Where Los Angeles, October 2017 by California Media Group

OCTOBER 2017 SOCALPULSE.COM

PACIFIC STANDARD TIME: LA/LA

LOS ANGELES

BECAUSE YOU’VE ARRIVED

HALLOWEEN HAUNTS HAMILTON’S MICHAEL LUWOYE

art & Soul

FALL FOR YAYOI KUSAMA’S PUMPKINS AND THE SEASON'S MUST-SEE SHOWS

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HARRY POTTER characters, names and related indicia are ©are &© ™ &Warner Bros.Bros. Entertainment HARRY POTTER characters, names and related indicia ™ Warner Entertainment Inc. Harry PotterPotter Publishing Rights © JKR. (s17)(s17) The Walking DeadDead © 2017 AMCAMC Film Film Holdings Inc. Harry Publishing Rights © JKR. The Walking © 2017 Holdings LLC. LLC. All Rights Reserved. ©2017 Universal Studios. All Rights Reserved. 17-ADV-21602 All Rights Reserved. ©2017 Universal Studios. All Rights Reserved. 17-ADV-21602

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G A L E R I E

M I C H A E L

CHAGALL & THE MODERN MASTERS Join us this fall and enjoy viewing some of the greatest works by the best Twentieth Century artists in the world. This exhibition features works on paper, rare proofs, and original paintings by Chagall, Picasso, Miro, and Matisse.

Open to the public and with complimentary parking 224 NORTH RODEO DRIVE | BEVERLY HILLS, CA 90210 Monday-Saturday 10-7 | Sunday 11-5 | 310 273 3377 www.galeriemichael.com | art@galeriemichael.com Marc CHAGALL (1887-1985) Le Guéridon Bleu, 1963 | Monotype printed in colors on Japan paper | Signed in black ink Provenance: Editions Gérald Cramer, Geneva | Exhibition History: The Museum of Modern Art, "Chagall: Prints, Monotypes, Illustrated Books" November 22, 1979 - January 28, 1980 | Inventory number 914014 10-Sept-ModMast.indd 1 01-05_TOC_WLA.indd 1

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where

los angeles October 2017 The arts + Culture issue

COntents

54 Dining Notable restaurants by cuisine and neighborhood

5 Editor’s Note Hot tickets.

65 Entertainment Special events, performing arts and sports

6 Hot Dates The CDMX festival brings Mexico City to Walt Disney Concert Hall, and the month abounds with spooky Halloween celebrations.

66 Attractions Theme parks, activities, studio tours, museums and more

80 31 Days, 31 Ways

72 shopping The county’s major retail destinations

From cool concerts to enlightening exhibits, we tell you what to check out each day in October.

72 NIGHTLIFE Buzzy bars and cool clubs

where now 8 Q+A Michael Luwoye, star of the national touring production of Hamilton, talks to Where about keeping it real and portraying the Founding Father on the Pantages stage.

Tao Los Angeles at Dream Hollywood

73 TOURS + TRANSPORT Getting out, getting around and getting to know Los Angeles

Carlos Almaraz, Longo Crash (1982), at LACMA

22 Beverly Hills 26 Santa Monica 30 West Hollywood 34 Hollywood 38 Downtown 42 Pasadena 44 The Valley 46 South Bay

10 Dining, Beauty + Shopping All-day restaurant Kismet brings fateful food to Los Feliz; DTLA-based Comunity sells stylish shoes with a heart; and actress/bareMinerals ambassador Ashley Madekwe shares her favorite L.A. spots.

City Tours

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12 Fall for L.A. Art Between the Getty-led artistic initiative Pacific Standard Time: LA/LA and the opening of the highly anticipated exhibition Yayoi Kusama: Infinity Mirrors at the Broad, October is a red-letter month for art in L.A.

ON THE COVER Yayoi Kusama, Infinity Mirror Room—All the Eternal Love I Have for the Pumpkins (2016)

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17 Dining In Beautiful new luxury and boutique hotels are opening by the day in L.A., and their culinary offerings live up to their sumptuous and stylish surroundings. by roger grody

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By Marina Kay

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Knott’s Berry Farm

Get the up-to-the-minute buzz from our Southern California editors online and on your smartphone. 10

Angel Stadium of Anaheim

Staples Center/L.A. Live/ Convention Center

South Coast Plaza/ Segerstrom Center for the Arts

where Los Angeles

From top: warren jagger; Photo by Robert Wedemeyer, © Museum Associates/LACMA. cover: courtesy ota fine arts, tokyo/singapore and victoria miro, london, © yayoi kusama

the guide

departments

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THE YACHT-MASTER The emblematic nautical watch embodies a yachting heritage that stretches back to the 1950s. It doesn’t just tell time. It tells history.

OYSTER PERPETUAL YACHT-MASTER 40

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oyster perpetual and yacht-master are ® trademarks.

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“STEVE MARTIN AND EDIE BRICKELL ARE HUGE TALENTS AND CARMEN CUSACK IS A REVELATION.” –Chris Jones, Chicago Tribune

where MAGAZINE

PUBLISHER EDITOR

Jeff Levy

Suzanne Ennis

ART DIRECTOR

Carol Wakano

EDITOR IN CHIEF

Benjamin Epstein

PRODUCTION ARTIST Diana Gonzalez CONTRIBUTING DESIGNER Heidi Schwindt ASSOCIATE EDITOR Gillian Glover COPY EDITOR Brenda Wong CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Teena Apeles, Roger Grody, Marina Kay CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

Dale Berman, Brown Cannon III, Matt Hartman, Edwin Santiago SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGER

Jessica Levin Poff

ACCOUNT MANAGERS

Tim Egan, Heather Price, Brooke Knetzger, Crystal Sierra BUSINESS MANAGER

Leanne Killian Riggar

CIRCULATION / SPECIAL EVENTS MANAGER

Jennifer Salas

MARKETING/PRODUCTION MANAGER

Dawn Kiko Cheng

DIGITAL STRATEGIST

Christina Wiese ADMINISTRATION

Whitney Lauren Han, Madelyn Harris, Kamryn Stelly NATIONAL SALES

Tiffany Reinhold 714.813.6600 DIRECTOR OF NATIONAL DIGITAL SALES Bridget Cody 706.821.6663 HONORARY PRESIDENT

A NEW MUSICAL

Ted Levy

where Los Angeles

3679 Motor Ave., Suite 300 Los Angeles, California 90034 Phone: 310.280.2880 Fax: 310.280.2890 EMAIL Editorial Suzanne.Ennis@WhereLA.com Art Art@WhereLA.com Production Ads@WhereLA.com Website Christina.Wiese@WhereLA.com Circulation Jennifer.Salas@WhereLA.com

MUSIC, BOOK & STORY BY

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WITH CARMEN CUSACK IN HER TONY ® -NOMINATED PERFORMANCE

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Plan for your next visit to Los Angeles. Subscribe to where: single copy $4, 12 issues $36. Contact: Jennifer Salas. Phone: 310.280.2880 Email: Jennifer.Salas@WhereLA.com © 2017 Southern California Media Group. All rights reserved. Published by Southern California Media Group. where makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part strictly prohibited. where is a registered trademark of Morris Visitor Publications.

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WELCOME

LOST & FOUND

A Note From the Editor

Hot Tickets

DANIEL ENNIS

Now is a great time to be a fan of the arts in L.A., but if you’ve tried to get a ticket to the season’s buzziest events, you may be feeling more frustrated than jazzed. Read on for a few workarounds. The hottest musical of the year has to be Lin-Manuel Miranda’s hip-hop powerhouse, Hamilton. The touring show has reached the Hollywood Pantages, and Hamilton mania has made its

WOMEN • MEN • KIDS • HOME

way to L.A., too. Remaining seats are selling for hundreds of dollars a pop, but visit hollywoodpantages.com/lottery to learn how to enter to win one of 40 $10 tickets available for every performance. To paraphrase the Founding Father, it’s worth a shot! If you snagged tickets to the Yayoi Kusama show opening Oct. 21 at the Broad, you probably felt like you’d won the lottery—the first 50,000 tickets were sold out within two hours. Those who weren’t so fortunate should go to thebroad.org between 11 a.m. and noon on Oct. 2 for a second chance. Still empty-handed? A limited number of sameday tickets will be available, so show up well before the museum opens to wait in the standby line. Similarly, thanks to canceled appointments, the folks at the LACMA box office may have a few same-day tickets to spare for the extraordinary sold-out virtualreality installation by Alejandro G. Iñárritu, Carne y Arena (Virtually Present, Physically Invisible). (See pp. 13-14 for more details.) I wish you luck, but let me also offer some perspective: Arts opportunities that require no wrangling abound across the county. Check out our highlights on pp. 12-15 as well as our listings beginning p. 65. Plus, we have an activity, artsy or otherwise, for every day of the month on p. 80. Some tickets may be scarce, but relax—there’s plenty of inspiration to go around. —SUZANNE ENNIS

The hottest musical of the year has to be Lin-Manuel Miranda’s hip-hop powerhouse, Hamilton. The touring show has reached the Hollywood Pantages, and Hamilton mania has made its way to L.A., too.

a collection of shops

Santa Monica Hollywood 2230 Main St 6320 Yucca St.

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Where Calendar

Hot Dates

Oct. 9-17 viva la musica!

This month at Walt Disney Concert Hall, Gustavo Dudamel and the L.A. Philharmonic explore the colorful music scene of Mexico City with the CDMX festival—part of the citywide Pacific Standard Time: LA/LA cultural initiative. The lineup is lots of fun: Grammy-winning percussionist Antonio Sánchez (pictured above) performs his innovative Birdman soundtrack live to film; Mexrrissey covers Morrissey with a Mexican flair; and rock band Café Tacvba takes the stage with new arrangements. See p. 66 for a full schedule.

Oct. 1-31

Halloween Haunts 1 CREEP LA: LORE > OPENING OCT. 5 This year, the interactive walk-through experience focuses on creepy folklore. creepla.com 2 Cinespia > Oct. 7, 21, 28 The popular film series offers spooky screenings and a costume ball this month. p. 65 3 BOO AT THE L.A. ZOO >

OCT. 7-31 Kids too young for tricks can head to the zoo for treats such as a Halloween maze, pumpkin carving and animal feedings. p. 66

4 La Belle et la bête > Oct. 28-29, 31 See the 1946 classic, pictured right, set to a live operatic soundtrack at the Theatre at Ace Hotel. A “Beastly Ball” follows the Oct. 28 screening. p. 66 5 halloween carnaval > Oct. 31 Find fierce costumes and fun at WeHo’s wild street party. westhollywoodhalloween.com 6 Dark harbor > All month The Queen Mary’s spooky attraction is back with more

monsters and seven mazes, including the new “Feast.” p. 66 7 Halloween Horror nights > All month Universal Studios’ scares include eight mazes and the Titans of Terror Tram— hosted by Chucky. p. 68 8 Los Angeles Haunted Hayride > All month The annual event returns to the Old Zoo at Griffith Park with a singular, terrifying theme: clown. losangeleshauntedhayride.com

want the up-t0-the-minute lowdown? Visit socalpulse.com to discover more of L.A.’s coolest concerts, festivals, plays, art exhibitions, sporting events and restaurants. As Friday nears, look out for the Weekend Roundup, a curated guide to the top happenings around the county.

from top: Bógar Adame Mendoza; osette Day (Belle) and Jean Marais (the Beast) in Jean Cocteau's La Belle et la Bête, courtesy l.a. opera

October 2017

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PST_LA

From Golden Kingdoms to Concrete Jungles Latino and Latin American art from 1000 BC to the present—from Mexico to Brazil, from luxury objects to subversive photographs—all find common ground at the Getty Center this fall. Explore Golden Kingdoms; The Metropolis in Latin America, 1830–1930; Making Art Concrete; and Photography in Argentina, 1850–2010. Find out more at getty.edu/pacificstandardtime

at the Getty Center September 2017 – January 2018

#PSTLALA Images left to right: Serpent Labret with Articulated Tongue (detail), 1300–1521, Aztec culture. Gold, h: 6.7 x w: 4.5 x d: 6.7 cm. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, purchase, 2015 Benefit Fund and Lila Acheson Wallace Gift, 2016 (2016.64). Image © The Metropolitan Museum of Art | Natalia Ariñez, 23 Years Old, Architecture Student (detail), 1999, from the series The Sons and Daughters, Tucumán, Twenty Years Later. Julio Pantoja (Argentine, born 1961). Gelatin silver print, 20.7 x 20.7 cm. The J. Paul Getty Museum, purchased with funds provided by the Photographs Council. © Julio Pantoja | The City of the Future: Hundred Story City in Neo-American Style, 1929. Francisco Mujica (Mexican, 1899–1979). From Francisco Mujica, History of the Skyscraper (1929). The Getty Research Institute, 88-B34645 | Objeto ativo (cubo vermelho/branco), Active Object (red/white cube), 1962. Willys de Castro (Brazilian, 1926–1988). Oil on canvas and plywood. Colección Patricia Phelps de Cisneros, promised gift to the Museum of Modern Art, New York, through the Latin American and Caribbean Fund in honor of Tomás Orinoco Griffin-Cisneros. Artwork © Walter de Castro. Text and design © 2017 J. Paul Getty Trust

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WHERE NOW The best in entertainment,

dining, beauty and shopping

q+A

Making History

Behind the scenes with Hamilton star Michael Luwoye Growing up in Huntsville, Alabama, Michael Luwoye didn’t aspire to a performing-arts career. “For a long time, I didn’t feel like I fit into what theater people do—I didn’t have the temperament. I’m not a very extroverted person,” he explains. So it’s delightfully ironic that he made his Broadway debut in one of the most lauded shows of all time—Lin-Manuel Miranda’s hip-hop musical Hamilton—and was tapped not long after to play the titular role in its national tour. Through Dec. 30, the show is at the Hollywood Pantages, where Luwoye is getting his shot to prove himself in front of an eager L.A. audience. “Every time that a Hamilton goes onstage, forever and always, the audience is going to be looking at him and thinking, ‘What can this person who’s playing Hamilton do?’” he says. “I just love going onstage and being able to show my interpretation.” —Suzanne Ennis

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FROM TOP: JOAN MARCUS; WONHO FRANK LEE. OPPOSITE: ASHLEY BARRETT

How did you react to getting a role in Hamilton on Broadway? My reaction to that is my reaction every day when I wake up on this tour, and every day for the last 14 months, which is, like, “Really? What? OK, that’s very cool. I definitely now have a lot of work to do!” Hamilton is my first Broadway show. The national tour that we’re on right now is my first touring experience. It’s sort of an expedited course on how to handle a phenomenon like this. Who knows when something like this will happen again in the musical-theater canon, and in a pop-culture canon. And not only to be in the middle of it, but to be the lead of it here on the tour, and to have been the lead of it, partially, on Broadway ... what is that? I feel like I can only answer or respond with awkwardly high-pitched questions! How? Why? [Laughs] You are the only actor to play both Alexander Hamilton and Aaron Burr on the same day on Broadway. Are there different challenges to playing each role? The unique challenge, for me, was the energy output, because Hamilton is—pun intended—nonstop. He has all this energy, and he’s throwing it out for everybody he meets. On a performance level, you’re giving all the time. Out of the 50 songs that are in the show, I think Hamilton does all of them but six, maybe. With Burr, same energy, same output, [but] you can’t deliver it in the same way, because Burr holds it until it’s the right moment. Do you have a favorite song? My top two favorites are “Hurricane” and “My Shot.” Before I knew that I was really in consideration for Hamilton, I remember being inside my New York apartment, saying, “‘Hurricane’ is the one song that I would love to do.” There’s such gravity to that song. “My Shot” is, right out the gate, able

to express so much. That’s really Hamilton’s introduction to all the characters onstage and also to the audience. How about a favorite scene? I don’t really have one. But some of my favorite things are the silent moments that I get with everybody else onstage. You can’t see them in the audience, but there are certain moments where everybody will improv or make up something every night. So while other people are speaking, I’ll have a moment with [the performers in the roles of George] Washington or [John] Laurens or [Marquis de] Lafayette and [Hercules] Mulligan, and we’re able to just riff off of each other and just play around before we come to the story again. There’s a little bit of levity. I’ll keep an eye out for that! How is the L.A. production unique? I think it’s 2,700-plus [seats] at Pantages, which is the largest house that Hamilton’s been in. So we’re having to push a lot here just so that we can make sure

THE DETAILS

Griffith Observatory p. 66 Hollywood Pantages p. 66 Runyon Canyon 2000 N. Fuller Ave., L.A. Juicy Wingz 6340 Hollywood Blvd., L.A., 323.498.5576; 6741 Hollywood Blvd., L.A., 323.745.0638 Shake Shack 6201 Hollywood Blvd., L.A., 323.593.7763 (pictured above) Sweetgreen 6115 W. Sunset Blvd., Hollywood, 323.498.5558 Wood & Vine 6280 Hollywood Blvd., L.A., 323.334.3360

The touring cast of Hamilton, with Michael Luwoye as Alexander Hamilton (in brown coat)

that the quality of our show is reaching every seat. And some people [in the show] are L.A. natives, or native to California, so it’s sort of a homecoming. So there’s that spirit, and people are welcoming, in that respect. People are so excited for this show, so we’re having to translate the energy that we’re receiving from the audience and everybody’s reactions into our performance. Had you spent any time in L.A. before arriving for rehearsals? This is my first time here. I haven’t really gone to anything that’s separate from Hamilton. Soon, I’m going to be able to manage my time a lot better so that I can actually go hike to the Hollywood sign and go and hike Runyon Canyon and go to the Griffith Observatory. Have you gone out to eat? We had a little thing at Wood & Vine last week. I tried Juicy Wingz last night. I happen to have an Achilles’ heel for Shake Shack, and I’ve also been to Sweetgreen. Do you get mobbed by fans? I was at a crosswalk the night that we landed, and somebody was like, “I just saw you in San Francisco!” They were wearing their Hamilton gear, and they stopped and asked for pictures.

The first day we got here! Even before that, we got off of the plane, and there were two women who were like, “Are you guys from Hamilton? Can we get a picture?” And just out of their excitement, they were like, “Do something Hamilton-y!” Yeah, I could get shot?! [Laughs] What would you say to the kids who someday want to be in your shoes? I would say, “Don’t try to be in my shoes—stay in your shoes.” The first time that I saw the show was my first week of rehearsal. ... I was watching Lin [-Manuel Miranda], and the first thing that came to my mind was, “I can’t do that,” which could have been very discouraging. But on the flip side, I can do my own stuff. And that’s the only way that I know how to survive in this craft that I didn’t think I belonged in initially. I know my own quirks and my idiosyncrasies and my weirdness and my insecurity, my frustrations and the things that I’m confident about. I know that I function best when I’m actually nurturing and expressing those things. And so when I talk to kids after the show, my advice [is]: Instead of trying to purely emulate another person ... walk in your own shoes and figure out how they actually fit on you. WHERE LOS ANGELES 9

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where NOW / October

2017

dining

Date With Destiny

Bewitching Beauty

Kismet’s Turkish iced coffee

The “Your Turn” shoe in sand

shopping

Walk the walk

When Angelenos Shannon and Sean Scott teamed up with Ryan Gumienny to create a company that would instigate change in their own community, they gravitated to what they knew best: shoes. The partners are all footwear-industry vets with

experience at leading labels such as Toms, where the takeaway was feeling “empowered to use your business as an influence for good,” Sean says. That attitude fuels Comunity, their new small-batch premium-footwear brand, which just opened a downtown Arts District showroom/retail store/event space. Comunity’s three styles for men and women are crafted in a factory just over the 7th Street bridge, and $10 from the sale of each pair supports an L.A.-area cause—the arts, the homeless or education—of the customer’s choice. Slip on a pair, and you’re guaranteed to feel good about doing good—while looking good, to boot. 584 Mateo St., downtown, comunitymade.com

BareMinerals’ new ambassador Ashley Madekwe played a witch on Salem, but L.A. has cast a real spell on the English actress. Below, she shares a few of her favorite things. HANG In England, we say you have your “local”—your local pub. The Chateau Marmont is my local. 8221 Sunset Blvd., L.A., 323.656.1010 RESTAURANT Izaka-ya [by Katsu-Ya] for sushi is my favorite place for lunch. 8420 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.782.9536 ESCAPE I live not too far from Runyon [Canyon], so I like going there to hike or sometimes read my scripts. 2000 N. Fuller Ave., L.A. ATTRACTION I’m not over walking down Hollywood Boulevard, and I still get really excited when I see the Hollywood sign. BEAUTY PRODUCT BareMinerals’ BarePro foundation is great for travel because you can put it on in the morning and forget about it. BareMinerals at Westfield Topanga, 6600 Topanga Canyon Blvd., Canoga Park, 818.346.1101 Read the full interview at socalpulse.com

clockwise from top left: oriana koren; iddo goldberg; courtesy comunity

If you’re in the culinary know, chances are you’ve already heard of Kismet, the recently opened Middle Easterninspired restaurant from Sara Kramer and Sarah Hymanson, the duo behind Grand Central Market falafel stand Madcapra, in partnership with Animal’s Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo. The sunny Los Feliz spot has already racked up kudos; it was one of Bon Appétit’s 50 finalists for best new restaurant in the country this year, and it earned a James Beard Award nomination for best restaurant design. And Kismet’s allday menu is equally noteworthy: Enjoy shakshuka and the acclaimed Turkish-ish breakfast, made up of nine small dishes, during the day. Dinner offers delights like lamb belly or the extravagant rabbit for two, a feast with flaky bread, greens, pickles, tahini and yogurt. 4648 Hollywood Blvd., L.A., 323.409.0404, kismetlosangeles.com

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OSKA 9693 Wilshire Boulevard Beverly Hills, CA 90212 310 271 2806 OSKA 13 Douglas Alley Pasadena, CA 91103 626 432 1729 Shop online beverlyhills.oska.com

Beverly Hills / Chicago / Minneapolis / Healdsburg / Mill Valley / New York / Pasadena / Seattle / Calgary / Vancouver London / Paris / Munich / Amsterdam / Stockholm

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Fall for L.A. Art Los Angeles is not only a capital of entertainment, but also a mecca for fine art. One of this fall’s don’t-miss events is the Getty-led initiative Pacific Standard Time: LA/LA (Latin American & Latino Art in L.A.), presented in partnership with dozens of SoCal cultural institutions. But wait, there’s more— picture a Superman mega-exhibit and Instagram-worthy infinity-mirror art. Color us inspired. by M A R I N A K AY

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THE BROAD

he Broad presents the hotly anticipated Yayoi Kusama: Infinity Mirrors (opening Oct. 21), a traveling exhibition comprising six kaleidoscopic mirrored environments—including Kusama's most recent room, All the Eternal Love I Have for the Pumpkins (2016)—alongside large-scale installations, key paintings, sculptures and works on paper from the Japanese artist’s 65year career. Catch it while you can: The Broad is the only space in California to host this exhibition. Advance tickets, $25 (on sale Oct. 2); limited sameday standby tickets, $30. p. 70

CALIFORNIA AFRICAN AMERICAN MUSEUM

riginating at the Brooklyn Museum, We Wanted a Revolution: Black Radical Women 1965–85 (opening Oct. 13) brings together film, photography, painting, sculpture, video art

and prints by more than 40 African-American women artists who committed themselves to activism during the civil-rights, Black Power, women’s, anti-war and gay-liberation movements. Free. 600 State Drive, Exposition Park, L.A., 213.744.7432

THE GETTY

eading PST: LA/LA, the Getty Center hosts five associated exhibitions including The Metropolis in Latin America, 1830-1930, which traces the transformation of six capital cities (Buenos Aires, Havana, Lima, Mexico City, Rio de Janeiro and Santiago de Chile) through prints, plans and photo-

graphs. Also notable: Photography in Argentina, 1850–2010: Contradiction and Continuity and Golden Kingdoms: Luxury and Legacy in the Ancient Americas—a show of more than 300 rarely or neverbefore-seen luxury and gold works from over 50 international lenders. Complementing the latter two is a one-day family festival featuring a make-your-own golden pre-Columbian treasures workshop and Argentine tango fun (Oct. 21, 10 a.m.–6 p.m.). For more information about PST: LA/ LA, visit pacificstandardtime.org. Free. p. 70

Installation view of Yayoi Kusama: Infinity Mirrors at the Hirshhorn Museum and Sculpture Garden, 2017. Life (Repetitive Vision) (1998)

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his Mike Kelley megaexhibition is the first in L.A. to present the full sweep of the artist’s late series inspired by the comic-book tale of Kandor, the capital city of Krypton, birth planet of Superman. Mike Kelley: Kandors (opening Oct. 21) presents a number of works for the first time in L.A., including Kandors Full Set (2005–2009)—a miniaturized, sprawling array of illuminated cities, some set in colorful hand-blown bottles— and the monumental Kandor 10B (Exploded Fortress of Solitude), Kelley’s take on Superman’s cave-like postapocalyptic bunker. Free. 901 E. 3rd St., downtown, 213.943.1620, hauserwirthlosangeles.com

ICA LA

he Santa Monica Museum of Art has a new name, location and identity: Meet the Institute of Contemporary Art, Los Angeles (ICA LA), housed in a renovated industrial building downtown. Part of PST: LA/LA, the museum’s inaugural exhibition, Martín Ramírez: His Life in Pictures, Another Interpretation, is the first solo presentation of this self-taught artist in Southern California. After moving to California from Mexico and being diagnosed with schizophrenia, Ramírez was confined to psychiatric hospitals, where he created a unique style of art defined by concentric lines, undulating patterns and surreal topography. See 50 of his works, plus a monumental 18-foot scroll comprising a glossary of

his singular imagery, on view for the first time. And on ICA LA’s courtyard wall: L.A.-based artist Sarah Cain’s Now I’m Going to Tell You Everything, a temporary 800-square-foot color explosion that takes its title from a poem written for the artist by celebrated poet Bernadette Mayer. Free. 1717 E. 7th St., downtown, 310.284.8100, theicala.org

LACMA

he largest art museum in the western United States, LACMA scored the first major retrospective of one of the most influential Los Angeles Chicano artists of the 1970s. Playing With Fire: Paintings by Carlos Almaraz, another PST: LA/LA participant, enchants with its exuberant

display of color and impressionist style. Also, Found in Translation: Design in California and Mexico, 1915–1985 shows the modern and anti-modern design movements of the 20th century through a compilation of architectural drawings, photographs and films, as well as furniture, ceramics, metalwork and murals. Separate from, but complementary to, PST: LA/LA is film director Alejandro G. Iñárritu’s installation Carne y Arena (Virtually Present, Physically Invisible), which explores the difficult journey of Latin American immigrants and refugees. The immersive 6½-minute virtual-reality experience is a harrowing walk in a migrant’s shoes. Advance tickets sold out; limited same-day tickets, $30 plus regular admission. p. 70

Roberto and Fernando Luna (1996). opposite, clockwise from left: photo by Paul Hassel/© Estate of Ruth Asawa; Photo by Bliss Photography/© Carlos Almaraz Estate; © The Metropolitan Museum of Art; courtesy otium; Photo by Adam Avila/© Maren Hassinger. opening spread: cathy carver

HAUSER & WIRTH LOS ANGELES

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Clockwise from top right: Carlos Almaraz, Suburban Nightmare (1983), from LACMA’s Playing With Fire exhibition; a gold nose ornament dating between the first century BCE and second century CE, from the Getty Center’s Golden Kingdoms exhibition; Maren Hassinger, Leaning (1980), made of wire and wire rope, from CAAM’s We Wanted a Revolution exhibition. The Playing With Fire and Golden Kingdoms exhibitions are part of the Getty’s Pacific Standard Time: LA/LA initiative.

EDIBLE ART LAXART

artnering with the Getty Research Institute, the groundbreaking nonprofit LAXART gallery presents Video Art in Latin America, a landmark exhibition that unravels the evolution of Latin American video art through 60 works, ranging from the earliest experiments in Argentina during the 1960s to movements that emerged across Ecuador, Guatemala and Costa Rica in the new millennium. Free. 7000 Santa Monica Blvd., Hollywood, 323.871.4140, laxart.org

Above: Ruth Asawa, Untitled (S.266) (1961). Opposite: Francisco Artigas and Fernando Luna, House at 131 Rocas, Jardines del Pedregal, Mexico City (1966). Both artworks are featured in LACMA's Found in Translation exhibition.

MOCA

nna Maria Maiolino is a moving retrospective that charts the Brazilian artist’s career, Brazilian art history and major postwar movements through an extraordinary collection of drawings, woodblock prints, concrete sculptures, politically charged performances and unfired clay installations. $15, at MOCA Grand Avenue. And Axis Mundo: Queer Networks in Chicano L.A. marks the first historical consideration of queer Chicano artists in the context of broader artistic and cultural movements such as fashion culture, punk music and artists’ responses to the AIDS epidemic. Free, at MOCA Pacific Design Center. p. 72

At Otium restaurant, next to the Broad, chef Timothy Hollingsworth is translating Yayoi Kusama’s visual feast into food and drink as fantastical as it is delicious. Among the art-inspired dishes: Phalli’s Field (pictured above), made from crèmefraîche mousse, strawberry, pomegranate, olive oil, shortbread soil and sweet “tentacles.” 222 S. Hope St., downtown, 213.935.8500, otiumla.com WHERE LOS ANGELES 15

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Prepare for Takeoff

Hook Burger

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Krispy Kreme

West Coast Customs

There’s a whole world to explore in Burbank’s Airport District. From the new REI, to behind-the-scenes tours of the World Famous West Coast Customs, and shopping and dining options at the mega power-house Empire Center, you’ll know you’ve arrived in style.

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WIN A TRIP TO LAS VEGAS! Escape to Las Vegas and putt for dough. Trip includes airfare for a 3-night/4-day stay for two at the newly remodeled rooms at Planet Hollywood Resort & Casino, plus the opportunity to fast-track your way to the Major Series of Putting Championship in the Team Championship event. Golfers from around the world will have the opportunity to test their skills with a putter as they compete for a purse on the MSOP Stadium course. The pristine, 18-hole putting course was designed by the lauded Nicklaus Design…And you could be part of it! Think you’ve got the skills (and the nerves) to nail that winning putt?

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G OE S YOU R DI N N E R

DI N I NG I N L.A.’S NEW HOTEL RESTAURANTS ARE DESTINATIONS UNTO THEMSELVES.

AVABLU

By Roger Grody

LOS ANGELES is experiencing a flurry of hotel construction, with historic buildings reimagined as boutique hostelries and luxury brands transforming the skyline with glitzy towers. Not long ago, a hotel restaurant was the last place an ambitious chef would aspire to work—but now, to the benefit of visitors as well as locals, that’s exactly where you’ll find some of L.A.’s top culinary talent. WHERE LOS ANGELES 17

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L.A.’s culinary clout is on the rise, and underscoring that point is the arrival of JeanGeorges Vongerichten. The New York-based chef/restaurateur with a galaxy of Michelin stars and more than 35 restaurants worldwide recently debuted Jean-Georges Beverly Hills at the new Waldorf Astoria Beverly Hills, a sleek tower next to the Beverly Hilton. Designer Pierre-Yves Rochon created a light and airy space for the dining room of JeanGeorges Beverly Hills, with a wavy bronzeinlaid terrazzo floor, long leather banquettes, boxed lemon trees and an atmosphere that lacks the solemnity usually associated with temples of gastronomy. Additionally, year-round alfresco dining is available on a Mediterranean-garden-inspired patio that celebrates L.A.’s laid-back lifestyle. One might begin with artistically presented toasted egg yolks with caviar, a Jean-Georges signature, or vibrantly colored Santa Barbara uni seasoned with jalapeño and yuzu, served on black-bread crostini. For entrées, a caramelized beef tenderloin is complemented by miso-mustard, while Parmesan-crusted chicken is sauced in a lemon beurre blanc. Another big splash in L.A.’s dining scene came courtesy of Tao—famous in Manhattan and Las Vegas for its dazzling decor, lychee martinis, lobster wontons and Peking duck. The local branch is part of a complex anchored by Hollywood’s new Dream Hotel, an emerging modern luxury chain with properties in New York, Florida’s South Beach and Bangkok. A stunning 20-foot statue of Quan Yin, the goddess of mercy, rises from a koi pond to dominate Tao Los Angeles’ soaring dining room. It is a dramatic, sexy dining spot,

and the quality of the pan-Asian fare exceeds expectations for this kind of clubby scene. Tao Group created other venues at Dream Hollywood, as well: new concept Luchini Pizzeria & Bar, Avenue nightclub, The Highlight Room—an 11,000-square-foot, poolside rooftop lounge with a retractable canopy—and a third location of Beauty & Essex. Consistent with the company’s DNA, Beauty & Essex features over-the-top theatrical decor, and the fun, eclectic fare from Chopped judge Chris Santos extends far beyond the Pacific Rim. Starters include steak tartare on sticky rice cakes and grilled-cheesesandwich-like dumplings, each presented in a spoon filled with tomato soup. Main courses include tandoori-spiced chicken, followed by riffs on all-American desserts. Another new lodging opportunity in Hollywood is the Kimpton-branded Everly Hotel, where all-day Jane Q offers great versatility. Duck-confit monkey bread and a croque monsieur may appear as breakfast items, while black-truffle calzone and roasted skirt steak with chimichurri are among the lunch and dinner offerings. Jane Q accommodates casual suppers before a show at the Pantages Theatre, and the hotel’s Ever Bar offers a large repertoire of creative mixology. Recently opening at Wilshire Grand Center—thanks to a spire piercing the clouds, the building is now the tallest west of Chicago—is the InterContinental Los Angeles Downtown. The 889-room hotel supports multiple eating and drinking establishments, several of which use height to their advantage. On the 69th floor is an all-day buffet-style restaurant named Dekkadance, as well as sushi restau-

rant Sora, while Spire 73—the highest openair bar in the Western Hemisphere—offers a creative lounge menu and spectacular views. The most ambitious dining option at the InterContinental is La Boucherie on 71, featuring a French-influenced steakhouse menu. Given La Boucherie’s lofty location, floor-toceiling windows capture stunning downtown views from tables of richly striated marble slabs, paired with curvy club chairs and tufted booths. Wine racks are ensconced behind smoky glass, while modern lighting fixtures complete a sophisticated scene. A French accent permeates the appetizer page at La Boucherie, with dishes such as salmon en croute, seared foie gras with appletarte tatin and onion-soup gratinée. Shareable starters also include ris de veau (sweetbreads) with chanterelles and even veal kidneys—increasingly hard to find in Paris, let alone L.A.—plated with grape mustard and morels. Dry-aged USDA Prime beef takes center stage for entrées, as well as game and fish. The experience at La Boucherie on 71 includes diners choosing their steak knives from an international collection and selecting from an even wider array of mustards and sea salts. A $55 million makeover is concluding at the historic Hotel Figueroa, where an ornate Moroccan decor has been stripped in favor of an updated version of the original Spanish Mission Revival interior. With close proximity to L.A. Live, the Fig (slated for an October 2017 reopening) is sure to reassert itself as a significant downtown destination, driven in

FROM TOP: WARREN JAGGER; BILLY FARRELL, COURTESY WALDORF ASTORIA BEVERLY HILLS. OPPOSITE, FROM LEFT: AVABLU; COURTESY FREEHAND HOTEL

From top: Tao Los Angeles’ dramatic dining room; chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten of Jean-Georges Beverly Hills. Opposite, left: Grilled cheese, smoked bacon and tomato-soup dumplings at Beauty & Essex. Opening page: Tao’s tuna Pringles

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part by local celebrity chef Casey Lane. At Breva, the hotel’s main dining room, Lane has created a contemporary Basqueinspired menu, accompanied by drinks from innovative mixologist Dushan Zaric of New York’s Employees Only and Macao Trading Co. Zaric also dispenses his liquid specialties and accompanying pintxos from the two-story, curvilinear Bar Figueroa, while Bar Alta is a reservations-only bartender’s table at which guests enjoy personalized, interactive service from Zaric and other nationally recognized mixologists. Another dining concept developed by Lane, Viale dei Romani, opens imminently at Kimpton La Peer Hotel in West Hollywood.

Less than a block away from the Fig is the new 18-story Hotel Indigo, part of the $1 billion Metropolis project rising above the 110 Freeway as it meanders through downtown. For dining, the Indigo offers Metropole Bar + Kitchen, a ground-floor restaurant whose design was inspired by the service tunnels crisscrossing beneath downtown L.A., which were used as secret passageways to illicit speakeasies during Prohibition. Executive chef Kevin Harry, a veteran of luxury hotels, offers starters like the W.T.F. (compressed watermelon, tomato and feta) and sexy foie-gras wontons with mango mustard before turning out a contemporary twist on steak frites, hoisin barbecue salmon and a vegetarian tagine from his eclectic menu. For a nightcap, an elevator ride to 18 Social, the Indigo’s top-floor cocktail lounge, is a no-brainer. Downtown’s Fashion District, long a secret destination for savvy shoppers, has suddenly

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become, for lack of a better term, fashionable. New loft residences are creating demand for trendy cafés and shops, and ambitious redevelopment projects are reshaping the neighborhood. Capitalizing on the district’s newfound appeal is Tuck Hotel, a boutique property with 14 sleek, fashion-forward rooms. Delicat, the hotel’s restaurant, is a chic study in grays and browns, with modern art and a polished live-edge wooden bar. For brunch, Delicat serves breakfast dishes and sandwiches that include 24-hour-smoked brisket with caramelized onions, and pancetta with potatoes and a fried egg—the last ingredient is a popular accoutrement to several other sandwiches on the menu. Delicat also offers an authentic tortilla de patata (Spanish omelet) served with silky aioli, and chef/hotelier Juan Pablo Torre shows off more of his Spanish heritage on a dinner menu that includes croquetas de azafrán (saffron croquettes) and crispy paella with artichokes and mushrooms. Also new to downtown is Sydell Group’s Freehand LA, part of a small chain that emphasizes local culture. Occupying the repurposed historic Commercial Exchange Building, the hotel offers a blend of traditional rooms and communal accommodations. For dining, the Freehand presents The Exchange, where, in true L.A. multicultural style, an Israeliinspired menu is prepared by chef Alex Chang, who is Mexican-Chinese. The restaurant’s decor, from designers Roman and Williams, retains restored mosaic owls in the tile floor, from when an Owl Drug Store occupied the space. Desert plants line broad windows, while modern lighting fixtures illuminate a scene that seems to straddle two eras. Chang, whose résumé includes L.A.’s Animal and Mexico City’s world-renowned Pujol, offers chili-spiked hummus and a chicken-liver-foie gras pâté with tangerine jam and fermented date honey. Larger plates include trout with black-olive-seaweed chermoula, and hanger steak with black harissa. France, Italy, Lebanon and Israel are all represented on the wine list, while cocktails incorporate Middle Eastern ingredients. Creative cocktails (along with street-foodinspired snacks) star at laid-back Broken Shaker, on the Freehand’s lushly landscaped rooftop pool deck. The award-winning bar debuted at the Freehand Miami, but it is a particularly fitting—and compelling—example of L.A.’s revitalized hotel-dining scene.

THE HOT(EL) SPOTS 18 Social, Hotel Indigo, 899 Francisco St., downtown, 213.232.8800 Avenue, Dream Hotel, 1601 Cahuenga Blvd., Hollywood, 323.593.7999 Bar Alta, Hotel Figueroa, 939 S. Figueroa St., downtown, 877.724.1973 Bar Figueroa, Hotel Figueroa, 939 S. Figueroa St., downtown, 877.724.1973 Beauty & Essex, Dream Hotel, 1615 Cahuenga Blvd., Hollywood, 323.676.8880 Breva, Hotel Figueroa, 939 S. Figueroa St., downtown, 877.724.1973 Broken Shaker, Freehand LA, 416 W. 8th St., downtown, 213.612.0021 Dekkadance, InterContinental, 900 Wilshire Blvd., downtown, 213.688.7777 Delicat, Tuck Hotel, 820 S. Spring St., downtown, 213.947.3815 Ever Bar, Everly Hotel, 1800 Argyle Ave., Hollywood, 213.279.3534 The Exchange (pictured above), Freehand LA, 416 W. 8th St., downtown, 213.395.9531 The Highlight Room, Dream Hotel, 6417 Selma Ave., Hollywood, 323.844.6417 Jane Q, Everly Hotel, 1800 Argyle Ave., Hollywood, 213.279.3534 Jean-Georges Beverly Hills, Waldorf Astoria Beverly Hills, 9850 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.860.6666 La Boucherie on 71, InterContinental, 900 Wilshire Blvd., downtown, 213.688.7777 Luchini Pizzeria & Bar, Dream Hotel, 1607 Cahuenga Blvd., Hollywood, 323.593.7771 Metropole Bar + Kitchen, Hotel Indigo, 899 Francisco St., downtown, 213.232.8800 Sora, InterContinental, 900 Wilshire Blvd., downtown, 213.688.7777 Spire 73, InterContinental, 900 Wilshire Blvd., downtown, 213.688.7777 Tao Los Angeles, Dream Hotel, 6421 Selma Ave., Hollywood, 323.593.7888 Viale dei Romani, La Peer Hotel, 627 N. La Peer Drive, West Hollywood, 855.239.4324

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FIND YOUR

MARINA MOMENT Where living in the moment means paddleboarding to breakfast. Seizing the day can be a mid-morning sailing lesson, parasailing over the marina or cycling to Venice Beach. Embracing an evening is toasting the sunset and dancing under the star-kissed sky on a harbor cruise. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s all here... what will your Marina adventure be? Check out visitmarinadelrey.com or call 310.305.9545 for information. Get connected with Marina del Rey

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WHERE ABOUTS

MARVIN BRAUDE BIKE TRAIL, PHOTO BY BROWN CANNON III/INTERSECTION PHOTOS

Los Angeles is the most populous county in the nation and among the most culturally diverse. Its 4,000 square miles encompass dozens of cities and more than 200 neighborhoods, each with its own vibe. The pages that follow will guide you through the most visited among them, pointing out starring attractions and uncovering hidden gems along the way.

CIT Y TOURS 22 26 30 34 38 42 44 46

Beverly Hills Santa Monica West Hollywood Hollywood Downtown Pasadena The Valley South Bay

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THE MANSIONS

/ RODEO DRIVE + GOLDEN TRIANGLE / THE INDUSTRY + THE ARTS / CENTURY CITY

BEVERLY HILLS It’s only 5 square miles, but Beverly Hills looms large in pop culture as a posh locale that boasts some of the priciest mansions in L.A. County, not to mention the country’s most recognizable ZIP code. Rodeo Drive, perhaps the world’s most famous shopping street, offers virtually every luxury fashion brand.

THE MANSIONS The launch of Beverly Hills’ glamorous reputation dates to the early 20th century, when the opening of the Beverly Hills Hotel ushered in a frenzy of movie-star mansion-building in the hills north of Sunset Boulevard. Today, the population of 35,000 is more socioeconomically diverse than its depiction on TV and in movies might suggest. Nonetheless, the triumvirate of Beverly Hills, Holmby Hills and Bel-Air still attracts its share of famous residents. Hop on the Beverly Hills Trolley Tour, or book ahead with Starline Tours or Star Track Tours to see notable homes in the ‘hood, along with other local landmarks packed into the city’s 5 square miles. Among the more storied and oft-filmed estates nestled in the hills is the 19th-century English Revivalstyle Greystone Mansion, whose graceful city-owned grounds are open for strolling.

RODEO DRIVE + GOLDEN TRIANGLE From Greystone, head west on Sunset Boulevard, then hang on to your wallet as you turn south onto Rodeo Drive. After passing through a tony residential neighborhood, you enter the shopping district known as the Golden Triangle, bounded by Santa Monica and Wilshire boulevards and Cañon Drive. Burberry, Balenciaga, Fendi and Gucci each recently debuted new or renovated flagships on Rodeo, reminding shoppers that 90210 is still the most prestigious ZIP code in the States.

Ascend the Italian-esque side street to fine-art destination Galerie Michael and Tiffany & Co., perched atop Two Rodeo. Pause for the quintessential Beverly Hills snapshot before continuing on to the Beverly Wilshire, A Four Seasons Hotel (of Pretty Woman fame) at the south end of Rodeo Drive. Continuing west, pass Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue and recently revamped Barneys New York, the reigning luxury retail titans along this stretch of Wilshire. At Santa Monica Boulevard, you hit the Beverly Hilton hotel, which rolls out

THE INDUSTRY + THE ARTS Beverly Hills isn’t all shopping sprees and gated estates: Talent agencies William Morris Endeavor and United Talent Agency are just two of the entertainment businesses based here. Rub shoulders with the powerlunchers at Thomas Keller’s Bouchon or Wolfgang Puck’s legendary Spago on Cañon, or grab dinner and hear live music at Mastro’s Steakhouse just up the street. The city’s cultural treasure troves include the Paley Center for Media and the Samuel Goldwyn Theater at the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences, both of which hold screenings. There is even more cultural programming at the Wallis Annenberg Center for the Performing Arts, which transformed the historic Beverly Hills Post Office into an entertainment destination. CENTURY CITY Heading west from Beverly Hills on Santa Monica Boulevard, you enter the 0.7-square-mile

great find

A CHIP OFF THE AUCTION BLOCK Esteemed British auction house Christie’s has a new flagship in Beverly Hills: a two-story testament to L.A.’s thriving arts scene. The gallery facilitates private sales, hosts selling exhibitions and showcases auction highlights, such as items from the collection of Audrey Hepburn, on view Sept. 12-13 before they head to London for sale. 336 N. Camden Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.385.2600, christies.com/la

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: DALE BERMAN; COURTESY BEVERLY HILLS CONFERENCE AND VISITORS BUREAU; ADRIAN TIEMANS. OPPOSITE: MATT HARTMAN

30,000 square feet of red carpet annually to host the Golden Globe Awards.

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NEW IN TOWN Jean-Georges Beverly Hills

Visit chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s namesake restaurant at the Waldorf Astoria Beverly Hills for opulence and fine dining. 9850 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.860.6566

Reformation

Shop the L.A.-based clothing line’s sustainable styles and gorgeous dresses at Platform. 8810 Washington Blvd., Suite 102, Culver City, 855.756.0560

Vespertine

Chef Jordan Kahn’s mysterious, pricey “gastronomical experiment” is disrupting the L.A. culinary scene. 3599 Hayden Ave., Culver City, vespertine.la

Storefronts along North Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills. Opposite, clockwise from top left: Two Rodeo; a signpost at the intersection of luxury and commerce WHERE LOS ANGELES 23

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T B

/ WESTWOOD VILLAGE / CULVER CITY

Platform in Culver City

modern acropolis of Century City. ICM Partners and Creative Artists Agency are located here, as are a Fox Studios lot and countless legal, financial, entertainment and hospitality firms. But those outside the biz won’t be excluded. Past Avenue of the Stars, you hit the upscale Westfield Century City shopping center, which is near completion of a dramatic redevelopment. Nearby on Constellation Boulevard, epicures are drawn to Tom Colicchio’s Craft and Hinoki & the Bird, inside the towering residential complex the Century. (Candy Spelling claims the top two floors.) The Annenberg Space for Photography displays cutting-edge exhibits of digital and print photography.

UCLA A few miles northeast of Century City is the University of California, Los Angeles, one of the top public universities in the country. Visitors are welcome at several university attractions, including the Fowler Museum at UCLA and the outdoor Franklin D.

Murphy Sculpture Garden on the north campus, the planetarium on the south campus and the 7-acre Mildred E. Mathias Botanical Gardens. The free Hammer Museum is nearby and houses impressionist paintings, as well as cutting-edge contemporary exhibitions. Paid parking is available in UCLA lots and structures throughout the 419-acre campus.

WESTWOOD VILLAGE Just south of the campus, the pedestrian-friendly Westwood Village features independent shops and cafés among its Mediterranean Revival and art deco buildings, as well as two landmark movie theaters at Broxton and Weyburn avenues: the 1936 marquee-wrapped Bruin theater and the Fox theater across the street. Built circa 1931, the Fox is a favorite for movie premieres and thus is prime star-spotting territory. Another don’t-miss venue is the award-winning Geffen Playhouse, located on Le Conte Avenue in one of the oldest buildings in Westwood.

CULVER CITY Covering 5 square miles southeast of Westwood, Culver City boasts a thriving downtown with bars and restaurants including Korean-barbecue spot Hanjip and seasonal California restaurant the Wallace. The Kirk Douglas Theatre and the Ivy Substation, home to the Actors’ Gang, bookend the downtown area and stage live productions throughout the year. As you travel east on Washington Boulevard, don’t miss the Helms Bakery complex, which contains dozens of high-end furniture showrooms. Moving along Washington, the scene-y Arts District has more than 30 art galleries and exhibition spaces clustered along Washington and La Cienega boulevards. Near the intersection of Washington and National boulevards is the ultra-hip Platform lifestyle complex, plus a stop on the Expo Line, a Metro light rail that, thanks to a recent expansion, connects downtown L.A. and Santa Monica. Hollywood gets all the attention, but it’s Culver City whose city seal proclaims it “The Heart of Screenland.” In 1915, Ince/ Triangle Studios opened on Washington; in 1924, the site became Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer Studios. Classics including Singin’ in the Rain and The Wizard of Oz would eventually be filmed on its movie lots. (News reports of the time indicate that the “Munchkins” partied hard during their stay at the Culver Hotel.) Today, Culver City’s screen culture is still going strong, and the site is home to Sony Pictures Studios, where such hits as Wheel of Fortune and Jeopardy! are taped. Experience Culver City’s screen heritage by taking the Sony Pictures Studio Tour.

WF O R BOLD I T E M S , S E E T H E W H E R E G U ID E . F O R A N E I G H B O R H O O D M A P, S E E PA G E 76 .

T I

A massage at the Peninsula Spa

insider tips

HAVE A SPA DAY Beverly Hills offers the height of luxury, so why not further indulge at one of these posh spas? The Beverly Hills Hotel Spa 9641 Sunset Blvd., 310.887.2006 The Peninsula Spa 9882 S. Santa Monica Blvd., 310.975.2854 The Spa at Beverly Wilshire, a Four Seasons Hotel 9500 Wilshire Blvd., 310.385.7023 The Spa at Four Seasons Los Angeles at Beverly Hills 300 S. Doheny Drive, 310.273.4444 Spa Montage 225 N. Cañon Drive, 310.860.7840 The Spa at Waldorf Astoria by La Prairie 9850 Wilshire Blvd., 800.774.1500 Tomoko Spa 141 S. Beverly Drive, 310.205.7300

FROM LEFT: BENNY CHAN; COURTESY THE PENINSULA BEVERLY HILLS

UCLA

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THE PERFECT BLEND THE NEW CENTURY CIT Y. IMAGINE WHERE IT WILL TAKE YOU.

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THIRD STREET + THE PIER

/ MAIN STREET + MONTANA AVENUE / THE ARTS / MALIBU

SANTA MONICA The Arts Visitors can take in plays at Main Street’s Edgemar Center for the Arts, housed in an angular concrete structure designed by Frank Gehry. An even wider variety of entertainment is at the Broad Stage, Santa Monica College’s first-rate, 499-seat performing-arts, film, dance and theater venue. On Michigan Avenue, the Bergamot Station arts center— now a stop on the Expo Line— has emerged as a hub for L.A.’s creative community. It’s home to about 30 galleries and a café. Third Street + the Pier Third Street Promenade, three pedestrian-only blocks on 3rd Street between Broadway and Wilshire Boulevard, perpetually teems with people. Visitors can hit dozens of boutiques, watch movies at two cinemas and gawk at the myriad street artists. If they don’t refuel at the many eateries along the Promenade, visitors can venture to the surrounding blocks to The Independence or the Misfit and enjoy drinks at The Bungalow or the many pubs, such as Ye Olde King’s Head, that hint at Santa Monica’s large population of British expats. Anchoring the promenade at Broadway is Santa Monica Place, a beautiful open-air shopping center with Nordstrom, Bloomingdale’s, 80 boutiques, ArcLight Cinemas and the toplevel Dining Deck. Steps away is the new western terminus of the Metro Expo Line, which connects Santa Monica by light rail to downtown Los Angeles.

Santa Monica Pier, built in 1909, is at the end of Colorado Avenue and features Pacific Park, a mini amusement park with food stands and rides, including a solar-powered, LED-lit Ferris wheel.

Main Street + Montana Avenue Compared with the hustle and bustle of Third Street Promenade, Montana Avenue is downright tranquil. Between 6th and 17th streets are plenty of fashionable boutiques and beauty destinations, including Moondance, Clare V. and Malin +

Goetz. Father’s Office is known for its burgers, and Sweet Lady Jane is famous for its cakes. Just minutes south of downtown Santa Monica, Main Street exudes a beachy, upscale vibe. The long stretch between Pico Boulevard and Rose Avenue contains a number of galleries, pubs, coffeehouses and restaurants, plus shops such as Lost & Found and Planet Blue. The California Heritage Museum is in a transplanted Victorian-era home, as is the aptly named Victorian, adjacent to the museum, which features a cool downstairs speakeasy, Basement Tavern.

Malibu A few miles north of Santa Monica on Pacific Coast Highway is Malibu. Formerly known as Rancho Malibu, Malibu’s land was once so coveted that May K. Rindge, who took ownership of it in 1905 after the death of her scion husband, used armed guards to defend it from trespassers. In the 1920s, Rindge’s hefty legal bills, racked up from fighting developers, forced her to invite stars to live in Malibu Colony, and the legacy of Malibu as celebrityhome central continues today.

great find

Perfect Fit Explore designer Sid Mashburn’s take on menswear essentials in his Brentwood Country Mart outpost: a locale as stylish and crisp as his clothing. The streamlined offering includes the brand’s full line, as well as classics and hard-to-find favorites from other labels. Worth noting: GQ has named Sid Mashburn America’s top men’s store. 225 26th St., Santa Monica, 310.319.1339, sidmashburn.com

clockwise from top left: courtesy santa monica place; dale berman; courtesy sid Mashburn. opposite: Brown cannon III/intersection photos

In the 1800s, orator Tom Fitch called Santa Monica “the Zenith City by the Sunset Sea.” The 21st-century version of Santa Monica fulfills its early promise, with a bustling downtown and beach that attract millions of visitors per year. Pacific Coast Highway connects SaMo with draws such as Malibu and Marina del Rey.

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NEW IN TOWN Malibu Burger Co.

This beachy burger joint offers healthy options (grass-fed beef, vegan patties), Kennebec french fries, milkshakes and more. 3874 Cross Creek Road, Malibu, 310.317.0153

MTN

Chef Travis Lett (Gjelina/Gjusta) is behind this new Japanese izakaya, pronounced “mountain.” 1305 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, mtnvenice.com

Tallula’s

Enjoy fresh Mexican fare at this colorful new eatery from the Rustic Canyon restaurant family. 118 Entrada Drive, Santa Monica, 310.526.0027

Santa Monica State Beach. Opposite, clockwise from top left: Santa Monica Place’s Dining Deck; Abbot Kinney Boulevard WHERE LOS ANGELES 27

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/ VENICE / BRENTWOOD / MARINA DEL REY

The Getty Villa

Many of Malibu’s best destinations are visible from PCH, including renowned restaurants with ocean views, from the casual (Malibu Seafood) to the upscale (Nobu Malibu). Adjacent to the Malibu Lagoon and Bird Sanctuary, the Adamson House is filled with historic tile. The celebrity-frequented Malibu Country Mart serves as the area’s town square. Together with the adjacent Malibu Village and Malibu Lumber Yard, there are plenty of shops and restaurants for whiling away an afternoon. Inland, nearing Calabasas, is wine country, where you can sample the local vino at tasting rooms such as Malibu Wines.

Topanga + Pacific Palisades In the 1960s, hippies and musicians such as Neil Young hid out in idyllic Topanga, accessible by Topanga Canyon Boulevard from Pacific Coast Highway. Removed from urban activity, it retains its bohemian vibe and independently owned businesses. Hiking

trails allow visitors to bask in Topanga’s woodsy beauty, and restaurants such as Inn of the Seventh Ray accommodate creekside dining. There’s more than initially meets the eye in seemingly sleepy, family-friendly Pacific Palisades, south of Topanga on PCH and accessed from Temescal Canyon Road. Hikers love the shady trails in Temescal Gateway Park, and cafés and upscale mom-and-pop shops can be found between Via de la Paz and Monument Street near Sunset Boulevard. The Self-Realization Fellowship Lake Shrine on Sunset is a 10-acre oasis with a lush garden and koi- and swan-filled lake. The crown jewel of the Palisades is the Getty Villa. Styled as a Julius Caesar-era villa, it’s filled with Greco-Roman antiquities.

Venice Abbot Kinney won in a coin toss the land that would become Venice. He sought to develop it as an American version of the Italian city; the canals are still

there, lined with multimilliondollar bungalows. His namesake Abbot Kinney Boulevard is Venice’s coolest section, where Gjelina, Intelligentsia Coffee & Tea and boutiques such as Bazar, Heist and Huset are the main attractions. Rose Avenue is also coming up, thanks to the emergence of hot restaurants such as reborn Rose Café-Restaurant and Café Gratitude, plus a smattering of hip shops including Parachute and new Monrow. Visitors strolling Ocean Front Walk get an eyeful, what with performers, vendors and Muscle Beach bodybuilders.

Brentwood Marilyn Monroe once called this affluent enclave northeast of Santa Monica home; it remains a favorite celebrity stomping ground. San Vicente Boulevard functions as the neighborhood’s main street, with copious independent shops, bakeries, cafés and restaurants. The petite Brentwood Country Mart, a charming open-air shopping center built in 1948, keeps retail offerings upscale. The area’s biggest draw is the Getty Center, the hilltop museum that boasts J. Paul Getty’s spectacular art collection and a beautiful central garden. Marina del Rey Marina del Rey’s main attraction is the marina, the largest man-made small-craft harbor in the world. Restaurants such as Cast & Plow and Cafe del Rey are positioned to take advantage of the views, and at the New England-style Fisherman’s Village, boat-rental and cruise companies such as Hornblower offer visitors assorted ways to get out on the water.

WF o r bold i t e m s , s e e t h e w h e r e g u i d e . F o r n e i g h b o r h o o d m a p s , s e e pa g e 76 .

Terrazza Lounge’s Tequila Honeysuckle cocktail

insider tips

seaside sips These beachside bars and restaurants offer refreshing cocktails and unbeatable ocean views. Geoffrey’s Malibu 27400 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu, 310.457.1519 The Lobster 1602 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica, 310.458.9294 Malibu Farm Restaurant 23000 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu, 310.456.8850 Mastro’s Ocean Club 18412 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu, 310.454.4357 Moonshadows 20356 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu, 310.456.3010 Nobu Malibu 22706 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu, 310.317.9140 On the Waterfront Cafe 205 Ocean Front Walk, Venice, 310.392.0322 Terrazza Lounge Hotel Casa Del Mar, 1910 Ocean Way, Santa Monica, 310.581.5533

from left: courtesy Getty Villa; courtesy terrazza lounge

TOPANGA + PACIFIC PALISADES

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A WORLD AWAY FROM THE ORDINARY, A BLOCK AWAY FROM THE BEACH

Basement Tavern

The Bike Shop

2640 Main Street 310 396 2469 basementtavern.com

2400 Main Street 310.581.8014 bikeshopsantamonica.com

Ashland Hill

Enterprise Fish Co.

2807 Main Street 310 392 3300 ashlandhill.com

174 Kinney Street 310 392 8366 enterprisefishco.com

The Happiest Hour on Main: join over 20 Main Street restaurants and bars for their featured Happy Hour deals up and down the street! 212 Pier Dolcenero Gelato Bike Shop Zumanity Bombshell Salon Circle Bar The Closet Trading Company Axiom Contemporary Ambiance Hair Studio Finn McCool’s KOKO One Life Natural Foods Accents Giant of Santa Monica 31Ten Dogtown Coffee Bareburger Mac 911 Bumble Bee Shoes Deluxe Nail Bar and Spa Groundwork Coffee Aaron Cleaners Angel City Books Amelia’s The Basement Anthony Schmitt Designs Beyond O2-Waterhouse Arts and Letters Ricks Tavern on Main Lost & Found Leon Max Miakel Bishay Salon Main Street Sunday Farmers Market LA Urban Fitness Natures Grooming & Boutique Pebbles Nails & Spa Duganne Ateliers Ashland Hill Crossfit Santa Monica Greens Up Hinterland OneWest Bank Santa Monica Beach Nail Spa T-Mobile Aussie Pie Kitchen Buffalo Exchange California Heritage Museum Bubble Beach Laundry Alchemie Spa Framm & Co. La Vecchia Cucina Max Muscle Hollywood Buster Shoe Repair Ben & Jerrys Hollywood Smoke Organic Nails & Spa Studio Brick + Mortar Bike Attack Electric Bryn Walker Eyes On Main hiptique Lorraine Colour Bar Bulletproof Coffee Edgemar Center for the Arts Clouds Art Luna Salon Chinois On Main Arts & Letters Urth Caffe Main Street Bagels Circuit Works Santa Monica Dove Hair Design Fleurs Du Jour Holy Guacamole Manchego Thai Vegan Kyle Mathis Salon Stansbury Collection The Famous Enterprise Fish Co SM The Victorian Trendy Sunglasses Main Attraction Nails & Spa Dhaba Cuisine of India Books and Cookies Lula Tim Clarke ZJ Boarding House 3 Twins Ice Cream Sea Shore Motel Pinkies Nail Spa Sunny Blue Novel Café Blossom Love Adorned Mindfulnest Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf Peet’s Muji Oeste Sisters & Gifts Glassware The Galley Fedora Primo Samosa House The Birdcage Pink Elephant

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La Vecchia Cucina 2654 Main Street 310 399 7979 lavecchiacucina.com

FOOD & DRINK BIKES SERVICES GYMS BOUTIQUES BEAUTY HOME & MORE EVENTS | MAINopoly | SOULstice Holiday Tree Lighting

8/21/17 11:50 8/21/17 11:48 AM AM

SUNSET STRIP

/ SUNSET PLAZA / MELROSE AVENUE / WEST HOLLYWOOD DESIGN DISTRICT

WEST HOLLYWOOD

SUNSET STRIP After dark, this iconic strip of Sunset Boulevard between Doheny Drive and Crescent Heights Boulevard becomes one of the hottest stretches of asphalt in L.A. County. The club scene here rocks with legendary establishments like the Roxy, the Whisky a Go Go and the Viper Room, which have a long history of hosting performances by rock ‘n’ roll’s finest. Newer nightclubs include Rock & Reilly’s and 1 OAK. The Comedy Store continues to showcase leading names and emerging stars in stand-up, and restaurants such as Estrella and BOA Steakhouse offer upscale fare. During the day, boutiques such as beloved Book Soup draw traffic. Hotels are an integral part of the Sunset Strip scene. Chateau Marmont, a glorious and notorious celebrity hangout throughout the decades, remains a discreet local getaway. At the Sunset Tower Hotel, Bugsy Siegel’s former suite has been converted

into the Tower Bar. And across the street, the property once known as “Riot Hyatt,” thanks to overzealous guests like Led Zeppelin, the Rolling Stones and Guns N’ Roses, is now the chic Andaz West Hollywood.

SUNSET PLAZA Sunset Plaza, between La Cienega and San Vicente boulevards on Sunset Boulevard, is a collection of tony shops and bistros with an international flavor and free parking—a novelty in this neighborhood. This is the city’s Euro Zone, where you’re apt to hear more French and Italian

than Valley Girl. For up-to-theminute fashion, check out Wildfox, Nicole Miller, Zadig & Voltaire or either of the two H. Lorenzo shops. Pamper yourself with a facial at Ole Henriksen Face/Body Spa, a blowout at Drybar or a makeover at Blushington. Then, refuel at Obicà Mozzarella Bar.

MELROSE AVENUE Melrose Avenue has become virtually synonymous with trendiness, and new expressions in fashion, art and food continue to percolate up and down this street that has mul-

tiple personalities. One part of Melrose, east of Fairfax Avenue, has a mix of indie boutiques, cafés, tattoo parlors and vintage shops. Stores such as Wasteland have wild facades and vibrant signage that add energy to the scene. Farther west, Melrose becomes très sophistiqué, showcasing upscale tastes at Assembly, Kelly Wearstler and Vivienne Westwood. Just off Melrose is the fashionable three-block stretch of Melrose Place, where Bentleys line up at chic Nine Zero One salon and cutting-edge boutiques such as Irene Neuwirth, Isabel Marant and the Apartment by the Line.

WEST HOLLYWOOD DESIGN DISTRICT Melrose Avenue’s flourishing art, fashion and design district runs along the pedestrianfriendly retail corridors of Melrose and Beverly and Robertson boulevards. Among its offerings are a Helmut Lang flagship and RH: The Gallery on Melrose Avenue. The district’s hub is the Pacific Design Center complex—monolithic blue, green and red buildings designed by celebrated architect Cesar

great find

SCENTS OF STYLE Fragrance fans may not know the name Orris Perfumery, but they’ve likely spritzed on its nuanced creations. Now, all six of the L.A.-based, husband-and-wife-owned perfumery’s brands are sold in a new flagship store, where each scent—like Musc et Madame Ambrette Rose, pictured left—is handcrafted in small batches. 7970 ½ Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.556.6026, orrisperfumery.com

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: EDWIN SANTIAGO; COURTESY OLE HENRIKSEN; COURTESY ORRIS PERFUMERY. OPPOSITE: DALE BERMAN

For a municipality measuring less than 2 square miles and with fewer than 35,000 residents, West Hollywood wields enormous influence over the L.A. lifestyle. With a number of world-class art galleries, boutiques, restaurants, nightclubs and theaters, it’s a frequent destination for locals and tourists alike.

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New In Town AllSaints

Shop edgy styles for both men and women at the British fashion house’s fifth L.A. boutique. 8585 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 310.499.0021

Rosaliné

Acclaimed chef Ricardo Zarate is back with a new restaurant— named after his mother —which introduces the “next phase of Peruvian dining.” 8479 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 323.297.9500

Vestry

This private whiskey lounge in the attic of Irish pub Tom Bergin’s stocks over 200 rare bourbons and ryes. 840 S. Fairfax Ave., L.A., vestryla.com

The Grove. Opposite, clockwise from top left: Robertson Boulevard; Ole Henriksen Face/Body Spa WHERE LOS ANGELES 31

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/ ROBERTSON BOULEVARD / FAIRFAX + MID-WILSHIRE

The Petersen Automotive Museum

Pelli—which houses more than 130 showrooms catering to professional designers and luxury-home owners and contains a satellite of downtown’s Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCA) and a stylish Wolfgang Puck eatery, Red Seven.

BEVERLY + WEST 3RD Beverly Boulevard and West 3rd Street, major east-west streets running through West Hollywood, are filled with restaurants, design showrooms and boutiques from some of the hottest up-and-coming clothing and accessories designers. The two streets bracket the landmark eight-level Beverly Center, which is undergoing a multimillion-dollar renovation. Bloomingdale’s, Fendi, Gucci and Jimmy Choo boutiques are among the center’s more than 160 establishments. On West 3rd Street east of Beverly Center, you’ll find favorite boutiques such as OK for design-oriented gifts, Pyrrha for handcrafted jewelry and Wittmore for contemporary

menswear. Great dining options include Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo’s seafood spot, Son of a Gun, and Vic Casanova’s cozy Italian restaurant Gusto. On Beverly Boulevard, you can shop for high-end home decor and accessories at Garde and fragrances at Eric Buterbaugh Florals.

ROBERTSON BOULEVARD Robertson Boulevard is no longer a paparazzi magnet, but it’s still home to shops that appeal to the modish set. Hit Chaser for vintage-inspired T-shirts; Reservoir for cool, under-the-radar brands; and Kitross for L.A.-inspired gifts. A cutting-edge Chanel concept store illustrates the difference between Robertson Boulevard and more staid Rodeo Drive. For a breather between boutique-hopping, consider a cocktail with crab cakes on the picket-fenced patio of Ivy restaurant, legendary for its celebrity clientele. Cecconi’s, just off Robertson, is also popular for power lunches.

FAIRFAX + MID-WILSHIRE L.A.’s Fairfax District and neighboring Mid-Wilshire are among the most culturally diverse neighborhoods in the Mid-City/West Hollywood area. At Fairfax Avenue and Wilshire Boulevard is the Los Angeles County Museum of Art (LACMA), a renowned facility with more than 100,000 works dating from the ancient period to today. Adjacent to LACMA is the famous La Brea Tar Pits and Museum, where the ice age comes alive. Additional venues on this Museum Row include the newly renovated Petersen Automotive Museum and the Craft & Folk Art Museum. South of the museums is a neighborhood known as Little Ethiopia, where traditional restaurants are located. To the museums’ east is the burgeoning District La Brea, a walkable stretch filled with hot restaurants like Odys + Penelope and hip boutiques including American Rag Cie and A+R. One of the Fairfax District’s anchors is the Original Farmers Market, established in 1934, with more than 100 produce stalls, shops and eateries. There are spots to satisfy virtually any craving, including a wine bar, a taqueria and a stand with authentic Louisiana gumbo. Adjacent and connected by a vintage trolley is The Grove, an outdoor, pedestrian-only shopping center. The Grove has the character of an old-fashioned village square, with stained-glass streetlamps and a central fountain. Nordstrom, a movie theater and stores such as American Girl Place, Apple, Paige and the first-ever Elizabeth and James boutique are joined by myriad restaurants including Blue Ribbon Sushi Bar & Grill.

WFOR BOLD ITEMS, SEE THE WHERE GUIDE. FOR NEIGHBORHOOD MAPS, SEE PAGES 76-77.

Casa Perfect

insider tips

DESIGN TIME Shop in style at these design depots in and around West Hollywood. A+R 171 S. La Brea Ave., L.A., 323.692.0086 Arteriors 8620 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 424.249.6855 Casa Perfect thefutureperfect.com/ los_angeles, 323.202.2025 Consort 6918 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.930.5688 Heath Ceramics 7525 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 323.965.0800 Lawson-Fenning 6824 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.934.0048 L’Eclaireur 450 N. Robertson Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.360.0262 Pacific Design Center 8687 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 310.360.6494 RH Modern 8772 Beverly Blvd., West Hollywood, 424.281.1326

FROM LEFT: MATT HARTMAN; LAUREN COLEMAN

BEVERLY + WEST 3RD

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Time-tested for 83 years and counting. Since 1934, The Original Farmers Market has been L . A .’s favorite gathering spot for locals and visitors alike. This living time capsule of Los Angeles history and culture is home to over 100 artisan grocers, eclectic shops and world-class eateries. No wonder it endures as one of L.A.’s favorite places to grab a bite, find the perfect souvenir and make a memory. Open daily.

6333 W. THIRD ST. • LOS ANGELES 323.933.9211 • FARMERSMARKETLA.COM #FARMERSMARKETLA Insta

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HOLLYWOOD + HIGHLAND

/ SHOWTIME / WALK OF FAME / MUSEUMS, HOLLYWOOD-STYLE / AROUND VINE

HOLLYWOOD “Hollywood is a state of mind” was a popular refrain when this legendary area of Los Angeles experienced a decline not long ago. But with hot new boutiques, restaurants, hotels and condos sprouting up, it has re-emerged as a bona fide destination, where throngs of international visitors mingle with colorful locals.

HOLLYWOOD + HIGHLAND Hollywood & Highland has been a catalyst for the rebirth of Hollywood Boulevard. Its Dolby Theatre is the home of the annual Academy Awards, and the central Babylon Court frames views of the iconic Hollywood sign (built in 1923 to advertise a housing development, the 45-foot-high letters originally read “Hollywoodland”). Other draws include Ohm nightclub, dining spots and shops such as Sweet! candy store and Louis Vuitton. Next door to Hollywood & Highland is the TCL Chinese Theatre (formerly Grauman’s Chinese Theatre), famous for its celebrity hand- and footprints embedded in the concrete out front. SHOWTIME Just across the street from Hollywood & Highland is the ornate, lavishly illuminated El Capitan Theatre. Masterfully restored by Disney, it offers special presentations of the

studio’s releases, combined with performances using an antique Wurlitzer pipe organ and children-pleasing stage shows. Jimmy Kimmel Live! tapes in an ABC studio next door. The Egyptian Theatre— built in 1922 around the time that King Tut’s tomb was discovered—screens eclectic artsy and classic fare. The landmark Pantages Theatre regularly stages megahit musicals (such as The Book of Mormon and highly anticipated Hamilton), and the Hollywood Palladium has a rich history of showcasing top-notch musicians.

WALK OF FAME The sidewalks along 15 blocks of Hollywood Boulevard (La Brea Avenue to Gower Street) and three blocks of Vine Street (Yucca Street to Sunset Boulevard) are inlaid with the legendary brass-and-terrazzo stars honoring celebrities from the entertainment industry. More than 2,400 stars are enshrined beneath tourists’ feet, but the roster is not without its quirks— Pee-wee Herman has a star, but Clint Eastwood doesn’t. Marilyn Monroe’s star is steps from Hollywood & Highland, and John Lennon’s is in front of

MUSEUMS, HOLLYWOOD-STYLE Hollywood has museums, but don’t expect to encounter Picasso or Monet. Next to TCL Chinese Theatre is Madame Tussauds Hollywood, filled with more than 100 wax figures ranging from legends like Clark Gable to contemporary stars including Taylor Swift and Jason Derulo. You can ponder zany accomplishments at the Guinness World Record Museum, while the Ripley’s Believe It or Not! Odditorium offers bizarre exhibitions. Movie buffs head to the Hollywood Museum in the historic Max Factor Building, which displays 10,000 artifacts showcasing 100 years of showbiz history, including Indiana Jones’ whip and the honeymoon dress worn by Marilyn Monroe after she married Joe DiMaggio. AROUND VINE The storied intersection of Hollywood Boulevard and Vine Street, the epicenter of the Hollywood Walk of Fame, boasted a large

great find

SILVER LAKE CHIC Laura and Jason O’Dell channel California cool at The ODells Shop, a destination for men’s and women’s clothing (including their easy, colorful namesake line), jewelry, decor and more with a vintage-inspired, but distinctly modern, look. Don’t miss the yurt in the backyard (pictured left), which hosts exhibitions and pop-ups. 3906 Sunset Blvd., L.A., 323.741.0039, theodellsshop.com

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: EDWIN SANTIAGO; MATT HARTMAN; JASON O’DELL. OPPOSITE: EDWIN SANTIAGO

the Capitol Records Building, the landmark structure designed to resemble a stack of records.

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NEW IN TOWN The Highlight Room

Tao Group’s new dining and nightlife concept at Dream Hollywood boasts a rooftop lounge, a pool, a grill and views of the Hollywood sign and L.A. skyline. 6417 Selma Ave., L.A., 323.844.6417

Tintorera

Dine on seafoodcentric Mexican fare at this pretty Silver Lake restaurant from chef Maycoll Calderón. 2815 Sunset Blvd., L.A., 323.741.0055.

Vinovore

Located next to her fried-rice spot, Hot Hot Food, Coly Den Haan’s new Silver Lake wine shop stocks wines from around the world, with a focus on female wine producers. 616 N. Hoover St., L.A., vino-vore.com

Hollywood Pantages Theatre. Opposite, clockwise from top left: Hollywood & Highland; an exhibit at the Hollywood Museum

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/ los feliz + silver lake / griffith park

The Autry Museum of the American West in Griffith Park

concentration of entertainmentindustry companies in the 1920s. It’s a different Hollywood today, but the magic of this location endures in the soaring W Hollywood Hotel & Residences and its Delphine brasserie. A Metro station is integrated into the hotel; Hollywood is particularly well served by mass transit. Across the street is boutique hotel the Redbury and its stylish Middle Eastern restaurant, Cleo, and bar, the Library. Sunset Boulevard and Vine is in transition, but dance clubs and eateries give this corner plenty of character. Serious cinephiles catch their flicks at ArcLight Cinemas, where it’s easy to spot a celeb. Close by is Amoeba Music, where music fans and collectors browse the aisles through 31,000 square feet of space packed with rare vinyl records, CDs and memorabilia. A couple of blocks west is the stylish minicomplex Space 15 Twenty, catering to shoppers well into the evening. The center is anchored by a supersize Urban Outfitters and complemented by cool boutiques.

Night crawling The revival of Hollywood has only enhanced its nightlife, and a lively bar-and-club scene permeates the district. On and around Hollywood Boulevard, you can party under the guise of literary advancement at library-themed the Study Hollywood, drink and dine at Houston Hospitality hot spot No Vacancy, and attempt to get past the velvet ropes at nightclubs like Playhouse and Project Club LA. Cahuenga Boulevard also is home to dozens of clubs and eateries, including chef Brendan Collins’ excellent Birch. Quintessentially L.A. but a galaxy removed from Hollywood Boulevard is the Hollywood Bowl, the largest outdoor amphitheater in the U.S., where the Los Angeles Philharmonic takes up residence from June to September. Picnicking under the stars here is among the most memorable experiences in L.A. Los Feliz + Silver Lake These neighborhoods are among the hippest in the county (and perhaps the country). Vermont Avenue, the main drag in Los

Feliz, presents a collection of shops and restaurants that range from bohemian to chic. Skylight Books and 24/7 diner Fred 62 are popular hangouts. Lounges such as Rockwell represent the neighborhood’s increasing sophistication. Nearby, a stretch of Hollywood Boulevard houses cult-favorite gift shop/gallery Soap Plant/Wacko and Bar Covell, and Barnsdall Art Park offers recreational opportunities including tours of Frank Lloyd Wright’s recently restored Hollyhock House. At Sunset Junction, where Sunset and Santa Monica boulevards intersect, Los Feliz transitions into Silver Lake. Foodies hang at casual Forage or the Cheese Store of Silverlake, while aspiring screenwriters hammer at their laptops and sip lattes at Intelligentsia Coffee & Tea. Farther east on Sunset Boulevard, cool beach gear at Mollusk Surf Shop and chic handbags at the Clare V. flagship beckon.

Griffith Park Among the largest urban parks in America, Griffith Park is an ideal place to hike, take a train ride, picnic, golf and more. The Charlie Turner Trailhead begins at Griffith Observatory, one of the great planetariums in the world and a frequent film location. The hike up Mount Hollywood provides views of the Hollywood sign, and the Greek Theatre, a 5,700-seat amphitheater, is a legendary music venue. Also here are the Los Angeles Zoo and Botanical Gardens and the Western-heritageoriented Autry Museum of the American West, both accessible from the Ventura (SR 134) or Golden State (I-5) freeways.

WF o r bold i t e m s , s e e t he w he r e g uid e . F o r ne i g hb o r h o o d m a p s , s e e pa g e 7 7.

Bottle service at Liaison

insider tips

after dark From intimate bars to thumping clubs, Hollywood’s hot nightlife venues keep it cool. Avenue 1601 Cahuenga Blvd., 323.593.7999 Black Rabbit Rose 1719 N. Hudson Ave., 323.461.1464 Boulevard3 6523 Sunset Blvd., 323.466.2144 Good Times at Davey Wayne’s 1611 N. El Centro Ave., 323.962.3804 La Descarga 1159 N. Western Ave., 323.466.1324 Liaison 1638 N. Las Palmas Ave., 310.984.6666 The Sayers Club 1645 Wilcox Ave., 323.871.8233 Spare Room Hollywood Roosevelt Hotel, 7000 Hollywood Blvd., 323.769.7296

from left: courtesy the Autry; courtesy liaison restaurant + Lounge

night crawling

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UNION STATION

/ GRAND AVENUE / BUNKER HILL / OLVERA STREET / HISTORIC DISTRICTS

DOWNTOWN With new restaurants and shops opening daily, downtown Los Angeles could not be hotter. Historic art deco structures share the streetscape with glass-clad towers, and even movie stars are snapping up lofts in century-old buildings. The arts scene roars to life here, where the laid-back image of L.A. hardly applies.

Union Station Union Station was the last of the grand railroad terminals built in the U.S. Its importance faded as the automobile began to dominate life in L.A., but the 77-yearold station has staged a comeback, thanks to a renovation and downtown’s new energy. From the station—the hub of the Metro system—you can board the Red Line to Hollywood and the San Fernando Valley or connect to the Blue Line to Long Beach or the Expo Line to Santa Monica. The Gold Line runs to Pasadena. Nonstop bus service to LAX is available 24/7. Metrolink commuter trains connect distant suburbs, and Amtrak trains offer coastal journeys. Grand Avenue The heart of L.A.’s performingarts scene and the site of its most dramatic architecture, Grand Avenue is beginning to live up to its name. On Bunker Hill, once filled with Victorian mansions, four venues make up a

formidable collection of stages at the Music Center. The Dorothy Chandler Pavilion is home to L.A. Opera, and the Ahmanson Theatre and the Mark Taper Forum host theatrical productions. The flashiest venue is architect Frank Gehry’s lauded Walt Disney Concert Hall, winter home of the Los Angeles Philharmonic, led by its vivacious music director, Gustavo Dudamel. Also housed at Disney Hall is REDCAT, which offers visual, performing and multimedia arts programming. After a show, take a stroll through the 12-acre Grand Park,

between Grand Avenue and Hill Street and 1st and Temple streets.

Bunker Hill Steps from the Ahmanson is the Cathedral of Our Lady of the Angels, designed by Spanish architect José Rafael Moneo. A short walk south on Grand is the Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCA), and across from it is The Broad museum, built by philanthropists Eli and Edythe Broad. Both sites house premier collections of contemporary art. The Omni Hotel and California Plaza are adjacent to MOCA;

Olvera Street The origin of the city of Los Angeles, dating back to 1781, is El Pueblo de Los Angeles, a collection of 27 buildings along festive pedestrian concourse Olvera Street. The city’s oldest building, Avila Adobe (circa 1818), is here, along with Mexican restaurants, mariachi bands and merchants offering arts and crafts. A few blocks away is the city’s oldest restaurant, Philippe the Original (1908), where a cup of joe is just 49 cents. Historic Districts Undergoing a renaissance is the Broadway Theatre District, home to once-opulent movie palaces. Several, such as the United Artists theater (now the

great find

Fine Prints Founded by sisters Hopie and Lily Stockman, Block Shop brings India’s textile culture to L.A. with its woodblock-printed products, created in cooperation with a family of printers and dyers in Bagru, Rajasthan. Email hello@blockshoptextiles.com to visit Block Shop’s studio and shop for framed prints, rugs, linens and more. 453 S. Spring St., Suite 1118, downtown, blockshoptextiles.com

clockwise from top left: iwan baan; dale berman; courtesy block shop. opposite: dale berman

nearby Angels Knoll is a welcome patch of greenery. Angels Flight, a vintage funicular (seen in La La Land) that climbs to California Plaza from Hill Street below, is due to reopen by Labor Day. At the foot of the hill, the Bunker Hill Steps rise five stories at the U.S. Bank Tower, and across the street is the art deco-style Central Library.

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NEW IN TOWN 3.1 Phillip Lim

The celebrated designer known for his chic-yet-effortless designs has relocated his L.A. flagship from Robertson to the Arts District. 734 E. 3rd St., downtown, 213.246.2588

Rossoblu

Sotto chef Steve Samson’s personal new project is dishing up Bologna-inspired Italian cuisine in the City Market South complex. 1124 San Julian St., downtown, 213.749.1099

Sari Sari Store

République pastry chef and James Beard Award nominee Margarita Manzke is behind this new Filipinofood stall at Grand Central Market. 317 S. Broadway, downtown, 323.320.4020

Grand Park. Opposite, clockwise from top left: The Broad museum; Mark Taper Forum at the Music Center

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/ CHINATOWN / LITTLE TOKYO / L.A. LIVE / EXPOSITION PARK the sleek Japanese American National Museum. The Geffen Contemporary, a branch of MOCA, is next door. At 2nd and Main streets is the former St. Vibiana cathedral, now home to stylish Redbird restaurant. To Little Tokyo’s east is the Arts District, which boasts buzzy shops and markets; galleries including Hauser & Wirth Los Angeles; a bevy of craft breweries; and such lauded restaurants as The Factory Kitchen, Officine Brera and Bestia.

Row DTLA lifestyle complex, near the Arts District

stylish Theatre at Ace Hotel), have been revived or restored to their original grandeur. Cool shops such as Acne Studios and BNKR lend cachet to the area. The Bradbury Building, constructed in 1893 in the Italian Renaissance Revival style, was featured in the film Blade Runner. Spring Street from 4th to 7th streets is a rapidly awakening area once referred to as the “Wall Street of the West.” Steps from this historic district is a row of trendy bars on 6th Street (between Main and Los Angeles streets) that includes the Varnish.

Shopping Districts Downtown’s heritage as a mercantile center is still evident in its historic shopping districts. The Jewelry District draws shoppers looking for deals on diamonds; in the neighboring Fashion District, you can find designer clothing items. At Santee Alley, an open-air bargain bazaar, designer trends breed low-priced knockoffs. The Flower District offers blooms at wholesale prices. For an

awesome mix of old-school produce vendors and lunch counters and new, upscale specialty stalls, Grand Central Market, near the foot of Angels Flight, is the place to go. And the FIGat7th shopping center is home to trendy boutiques and eateries.

Chinatown Chinatown is a great destination for sampling dim sum, dining at new foodie-favorite spots like Howlin’ Ray’s and Baohaus or browsing for clothing, tea or home goods. Cultural highlights include the ornate Thien Hau Temple. Pedestrianfriendly Chung King Road and Gin Ling Way are home to hip galleries; Broadway is lined with boutiques. Dodger Stadium is a short drive away, as is San Antonio Winery, which offers tours and tastings. Little Tokyo Little Tokyo’s bar scene is popping, and dining options range from traditional sushi at Japanese Village Plaza to seasonal small plates at Baldoria. Just a few steps down 1st Street is

L.A. Live The $2.5 billion L.A. Live project is home to Staples Center, as well as the Los Angeles Lakers, Clippers and Kings, and it hosts top pop acts, as does Microsoft Theater, which boasts state-ofthe-art acoustics. The Grammy Museum honors myriad music genres with videos, artifacts and interactive exhibits. A dozen restaurants and nightlife venues—WP24, new Cleo and Lucky Strike Lanes, to name a few—face a massive urban plaza lined with LED screens. The Los Angeles Convention Center, encompassing 16-plus acres of exhibition space, is also here. Exposition Park Just south of downtown is Exposition Park, whose grounds hold major museums and the Los Angeles Memorial Coliseum, temporary home of the L.A. Rams. The California African American Museum delves into black history, and the beauxarts-style Natural History Museum of Los Angeles County offers insight into prehistoric giants. The California Science Center has a 3-D Imax theater and exhibits the retired NASA space shuttle Endeavour.

WF or b ol d items , see where g u ide . F or a neighborhood map, see page 7 7.

Beta Main

insider tips

Let’s learn You know MOCA and the Broad, but DTLA’s also home to many great under-the-radar museums. A+D Museum 900 E. 4th St., downtown, 213.346.9734 The African American Firefighter Museum 1401 S. Central Ave., downtown, 213.744.1730 Beta Main 114 W. 4th St., downtown, 213.986.8500 FIDM Museum & Galleries 919 S. Grand Ave., Suite 250, downtown, 213.623.5821 Heritage Square Museum 3800 Homer St., L.A., 323.225.2700 Italian American Museum 644 N. Main St., downtown, 213.485.8432 USC Fisher Museum of Art 823 Exposition Blvd., L.A., 213.740.4561 Velveteria 711 New High St., downtown, 626.714.8545

from left: katie gibbs; elon schoenholz

SHOPPING DISTRICTS

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OLD PASADENA

/ PLAYHOUSE DISTRICT + SOUTH LAKE AVENUE / SAN MARINO + SAN GABRIEL VALLEY

PASADENA the Commons and Burlington Arcade. A drive south on Lake Avenue through one of the city’s most opulent residential neighborhoods leads to the Langham Huntington. Consider this grand, historic hotel for high tea, Japanese Kobe beef at its Royce steakhouse or pampering at its award-winning Chuan Spa.

OLD PASADENA A tribute to foresighted urban planning is the 22-square-block shopping district known as Old Pasadena, roughly bounded by Walnut and Green streets, Arroyo Parkway and Pasadena Avenue. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, it’s a collection of restored buildings filled with trendy boutiques, bistros and nightclubs. Merchants range from Tesla Motors to H&M, and eateries include Union, a top-rated Italian restaurant. Pedestrian-only alleys meander through the One Colorado project in the heart of Old Pasadena, where restaurants offer alfresco dining overlooking a sculpture-strewn square. Boutiques such as Vince and Cop. Copine draw shoppers, while iPic Theaters reimagines the moviegoing experience with state-of-the-art technology, plush seats and a bar/café. Nearby is the Norton Simon Museum, home to one of the finest art collections in the

West. The galleries are filled with works dating from the Renaissance to the 20th century, and the museum’s repertoire of impressionist masters (e.g., Monet, Cézanne, Van Gogh) is formidable. A sculpture garden features a major tribute to Degas. East of Old Pasadena is Paseo Colorado, a shopping center with an ArcLight movie theater, restaurants and shops lining garden promenades. Its open-air design frames views of Pasadena City Hall, a majestic landmark restored to its original beaux-arts grandeur.

PLAYHOUSE DISTRICT + SOUTH LAKE AVENUE Anchored by the Mission-style Pasadena Playhouse, this district offers art-house cinema, antique shops and bookstores, as well as the famed Ice House Comedy Club, whose stage has hosted George Carlin and Jerry Seinfeld. Other cultural attractions include the Boston Court Performing Arts Center and the Pasadena Museum of California Art. East of the Playhouse District, South Lake Avenue provides a vibrant shopping environment. Inviting boutiques are set around European-style courtyards at

SAN MARINO + SAN GABRIEL VALLEY South of the Langham is San Marino and its primary attraction, The Huntington, whose library, art collections, botanical gardens and new education and visitor center occupy one of the most remarkable pieces of real estate in Southern California. Here, the Italianate mansion of railroad magnate Henry Huntington houses an extraordinary collection of 18th- and 19th-century art. A library with nearly 9 million rare books, photographs and manuscripts occupies another structure. Throughout the 200-acre property are more than a dozen distinct botanical environments, the Helen and Peter Bing Children’s Garden and a formal rose garden boasting more than 1,200 rose varieties.

great find

FOWL PLAY The 127-acre Los Angeles County Arboretum & Botanic Garden has much more to offer guests than just the pretty plumage of the peacocks that roam its grounds (pictured left). Explore gardens with collections of rare and endangered plants and historic structures including the ornate Queen Anne Cottage, built in 1885. 301 N. Baldwin Ave., Arcadia, 626.821.3222, arboretum.org

TOP LEFT: DALE BERMAN; BOTTOM, COURTESY L.A. COUNTY ARBORETUM & BOTANIC GARDEN. OPPOSITE, FROM LEFT: DALE BERMAN; COURTESY BACARI GDL

Minutes from downtown L.A. via the Arroyo Seco Parkway (Pasadena Freeway) or the Metro Gold Line commuter train is Pasadena. Its architectural pedigree is world-class, and renowned institutions including the Tournament of Roses and Caltech lend it cachet. The city’s diverse neighbors are also worth discovering.

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/ SOUTH PASADENA / EAGLE ROCK + GLENDALE

Pasadena’s Colorado Bridge. Opposite, clockwise from top left: Pasadena City Hall; Huntington Gardens

Sharing Pasadena’s eastern border are the communities of Sierra Madre and Arcadia, home to Santa Anita Park, a storied thoroughbred-horse-racing venue. Arcadia is also home to the 127-acre Los Angeles County Arboretum & Botanic Garden, whose natural Southern California habitat is famous for its wild peacocks. Farther east, scattered along the San Bernardino Freeway (I-10), are the communities of San Gabriel, Temple City, Monterey Park and Alhambra, which have attracted large numbers of Chinese and Vietnamese immigrants. This means the opportunity for enjoying Asian cuisine is virtually unrivaled in Southern California. Tourists passionate about history, architecture or faith can explore the 1771 San Gabriel Mission, and the rugged San Gabriel Mountains present hiking opportunities for nature lovers.

SOUTH PASADENA The scenic route to South Pasadena on Orange Grove Boulevard passes through a stretch once known as Millionaire’s Row. Some splendid homes remain, including the former Wrigley Mansion (Tournament House), which now houses the Tournament of Roses Association. North of Old Pasadena, the boulevard leads to the Gamble House. This, the most famous achievement of architects Greene and Greene, is a classic representation of the Arts and Crafts movement that left its imprint on Pasadena. South Pasadena is a tranquil community whose Craftsman homes range from bungalows to mansions, and its Mission West Historic District is lined with antique shops, art galleries, casual cafés and kid-friendly spots like Fair Oaks Pharmacy, a restored drugstore from 1915.

EAGLE ROCK + GLENDALE West of Pasadena is Eagle Rock, a quiet college town reinventing itself as a trendy L.A. neighborhood. Its main drag of Colorado Boulevard is lined with a diverse collection of restaurants including Casa Bianca, a venerable old-school pizza joint. In Eagle Rock, students from highly ranked Occidental College— where a young Barack Obama once studied—mingle with young couples who are snapping up hillside real estate. On the far side of Eagle Rock is Glendale, the third-largest city in Los Angeles County. There, office workers pour out of highrises for happy hour at The Americana at Brand, an open-air shopping, residential and entertainment development. Stylesavvy shoppers can browse in boutiques, catch a movie or recharge at the Americana’s restaurants, which include the Philippe Starck-designed Katsuya and celebrity chef Michael Mina’s Bourbon Steak. Home to a large Armenian community, Glendale offers a wealth of ethnic eateries specializing in kebabs, shawarma and belly dancing. Marked by a towering neon obelisk is the Alex Theatre, a restored art deco masterpiece that hosts concerts and musicals. Steps from the Alex is the new Museum of Neon Art, dedicated to showcasing a quintessentially L.A. craft. North of Glendale is Montrose, whose main street of Honolulu Avenue is more Mayberry than L.A. Close by, in La Cañada Flintridge, is sprawling Descanso Gardens, with North America’s largest camellia collection—an awesome sight when in full bloom during January and February.

Bacari GDL’s Chocolate Chillini

insider tips

EAT, SIP, SHOP With all these spots to eat by the Americana at Brand, Glendale is a new dining destination. Bacari GDL 757 Americana Way, 818.696.1460 Bourbon Steak by Michael Mina 237 S. Brand Blvd., 818.839.4130 Din Tai Fung 177 Caruso Ave., 818.551.5561 Eggslut 252 S. Brand Blvd., Suite D, 818.484.5911 The Halal Guys 201 N. Brand Blvd., Suite 110, 818.546.1926 Mainland Poke Shop 252 S. Brand Blvd., Suite C, 818.291.9350 Shake Shack 252 S. Brand Blvd., 818.858.1612 The Tsujita 769 Americana Way, 818.553.3822

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Universal City

/ Burbank / North Hollywood / Ventura Boulevard / deep in the valley

The Valley

Universal City A couple of Metro stops north of the heart of Hollywood is Universal City, a major entertainment-industry outpost. The highlight is Universal Studios Hollywood, which offers a behind-the-scenes peek into moviemaking, plus a theme park with high-tech virtual-reality action rides. The new Wizarding World of Harry Potter attraction is all the buzz; also thrilling are the Despicable Me: Minion Mayhem attraction and the Simpsons Ride and its adjacent Springfield-themed “world.” Splurge for Universal’s VIP Experience, which pampers its guests with such perks as private tour guides, exclusive backlot access and unlimited front-of-line access in the theme park. Among the wide-ranging attractions next door at pedestrian-only Universal CityWalk are skydiving simulations at iFly Hollywood and mechanical bull riding at Saddle Ranch Chop House. Restaurants include

new Jimmy Buffett’s Margaritaville, Dongpo Kitchen, chef Ludo Lefebvre’s LudoBird and Voodoo Doughnut.

Burbank Burbank calls itself the “media capital of the world”—and with good reason. The city is home to some of the most famous players in the entertainment business, including Walt Disney Studios, Cartoon Network and Nickelodeon Animation Studio. Get a taste of the action on a Warner Bros. Studio Tour Hollywood or as part of the studio audience at a taping of one

of your favorite programs, such as The Ellen DeGeneres Show. The media district, which encompasses most of these companies, also boasts some newer cafés and dining destinations, including Coffee Commissary and Simmzy’s, as well as the iconic Bob’s Big Boy, which hosts a classic-car show every Friday. Burbank’s entertainment industry is hardly the city’s only draw. More than 160 restaurants and shops cater to locals and visitors alike. The downtown district offers a major-mall shopping experience, movie theaters and the country’s largest Ikea,

but surrounding streets, such as historic San Fernando Boulevard, have a more homegrown feel, with shops and trendy bistros such as Granville Cafe. Another must-visit district is hip Magnolia Park, centered at Magnolia Boulevard and Hollywood Way, which offers indie cafés, antique shops and the area’s best retro and vintage boutiques (Playclothes and Pinup Girl are favorites). Always-packed Porto’s Bakery offers excellent pastries and sandwiches from Europe and the owners’ native Cuba. Do you like the outdoors? Burbank is a gateway to the Verdugo Mountains, which are crisscrossed with hiking trails. A workout here is rewarded with spectacular views of Burbank, the Hollywood Hills and downtown L.A. For golf enthusiasts, DeBell Golf Club features regulation 18-hole and par-3 courses. And during the summer, outdoor amphitheater the Starlight Bowl hosts a music series. If you’re jetting into or out of L.A., you can escape the hassles of LAX by opting for uncongested Hollywood Burbank Airport. It offers nonstop flights to many cities across the country and

great find

Su(shH!)I Chef Phillip Frankland Lee’s drinks-and-bites gem Woodley Proper has a secret: Hidden behind a chalk-wall waitlist is an omakase speakeasy called Sushi|Bar. Wednesday through Sunday, three times per night at eight counter seats, guests can enjoy 16 playful courses that might include fresh scallop (pictured left) and yellowtail brushed with sweet-corn pudding. (See Insider Tips, opposite.)

clockwise from top left: Dale berman (2); jakob layman. Opposite, from left: Dale berman; courtesy soca

The Valley is a sprawling collection of communities, each with its own attractions and charms. Immortalized in movies as diverse as Chinatown and Valley Girl, the area derives its name from Mission San Fernando Rey de España, the historic landmark on the Valley’s northernmost edge.

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Hogwarts Castle at Universal Studios Hollywood. Opposite, clockwise from top left: Universal CityWalk; Idle Hour in North Hollywood

is centrally located, with easy access to Hollywood, downtown L.A. and the San Gabriel Valley.

NORTH HOLLYWOOD North Hollywood wasn’t much of a tourist destination until the community transformed its commercial core into the NoHo Arts District, now filled with nearly two dozen professional theaters, including the landmark El Portal Theatre. These venues present some of the most innovative stage performances in L.A., and neighboring dance studios and art galleries contribute to the scene. With restaurants like the Federal Bar, a lively gastropub, and Idle Hour, a bar in a barrel-shaped, refurbished landmark building from the 1940s, the momentum continues for this transit-linked urban village. From NoHo’s Metro station, you can access central Holly-

wood and downtown via the Red Line subway or board the Orange Line, a sleek express bus that traverses the entire San Fernando Valley.

VENTURA BOULEVARD This iconic, palm-lined boulevard stretches 20 miles across the San Fernando Valley. Immortalized in music by Frank Zappa and Tom Petty, the boulevard is an integral part of L.A. culture and home to a burgeoning dining scene. In Studio City, it’s lined with eateries, including entertainment-industry-favored Art’s Deli, newer favorite the Bellwether and a greater concentration of acclaimed sushi bars (such as Asanebo) than Little Tokyo claims. For shopping, there are charming boutiques and beauty retreats such as Face Haus facial bar. Hip bars and restaurants including Firefly have helped to launch a nightlife scene.

Farther west, as the boulevard winds its way through Sherman Oaks, you’ll encounter laid-back trattorias and bistros, as well as shops such as Abundance, a boutique showcasing plus-size designer fashions. Sherman Oaks is also home to Westfield Fashion Square, anchored by Macy’s and Bloomingdale’s and featuring upscale boutiques. Sherman Oaks Galleria is near the junction of the 405 and 101 freeways; draws include ArcLight Cinemas, where there’s a chance you’ll see famous faces drawn to the Valley by its family-oriented lifestyle.

DEEP IN THE VALLEY Westfield Topanga shopping center is loaded with exclusive designer boutiques, including Louis Vuitton and David Yurman. The Village lifestyle destination opened last fall, expanding the center’s retail and dining options. Farther west off the Ventura Freeway (U.S. 101) is Calabasas, where celebrities move for more elbow room. Upscale shopping and casual eateries live at the Commons at Calabasas, an elegant open-air destination. A few exits beyond that is Westlake Village, where locals hit the luxurious spa or do lunch at the Four Seasons. Visitors to the Ronald Reagan Presidential Library and Museum in neighboring Simi Valley can step aboard an actual Air Force One, visit a full-size replica of the White House Oval Office and learn all about America’s 40th president. North on the Golden State Freeway (I-5) in Valencia, coaster lovers gather at Six Flags Magic Mountain for rides too wild for Disneyland.

Soca’s Southeast Asian steak salad

insider tips

GOURMET GEMS The Valley’s dining renaissance is evident at these restaurants along Ventura Boulevard. Asanebo 11941 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, 818.760.3348 Augustine Wine Bar 13456 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks, 818.990.0938 Barrel & Ashes 11801 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, 818.623.8883 The Bellwether 13251 Ventura Blvd., Suite A, Studio City, 818.285.8184 Firefly 11720 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, 818.762.1833 Soca 14015 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks, 818.301.4300 Sushi Katsu-ya 11680 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, 818.985.6976 Woodley Proper 16101 Ventura Blvd., Suite 242, Encino, 818.906.9775

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MANHATTAN BEACH

/ HERMOSA BEACH / REDONDO BEACH

SOUTH BAY the specialty shops and eateries that line Pier Avenue. Farther east, Becker’s carries surfboards and beachwear.

MANHATTAN BEACH Nineteen miles southwest of downtown Los Angeles, Manhattan Beach boasts 2 miles of beaches with sand so fine that developers exported it to Waikiki Beach in the 1920s. Laid-back Manhattan Beach is home to many professional athletes: You might spot an L.A. Kings player as you walk along the Strand, the pedestrian promenade sandwiched between multimillion-dollar homes and the beachfront bike trail. At the end of the city’s picturesque pier, the Roundhouse Aquarium delights with touch tanks. The pier features plaques commemorating winners of the Manhattan Beach Open—the South Bay is die-hard beach-volleyball country. It’s also a playground for water-sports enthusiasts, including bodyboarders and surfers. East of the pier along Manhattan Beach Boulevard and Manhattan Avenue are chic boutiques and a burgeoning dining scene, with restaurants

such as Fishing With Dynamite, Love & Salt, Little Sister and The Strand House drawing gourmets from across L.A. The Metlox center is a popular gathering place, with shops such as the Beehive and hot spots including Zinc at Shade hotel.

HERMOSA BEACH Head south on Manhattan Avenue to Pier Avenue, the heart of Hermosa Beach. Hermosa shares many characteristics with Manhattan Beach, including its own scenic 2-mile stretch of beachfront punctuated by volleyball nets, fitness buffs

weaving along the Strand (here merged with the bike path) and a pier studded with bronze plaques commemorating surfing legends. Come late afternoon, the pedestrian plaza at the foot of the pier becomes a different kind of South Bay scene, thanks to spillover from bars and restaurants such as Hennessey’s Tavern and Playa Hermosa Fish and Oyster. Beyond Pier Plaza, on Hermosa Avenue, Jay Leno still draws crowds to the Comedy & Magic Club Sunday nights. To the plaza’s east, café/boutique Gum Tree and the Hook & Plow are standouts among

REDONDO BEACH The largest of L.A. County’s beach cities, Redondo Beach is home to the 1,457-seat Redondo Beach Performing Arts Center and a recreational waterfront featuring 2 miles of sandy beaches, the popular Redondo Beach Pier and King Harbor. Sepulveda Boulevard becomes Pacific Coast Highway as it enters town; signs point west to King Harbor’s Redondo Beach Marina, one of four marinas in the harbor. Here businesses such as Redondo Sportfishing offer fishing excursions and whale-watching tours, while other local outfitters rent out kayaks, paddleboats, bicycles and wave runners. South of the harbor, the historic Redondo Beach Pier has had its ups and downs, but it keeps rising from the ashes to attract locals and visitors to quick-and-casual eateries, amusements and souvenir shops. South of the pier, the gentle waves and somewhat narrow strip of Redondo State Beach

great find

SHOP THE SPECTRUM Anthropologie alum Dayna Mance’s free-spirited style is writ large in her colorful Belmont Heights store, Prism Boutique. Stop by for festival-ready apparel and accessories, vintage and new jewelry, locally made home decor (like the Prism x LOREM plant hangers pictured left) and pretty gifts you’ll want to keep for yourself. 406 Termino Ave., Long Beach, 562.433.4341, prismboutique.com

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: COURTESY L.A. COUNTY DEPT. OF BEACHES & HARBORS; COURTESY AQUARIUM OF THE PACIFIC; COURTESY PRISM BOUTIQUE. OPPOSITE: EDWIN SANTIAGO

In the South Bay, the cities of Manhattan Beach, Hermosa Beach and Redondo Beach occupy an idyllic coastal stretch known for surfing and volleyball. To the north is El Segundo; to the south are the beautiful bluffs of the Palos Verdes Peninsula and the bustling waterfronts of San Pedro and Long Beach.

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NEW IN TOWN Irene’s Story

Shop affordable, feminine fashions at this cute brand’s Plaza El Segundo boutique. 2008 Park Place, El Segundo, 310.616.3488

Lasher’s Kitchen

After five years, this local-favorite restaurant reopens in Belmont Shore with its beloved meatloaf and clam chowder—and a new casual bent. 5295 E. 2nd St., Long Beach, 562.343.7228

Two Guns Kitchen

The New Zealandinspired Manhattan Beach coffee favorite opens a second South Bay outpost, serving all-day breakfast and lunch along with its premium espresso and flat whites. 321 Main St., El Segundo, 310.416.9194

The Redondo Beach Pier. Opposite, clockwise from top left: The Manhattan Beach Pier; an exhibit at the Aquarium of the Pacific WHERE LOS ANGELES 47

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palos verdes Peninsula

/ san pedro / long beach shops, and beyond it is the marina, part of the Cabrillo Beach Recreational Complex. The complex also includes the Frank Gehry-designed Cabrillo Marine Aquarium and Cabrillo Beach— one of the county’s most popular windsurfing spots.

draw crowds during the summer, while the bike path meanders by on its way to its terminus at Torrance State Beach. One block east of the beach, the Riviera Village shopping district has a small-town feel, with restaurants and specialty boutiques such as Cami and the Catalina Cooking Store covering a six-block radius.

Palos Verdes Peninsula Beyond Redondo Beach rises the Palos Verdes Peninsula, a rugged 26-square-mile area known for majestic bluffs that afford sweeping views of the Pacific Ocean and Santa Catalina Island. Head a few miles inland via Palos Verdes Drive North to the 87-acre South Coast Botanic Garden, a year-round attraction boasting 200,000 plants. Or hug the coast on Palos Verdes Drive West to Rancho Palos Verdes’ Point Vicente Interpretive Center, a popular gray-whalewatching site. Just beyond the adjacent Point Vicente lighthouse is the Mediterranean-style Terranea Resort, which offers fine dining, a 50,000-square-

foot oceanfront spa and a public nine-hole golf course. Farther along is the Wayfarers Chapel, designed by Frank Lloyd Wright’s son Lloyd Wright. The impressive Swedenborgian “glass church” is a popular wedding venue.

San Pedro The multicultural community of San Pedro, on the southeastern side of the Palos Verdes Peninsula, was once the largest commercial fishing port in the nation. Today it’s home to the bustling 7,500-acre Port of Los Angeles, which features passenger and cargo terminals, as well as a crafts marketplace and new brewery Brouwerij West. Catalina Express operates from Berth 95, offering daily boat service to Catalina’s quaint city of Avalon and rustic village of Two Harbors. More than a million travelers pass through the World Cruise Center (Berths 91-93) annually; adjacent to the complex is the battleshipturned-museum Battleship USS Iowa. The New England-style Ports O’ Call Village offers waterfront restaurants and

WF o r bold i t e m s, s e e t he w he r e g uide . F o r a ne i ghb o r h o o d m a p, s e e pa ge 7 7.

Roundhouse Aquarium

insider tips

FAMILY time Manhattan Beach’s downtown is filled with spots sure to delight your whole brood. Bella Beach Kids 225 Manhattan Beach Blvd., 310.545.9990 Farmers Market 13th Street & Morningside Drive, mbfarmersmarket.com (Tuesdays 11 a.m.-4 p.m.) Live Oak Park Tot Lot 1601 Valley Drive, citymb.info/visitors Manhattan Beach Creamery 1120 Manhattan Beach Ave., 310.372.1155 Nikau Kai Surf x Cafe 1140 Highland Ave., 310.545.7007 Pages: A Bookstore 904 Manhattan Ave., 310.318.0900 Roundhouse Aquarium Manhattan Beach Pier, 2 Manhattan Beach Blvd., 310.379.8117 Uncle Bill’s Pancake House 1305 Highland Ave., 310.545.5177

from left: Niaz Uddin; suzanne ennis

Santa Catalina Island

Long Beach In the county’s southwest corner, Long Beach is home to a busy commercial port, an attractionpacked waterfront and more than 5 miles of beaches. A popular draw is the 1,020-foot-long Queen Mary, a historic, supposedly haunted ship-turned-hotel, dining and shopping attraction permanently moored in Long Beach Harbor. The Long Beach Convention & Entertainment Center, the Pike Outlets, the Aquarium of the Pacific and Shoreline Village are nearby. From the village, you can follow the Shoreline pedestrian bike path 3.1 miles, past the Long Beach Museum of Art and into the Belmont Shore neighborhood. Here you’ll find shops and restaurants along 2nd Street, Bay Shore Beach, the Belmont Pier and windsurfing and kite-surfing lessons. Across a small channel is Naples, where you can take gondola rides through the canals and dine at restaurants such as Michael’s on Naples. Downtown, along 4th Street between Junipero and Cherry avenues, vintage-furniture and clothing shops make up funky “Retro Row.” In the emergent East Village Arts District, hip galleries and boutiques are sprouting where Linden Avenue meets Broadway. Farther east, an impressive collection of modern and contemporary works decks the walls of the Museum of Latin American Art.

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WHERE CUISINE MEETS THE L.A. SCENE

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THE GUIDE WHERE

ART + CULTURE

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The Art of Fantasy Los Angeles County Museum of Art takes visitors on a tour of a whimsical wonderland conjured by Russian artist Marc Chagall in Chagall: Fantasies for the Stage, continuing through Jan. 7, 2018. The ticketed exhibition celebrates the role music and dance played in Chagall’s artistic practice by focusing on his dream-inspired, handpainted set and costume designs, chiefly from four stage productions: the ballet Aleko, set to music by Pyotr Tchaikovsky (1942); The Firebird by Igor Stravinsky (1945); Daphnis and Chloe by Maurice Ravel (1958); and Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart’s opera The Magic Flute (1967), a costume from which is pictured here. The exhibition also presents a selection of Chagall’s paintings, nearly 100 sketches and rare 1942 footage of the original Aleko performance, all shedding light on a side of this leading artist rarely seen by the public. See listing under Museums for address details.

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/ DINING AMERICAN 71ABOVE Chef Vartan Abgaryan (Cliff’s Edge) heads up this restaurant on the 71st floor of the U.S. Bank Tower. In addition to skyline views, expect elevated modern American dishes like foie gras and a farm egg with crispy potato, chorizo, finger lime and cilantro. À la carte options are available at the bar, and prix-fixe lunch and dinner menus are offered in the main dining room and several private dining spaces. L (M-F), D (nightly). 633 W. 5th St., 71st Floor, downtown, 213.712.2683 $$$$ Map H16 ANIMAL Bare-bones eatery, from the guys known to Food Network fans as the “Two Dudes,” is a carnivore’s dream. Dishes include delectable takes on offal (such as crispy pig ear) and a bacon-chocolate-crunch bar for dessert. D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 435 N. Fairfax Ave., L.A., 323.782.9225 $$$ Map I13 BIRCH Cahuenga Corridor spot from chef Brendan Collins serves a seasonally driven menu in a whitewashed, clean-lined space. D (Tu-Su), Sunday roast noon-4 pm. 1634 N. Cahuenga Blvd., Hollywood, 323.960.3369 $$$ Map H13

Italia Meets L.A. New restaurants from renowned chefs are serving traditional Italian fare with a SoCal accent. Chef Steve Samson of Sotto (p. 58) recently opened stylish Rossoblu in the Fashion District, where he serves Bolognese family favorites (1124 San Julian St., downtown, 213.749.1099). Chef Evan Funke, who also honed his culinary craft in Bologna, now wows diners (and critics) with handmade pastas at Felix in Venice (p. 58). Wood-fired pizzas are king at casual Cosa Buona (2100 W. Sunset Blvd., L.A., 213.908.5211), chef Zach Pollack’s Echo Park sequel to Alimento (p. 58). And chef Vic Casanova’s beloved Gusto has moved into Pistola’s former space, giving the chef more spacious digs in which dishes like eggplant parmigiana (pictured above) can shine (8022 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.782.1778).

CLIFTON’S This kitschy downtown cafeteria, which dates to the 1930s, recently reopened after a multimilliondollar renovation. The multiple-story eatery offers oldschool cuisine, with a roast-meat-carving station and JellO for dessert, as well as a craft-beer bar and the Pacific Seas Tiki bar. L, D (Tu-Su). 648 S. Broadway, downtown, 213.627.1673 $$ Map I16 CRAFT New York chef Tom Colicchio of TV’s Top Chef brings his signature concept to L.A. The restaurant delivers a contemporary American à la carte menu, with fun, shareable dishes including roasted octopus and diver scallops with vermouth butter. L (M-F), D (M-Sa). 10100 Constellation Blvd., L.A., 310.279.4180 $$$$ Map K11 DELILAH This celebrity-favored restaurant/lounge from the H.Wood Group pays homage to the Roaring ‘20s and offers a menu of classic and modern American cuisine (e.g., deviled eggs, chicken tenders and funnel cake). It’s the perfect spot for drinks, dinner and dancing. Reservation-only. D (nightly). 7969 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood, 323.745.0600 $$$ Map H12 FREDS AT BARNEYS Inside Beverly Hills retail destination Barneys New York, the first West Coast outpost of the retailer’s signature restaurant is a go-to for brunch, power lunches, shopping breaks and happy hour. Try the striking pizza with Robiola and truffle oil or the Beverly Hills club sandwich. Balconies boast views of the Hollywood sign and Beverly Hills. L (daily), Br (Sa-Su). 9570 Wilshire Blvd., Fifth Floor, Beverly Hills, 310.777.5877 $$$ Map J11 GWEN Maude chef Curtis Stone and brother Luke’s restaurant—named after their maternal grandmother— features meat-centric tasting menus served in an art deco dining room, plus a European-style butcher shop in the front that offers sandwiches. D (Tu-Sa). 6600 Sunset Blvd., L.A., 323.946.7513 $$$ Map H14 THE INDEPENDENCE This bright, friendly tavern in downtown Santa Monica, which pays homage to the Los Angeles & Independence Railroad, offers a great happy hour and a menu of New American cuisine that includes blistered shishito peppers and seafood stew with chorizo and shrimp broth. L (Tu-F), D (Tu-Su), Br (Sa-Su). 205 Broadway, Santa Monica, 310.458.2500 $$$ Map L8 INK.WELL The approachable menu at this new location of Top Chef winner Michael Voltaggio’s first restaurant, ink., incorporates menu signatures and classics from the ink. program, and the detached bar area is triple the size of the original. D (nightly). 826 N. La Cienega, L.A., 310.358.9058 $$$ Map J12

GUIDELINES

Map locators at the end of each listing (Map A3; Map H10, etc.) refer to maps in the back of this issue. Compendium includes editors’ recommendations and advertisers.

INDEX American........................54 Japanese........................58 Breweries/Gastropubs..56 Mediterranean...............59 British/Irish....................56 Mexican/Latin................60 California........................56 Pan-Asian.......................60 Chinese...........................56 Seafood...........................60 Eclectic/Fusion..............57 Spanish...........................60 French............................57 Steak...............................60 Italian..............................58 Thai.................................61

JIMMY’S FAMOUS AMERICAN TAVERN This rusticyet-sophisticated restaurant offers creative takes on American regional classics. Try the Jimmy burger with jalapeño jam, pimento cheese and applewood smoked bacon, followed by the “Bananageddon” sundae for dessert. L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 1733 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica, 424.292.5222 $$ Map M8 JOAN’S ON THIRD Celebrity-frequented café on busy West 3rd Street and a newer location in the Valley offer omelets, sandwiches, salads, soups and sweets, plus picnic baskets and gourmet items. B, L, D (daily). 8350 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.655.2285; 12059 Ventura Place, Studio City, 818.201.3900 $ Map I12, T18 LEDLOW/P.Y.T. At Ledlow, chef Josef Centeno, who rules downtown’s Old Bank District (Bäco Mercat, Bar Amá, Orsa & Winston), offers twists on classic bistro dishes, American favorites and diverse cultural staples. Half of the space has now been transformed into the vegetable-focused concept P.Y.T. Ledlow: L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). P.Y.T.: L (M-F), D (Tu-Sa), Br (Sa-Su). 400 S. Main St., downtown, 213.687.7015 $$ Map I17 M.B. POST Chef David LeFevre serves small plates of seafood, fresh-baked breads, cured meats and more in the space of a former post office. The “Eat Your Vegetables” menu makes green beans and Brussels sprouts look tantalizing. L (F-Su), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 1142 Manhattan Ave., Manhattan Beach, 310.545.5405 $$$ Map L13 ODYS + PENELOPE Churrasco and grill from Karen and Quinn Hatfield features a live-fire grill and woodfired smoker. Eclectic, flavorful cuisine is accompanied by a menu of craft beer, wine and handcrafted cocktails. Vegan, vegetarian and gluten-free options also available. D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 127 S. La Brea Ave., L.A., 323.939.1033 $$$ Map B2 PLAN CHECK KITCHEN + BAR Minichain offers contemporary takes on American classics, complemented by craft beers and premium whiskeys. Try the acclaimed Plan Check burger. L.A., downtown: L, D (daily); Br (Su). Santa Monica: L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 1800 Sawtelle Blvd., L.A., 310.444.1411; 351 N. Fairfax Ave., L.A., 323.591.0094; 1111 Wilshire Blvd., downtown, 213.403.1616; 1401 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica, 310.857.1364 $$ Map K9, I12, H16, L8 REDBIRD Chef Neal Fraser’s contemporary American cuisine is offered in the rectory of the former Cathedral of St. Vibiana. Rack of red wattle pork and chicken potpie are part of an intriguing menu. An updated Spanish Baroque decor and retro-inspired cocktails complete the scene. D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 114 E. 2nd St., downtown, 213.788.1191 $$$ Map H17

W Eggs Benedict, Waldorf salad and Thousand Island dressing are among the dishes created at a Waldorf Astoria. See Jean-Georges BH on p. 56.

SKOTT SNIDER

THE GUIDE

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DINING COMMERSON Newer neighborhood spot Commerson serves eclectic bistro fare with a French accent. Dine on menu highlights like a wild Pacific white shrimp and chorizo burger and roasted Creekstone Farms petit filet mignon with seared Rougié foie gras. The wine selection focuses on varietals from France and Italy; cocktails are fresh and simple. D (Tu-Su). 788 S. La Brea Ave., L.A., 323.813.3000 $$ Map B2 EVELEIGH With a menu chockablock with farm-fresh veggies and meats and a country-chic space, Eveleigh projects an image of cool rusticity. The kitchen endeavors to use housemade ingredients right down to the apple gomme syrup in your cocktail and the brioche toast slices with your Jidori-chicken-liver pâté. L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 8752 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 424.239.1630 $$ Map H12

BREWERIES/GASTROPUBS

THE FRONT YARD This restaurant at the Garland hotel features fresh farm-to-table cuisine from chef Larry Greenwood. Start your meal with chive flatbread topped with chimichurri butter, then move on to entrées like Mary’s Chicken. B, L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 4222 Vineland Ave., North Hollywood, 818.255.7290 $$ Map U19

ABIGAILE A venture of Blackhouse Hospitality (Little Sister, Steak & Whisky, Día de Campo), this funky, graffitimuraled American brasserie with a rooftop bar is lots of fun. Executive chef Tin Vuong presents escargot “poppers” washed down with house-brewed beer. D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 1301 Manhattan Ave., Hermosa Beach, 310.798.8227 $$ Map L13

HINOKI & THE BIRD Inside luxury residential tower the Century, taste Japanese and Southeast Asian flavors in such dishes as lobster rolls with green curry and Thai basil, and black cod scented with the smoke of the namesake hinoki wood. L (M-F), D (Tu-Sa). 10 W. Century Drive, Century City, 310.552.1200 $$$ Map J10

FATHER’S OFFICE Microbrew mecca; one of L.A.’s best burgers. A new downtown location is in the works. Santa Monica: L (Sa-Su), D (nightly). Culver City: L (F-Su), D (nightly). 1018 Montana Ave., Santa Monica; 3229 Helms Ave., Culver City, 310.736.2224 $$ Map L8, L11

JEAN-GEORGES BEVERLY HILLS Michelin-rated French chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s namesake restaurant at the new Waldorf Astoria Beverly Hills is an opulent indoor/outdoor fine-dining destination, perfect for enjoying fresh, local cuisine. B, L, D (daily). 9850 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.860.6566 $$$ Map J11

SIMMZY’S Popular pub with locations in Manhattan Beach, Long Beach, Burbank and just off the Venice pier serves up hearty burgers (try the classic Simmzy’s), sandwiches, salads and other fresh fare. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 3000 W. Olive Ave., Burbank, 818.962.2500; 5271 E. 2nd St., Long Beach, 562.439.5590; 229 Manhattan Beach Blvd., Manhattan Beach, 310.546.1201; 37 Washington Blvd., Venice, 424.835.6580 $ Map T20, O17, L13, N9

LOVE & SALT Dine on creative Cal-Italian fare (e.g., duck-egg pizza and whole roasted pig head) in this buzzy South Bay spot. Chef de cuisine/pastry chef Rebecca Merhej’s desserts are divine. D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 317 Manhattan Beach Blvd., Manhattan Beach, 310.545.5252 $$$ Map L13

BRITISH/IRISH TEA ROSE GARDEN This whimsical, English-garden tearoom, an Old Pasadena fixture for 20 years, serves traditional fare including scones, finger sandwiches and salads sprinkled with flower petals. A florist and boutique selling tea trays and loose-leaf teas are also on-site. B, L, Br (daily). 70 N. Raymond Ave., Pasadena, 626.578.1144 $$ Map Q20 YE OLDE KING’S HEAD Cozy pub/restaurant with traditional English fare, including acclaimed fish and chips. B, L, D (daily); high tea (M-Sa). 116 Santa Monica Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.451.1402 $ Map L8

CALIFORNIA CUISINE 208 RODEO This gem of a café boasts a picturesque setting above Via Rodeo’s cobblestone street at luxe Two Rodeo—the perfect place to while away an afternoon and enjoy all-day California cuisine with pan-Asian and French influences. Standout dishes include wagyu burgers, seafood salad and penne arrabbiata. B, L, D (daily). Two Rodeo, 208 Via Rodeo Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.275.2428 $$ Map J11 CAVATINA Esteemed East Coast chef Michael Schlow’s first L.A. restaurant serves simple, local, delicious cuisine inside the rock ‘n’ roll-steeped Sunset Marquis hotel. Don’t miss Schlow’s award-winning burger and the decadent Sunday brunch. B, L, D (daily); Br (Su). 1200 Alta Loma Road, West Hollywood, 310.358.3759 $$$ Map H12

MAUDE Celebrity chef Curtis Stone, an Aussie with a strong classical background, helms this intimate, 24-seat Beverly Hills restaurant named after his paternal grandmother. Every month a different seasonal ingredient is showcased and artfully presented in a 10-course menu. D (Tu-Sa). 212 S. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.859.3418 $$$$ Map J11 MICHAEL’S Michael McCarty’s influential farm-to-table restaurant, opened in 1979, is refreshed and back in the spotlight. New to the kitchen is acclaimed chef Miles Thompson (Allumette, Nobu, Son of a Gun), whose menu includes such innovative, ingredient-driven dishes as duck confit with rose geranium, sweet potato and pomegranate. Ask about California cult wines in the cellar collection. D (M–Sa). 1147 3rd St., Santa Monica, 310.451.0843 $$$ Map L8 PALEY Located in historic Columbia Square, this glamorous restaurant (named after former CBS CEO William S. Paley) pays homage to the Golden Age of Hollywood. Inside a midcentury-modern dining room, dine on classic dishes with a modern twist, such as braised pork belly with applesauce, frisée and whole-grain mustard. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 6115 Sunset Blvd., Suite 100, L.A., 323.544.9430 $$$ Map H14 PLANT FOOD + WINE Restaurant from Matthew Kenney takes a raw, locally sourced and plant-based approach to dining. Pair your meal with a glass of wine from an extensive organic and biodynamic selection. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 1009 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 310.450.1009 $$$ Map N9 RUSTIC CANYON Discover boutique wines while sampling small plates of market-driven, Mediterraneaninspired fare. Clam pozole is just one of the winners.

Hide in a cozy booth or mingle at the communal table. D (nightly). 1119 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.393.7050 $$$ Map L8 SPAGO An L.A. institution, Wolfgang Puck’s flagship restaurant features a modern dining room and a daily changing menu that may include dishes like veal “Wiener schnitzel” and spicy tuna tartare. Glimpse some of the 30,000 wine bottles on offer in a glass-ensconced “wine wall.” L (Tu-Sa), D (nightly). 176 N. Cañon Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.385.0880 $$$$ Map I11 THE STRAND HOUSE This beachside restaurant boasts awesome ocean and pier views and a breezy, stylish bar. New executive chef Austin Cobb’s menu highlights award-winning Coastal California Cuisine. L (Tu-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 117 Manhattan Beach Blvd., Manhattan Beach, 310.545.7470 $$$ Map L13 TAR & ROSES Chef Andrew Kirschner’s first restaurant focuses on small, rustic shareable plates cooked in his wood-burning oven, but with a week’s notice, he can also whip up large, lavish family-style suppers of Moroccan-spiced goat or standing rib rack. D (nightly). 602 Santa Monica Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.587.0700 $$$ Map L8 THE TASTING KITCHEN Foodies come for the daily changing menu of innovative yet unpretentious cuisine from culinary-darling chef Casey Lane: small or large plates of cured meats, artisan cheeses, vegetables, seafood and pastas. D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 1633 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 310.392.6644 $$$ Map M9 TAVERN James Beard Award-winning chef Suzanne Goin’s third L.A. restaurant explores rustic Cal-Med fare in chic environs, including a popular sunlit indoor patio. The frequently changing menu might include “devil’s chicken” with leeks and mustard breadcrumbs. The adjacent, more casual Larder offers divine housebaked pastries. B, L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 11648 San Vicente Blvd., L.A., 310.806.6464 $$$ Map J9 VIVIANE The menu at the Avalon Hotel Beverly Hills’ poolside restaurant features California takes on European and American dishes. 1950s-inspired seasonal cocktails complement the hotel’s midcentury-modern design by Kelly Wearstler. B, L (M-F); D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 9400 W. Olympic Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.407.7791 $$$ Map J11

CHINESE BAO DIM SUM Enjoy delicious, authentic dim sum in a relaxing, lantern-lit atmosphere. Favorites include juicy pork dumplings and shrimp shumai, followed by bao milk buns for dessert. L, D (daily). 8256 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 323.655.6556 $$ Map I12 DIN TAI FUNG At this popular and critically acclaimed dumpling house, founded in Taiwan, foodies line up for soup dumplings with filling combinations such as pork and crab or truffle and pork. Vegetable dishes like cucumber salad and sautéed string beans are also favorites. L, D (daily). 177 Caruso Ave., Glendale, 818.551.5561; 400 S. Baldwin Ave., Arcadia, 626.446.8588 $$ Map U23, R23 MR CHOW The L.A. County editions of scene-y restaurants in New York, London, Miami, Las Vegas and Mexico City offer Imperial Beijing cuisine. Beverly Hills: L (M-F), D (nightly). Malibu: D (nightly). 344 N. Camden Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.278.9911; Malibu Country Mart, 3835 Cross Creek Road, 18A, Malibu, 310.456.7600 $$$ Map I11, K7 ROC At this Little Osaka dumpling house, popular menu items include a scallion pancake, three-cup chicken and made-from-scratch soup dumplings stuffed with pork and fresh crab. L, D (daily). 2049 Sawtelle Blvd., L.A., 310.235.2089; 8474 W. 3rd St., Suite 108, L.A., 323.782.8808; 12775 Millennium Drive, Suite 110, L.A., 424.835.4777 $$ Map K10, I12, 010

COURTESY COMMERSON

Commerson’s charred wild-caught Spanish octopus (right)

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DINING

Bold, Exotic Flavors and 25% Off

YANG CHOW Fine Mandarin and Szechuan cuisine and an elegant atmosphere have made this restaurant a Chinatown mainstay since 1977. Don’t miss the worldfamous Slippery Shrimp, which have been featured on Food Network. Additional outposts are in the Valley and Pasadena. L, D (daily). 819 N. Broadway, downtown, 213.625.0811; 6443 Topanga Canyon Blvd., Canoga Park, 818.347.2610; 3777 E. Colorado Blvd., Pasadena, 626.432.6868 $$ Map G17, west of A1, Q22

ECLECTIC/FUSION BAROO Tucked in a homely Hollywood strip mall, this highly acclaimed restaurant from chef Kwang Uh, who was raised in Korea and staged at Noma in Copenhagen, is a celebration of experimentation and fermentation. The concise, oft-changing menu includes bibim salads, rice bowls and handmade pastas. L, D (Tu-Sa). 5706 Santa Monica Blvd., L.A., 323.819.4344 $$ Map H14

Grilled Filet Mignon & Teppanyaki Shrimp

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2O8 RODEO

2017-Q2-ROYS-Pasadena_Woodland_WHERE_AD_4.625x4.875_v2.indd 1

Beverly Hills Since 1991

CASSIA This bustling Southeast Asian-inspired brasserie, set inside a 1930s art deco building, finds chef Bryant Ng (Spice Table) serving dishes like Vietnamese pot au feu, black cod with anchovy broth and grilled pork-belly vermicelli. Sister concept Esters Wine Shop & Bar is adjacent. D (nightly). 1314 7th St., Santa Monica, 310.393.6699 $$$ Map L8

Roy’s Pasadena 641 East Colorado Blvd. Pasadena, CA 91101 TEL (626) 356-4066 Roy’s Woodland Hills 6363 Topanga Canyon Blvd. Woodland Hills, CA 91367 TEL (818) 888-4801

ORSA & WINSTON Chef/owner Josef Centeno draws on Japanese and Italian traditions at his acclaimed third restaurant. Select a vegetable, fish or meat grain bowl for lunch; for dinner, enjoy a daily changing six-course tasting menu with nightly supplements and an optional wine pairing. L (Tu-F), D (Tu-Sa). 122 W. 4th St., downtown, 213.687.0300 $$$$ Map I16

FRENCH

AVEC NOUS Contemporary French bistro where chef Olivier Quignon, previously at Bar Boulud in New York City, offers dishes inspired by the French Riviera, such as escargot; sea scallops with mushy broccoli, turmeric chermoula and squid-ink crisp; and whole oven-roasted cauliflower 5/5/17 11:13 AM vadouvan curry, served tableside. B, L, D (daily). Viceroy L’Ermitage Beverly Hills, 9291 Burton Way, Beverly Hills, 310.860.8660 $$$ Map J12

BREA K FA S T LUNCH

DI NNER

BOUCHON The Bouchon bistros from chef Thomas Keller (the French Laundry, Per Se) have become popular for their authentic good looks and superbly executed cuisine. L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 235 N. Cañon Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.271.9910 $$$ Map J11 CAFÉ PINOT This glass box of a restaurant adjacent to Central Library offers romantic outdoor dining, skyline views—from the bottom up—and contemporary Cal-French cuisine from the Patina Group. D (M-Sa). 700 W. 5th St., downtown, 213.239.6500 $$$ Map H16 KENDALL’S BRASSERIE AND BAR Located at the Music Center, Kendall’s is a convenient spot for before or after a performance. In addition to dishes with a contemporary flair, all the brasserie favorites are here (e.g., moules frites). The BoardRoom, a new Parisianinspired lounge with live music, is adjacent. L (M-F), D (Tu-Su), Br (Sa-Su). 135 N. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.972.7322 $$ Map H16 LE PETIT PARIS The L.A. iteration of David and Fanny Rolland’s original Le Petit Paris in Cannes is housed in the historic El Dorado building. By day, the brasserie is bright and tranquil, serving French classics such as steak frites and bourbon-vanilla crème brûlée, and at night it transforms into an upscale lounge, complete with a DJ. L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 418 S. Spring St., downtown, 213.217.4445 $$$ Map I17

208 N. Rodeo Drive - Beverly Hills - 90210 - 310 275 2428 www.208rodeo.com

THE LITTLE DOOR For a candlelit dinner in an elegant setting, this is the reservation ne plus ultra. Dine on rustic French-Mediterranean dishes under the stars or by a crackling fireplace. The restaurant’s casual extension, Little Next Door, serves modern

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DINING French brasserie fare. D (nightly). 8164 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.951.1210 $$$ Map I12

MATTEO’S An old favorite of the Rat Pack endures. Classic dishes include mussels in white wine and osso buco Milanese. D (Tu-Su). 2321 Westwood Blvd., L.A., 310.475.4521 $$ Map K10

MÉLISSE At Mélisse, among L.A.’s highest-rated restaurants, chef/owner Josiah Citrin executes a sophisticated, modern French menu filled with luxe ingredients. Start with lobster bolognese with truffles before superb game dishes. D (Tu-Sa). 1104 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.395.0881 $$$$ Map M8

OFFICINE BRERA From the team behind the Factory Kitchen, this stylish trattoria serves a daily changing, Northern Italy-inspired menu in a rustic-meets-contemporary space. The rice dishes, spit-roasted meats and handmade pastas are superb. L (M-F), D (nightly). 1331 E. 6th St., downtown, 213.553.8006 $$$ Map J17

PATINA The Walt Disney Concert Hall pairs classicalmusic offerings with fine dining, thanks to its fine inhouse restaurant. Game dishes are a frequent presence on the menu. D (Tu-Su). 141 S. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.972.3331 $$$$ Map H16

OSTERIA MOZZA Famed L.A.-based bread maker Nancy Silverton teamed up with affable Mario Batali on Mozza’s group of contemporary Italian restaurants. Osteria Mozza is a more sophisticated dining room in which to experience the repertoire of these great transcontinental talents. D (nightly). 6602 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.297.0100 $$$ Map H13

RÉPUBLIQUE In a landmark once occupied by Charlie Chaplin’s studio, fine-dining veteran Walter Manzke and pastry-chef wife Margarita turn out bistro classics (e.g., escargots, duck confit and steak frites) for a trendy clientele huddling at communal tables. Café B, L (daily); Br (Sa-Su). Bistro D (nightly). 624 S. La Brea Ave., L.A., 310.362.6115 $$$ Map I13 TROIS MEC The foodie trinity of Ludo Lefebvre, Vinny Dotolo and Jon Shook is behind this hot restaurant in a 26-seat former pizzeria. Diners must purchase advance tickets via the restaurant’s website to enjoy Lefebvre’s prix-fixe, five-course meal. D (M-F). 716 N. Highland Ave., L.A., troismec.com $$$$ Map H13

ITALIAN ALIMENTO Zach Pollack, who recently opened Cosa Buona in Echo Park, is behind this tiny, hip space, where a clever menu includes addictive chicken-liver crostone with quince mostarda, crudo and pastas. The tortellini in brodo features dumplings filled with a hot broth that explodes in your mouth. D (Tu-Su). 1710 Silver Lake Blvd., L.A., 323.928.2888 $$$ Map east of W23 BESTIA Multiregional Italian restaurant in the hip Arts District. The former executive chef at Angelini Osteria serves up such “beast”-focused dishes as roasted marrow bone with spinach gnocchetti, breadcrumbs and aged balsamic, and a selection of house-cured meats. D (nightly). 2121 E. 7th Place, downtown, 213.514.5724 $$$ Map east of J17 BOTTEGA LOUIE This palatial Italian restaurant, decked out in white marble, is a hip, noisy hall where young professionals convene over brick-oven-cooked pizzas. There’s a gourmet market and patisserie, too. B, L (M-F); D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 700 S. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.802.1470 $$ Map I16 CECCONI’S This London-based restaurant caters to well-heeled clients who schmooze over Bellinis and cicchetti (small plates). Pastas including a beautiful agnolotti del plin, and seafood such as grilled octopus are well-executed. Select regulars get a coveted key that comes with discounts and bragging rights. B, L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 8764 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 310.432.2000 $$$ Map I12 CULINA The Four Seasons’ acclaimed Italian restaurant boasts coastal influences and a sleek crudo bar. Adjacent is new Vinoteca, an Italian-inspired wine and espresso-bar concept. B, D (daily); L (M-Sa); Br (Su). Four Seasons Hotel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills, 300 S. Doheny Drive, L.A., 310.860.4000 $$$ Map J12 DRAGO CENTRO Chef Celestino Drago’s well-executed Italian fare and extensive wine list are presented in a contemporary and handsome space. L (M-F), D (nightly). 525 S. Flower St., downtown, 213.228.8998 $$$ Map H16

BARAN’S 2239 This South Bay restaurant from brothers Jonathan and Jason Baran serves up shareable dishes in an intimate space that belies its stripmall setting. Chef Tyler Gugliotta (the Tasting Kitchen) incorporates produce from his family’s farm into seasonal specialties with multicultural influences, including the bistro filet with cherry demi-glace, celeryroot latke and horseradish pictured above. After your entrée, opt for a dessert-and-local-beer pairing for a memorable finale. D (Tu-Su). 502 Pacific Coast Hwy., Hermosa Beach, 424.247.8468 $$ Map L13

THE FACTORY KITCHEN Former Valentino chef Angelo Auriana turns his attention to a casual, industrial-chic setting in the Arts District. Fresh-made pastas, beautiful cheeses and cured meats, complemented by an inventive cocktail program, contribute to a daily changing menu. L (M-F), D (nightly). 1300 Factory Place, downtown, 213.996.6000 $$$ Map J17 FELIX Chef Evan Funke’s trattoria, Felix, boasts an open kitchen, a wood-fired pizza oven, a Tuscan grill and a glass-enclosed, temperature-controlled pasta laboratorio where Funke’s masterpieces—pappardelle, tonnarelli, strascinati—take shape before diners’ eyes. D (nightly). 1023 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 424.387.8622, $$$ Map M9 JON & VINNY’S Family-friendly diner from chefs/ owners Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo has it all—pastries, pizza, pasta (made in-house) and meat entrées. Takeout and delivery are also available. B, L, D (daily). 412 N. Fairfax Ave., L.A., 323.334.3369 $$ Map B2 LA VECCHIA CUCINA Rustic Northern Italian in a laid-back bistro. More than a dozen pastas for dinner, plus pizzas, osso buco alla Romana and other traditional favorites. L, D (daily). 2654 Main St., Santa Monica, 310.399.7979 $$ Map M8 LOCANDA DEL LAGO Northern Italian restaurant featuring organic produce from Santa Monica farmers markets. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 231 Arizona Ave., Santa Monica, 310.451.3525 $$ Map L8

PIZZERIA MOZZA/MOZZA2GO The more relaxed sibling of Nancy Silverton and Mario Batali’s Osteria Mozza, Pizzeria Mozza features pizzas with Mediterranean ingredients, cheeses and salumi plates and rustic daily specials. Call ahead for delivery or takeout from Mozza2Go. L, D (daily). Pizzeria Mozza: 641 N. Highland Ave., L.A., 323.297.0101. Mozza2Go: 6610 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.297.1130 $$ Map H13 SOTTO This restaurant specializes in regionally inspired Italian cooking, including beautifully executed rustic trattoria dishes; soft, chewy Neapolitan pizzas cooked in an 8-ton wood-burning oven; and intriguing housemade pastas. D (nightly). 9575 W. Pico Blvd., L.A., 310.277.0210 $$$ Map J11 TERRONI Southern Italian cooking including excellent thin-crust pizza. Downtown: L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). L.A.: L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 802 S. Spring St., downtown, 213.221.7234; 7605 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 323.954.0300 $$ Map I16, J13 VALENTINO For more than 40 years, Piero Selvaggio has maintained his flagship’s status as a pre-eminent temple of Italian gastronomy. A telephone-book-sized wine list—often cited as America’s best—is supported by a cellar containing more than 100,000 bottles. L (F), D (Tu-Sa). 3115 Pico Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.829.4313 $$$$ Map L9

JAPANESE ISE-SHIMA Located in the Miyako Hybrid Hotel in Old Town Torrance, Ise-Shima provides fresh sushi and other exciting Japanese dishes, recalling the array of seafood and marine delicacies Japan’s Ise Shima region offers. The expansive restaurant consists of a sushi bar, lounge space, large communal table and terrace. B, L, D (daily). 21381 S. Western Ave., Torrance, 310.320.6700 $$ Map M14 KATANA Sunset Strip restaurant with sushi bar and robata-style cuisine: open-flame-grilled meat, vegetables, seafood on skewers. Stylish rooms, patio. Upscalecasual dress code. D (nightly). 8439 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 323.650.8585 $$$ Map H12 KATSUYA Sushi chef Katsuya Uechi turns out exotic delicacies in sultry spaces by designer Philippe Starck. L (varies by location), D (nightly). 11777 San Vicente Blvd., Brentwood, 310.207.8744; 6300 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.871.8777; 702 Americana Way, Glendale, 818.244.5900; L.A. Live, 800 W. Olympic Blvd., downtown, 323.525.2400 $$$ Map K9, H14, northeast of T23, I15 MATSUHISA Superchef Nobu Matsuhisa’s relatively modest original flagship incorporates luxurious Western ingredients and Latin American spices. Monkfish liver pâté with caviar, and lamb chops with miso anticucho sauce are just a couple of his creations. L (M-F), D (nightly). 129 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.659.9639 $$$$ Map I12

COURTESY WHITE OAK COMMUNICATIONS

PETIT TROIS Trois Mec’s French-bar-style spinoff offers an à la carte menu of classic dishes such as confit-fried chicken leg, croque monsieur and a delectable omelet with Boursin cheese. L, D (daily). 718 N. Highland Ave., L.A., 323.468.8916 $$$ Map H13

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DINING NOBU The flagship of chef Nobu Matsuhisa offers an extensive menu of traditional and avant-garde sushi, including many dishes with beguiling Peruvian accents. West Hollywood: D (nightly). Malibu: B (Sa-Su); L, D (daily). 903 N. La Cienega Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.657.5711; Nobu Malibu, 22706 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu, 310.317.9140 $$$$ Map H12, east of A1 Q SUSHI The omakase-only experience at this intimate sushi bar showcases the artistry and discipline of chef Hiroyuki Naruke in items like seared toro and monkfish as rich as foie gras. L (Tu-F), D (Tu-Sa). 521 W. 7th St., downtown, 213.225.6285 $$$$ Map I16 ROBATA BAR Japanese grilling from the Sushi Roku, Katana and BOA team. Striking design by Dodd Mitchell. D (nightly). 1401 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica, 310.458.4771 $$$ Map L8 ROKU Sunset Strip hot spot from the team behind Sushi Roku presents elevated teppanyaki prepared at interactive grill tables, as well as sushi, omakase offerings and an extensive selection of Japanese whiskeys. L (M-F), D (nightly). 9201 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.278.2060 $$$ Map H12 SUGARFISH Kazunori Nozawa—chef/owner of Studio City’s famed former Sushi Nozawa—opened these cheery, casual spots offering preset menus. Tips are included, but prices are still about half those at the original. L, D (daily). 4722 1/4 Admiralty Way, Marina del Rey, 310.306.6300; 11640 San Vicente Blvd., Brentwood, 310.820.4477; 600 W. 7th St., Suite 150, downtown, 213.627.3000; 1345 2nd St., Santa Monica, 310.393.3338; 4799 Commons Way, Calabasas, 818.223.9966; 212 N. Cañon Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.276.6900 (more locations at sugarfishsushi.com) $$ Map N9, K9, I16, L8, west of A1, J11

Ye Olde King’s Head

World Famous British Pub, Restaurant, Shoppe & Bakery

SUSHI ROKU Nouvelle Japanese, sleek decor and a creative menu. L, D (daily). 1401 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica, 310.458.4771; 33 Miller Alley, Pasadena, 626.683.3000 $$$ Map L8, Q19

MEDITERRANEAN A.O.C. Mediterranean-inspired pioneer of two L.A. culinary trends—the small-plates format and the wine bar— from James Beard Award-winning chef/owner Suzanne Goin. L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 8700 W. 3rd St., L.A., 310.859.9859 $$ Map I12 THE BELVEDERE The Peninsula Beverly Hills’ elegant restaurant has a modernized interior, a lovely terrace and a Mediterranean menu from executive chef David Codney. The Champagne brunch is a don’t-miss. B, D (daily); L (M-Sa); Br (Su). 9882 S. Santa Monica Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.788.2306 $$$$ Map J11 BOWERY BUNGALOW Restaurateur George AbouDaoud honors his Middle Eastern heritage at this Silver Lake restaurant by applying Silk Road flavors to all-American concepts like Southern baby-back ribs. D (Tu-Su), Br (Sa-Su). 4156 Santa Monica Blvd., L.A., 323.663.1500 $$ Map south of W23

British Fare, imported beers and world famous Fish & Chips. Heated patio. Call for soccer schedule. Stop by the gift shoppe for food and collectibles from the British Isles, including bone china, teapots, souvenir items, tea, candy, wine, freshly baked goods and much more. Open daily for breakfast, lunch & dinner Weekdays 9 am | Weekends 8 am Happy Hour Afternoon Tea Karaoke Trivia Live Soccer

M-F 4-7 pm Mon-Sat 11:30 am-4 pm Su 9 pm Every Wed 8 pm Check Schedule

116 Santa Monica Blvd. Santa Monica (310) 451-1402 www.yeoldekingshead.com

CROSSROADS KITCHEN Chef/partner Tal Ronnen creates exclusively plant-based dishes, many based on nonvegan comfort-food classics. L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 8284 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 323.782.9245 $$$ Map H12 ESTÉREL The restaurant at the Sofitel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills features a French garden, Le Jardin, which offers alfresco seating, as well as an indoor private-party area called the Aviary, an open-plan main dining room, two private dining rooms and the adjacent Riviera 31 lounge. B, D (daily); L (M-F); Br (Sa-Su). 8555 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 310.358.3979 $$$ Map I12 GJELINA Under the direction of talented young chef Travis Lett, Cal-Med small plates and pizzas are served to chic Westsiders. It’s one of Venice’s most popular

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DINING

PAN-ASIAN

Pizza at Felix (p. 58)

restaurants and the neighborhood’s liveliest patio. B, L (M-F); D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 1429 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 310.450.1429 $$ Map N9 LUCQUES Chef/owner Suzanne Goin (A.O.C.) delivers the next generation of Cal-Med cuisine, which includes dishes such as grilled salmon wrapped in grape leaves and served with green rice, feta, labneh and caper salsa. L (Tu-Sa), D (nightly). 8474 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 323.655.6277 $$$ Map I13 MIRO Executive chef Gavin Mills (Tavern) oversees a pan-Mediterranean menu of shareable dishes such as wood-fired pizzas, charcuterie and pasta at this stylish Financial District restaurant. A glamorous, intimate whiskey lounge is downstairs. L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 888 Wilshire Blvd., downtown, 213.988.8880 $$$ Map I16

MEXICAN/LATIN BROKEN SPANISH The upscale sister of B.S. Taqueria, this “modern Mexican” restaurant near L.A. Live serves classically trained chef Ray Garcia’s innovative twists on traditional dishes. D (nightly). 1050 S. Flower St., Suite 102, downtown, 213.749.1460 $$$ Map I15 B.S. TAQUERIA The colorful setting at this Ray Garcia-helmed spot—a casual sibling of Broken Spanish, above—offers the right vibe for lemon-pepper chicken chicharrones or clam-and-lardo tacos. A B.S. Taqueria concession stand serves tacos and churros at Staples Center. L (M-F), D (nightly). 514 W. 7th St., downtown, 213.622.3744 $$ Map H15 DÍA DE CAMPO Part of Blackhouse Hospitality (Little Sister, Abigaile, Steak & Whisky), this restaurant offers innovative Mexican dishes such as chocolate-duck quesadillas, chorizo-stuffed dates and wood-grilled lobster with chili butter in a sexy surf-lodge setting. L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 1238 Hermosa Ave., Hermosa Beach, 310.379.1829 $$ Map L13 GRACIAS MADRE Organic, plant-based Mexican fare is served at this beautiful restaurant (the patio’s ambiance can’t be beat) from the team behind Café Gratitude. Inventive dishes like coconut-ceviche tostadas and flautas de papas please vegans and omnivores alike. L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 8905 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 323.978.2170 $$ Map I12

more than 30 years ago, is behind this chain of contemporary Hawaiian-inspired restaurants with stylish tropical decor. D (nightly). 6363 Topanga Canyon Blvd., Woodland Hills, 818.888.4801; 641 E. Colorado Blvd., Pasadena, 626.356.4066 $$$ Map I16, west of A1, Q21

LITTLE SISTER At these trendy spots from young chef Tin Vuong, sophisticated accents are added to panAsian cuisine, as evidenced in signatures like deep-fried Balinese meatballs with banana ketchup, Myanmar okra curry and salt-and-pepper lobster. M.B.: L (F-Su), D (nightly). Downtown: B, L, D (daily). 1131 Manhattan Ave., Manhattan Beach, 310.545.2096; 523 W. 7th St., downtown, 213.628.3146 $$ Map L13, I16

SON OF A GUN Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo, the meat-loving chefs at Animal, turn to the sea for new inspiration. They cook up small shareable plates, such as miniature lobster rolls and shrimp-toast sandwiches, in a nautically themed space. L, D (daily). 8370 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.782.9033 $$$ Map I12

LUKSHON Sang Yoon of Father’s Office is behind this Southeast Asian eatery with a selection of craft beers and a Far East-inspired cocktail program. The crispy whole market fish is not to be missed. L (Tu-F), D (Tu-Sa). 3239 Helms Ave., Culver City, 310.202.6808 $$$ Map K12

THE BAZAAR BY JOSÉ ANDRÉS Star chef José Andrés brings a whimsical Spanish-style dining experience to the SLS Hotel. Cuisine ranges from rustic fare to the cutting-edge creations that have made Spain a culinary leader. D (nightly). 465 S. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.246.5555 $$$ Map H16

WP24 From its 24th-floor roost, WP24 proves that Wolfgang Puck, who pioneered Asian fusion, has still got the goods. Highlights include XO seafood dumplings and steamed bao filled with pork belly. Restaurant/lounge concept Nest at WP24 is adjacent. Dining room D (Tu-Sa). Nest D (nightly). The Ritz-Carlton, Los Angeles, 900 W. Olympic Blvd., downtown, 213.743.8824 $$$$ Map I15

SEAFOOD BLUE PLATE OYSTERETTE Putting a “California twist on East Hampton summer lobster bakes,” this narrow restaurant near the Santa Monica Pier specializes in dishes such as oysters on the half shell, New England clam chowder and lobster rolls. Sit outside to take in Pacific views. L, D (daily). 355 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica, 310.576.3474 $$$ Map L8 CAFE DEL REY Ogle impressive pleasure boats in the marina at this waterfront restaurant with plentiful fresh catch, a raw bar and prime cuts of steak. Stop in for its great nightly happy hour, too. L (M–F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 4451 Admiralty Way, Marina del Rey, 310.823.6395 $$$ Map N9 DUKE’S MALIBU Named after the father of international surfing, Duke Kahanamoku, this oceanfront restaurant captures the spirit of aloha. Not to be outshone by the spectacular views is the cuisine, which features a daily selection of fresh fish and tropical cocktails. L (M-Sa); D (nightly); Br (Su). 21150 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu, 310.317.0777 $$ Map west of K7 ENTERPRISE FISH CO. Established in 1979, this restaurant is a local favorite when it comes to seafood. Wild-caught fish, fresh seafood and steaks are cooked over a mesquite charcoal grill in an exhibition kitchen set in the middle of the dining room. L, D (daily). 174 Kinney St., Santa Monica, 310.392.8366 $$$ Map M9 FISHING WITH DYNAMITE Chef David LeFevre (the Arthur J, M.B. Post) loads his menu with East Coast inspirations. Among the old-school small plates in this tiny, charming restaurant are New England-style clam chowder with Nueske’s bacon and Maryland blue-crab cakes with house-made pickles and remoulade. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 1148 Manhattan Ave., Manhattan Beach, 310.893.6299 $$$ Map L13

RED O Rick Bayless, one of America’s leading authorities on Mexican cuisine, is culinary director of these sexy eateries, where creative dishes are grounded in tradition. WeHo: D (nightly). Santa Monica: L (Sa-Su), D (nightly). 8155 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 323.655.5009; 1541 Ocean Ave., Suite 120, Santa Monica, 310.458.1600 $$$ Map I12, L8

PROVIDENCE Michael Cimarusti transforms sustainable seafood into oft-changing dishes at this refined restaurant, which the Los Angeles Times rates as the best in the city. Outstanding cocktails complement Michelinrecognized cuisine. L (F), D (nightly). 5955 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.460.4170 $$$$ Map I14

SALAZAR This trendy taco destination—a colorful desert oasis set in a reworked Frogtown auto-body

ROY’S James Beard Award-winning chef Roy Yamaguchi, who pioneered innovative Pacific Rim cuisine in L.A.

SPANISH

STEAK ALEXANDER’S STEAKHOUSE This ultraluxurious interpretation of the classic American steakhouse incorporates Asian influences. Certified Angus beef and domestic and imported wagyu star on the menu. New Bull & Barrel bar concept offers the menu and a whiskey-forward cocktail menu. D (nightly). 111 N. Los Robles Ave., Pasadena, 626.486.1111 $$$ Map Q20 THE ARTHUR J This Manhattan Beach steakhouse by chef David LeFevre (M.B. Post, Fishing With Dynamite) offers a classic menu that will delight any carnivore, but the seafood dishes and sides-with-a-twist are excellent as well. D (nightly). 903 Manhattan Ave., Manhattan Beach, 310.878.9620 $$$$ Map C2 BALTAIRE Helmed by executive chef Travis Strickland, this sophisticated Brentwood restaurant offers prime steaks, wines by the glass, old-school charm and sun-orstars dining on its 2,500-square-foot terrace. L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 11647 San Vicente Blvd., L.A., 424.273.1660 $$$$ Map J12 BOA STEAKHOUSE Way hip, way fine steakhouse. Steak rubs and dips; out-there cocktails on a recently revamped bar menu. New globally inspired burgers (e.g., tuna and ramen) are highlights on the lunch menu. Santa Monica: L, D (daily). West Hollywood: L (M-F), D (nightly). 101 Santa Monica Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.899.4466; 9200 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.278.2050 $$$ Map M8, H12 CUT A collaboration between Getty Center architect Richard Meier and Wolfgang Puck, Cut is the place to savor genuine wagyu beef steaks or dry-aged Nebraska beef. D (M-Sa). Beverly Wilshire Hotel, 9500 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.276.8500 $$$ Map J11 FOGO DE CHÃO Brazilian steakhouse-barbecue restaurants where guests are treated to an endless procession of meats carved right onto their plates. L (Su-F), D (nightly). 133 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.289.7755; 800 S. Figueroa St., downtown, 213.228.4300 $$$ Map J12, I16 THE GRILL ON THE ALLEY The Grill is a venerable industry hangout, where polished waiters deliver steaks, Cobb salads and other old-school fare. Beverly Hills: L (M-Sa), D (nightly). Westlake Village: L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 9560 Dayton Way, Beverly Hills, 310.276.0615; 120 E. Promenade Way, Westlake Village, 805.418.1760 $$$ Map I11, west of A1 MASTRO’S OCEAN CLUB At this on-the-waterfront eatery—the views are pure Malibu—starters like ahi tartare and caviar are followed by fresh fish, whole Maine lobster and expertly prepared steaks. D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 18412 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu, 310.454.4357 $$$$ Map west of K7

ALAN GASTELUM

shop—specializes in outdoor dining, grilled meats and fun drinks. Pair tasty tacos with aguas frescas and cocktails. L, D (T-Su); Br (Sa-Su). 2490 Fletcher Drive, L.A., salazarla.com $$ Map southeast of W23

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DINING MASTRO’S STEAKHOUSE Swanky “steakhouse with personality.” Bone-in filet reigns; warm butter cake melts in your mouth. Penthouse at Mastro’s is an upstairs lounge. D (nightly). 246 N. Cañon Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.888.8782 $$$ Map J11

8315 WEST 3RD STREET LOS ANGELES 90048 323.424.4807 WWW.PYRRHA.COM

See Los Angeles. Sip Differently. MARINA DEL REY. NEWPORT BEACH. LONG BEACH.

MORTON’S Clubby ambiance, show-and-tell menu, huge portions. Beverly Hills, Woodland Hills: D (nightly). Downtown, Burbank: L (M-F), D (nightly). 435 S. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.246.1501; 6250 Canoga Ave., Woodland Hills, 818.703.7272; 735 S. Figueroa St., downtown, 213.553.4566; The Pinnacle, 3400 W. Olive Ave., Burbank, 818.238.0424 $$$ Map I11, west of A1, I16, T20 MUSSO & FRANK GRILL Hollywood’s oldest restaurant (1919). Enjoy flannel cakes, lobster Thermidor and Welsh rarebit with the martini; legend has it that this place invented the drink. B, L (Tu-Sa); D (Tu-Su). 6667 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.467.7788 $$ Map H13 NICK + STEF’S Bunker Hill institution Nick + Stef’s is a midcentury-modern vision whose menu includes showstopping meat dishes, as well as an expanded seafood menu. USDA Prime beef is aged on-site in a glassencased aging chamber. L (M-F), D (nightly). Wells Fargo Building, 330 S. Hope St., downtown, 213.680.0330 $$$ Map H16 THE STINKING ROSE True to its motto, “We season our garlic with food,” this Restaurant Row mainstay offers eclectic, garlicky menu options and premium steaks. Pianist Gary Sherer performs Th-Sa evenings in the Gar Bar. L, D (daily). 55 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.652.7673 $$ Map I12 STK The One Group’s renowned steakhouse has a sleek and sultry new L.A. home inside the W hotel in Westwood. Expect signature steaks, shellfish platters and jalapeño-cheddar grits, as well as new dishes such as seared foie gras with spiced rum, and crispy lobster tails. D (nightly). W Los Angeles—West Beverly Hills, 930 Hilgard Ave., L.A., 310.659.3535 $$$ Map J10

THAI Join us for a midweek escape on a Sunset Cocktail Cruise. Enjoy cozy indoor seating or outdoor decks open to the summer sky. Departing from Marina del Rey and Newport Beach Wednesdays and Thursdays through October and Long Beach through August. Boarding starts at 5:30pm. $5 off promo code WHR5D with exp. 11/30/17 Hornblower.com | 855-559-3571 FOLLOW US NEWPORT BEACH MARINA DEL REY LONG BEACH SAN DIEGO SAN FRANCISCO NEW YORK

NATALE E T H A I

C U I S I N E

“Readers’ Choice Award 2011-2012” ~LA Times “Best of The West Side 2013-2015” ~The Argonaut

Venice (310) 202-7003 10101 Venice Blvd. Full Bar | Sushi Bar Beverly Hills (310) 855-9380 998 S. Robertson Blvd. Full Bar | Valet Parking

Dine In | Delivery Take Out | Order Online

nataleethai.com

JITLADA THAI The wait for a table is long at this top-rated restaurant in East Hollywood’s Thai Town, but the southern Thai specialties, such as moo mae chan (grilled pork southern-style with papaya salad and sticky rice), are authentic and exceptional. L, D (Tu-Su). 5233 1/2 Sunset Blvd., L.A., 323.667.9809 $$ Map W22 NATALEE THAI Traditional Thai dishes are served amid edgy, modern decor. Popular entrées include Nutty Chicken (a spicy combo of chicken, onion and dried chilies) and a sole filet in red curry sauce. Veggie lovers favor the spicy maha jumlong curry. L, D (daily). 10101 Venice Blvd., Culver City, 310.202.7003; 998 S. Robertson Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.855.9380 $ Map L11, I11 NIGHT + MARKET For authentic Thai food, head to either the WeHo or Silver Lake location (the latter is Night + Market Song) of this hip spot from L.A.-born chef Kris Yenbamroong, who was named one of 2016’s best new chefs by Food & Wine. Celebrity diners include Gwyneth Paltrow and Lena Dunham. WeHo: L (Tu-Th), D (Tu-Su). Silver Lake: L (M-F), D (M-Sa). 9043 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.275.9724; 3322 W. Sunset Blvd., L.A., 323.665.5899 $$ Map I12, south of W23

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MENU HIGHLIGHTS Shared Plates Grilled Octopus Braised pork belly Scallop Crudo Lamb Kefta Duck Confit Portobello Tart

ESTÉREL RESTAURANT Welcome to the South of France! Located in the Sofitel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills, the beautiful Provence-inspired Estérel Restaurant boasts a range of dining settings in which to enjoy Executive Chef Pete Manfredini’s seasonally driven cuisine. Taking inspiration in the traditional French Gastronomy as well as his Italian background, he takes classics and revisit them with the modernism and boldness of the unique California touch, focusing on organic and local grown ingredients. In the openplan main dining room, high-backed booths and deep blue walls create a sophisticated atmosphere, and an exhibition kitchen with a woodburning oven provides a show. Guests can sip an fresh aperitif outdoor in Le Jardin at Estérel, a Provençal garden patio with colorful seating ideal for alfresco afternoon and evening dining. The Aviary, private part of the patio, is ideal for intimate cocktail parties or sit-down dinners for 20 to 50 guests, along with two private dining rooms. And continue the night at Riviera 31, Sofitel Los Angeles’ famous bar lounge, for exclusive mixology cocktails and daily live performances! B,L,D (daily); Br (Su).

Plates Endive and Apple Salad Duck Confit Pizza Seafood Risotto Spiced Crust Tuna Spring Lamb Rack Le Jardin Burger

Sofitel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills, 8555 Beverly Blvd., L.A.

310.358.3979 esterelrestaurant.com

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MENU HIGHLIGHTS Starters Pan-roasted bone marrow Baked Blue Point oysters Rockefeller Blue fin tuna tartare Side Dishes Crispy Brussels sprout Heirloom fingerling gratin Vermont white mac and cheese

L.A. PRIME Located on the 35th floor of the Westin Bonaventure Hotel and Suites, the award-winning L.A. Prime invites diners to experience a culinary adventure in a relaxed atmosphere with refined service. Known for its innovative and edgy cuisine, L.A. Prime offers Chicago stockyards wetaged prime beef steaks, as well as beautiful fresh seasonal fish and shellfish. Dishes are enhanced with local produce and paired with wines from an award-winning list recognized by Wine Spectator. Our awardwinning culinary team of chefs have created a masterful menu of artfully presented dishes made with fresh ingredients to please the palate. Stars wink through floor-to-ceiling windows as diners sit back, relax and enjoy all that downtown has to offer. D (nightly).

Steaks Bone-in Delmonico rib-eye 22 oz Primal-cut New York strip 14 oz Bone-in filet mignon 14 oz Composed Entrees 3-pound Maine lobster Double-thick-cut Niman Ranch pork chop Grilled free-range Colorado lamb chops Seared Mano de Leon jumbo scallop Pan-roasted wild king salmon Chilean sea bass SautĂŠed shrimp scampi King oyster mushroom

404 S. Figueroa St., downtown

213.624.1000

FRESH SEAFOOD AND PRIME STEAKS

thebonaventure.com

FRESH SEAFOOD AND PRIME STEAKS

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LADINING MATTEO’S RESTAURANT Frequented in its early days by celebs including Frank Sinatra and the rest of the Rat Pack, Matteo’s Restaurant has redefined its look and cuisine while maintaining its status as the epitome of classic cool. Now in its 50th year, Matteo’s continues to offer unique seasonal fare in a homey and hip setting. Executive chef Antonio Orlando’s menu features sumptuous, cosmopolitan Italian fare like veal tartufato, lamb and weekly game specials. Happy hour specials Tuesday through Friday and on Sunday include half-off drinks and a $7-and-under bar menu. Gluten-free and vegetarian options also available. For lunch, visit adjacent cafe Hoboken, open weekdays. D (Tu-Su).

2321 Westwood Blvd., L.A. 310.475.4521 • matteosla.com

LOCANDA DEL LAGO Locanda del Lago blends organic produce from the Santa Monica Farmers Market and many other local purveyors with Italian ingredients to create dishes from Northern Italy’s Lombardy region. This family-run restaurant attracts celebrities, foodies, locals and travelers with its authentic and traditional recipes. Dishes feature high-quality meats and pastas such as all-natural Niman Ranch veal shank, salt baked wild sea bass, housemade ravioli and home-made buckwheat pappardelle. A full vegetarian menu is also available. Enjoy the breads, desserts and gelato, made in-house daily. The warm interior and sidewalk patio overlooking the bustling Third Street Promenade also offers a daily happy hour that features specialty cocktails and local and Italian wines. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 231 Arizona Ave., Santa Monica 310.451.3525 • lagosantamonica.com

JIMMY’S FAMOUS AMERICAN TAVERN The JFAT family of restaurants is known for its artisanal approach to popular dishes from around the country. Certified green by the Green Restaurants Association, Jimmy’s strives to use locally raised, organic and sustainable ingredients and has partnered with the Long Beach Aquarium-based “Seafood for the Future” program. Enjoy brews, cocktails and wines at the bar before indulging in menu highlights such as buttermilk fried chicken with thyme gravy or spicy tequila shrimp pasta with green chili pesto cream, charred corn and pepitas inside or on the covered patio. Jimmy’s also offers a weekday happy hour and weekend Champagne brunch. The new Santa Monica location is located just a few blocks from the pier. L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 1733 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica 424.292.5222 • j-fat.com

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

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THE GUIDE SPECIAL EVENTS RED BULL MUSIC ACADEMY FESTIVAL Oct. 6-29 Making its West Coast debut, this monthlong festival fills L.A. with performances, conversations with creative trailblazers, concerts and club nights. Highlights include a Technicolor new direction from singer-songwriter St. Vincent and Flying Lotus’ latest 3-D show, co-headlined by bass virtuoso Thundercat. Check website for full list of shows and venues. redbullmusicacademy.com MID-AUTUMN MOON FESTIVAL Oct. 7 Celebrate the full harvest moon at this Chinatown festival, which offers traditional Chinese cultural demonstrations, local bands and DJs, a dessert-eating competition and moon viewings through telescopes. 5-11 pm. Free. Central Plaza, 943 N. Broadway, downtown, 213.680.0243, chinatownla. com Map G17 STREET FOOD CINEMA Oct. 7, 14, 21, 28 Outdoor film series hosts screenings every Saturday night at locations across L.A. Enjoy live music and food from the city’s top trucks. Highlights this month include Batman, The Nightmare Before Christmas and The Silence of the Lambs. See the website for a full schedule. Doors 5:30 pm; band 6:30 pm; movie 8 pm. $6-$21, under 6 free. 323.254.5068, streetfoodcinema.com CINESPIA Oct. 7, 21, 28 The popular Amazon Studiossponsored film series extends its season at Hollywood Forever Cemetery with screenings of Ghostbusters and Night of the Living Dead. Cinespia also kicks off its downtown L.A. series with a screening of David Bowie’s Labyrinth, followed by a costume ball, Oct. 28 at Los Angeles Theatre (615 S. Broadway, downtown). See website for start times. $16-$85. 6000 Santa Monica Blvd., L.A., 877.435.9849, cinespia.org Map H14

CICLAVIA—HEART OF L.A. Oct. 8 Six miles of L.A.’s normally congested streets turn into a car-free park for a walk and bike tour through Chinatown, DTLA, Echo Park and Boyle Heights during this beloved openstreets event. See website for route details. 9 am-4 pm. Free. 213.355.8500, ciclavia.org VEUVE CLICQUOT POLO CLASSIC, LOS ANGELES Oct. 14 Picnic, sip Champagne and see professional polo led by world-renowned polo player Nacho Figueras at the eighth L.A. edition of this sporting event. Event is 21+. 11 am-5 pm; match starts at 2 pm. $75-$400. Ticket purchase includes shuttle transportation between dedicated lot and event grounds. All tickets must be purchased through Eventbrite. Will Rogers State Historic Park, 1501 Will Rogers State Park Road, Pacific Palisades, vcpoloclassic.com Map J8

COURTESY THE DAVID LYNCH FOUNDATION

SPA WEEK Oct. 16-23 Biannual event sees some of L.A.’s top spas offering signature treatments for just $50. See website for a full roster of participating spas and treatments. 212.352.8098, spaweek.com BURBANK BEER FESTIVAL & STREET FAIR Oct. 21 This third annual fest takes over the streets of downtown Burbank to celebrate craft beer. Expect more than 85 craft beers on tap, musical performances, vendors and more. A complimentary shuttle will ferry festivalgoers to and from Burbank hotels. Street fair: noon-7 pm, all ages, free. Craft-beer tasting sessions: noon and 4 pm, 21+, $40-$45. San Fernando Boulevard, between Magnolia Boulevard and Angeleno Avenue, Burbank, burbankbeerfestival.com Map north of T21 BEVERLY HILLS ARTSHOW Oct. 21-22 This long-running outdoor art showcase displays artwork from about 240 exhibitors twice a year. Wine and beer gardens and food trucks are also on-site. 10 am-5 pm. Free. Beverly Gardens Park, along Santa Monica Boulevard from Rodeo to Rexford drives, Beverly Hills, 310.285.6830, beverlyhills.org Map J11

/ ENTERTAINMENT

GUIDELINES Map locators at the end of each listing (Map A3; Map H10, etc.) refer to maps in the back of this issue. Compendium includes editors’ recommendations and advertisers.

INDEX Special Events.............. 65 Studio Tapings.............. 68 Theater......................... 65 Museums...................... 70 Music + Dance.............. 66 Shopping Destinations... 72 Sports........................... 66 Nightlife........................ 72 Attractions.................... 66 Tours + Transport........ 73 Studio Tours................. 68

BREWERY ARTWALK Oct. 21-22 This biannual art walk takes place in the world’s largest art complex, located in a former Pabst Blue Ribbon brewery. More than 100 resident artists who live in the brewery’s lofts open up their studios to showcase their work. 11 am-6 pm. Free. 2100 N. Main St., L.A., 323.638.9382, breweryartwalk.com Map east of G17 EASTSIDE FOOD FESTIVAL Oct. 22 Now in its fourth year, this annual celebration of the vibrant food and dining cultures within L.A.’s Eastside communities will feature unlimited tastings from over 35 local food and beverage vendors—including FrankieLucy Bakeshop, Sweetfin Poke and Mh Zh—as well as cooking demonstrations, discussion panels, live music and a VIP area with perks and prizes. Event is 21+. 4-7 pm; advance VIP hour 3-4 pm. $50-$105. Mack Sennett Studios, 1215 Bates Ave., L.A., eastsidefoodfest.com Map south of W23 LIT CRAWL L.A. Oct. 25 Fifth annual walkable event for book lovers finds 36-plus restaurants, bars, galleries and theaters in North Hollywood playing host to over 40 literary happenings. Dine, explore the area and stroll while enjoying readings and performances. The night comprises three 45-minute rounds. Check website for schedule. Free. NoHo Arts District, anchored by Lankershim and Magnolia boulevards, North Hollywood, litcrawlla.org Map T19 OKTOBERFEST Through Oct. 28 You’ll find L.A.’s oldest (since 1968) and largest Oktoberfest at Torrance’s Alpine Village. The German marketplace provides traditional Bavarian fun including oompah bands, dancing, traditional food and beers brewed by Warsteiner. F-Sa 21+, Su all ages. F 6 pm-midnight; Sa 5 pm-midnight; Su 1-6 pm. $10$75; designated-driver tickets $5-$20; under 13 free. 833 W. Torrance Blvd., Torrance, 310.327.4384, alpinevillagecenter.com Map M15

THEATER BIG NIGHT Through Oct. 8 Master satirist Paul Rudnick’s new play—having its world premiere at the Douglas—explores family and fame by following the night of an Oscar nominee. Kirk Douglas Theatre, 9820 Washington Blvd., Culver City, 213.628.2772 Map L11 BRIGHT STAR Opening Oct. 11 The Broadway musical written and composed by Steve Martin and Edie Brickell follows a literary editor who finds a connection with a young soldier coming home from World War II—awakening her longing for the child she once lost. Ahmanson Theatre, 135 N. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.628.2772 Map H16 TURN ME LOOSE Opening Oct. 13 This play about late comic genius Dick Gregory, presented in association with John Legend, sees Scandal’s Joe Morton portraying the stand-up comic and civil-rights activist. Wallis Annenberg Center for the Performing Arts, 9390 N. Santa Monica Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.746.4000 Map I11

Disruptive Influence Most film buffs would love to enter the mind of cult filmmaker David Lynch (pictured above). During the director’s Festival of Disruption, returning to the Theatre at Ace Hotel from Oct. 14-15, they can. The music, art and film festival’s super-hip, Lynch-curated lineup includes Bon Iver, the Kills, TV on the Radio, Reggie Watts and Mulholland Drive songstress Rebekah Del Rio, plus DJs Moby and Shepard Fairey. Also on the bill are talks with Lynch himself, Ed Ruscha, Bill Pullman and Twin Peaks collaborators; screenings of Lost Highway and rare Lynch shorts; meditation experiences; and an exhibit of William Eggleston’s photography. Proceeds benefit the David Lynch Foundation, which is dedicated to eradicating trauma and toxic stress through transcendental meditation. p. 66

W Welton Becket, the Music Center’s architect, also designed such L.A. landmarks as Hollywood’s Capitol Records Building and Cinerama Dome. WHERE LOS ANGELES 65

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Rose bowl STadium Oct. 6 Coldplay: A Head Full of Dreams Tour with special guests Tove Lo and Alina Baraz. 1001 Rose Bowl Drive, Pasadena, 626.577.3100 Map P18

American Contemporary Ballet

Head of passes Through Oct. 22 This moving new drama—a contemporary parable inspired by the Book of Job—from playwright Tarell Alvin McCraney stars Tony winner Phylicia Rashad. Mark Taper Forum, 135 N. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.628.2772 Map H16 Hamilton All month The national tour of the Broadway hit brings its brilliant raps about Founding Father Alexander Hamilton (played by Michael Luwoye) to the Pantages stage. Hollywood Pantages Theatre, 6233 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.468.1770 Map H13

Music + DANCE american contemporary ballet Oct. 13-14, 19-21, 26-28 ACB, Inferno, artistic director Lincoln Jones, composer Charles Wuorinen. 700 S. Flower St., Suite 3200, downtown, 213.304.3408 Map I16 Dorothy Chandler Pavilion Oct. 1 L.A. Opera, Carmen, conductor James Conlon, starring Ana María Martínez. In French with projected English translations. Oct. 7, 15, 19, 22, 25, 28 L.A. Opera, The Pearl Fishers, conductors Plácido Domingo (Oct. 7-22) and Grant Gershon (Oct. 25-28), starring Nino Machaidze. In French with projected English translations. Oct. 14 L.A. Opera, Nabucco, conductor James Conlon, starring Plácido Domingo. 135 N. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.972.7211 Map H16 Ford Theatres Oct. 1 Angel City Jazz Festival— Monk Centennial Edition. Oct. 7 Broadway Under the Stars. Oct. 8 La Sorgente: Arias Inspired by the Poetry of Pope John Paul II. Oct. 11 The Hubble Cantata, in association with the L.A. Opera. Oct. 14 Bang on a Can AllStars: Road Trip. Oct. 16 Jam Session: Drum Circle. 2580 Cahuenga Blvd. E., Hollywood, 323.461.3673 Map G14 The forum Oct. 5 Gorillaz with special guest Vince Staples. Oct. 6 Go Fest, featuring Jason Aldean and special guests. Oct. 7 Scorpions. Oct. 8 Marc Anthony. Oct. 13-14 Marco Antonio Solis. Oct. 20 Arcade Fire with special guest Angel Olsen. Oct. 27 Enrique Iglesias and Pitbull. Oct. 28 Joel Osteen. 3900 W. Manchester Blvd., Inglewood, 310.330.7300 Map O12 Greek theatre Oct. 5 The War on Drugs. Oct. 6 Sturgill Simpson. Oct. 13 Father John Misty. Oct. 14 Galantis. Oct. 15 Evanescence: Synthesis Live With Orchestra. Oct. 17 An Evening With Alison Krauss and David Gray. 2700 N. Vermont Ave., Griffith Park, L.A., 323.665.5857 Map V22 hollywood bowl Oct. 1 Imagine Dragons; Grouplove; K.Flay. Oct. 3-4 Chance the Rapper. Oct. 5 Ms. Lauryn Hill & Nas; Chronixx. Oct. 6 Maxwell; Raphael Saadiq; Jazmine Sullivan. Oct. 7 Kings of Leon; Dawes. Oct. 8 Janet Jackson. Oct. 9 Jane at the Hollywood Bowl with Live Orchestra. Oct. 11 The National; Local Natives; Daughter. Oct. 12, 14, 16, 18 Depeche Mode: Global Spirit Tour. Oct. 21 CBS Radio—We Can Survive, featuring

the theatre at ace hotel Oct. 3-5 Werk It: A Women’s Podcast Festival. Oct. 3 WNYC Studios and KCRW present: BuzzFeed’s Another Round. Oct. 4 WNYC Studios and KCRW present: Death, Sex & Money. Oct. 5 WNYC Studios and KPCC In Person present: 2 Dope Queens. Oct. 8 CAP UCLA presents: An Evening With Matt Groening & Lynda Barry. Oct. 10 Pancho Villa From a Safe Distance. Oct. 12 First Aid Kit. Oct. 14-15 David Lynch’s Festival of Disruption, featuring Bon Iver, The Kills, TV on the Radio, Sharon Van Etten, Laura Marling, Reggie Watts, DJs Moby and Shepard Fairey and more. Oct. 18 Up and Vanished Live. Oct. 19 Carla Morrison. Oct. 20 Real Estate. Oct. 21 Pop-Up Magazine. Oct. 23-24 Tegan and Sara’s The Con X: Tour. Oct. 28 La Belle et la Bête (with a new soundtrack by Philip Glass) + Halloween Party; A Beastly Ball. Oct. 29, 31 La Belle et la Bête. 929 S. Broadway, downtown, 213.623.3233 Map I16 WALT DISNEY CONCERT HALL Oct. 1 Mozart 1791: Final Piano Concerto, featuring Los Angeles Philharmonic, conductor Gustavo Dudamel, Los Angeles Master Chorale. Oct. 3 Mozart 1791 With Martin Fröst, featuring L.A. Philharmonic, clarinetist Martin Fröst. Oct. 5-8 Mozart 1791: Scenes From The Magic Flute, featuring L.A. Philharmonic, conductor Gustavo Dudamel, clarinetist Martin Fröst. Oct. 8 Jean-Baptiste Robin in Recital. Oct. 9 CDMX: Birdman Live, featuring Antonio Sánchez. Oct. 12 CDMX: Natalia Lafourcade, featuring L.A. Philharmonic, conductor Gustavo Dudamel. Oct. 13 CDMX: Noche de Cine, featuring L.A. Philharmonic, conductor Gustavo Dudamel. Oct. 14 CDMX: Now! featuring Mexrrissey, La Sonora Santanera, Ampersan, NAAFI. Oct. 15 CDMX: Café Tacvba, featuring L.A. Philharmonic, conductor Gustavo Dudamel. Oct. 17 CDMX: New Music From Mexico, featuring L.A. Phil New Music Group, conductor Carlos Miguel Prieto. Oct. 18 Shaham in Recital, featuring violinist Gil Shaham, pianist Akira Eguchi. Oct. 19-21 Mirga Conducts Mahler, featuring L.A. Philharmonic, conductor Mirga Gražinyte-Tyla. Oct. 22 Chicago Symphony Orchestra, featuring conductor Riccardo Muti. Oct. 24 Brahms & Hillborg, featuring L.A. Philharmonic. Oct. 25 M. Ward; Rhiannon Giddens. Oct. 27-29 Symphonie Fantastique With Susanna Mälkki, featuring L.A. Philharmonic, violinist Leila Josefowicz. Oct. 30 Israel Philharmonic Orchestra, featuring conductor Zubin Mehta, pianist Yefim Bronfman. Oct. 31 Phantom of the Opera, featuring organist Clark Wilson. 111 S. Grand Ave., downtown, 323.850.2000 Map H16

Sports Los Angeles Memorial Coliseum Oct. 8 Los Angeles Rams vs. Seattle Seahawks. Oct. 21 Coliseum Gladiator MMA. 3911 S. Figueroa St., Exposition Park, L.A., 213.747.7111 Map K15 Staples center Oct. 2 Los Angeles Lakers vs. Denver Nuggets—Preseason. Oct. 5 Los Angeles Kings vs. Philadelphia Flyers. Oct. 8 Los Angeles Clippers vs. Portland Trail Blazers—Preseason. Oct. 10 Lakers vs. Utah Jazz—Preseason. Oct. 11 Kings vs. Calgary Flames. Oct. 12 Clippers vs. Sacramento Kings—Preseason. Oct. 13 Clippers vs. Lakers—Preseason. Oct. 14 Kings vs. Buffalo Sabres. Oct. 15 Kings vs. New York Islanders. Oct. 18 Kings vs. Montreal Canadiens. Oct. 19 Lakers vs. Clippers. Oct. 21 Clippers vs. Phoenix Suns. Oct. 22 Lakers vs. New Orleans Pelicans. Oct. 24 Clippers vs. Utah Jazz. Oct. 25 Lakers vs. Washington Wizards. Oct. 27 Lakers vs. Toronto Raptors. Oct. 28 Clippers vs. Detroit Pistons. Oct. 30 Clippers vs. Golden State Warriors. Oct. 31 Lakers vs. Detroit Pistons. 1111 S. Figueroa St., downtown, 213.742.7100 Map I15 Stubhub Center Oct. 1 Los Angeles Chargers vs. Philadelphia Eagles. Oct. 7 Los Angeles Galaxy II vs.

Portland Timbers 2. Oct. 15 Los Angeles Galaxy vs. Minnesota United. Oct. 22 Chargers vs. Denver Broncos. 18400 Avalon Blvd., Carson, 310.630.2000 Map M15

Attractions Aquarium of the Pacific Focus is on Pacific Ocean sea life. Touch the ocean’s predators in Shark Lagoon and the jellies in the Wonders of the Deep gallery, and meet penguins, sea otters, sea lions and 11,000 other animals. New Frogs: Dazzling and Disappearing exhibition. Daily 9 am-6 pm. $17.95-$29.95, under 3 free. 100 Aquarium Way, Long Beach, 562.590.3100 Map O16 Disneyland Mickey Mouse’s theme park. Attractions include Pirates of the Caribbean and updated Star Tours. Disney California Adventure is adjacent. Call for hours. $97-$124, under 3 free. 1313 Disneyland Drive, Anaheim, 714.781.4565 Map D6 Griffith Observatory Iconic attraction with spectacular views of L.A. and the Hollywood sign. Hourly shows at planetarium. Tu-F noon-10 pm; Sa-Su 10 am-10 pm. Admission free; planetarium shows $3-$7, under 5 free. 2800 E. Observatory Road, Griffith Park, L.A., 213.473.0800 Map U23 ifly hollywood “Indoor skydiving” via a vertical wind tunnel. Check iflyworld.com/hollywood for hours. $59.95-$99.95. Universal CityWalk, 100 Universal City Plaza, Universal City, 818.985.4359 Map G13 L.A. LIVE Bustling entertainment center is home to the Grammy Museum, Los Angeles Convention Center, Microsoft Theater and the Novo by Microsoft; restaurants including Katsuya and Cleo; high-tech bowling lanes; a 14-screen cinema; the Ritz-Carlton Spa; and nightspots such as the Conga Room. 800 W. Olympic Blvd., downtown, 213.763.5483 Map I15  L.A. Zoo AND Botanical Gardens Home to more than 250 animal species, many of them endangered, living among immersive habitats and lush gardens. Highlights include the Rainforest of the Americas exhibit. Daily 10 am-5 pm. Ticket sales cease one hour before closing. $15-$20, under 2 free. 5333 Zoo Drive, Griffith Park, L.A., 323.644.4200 Map T23 LEGOLAND Resort features more than 60 rides, shows and attractions, Sea Life Aquarium, Legoland Water Park and Legoland Hotel. New Lego Star Wars: The Force Awakens Miniland model display. See legoland.com for hours, ticket packages. Parking $17-$25. 1 Legoland Drive, Carlsbad, 760.918.5346 MADAME TUSSAUDS HOLLYWOOD Re-create favorite film and musical moments at the world-famous museum of wax figures. Hours vary. $23.95-$30.95, under 3 free. 6933 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.798.1670 Map H13 original farmers Market Local landmark with 120 produce stalls, restaurants and gift shops in open-air setting. Adjacent to the Grove shopping center. 6333 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.933.9211 Map I13 oUE SKYSPACE L.A. California’s tallest open-air observation deck, at nearly 1,000 feet above the city, boasts 360-degree views and a 45-foot-long glass “Skyslide” from the 70th to the 69th floor. 633 W. 5th St., downtown, 213.894.9000 Map I16 Reagan Presidential Library and Museum Visit the Air Force One Pavilion and see a full-size replica of the White House Oval Office. Ticket prices include admission to Titanic at the Reagan Library (through Jan. 7, 2018). Daily 10 am-5 pm. $16$29, under 2 free. 40 Presidential Drive, Simi Valley, 800.410.8354 Map northwest of A1 Queen Mary Historic ocean liner permanently berthed in Long Beach Harbor. Shops, hotel, art deco lounge, a 4-D theater and restaurants. Daily self-guided

American contemporary ballet’s inferno, art lessman

Lorde, Sam Hunt and more. Oct. 28-29 Zac Brown Band. See hollywoodbowl.com for lease-event guidelines. 2301 N. Highland Ave., Hollywood, 323.850.2000 Map G13

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Trick- or-Treat by the Sea WEEKENDS SEPT. 23 - O C T. 29

Kids can celebrate Halloween for FREE at SeaWorld® with trick-or-treating and more! Plus see everyone’s favorite furry friends in a Sesame Street® show – Who Said Boo?! Kids have even more fun in costume.

KID FREE

WITH PAID ADULT SINGLE-DAY TICKET

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ATTRACTIONS

WORLD PREMIERE - NOW OPEN

and guided tours; night tours available. Check queenmary.com for hours and prices. 1126 Queens Hwy., Long Beach, 877.342.0738 Map O16 SEAWORLD The 189-acre adventure park features thousands of marine animals including fish, reptiles and birds. New Orca Encounter show. Open daily; call for hours, ticket packages and discounts. $88.99-$94.99, under 3 free. Parking $17-$30. 500 SeaWorld Drive, San Diego, 619.222.4732 Map H13 UNIVERSAL CITYWALK Dining, shopping and entertainment promenade includes boutiques such as Fossil and Billabong; new restaurants such as Jimmy Buffett’s Margaritaville, Dongpo Kitchen, LudoBird and Voodoo Doughnut; novelty stores such as Magnet Max and Things From Another World; a renovated, state-of-the-art Universal Cinema and Imax theater; and simulated skydiving wind tunnel iFly Hollywood. Call for hours. 100 Universal City Plaza, Universal City, 818.622.4455 Map U20 UNIVERSAL STUDIOS HOLLYWOOD Movie-based theme park. The Wizarding World of Harry Potter and The Walking Dead Attraction are popular recent additions. Other attractions include Transformers: The Ride 3-D; Despicable Me: Minion Mayhem and adjacent Super Silly Fun Land; and the Simpsons Ride and its immersive environment, Springfield. Studio Tour includes Peter Jackson’s King Kong 360 3-D, film and TV sets and the Fast & Furious—Supercharged hydraulic motion-based thrill ride. Call or check universalstudioshollywood.com for hours and prices. 100 Universal City Plaza, Universal City, 800.864.8377 Map U20

STUDIO TOURS PARAMOUNT PICTURES STUDIO TOUR Two-hour group tour of Hollywood’s longest-operating and only remaining major studio. Reservations recommended. Tours daily (except some holidays) every half-hour 9:30 am-3 pm. $55; VIP tour $178, under 10 not admitted. 2.5-hour After Dark Tour every 15 minutes F-Sa 7:30-8 pm. $78, under 12 not admitted. 5515 Melrose Ave., Hollywood, 323.956.1777 Map I14

REAL STORIES. REAL ARTIFACTS. REAL PEOPLE.

First-of-its-kind exhibition not seen anywhere else before! Experience real artifacts from the Titanic and items used in the discovery of the famed ship alongside props, sets and costumes from the blockbuster movie about the RMS Titanic! Photo Courtesy of Jonas Sejr Thomsen

R E A G A N L I B R A RY. C O M / T I TA N I C 40 Presidential Dr., Simi Valley, CA 93065 • 800.410.8354

UNIVERSAL STUDIOS HOLLYWOOD Legendary studio tour (also see listing under “Attractions”). VIP Experience includes front-of-line privileges, gourmet lunch and other perks. Check universalstudioshollywood. com or call for hours and prices. 100 Universal City Plaza, Universal City, 818.622.3801 Map U20  WARNER BROS. STUDIO TOUR HOLLYWOOD Three-hour tour of working TV and film studio includes backlots, prop warehouse, Stage 48: Script to Screen interactive soundstage, the real Central Perk set, original Batmobiles and observation of filming (when possible). The Harry Potter & Fantastic Beasts exhibit is new. Deluxe tour available. Reservations recommended; photo ID required. Daily 9 am-3 pm. $55-$68, under 8 not admitted. 3400 W. Riverside Drive, Burbank, 877.492.8687 Map U20

STUDIO TAPINGS 1IOTA Free tickets to live tapings of TV shows including Jimmy Kimmel Live!, The Late Late Show With James Corden, The Voice and The Talk, as well as special events. Minimum age 16-18, varies by show. 323.417.6550, 1iota.com AUDIENCES UNLIMITED Free tickets to live tapings of TV shows on CBS, Fox, NBC, Netflix and the CW that are produced in the L.A. area, such as The Big Bang Theory and Fuller House. Minimum age 10-18, varies by show. 818.260.0041, ext. 1, tvtickets.com ON-CAMERA AUDIENCES Free tickets to live tapings of TV shows including America’s Got Talent, Dancing With the Stars and The Price Is Right. Minimum age 12-18, varies by show. 818.295.2700, mytvtickets.com

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ATTRACTIONS MUSEUMS THE ANNENBERG SPACE FOR PHOTOGRAPHY Cultural venue dedicated to digital and print photography. W-Su 11 am-6 pm. Free. Parking $3.50, $1 after 4:30 pm and all day Sa-Su. 2000 Avenue of the Stars, Century City, 213.403.3000 Map J11 AUTRY MUSEUM OF THE AMERICAN WEST Museum explores the art, history and cultures of the American West. Houses one of the top U.S. collections of Native American materials. Tu-F 10 am-4 pm; Sa-Su 10 am-5 pm. $6-$14, under 3 free. 4700 Western Heritage Way, Griffith Park, L.A., 323.667.2000 Map H14 THE BROAD Museum built by philanthropists and art collectors Eli and Edythe Broad contains more than 2,000 works of contemporary art. Tu-W 11 am-5 pm; Th-F 11 am-8 pm; Sa 10 am-8 pm; Su 10 am-6 pm. See thebroad.org for special-exhibition ticket information and extended hours. Free. Online reservations encouraged. 221 S. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.232.6200 Map H16 CALIFORNIA SCIENCE CENTER Interactive exhibits for budding scientists; Imax theater. Daily 10 am-5 pm. Permanent gallery, free; admission for other exhibits and Imax varies. Parking $12. 700 Exposition Park Drive, Exposition Park, L.A., 323.724.3623 Map K15 GETTY CENTER Travertine-clad hilltop facility houses collections of paintings, drawings, antiquities, photographs and decorative arts. Fabulous Central Garden and city views. Tu-F, Su 10 am-5:30 pm; Sa 10 am-9 pm. Free. Parking $15, $10 after 3 pm. 1200 Getty Center Drive, L.A., 310.440.7300 Map H9

L.A., Let’s Play! Now on view, experience an exhibition of toys and games spanning the times and cultures of the American West. The fun extends outside with playground games, hands-on activities, and events for the entire family. SPONSORED BY

AUTRY MUSEUM OF THE AMERICAN WEST 4700 Western Heritage Way, Los Angeles, CA 90027 TheAutry.org/Play | #AutryPlay Across from the L.A. Zoo | Free Parking | Closed Mondays

GETTY VILLA Getty Center’s exquisite coastal counterpart features Etruscan, Roman and Greek antiquities. W-M 10 am-5 pm. Free. Parking $15, $10 after 3 pm. Advance timed tickets required for entry. 17985 Pacific Coast Hwy., Pacific Palisades, 310.440.7300 Map K7 GRAMMY MUSEUM Museum on L.A. Live campus explores music, the creative and recording processes and Grammy Awards history. M-F 10:30 am-6:30 pm; Sa-Su 10 am-6:30 pm. $10.95-$12.95, under 6 free. 800 W. Olympic Blvd., downtown, 213.765.6800 Map I15 HAMMER MUSEUM UCLA-affiliated museum presents influential traveling shows and installations alongside its permanent collection. Tu-F 11 am-8 pm; Sa-Su 11 am-5 pm. Free. 10899 Wilshire Blvd., Westwood, 310.443.7000 Map J10 HOLLYWOOD MUSEUM In the historic Max Factor Building, steps from the Walk of Fame, the Hollywood Museum houses 10,000 authentic showbiz treasures that showcase 100 years of Hollywood’s entertainment industry. W-Su 10 am-5 pm. $5-$15. 1660 N. Highland Ave., Hollywood, 323.464.7776 Map H13 HUNTINGTON LIBRARY, ART COLLECTIONS, AND BOTANICAL GARDENS Art, buildings and grounds, with a dozen themed gardens; new dining concepts; a beautiful gallery and an education and visitor center. W-M 10 am-5 pm. $13-$25, under 4 free. 1151 Oxford Road, San Marino, 626.405.2141 Map R21 LA BREA TAR PITS AND MUSEUM Watch paleontologists at work uncovering ice age L.A. Among the main attractions are the ever-bubbling tar pits, which make up the world’s most famous fossil-excavation site. Daily 9:30 am-5 pm. $5-$12, under 3 free. 5801 Wilshire Blvd., L.A., 323.934.7243 Map J13 LOS ANGELES COUNTY MUSEUM OF ART The largest art museum in the western U.S., with diverse, superb collections housed on a 20-acre campus. M-Tu, Th 11 am-5 pm; F 11 am-8 pm; Sa-Su 10 am-7 pm. $10-$15, under 18 free. 5905 Wilshire Blvd., L.A., 323.857.6000 Map J13

MUSEUM OF TOLERANCE www.museumoftolerance.com

9786 west pico boulevard los angeles, ca 90035 t: 310.772.2506

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SHOPPING

“The Official Museum of Hollywood” -Hollywood’s Honorary Mayor, Johnny Grant

LOS ANGELES MUSEUM OF THE HOLOCAUST The West Coast’s largest archive of Holocaust-era documents, relics and other primary- source materials. Interactive and audiovisual exhibits include “The World That Was” touch-screen table. Sa-Th 10 am-5 pm; F 10 am-2 pm. Free. Pan Pacific Park, 100 S. The Grove Drive, L.A., 323.651.3704 Map I12 Museum of Contemporary Art Premier contemporary-art museum housed in three facilities. GC (reopening in Oct.) and GA: M, W, F 11 am-6 pm; Th 11 am-8 pm; Sa-Su 11 am-5 pm. PDC: Tu-F 11 am-5 pm; Sa-Su 11 am-6 pm. GA and GC: $8-$15, under 12 free; free at PDC. MOCA Grand Avenue (GA), 250 S. Grand Ave., downtown; The Geffen Contemporary at MOCA (GC), 152 N. Central Ave., downtown; MOCA Pacific Design Center (PDC), 8687 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 213.626.6222 Map H16, H17, I12 Museum of Latin American Art Leading museum of modern and contemporary Latin American art; Robert Gumbiner Sculpture Garden. W-Th, Sa-Su 11 am-5 pm; F 11 am-9 pm. $7-$10, under 12 free. 628 Alamitos Ave., Long Beach, 562.437.1689 Map O6 Museum of Tolerance Exhibits on prejudice and discrimination, legacy of the Holocaust, humanrights issues and Anne Frank’s life and legacy. Su-F 10 am-5 pm. $11.50-$15.50, under 5 free. 9786 W. Pico Blvd., L.A., 310.553.8403 Map J11 Natural History Museum of Los Angeles County Thirty-three million objects, from dinosaur fossils to fish. The 3.5-acre Nature Gardens, interactive Nature Lab and Tyrannosaurus rex growth series exhibit are highlights. Daily 9:30 am-5 pm. $5-$12, under 3 free. 900 Exposition Blvd., Exposition Park, L.A., 213.763.3466 Map K15 PETERSen automotive museum Recently renovated museum displays about 135 vintage cars, trucks and motorcycles in permanent and rotating exhibits. Daily 10 am-6 pm. $7-$15, under 3 free. Vault tours $20, under 10 not admitted. 6060 Wilshire Blvd., L.A., 323.930.2277 Map J13 Skirball Cultural Center Cultural venue highlights the American Jewish experience through engaging exhibitions and programs. The awardwinning Noah’s Ark attraction is great for tots. Tu-F noon-5 pm; Sa-Su 10 am-5 pm. $7-$12, under 2 free, free Thursdays. 2701 N. Sepulveda Blvd., L.A., 310.440.4500 Map G9

Shopping Destinations THE AMERICANA AT BRAND Downtown Glendale hot spot from the creators of the Grove with Main Street, U.S.A., atmosphere and trolley. Some 90 stores such as Kate Spade and Toms. Dining options include Din Tai Fung and Bourbon Steak by Michael Mina. 889 Americana Way, Glendale, 818.637.8900 Map U23 Beverly Center Trendsetting mall near West Hollywood is undergoing a multimillion-dollar renovation. It has more than 100 boutiques (Burberry, Dolce & Gabbana, True Religion concept store, Uniqlo, Cos) and is anchored by Macy’s and Bloomingdale’s. 8500 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 310.854.0070 Map I12 Citadel Outlets Assyrian architecture south of downtown stands out along the Golden State (5) Freeway; the center offers discounted clothes from Coach, Guess, H&M, Banana Republic, Levi’s and Converse, to name just a few. 100 Citadel Drive, L.A., 323.888.1724 Map B4 The Grove Popular outdoor center is home to 40 shops including Apple, Brandy Melville, Nordstrom and Elizabeth and James and nine restaurants including Blue Ribbon Sushi Bar & Grill and Ladurée, all in a setting that suggests a grand old downtown. Movie theater,

trolley and dancing fountain are draws. Adjacent to Original Farmers Market. 189 The Grove Drive, L.A., 888.315.8883 Map I13 Santa monica place Sleek outdoor mall at south end of Third Street Promenade anchored by Nordstrom and Bloomingdale’s. More than 80 boutiques, including Lorna Jane, Coach, Chan Luu and Barneys New York, plus a rooftop Dining Deck and ArcLight Cinemas. 395 Santa Monica Place, Santa Monica, 310.394.1049 Map L8

IN THE HISTORIC MAX FACTOR BUILDING

South Coast Plaza High-end center in Orange County boasts nearly 300 boutiques (Chanel, Céline, Gucci, Chloé, Bottega Veneta) and 40 restaurants, including new Water Grill. Concierge at four locations. 3333 Bristol St., Costa Mesa, 800.782.8888 Map E6 Third Street Promenade Pedestrian-only shopping zone includes shops (Zara, Cotton On, Converse, Anthropologie), kiosks and an array of entertaining street performers. 1351 Third Street Promenade, Santa Monica, 310.393.8355 Map L8 Two Rodeo Center with cobblestones in the heart of Beverly Hills features luxury boutiques including Jimmy Choo and Tiffany & Co., plus fine-art gallery Galerie Michael and restaurant 208 Rodeo. 9478 Dayton Way, Beverly Hills, 310.247.7040 Map J11 Westfield AT LAX Travelers flying out of LAX can enjoy some of L.A.’s top retail and dining options curated by Westfield (Fred Segal, MAC Cosmetics, Wolfgang Puck, Spanx, SeaLegs Wine Bar, Porsche Design, Petrossian) available to travelers flying out of LAX’s Tom Bradley International Terminal, as well as terminals 1, 2, 3 and 6. 380 World Way, L.A., 310.646.1770, westfieldatlax.com Map O10 Westfield Century City Open-air mall nearing completion of an $800 million-plus revitalization has more than 175 stores, including new Compartes Chocolatier, Equipment and Urban Decay. Luxe AMC multiplex with Imax screen, food-court atrium and terrace; restaurants include Toscanova. 10250 Santa Monica Blvd., Century City, 310.277.3898 Map J11

NIGHTLIFE 1 Oak Strikingly seductive, art-filled club from New York. 9039 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.274.2326 Map H12 the abbey David Cooley’s world-famous gay bar and nightclub. A new concept, the Chapel at the Abbey, is adjacent. 692 N. Robertson Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.289.8410 Map H12 BREAK ROOM 86 1980s-style bar inside the Line Hotel with karaoke suites and live entertainment. 630 S. Ardmore Ave., L.A., 213.368.3056 Map west of H15 The bungalow Seaside cottage-style nightspot with gourmet bites by Fig Restaurant. The Fairmont Miramar Hotel & Bungalows, 101 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.899.8530 Map L8 covell Intimate Los Feliz neighborhood wine bar from Dustin Lancaster, who’s also behind Silver Lake’s L&E Oyster Bar and El Condor. 4628 Hollywood Blvd., L.A., 323.660.4400 Map W23 doheny room Stylish art deco-style bar and lounge from the SBE Group offers a diverse menu by Cleo chef Danny Elmaleh. 9077 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood, 424.777.0266 Map H12 Good Times at Davey Wayne’s ’70s-themed bar from the Houston brothers. 1611 N. El Centro Ave., L.A., 323.962.3804 Map H14 la descarga Cuban-inspired rum bar. Live band and dance performances. Reservations recommended.

SEE 10,000 AUTHENTIC SHOWBIZ TREASURES SHOWCASING 100 YEARS OF HOLLYWOOD!

The most extensive collection of costumes, props, posters, and photographs in the world!

SPECIAL EXHIBITS

Marilyn Monroe - The Exhibit 100 Years of Favorite - Films & TV Shows Real to Reel: Portrayals and Perceptions of LGBTQs in Hollywood Jean Harlow: The Original Hollywood Blonde Bombshell Celebrating the Emmys...Best of TV

Open: Wed. - Sun. 10am-5pm “#1 Hollywood Tourist Attraction” –LA Weekly “One of LA’s Top 10 Museums” –LA Tourism and Convention Board “Certificate of Excellence” –Trip Advisor 1660 North Highland Avenue at Hollywood Boulevard Hollywood, California 90028 323.464.7776 www.TheHollywoodMuseum.com

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NIGHTLIFE Upscale dress code. 1159 N. Western Ave., L.A., 323.466.1324 Map east of H14 LAUGH FACTORY Famed comedy nightclub. 8001 W. Sunset Blvd., L.A., 323.656.1336; 151 S. Pine Ave., Long Beach, 562.495.2844 Map H12, N16 MELROSE UMBRELLA CO. Rustic-chic space with creative cocktails and inventive fare. Coffee is also offered during the day. 7465 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.951.0709 Map I12 THE NICE GUY H.Wood Group’s reservations-only, Italian-inspired restaurant and mixology lounge. 401 N. La Cienega Blvd., L.A., 310.360.9500 Map I12 NIGHTINGALE PLAZA SBE’s exclusive nightclub has a high-tech main club room, two bars/lounges and an outdoor garden “oasis.” 643 N. La Cienega Blvd., L.A., 323.457.2211 Map I12 NO VACANCY Gin cocktails and live entertainment in a Victorian boutique hotel. 1727 N. Hudson Ave., Hollywood, 323.465.1902 Map H14

Enjoy sweet-and-spooky Halloween adventures at the L.A. Zoo every day in October, and special entertainment on most weekend days — including puppet shows, pumpkin carving, and more!

LAZoo.org/Boo

PERCH Open-air roost in a historic building; indoor cabaret lounge Bar Thirteen is underneath. 448 S. Hill St., downtown, 213.802.1770 Map I16 POUR VOUS Parisian-inspired Champagne and cocktail salon. Upscale dress code. 5574 Melrose Ave., Hollywood, 323.871.8699 Map I14 SEVEN GRAND Whiskey bar with tongue-in-cheek hunt-club decor. Intimate Bar Jackalope hidden in the back features more than 120 premium whiskeys. 515 W. 7th St., downtown, 213.614.0737 Map I16 THE SPARE ROOM Gaming parlor and cocktail lounge with bowling lanes and fancy drinks. Hollywood Roosevelt Hotel, 7000 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.769.7296 Map H13

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UPSTAIRS Sip drinks and enjoy stunning city views atop Ace Hotel, in the historic United Artists Building. 929 S. Broadway, downtown, 213.623.3233 Map I16

TOURS + TRANSPORT Live: W 4.625"x H 4.875"

AMTRAK Train and bus service within the county, along the coast and to major California locations, with nationwide connections. 800.872.7245, amtrak.com BEVERLY HILLS RENT-A-CAR Luxury and exotic rentals. 9732 S. Santa Monica Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.274.6969; 6085 Venice Blvd., Hollywood, 310.659.5555; LAX, 9220 S. Sepulveda Blvd., L.A., 310.670.2020, bhrentacar.com Map K12, J11, O10 BIKES AND HIKES L.A. Biking and hiking tours in customizable or preset itineraries. Daily tours include L.A. in a Day, Movie Star Homes and Hollywood bike tours. Daily 9 am-5 pm. 8743 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood, 323.796.8555, bikeshikes.com Map H12 CATALINA EXPRESS Year-round boat service to Catalina Island. Up to 30 daily departures from Long Beach, Dana Point, San Pedro. Reservations recommended. Ride Free on Your Birthday program. Call or check website for hours and prices. 800.481.3470, catalinaexpress.com DODGER STADIUM TOUR Behind-the-scenes tour allows guests to visit the field and the dugout, walk through the Vin Scully Press Box and more. $15-$20, under 4 free. 1000 Vin Scully Ave., L.A., 866.363.4377 Map G17 DOWNTOWN ART WALK Self-guided gallery tour/ party centered on Spring and Main streets between 2nd and 9th streets. Second Thursday of every month, noon10 pm; lounge open from 6-10 pm. Free. 213.617.4929, ext. 206, downtownartwalk.org Map I16

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TOURS + TRANSPORT

Nature, Art, Culture

GLENDEVON MOTORS This luxury-car-rental service offers only the best from iconic British brands—latemodel Rolls-Royces, Bentleys and Range Rovers— and offers free pickup and drop-off. Its Drive & Dine experience includes a scenic planned route and a wicker hamper filled with a gourmet picnic. 5550 Topanga Canyon Blvd., Suite 170, Woodland Hills, 818.835.9016, glendevonmotors.com Map west of A1 HORNBLOWER CRUISES & EVENTS Dine, dance and take in beautiful harbor views aboard one of Hornblower’s cruises. Dinner and Champagne brunch options. Fisherman’s Village, 13755 Fiji Way, Marina del Rey, 888.467.6256, hornblower.com Map O9 MELTING POT FOOD TOURS Tasting tours of foodie destinations such as Thai Town (hosted by chef Jet Tila), the Original Farmers Market and select restaurants. Private tours available. Reservation required. 424.247.9666; tickets, 800.979.3370, meltingpottours.com METRO City bus, light rail and subway. Rail lines connect downtown, Hollywood, Pasadena, Long Beach; underground Red Line from Union Station through Hollywood to San Fernando Valley; Gold Line from Union Station to East L.A. and through Pasadena to Azusa; Blue Line from downtown to Long Beach; Green Line from Norwalk to Redondo Beach; Expo Line from Santa Monica to downtown. 323.466.3876, metro.net

The Huntington

METROLINK Regional train system connects Los Angeles County with Ventura, Orange and San Diego counties. Six of seven Metrolink rail lines (including the Orange County lines, San Bernardino lines and Ventura County lines) begin at Union Station in downtown Los Angeles. 800.371.5465, metrolinktrains.com

Library, Art Collections, and Botanical Gardens

626-405-2240 Pasadena-adjacent Tours@huntington.org

OLD HOLLYWOOD TOUR The Hollywood Entertainment District BID’s new guided walking tour explores Tinseltown’s history, stopping at early movie theaters, residences, restaurants, celebrity haunts and more. Tours begin at the Hollywood Property Owners Alliance. Last Friday of the month, 10-11:30 am. $20. 6562 Hollywood Blvd., L.A., onlyinhollywood.org/oldhollywoodwalkingtour Map H13 STAR TRACK TOURS Star Track Tours’ video star tours take you by celebrities’ glamorous mansions and estates, while TVs in each new vehicle show you inside the homes of the rich and famous. See the homes of stars like Michael Jackson, Tom Cruise, Justin Bieber and Kim Kardashian. Enjoy a two-hour day or night tour of Hollywood and Beverly Hills. See website for schedule and prices. 6739 Hollywood Blvd., L.A., 310.905.7145, startracktours.com Map H13 STARLINE TOURS Celebrity-tour company offers Movie Stars’ Homes tours throughout the day. Its large repertoire also includes tours to beaches, theme parks, San Diego and more. The CitySightseeing double-decker hop-on, hop-off tour makes more than 70 stops around L.A. Prices vary. Tours begin at TCL Chinese Theatre, 6925 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 800.959.3131, starlinetours.com Map H13 TMZ CELEBRITY TOUR, HOLLYWOOD Two-hour bus tour highlights celebrity hot spots in Hollywood, Beverly Hills and on the Sunset Strip, brought to life with videos from TMZ’s on-air stories and the occasional star sighting. See website for pickup locations, hours and prices. 844.TMZ.TOUR (869.8687), tmztour.com

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Shopping is fun at this high-end designer resale store, offering the best of recent and vintage Chanel, Vuitton, Prada and more!

Clothes Heaven

111 E. Union St. 626.440.0929 clothesheaven.com

The only upscale boutique in greater Los Angeles for women size 12 and up. From comfortable to casual or dressy— classic to funky or fun: Abundance has it all! 13604 Ventura Blvd. Sherman Oaks

818.990.6128

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apMay1

Experience LA LA LAND Movie Locations Tour

1-Hr Hollywood Fun Tour

Movie Stars Homes Tour

Hop-On, Hop-Off Tour

starlinetours.com @starlinetours

STARLINE TOURS HOLLYWOOD TERMINAL LOCATED AT TCL CHINESE THEATRE 6925 HOLLYWOOD BOULEVARD, HOLLYWOOD 90028 SANTA MONICA TERMINAL IS AT 1434 2ND ST., SANTA MONICA 90401

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where 31 days, 31 ways to love l.a. in october

KCRW’s Music Tastes Good fest in Long Beach. mtglb.co

The Flaming Lips + Mac DeMarco at Fox Theater Pomona. foxpomona.com

Alison Krauss performs with David Gray at the Greek Theatre. p. 66

Depeche Mode at the Hollywood Bowl (Oct. 12, 14, 16, 18). p. 66

Singer-songwriter Father John Misty at the Greek Theatre. p. 66

The Marina del Rey Film Festival (Oct. 2-8). marinadelreyfilmfestival.com Werk It: A Women’s Podcast Festival at the Theatre at Ace Hotel (Oct. 3-5). p. 66

Chicago-based Chance the Rapper at the Hollywood Bowl (Oct. 3-4). p. 66 The return of English band Gorillaz at the Forum. p. 66

06 07

Coldplay at Rose Bowl Stadium. p. 66

The Mid-Autumn Moon Festival in Chinatown’s Central Plaza. p. 65

Car-free Ciclavia—Heart of L.A., winding through Chinatown, downtown, Boyle Heights and Echo Park. p. 65

where in the world

Alpine Village’s Oktoberfest (through Oct. 28) p. 65 Bright Star at the Ahmanson Theatre, opening tonight. p. 65

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The Veuve Clicquot Polo Classic at Will Rogers State Historic Park. p. 65

Los Angeles Galaxy vs. Minnesota United at Stubhub Center. p. 66

Spa Week, which offers $50 signature services at spas across the city (Oct. 16-23). p. 65

Where is an international network of magazines first published in 1936 and distributed in 4,000 leading hotels in more than 50 places around the world. Look for us when you visit any of the following cities, or plan ahead for your next trip by visiting us online at wheretraveler.com United States Alaska, Atlanta, Baltimore, Boston, Charleston, Charlotte, Chicago, Dallas, Georgia, Indianapolis, Las Vegas, Los Angeles, Maui, Minneapolis/St. Paul,

Radical Women: Latin American Art, 1960– 1985, part of Pacific Standard Time: LA/LA, at the Hammer Museum (all month). p. 70

19 20

Lakers vs. Clippers at Staples Center. p. 66

The WestEdge Design Fair at the Barker Hangar in Santa Monica (Oct. 19-22). westedgedesignfair.com

Brahms & Hillborg, a chamber-music performance at Walt Disney Concert Hall. p. 66 The walkable Lit Crawl in the NoHo Arts District. p. 65

Tiffany Favrile Glass at the Huntington Library, Art Collections, and Botanical Gardens (opens Oct. 7). p. 70

27 28

Enrique Iglesias and Pitbull at the Forum. p. 66

The Beverly Hills Artshow in Beverly Gardens Park (Oct. 21-22). p. 65

Contemporary Crafts Market at the Pasadena Convention Center (Oct. 27-29). contemporarycraftsmarket.com

The EastSide Food Festival, featuring some 35 food vendors, at Mack Sennett Studios. p. 65

Tegan and Sara’s The Con X: Tour at the Theatre at Ace Hotel (Oct. 23-24). p. 66

The Downtown Día de los Muertos celebration at Grand Park. grandparkla.org

X: 40 Years of Punk in Los Angeles at the Grammy Museum (opens Oct. 13). p. 70

Tricks and treats for Halloween. p. 6

New Orleans, New York, Northern Virginia, Oahu, Orange County (CA), Orlando, Philadelphia, Phoenix/Scottsdale, San Diego, San Francisco, Seattle, South Florida, St. Louis, Tampa, Washington, D.C. ASIA Hong Kong, Macau, Singapore AUStrALIA Brisbane, Sydney, Melbourne Canada Calgary, Canadian Rockies, Edmonton, Halifax, Muskoka/Parry Sound, Ottawa, Toronto, Vancouver, Victoria, Whistler, Winnipeg Europe Budapest, London, Milan, Moscow, Paris, Rome, St. Petersburg

22, max lanman; 28, glenn dizon necklace, courtesy Contemporary crafts market; 12, anton cobjin; 14, courtesy veuve clicquot; 29, javier guillen; 26, miniature vase, photo courtesy The Huntington Library, Art Collections, and Botanical Gardens/© David Schlegel, courtesy of Paul Doros

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HOLLYWOOD HOLLYWOODMADE MADEHERE HERE BOOK BOOKONLINE ONLINE AND ANDSAVE SAVE

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TH E E TE RNAL MOVE ME NT Ulysse Nardin, from the movement of the sea to the perpetual innovation of Haute Horlogerie. For over 170 years, the powerful movement of the ocean has inspired Ulysse Nardin in its singular quest: to push back the limits of mechanical watchmaking, time and time again.

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