August 16, 2016

VOLUME 102 • ISSUE 2

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AUGUST 16, 2016

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Weekly CELEBRATING 100 YEARS 1915 - 2015

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OPINION

NEWS

Challenges first-years will face

Fire destroys Goff’s near campus

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NEWS

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Photo by SMU Student Transitions and Orientation Facebook page

The Class of 2019 gather for Candlelight, a Mustang Corral tradition that occurs before the start of the academic semester.

Residential Commons system results in new move-in process and Mustang Corral changes JACQUELYN ELIAS Online Editor jelias@smu.edu For 26 years, incoming Mustangs have had their first tastes of SMU through Mustang Corral, and on Aug. 17, a new generation of world changers will experience some of the same traditions as generations before them.

Despite the long tradition, the introduction of the new Residential Commons model has inherently changed the way Corral ran, including Corral lasting for five days as part of orientation for first-year and transfer students, with each student engaging with other residents from their Commons. These days encompass activities such as move-in, Camp Corral and Convocation.

“It helps you open yourself up,” SMU junior and second-year Armstrong Corral guide Shelby Hill said.

This year, attendees are welcome on campus Aug. 17 for move-in. Dozens of volunteers will line Bush Ave. and the Boulevard with laundry carts in hand to unload the vehicles of incoming students, creating a drive-through drop-off system.

Parents will park their vehicles and meet students at their designated Commons, waiting to be checked in and escorted to their rooms.

From this initial welcome, later in the

evening students will then attend Kick-Off with their class as well as Home Sweet Home in each of their Commons. Each Commons is asked to prepare a tradition to acclimate students to their culture such as the annual Crum/Armstrong water balloon fight.

The next day, students split into groups led by SMU faculty members to attend one of 24 Dallas sites such as the Texas Theater or Perot Museum of Nature & Science for an activity called Discover Dallas. Following this, students then leave for the one-night, two-day Camp Corral, which was shortened last year.

On Thursday and Friday, students are formed into smaller groups called Round Up Groups (RUG) composed of 12 to 15 students within their Commons, which are led by Mustang Corral guides. Last semester, Corral guides underwent and application and interview process to be selected as a representative of their residential community.

AARO orientation leaders also serve as a representative of each Commons and serve as a point of contact for Corral guides.

“A lot of people joke about how they bond over how terrible they think Corral is, which is why I want to be a guide,” SMU junior and second-year Loyd Corral guide Sophi Farid said. “My best friends now happened to be in my RUG group then, and while I don’t necessarily want to encourage my RUG

group to be best friends, I do want them to enjoy being at camp and form true friendships.”

At the end of Camp Corral, students experience the traditional candlelight ceremony with their peers, offering time for older students to reflect on their SMU experience and share advice.

Programs continue throughout Saturday and Sunday with the traditional class photo on Dallas

Hall Lawn and Night at the Club. Corral After Hours, a program focused on keeping students on campus after Corral, will also continue for Corral 2016. Last year during this event a roller-skating rink and food trucks outside of Moody Coliseum.

Corral then ends with Convocation and Rotunda Passage on Sunday with this year’s ceremony marking SMU’s 102nd Opening Convocation.

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NEWS

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SMU, Dallas community celebrates life of Officer McCullers at memorial service JACQUELYN ELIAS Online Editor jelias@smu.edu A sobering silence filled McFarlin Auditorium as SMU Police Officer Mark McCullers’ headshot faded onto the screen behind the stage and Rev. Dr. Stephen Rankin stood at the podium.

The uncomfortable yet fitting silence continued for several seconds as the honor officers slowly marched to salute the portrait of Officer McCullers situated below the stage.

The crowd watched in unity, remembering and celebrating a man whose life was taken just weeks before.

According to Highland Park Department of Public Safety report, Officer McCullers was “working as a private security guard at a construction site when he and his car were swept away by high water” near Turtle Creek in Highland Park.

This salute on Thursday, July 28 marked the

Jacquelyn Elias/ SMU CAMPUS WEEKLY

Officers lead the family of Officer McCullers down the stairs of McFarlin Auditorium for the military honors ceremony.

beginning of Officer McCullers’ memorial service, bringing hundreds of family members, friends, students and uniformed officers to the Hilltop.

The service was split into two parts with the first half filled with prayers and speeches from many who had shared in Officer McCullers’ life.

The second half took place outside the auditorium with traditional military honors and a 21-gun salute.

SMU Police Chief Richard Shafer spoke to Officer McCullers’ career successes, including his nine years in the Marines and time serving the Bush Library.

Shafer spoke of his conversations with McCullers when he expressed his goal to become an SMU police officer.

Shafer stated McCullers entered the Eastfield Police Academy to then be hired

by SMU in February 2015.

McCullers’ days then consisted of keeping students safe in any given situation.

McCullers received an honor in November for expertly handling a difficult situation in one of the Residential Commons.

Shafer also drew attention to Officer McCullers’ boots at the foot of the stage, which were cleanly polished.

Shafer joked the SMU police department knew when Officer McCullers was on

duty due to the shine from his always polished boots.

Tiffany McCullers, McCullers’ widow, then spoke to Officer McCullers’ motivations and intense love for his six children and delivered a powerful remark challenging those who loved Mark to then go and “make their mark” on the world.

The memorial service lasted more than an hour with tributes from SMU President R. Gerald Turner as well as Rev. Dr. Stephen Rankin.

After the service in McFarlin Auditorium, attendees processed outside as officers folded the American flag and presented it to McCullers’ wife as well as shooting three sets of seven rifle shots. Nearly a hundred officers and first responders lined McFarlin Boulevard to show respect for their fallen colleague.

Throughout the day of the funeral, an SMU police vehicle was stationed at the top of the boulevard adorned with notes of support from the community.

Earlier in the week, students had lined the boulevard with blue ribbons in memory of Officer McCullers.

Professor Chris Coats led the project, utilizing SMU Meadows students to wrap long ribbons around 50 trees on campus to honor Officer McCullers and the Dallas Police Department and DART officers who died July 7 in the Downtown Dallas police ambush.

Photo by Jessika Roude

Outside McFarlin Auditorium, officers honored Officer McCullers with a traditional military honor and a 21-gun salute.

Tuesday, August 16, 2016 | 5

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ARTS & LIFE

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Musician Morgan Myles speaks about her sound, touring troubles RILEY COVEN Arts & Life Editor rcoven@smu.edu Morgan Myles, an upand-coming country music artist recently visited Dallas’ Prophet Bar. After releasing her first EP, “Miss Morgan Myles,” the country crooner began a nationwide tour to bring her soulful sound to different cities across America. Opening for some incredible acts as well as making the stage her own, The SMU Campus Weekly was lucky enough to sit down with Myles about her music and more.

SMU Campus Weekly: What originally got you into music and made you want to make a career out of it?

Morgan Myles: I’ve always been able to sing since I was a little girl and it’s just something I was really passionate about and there weren’t any musical people in my family, so I just kind of have a talent that my parents really got behind. I started taking piano lessons, which led to being in musicals and dance and then guitar and it’s just what made me happy. I think my parents saw that was really what lit my soul on fire and I continued to do it.

SMUCW: Was it weird being the first one in your family to follow that path?

MM: No, not really, because there was, again, this talent that no one had heard before in our family– so it was kind of like a calling and my parents were never the type to be like, “We really just think this isn’t a very good path.”

forward to?

MM: We just played Country USA and that was really cool because it was a really big festival and that was Little Big Town and it was an amazing event. But, I’m really looking forward to this week because we’re playing these really cool venues. It’s just really cool because I Photo by Morgan Myles know I’ll have a great crowd Country singer Morgan Myles. because of Corey and I know They actually were more we’re going to have a really persuading me to follow cool venue. my dreams versus seeking a SMUCW: Is it fun being real job. out on the road, do you like SMUCW: Are you to tour? working on an album?

MM: Yeah, it is. We’ve MM: We actually did had some obstacles in the a full album. We chose six last month. We hit a deer songs from that album and, in Minnesota and that set if we want to, we’ll have me back quite hard. Then I another EP. We have decided didn’t own a van, so we’ve yet... but, at this point, we’re been trying to rent vans. pitching that full album Yesterday I bought a van! to labels.

Other than just getting SMUCW: You’re on your road legs underneath the road at the moment, you, I mean we’re traveling and I saw you’ve been a lot, but we get up on stage opening up for a lot of pretty and we kill it and that’s why amazing artists. What’s that we’re here and that’s why been like? we’re doing it. Truly, it’s our MM: It’s been great. It’s passion. definitely inspiring to see SMUCW: What tips their bands and see their would you give to any shows.We’re opening for aspiring artists that would Corey Smith again this like to follow music as weekend and he’s got an a career? amazing band and plays MM: I would definitely really cool venues, and he say don’t compare yourself plays independent which to anybody else. Everybody’s is also really cool. We’re going to have a different opening for Gary Allan as journey and I think if you well on Friday, so that’ll just focus on what makes be cool. We’re getting to you, you, that’s how you’re open for lots of people so going to sell yourself the it’s really cool. It’s just a lot best. And just to remain of fun. positive, do everything you SMUCW: Do you have can to remain focused on any stops on the tour that what you’ve accomplished you’re specifically looking and why you’re doing this.

6 | Tuesday, August 16, 2016

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SPORTS

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SMU reveals plans for new indoor football facility, soccer field PATRICK ENGEL Associate Sports Editor pengel@smu.edu SMU has announced another major athletics facilities plan.

According to a university release, SMU will build an indoor practice center that will include a full-sized football field and a 300-meter track, with an outdoor grass football practice field next to it. The project will also include a new soccer field for men’s and women’s soccer.

SMU officials said the Athletics’ Facilities Master Plan will cost an estimated $150 million. The project announced its first phase on July 26. The practice center and adjacent outdoor field will be built on the current site of SMU’s soccer field and outdoor track, just

north of Ford Stadium. The new soccer field will be along Mockingbird Lane near Bishop Boulevard, on the site of SMU’s current outdoor football practice field.

“Our commitment to competing for championships and enhancing the student experience requires continued investment in student well-being and our people as well as our infrastructure,” SMU athletic director Rick Hart said in the release. “SMU and its donors and fans have made huge investments in athletics in recent years, and these projects are yet another step forward for our department.”

SMU did not announce a start date for construction. The expected completion date is 16 months from the start date.

The SMU Campus Weekly will provide more updates as they become available.

Illustration courtesy of SMU Athletics

The new indoor football and soccer practice center will upgrade the field, track and grass areas.

Tuesday, August 16, 2016 | 7

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SPORTS

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Despite sanctions and clumsy exit, Larry Brown was exactly what SMU needed PATRICK ENGEL Associate Sports Editor pengel@smu.edu Larry Brown is making sensational headlines again. He’s being criticized for how he left a job, which happens, on average, 3.1 years into his tenure.

SMU had to know what it was getting when it hired Brown in 2012: a winner who probably wouldn’t stick around too long and has had some prior trouble with the NCAA. Four years later, that’s exactly what SMU got.

It was fun. And then it was ugly. Then it was fun again. It ended on a clumsy note. And it was worth every bit. Turning SMU, a moribund program for 20 years, into a winner was worth the consequences it brought.

Brown inherited a team in Conference-USA that attracted so few fans at its home games that players joked that they used to sit on the bench and count the fans in the upper bowl of Moody Coliseum. Even if that number of fans reached double digits, it was still lower than the number of splinters fans got from Moody’s old wooden seats.

Enter Brown in April 2012, with 1,499 career wins at the time, an NBA and NCAA title and a spot in the basketball Hall of Fame.

Never mind that his average time at a job was three seasons and that each of his previous college stops had NCAA sanctions during his tenure. If he could lead the Charlotte Bobcats, then the NBA’s equivalent of SMU basketball, to the NBA playoffs in his second season as head coach, he could win at SMU as fast as anyone else.

Four years later, Brown led SMU to one of the most successful stretches in school history.

Three straight 25-win seasons for the first time ever. A top-10 ranking for the first time since 1985. An NCAA tournament appearance for the first time since 1993. When Temple snapped SMU’s 18-0 start to 2015-16, its fans stormed the court. Anyone storming the court after beating SMU was unfathomable four years ago.

Brown’s tenure came with a couple ugly parts. Let’s go back to the last time everyone was out to get Brown. It’s Sept. 29, 2015, the day the NCAA handed SMU severe sanctions that included a postseason ban. He is getting called every possible name. Cheater. Liar.

Corner-cutter. Dick Vitale, one of college

Photo by SMU Athletics

Former SMU Men’s Basketball coach Larry Brown resigned July 8.

basketball’s biggest ambassadors, questioned why Brown was allowed to coach at all this year. Columnists thrashed SMU and Brown, one even saying SMU should be kicked out of the NCAA. The infractions case was SMU’s 10th in school history, the most of any Division I school. Brown’s winning and fleeting reputation, fair or not, was long established.

So was SMU’s reputation as a school that cheats a lot. Neither reputation was going to disappear no matter what SMU did on the court.

SMU’s losing reputation, though, could change. And it did. Would any SMU fan trade all the success of Brown’s SMU tenure to shrink the number of infractions cases from 10 to nine? Would any SMU fan trade the wins with sanctions for mediocrity without sanctions?

For those who think SMU wouldn’t have won without giving Keith Frazier improper assistance, the NCAA found he didn’t even need the class that was taken for him. He also was hardly a critical piece of the team’s success.

Ultimately, by sticking by its contract extension offer to Brown, SMU showed it didn’t want to continue to risk any more academic troubles. It’s a good decision for the long-term health of the program, even if it meant risking Brown’s departure. Immediate troubles to make the program relevant are survivable, but SMU can’t continue to risk further issues if it wants to be a consistent winner.

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NEWS

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Jacquelyn Elias/ SMU CAMPUS WEEKLY

Bulldozers and firefighters worked throughout the night on Aug. 12 to break down walls of Goff’s Hamburgers and put out the remaining fire hours after the restaurant burned.

Grease fire destroys Goff’s Hamburgers near SMU campus, establishment torn down DAVID SEDMAN, OLIVIA NGUYEN & JACQUELYN ELIAS Fire broke out Friday afternoon on Aug. 12 at a local burger mecca familiar to the SMU community. The fire reportedly originated in a grease trap resulting in billowing dark smoke that signaled a multi-alarm fire at the Goff ’s Hamburger restaurant across the street from the SMU campus at the intersection of

Hillcrest Ave. and McFarlin Blvd.

The 65-year-old independent restaurant moved to its current location in 2004 from its original location on Lovers Lane near the Dallas North Tollway.

Smoke swept through the SMU campus as firefighters from University Park tried to douse the flames, and at around 2 p.m., flames were visible from the south window of the building. Businesses were evacuated along the shopping center as the firefighters tried to contain the fire to the corner business.

According to an SMU email, police and fire-rescue units were on-site to address the situation. Pedestrians and vehicular traffic were being instructed to avoid Hillcrest Ave. between Mockingbird Lane and Lovers Lane.

Shortly after 8 p.m. Aug. 12, firefighters continued to fight flames in the two and a half story burger house amidst strong winds and heavy rain. The City of University Park reported having the fire under control at around 7 p.m. Aug. 13.

Goff ’s Hamburgers’ roof collapsed and the building faces major internal and external damages with the top story nearly destroyed. The University Park Police Department closed Hillcrest Ave. between Granada and Daniel earlier in the afternoon, which remained closed until early Saturday morning.

No injuries were reported, according to the Highland Park Department of Public Safety.

After 9 p.m Aug. 13, bulldozers began to destruct the building, and firefighters continued to extinguish flames.

Workers continued throughout the night, and only a few walls of the building currently still stand.

Hillcrest Ave. is now open for regular traffic; however, McFarlin Blvd. is still blocked half of a block west of Hillcrest to allow room for rubble.

Immediate buildings next to the damage remained closed such as La Bichette, TaylorMark, McCartney’s University Spirit, Pizza Hut and Jimmy John’s, and a protective fence remains around the affected areas.

Jacquelyn Elias/ SMU CAMPUS WEEKLY

The Dallas Fire Rescue attends to the scene and sprays water to put out the fire at Goff’s.

Tuesday, August 16, 2016 | 9

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NEWS

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Spatial optimization serves as primary focus of Fondren Library renovations REECE GRAHAM Contributing writer rgraham@smu.edu

Gillian M. McCombs beamed with giddy enthusiasm while showing off the newly renovated spaces of Fondren Library. The sound of her short heels and lofty English dialect echoed off the polished marble at a muted volume fitting a librarian.

Even in a hushed tone, McCombs’ voice filled with pride on the tour of the renovations, which included the new Fondren Foundation Centennial Reading Room. The reading room, which opened on Founder’s Day Weekend in April, was the first phase of a facelift many believe Fondren has needed for years. As Dean and Director of Central University Libraries, McCombs hopes the ongoing renovations will make for a better learning environment for those at SMU. “It’s no accident that one of the hallmarks of this renovation is the return of the reading room to its original purpose: providing an inspirational and elegant space for reflection and silent study for all students and faculty,” McCombs said during the reading room’s dedication ceremony.

The reestablishment of the reading room’s place in Fondren was a major goal of McCombs and her team throughout the planning of the library’s makeover. She says re-opening the room was key to making the space more useable for students and to highlighting portions of various library collections, which otherwise would go unappreciated. The renovation allows for a better usage of space across the board.

“Everything we’ve been doing has been to open up, create more light, create more study opportunities, and make it a more attractive and functional space,” McCombs said in an interview following the reading room’s opening.

Many students were surprised to learn that the reading room had always been there, including sophomore finance and public policy major Jimmy Buckley.

“I had no idea,” Buckley said on a study break during finals week. “First time I walked in I was shocked.”

McCombs says the reading room was one of the largest study spaces on campus when Fondren Library opened in 1940. As the special collections of SMU’s DeGolyer Library grew over the years, Fondren needed to find more storage space. When Fondren East opened in 1968, the reading room was reconfigured into

a repository for the DeGolyer collections with only a small reading space left available. The reading room was eventually forgotten as other portions of the library flourished.

“We wanted to bring back the reading room for the students,” McCombs said. “When students first came in 1940, they had that. We all felt really sad that current students didn’t have the opportunity.”

She says using the reading room as storage for collections was never the best-case scenario.

By doing so, the library not only eliminated a gathering space for students, but also effectively hid those collections away from the public eye. The library has now given itself a way of displaying its extensive collections by creating the Hillcrest Foundation Exhibit Hall and the Texana Room, which currently display an original printed copy of the Texas Declaration of Independence, Texas banknotes, artifacts from JCPenney and Texas Instruments, and sheriffs’ badges from every county in the state.

The void left in the reading room has been filled by students, many of whom have religiously studied there in the short time since its re-opening.

“I had only been into Fondren once before, but I’ve been in the reading room almost everyday since it opened,” first-year business major Emma Culver said.

“I was really excited when they opened up a real study space in here,” first-year marketing and French major Lauren Veith said. “My dad and I, when we were visiting, wanted to see the library and we walked in this area and it was completely different. We were like, ‘oh, this isn’t the library really.’”

McCombs says another motivation for the

entire project was to make the library feel like the center of the university’s academic mission. She wanted to create a space that would both provide students a variety of learning experiences and

create a better flow in the library.

The reference desk will now be combined with the center circulation area, creating a one-stop shop for all forms of content. Librarians will now be housed in one suite so students know where to go for assistance. The old information commons is being rebranded as a learning commons with more space for computers and open-concept classrooms.

The next phase of the renovation to open will be a collaborative commons with comfortable seating, computer-generated art, presentation stations and a Starbucks.

“It was important to create a café, because I think today there’s a different way of living, studying and using space,” she said. “We wanted to create a ‘third space’ where people can come together very democratically, chill out and do whatever they need to do.”

Despite the positive changes going on at Fondren, some students have been critical of the renovations on social media.

To read more news online, visit www.smudailycampus.com.

Purchase any burger and get the 2nd one for free.

Give it to a friend or box it up for later. Your call.

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10 | Tuesday, August 16, 2016

OPINION

SMU Campus Weekly

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Challenges First-years will experience in the First-month

CELEBRATING 100 YEARS 1915 - 2015

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Starting college is a big adjustment to be sure, complete with a full suite of ups and downs for those just starting out. While it is by no means impossible – and maybe even not difficult at all for some – there are certainly some challenges that will arise for anyone starting off. Here is my list of problems that first-years especially should be aware of and will likely come across in the first month.

Mustang Corral Tons of Icebreakers: I could stop with that and get my point across on this being a challenge for everyone. Mustang Corral is a tradition of mutual suffering, just one more thing to push through before starting classes. It certainly does have its value in learning the traditions of SMU and giving everyone a set of familiar faces to start out the year.

But even with the stated good, be aware that at times you will want nothing more than for it to be over swiftly.

STAFF COLUMN

NOAH BARTOS Opinion Editor nbartos@smu.edu

Sickness The onslaught of first-years also brings whatever sicknesses that are present in their home state or area here to Dallas, and no one has an immunity to all of them.

Within the first month or so of classes there never fails to be an “SMU Plague” which takes out many people with the same symptoms.

There really is not a good way to avoid this other than being hygienic – at a certain point dorm life makes getting really, really sick unavoidable. Just be sure to go to the health center or an urgent care facility if you are seriously ill.

New Friends By the end of the first month, you’ll have your small-talk routine down pat.

You’ll be an expert at introducing where you are from, what you are studying, and other facts about your background.

Do not worry, you will eventually make close friends and find people who are like you here at SMU. We have lots of great communities if you know where to look. But, at times, the constant social interaction of the first month can be overwhelming Time Management & Responsibility There is so much to do starting out that time management, or more likely time mismanagement, will affect everyone starting out their college career, and even those who are years into their education.

Finding the balance of studying, friendships and activities is different for each person. It is something worth considering and helps to develop good habits around starting out.

Editor previews Fall politics It appears as if America’s political landscape is in a free-fall. For all the promise that the primary season showed, all of those hopes have been dashed against the jagged rocks of Hillary Clinton’s and Donald Trump’s campaigns.

Sure, there are some people who are excited about each of the respective candidates.

There are die-hard Democrats willing to write off Clinton’s many scandals, some even claim they are not a big deal and have all been manufactured by the right wing to keep her from winning the presidency. Even if they acknowledge her scandals, many support her as they think she is the most presidential and the most experienced – which may be true.

On the other hand, there are the Trump supporters who back his fresh, blunt style of saying and doing whatever he wants. While these supporters may be portrayed as backwards and bigoted by some, Trump offers an outlet for the “middle-class” frustrations present

STAFF COLUMN

NOAH BARTOS Opinion Editor nbartos@smu.edu

today and a way for people to say exactly what they think, no matter whether it is politically correct or not.

However, by most measures, the die-hard supporters of either of these candidates are on the far ends of their parties. They are either the party faithful or the ideologically zealous.

There are many more Americans stuck in the middle of what can easily be seen as two bad choices. Huffington Post polling has both Clinton’s and Trump’s unfavorable rating as being over 50 percent. The main takeaway from this poll result is both candidates are viewed as negative in the eyes of most people.

Right now, Clinton has a lead generally in election polling and

unfavorable ratings. She seems to be the eminent frontrunner, but edging out Trump in unfavorables is not exactly a massive feat. While things could stay the same, it is likely that the polling numbers will drastically shift in the coming campaigning months. Because while Hillary has the lead, neither candidate is polling over 50 percent support.

Right now, in our polarized and divided political climate, it is likely whoever will win will be chosen as the lesser of two evils. If either of the candidates can turn this negative dialogue around, that would be fantastic – however it does not seem likely at this point. It will be the last one standing.

There are currently three presidential debates being tentatively discussed, which could be critical in swinging the balance of the race. This page will follow the developments of the campaign and provide commentary as our nation progresses towards electing our next president this November.

Tuesday, August 16, 2016 | 11

SMU Campus Weekly

FASHION

smudailycampus.com/style @SMUCW_Fashion

Dallas perfumer weighs in on synthetic versus natural fragrance GIANNI WINDAHL Contributing Writer gwindahl@smu.edu Al Adamson’s blue eyes sparkle as he makes a sweeping motion with his arm, presenting a room with 3-inch bottles lining every wall from top to bottom. The pungent aroma of indiscernible sweet scents wafts out the door and into the rest of the building.

“Perfumery is one of the old world crafts, just like silversmithing or goldsmithing,” he said.

Adamson, one of only about 200 perfumers in the U.S. and executive vice president at Creative Fragrances, a perfume manufacturing company located in northeast Dallas, clearly likes his job.

Adamson revealed the hidden side of the perfume industry to a SMU Campus Weekly reporter one day recently. He explained the difference between synthetic fragrances and natural fragrances and gave insight into how a fragrance perfumer is made and how fragrances are created.

According to a 2015 report by The NPD Group, a data collection company, the perfume business is a $28 billion industry globally and nearly $6 billion in the United States.

Some SMU students, such as first-year Elizabeth Whitson, add fuel to the fire.

“I really love perfume, I always wear it before I go out,” Whitson said.

The all-natural beauty products trend has created some controversy over the use of synthetic chemicals in perfume versus natural oils, Adamson said. But there are pros and cons to both. Essential oils are more expensive, harder to come by and occasionally more irritating to the skin than some fragrances that are produced synthetically.

Natural essential oils are extracted from crop products and they can be expensive.

Rose absolute is $1,024 per pound, for instance, and sandalwood oil is $1,500 to $4,000 per pound.

Essential oils are also a limited resource.

“There are many essential oils right now, like chamomile Roman oil that only come from Italy or England. But they are unavailable because the whole world supply

Photo by Gianni Windahl

Executive vice president Al Adamson in the laboratory at Creative Fragrances in northeast Dallas.

has been purchased by designer fragrance companies,” Adamson said.

He added a perfumer cannot buy Roman chamomile until the next crop comes out in August.

“So there’s none available in the world until August of this year and I’m sure everyone’s going to buy it all up once it’s released,” Adamson said.

Perfumers sometimes choose to face these challenges because essential oils provide the fullest fragrance.

He said that synthetic oils are trying to mimic what natural oil, such as lavender oil, smells like. However, there are certain chemicals in parts per million in the natural lavender plant oil that are impossible to synthesize at a chemical plant.

“The natural lavender oil tends to have a fuller more rounded odor. So synthetics tend to be a little thinner, a little weaker, sometimes smell a little chemical-ly and different from the natural plant,” said Adamson.

Some SMU students, such as second-year Whitney Smith, have expressed concern over fragrance allergies. “I start sneezing when I smell some perfumes,” Smith said.

But what people may not know is that some of the chemicals in natural oils can be more irritating than those made in factories.

For example, natural lavender contains 35 to 40 chemical ingredients. Two of the main chemicals are linalool and linalool acetate, which are slight skin allergens. They are found in the plant naturally, and cannot be

taken out because they are a main component in the scent. But linalool and linalool acetate can also be made in chemical plants, and used to create synthetic lavender oil. And when a chemist is making the synthetic version of lavender, he can adjust the level in the formula so it is not as irritating.

“From a safety standpoint, almost all of natural essential oils contain allergens. When you make a synthetic version of some of these naturals, you can actually make it safer by limiting or reducing the amount of the allergens

that are in the natural product,” Adamson said.

For those with allergies, he suggests purchasing synthetic fragrance or buying unscented or lightly-scented products.

The science that goes into making perfume is exact, and Adamson highlighted the process of becoming a perfumer and then making perfumes.

“You can’t go to SMU and get a degree in perfumery. It doesn’t exist. There are essentially no colleges that have diplomas in perfumery because it’s such a small profession,” said Adamson, who completed his apprenticeship program at Proctor & Gamble.

He said aspiring perfumers need to serve as apprentices under a master perfumer for five to eight years to learn the craft. In these years, the student studies all of the ingredients and memorizes their odors. This is no small feat, since there are approximately 5,000 different synthetic chemicals and more than 150 essential oils that can be used.

Once the student has completed his program, he joins the American Society of Perfumers.

The perfumer can then set out on the task of creating a fragrance. Adamson provided an example of how he might create a lemon scent for a cleaning product.

There are around 500 ingredients that can be used in a lemon scent. Adamson said he chooses the top 10 to 30 ingredients he thinks will fit.

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12 | Tuesday, August 16, 2016

FASHION

SMU Campus Weekly

smudailycampus.com/style smucw_editorial@smu.edu

Rebuilding America’s founding industry: apparel manufacturing MADELINE KALB Contributing Writer mkalb@smu.edu A plain white cotton T-shirt retails at American Apparel for $24. A similar white V-neck T-shirt constructed from modal and cotton retails at Forever 21 for a sixth of the price at $3.90.

This price disparity is due to outsourcing labor to factories that hire workers for pennies.

The Forever 21 T-shirt was manufactured in Nicaragua and the American Apparel shirt was made at home in Los Angeles.

“The North American Free Trade Agreement set in motion a lot of the migration of apparel and textile jobs out of the U.S.,” said Rosanne Hart, founder of the Hart Agency.

“I witnessed this in the drastic reduction of apparel manufacturers in Dallas who were clients of ours in the 1990s.”

Hart also said there is apparel manufacturing present in America today but at a very limited level.

“I would buy the $3.90 white tee. As an avid shopper, I’m always looking for staple pieces. It’s a white T-shirt, which will probably be paired with jeans or covered by a jacket. Why spend the

extra $20.10 on the same item?” retail consumer Elizabeth Sfondrini said.

In the 1990s, American Apparel entered the fashion market and ignited the made-in-America movement. According to a report published in the Los Angeles Times, more than eight in 10 Americans have become increasingly wary of mass-produced items and want goods that are unique and made sustainably in America.

Americans associate the made-in-America movement with higher quality goods. The report even suggests that Americans are willing to pay more for domestically manufactured goods.

SMU graduate Matt Alexander became a local Dallas fixture of the made-in-America movement with the founding of Need (now rebranded as Foremost) in November 2013. Foremost is an American-made clothing line available for both men and women at an affordable cost. A Pima cotton and MicroModal tee from Foremost costs the same as a plain cotton tee from American Apparel.

SMU student Miranda Zsigmond said she would be more likely to purchase the Foremost white tee over the Forever 21 tee if it was better quality and manufactured ethically.

“It’s really just a question of scale and

infrastructure on the technical side of things for apparel,” Alexander said.

Alexander recently moved the manufacturing of Foremost out of the suburbs of Dallas to Los Angeles in order to increase efficiency. Alexander said Dallas was just not a hub of manufacturing.

The obstacle that most Americans believe Alexander and other American-made designers face is finding a factory that has the infrastructure, resources and ability to produce garments at an affordable price.

“Many people are shocked that we’d be able to produce affordable tees in the U.S.,” Alexander said. “Really though, there’s a huge amount of infrastructure and talent here. It may not be as cheap as it would be abroad, but it has not been prohibitive for making something great.”

According to a report published by ChinaBriefing, the minimum hourly wage for workers in India, a country that is heavily reliant on apparel manufacturing, is $0.28 compared to the American minimum wage of $7.25.

The Foremost brand targets men and women ages 18 to 25 and 35 to 44. Most of their customers are located across the globe in Dallas, New York, San Francisco, Los Angeles, London, Sydney, Paris and Berlin.

According to Alexander, he is able to

Photo by American Apparel

Foremost is an American-made clothing line available for both men and women at an affordable cost.

manufacture apparel domestically at a profit because of scale. When Alexander puts in his order at the factory, the larger the order the smaller the price. If he were to try to produce a small amount of product, it would no longer be a profitable business.

As for the future of the made-in-America movement, Alexander believes a lot of brands are trying. “For us, as Foremost lives alongside another brand, we don’t have as much of a focus on reaching enormous scale,” Alexander said. “I can grow my brand at its own pace and ultimately amount to something larger. Time will tell.”

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