CULTURE AND COOL: THE MUSIC CENTER, THE ARTS DISTRICT, L.A. LIVE, AND DYNAMIC DINING

Downtown Los Angeles has undergone an eye-popping renaissance. Historic art deco structures share the streetscape with glass-clad towers, and celebrities have snapped up lofts in century-old buildings. The arts thrive along Grand Avenue as well as in the hip Arts District. Peacock Place is sports central; Chinatown and Olvera Street are fun cultural excursions; to the southwest, Exposition Park offers a trio of major museums.

Grand Avenue

The heart of L.A.’s performing arts scene and the site of its most dramatic architecture, Grand Avenue lives up to its name. Four venues on Bunker Hill make up the Music Center. The Dorothy Chandler Pavilion is home to LA Opera, the Ahmanson Theatre and Mark Taper Forum host theatrical productions and architect Frank Gehry’s spectacular Walt Disney Concert Hall is the home of the LA Philharmonic. Opposite is the 12-acre Grand Park with ongoing programming.

Bunker Hill

Not far from the Ahmanson Theatre is the postmodern Cathedral of Our Lady of the Angels. A short walk south on Grand is The Broad museum, a stunning edifice funded by and housing the contemporary art collection of philanthropists Eli and Edythe Broad. Angels Flight is a vintage funicular that climbs to California Plaza from Hill Street. The Bunker Hill Steps rise five stories at the U.S. Bank Tower. Across the street is the art deco-style Central Library.

Olvera Street

The city’s origins date back to 1781 and the building of El Pueblo de Los Angeles, a historic monument that comprises 27 buildings along the festive pedestrian concourse Olvera Street. The city’s oldest building, Avila Adobe is here, along with Mexican restaurants, mariachi bands, and merchants selling arts, crafts, and food. Across the street is Union Station, the largest railroad passenger terminal in the western United States; a few blocks away is L.A.’s oldest restaurant, built in 1908, Philippe the Original

Chinatown

Chinatown is the destination for dim sum—and dining at foodie meccas such as Howlin’ Ray’s for Nashville hot chicken—or browsing for clothing and home goods. Cultural highlights include the ornate Thien Hau Temple. Dodger Stadium is a short drive away, as is San Antonio Winery, which offers tours and tastings.

Arts District

To the east of emerging hipster ‘hood Little Tokyo is the Arts District, with its myriad murals, shops, and markets, the Hauser & Wirth gallery, a bevy of breweries, and lauded restaurants such as Bavel, Manuela, and Brera—not to mention Damian from world-renowned Mexico City chef Enrique Olvera.

Peacock Place

The Peacock Place entertainment complex includes the Peacock Theater, several night spots, and a dozen restaurants, including Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse, Katsuya, Savoca, and Tom’s Watch Bar, all facing a massive plaza lined with LED screens. It adjoins the Crypto.com Arena, home of the Lakers, Clippers, Sparks, and Kings and host to top pop acts. The Grammy Museum honors musicians with videos, artifacts, and exhibits.

Exposition Park

South of downtown is Exposition Park, site of the Los Angeles Memorial Coliseum—home of USC Trojans football and twice host of the Summer Olympics—as well as the California African American Museum, Natural History Museum of Los Angeles County, and California Science Center, which has a 3D IMAX theater and the NASA space shuttle Endeavour.

CLOCKWISE FROM FAR LEFT: The Broad museum; rose clove chocolate donuts at Bavel; Union Station interior; ROW DTLA shop.

City Tours

Pasadena

HOME TO THE TOURNAMENT OF ROSES, THIS SMALL-TOWN CHARM BLOOMS ALL YEAR LONG.

Pasadena’s charming small town vibe, historic buildings, and plethora of museums make it an attractive neighborhood for visitors. Walk around Old Pasadena, or as locals call it, “Old Pas” spanning across 22 blocks filled with shops and lively restaurants. For arts and entertainment lovers, there are plenty of options including an outdoor stadium where concerts and a monthly flea market are held, museums, gardens, and performing arts centers.

Old Pasadena

A tribute to foresighted urban planning is the 22-square-block shopping district known as Old Pasadena, roughly bounded by Walnut and Green streets, Arroyo Parkway and Pasadena Avenue. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, it’s a collection of restored buildings filled with trendy boutiques, bistros and nightclubs. Merchants range from Tesla Motors to Zara, and eateries include Union, a top-rated Italian restaurant. Pedestrian-only alleys meander through the One Colorado project in the heart of Old Pasadena, where restaurants offer alfresco dining overlooking a sculpture-strewn square. Boutiques such as Nike,

Patagonia, and Sephora draw shoppers, while iPic Theaters reimagines the moviegoing experience with state-of-theart technology, plush seats and a bar/café.

Nearby is the Norton Simon Museum, home to one of the finest art collections in the West. The galleries are filled with works dating from the Renaissance to the 20th century, and the museum’s repertoire of impressionist masters is formidable. To the north, you’ll find Rose Bowl Stadium (home to the UCLA Bruins, concerts and a popular monthly flea market) and, nearby, the interactive Kidspace Children’s Museum.

East of Old Pasadena is The Paseo, a shopping center with a Regal cinemas movie theater, restaurants and shops lining garden promenades.

Its open-air design frames views of Pasadena City Hall, a majestic landmark restored to its original beaux-arts grandeur.

PLAYHOUSE DISTRICT + SOUTH LAKE AVENUE

Anchored by the Mission-style Pasadena Playhouse, this district offers art house cinema, antique shops and bookstores, as well as the famed Ice House Comedy Club, whose stage has hosted George Carlin and Jerry Seinfeld. Other cultural attractions include the Boston Court Performing Arts Center and the USC Pacific Asia Museum.

East of the Playhouse District, South Lake Avenue provides a vibrant shopping environment. Inviting boutiques are set around Europeanstyle courtyards at the Commons and Burlington

Arcade. A drive south on Lake Avenue through one of the city’s most opulent residential neighborhood leads to the Langham Huntington. Consider this grand, historic hotel for high tea, Japanese Kobe beef at its Royce steakhouse or pampering at its award-winning Chuan Spa.

SAN MARINO + SAN GABRIEL VALLEY

South of the Langham is San Marino and its primary attraction, The Huntington, whose library, art collections, botanical gardens and education and visitor center occupy one of the most remarkable pieces of real estate in Southern California. Here, the Italianate mansion of railroad magnate Henry Huntington houses an extraordinary collection of 18th- and 19th-century art. A library with nearly 9 million rare books, photographs and manuscripts occupies another structure. Throughout the 200-acre property are more than a dozen distinct botanical environments, the Helen and Peter Bing Children’s Garden and a formal rose garden boasting more than 1,200 rose varieties.

Shrimply the Best

From the team behind Loreto and La Cha Cha Chá comes Mariscos Za Za Zá, a casual eatery in Frogtown, located in a back alley with a walk-up window for ordering. The small menu is an ode to Baja classics such as ceviche and aguachiles with a few seafood twists including a po’boy with fried calamari and shrimp-loaded fries. Wash it all down with a refreshing boozy slushy. 1995 Blake Ave., Los Angeles, zazaza.la

BEVERLY BLVD. / 3RD ST. / MELROSE AVE.

A.O.C. > Mediterranean $$$

Eatery from James Beard Awardwinning Suzanne Goin and Caroline Styne pioneered two culinary trends: the small-plates format and wine bar. Also in Brentwood. D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 8700 W. 3rd St., L.A., 310.859.9859 Map I12

AYA > Mediterranean /Israeli $$$

New. Lively lounge and restaurant with entertainment including a D.J., body painters, fire dancers and more. Reservations required. D (Fr-Sa). Sofitel Los Angeles, 8555 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 424.722.9406 Map I12

BAO DIM SUM > Chinese $$

Enjoy delicious, authentic dim sum in a relaxing, lantern-lit atmosphere. Favorites include juicy pork dumplings and shrimp shumai, followed by bao milk buns for dessert. L, D (daily). 8256 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 323.655.6556 Map I12

(V) CROSSROADS KITCHEN

> Mediterranean $$$

Chef-partner Tal Ronnen creates refined plant-based dishes, many inspired by nonvegan comfort classics. Popular dishes include the artichoke “oysters,” Impossible Cigars, plus pizzas and pastas. L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 8284 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 323.782.9245

Map H12

DRAKE’S HOLLYWOOD

> Italian/American $$

New. Classic old Hollywoodinspired restaurant from Dal- las makes its L.A. debut. Red leather booths and central bar seating. D (nightly). 8747 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 213.334.6789 Map I12

(V) GRACIAS MADRE

> Mexican/Latin $$

Creative plant-based Mexican fare and winning patio will please vegans and omnivores. L, D (daily). 8905 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 323.978.2170 Map I12

JOAN’S ON THIRD

> American $$

Busy cafe on West 3rd Street offers omelets, sandwiches, salads, soups, sweets, picnic baskets, and gourmet items. The Chinese Chicken Salad is a popular menu item. B, L, D (daily). 8350 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.655.2285 Map I12

Map locators at the end of listing (Map A3; Map

THE LITTLE DOOR

> French $$$

For a candlelit dinner in a romantic setting, this is the reservation ne plus ultra. Dine on rustic French-Mediterranean dishes under the stars. D (nightly). 8164 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.951.1210 Map I12

OSTERIA MOZZA

> Italian $$$

L.A. breadmaker Nancy Silverton partners in Mozza’s contemporary Italian spots including this sophisticated dining room. D (W-Su). 6602 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.297.0100 Map H13

PIZZERIA MOZZA

> Italian $$

Osteria Mozza’s relaxed sibling offers pizzas, salumi and rustic specials. Delivery/takeout from Mozza2Go. D (W-Su). Pizzeria Mozza: 641 N. Highland Ave., L.A., 323.297.0101. Mozza2Go: 6610 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.297.1130 Map H13

PROVIDENCE > Seafood $$$$

James Beard Award winner and Michelin-recognized chefowner Michael Cimarusti pre-