisgah Ridge from Mount Pisgah toward the Shining Rock/Black Balsam Area and the valleys below.

Hard Shining Rock Wilderness Area Shining Rock became one of the original components of the Wilderness System in September 1964. A series of high ridges extends east and west from the north-south oriented Shining Rock Ledge. There are three main access points for trails within this Wilderness. First and foremost is the Black Balsam area near the Blue Ridge Parkway. Although this is not part of the Wilderness itself, The Art Loeb (moderate) and Ivestor Gap (easy) trails lead into the wilderness area from here. Mount Sterling Gap Trail This low ridge trail begins at Mount Sterling Gap on Cataloochee-Big Creek Road. It’s only 2.8 miles to the firetower, but is rated extremely strenuous because of a 2,000-foot climb in 2.3 miles along an old jeep trail to the ridge just below the firetower. This firetower is one of three remaining in the Park. There are several excellent lookouts from the trail prior to reaching the main ridge, but the view from the tower is unequalled in the Park. Fontana to Wesser This 30-mile hike along the Appalachian Trails is full of ups and downs. There are shelters along the way, and in the end you’ll find yourself at the Nantahala Outdoor Center. Or do the hike in reverse and end at Fontana Dam. To learn more about the Appalachian Trail visit www.appalachiantrail.org. (Some hike recommendations courtesy of Danny Bernstein, author of Hiking the Carolina Mountains.)

Outdoors+Recreation right on N.C. 28. Tsali is about ﬁve minutes down the road. Once there, the Mouse Branch, Right and Left loops all have great overlooks. According Timm Muth, author Mountain Biking North Carolina, the Mouse Branch overlook 4.5 miles into that loop is the most stunning. On the Right it’s Windy Gap Overlook and the overlook on the Left trail isn’t named. All are fabulous.

The view from Mt. LeConte. Courtesy Swain TDA

Mount LeConte (6,643 feet)

mit in 1924 is still in question, but the same adventurous spirit still drives many to climb the most difficult mountains. Even in Western North Carolina, the most remote peaks require no small amount of effort to reach. “Peakbagging” is the sport of getting to the top of as many peaks as possible. Hiking up a mountain is great exercise. The air is less dense and flows easily in and out of your lungs, but the lower concentration of oxygen means greater oxygen debt during physical activity. Eventually, the body becomes more efficient and compensates. Unfortunately, summer hikers in the Smokies may have difficulty with respiration due to the low oxy-

SELECT PEAKS

Tsali’s Fontana Lake overlooks (2,000 feet plus)

Mount Pisgah (5,749 feet)

If you’re a mountain biker, too often you are in the trees or too dog tired after a climb to enjoy the views, but there are several in Tsali that are worth getting oﬀ your bike and using as a rest break, photo-op or both. All of these are just above 2,000 feet in elevation, but because of the lake’s backdrop they make for stunning views. Tsali Recreation Area is located 12 miles west of Bryson City in the Nantahala National Forest. Go west on U.S. 74 and turn

Located near milepost 408, this mountain with the Biblical name used to be part of the George Vanderbilt Estate (who created the Biltmore Estate). A parking area is well marked, and the hike is only about a mile but it is relatively strenuous to the platform atop the mountain. Once there, however, the 360-degree views are fabulous.

gen density combined with high ozone levels caused by pollution from autos and power plants. Visiting the high places can even be a social event. In Japan, large numbers of hikers may crowd a summit trail. The camaraderie of sharing the journey and the view with good friends or a loved one is deﬁnitely a bonding experience and often requires cooperation to get there. On the other hand, the sense of solitude one experiences when standing alone on a lofty wilderness summit is diﬃcult to describe or explain. (Ed Kelley is a photographer, musician and outdoorsman who lives in Waynesville.)

The vistas are endless in the Smokies, but getting to the top of this mountain has the added advantage of being to check out LeConte Lodge, the only commercial lodging facility in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park. There are five trails to the lodge, the shortest and steepest being Alum Cave Trail at 5.5 miles, which a hiker in good condition can do in approximately four hours. None of these trails can be considered a stroll and you occasionally encounter ice and snow as late as May or as early as October. The other trails are Rainbow Falls and Trillium Gap, each 6.5 miles, a hike of about five hours; Bullhead at 7.2 miles and about five hours; and Boulevard, 8 miles and about 5.5 hours. Parking is available at the start of each trail. Once at the top signs lead to the best overlooks.

Wayah Bald (5,342 feet) The Nantahala Mountains are not as tall as the Smokies, but the views are every bit as stunning. This is a land of 4,000- and 5,000-foot mountains in one of the region’s wildest areas. Follow State Route 1310 out of Franklin until you pass Wayah Crest, where there is a camping area. A forest service road, with signs, leads to the parking area at Wayah Bald, where there is an old Civilian Conservation Corps ﬁretower made of stone. Views from the platform are wonderful, and the Appalachian Trail passes right by.

Max Patch (4,629 feet) This may be the most scenic bald in the Smokies as well as one of the most accessible. From the top, the 360-degree views, the sheer vastness of the bald (which is mowed by the Forest Service) and the beauty is well worth the trip. Since the trail to the parking area is about 0.25 miles max, it’s a great place to picnic and watch the sunset. Take Exit 7, the Harmon Den Exit, oﬀ Interstate 40 and turn right oﬀ the exit onto Cold Springs Creek Road. The dirt road goes into Pisgah National Forest. Stay on the main road for several miles until you come to a sign for Max Patch. It is a left-hand turn. Stay on the road until you come to a parking area with an unobstructed view of the bald. Follow the trail to the top of the bald and it intersects with the Appalachian Trail.

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Upcoming Events Ongoing Events • First/Third Thursdays — Community music jam, Bryson City. www.fontanalib.org • Fridays, Memorial Day to Labor Day — Concerts on the Creek, Sylva. www.mountainlovers.com • Fridays, Memorial Day to September — Groovin’ on the Green, Cashiers. www.visitcashiersvalley.com • Fridays, Memorial Day to Early September — Concerts on the Square, Hayesville. www.cccra-nc.org • Fridays, Memorial Day to Late October — Movies on Everett, Bryson City. www.greatsmokies.com • First Friday of the Month — Art After Dark, Waynesville. Evening stroll of galleries, restaurants and breweries in downtown. www.downtownwaynesville.com • First Friday of the Month — Art Walk, Murphy. Stroll downtown art galleries, restaurants and shops.. www.cherokeecountychamber.com

• Friday-Saturday, Memorial Day to Late October — Cherokee Bonﬁre & Storytelling. www.visitcherokeenc.com • Friday-Saturday, Memorial Day to Late October — Street Tunes, Bryson City. www.greatsmokies.com • Saturdays, Memorial Day to Mid-October — Pickin’ on the Square, Franklin. www.franklin-chamber.com • Monday-Saturday, Late May to Mid-August — Unto These Hills outdoor drama, Cherokee. www.cherokeehistorical.org • Friday-Saturday, Late May to Labor Day — Music on the River, Cherokee. www.visitcherokeenc.com • Fridays, Early June to Labor Day — Pickin’ in the Park, Canton. www.cantonnc.com • Mid-June to October — Friday Night Live, Highlands. www.highlandschamber.org • Late June to Labor Day — Saturdays on Pine concert series, Highlands. www.highlandschamber.org

Independence Day in the Smokies • Canton Fourth of July Celebration www.cantonnc.com • Stars & Strips Celebration, Waynesville www.downtownwaynesville.com • Red White & Boom, Maggie Valley www.maggievalley.org • Fourth of July Celebration, Sylva www.mountainlovers.com • Freedom Fest, Bryson City www.greatsmokies.com • 4th of July Parade/Fireworks Celebration, Franklin www.franklin-chamber.com • 4th of July Fireworks Show, Cherokee www.nc-cherokee.com • Fourth of July Celebration, Cashiers www.cashiers411.com • Fourth of July Celebration, Andrews www.visitcherokeecountync.com • Independence Day Celebration, Highlands www.highlandsinfo.com • Independence Day Fireworks, Murphy www.visitcherokeecountync.com • Independence Day Parade/Celebration, Hayesville www.ncmtnchamber.com • Sapphire Valley Yankee Doodle Dandy Day www.sapphirevalley.com • Fourth of July Celebration, Fontana Village www.fontanavillage.com

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