The re-size revolution

Re-Size Revolution The MODEL CALLS FOR LARGER SAMPLE SIZE IN RESPONSE TO HARSH EXPECTATIONS.

By Mary-Wesley Maddox

Fashion industry professionals make statements embracing social 7, 2016 and has since promoted numerous projects to advocate for improvchange and body positivity, yet the high fashion modeling industry ing the working conditions for high fashion models. remains cutthroat and damaging for many young models. Is an industry- The creator behind the account has supported fellow models by making wide sample size change the answer to alleviating the intense pressures a master list of allegedly abusive photographers and sharing followers’ they face? personal anecdotes of racial discrimi“I always see girls and think, ‘Oh my God, they’re so much skinnier than “High Fashion is an art form, nation from agencies. In August 2020, the anonymous Instagram user created me,’ and it’s hard, because you want to a Change.org petition calling for the fit into all the clothes,” said Michaela McTee, a sophomore at Southern but viewers do not disconnect fashion industry to change the sample size to promote a healthier approach to Methodist University who has modeled model size. The petition garnered over for five years in the Austin, San Antonio and Dallas areas. “It’s hard to get your- it from reality.” 16,000 signatures in three weeks. A sample, as the name suggests, is self to be that small to fit in a classic produced primarily to show wholesale sample size, especially when it’s not one uniform size.” buyers what a designer intends to produce, should the buyer want to order

The Instagram page @shitmodelmgmt is dedicated to relating to the garment for retail sale. Usually, a designer produces a limited number models like McTee. “We all want to quit. Model exposing the truth,” reads of samples, and those samples are all made in a single size, called a sample the Instagram bio of the anonymous account, which boasts over 170,000 size. The current U.S. sample size is between a women’s sizes 0 and 4, followers. The account posted its first witty industry commentary on April reflecting the two ways the samples are intended to be viewed: on a hanger

or on a model.

To maintain a physique slim enough to fit into the smallest sample size, modeling agencies often encourage models to diet and exercise to reach and maintain specific measurements. But models and other industry critics say the sample sizes are an extreme goal for many models, and the portrayal of this unachievable standard on the runway and in advertising could be harmful to consumers who strive to achieve the same ultra-thin appearance.

Yet the sample size is an established part of the fashion business, and an industry-wide change could disrupt the fast pace of high fashion.

“Standard sample sizes exist to make elements of the fashion business easier for designers,” said Jenny B. Davis, professor of practice at SMU who teaches fashion journalism. A longtime editorial fashion stylist, Davis has attended New York Fashion Week every year since 2007 and is the author of the second edition of StyleWise: A Practical Guide to Becoming a Fashion Stylist. “Sample sizes make it easier to cast fashion shows, to make last-minute fashion show lineup changes, to send clothes all over the world for fashion shows and trunk shows and to participate in fashion shoots.”

While some models naturally possess the physique to fit into sample sizes, the extreme pressure to maintain this size can take a physical and psychological toll.

McTee describes her relationship with food and exercise as healthy, but other models experience restrictive eating behaviors. The @shitmodelmanagement petition cited a poll of 4,481 of its followers. The poll found that 65% of these followers admitted to having an eating disorder “as a direct result of modeling expectations.”

Additionally, 84% of 4,019 of the account’s followers said that “at their body’s natural and healthy weight, they have been told that it is too big and they must lose weight in order to work.”

The desired look for female high fashion models is very tall and thin, and some fashion designers say clothing looks aesthetically better on this body type. According to a dataset from “Fashion Modelling, Blink Technologies and Imaging Regimes,” an article by Elizabeth Wissinger, the overall trend from 1930 to 2009 shows models’ height going up, with hip and waist measurements going down.

McTee says that, in her experience, young models trying to break into competitive cities like New York are favored to be signed if they are over 6 feet tall. Proportionally, preserving a dress size between 0 and 4 at this height is difficult for women to achieve.

“Runway models are starving themselves, basically,” said Catherine Slaughter, member of the Fashion Group International Dallas and former clothing product developer. Slaughter said that consumers may experience negative self image by “trying to look like what these models look like and using them as the standard of what beauty is.”

In fashion shows and commercial shoots, there is a contrast between the average size of the consumers and the average size of the women who model the clothes. While the fashion industry has made progress with size inclusivity on the production side, it is not always reflected in the marketing of most brands. The extremely thin body type that is presented through advertising can be harmful for both models and consumers.

Cultural sociologist Lise Skov explores how advertising affects consumers in the “Ethics and Industry” section of the Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion entry on West Europe. “The typical response to the allegation that advertising presents extreme images is that fashion and beauty images are not intended to be realistic,” Skov wrote. “They need to present something out of the ordinary to fuel the desire for the products they endorse. In this respect, the models and celebrities that embody these extreme ideals become frontline figures in the controversy over the ethics of fashion images.”

High fashion is an art form, but viewers do not disconnect it from reality. Social media apps allow consumers to be advertised to constantly, and the ideal body standard can become ingrained in viewers’ minds.

Sample sizes are an integral part of the fashion industry, so it will not change overnight. However, brands are starting to represent different body types in advertising, and accounts like @shitmodelmanagement are giving models a voice to advocate for themselves and urge the industry power players to treat them better.

“Models need to be able to speak up and know that they can still get work,” said Davis, “and those in power need to know that they will be held accountable and that their actions will have real and lasting consequences.”

serve looks

SEEING Look out for these laid-back trends this fall and winter. TWENTY-TWENTY

Meredith Embree, ‘21

SHOULDER TO SHOULDER Neon isn’t the only ‘80s trend recirculating this season: shoulder pads are making an elegant comeback! Giving off a structured and chic look, a top with shoulder pads is perfect for a Zoom conference call or a dinner date. Look to Zadig & Voltaire and Tom Ford for inspiration. — Meredith Welborn FUNKY FRAMES Mary Kate and Ashley, who? Vintage, oval sunglasses are an Instagrammer’s best friend. Perfect for a flat lay or a vintage-inspired look, these sunnies are everywhere right now, and they’re not going away anytime soon. We love! — Meredith Welborn

GREEN WITH ENVY One of the freshest colors for fall is green, and we can’t stop wearing it. Many different shades of green are trending: neon lime, dusty sage and even deep emerald. Incorporate green in small accessories or go for a full monochrome look to embrace the trend! — Mary-Welsey Maddox zara.com, $29.95

amazon.com, $4.50

Issa Duffy, ‘23 WORK HARD, LOUNGE HARDER Loungewear is the clothinghybrid that we can’t get enough of. This verstile wardrobe staple combines comfort with style, promising to elevate everything from your morning meditation gear to midday grocery-run look. — Loni Nunziata

prada.com, $775

A pair of gold hoops is a staple in any jewelry collection. For a more modern take on this classic piece, try a thicker pair that isn’t too wide. Style them with a low, slick bun and tapered jeans for that model off-duty look. — Maggie Kelleher Olivia Porsch, ‘24

POCHETTE

PANDEMONIUM

Channel your inner ‘90s “it” girl with this season’s most popular accessory: small, shoulder bags. From the iconic

Dior saddle bag to Prada’s Re-Edition collection, these hands-free bags are everywhere. For an extra throwback, try a laid-back nylon

GO FOR GOLD option in a bright color. — Maggie Kelleher

TIE-DIY Everyone has had extra time to try do-it-yourself projects, and at-home tie dye was one of our favorites. Now the trend has made its way into stores on everything from sweatsuits to silk dresses! This bright trend is sure to stick around as the weather gets more gloomy in the fall and winter. — Mary-Wesley Maddox slip.com, $39.95

MASK ME ANYTHING Keeping yourself and others safe doesn’t have to be boring. Masks are now an essential accessory, so make a statement and flaunt your style. Whether you prefer bold patterns or muted tones, a mask is the best (and safest) way to tie together any outfit! Never lose your mask by

adding a fun, attachable chain. — Loni Nunziata

Amelia Evans, ‘22

@the.daily.optimist, $65