STYLES AND STORIES OF FINE JEWELRY DESIGN
MAR/APR 2016
A TALE OF TWO JEWELRY BRANDS
TOP SPRING TRENDS
Amedeo Scognamiglio talks cameos and high Italian gold
Candy colors, orange pops, and modern classics
THE BIG STORY
ONE WOULD KING BE
16 PROLIFIC JEWELRY HOUSES DO BATTLE TO CROWN A CHAMPION
Cover jewelry by Ila Collection
50 FINALE
28 THE BIG STORY
CLASH TITANS OF
The greatest design houses in history go head-to-head to crown a champion
Zdena Jiroutova Award-winning retailer says jewelry is beauty carried with us
STYLES
STORIES
10 N OW
40 C R U S H
Today’s Design World
Kali Hawk
The latest from Walters Faith, Dana Rebecca and more
Comedic actress talks antique jewels, Roberto Coin and Sevan Biçakçi
12 M O M E N T
42 N E X T
Fresh Trends
20 G O O D I E S
Pamela Love
Candy colors, updated classics, and orange pops fill spring showcases
Spring Awakening
The fashion jewelry star makes a name for herself in fine
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22 E X T R A
IMPULSE
Seasonal jewelry blooms
Asymmetrical Hoops
Gilt Trip
Uneven earrings for under $500
Travel carriers for your favorite bijoux
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MUSE
C rved in Stone Wings, evil eyes and scarabs inspire Sylva & Cie’s latest jewels
18 T I M E
Bracelet Watches
23 G L A M O U R
Wrist jewels combine the best of both worlds
Drop Zone
45
Candy-colored drop earrings hit the red carpet
Turquoise
19 F O R E V E R
Emerald Aisle
24 P E R S O N A
Green is the choice of color for engagements
The Busy Mom Versatility and functionality are the watchwords for today’s jewelry wearer
ON T H E C OVE R
INDESIGN
CONTENTS MAR-APR 2016
Model Heather Love wears 14K recycled gold jewelry by Ila Collection: Tessa ring in 14K gold with diamonds, $1,420; Perry ring in 14K gold with diamonds, $1,665; Genevive necklace in 14K gold and hand-cut black diamond beads, $3,135; Farren cross necklace in 14K gold, black diamonds and black diamond beads, $3,965; and a stack of 14K gold, diamond and gemstone bangles, from $3,355 to $7,700. Visit ilacollection.com or call (713) 780-2828. Photographer: Cody Bess
ROCKS
The Southwestern f vorite finds new life 46 S PAC E
Yasuko Azuma Japanese-born designer achieves wabi-sabi in Brooklyn
25 S H OW D OW N
4 MARCH / APRIL 2016
Modern or Vintage?
48 T H E N
Danielle Miele and Barbara Palumbo argue the merits of yesteryear’s jewels vs. today’s
Acrostic Romance Gems spell out affection in vintage and modern bijoux
$ All prices in the magazine are listed at suggested retail.
STYLES
HELLO! NOTE FROM THE EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
12 West 37th St., Suite 502 New York, NY 10018 P (212) 981-9625 F (212) 981-0247 advertising@smartworkmedia.com editor@smartworkmedia.com
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If there were a heavyweight title belt for jewelry designers, who would wear it?”
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EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
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CONTRIBUTING WRITER
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NEW YORK, CT SALES MANAGER
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6 MARCH / APRIL 2016
WE ASKED OURSELVES this question, and fortunately for us, we were able to find the right experts to answer it. Sotheby’s VP and jewelry sales director Frank Everett, JewelsDuJour.com blogger Natalie Betteridge, and three-time author Beth Bernstein joined our own Tanya Dukes to debate who would win in a noholds-barred battle among the top design houses of all time. We had a ton of fun arguing these mythical matchups, and we hope you’ll take just as much enjoyment from reading about them. In the same fun spirit, we’ve got GemGossip.com writer Danielle Miele taking on Adornmentality.com blogger Barbara Palumbo over vintage jewels vs. modern. It’s a debate in which everyone wins, as comedic actress Kali Hawk of Fifty Shades Of Black would tell you. She shares her personal collection in this issue’s installment of “Crush,” and admits that while she considers herself a modern girl, she often
finds herself buying vintage. Elsewhere this issue, superdesigner Amedeo Scognamiglio talks about his hit music single, retailer Zdena Jiroutova explains what Pinocchio and designer jewelry have in common, and perhaps my favorite story of all, design house Hemmerle unveils earrings made of aluminum! As excited as I am about this issue’s contents, I would be remiss not to acknowledge the conspicuous absence of longtime “Customer Types” contributor Cindy Edelstein, who passed away in January. We’ll miss her terribly for her award-winning contributions to our magazines and trade show, but even more so for her wit, charm, and unflagging enthusiasm for all things designer jewelry. Rest in peace, Cindy — you were our favorite “type.”
Krista Collins Walters krista@smartworkmedia.com (212) 981-0230
EAST COAST SALES MANAGER
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WESTERN SALES DIRECTOR
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THE SMART JEWELRY SHOW SHOW DIRECTOR
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ASSOCIATE DIRECTOR
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REGISTRATION MANAGER
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INDESI
2016
GOODIES page 20
T H E N E X U S O F T R E N D, FA S H I O N A N D C E L E B R I T Y
STYLES
FOREVER page 19
This Month
Hemmerle [AL] Project earrings with beryls, zircons, tsavorites, aluminium and white gold, hemmerle.com Price on request
TIM E
Brace Yourself
The latest bracelet/ watch hybrids merge ornamentation with functionality. PAGE 18
SHOW D OW N
Old & New
Danielle Miele touts the virtues of vintage while Barbara Palumbo says only modern jewelry will do. PAGE 25
I’m a sucker for imperfection.” Scosha Woolridge on her first jewelry collection
TESTING THEIR METTLE
AT ANNUAL ART FAIR TEFAF MAASTRICHT, Hemmerle will exhibit alongside antiques dealers selling rarities. The Munich-based jeweler’s pieces, however, are utterly forward-looking. Its latest collection advances the possibilities of aluminum. Collectively known as The [AL] Project, the capsule of 16 one-of-a-kind pieces capitalizes on aluminum’s light weight to create easily wearable large-scale designs in both geometric and botanical shapes. According to Christian Hemmerle, one of the family firm’s fourth generation, developing a collection with the unpredictable metal required more than two years of experimentation to achieve its intricate forms and complete palette of colors. (Early naysayers said only five hues were possible.) It’s a feat that balances artistry with hard science know-how.
MARCH / APRIL 2016 9
STYLES
NOW HAPPENINGS IN THE WORLD OF DESIGN
STORY BY TANYA DUKES
THE CAT’S
MEOW
14K white gold, black rhodium, opal and diamond earrings, $1,320; and 14K rose gold, blue moonstone and diamond necklace, $660
MINI MARKET 5 Warming spring weather will make anyone want to cast off extra layers and lighten up. The latest line from DANA REBECCA DESIGNS strips things down to the bare essentials. Tiny gold studs, hoops and necklaces set with moonstones or opals plus diamond accents are so effortless to wear, they’ll become all-year essentials. danarebeccadesigns.com
14K gold Butterfly Demi earring with diamonds (2.18 TCW), $8,995
5 Despite its status as a major source for diamonds and gold, South Africa probably isn’t the first place that comes to mind when it comes to jewelry design. Clare Wiese’s brand PAKA PAKA could change that. The collection of gold, diamond and colored stone jewelry is produced in Cape Town and bases its sleek pieces on elements from indigenous vegetation to the majesty of the lion (“paka” means “cat” in Swahili). pakapaka.com
TWO OF A KIND
30mm hinged fluted bangle in sterling silver and 18K rose gold, $5,950
10 MARCH / APRIL 2016
5 Mollie Good and Stephanie Abramow are single-minded in their mission to create classic jewelry that’s never anonymous. Their label WALTERS FAITH (the name is a union of their middle names) infuses familiar staples with a cool, modern slant. Far from novices, the pair learned the ropes at a string of blue-chip jewelry brands before striking out to start their own. waltersfaith.com
ONE FINE DAY 18K gold ring with peach, champagne and white diamonds, $1,996
5“ r imperfection,” says S ge. It’s the reason the first, f fl fine jewelry collection from her na k brand SCOSHA wears its flawed, irreg l r diamonds and colored gemstones with pride. Called Vena Amoris (Latin for “vein of love,” the mythical direct connection between the left ring finger and the heart), the collection includes bangles and pendants, but most of the pieces are multistone rings, each with individual, handmade character. scosha.com
NEW COLLECTIONS R b A u
p (
pp )
FROM
SOURCE
Many Eas f access to something as vital as education. ANZA GEMS, a venture from idazzle.com blogger Monica Stephenson, addresses the problem while producing covetable design. The collection creates a transparent path for rough colored gems bought from Tanzanian and Kenyan dealers at fair trade prices, then faceted and set by U.S. gem cutters and designers. A stable of respected indie designers — Vicente Agor, Rebecca Overmann, Jennifer Dawes and Erika Winters — produced pieces for Anza’s debut collection; proceeds from each sale benefit primary and trade schools in the communities where the gems are mined. anzagems.com
BIG TIME 18K yellow gold and lapis curved link ring, $2,300
BEACH BOYS Fossilized coral, black onyx and sterling silver bracelet, $595
DOMESTIC AFFAIRS
5 Having established her eponymous brand MOCIUN as a destination for unconventional engagement rings and delicate fine jewelry, Caitlyn Mociun has set her sights on expanding her reach. With the Link collection, she’s experimenting with larger shapes, though with open silhouettes and geometric motifs that stay true to her original aesthetic. Crafted in gold from 10K up to 22K and with lapis, moonstone or variscite, the pared down range of rings, hoops, cuffs and necklaces draws on decade-jumping influences that include Victorian watch chains and Guy Bourdin’s surreal photography. mociun.com
Necklace in 18K white gold with grey fossilized dinosaur bone, azurite, picture agate and white diamonds, $34,680
Even guys who usually wrinkle their noses at the thought of wearing jewelry will gravitate to WILLIAM HENRY’s Reef bracelets. The easygoing line of beaded pieces combine sterling silver and gemstones with conversation starter materials like walrus tusk and megalodon tooth. The aquatic-inspired pieces are a way to bring a little seaside style anywhere, even if it’s a day at the office. williamhenry.com
Page through MONIQUE PÉAN’s passport and you’ll see stamps from French Polynesia to Peru and lots of points in between, many of which came to inspire her fine jewelry collection. The New York-based designer racked up fewer frequent flyer miles on her latest journey. Solcin is a line of pieces that echoes shapes from Utah’s distinctive landscape, especially its arch formations. And Péan found more than a creative spark on her journey; the jewels feature materials — fossilized walrus bone, septarian stones — that come from the state. moniquepean.com
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MARCH / APRIL 2016 11
STYLES
NOW HAPPENINGS IN THE WORLD OF DESIGN
Forever Yours
Kate Spade / Spring 2016
STYLES
MOMENT THE FRESHEST TRENDS IN JEWELRY DESIGN
On the runway, iconic sportswear pieces have been modernized while retaining their essential character. The same can be said for some of the season’s most wanted jewelry.
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1. Delfina Delettrez 18K gold, pearl and diamond ring, $1,080, delfinadelettr m | .G p yellow gold with 18K white gold and diamonds, $5,500, gurhan.com | 3. Jessica Biales signet rings (from bottom) in 10K yellow gold with champagne diamonds, 10K white gold with black diamonds or 18K yellow gold with white diamonds, from $1,800, jessicabiales.com | 4. Jade Trau 14K gold message box pendant with diamonds (0.66 TCW), $7,500, jadetrau.com | 5. Heirloom by Doyle & Doyle 18K yellow gold sunburst earrings with diamonds (0.20 TCW), $1,320, doyledoyle.com | 6. Seaman Schepps 18K yellow gold cuff, $10,600, seamanschepps.com
14 MARCH / APRIL 2016
MOMENT THE FRE SHE ST TRENDS IN JE WELR Y DESI GN
Sunn Delig t Orange really is the new black. Prepare for a healthy dose of visual vitamin C from jewels set with radiant fire opal, citrine and garnet.
1. Crevoshay 18K gold earrings with spessartite garnet, diamond and fire opal, price upon request, crevoshoy.com I 2. Donna Distefano 22K yellow gold, citrine and diamond bracelet, price upon request, donnadistefanoltd.com I 3. Suzanne Felsen 18K white gold, fire opal and mandarin garnet ring, $3,750, suzannefelsen.cam I 4 . Victor Velyan pendant in 24K gold, 14K white gold and silver with Mexican fire opal (11.79 TCW) and diamonds (0.80 TCW), $28,160, victorvelyan.com I 5. Suzy Landa 18K Firecracker earrings with fire opal (5.28 TCW) and diamonds (0.30 TCW), $5,100, suzylanda.com I 6. Antonini earrings in 18K yellow gold with citrine and white diamonds, $7,870, antonini.it
16 MARC H / APR I L 20 16
STYLES
TIME
PRODUCT DETAILS
THE MOST FASHIONABLE NEW WATCHES
Swedish silversmith Vivianna To1 run Bülow-Hübe created a watch
BRACE YOURSELF
JEWELS THAT TELL TIME ARE HAVING THEIR DAY. While all the bells and whistles of complex watchmaking have their allure, the pure beauty and heritage that goes into the design of a sophisticated timepiece can be just as enchanting. Iconic designs that are one part watch and one part bracelet are totally chic. STORY BY TANYA DUKES
Like what you see here? Tell them you saw it in INDESIGN!
on a clasp-free bangle and without numerals so that its owner wouldn’t feel like “a prisoner of time.” It has become one of Georg Jensen’s signature designs and continues to evolve with the addition of new embellishments and materials, including rose gold. georgjensen.com Georg Jensen Vivianna 34mm watch in 18K rose gold with quartz movement, $16,000
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First launched in 1935, Van Cleef & Arpels’ Cadenas timepiece features a bracelet that resembles a lock and an upright posture that lets its wearer subtly check the time without moving her wrist. Reputedly inspired by the Duchess of Windsor, the Cadenas was recently reintroduced with a larger dial, making covert hour watching even easier. vancleefarpels.com Van Cleef & Arpels Cadenas Sertie watch in yellow gold with round snowset diamonds, white mother-of-pearl dial and snake chain bracelet with quartz movement, $43,000
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Since the 1940s, snakes have figured into Bulgari’s designs, eventually evolving into the Serpenti collection, which includes the coiling watches and bracelets that were worn by Elizabeth Taylor in Cleopatra and continues to make red carpet appearances. In 2015, the house introduced another variation on the theme. The head and tail of the brand’s famous serpent intersect in its latest incarnation. bulgari.com
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LUXURY
Bulgari Serpenti 26mm watch with quartz movement and black sapphire crystal dial in 18K pink gold with brilliant-cut diamonds, price on request
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The first watch ever created by Chanel, the Premiere, borrows its very Parisian proportions from one of the city’s landmarks. Its octagonal shape is modeled after the shape of eternally chic Place Vendôme. Now the watch is being produced in beige gold — the color is meant to be a midpoint between yellow and rose. chanel.com Chanel Premiere 28mm watch in 18K beige gold with mother-of-pearl dial and diamonds, $30,500
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Gucci’s pervasive use of the elegant horsebit motif comes from the influence of the upper class equestrians near its Florentine home base. In use since the 1950s, the current incarnation of the curving link bracelet is petite and perfectly scaled for stacking with extra jewelry. guccitimeless.com Gucci Horsebit 28mm watch in 18K pink gold PVD with black sun-brushed dial, $990
18 MARCH /
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EMERALD AISLE Green is the color of choice for engagement rings STORY BY TANYA DUKES
CONVENTIONAL WISDOM says a bride should wear something blue on her wedding day. That’s not the only color to show up in current bridal rituals. The growing popularity of emerald engagement rings means brides-to-be are seeing green.
t n a d ver OSCAR HEYMAN baguette emerald (3.53 TCW) and baguette diamond (0.97 TCW) ring in 18K yellow gold and platinum, $56,000, oscarheyman.com | OMI PRIVÉ 2.53-carat cushion-cut emerald and brilliant-cut diamond (0.41 TCW) 18K gold ring, price on request, omiprive.com | ANNE SPORTUN 0.30-carat emerald and diamond (0.13 TCW) ring in 18K yellow gold, $2,770, annesportun.com | NIKOS KOULIS ring with 1.64-carat white oval diamond, oval emeralds (1.01 TCW) and black enamel in 18K white gold, $39,620, nikoskoulis.gr | NORA KOGAN emerald Knotty ring with 0.72-carat emerald and diamond pavé set in 18K yellow gold, $8,600, norakogan.com
STYLES
FOREVER THE LATEST IN “I DO” DESIGNS
STYLES
EXTRA STUFF FOR THE SERIOUS JEWELRY COLLECTOR
GILT TR IP
Can’t dream of being parted from your favorite baubles during your next journey? Bring them along in a travel-ready jewelry carrier.
$58
Parker Thatch Travel Jewel Box This mini canvas carrier will always keep an eye out for the treasured possessions inside. parkerthatch.com
$98
Henri Bendel West 57th Travel Jewelry Box With six ring slots and two interior compartments, this leather case comes to the rescue of travelers who never pack light. henribendel.com
$75 $38
Vera Bradley Jewelry Organizer Want to be sure your jewelry case coordinates with your luggage? This one is available in eight different prints. verabradley.com
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22 MARCH / APRIL 2016
Clare V. Jewelry Pouch A mini leather sack is just the thing for taking a few jewels on a brief weekend getaway. clarev.com
PERSONA JEWELRY LOOKS FOR EACH ASPECT OF YOUR PERSONALITY
earnngs Wearing no-fuss earrings simplifies getting dressed for The Busy Mom. Shapes that sit on the ear and don't require daily removal are a perfect solution. Asymmetrical studs, ear climbers and cuffs are styles that are easy to wear and touch on trends, too.
$2,970 Ch loe earring in 18K gold with trillion-cut diamonds (0.53 TCW) by Melissa Kaye, melissakayejewelry.com
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Any Busy Mom understands the advantage of multitasking. A convertible jewel that can be worn in two (or more) ways increases her styling options without carrying extra accessories.
$4,400 Vega SG four-band ring in silver, 18K yellow gold connectors, gray diamonds (1.60 TCW) and white diamonds (0.80 TCW) by Spinelli Kilcollin, spinelliki/col/in.com
THE
BUSY MOM MANAGING THE DEMANDS OF FAMILY LIFE is more than enough to keep anyone's hands full. But being a busy mom doesn't put an end to a woman's enthusiasm for jewelry and cultivating her personal style. Effortless pieces that are versatile and functional won't slow a busy mom down. STORY BY TANYA DUKES
watch Juggling a crammed schedule requires always keeping tabs on the time. Wearing an understated watch with a hint of unexpected color is a chic way to watch the hours.
$800 41mm Runwell watch with a gold PVD plated sta inl ess steel case, quartz movement and alligator strap by Shinola,
shino/a.com
necklace Even in the digital age, when it's possible to store hundreds of photos on a cellphone, there's something especially intimate about carrying a tangible photo of a loved one. A locket in a streamlined design that can be worn daily keeps family close.
$4,750 Chevron locket in black ceramic and 18K gold on a 32-inch steel chain by Monica Rich Kosann, monicarichkosann.com
24 MARCH/ APRIL 2016
BARBARA PALUMBO
OLD WORLD OBSESSION
EVERYTHING NEW IS NEW AGAIN
ANY ANTIQUE JEWELRY LOVER will tell you this old but true adage: “They don’t make them like they used to!” Why? Because it’s true! The workmanship of bygone eras is beyond comparison — forged by hand, diamonds and gemstones cut by hand, with but a soft light from a candle (no electricity) to guide the way of these old school craftsmen. And any collector will never forget their very first encounter with the world of vintage and antique jewelry — it may have been an art deco filigree diamond and sapphire ring (as in my case) or a trip to a museum showcasing antique jewels. It may have been a necklace that was recently passed down or a family engagement ring that was inherited. Once you’re hooked, the thrill of the hunt will forever keep you captivated. That’s why antique jewelry is a whole different realm and can’t even really be compared to new, designer jewelry. These pieces have a story, an untold history, a side of mystery. You never know what you’re going to find at an antique jewelry shop, estate auction, or flea market across the world! The rarity of that alone is what makes antique jewelry a modern day treasure.
VERSUS
Danielle Miele and Barbara Palumbo are the voices behind the new industry podcast, “Because Jewelry,” which will cover current events and hot topics, as well as be a platform for current and emerging designers to share their stories. Danielle is the founder and editor-in-chief of GemGossip.com, where she chronicles her love for jewelry. Follow her on Instagram @gemgossip and the famous hashtag she created, #showmeyourrings. Barbara writes the humorous trade blog Adornmentality.com and has recently launched a female-friendly watch blog titled WhatsOnHerWrist.com. With a background in sales and manufacturing, she has written for a variety of publications.
DANIELLE MIELE
I. DON’T. DO. VINTAGE. Maybe it’s because I was raised in a city where everything is old. Maybe it’s because all that I ever had growing up in said city was used or second-hand. Or maybe, it’s because there are more than enough stunning pieces out there created by a plethora of talented jewelry designers to keep me happy well into my third life (and I will have a third life; I do way too much to fit into just one). Whatever the reason, you can bet your sweet bottom that the last thing you’ll see adorning these digits, or gracing these lobes, or heaven forbid, enhancing this collarbone is some piece that once belonged to the third Duchess of Hamilton’s grandmother or the Marchioness of Cholmondeley’s step-cousin, twice removed. The jewelry I buy for myself (go feminism!) is modern and contemporary. When you slip on a ring that is new, not just to you but to the rest of the world, it should give you an instant feeling of gratification. Each designer piece I own cheers me on, acting as a reminder of how far one can go in life, no matter where she started.
MARCH / APRIL 2016 25
STYLES
SHOWDOWN DEBATING THE LATEST JEWELRY STYLES
DESIGN SHINES IN CHICAGO
Discover the future of fine and designer jewelry in the INDESIGN Pavilion and the INDESIGN Studio — only at The SMART Show Chicago.
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Shop quality design companies in all price points.
1. ANCORA DESIGNS BOOTHS 2300, 2302 Vianca Signature Collection I 2. TAL BOOTHS 2203, 2205 Diamond cuff with 38 carats of VS-quality diamonds set in 18K white gold I 3. WILLIAM LEVINE FINE JEWELS BOOTH 2310 18K white gold chandelier earrings with 26 pear-shape diamonds I 4. FREIDA ROTHMAN BOOTH 2213 Double Helix wide hinge bangle I 5. FREYWILLE BOOTH 2212 The Diva bangle, inspired by world-famous Austrian artist Gustav Klimt I 6. CHARLES GARNIER BOOTH 2312 Sterling silver 3mm Savannah mesh hook bracelet featuring simulated diamonds in white rhodium finish I 7. ZENOVE JEWELRY INC. BOOTH 2211 Natural yellow diamonds earrings with ruby invisible setting I 8. MARTIN FLYER JEWELRY BOOTH 2200 FlyerFit by Martin Flyer Engagement ring featuring a baguette halo in white gold with matching wedding band I 9. CHRISTOPHER DESIGNS INC. BOOTH 2201 I 10. CROWNRING BOOTH 2210 Two-tone 18K gold Carlex featuring 370 VS1 diamonds (1.50 TCW) I 11. OSCAR HEYMAN BOOTH 2306 Watermelon tourmaline ring accented by curving rows of square diamonds
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Meet today’s most creative independent designers. 10. NINA NGUYEN DESIGNS BOOTH 2318-B Make your style legendary with the new Ha Long collection I 11. ANGELA GEORGE JEWELRY BOOTH 2218-A Pillow Talk box bracelet in 18K yellow gold with diamond bezels I 12. DIABELLA INC. BOOTH 2219-B I 13. LIKA BEHAR COLLECTION BOOTH 2316-B 24K gold “Olivia” oval cabochon side drop sleeping beauty turquoise necklace with olive branch motifs and diamonds on a 23.5K yellow gold thin adjustable chain I 14. ANDREW HAMILTON CRAWFORD BOOTH 2216-B I 15. FREDERIC SAGE BOOTH 2217-B Venus Cushion pendant with white mother of pearl and abalone shell accentuated with micro-set diamonds I Not pictured: TANYA FARAH BOOTH 2218-B
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APRIL 17-19 CONFERENCE
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THE JEWELRY VERSION
VAN CLEEF & ARPELS
THE TOURNAMENT BRACKET
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BOUCHERON
1st Round
Q rterfinals
HARRY WINSTON
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Quarterfinals
Semifinals
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CHAUMET
FINALS
CARTIER
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GARRARD
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BELPERRO
? JEAN SCHLUMBE G R
I MEAN HOW DO YOU DECIDE? THEY BOTH HAD SUCH AN INCREDIBLE INFLUENCE.”
Beth Bernstein
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THE BIG STORY OUR EXPERTS Beth Bernstein, Natalie Betteridge, Tanya Dukes, Frank Everett, Trace Shelton (see page 35)
HISTORY’S MOST PROLIFIC
TIFFANY & CO.
BUCCE
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jewelry designers GO HEAD-TOHEAD TO CROWN A CHAMPION
GIULIANO
L
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1st Round
DAVID WEBB
VERDURA
BULGARI
CASTELLA I
N MARCH, the best in the game did battle on a neutral site. The goal? To be the last one standing, acknowledged as champions in their field. No, we’re not talking about basketball — we’re talking about the most famous and talented design houses and creators to ever fashion a jewel. To crown history’s top designer, we put 16 of the most influential jewelry makers ever into a bracket. Then, we recruited top experts on jewelry history and style, put them on a conference call together, and let them hash it out, tournament style. Whomever the experts decided won between two designers moved on to the next round. Each matchup pitted two legends of jewelry design against one another. In the first round, we asked our experts to focus on iconic designs; in the second, they considered the breadth of the brand’s accomplishments across its line, and in the third, our experts discussed the degree of impact that each contender had on popular culture and on the world of jewelry design, both past and present. The final round was a no-holdsbarred contest comparing all of one brand’s accomplishments against the other. There wasn’t always agreement, and some of the decisions were nearly too close to call. In the end, the winner won’t shock you, but if you’re like us, you’ll enjoy the journey more than the results. So without further ado, Let’s get ready to ruuuuuumblllle!!!
MARCH / APRIL 2016 29
CLASH OF TITANS
1 S T R OU N D Boucheron vs. Van Cleef & Arpels
Chaumet vs. Harry Winston
Cartier vs. Garrard
Belperron vs. Jean Schlumberger
Tiffany & Co. vs. Buccellati
Giuliano vs. Lalique
BOUCHERON vs. VAN CLEEF & ARPELS FRANK: With Van Cleef & Arpels, the Mystery Setting [a technique using a setting that makes the prongs invisible] is their most iconic contribution. It’s so closely associated with them, so that is where I would start. NATALIE: For Boucheron, I’m struggling to find one iconic piece, but I enjoy their colorful ’70s story. That’s what I remember the most, but I know they also did some earlier beautiful Belle Epoque pieces as well. BETH: Boucheron’s tiaras were so amazing. I actually just saw one at Wartski. Then they had whimsical pieces, like the cupids holding the heart with the rubies going through it. TANYA: I also think about some of the contemporary pieces, like the Serpent Collection. FRANK: I was just going to mention a piece because we just sold it here at Sotheby’s, but it is also part of that Impossible Collection of jewelry, that famous tribal bracelet with the malachite, ivory and purpurine. It’s not typical, but it’s an iconic jewel from Boucheron. Although I still have to
CARTIER vs. GARRARD
Above: Boucheron yellow gold, double cupid, heart-shaped diamond and ruby brooch; Below L to R: Panthère de Cartier white gold, tsavorite garnet and onyx ring; Garrard 1735 Marguerite sapphire and diamond ring
say that Van Cleef, to me, if you look at the ballerinas and you look at the fairies ... NATALIE: And the Zip necklace ... TANYA: And the Cadenas watch ... BETH: Van Cleef & Arpels has many more iconic pieces that people recognize immediately. WINNER:
Van Cleef & Arpels
CHAUMET vs. HARRY WINSTON BETH: You can’t think of Harry Winston without thinking of exquisite diamond sets. FRANK: Yeah, and Cluster earrings. BETH: But you know, Chaumet was the
David Webb vs. Verdura
second jeweler to ever do acrostic jewelry, so I love Chaumet. The smaller independent designers today are doing acrostic jewelry, and I think it’s very iconic. FRANK: I associate Chaumet with tiaras. They were the official tiara maker for decades. NATALIE: But Chaumet today isn’t Chaumet at its peak. It’s still recognizable to some extent, but people know the Winston name, and the simplicity of the designs are still copied. FRANK: I agree 100 percent, and the way Winston mounts everything on that platinum wire — we get pieces all the time where people have copied that, but he really did kind of invent that “diamonds floating on the skin” effect. And that resulted in the iconic Cluster and Wreath designs. BETH: To me it’s a split, but I’ll go with Winston if everybody else does. NATALIE: My vote’s for Winston because it’s a more powerful name today. TANYA: If we were still in a tiara moment, maybe Chaumet would be the winner. But that ship is passed for now; Winston is so iconic and people have endlessly attempted to copy them. WINNER:
Harry Winston
FRANK: Cartier. NATALIE: Cartier. BETH: Cartier. TANYA: I agree. TRACE: Let’s at least talk about Garrard and their contributions. BETH: Weren’t they the jeweler who did the English crown jewels for so long? That was a major contribution. But with Cartier, you can name five iconic pieces in a split second, and by different designers.
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Bulgari vs. Castellani
FRANK: Tutti Frutti and Panther and Mystery Clocks and ... BETH: Even the Love Bracelet, I mean look how many things came from the Love Bracelet. TRACE: Maybe we should save some things to say about Cartier for later rounds because I have a feeling they are going to show up again. WINNER
Cartier
THE BIG STORY
TIFFANY & CO. vs. BUCCELLATI NATALIE: Buccellati has a distinct signature style, but I can’t necessarily name a single piece that is iconic. It’s more their aesthetic that is known. Maybe the Hawaii earrings everyone knows, but that’s not even scratching the surface of the exceptional jewelry that they make. But my vote is Tiffany on this one. They made jewelry under their own name, but they also invited designers like Schlumberger, Claflin and Louis Comfort Tiffany, and they let the designers use their names for Tiffany. So they got a wonderful breadth of jewelry design, and each designer has iconic pieces. FRANK: I agree. Tiffany is the jack of all trades. You don’t associate any one style of jewelry with Tiffany; they did them all well. They did deco well, they did retro well. But for me, it all comes down to the six-prong engagement ring and how Tiffany has dominated the most important piece of jewelry a woman owns. NATALIE: That’s what my husband said!
Left: Belperron Spire cuff with light green beryl; Right: Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co., France 18K gold, platinum, coral and diamond Drapé bracelet (courtesy of Sotheby’s)
BELPERRON vs. JEAN SCHLUMBERGER NATALIE: I love this matchup. I find that Suzanne Belperron is not as recognizable to the public as Schlumberger, but Belperron broke with tradition during the art deco period and was a female designer among all male jewelers. Her use of materials was so uncommon; she broke the mold of what was considered traditional for jewelry. That daring and bold design has carried throughout the 20th century into the 21st. She has set the stage for totally different, never-done-before settings for materials. BETH: But I think there are more iconic jewels coming from Jean Schlumberger. There were the dolphins and the orchids ... NATALIE: And Bird On A Rock. FRANK: And all the enamel bangles. BETH: And the fact that Jackie Kennedy
wore those enamel bangles and Audrey Hepburn wore those enamel bangles. FRANK: They’re so different in style but so equal in contribution, and yet I lean towards Schlumberger only because he was more famous and made so much more jewelry. TANYA: How important is it to have a signature style? Because Belperron did so much in so many different materials and was so adventurous, but you can also spot Schlumberger as soon as you see it. FRANK: In term of iconic design, we can all name the Schlumberger designs, but because Belperron was working much more geometrically and in a modern fashion, her pieces weren’t whimsical; she doesn’t do animals and that kind of a thing, so I think she’s a tougher row to hoe because of her design philosophy, even though I really believe they are absolutely equal in their accomplishment. WINNER:
Jean Schlumberger
WINNER:
Tiffany & Co.
GIULIANO vs. LALIQUE René Lalique
BETH: I think René Lalique was the most creative designer of all time. TANYA: When you think of art nouveau, you think of Lalique. FRANK: Yeah I agree, a real visionary genius. Carlo Giuliano was much more of a historian, and they are very different, even though they are kind of lumped together because of the time period. BETH: Lalique was the art nouveau period and everybody followed in his wake. There were other brilliant designers of the time period, but you think of it and you go, “Oh,
SUZANNE BELPERRON’S USE OF MATERIALS WAS SO UNCOMMON, SHE BROKE THE MOLD OF WHAT WAS CONSIDERED TRADITIONAL FOR JEWELRY.” Natalie Betteridge MARCH / APRIL 2016 31
THE BIG STORY
QUA RT E R F I NA L S Van Cleef & Arpels vs. Harry Winston
Cartier vs. Jean Schlumberger
Tiffany & Co. vs. Lalique
Verdura vs. Bulgari
VAN CLEEF & ARPELS vs. HARRY WINSTON BETH: Van Cleef and Arpels. NATALIE: Van Cleef. FRANK: It goes back to all the different iconic designs that Van Cleef & Arpels did. As much as we love Winston, it’s just limited to this stone-intensive style. NATALIE: The design style that has become iconic to Harry Winston is incredible, but it kind of stops there. Van Cleef, just like Cartier, you can make a huge list of their different styles throughout the 20th and into the 21st century. Every era, they produce truly iconic, recognizable designs. FRANK: Even what we’ve sold recently at Sotheby’s, the Ganna Walska brooch with the 100-carat briolette or the Queen Nazli necklace that we just sold last year, those are just iconic, one-of-a-kind pieces by Van Cleef, whereas at Winston, you can name famous stones, but they didn’t make them, they just bought them. WINNER:
Van Cleef & Arpels
CARTIER vs. JEAN SCHLUMBERGER NATALIE: Cartier has way more iconic designs and pieces, and the breadth, throughout the entire 20th century, is mind-blowing. You have the Machine Age bracelet they did in the 30s, but you also have their beautiful platinum and diamond deco style. You couldn’t get further away in terms of look, but they’re from the same design house. BETH: And then you go to Tutti Frutti. And that’s all within the first half of the 20th century! And then you have all the Panther styles and on and on. TRACE: Poor Schlumberger, he was only one guy! TANYA: He only has two hands!
Clockwise from top left: Van Cleef & Arpels emerald and diamond ring set in 18K gold; Harry Winston diamond cluster chandelier earrings; Lalique ring in 18K gold, opal, diamonds, black spinels, white mother of pearl and hematite; Elsa Peretti for Tiffany Bone cuff in ruthenium over copper
BETH: He did have his own design studio in Paris and he designed for Tiffany, but still, what Cartier has produced is a huge breadth of work. WINNER:
Cartier
TIFFANY & CO. vs. LALIQUE BETH: Lalique. NATALIE: I think Lalique. TANYA: You said Lalique? Whoa. NATALIE: Because when I think of Tiffany,
aside from their engagement rings, I think of all the other designers who designed for Tiffany, not the brand itself. BETH: Right, you think of Elsa Peretti and Paloma Picasso and Schlumberger. NATALIE: Or Louis Comfort. While the engagement ring is brilliant, it doesn’t make me very excited. BETH: Lalique was all about breaking with tradition and creating new rules and being rebellious. That’s what I think we look for in new designers today, so I think that work continues to influence. FRANK: I still lean towards Tiffany on this one. They’ve really covered every single possible base through the history of their house.
MARCH / APRIL 2016 33
l iPIHTI :D
NATALIE: Lalique was incredibly prolific. But if we're talking about breadth, then I have to agree with Frank in that Tiffany continued to evolve; they did bring on these designers, but ultimately they were under the Tiffany name. Lalique was brilliant, but within a certain timeframe. TANYA: I think that when we look at contemporary fashion or jewelry, we are very enamored of the "collabo;' and Tiffany did that with Elsa Peretti and Schlumberger and others. Just the fact that Tiffany was the creator of that six prong engagement ring. That in itself is such an iconic piece; if there is any piece of fine jewelry that a woman is going to have, that will be it. I don't know that we can victimize Tiffany for giving credit to designers for their creations; it's kind of admirable.
TOliW\~IENT
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Tiffany C &Co.
Harry V
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Jean Schlu
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SEMIFINALS
w1N N E R, Tiffany Br Co.
VERDURAvs. BULGARI
Tiffany &Co.
TIFFANY & CO. vs. BULGARI
-
NATALIE: Bulgari has been around along time. As Frank said, they defined their style and evolved over time and they are still evolving today. BETH: They really did change with the decade. Whereas Verdura redesigned what they'd already done, and yes they are doing beautiful updates of the archival pieces, but they are still updates on the archival pieces rather than brand new. FRANK: Agreed.
w1N N E R, Bulgari
Serpenti Tubogas bracelet in 18K pink gold with pave diamonds
-
NATALIE: The same points that we had for Tiffany winning over Lalique, also apply h ere. There has just been more impact from Tiffany than Bulgari due to the breadth of design that they've had. In addition to Schlumberger, there's also Angela Cummings, and Louis Comfort Tiffany was fantastic, and one of my favorites is Paulding Farnham, the lost genius. FRANK: And you have to give them credit for creating the market for signed jewelry in sterling silver. That's something they invented, making it more accessible to get a signed piece of jewelry from a design house. NATALIE: And creating their own color. Bulgari has done a wonderful job of pro moting the collections that have become iconic, the Serpentis are incredibly h ot items right now, as well as their coin jewelry and gem-set pieces. But, Tiffany gets my vote.
w1N N E R, Tiffany Br Co.
VANCLEEF &ARPELS vs. CARTIER
-
FRANK: Oh my God.
BETH: I mean how do you decide? They both had such an incredible influence. FRANK: They both managed to reinvent themselves, and they've dominated different decades at different times, and they've both had a strong presence in the '60s and the '70s and '80s and today. But to make the case for Cartier, they have not only dominated certain periods of jewelry, but then they also have their objets d'art and clocks and watches. BETH: Even their cigarette cases were so amazing! NATALIE: I feel like there are more collectible items that Cartier made. VCA made great collectibles, but Cartier gives you more to choose from, I guess you could say.
w1N N E R, Cartier Above: Tank Louis Cartier watch with quartz movement, 18K yellow gold case and alligator-skin strap 34 MARCH / APR I L 20 16
MEET THE EXPERTS
F I NA L S CARTIER vs.TIFFANY & CO. TRACE: Well we knew it had to happen: Two heavyweights in the ring, Cartier and Tiffany, for all the marbles. NATALIE: Cartier. BETH: Cartier. FRANK: The quality has just been so continuously sustained for over a hundred years. I don’t think there’s been a time that it’s dipped. Even if the piece isn’t in great condition, it still holds its value when it’s Cartier. It’s almost like the signature is what you’re buying because it just means so much. Whereas occasionally from all the houses we’ve discussed, if it’s not in great condition, you won’t see the price go through the roof, but Cartier, it’s going to do well at auction because there is nothing more collectible in our world. TANYA: Can I play devil’s advocate? I mean we are talking as a bunch of people who are really in love with jewelry, but there is a reason that tourists come and
WINNER AND CHAMPION
take pictures in front of Tiffany & Co. So if you think of it as a cultural icon, does Tiffany get points?
BETH: Well, I think that all happened because of Breakfast at Tiffany’s. Obviously it was iconic because of the jewels, too, but I really think what pushed it to people wanting to get their picture taken in front of it was the blue box, which people want, but also the film. FRANK: Remember, Tiffany didn’t really become a global brand until after the ’60s. They didn’t open their second store until 1962 or 1963 in San Francisco, so up until that time, it was one store in New York City, whereas Cartier was already in London, in New York, with a much more global brand appealing to the maharajas and royalty in Asia and all over the world.
Cartier
Cartier Love bracelet in 18K pink gold and diamonds
Tiffany bracelet in 18K gold with rose-cut diamonds and rock crystal
FRANK EVERETT is the vice president and sales director for the jewelry division of Sotheby’s and the host of “Frank’s Files,” a fun, educational video series featuring vintage jewelry from the Sotheby’s auctions. He previously worked for Harry Winston, David Yurman, Tiffany & Co., and Bulgari.
NATALIE BETTERIDGE is the founder of Jewels du Jour, a blog dedicated to the discovery and exploration of important jewelry. She is also the social media manager at jewelry retailer Betteridge and a former professional figure skater.
BETH BERNSTEIN is the author of three books: If These Jewels Could Talk, Jewelry’s Shining Stars and My Charmed Life. She is a former jewelry designer, consultant and contributing writer/editor of many industry and consumer publications, including INSTORE and INDESIGN.
TANYA DUKES is a senior editor with INDESIGN and INSTORE and formerly held editorial positions with both BRIDES Magazine and Elite Traveler. She is the recipient of the WJA Award for Excellence in Editorial (2010) and is the only SmartWork Media editor with a law degree.
TRACE SHELTON is the editor-in-chief of INDESIGN Magazine, a role he took on when the publication launched in 2007. He crawls out of bed each morning a slave to a singular passion: To tell the wonderful stories of jewelry designers.
MARCH / APRIL 2016 35
THE JOY BEHIND THE JEWELS
STORIES CRUSH PAGE 40 | NEXT PAGE 42
USE PAGE 44
SPAC E
Wabi-Sabi Inside
Yasuko Azuma’s Brooklyn studio finds beauty in flaws and impermanence. PAGE 46
FI N A L E
Beauty Isn’t Optional Combine gemmy riches with creativity and you get a daily source of delight. PAGE 50
ARMAN SARKISYAN
s e h c sket
BAROQUE CURVES AND INTRICATE DETAILS MARK HIS LATEST
I wanted to make things as if they were made 100 years ago, by hand.”
Pearl ring in 22K gold and silver with pearl and rose-cut diamonds, and rosary necklace in 22K gold and silver with rose-cut diamonds, both by Arman Sarkisyan. The finished pieces will debut in summer 2016. armansarkisyan.com
DESIGNER SYLVA YEPREMIAN
MARCH / APRIL 2016 37
STYLES
LIVES GETTING TO KNOW YOUR FAVORITE DESIGNERS
AMEDEO
SCOGNAMIGLIO The cameo king explains how the Italian Renaissance and Sex and the City helped launched two jewelry brands
When jewelry is in your blood, sometimes one line just isn’t enough. STORY BY TRACE SHELTON
That’s why Amedeo Scognamiglio launched his own cameobased line, Amedeo, in 2006, even though he and best-friendturned-business-partner Roberto Faraone Mennella already had a high-end Italian gold brand they’d begun in 2001 named Faraone Mennella. Says Scognamiglio: “Faraone’s competitors are houses like Buccellati and Verdura, while
38 MARCH / APRIL 2016
Amedeo is shown in magazines next to Stephen Webster and Loree Rodkin. This is our most important acknowledgement.” Scognamiglio got his start carving cameos in his family basement in Torre del Greco, Italy, at the age of 16. Years later, while selling his family’s cameo jewelry in New York, he teamed with former schoolmate Faraone Mennella to create the gold line. Sex and the City stylist Patricia Field put the duo’s jewelry on Kim Cattrall and the rest is history. “It’s been a fun, very busy 15 years,” Scognamiglio says. “Our knowledge of the industry has helped us to push two brands to the height of their segments.”
QUICK HITTERS
FAVORITE MUSIC?
Classical DESIGNER THAT INSPIRES YOU?
Castellani FAVORITE TV SHOW?
The Golden Girls and Homeland
Q & A WITH
AMEDEO SCOGNAMIGLIO
What is so special about the cameo form? “Cameos are only made in this very small town called Torre del Greco. No others are made anywhere else, not even copies. I love the idea of something that’s completely hand-carved. You start with a seashell and you finish with a Michelangelostyle woman’s profile. I love the baroque and the renaissance and the romanticism; that’s Italy at its best.”
Favorite place to visit? “I love Greece and spending a few weeks each summer there. It’s very simple; the ocean and the island are nice. To be honest, I like to go where there are no luxury stores — I don’t like to be reminded of what I do when I’m on vacation.”
extroverted
Favorite food to cook? “Most of my entertaining is done at home. I’ve been a vegetarian for five years, almost vegan, and I’m very aware of superfoods and nutrients. My meals are colorful, lots of vegetables, but I make a killer pasta.”
Comedy (though I realize mystery is sexier: I prefer to be the one who makes you laugh)
How do you split your time between the two brands? “Whether I’m designing a beautiful cameo ring with a monkey or a diamond pinky ring in gold, it doesn’t change the process. If I tried to split my “Of course it’s time in efficient schedules for each brand, it a business for wouldn’t be creative enough for me.” me, but it’s also How did the Faraone Mennella line take off so quickly? “We were selected by Patricia Field for Sex and the City. That propelled us to the cover of WWD before we even knew what it was. That first year, we never had to call one store. They called us.”
a moral obligation after six generations to keep this tradition alive.”
What is inspiring your next collection? “I call it Botanica. It’s a series of bejeweled rings, very intricate, shanked with gemstones. It’s all cameos inspired by insects and bugs and flowers and butterflies. They’re set in a ring under a rock crystal, which magnifies the carving. It’s a new technique that took me over a year even to have the rock crystal cut just right. It’s a whole world in a ring.”
How do you relax after a long day of work? “Transcendental meditation. I also do Crossfit and yoga. I’m 43 now. A few years ago, I decided I come first. There’s no excuse not to go to the gym. Everything else can be postponed unless it’s life-threatening.”
Do you have a secret talent? “I like to write poems. Last year, I wrote a song, almost as a joke, called ‘Capri Girl’ that was performed at our annual event in Capri. It will be on ITunes in a few months. It’s very pop, very cool, sexy and young. The mayor of Capri honored it.” What’s the best advice you’ve ever received? “My friend Patricia Field, a celebrated costume designer and a very intelligent philosopher said, ‘Don’t ever listen to others. Look in the street at what women are wearing. Don’t let anyone but the client tell you what to do.’”
INTROVERT OR EXTROVERT? Very
COMEDY OR MYSTERY?
DANCING OR SINGING?
Both at the same time SUNRISE OR SUNSET?
Sunset, on a beach FICTION OR NONFICTION?
Non-fiction (I read biographies, philosophy and history) WORDSWORTH OR WHITMAN?
Baudelaire
18MM SARDONIC CAMEO ON BLACK RHODIUM STERLING SILVER PENDANT FEATURING “MONKEYDEO” with gold insert and diamond, made in Italy. $5,500 | 25MM HAND-CARVED SARDONYX CAMEO FEATURING “ROBODEO,” set with pink sapphires, black diamonds, citrines or white diamonds on a black rhodium sterling silver ring, made in Italy. Starting at $2,000 | 25MM HAND-CARVED SARDONYX CAMEO ON BLACK RHODIUM STERLING SILVER RING, made in Italy. Starting at $1,300
MARCH / APRIL 2016 39
STYLES
LIVES GETTING TO KNOW YOUR FAVORITE DESIGNERS
S TO R I E S
CRUSH ONE JEWELRY FAN’S FAVORITE BAUBLES
Q & A WITH
KALI HAWK When did you start collecting jewelry? “I was 2 or 3 years old when my father brought me a pair of diamond earrings. I was playing with the box and loved watching them sparkle. The funny thing is, my ears weren’t even pierced yet. That moment taught me that luxury does not have to be practical. It just has to be fun!” How would you define your jewelry style?
KALI HAWK COMEDIC
THE ACTRESS BELIEVES “LUXURY SHOULD BE FUN” NO, YOU’RE NOT MISTAKEN; you probably recognize the hip, beautiful young woman in this photo from her appearances in films and on TV. Her name is Kali Hawk, and she has appeared in Bridesmaids, Couples Retreat, Peeples and Get Him to the Greek. She also has a recurring role in the Fox comedy New Girl, and currently stars in Cartoon Network’s Black Jesus as Mary Magdalene. Named one of Glamour Magazine’s “12 Funny Women to Watch,” Kali recently returned to the big screen with a starring role in Fifty Shades of Black opposite Marlon Wayans and Jane Seymour. In addition to her acting career, Kali is also a serious jewelry collector. Whether it be Goth-style knuckle rings or the more delicate antique pieces she wears every day, she definitely has a jones for jewelry. STORY BY BETH BERNSTEIN
40 MARCH / APRIL 2016
“Sometimes I think I am more of a modern girl, but when I look through my collection, it seems that I’m more of an antique collector. I have an Iberian breast pendant from the 1600s in 24K gold with table-cut diamonds and many pieces of diamond jewelry from the Georgian through the art deco periods. But, I also wear modern designs with an Old World feel and love my Sevan Biçakçi rings because of how ancient and regal they look.” What is your favorite jewelry to collect? “Necklaces, from statement styles in diamond to longer pendants. And rings! I can wear them on every finger. I have a number of art deco rings — band rings scattered with diamonds and also engraved and pierced diamond rings in platinum. The brilliant designer Marianna H. created a gold crown for my head (a motif which I love), which inspired me to create some crown-style rings for myself, which then turned into a small jewelry line.”
me before we decided to collaborate on the ring collection, which we called H. Crowne (named simply for our obsession with crowns, and our last names that both start with ‘H’).” Any other favorites?
Kali wears her Roberto Coin necklace and H. Crowne knuckle rings What is the most sentimental piece you own? “There are quite a few, but I do wear a Donut ring made for me by Tendenza Jewelry almost every day. It’s solid 18K gold and is so thick it weighs a ton! It has a matte finish and there’s an internally flawless 0.50-carat diamond set into the gold for extra
sparkle. It’s the first and only one of its kind, and it’s definitely brought me good luck. I’ve been offered four movies since the day I started wearing it!” What is your favorite piece in your personal collection? “My ultimate favorite piece is the gold crown Marianna made for
“Yes, the Midnight Star necklace by Roberto Coin. It has 16.5 carats of diamonds and is set in 18K white gold. I wore it every day for a year, and even slept in it. In fact, I’m wearing it now!” Is there a great story behind any of your pieces? “My Roberto Coin necklace. It features 49 diamond stars. A while ago, there was an 8.65-carat version I saw and fell in love with, but something told me to wait. I always listen to my instincts. The next day, someone else purchased it and I felt like I’d made a huge mistake
not snapping it up. Months went by and it was constantly on my mind, so finally I decided to just call and special order it. Every time I planned to call, something came up. I had a quick trip to Chicago, and guess who was having a trunk show at the same time I was there? Yes! Roberto Coin. When I saw the piece, I screamed out, ‘That’s my necklace!’ It looked even better than I remembered — and it was — as I doubled the carat weight. Every time I wear the necklace, it reminds me that God always has bigger and better things in store for us than we can imagine at the time. How rad is that?” Any pieces that were heirlooms handed down to you? “Not in the traditional sense. But I believe that by wearing a lot of antique pieces, I’m keeping the legacy of the jewelry alive.”
S TO R I E S
CRUSH ONE JEWELRY FAN’S FAVORITE BAUBLES
STYLES
NEXT FINE JEWELRY’S RISING STARS
New York, NY pamelalove.com
PAMELA
LOVE
TOUGH YET FEMININE. Rigid yet fluid. Cutting-edge yet softly curved. These seeming opposites blend wonderfully in Pamela Love’s collection, naturally creating palpable energy in each bracelet, earring and ring. Love began making jewelry in high school as a hobby, and her friends loved her aesthetic so much that it became
WHAT THE JUDGES SAY 5 In each issue, INDESIGN will feature one of five top emerging jewelry designers for 2016. These creators were chosen by a panel of four respected jewelry retailers and media experts.
“She had me at ‘Talon Cuff.’ I love a designer whose creations can be called both ‘menacing’ and ‘beautiful.’ Using edgyyet-elegant silhouettes like daggers, arrows and serpents, her jewelry has that rare quality of being both trendy and timeless. Her one-of-a-kind arrowhead pieces are covetworthy.” — Laura Parker, content manager, Jewelry.com
a business almost by accident. “A friend of mine had a friend who owned a store, and she wanted the jewelry,” Love says. “Then another store saw it and wanted it, and then one of my friends who worked for a magazine wanted to borrow it. So it happened really organically.” Officially launched in 2007 out of her Brooklyn apartment, Love’s fashion line exploded in popularity, its motifs ranging from nature and science to magic and folk jewelry. The company grew
“Love’s bohemian aesthetic is wellrepresented in her fine jewelry collection. These are perfect pieces for collectors who want a refined touch juxtaposed with her earth mama style.” — Jennifer Gandia, co-owner, Greenwich Jewelers (New York, NY)
to the point that Love was able to open a full production facility and design studio in Manhattan’s Garment District, and in 2014, Love added a fine collection. Her latest inspirations come from the worlds of art and engineering: “We’ve been looking at a lot of architecture and suspension bridges, as well as sculptures from Noguchi, J.B. Blunk, Constantin Brâncuși, Saloua Raouda Chouchair, and an amazing ceramicist named Toshiko Takaezu.” — STORY BY TRACE SHELTON
“Pamela Love has been designing jewelry for almost a decade in the costume arena. It was a thrill when she added fine to her repertoire. The deluxe look of her signature motifs maintain all the cool girl vibes she is famous for and gain a splash of glamour with precious materials.” — Marion Fasel, founder and editorial director, The Adventurine
“Almost all of her jewelry production is done in-house at her studio, using sustainable methods whenever possible, which only makes me love her more.” — Laura Freedman, founder, Broken English (Santa Monica, CA; New York, NY)
FIVE SPIKE EARRINGS in 18K yellow gold with bezel set turquoise cabochon studs and pavé full-cut white diamond spikes (1.16 TCW), $5,000 | MOON PHASE COLLAR in 18K yellow gold with pavé full-cut white diamonds (0.65 TCW) surrounding lapis inlay, $16,000 | OPAL ARROWHEAD RING in 18K yellow gold, opal and pavé full-cut white diamonds, $8,800 | MOON PHASE EAR CLIMBER in 18K rose gold with pavé full-cut white diamonds, $1,000
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S TO R I E S
MUSE INSPIRATIONS OF TODAY’S MOST IMAGINATIVE COLLECTIONS
f moT i s BY SYLVA & CIE CARVED SPIRITUAL AND ANCIENT SYMBOLS INSPIRE JEWELS THAT BOTH EMBODY AND SPARK IMAGINATION EIGHT YEARS AGO, Sylva Yepremian had an epiphany: She was done running in the rat race (which happened to be a gold wholesaling business). It was time to go back to making jewelry she was proud of, something she could put her name on. “I wanted to make pieces of art that elevate design and showcase the workmanship of the gemstone setter and carver,” she says. The result was Sylva & Cie, a line of limited edition, one-off pieces handcrafted in Los Angeles and sold by respected jewelers like Stanley Korshak, Twist, Richards, and London Jewelers. Yepremian, a Lebanonborn, Paris-raised, California transplant, learned jewelry-making from her father, a master jeweler who worked a decade for Cartier. “I wanted to make things as if they were made 100 years ago, by hand,” she says. “I wanted to bring it back to that be-
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spoke era where someone could walk into a jewelry store and find something that was built to showcase a stone.” Her most recent carvings reflect a symbolic sensibility rooted in the Georgian era. “It was the most romantic era in jewelry,” Yepremian says. “People were not open with their emotions. There was a secret behind the romance. The jewelry said it all for them.” Motifs like birds (which symbolized homecoming), wings (freedom, an angel watching over you), evil eyes (warding off evil), and scarabs (resurrection) resonate with Yepremian and, in turn, her clientele. “We’ve lost some of our connection with jewelry; it becomes so ornamental,” Yepremian says. “You just buy a pair of green earrings to go with your green dress. It needs to be more than that.” STORY BY TRACE SHELTON
L-R: Hand-carved petrified wood Wing pendant in 18K yellow gold with champagne diamonds (2.35 TCW). $16,000. Location: Stanley Korshak, Dallas, TX | Hand-carved turquoise Swallow pendant in 18K yellow gold with round brilliant cut diamonds (0.90 TCW) and 0.56-carat black diamond. $22,250. Location: Clarke’s Jewelry, Shreveport, LA | Handcarved opal Scarab pendant in 18K yellow gold with old Europeancut diamonds (1.82 TCW) and blue opal (1.66 TCW). $23,000. Location: Mitchells, Westport, CT | Hand-carved opal Buddha pendant in 18K yellow gold with champagne diamonds (2.75 TCW) and turquoise beads. $19,750. Location: Stanley Korshak, Dallas, TX | Hand-carved opal Eye pendant in 18K yellow gold and oxidized sterling silver with round brilliant cut diamonds (0.11 TCW). $5,500. Location: Twist, Portland, OR
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STORY BY TANYA DUKES
TURQUOISE JEWELRY DESIGNERS ARE IN A blue mood , AND THAT’S A GOOD THING.
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AT THE 2015 ACADEMY AWARDS, Cate Blanchett was outfitted in the most talked about jewel of the evening. In a sea of goose egg-sized diamonds and vintage treasures, her unexpected choice, a vivid bib necklace dominated by turquoise beads, instantly placed the gemstone squarely at the center of the fashion crowd’s consciousness. What a difference a year makes. Designers of every stripe have taken to turquoise, adapting the material to their individual aesthetics. Marie-Juliette Bird, founder of Blackbird and the Snow, favors the Persian variety for its robin’s egg blue tone. She sets tiny hand-cut cabochons of the material into winsome yellow and rose gold charms shaped liked moons, stars and insects. The Victorian-inspired pieces are proof positive that turquoise can be used in jewelry of delicate scale just as easily as translucent, faceted stones. Bird isn’t alone in using mini-turquoise elements in her designs: Jennifer Meyer has created pendants that outline a single initial in a string of turquoise cabochons, while Ginette NY and Larisa Laivins incorporate them into geometric, multi-stone designs.
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Lika Behar has always been a proponent for turquoise and even offers a collection dubbed Turquoise Therapy. She appreciates more than one type of the stone. Though its rarity makes it hard to come by, she’s “drawn to the pure blue and blue-green hues offered by gem-quality Sleeping Beauty turquoise from Arizona.” She also admires Kingman turquoise, which has “beautiful brownish veins that are naturally complemented by high-karat gold and champagne colored diamonds.” It’s a logical fit for her collection of elegant, haute bohemian pieces. Zaiken Jewelry designer Malak Atut encourages her clients to consider turquoise a stone that they can wear at any time of year. And instead of focusing only on the purity of color in the stone, she considers the “veins and lines that exist in the stones part of what makes each piece of turquoise special.” She often punctuates those features with scattered diamond accents — her signature “throwing stones” technique. What’s most important is that shoppers give jewelry featuring the blue gem a try because, says Atut, “I’ve never met anyone who doesn’t look amazing in turquoise.”
1. ZAIKEN THROWING STONES one-of-a-kind 18K yellow gold, turquoise and diamond collar, $6,550, zaikenjewelry. com | 2. BLACKBIRD & THE SNOW stud earrings in 14K rose gold with Persian turquoise, $430 each (sold individually), blackbirdandthesnow.com | 3. RAY GRIFFITHS 18K yellow gold and turquoise earrings, $2,850, raygriffiths.com | 4. LIKA BEHAR 24K gold and oxidized silver oval Kingman turquoise Pompeii ring, $550, likabehar.com | 5. ZOË CHICCO 14K turquoise and diamond cuff, $1,230, zoechicco.com
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ROCKS GEMSTONES SHAKING UP STYLE
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SPACE INSIDE THE STUDIOS OF TODAY’S TOP DESIGNERS
yasukoazuma.com
A handmade mirror stands ready for visiting clients while vintage jewelry cases and wooden shelving set a serene mood.
YASUKO
azuma
JEWELRY
JAPANESE ASTHETICS MEET THE EPICENTER OF BROOKLYN’S GENTRIFYING REVIVAL STORY BY TANYA DUKES
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Like many New Yorkers, designer Yasuko Azuma (along with her husband and business partner Richard Ito) decamped from Manhattan for extra breathing room, or at least a window — something that her original studio space didn’t have. Just over five years ago, the pair crossed the East River and alighted upon Williamsburg, the neighborhood at the epicenter of Brooklyn’s gentrifying revival. Their new location, a storefront that’s a sliver of a much larger building — a former textile factory — is blink-and-you-miss-it subtle. The quiet façade doesn’t carry a sign with the designer’s name, though an industrious street artist has sprayed the security gate with the tag “Love Drunk” in black lettering. (It looms over the entrance during
business hours when the metal barrier is raised.) With its position on a side street just off one of the area’s main shopping drags and a minute’s walk from the waterfront, the studio is both at a remove from and easily accessible to the buzz of the city. Inside, there’s a mood of industrial-chic serenity. It was the first site the pair considered
when they began their outer-bortive accessories — a giant strand ough hunt, and a “calm environof wooden beads that drapes over ment that’s suitable for designing a single dark wall, art printed and consulting with clients,” with the phrase “every day I love says Ito. The room you” — come courtesy is bathed in creamy of friends and fellow white-gray paint to artists at brand Sugarthe top of its 14-foot boo Designs. The only ceilings. Bisected by a spot of bright color in gauzy curtain, the first the room comes from space one encounters a small, beet red sofa upon entering is an where visiting clients area for welcoming can grab a seat. visitors and showing Intentionally spare Azuma’s work. It’s and minimal, the déYasuko Azuma punctuated with a tall cor is in keeping with wooden bookcase, a the Japanese concept handful of vintage metal display of wabi-sabi, an aesthetic princases filled with jewels — some ciple that finds beauty in flaws propped open with bits of tree and impermanence. According to branches or decorated with small Ito, wabi-sabi requires “eliminatbunches of moss. A few decoraing everything that’s unnecessary
[EVERYTHING IS ELIMINATED] THAT’S UNNECESSARY TO EXPRESSING YOURSELF.” Richard Ito
to expressing yourself.” Getting down to the essentials is a notion that’s apparent in Sapporo-born Azuma’s jewelry. Since launching her eponymous brand in 2003, she’s been known for rings, especially for weddings, which feature natural colored diamonds — inclusions and all. The designer clearly harbors affection for gems with one-of-a-kind, if imperfect, qualities. And rather than focus on intricate flourishes, Azuma creates pieces with restrained lines and individually textured and pierced surfaces. Her signature “diamond dust” finish is the result of a fine hammering technique that gives metal radiance and a softly puckered look. “We don’t do big decoration,” she admits.
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SPACE INSIDE THE STUDIOS OF TODAY’S TOP DESIGNERS
ANTIQUE N
STYLES
THEN HISTORY’S MOST INFLUENTIAL JEWELRY
ACROSTIC
ROMANCE
SPELL OUT YOUR AFFECTIONS OR A BELOVED’S NAME IN A SERIES OF GEMSTONES
LEAVE IT TO MODERN JEWELERS Jessica McCormack and Lulu Frost to one-up the acrostic jewels of old. These contemporary designers are not only revisiting the romantic language of conveying terms of endearment, names and important dates in the arrangement of vivid gemstones, but are expanding on the theme. The renowned jewelry house Chaumet, which designed some of the earliest and famous acrostic pieces in Napoleonic times, as well as Verdura, whose namesake gave acrostics a new take in the mid-20th century, are also reinventing them today for contemporary customers. Acrostic jewelry dates back to 18th century France, when Jean-Baptiste Mellerio cleverly invented spelling out words, dates and names with the first letter of gemstones to express sentiments. Many of these were gifts for Napoleon’s family. Chaumet created its original acrostic pieces during this period —
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bracelets for Joséphine de Beauharnais that spelled the names of her children, and later for Empress Marie-Louise spelling the names of Napoleon and Marie and marking the date of their first meeting. The Victorians, who loved a good romance, took quickly to this poetic way of relating emotions. The most popular words included regard (ruby, emerald, garnet, amethyst, ruby, diamond), adore and dearest. Antique acrostic rings are snapped up as soon as they are found, and the more intricately designed lockets and brooches are even more highly collectible. Savvy designers such as London’s McCormack and New York’s Lulu Frost have figured out how to modernize styling and evolve this personalized concept by adding more gemstones to celebrate a host of occasions as well as the more traditional meanings of love. In a time when individuality reigns, long live romance and symbolism. STORY BY BETH BERNSTEIN
ANTIQUE L-R: Macklowe Gallery’s English Victorian 15K gold REGARD bracelet, circa 1860. macklowegallery.com, PRICE ON REQUEST | Bentley & Skinner’s Georgian heartshaped locket pendant with floral motif spelling the word Regard and suspended from a gold chain, circa 1820. bentley-skinner.co.uk, $6,000 | The Three Graces Fine Jewelry’s Victorian Dearest ring, circa 1880. georgianjewelry.com, $3,550 | NEW L-R: Jessica McCormack Love Letters Sweetheart ring with various precious stones and diamonds, set in 18K gold. jessicamccormack. com, $4,643 | Verdura’s Dear bangle, based on Fulco di Verdura’s first take on the popular Victorian custom of spelling romantic sentiments in gemstones. verdura.com, $52,500 | Lulu Frost’s CODE Words Collection Dearest 18K gold necklace. lulufrost.com, $1,980
A DV E RT I S E R’ S I N DE X CONTACT LIST
Alex Sepkus
FOPE S.P.A.
Oscar Heyman
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T (212) 391-8466 F (212) 819-0709 W alexsepkus.com
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Goldstein Diamonds Inc.
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Bellarri International
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BACK COVER
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I.Reiss Co. Inc. PAGE 3
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FINALE DEVOTEES SHARE WHAT JEWELRY MEANS TO THEM
beauty
IS NOT OPTIONAL BY
Zdena Jiroutova
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That is what great designer jewelry is: lasting beauty that we carry with us.”
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HAT DO YOU GET when you combine nature’s gemmy riches in an endless array of colors with the finest of human creativity and mastery? You get a daily source of delight. Designer jewelry is personal art that helps us express who we are. But deeper than that, art, beauty, self-expression, confidence, connection, generosity, happiness — all these begin inside and radiate out. Designer jewelry encourages the expression of these personal qualities. I find that designer jewelry opens the door to a world of creativity, innovation and artistic expression. Great design touches me deeply. It gives vitality to our intrinsic harmony, balance, shape, color, texture, the way light dances with us as we move throughout our day. Great design is as much a way of life as it is the obvious physical qualities, and I have the privilege of savoring this experience every day. I have meaningful relationships with wonderful artists from all over the world. We work closely to discover what drives them and why they do what they do so well. We fall in love with their creations and spend our days playing matchmaker with everyone who stops by. Artists tell us that their creations are not complete until
they find their home. They say that each design calls to a specific person or type of person. Something magical happens. Like Pinocchio, the work of art comes alive when it finds its destined wearer, and I am a part of this process. At ZFolio, we have a saying that beauty isn’t optional. Imagine a life without sunsets or drops on the window after it rains; tulips, birds singing, or the way leaves dance in the air. Life is beauty, and that is what our artists capture and express. Designer jewelry brings beauty into our lives in a very intimate and personal way. Who would
not love that? As each of our clients leaves feeling uplifted by the match we helped create, we are uplifted by living, breathing and sharing the beauty we represent. After all, that is what great designer jewelry is: lasting beauty that we carry with us. It touches us, enriching our lives like billowing white clouds floating in a deep blue sky or the sea caressing the sand at dawn. ZDENA JIROUTOVA co-owns ZFolio Gallery, with three locations in California representing more than 70 jewelry designers. The store was voted Top Retailer of Designer Jewelry by JCK’s Design Center in 2013.