Where Los Angeles, October 2016 by California Media Group

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october 2016 SocalPulSe.com

Los Angeles

celebrating 80 years in the know

Dine

Now ThaT’s ITalIaN

Play

halloweeN happeNINgs

shoP

elIzabeTh aNd James

Dance, Sing, Create! Immerse yourself in the season’s bountiful arts and culture offerings

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HARRY POTTER characters, names and related indiciaindicia are ©are &™ Warner Bros. Bros. Entertainment Inc. Harry PotterPotter Publishing RightsRights © JKR. HARRY POTTER characters, names and related ©& ™ Warner Entertainment Inc. Harry Publishing © (s16) JKR. (s16) ©2016 Universal Studios. All Rights Reserved. 16-ADV-19217 ©2016 Universal Studios. All Rights Reserved. 16-ADV-19217

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where los angeles

10.16

COntents

The arts + culture issue

departments

the guide

6 Editor’s Note

52 Dining Notable restaurants by cuisine

Something for everyone.

8 Hot Dates Go behind the scenes at L.A.’s world-class cultural venues during Grand Ave Arts: All Access. Comedy, music and food festivals complete an eclectic month.

74 Entertainment Special events, performing arts and sports 75 Attractions + museums Theme parks, activities, studio tours, exhibitions and more

88 30 Things We Love October goes upscale with sophisticated fashions, aromatic libations and blue-chip art.

78 shopping The county’s major retail destinations

where now 10 Dining

Citizen brings new American cuisine and cocktail-party vibes to Beverly Hills. In Echo Park, Winsome delights with picturesque dishes served in a charming space.

Halloween is upon us, and that means tons of scary (or not-soscary, if that’s more your speed) fun at haunted attractions popping up across Los Angeles.

80 TOURS + TRANSPORT Getting out, getting around and getting to know Los Angeles

City Tours

For the Record: Scorsese at the Wallis

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features

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14 Angeleno-Italiano ON THE COVER Pacific Northwest Ballet’s Benjamin Griffiths and Carrie Imler perform a piece by William Forsythe. See p. 8.

To Topanga Canyon

Maps 10

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Food fads come and go, but Italian cuisine is perennially popular. Say ciao to L.A.’s top trattorias, osterias and ristorantes. By Roger Grody

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18 Beyond the Canvas and Curtain Expand your artistic horizons at these genre-bending shows and creative public programs presented by Los Angeles’ most venerable museums and cultural institutions. By marina Kay

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Connect with us online

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Knott’s Berry Farm

SoCalPulse.com Get the up-to-the-minute buzz from our Southern California editors online and on your smartphone. 10

Angel Stadium of Anaheim

Staples Center/L.A. Live/ Convention Center

South Coast Plaza/ Segerstrom Center for the Arts

where Los Angeles

from top: courtesy sotto; for the record. cover: © Angela Sterling

12 Entertainment

L.A.’s coastline

A cocktail at Sotto

11 Shopping The Olsen twins’ Elizabeth and James opens its first brick-andmortar, gracing the Grove with its chic wardrobe mainstays.

79 BEACHES Sandy stops along

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OSKA 9693 Wilshire Boulevard Beverly Hills, CA 90212 310 271 2806 OSKA 13 Douglas Alley Pasadena, CA 91103 626 432 1729 Shop online beverlyhills.oska.com

Beverly Hills / Chicago / Edina / Healdsburg / Mill Valley / New York / Pasadena / Seattle / Calgary / Vancouver Sydney / London / Paris / Munich / Amsterdam / Stockholm

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WALT DISNEY CONCERT HALL 2016/17

where M AG A Z INE

PUBLISHER EDITOR

Jeff Levy

Suzanne Ennis

ART DIRECTOR

Carol Wakano

EDITOR IN CHIEF

Benjamin Epstein

PRODUCTION ARTIST Diana Gonzalez CONTRIBUTING DESIGNER Heidi Schwindt ASSOCIATE EDITOR Gillian Glover CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Vicki Arkoff, James Bartlett, Marina Kay, Heather Platt

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

Dale Berman, Angela DeCenzo, Daniel Ennis, Matt Hartman, Dave Lauridsen, Lisa Romerein, Edwin Santiago

Be there when Gustavo gives the downbeat!

SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGER

Jessica Levin Poff

ACCOUNT MANAGERS

Kerry Brewer, Heather Heintz, Julie Hoffman, Heather Price, Crystal Sierra BUSINESS MANAGER

Leanne Killian Riggar

CIRCULATION / SPECIAL EVENTS MANAGER

Dudamel and the Los Angeles Philharmonic Kick Off the Season with Romantic Masterworks

Danielle Riffenburgh

PRODUCTION MANAGER Dawn Kiko Cheng WEB EDITOR Christina Xenos MARKETING MANAGER Anna Ciric ADMINISTRATION

Beethoven’s Piano Concerto No. 4 with Yefim Bronfman Brahms’ Violin Concerto with Joshua Bell Mahler’s 9th • Tchaikovsky’s 4th

Oct 2- 28

Also, don’t miss these extraordinary artists: Omara Portuondo Oct 5 Emerson String Quartet with Renée Fleming Oct 18 Hilary Hahn Oct 26 …and more!

Get Your Tickets Today! LAPhil.com | 323.850.2000 | Groups (10+) 323.850.2050 Programs, artists, prices and dates subject to change

Amina Karwa, Lisa Kelley, Laura Okey VICE PRESIDENT OF NATIONAL SALES Rick Mollineaux 202.463.4550 WEST COAST NATIONAL SALES Tiffany Reinhold 714.813.6600 DIRECTOR OF NATIONAL DIGITAL SALES Bridget Cody 706.821.6663 HONORARY PRESIDENT

Ted Levy

where Los Angeles

3679 Motor Ave., Suite 300 Los Angeles, California 90034 Phone: 310.280.2880 Fax: 310.280.2890 EMAIL Editorial Suzanne.Ennis@WhereLA.com Art Art@WhereLA.com Production Ads@WhereLA.com Website Christina.Xenos@WhereLA.com Circulation Danielle.Riffenburgh@WhereLA.com Plan for your next visit to Los Angeles. Subscribe to where: single copy $4, 12 issues $36. Contact: Danielle Riffenburgh. Phone: 310.280.2880 Email: Danielle.Riffenburgh@WhereLA.com © 2016 Southern California Media Group. All rights reserved. Published by Southern California Media Group. where makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part strictly prohibited. where is a registered trademark of Morris Visitor Publications.

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On the Web: SoCalPulse.com A MAGGIE AWARD-WINNING PUBLICATION BEST CONSUMER VISITOR’S GUIDE

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welcome a note from the editor

13604 Ventura Blvd. Sherman Oaks

818.990.6128

AbundancePlusSizes.com

something for everyone Are you one of those people who unabashedly declare “I’m not a museum person”? Well, I declare that you don’t know what you’re missing. According to the California Association of Museums, Los Angeles has over 300 museums—more than any other city in the country. Until you’ve visited every one, how can you be so sure

Los Angeles has over 300 museums—more than any other city in the country. ... Ostensibly you could visit six different L.A. museums per week, every week of the year, before exhausting the list.

daniel ennis

The only upscale boutique in greater Los Angeles for women size 12 and up. From comfortable to casual or dressy— classic to funky or fun: Abundance has it all!

you won’t fall for any of them? Let’s start with the juggernauts: the Getty, LACMA, the Broad, MOCA, Natural History Museum, etc. Between them, not only can you see virtually every form and style of fine art and learn about every nook and cranny of the natural world, but you can also enjoy a slew of public programs that defy the image of blue-chip art museums as fusty and highfalutin. In “Beyond the Canvas and Curtain” on p. 18, Marina Kay profiles several of those offerings, including cooking classes, meditation sessions and even sleepover parties with DJs and craft beer. In addition to those marquee museums are smaller niche museums including the Museum of Jurassic Technology in Culver City, which displays oddities like micromosaics made from diatoms and butterfly wings. In Hollywood, the Museum of Broken Relationships is filled with such memorabilia as breast implants and love letters. At the Los Angeles Police Museum in Highland Park, you can see a bullet-riddled car and a paddy wagon; downtown, FIDM Museum has centuries’ worth of fashions, and Velveteria exalts velvet paintings. And those are just the tip of the iceberg. Ostensibly you could visit six different L.A. museums per week, every week of the year, before exhausting the list. I am a museum person, and I’ve only seen maybe 20 of them. Let’s get cracking. —Suzanne Ennis

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Getty V

THE O R I G I NAL H YBR I D No doubt, hybrid cars are the vehicles of choice in Los Angeles for their efficiency. At the Getty Villa you can see antiquity’s version of a hybrid, half bird, half cat. This feline mix can prey faster than a regular cat and gets unlimited miles to the gallon. Come visit this winged wonder and the more than 1,200 antiquities on display.

DANIEL ENNIS

The Getty Villa. One mile north of Sunset on PCH. Reserve your free ticket today. Admission is free. An advance timed-entry ticket is required. Winged Feline, Tartessian, 700–575 B.C. Bronze. The J. Paul Getty Museum. Text and Design © 2016 J. Paul Getty Trust

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getty.edu

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Where calendar october 2016 Search the full calendar at SoCalPulse.com

Top Stops

Oct. 5, 8, 13, 16 TOIL AND TROUBLE L.A. Opera takes on Shakespeare with its new production of Macbeth at the Dorothy Chandler Pavilion. p. 75

Hot dates

oct. 29 grand openings Now in its second year, Grand Ave Arts: All Access finds downtown L.A.’s top cultural institutions filling Grand Avenue between Temple and 6th streets with free performances, behind-the-scenes tours, exhibitions and family-friendly activities. The Broad, Center Theatre Group (see above), Colburn School, Grand Park, L.A. Opera, L.A. Central Library, L.A. Master Chorale, L.A. Philharmonic, MOCA, the Music Center and REDCAT all get in on the fun. Visit grandavearts.tumblr.com for this year’s schedule.

fairs, fests and more fun events

1 EASTSIDE FOOD FESTival > OCT. 2 Sample bites like those on the left at this festival at Mack Sennett Studios. eastsidefoodfest.com 2 ONLY IN HOLLYWOOD MUSIC + ARTS FESTIVAL > OCT. 6-8 Enjoy art, music and comedy at this neighborhood open house. p. 74

Here for the weekend? Go to SoCalPulse.com for the Weekend Roundup, where you can get the lowdown on the coolest festivals, performingarts events, dining promotions and more.

3 FESTIVAL OF DISRUPTION > OCT. 8-9 Curated by David Lynch, this fest at the Theatre at Ace Hotel features the likes of Robert Plant and Frank Gehry. festivalofdisruption.com

VEUVE CLICQUOT POLO CLASSIC > OCT. 15 Will Rogers State Historic Park hosts an afternoon of picnicking and polo. p. 74 4

5 BEVERLY HILLS ARTSHOW > OCt. 15-16 Art aficionados browse paintings, photography, ceramics and more at this biannual show, held at Beverly Gardens Park. p. 74 6 BREWERY ARTWALK > OCt. 22-23 Visit more than 100 artist studios and enjoy great deals on original art during the fall edition of this twice-annual art walk. p. 74 7 FESTIVAL SUPREME > oct. 29 Flight of the Conchords, “Weird Al” Yankovic and Sarah Silverman headline this comedy-music festival created by Tenacious D, held at the Shrine Expo Hall & Grounds. festivalsupreme.com 8 oktoberfest > Through oct. 29 Visit Torrance’s Alpine Village to dance to oompah bands and raise a stein to one of the oldest, biggest Bavarian celebrations in SoCal. p. 74

oct. 6-7 COOL CAT Singer-songwriter Yusuf/Cat Stevens plays an intimate acoustic set at the Pantages. hollywoodpantages.com Opening Oct. 19 ACTIVIST ART The Ease of Fiction subverts the status quo, and Genevieve Gaignard explores femininity and race at the California African American Museum. p. 77 Oct. 21-23 LET’S DANCE The Music Center kicks off its dance season with Celebrate Forsythe at the Dorothy Chandler Pavilion. p. 75 0ct. 23, 25-27 TRAINWRECK The Forum welcomes headliners ranging from Amy Schumer to Kanye West this month. p. 75 ALL MONTH STILL LIFE The Getty shows photos by Richard Learoyd and paintings by postwar British artists in London Calling (see below). p. 77

clockwise from top: Jamie Pham; R.B. Kitaj, the wedding (1989-1993), © R.B. Kitaj Estate, courtesy Marlborough Fine Art, Photo © Tate, London 2016; courtesy eastside food festival

what’s happening in arts & Culture

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THE YACHT-MASTER The emblematic nautical watch embodies a yachting heritage that stretches back to the 1950s. It doesn’t just tell time. It tells history.

OYSTER PERPETUAL YACHT-MASTER 40

rolex

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oyster perpetual and yacht-master are

trademarks.

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where now

los angeles

THE BEST IN DINING, SHOPPING AND ENTERTAINMENT

DINING

Upstanding Citizen The latest entrant to Beverly Hills’ dining scene is Citizen, an inviting restaurant with new American cuisine, enticing cocktails and classic rock on the sound system. The Spacecraft-designed spot, formerly occupied by Spaghettini & the Dave Koz Lounge, boasts warm, textured surfaces and booth seating. Spaghettini chef Scott Howard is still in the kitchen, which now churns out shareable plates like buttermilk biscuits with chipotle maple syrup, Pacific oysters, crispy Jidori chicken and baby roasted carrots (pictured above). Soigné Group’s Josh Goldman helms the bar program, offering cocktails divided into categories like Tiki, citrusy and three-martini lunch. Branded as a “social dining experience,” Citizen’s atmosphere evokes a cocktail-party vibe, best enjoyed in the open-air lounge around the cozy fire pit. Who wouldn’t want to become a citizen of a stylish spot like this? L (M-F), D (M-Sa). 184 N. Cañon Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.402.5885, citizenbeverlyhills.com

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The Tiki-Novela cocktail at Winsome

FROM TOP: SKANDIA SHAFER; COURTESY ELIZABETH AND JAMES. OPPOSITE: WONHO FRANK LEE

YOU WIN SOME ... If you have an Instagram account, you’ve probably seen Winsome, an all-day eatery in the Elysian apartment building in Echo Park. The dictionary defines “winsome” as cheerful, pleasant and appealing, and this spot from the owners of Hollywood’s Spare Room couldn’t be more aptly named. Undeniably picturesque are its dining-room mural (a recovered 1938 painting of Echo Park Lake by a Walt Disney Studios artist); brunch dishes such as potato rosti with a sunny-side-up egg, corned beef and cabbage; and colorful agua frescas. A new dinner menu from executive chef Jeremy Strubel (Rustic Canyon Wine Bar, Momed) includes such offerings as braised beef cheek and crispy tofu, plus shared entrées like whole roasted branzino. Factor in the freshly baked pastries, desserts and creative cocktails, and Winsome is the whole package. B, L (daily); D (W-M); Br (Sa-Su). 1115 W. Sunset Blvd., L.A., 213.415.1818, eatwinsome.com

SHOPPING

Double the Style Whether wearing boho dresses or sleek suits, Ashley Olsen and MaryKate Olsen have that je ne sais quoi that women of all ages want to channel—a feat more easily achieved in L.A., thanks to the opening of the first Elizabeth and James brick-andmortar at the Grove. The more playful little sibling of the Row (the CFDA-

winning twins’ luxury fashion line, whose first boutique debuted on Melrose Place in 2014), Elizabeth and James is a go-to for well-cut, mix-and-match wardrobe mainstays such as sumptuous knit sweaters, satin bomber jackets, denim jeans and fluid, wide-leg pants. Grove shoppers will also find the brand’s accessories

and fragrance collections and store exclusives like embossed croc totes and a jaguar-printed coat, plus a selection of vintage and specialty decor items curated by the N.Y.-based, L.A.-born designers themselves. The je ne sais quoi is free with every purchase. 189 The Grove Drive, L.A., 323.647.7111, elizabethandjames.us

The Grove’s new Elizabeth and James store

The Shop: Curve x Tom D

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angeles

E N t e r t a i n m en t

Halloween Happenings L.A.’s most beloved attractions turn spooky in October. We’ve rounded up a few of the county’s top haunts; whether you’re a scaredy cat, a horror-film buff or a tireless thrillseeker, you’ll find the perfect way to satisfy your Halloween hankering. —Gillian Glover FEARLESS FUN w At Rise of the Jack O’ Lanterns, 5,000 hand-carved, illuminated pumpkins line a walkway while a spooky soundtrack sets the mood, making it a perfect Halloween event for all ages. Ogle life-size works of art made out of multiple pumpkins, like the Chinese dragon pictured above. Los Angeles Convention Center (Oct. 13-16), 1201 S. Figueroa St., downtown; Fairplex (Oct. 27-30), 1101 W. McKinley Ave., Pomona, 818.639.8981, therise.org w All month long, the Los Angeles Zoo offers Halloween fun the kids can get in on at Boo at the L.A. Zoo, with haunted caves, a cornstalk maze, pumpkin carving, creepy crafts and creature encounters, plus trickor-treating Oct. 29-30. p. 76 GORY GOOD TIMES w Halloween takes a dramatic turn at Drama After Dark: A

Night of the Macabre With Poe and Gorey, taking place Oct. 22 at the Huntington Library, Art Collections, and Botanical Gardens. Walk the moonlit grounds (bring a flashlight!) and witness productions of chilling works by Edward Gorey and Edgar Allan Poe including The Gashlycrumb Tinies and The Tell-Tale Heart. Ages 10 and up. p. 77, brownpapertickets.com w Billed as the largest Halloween street party in the world, the West Hollywood Halloween Carnaval sees 500,000 wildly dressed revelers turn out for its Oct. 31 costume party, which features live entertainment, photo stations and food vendors. 800.368.6020, visitwesthollywood.com MACABRE MELODIES w Actor Bruce Campbell hosts Evil Dead in Concert—a screening of Sam Raimi’s 1981 cult horror film with a newly reimagined live score by composer Joseph LoDuca—at the Theatre at Ace Hotel on Oct. 25. Also at the theater, L.A. Opera off Grand presents Nosferatu: A Symphony of Horror on Oct. 29 and 31. The movie palace is screening F.W. Murnau’s 1922 silent horror classic accompanied by a live performance of

a new score by L.A. Opera’s chamber orchestra. After the Oct. 29 show, stick around for the Bloodsuckers Bash, the theater’s annual Halloween party featuring drinks, DJs and dark arts (ages 21+, costumes encouraged). 929 S. Broadway, downtown, 213.235.9614, theatre.acehotel.com w Danny Elfman is back for Halloween at the Hollywood Bowl, singing along as Jack Skellington while Tim Burton’s The Nightmare Before Christmas plays Oct. 28-30. The festivities also include a costume contest and trick-or-treating. p. 75 w On Halloween night, the Walt Disney Concert Hall hosts Horror in the Hall, showing the groundbreaking 1920 silent horror film The Cabinet of Dr. Caligari, with Clark Wilson providing an improvised live soundtrack on the venue’s magnificent pipe organ. p. 75 HAIR-RAISING HORROR w The popular Los Angeles Haunted Hayride, running all month, finds groups of scareseekers piling into the back of a tractor to be paraded through Griffith Park’s Old Zoo. During this year’s Secret Societythemed event, riders are herded off the wagon to face part of

the course on foot for the first time—with ghosts of hayrides past haunting their every step— to complete their initiation into an “elite” or “deranged” society. The Dark Maze and haunted village complete the experience. 4730 Crystal Springs Ave., Griffith Park, L.A., 310.993.8289, losangeleshauntedhayride.com w During the Queen Mary’s Dark Harbor—taking place all month—Long Beach’s ocean liner/hotel draws from its history, crafting modern-day scares out of the vessel’s haunted past. This year, the ship’s protector, the Iron Master, takes center stage with his new maze, Intrepid. Also on board are five more signature mazes, more than 200 monsters and a variety of spirited attractions. p. 76 w The film studio behind all the classic monster movies knows how to do Halloween right. At this year’s edition of Universal Studios Hollywood’s Halloween Horror Nights, open through Nov. 5, brave seven all-new terrifying mazes based on the likes of American Horror Story, The Exorcist and Krampus, then fight your way through The Walking Dead Attraction, The Purge-themed scare zones and Eli Roth’s Terror Tram. p. 77

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SHOP DINE REL A X … M AKE MEMORIES

N O R D S T R O M • B A R N E Y S N E W YO R K • A M E R I C A N G I R L P L A C E • TO P S H O P TO PM A N • S H I N O L A • C O A C H E L I Z A B E T H A N D J A M E S • A P P L E • J.C R E W • J.C R E W M E N S S H O P • A N T H R O P O LO G I E • V I N C E • PA I G E M I C H A E L KO R S • M·A·C C O S M E T I C S • S E P H O R A • B A R N E S & N O B L E • N I KE T H E G R OV E • U G G ® AU S T R A L I A B LU E R I B B O N S U S H I B A R & G R I L L • T H E C H E E S E C A KE FA C TO R Y • S I X OT H E R R E S TAU R A N T S A N D B A R S PA C I F I C T H E AT R E S AT T H E G R OV E • TM Z TO U R T I C KE T S A N D D E PA R T U R E S TO P CO M I N G T H I S FA L L : L A D U R É E

A D J A C E N T T O T H E O R I G I N A L FA R M E R S M A R K E T 1 8 9 T H E G R O V E D R I V E • L O S A N G E L E S • 3 2 3-90 0 -80 80 • T H E G R O V E L A .C O M

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ANGELENO -

Hot cuisines come and go in L.A., but the city’s love of Italian cooking never wavers.

In America, few cuisines are as embraced as Italian. Whether rustic peasant cooking or refined alta cucina, bathed in marinara or blanketed in shaved white truffles, Italian cuisine is as enduringly popular in Los Angeles as it is in Brooklyn or St. Louis.

The Italians Alimento

1710 Silver Lake Blvd., Silver Lake, 323.928.2888

Bestia

2121 7th Place, downtown, 213.514.5724

The Factory Kitchen 1300 Factory Place, downtown, 213.996.6000

Gusto

8432 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.782.1778

Jon & Vinny’s

412 N. Fairfax Ave., L.A., 323.334.3369

Officine Brera 1331 E. 6th St., downtown, 213.553.8006

Sotto

9575 W. Pico Blvd., West L.A., 310.277.0210

Union

37 E. Union St., Pasadena, 626.795.5841

Italian restaurants in L.A. are as varied as Italian cuisine itself, which is in fact a collection of diverse regional cuisines. Some of the chefs contributing to the current renaissance celebrate their personal Italian heritage, while others are native Angelenos adopting the country’s traditions as their own. A few brash chefs take excessive liberties with authenticity, but in a city known for its Korean tacos and masala-spiced chicken wings, experimentation is hardly discouraged. In 2012, chef Ori Menashe and restaurateur Bill Chait pioneered the Arts District dining scene with the opening of Bestia, which remains one of the toughest reservations in L.A. Taking over a long-vacated warehouse, the industrialchic restaurant is warmed by exposed brick and distressed wood, while a copper-topped bar and chandeliers crafted from vintage meat hooks retain a sense of history in the cavernous, boisterous space. Menashe—born in L.A., raised in Israel and a protégé of acclaimed chef Gino Angelini—doesn’t feel confined by rigid doctrine from the Old Country. Slathered on slices of rustic, house-baked bread are veal tartare or a chunky, balsamic vinegar-infused smoked chicken-liver spread, both representing the bold, in-your-face flavors for which Menashe is beloved. Further exemplifying Menashe’s assertive style are pan-seared chicken gizzards with roasted beets in a sherrymustard vinaigrette. Hand-cut saffronscented tagliatelle is coated with a hearty

pork ragù, while sea urchin is tossed with spaghetti and finished with bottarga (pressed tuna roe) and Thai basil. Genevieve Gergis, Menashe’s wife and one of the best pastry chefs in town, offers a seasonal fruit crostata, a bittersweet chocolate tart and maple-ricotta fritters. Closely following Bestia into the Arts District was The Factory Kitchen, a venture of veteran restaurateur Matteo Ferdinandi and former Valentino chef Angelo Auriana. An addictive flatbread called focaccia di Recco precedes fresh pastas infused with herbs and bathed in rustic ragùs. Earlier this year, the same team doubled down on the neighborhood with Officine Brera, housed in a 1920s-era structure on the other side of the Factory Kitchen. Despite a distinctly modern interior of reclaimed wood, exposed steel beams and worn brick, the concept draws inspiration from Milan’s medieval Brera District. A soaring ceiling gives the space enormous volume, but the focal point of the dining room is an elaborate exhibition kitchen ensconced behind a 35-foot-long span of glass. Officine Brera showcases classic recipes of cucina povera, the peasant cooking of the Tuscan countryside along the Po river. Shareable starters include frisceu, fluffy sage-perfumed fritters and a lightly dressed salad of mâche sprinkled with pink peppercorns and presented beneath a translucent sheet of lardo. Gnocchi are bathed in a fonduta of Castelmagno cheese, and an optional shaving of black truffles transforms this

Sotto’s woodfired Neapolitan pizzas. Left: Ori Menashe and Genevieve Gergis

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O -ITALIANO

by ROGER GRODY

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The Classics Some venerable Italian restaurants continue to inspire L.A. diners and young chefs. Here are some of the best:

Officine Brera’s manzo all’olio. Below: Valentino’s seafood pasta

Angelini Osteria »

Drago Centro » Chef Celestino Drago and his brothers operate a collection of restaurants in L.A., but this downtown establishment offers the most sophisticated setting and ambitious cuisine. 525 S. Flower St., downtown, 213.228.8998 Osteria Mozza » From local legend Nancy Silverton and celebrity chef Mario Batali, this is a serious dining room in which to enjoy creative Italian cuisine. 6602 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.297.0100

Pizzeria Mozza »

Much more than a pizzeria, this casual side of the Mozza complex incorporates superb ingredients into a full menu and offers an all-Italian wine list. 641 N. Highland Ave., L.A., 323.297.0101

Il Ristorante di Giorgio Baldi » A

celebrity favorite, this Amalfi Coast-reminiscent eatery specializes in fresh seafood and a romantic vibe. 114 W. Channel Road, Santa Monica, 310.573.1660

Valentino » When it

opened in 1972, this finedining landmark was awash in red sauce and checkered tablecloths. But restaurateur Piero Selvaggio gradually introduced Angelenos to a more refined, upscale Italian cuisine. 3115 Pico Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.829.4313

peasant cooking into pure luxury. From the kitchen’s “line of fire”—consisting of a wood-burning grill, oven and rotisserie—comes a massive wood-roasted pork shank presented vertically in dramatic fashion. Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo are two of the hottest chefs on the L.A. dining scene, parlaying their success at Animal and Son of a Gun into a successful partnership with Ludo Lefebvre at Trois Mec and Petit Trois. The native Floridians’ all-day spot Jon & Vinny’s is a contemporary, irreverent interpretation of an oldschool Italian joint set in a trendily refurbished pizzeria. The young chefs’ own pizza is among the best in L.A., noted for a thin crust with charred, blistered edges. Options range from traditional Margherita to the artsy Flower Child with California-made Crescenza cheese and nasturtium petals. Traditionally themed pastas are made fresh in-house, and a wine store in the rear ensures a list that few pizzerias can rival. Chef Victor Casanova was the chef at Beverly Hills’ swanky, celebrity-teeming Four Seasons Hotel, but the Bronx native yearned for a more intimate and personal expression of his craft. The result is Gusto, an often overlooked collection of white-linen-topped tables where guests begin with soulful pork meatballs plated with chilled whipped ricotta and hearty tomato sauce,

or harissa-spiked grilled octopus. Pastas include classic bucatini carbonara or tiny agnolotti, made fresh on-site, with ricotta and English peas, dappled with lemonbutter sauce. Native Angeleno Zach Pollack got so hooked on Italian cuisine when studying abroad in Italy that his pending architectural degree was swapped out for a cooking career. He, kindred spirit Steve Samson (who dropped out of a medical program to cook) and Steve’s wife, Dina, opened Sotto five years ago, and it remains one of the city’s favorite Italian destinations. After wood-roasted cauliflower and pork meatballs, most Sotto guests delve into some of the best thin-crusted pizzas in town or opt for a deftly crafted risotto with porcini mushrooms and quality Parmigiano-Reggiano. After his success at Sotto, Pollack went solo at Silver Lake’s Alimento, a cramped, casual space where Carrara marble counters are juxtaposed against plywood and banquettes repurposed from salvaged church pews. Taking center stage are the chef’s housemade pastas, such as spelt maccheroncini with wild mushrooms, cavolo nero and egg. A must-order item is Pollack’s “al contrario” take on tortellini en brodo, a dish usually consisting of pasta dumplings swimming in broth. Here the hot liquid is trapped inside the soft pasta shells—they explode in your mouth like some Chinese dumplings—which are plated over a creamy sauce enriched with wild mushrooms and prosciutto. A light but satisfying dessert is the almond polenta cake with macerated berries and whipped cream. Chef Bruce Kalman has a reputation for innovation, but at his intimate Pasadena restaurant, Union, it is his respect for tradition that tends to impress diners the most. Standout dishes include his takes on steamed mussels with guanciale, porchetta and a simple yet seductive plate of spaghetti alla chitarra enhanced with little more than San Marzano tomatoes, garlic and a hint of Fresno chili.

from top: ryan tanaka 2016; ryan forbes. previous spread, from left: sierra prescott; mary costa photography

Chef Gino Angelini, one of the city’s great Italian masters, shows off some soulful dishes at his intimate restaurant, including his grandma Elvira’s lasagna. 7313 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 323.297.0070

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Fall 2016 Exhibitions Free Admission

In Real Life: 100 Days of Film and Performance SEP 2016–JAN 2017

Hammer Projects: Simone Leigh

Hammer Projects: Marwa Arsanios

Hammer Projects: Nicolas Party

SEP 17, 2016–JAN 8, 2017

SEP 30, 2016–FEB 19, 2017

1 MUSEUM 10899 Wilshire Blvd., Los Angeles, CA 90024 | 310-443-7039 | hammer.ucla.edu

Hammer Museum

hammer_museum

TEAPOT AND PURPLE FRUITS, 2016. PASTEL ON CANVAS. 31 1⁄2 × 39 3⁄8 IN. (80 × 100 CM). IMAGE COURTESY OF THE ARTIST; KAUFMANN REPETTO, MILAN/NEW YORK; AND THE MODERN INSTITUTE/TOBY WEBSTER LTD, GLASGOW.

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and Curtain

Los Angeles is dubbed the “Creative Capital of the World” for good reason. Not only is it home to a thriving artistic community, but it’s also replete with arts venues and cultural institutions that present boundary-pushing shows and innovative public programming. Read on to discover some of this season’s freshest artistic offerings, as well as opportunities to explore your own creative side. B y Mar i na K ay

CHAMPIONING ICONS AT THE WALLIS » Through Oct. 16, Beverly Hills’ Wallis Annenberg Center for the Performing Arts upholds its reputation for offering eclectic music, dance and theater programming with its presentation of For the Record: Scorsese—American Crime Requiem, an ode to filmmaker Martin Scorsese. In the genrebending show—part of the buzzy For the Record series—actors move throughout the room and turn the soundtracks of such films as Goodfellas, Casino and The Wolf of Wall Street into immersive theater. The “nightclub” setting, meanwhile, turns audience members

into fellow “patrons,” who, for the first time, can bring drinks into the theater. On Oct. 28, another icon enjoys the spotlight: Carmen de Lavallade, performing her intimate one-woman show As I Remember It. The L.A.-born actress, dancer and choreographer—who is celebrating her 85th birthday— tells the story of her extraordinary life through film, dance and personal writings, dancing a pas de deux with projections of her younger self and entrancing the audience along the way. As de Lavallade says, “Eat your heart out, Beyoncé.” See p. 74 and thewallis.org for more information and to purchase tickets.

CELEBRATING FILM AND DANCE GREATS AT LACMA » LACMA—the biggest museum on the West Coast—houses more than 130,000 objects of art from around the world, but for a new, groundbreaking show, it had to look only as far as Hollywood. Guillermo del Toro: At Home With Monsters, del Toro’s first-ever museum retrospective, provides insights into the lauded filmmaker’s creative process through the exhibition of his collection of oddities. The museum also offers ticketed film screenings, including del Toro’s Cronos ($15, Oct. 21 at 7:30 p.m.) and Pan’s Labyrinth ($15, Oct. 28 at

From top: for the record; © guillermo del toro, photo courtesy insight editions. opposite: Julieta cervantes

Beyond the Canvas

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Choreographer, dancer and actor Carmen de Lavallade, who brings her one-woman show to the Wallis on Oct. 28. Opposite, from top: Actors performing For the Record: Scorsese, at the Wallis through Oct. 16; a spread from one of filmmaker Guillermo del Toroâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s notebooks, on view at LACMA all month

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7:30 p.m.), in the on-site Bing Theater. Dance fans, take note: LACMA joined forces with the Music Center and USC Glorya Kaufman School of Dance for Fall for Forsythe, a monthlong series of performances and events in celebration of multimedia dance artist and choreographer William Forsythe. On Oct. 15 and 16, LACMA presents Site-

open space with more than 50 altars and art installations that honor lost loved ones and express community struggles with education, gang violence and immigration reform. The altars’ unveiling happens at the Noche de Ofrenda ceremony on Oct. 29 from 7-9 p.m., and they are on view through Nov. 5. Visitors can also learn about the holiday’s traditions and artwork during free lunchtime tours. Visit grandparkla.org/downtowndia for more information.

MYSTERIES AT THE NATuraL HISTORY MUSEUM

Specific Forsythe—two dance performances, one of which involves tangled bodies and the other a choreographic challenge—at various locations around the LACMA campus. See p. 77 and lacma.org for more information.

DAY OF THE DEAD IN GRAND PARK » Downtown’s Grand Park is a popular spot for civic gatherings and casual strolls. But in late October, the park (with partner Self Help Graphics & Art) will celebrate Día de los Muertos, or Day of the Dead, by filling its

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» More than just a repository of dinosaur fossils, African mammal dioramas and a Nature Lab filled with rats, tarantulas and a rattlesnake named Obsidian, the Natural History Museum is also a cool spot for sleepovers. The museum celebrates a family-friendly Halloween Oct. 28-29, when kids spend the evening as junior forensic-society members solving the mystery of a missing T. rex bone. A flashlight tour of the spider pavilion, trickor-treat stations and even a dance party are included. Costumes are encouraged. Later, snuggle time happens near those awesome dioramas ($65). The museum hosts adults-only allnighters, too. Oct. 29-30, a night of themed science talks, museum trivia and a secrets and legends tour—helped along by wine, craft beer and a live DJ—is capped by a mid-

night movie screening ($135; 21+). For more information, see p. 78 and nhm.org or email sleepovers@nhm.org.

FAMILY FUN AT THE NORTON SIMON MUSEUM » The Norton Simon Museum in Pasadena is renowned for its significant private art collection, but perhaps lesser known is that it offers an excellent roster of kid-friendly activities. On Oct. 15 from 1:30-3:30 p.m., kids can participate in Sticker Stories, which explores storytelling through the museum’s art. With imaginations on fire, kids use accordion paper, color sticks and stickers to discover how their stories unfold. The activity, designed for families with children ages 4 to 10, is free

From top: A slumber party at the Natural History Museum; a Day of the Dead altar; Diego Rivera’s The Flower Vendor (Girl With Lilies)

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TEATIME AT THE GETTY VILLA » Beyond its galleries filled with Greek and Etruscan antiquities, the Getty Villa in Pacific Palisades hosts afternoon tea in the elegant Founder’s Room Thursdays and Saturdays at 1 p.m. Tea by the Sea, inspired by the villa’s first-century Roman gardens, serves a Mediterranean-inspired menu of savory panini, sweet scones, tea cakes and tarts for $36 per adult, plus tax and gratuity (wine and prosecco are an additional charge). There’s also a special $25 menu for children under 8. Call 800.369.3059 to reserve in advance, or email bonappetitreservations@getty.edu. At 2:30 p.m., also on Thursdays and Saturdays, the villa’s new culinary-inspired garden tour explores the herbs and fruits featured in the Tea by the Sea seasonal menu and explains their meanings in Roman mythology and art. Garden tours are free, but require an advance villa entry ticket (also free; parking is $15). See p. 77 and getty.edu/visit/events/tea for more information.

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MEDITATION AND MAYHEM AT THE HAMMER MUSEUM

ARTBITES AT THE HUNTINGTON LIBRARY

» UCLA and the Hammer Museum have championed new and emerging artists for more than 20 years and continue to lead the charge with In Real Life: 100 Days of Film and Performance, the Hammer’s fall program of free daytime performances and film screenings. The lineup includes Artists’ Film International screenings (Tu-F through Oct. 15) and Jennifer Moon and collaborator laub’s show, At the Edge of Space and Time: Expanding Beyond Our 4% Universe, which takes viewers “on an adventure through the cosmos, the multiverse, and beyond” on Oct. 1-2. Among the museum’s other offerings are free 30-minute Mindful Awareness sessions, led by Diana Winston of the UCLA Mindful Awareness Research Center every Thursday in the Billy Wilder Theater. Visit hammer.ucla.edu for more information.

» The Huntington Library, Art Collections, and Botanical Gardens provides a feast for the senses with its exceptional galleries and gardens, spread over 120 acres in San Marino. On Oct. 8 from 9 a.m.-12:30 p.m., Huntington guests can enjoy a literal feast, too. On the At Home With the Huntingtons tour, led by art educator and chef Maite Gomez-Rejón of ArtBites, tour participants will spend the morning hearing stories about the institution’s founder, Henry Huntington, and his wife, Arabella; visiting the couple’s former home (now the art gallery); and viewing masterpieces from the couple’s art collection—one of the finest in the country. Then they’ll head into the kitchen to cook an elegant meal ($100). See p. 77 and artbites.net/classes/the-huntingtons/ for more information.

Clockwise from top left: A garden at the Getty Villa; treats from the villa’s Tea by the Sea; ArtBites at the Huntington

with admission (free admission for children under 18), and reservations are not required. On Oct. 28 from 6:30-7:30 p.m., there’s also a workshop on papel picado (perforated paper): a Mexican folk art that involves cutting intricate designs into paper. The creations are often used to decorate Day of the Dead celebrations. Diego Rivera’s 1941 artwork The Flower Vendor (Girl With Lilies) provides inspiration during the session. For this activity, recommended for families with children ages 6 to 10, space is limited to 25 participants; sign up at the information desk. Visit p. 78 and nortonsimon.org for more information.

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FIND YOUR

MARINA MOMENT Where living in the moment means paddleboarding to breakfast. Seizing the day can be a mid-morning sailing lesson, parasailing over the marina or cycling to Venice Beach. Embracing an evening is toasting the sunset and dancing under the star-kissed sky on a harbor cruise. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s all here... what will your Marina adventure be? Check out visitmarinadelrey.com or call 310.305.9545 for information. Get connected with Marina del Rey

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EXPLORING

Beverly Hills BEVERLY HILLS IS A LUXURY LOVER’S MECCA: DESIGNER SHOPPING, FINE DINING, MANSIONS. CENTURY CITY, WESTWOOD AND CULVER CITY ARE POCKETS WITH THEIR OWN DRAWS.

➺It’s only 5 square miles, but Beverly Hills looms large in pop culture as a posh locale that boasts some The Mansions

The launch of Beverly Hills’ glamorous reputation dates to the early 20th century, when the then-new Beverly Hills Hotel ushered in a frenzy of movie-star mansionbuilding in the hills north of Sunset Boulevard. Today, the population of 35,000 is more diverse than its depiction on TV and in movies might suggest. Nonetheless, the triumvirate of Beverly Hills, Holmby Hills and Bel-Air still attracts its share of famous residents. Hop on the Beverly Hills Trolley Tour, or book ahead with Starline Tours, to see notable homes in the ‘hood, along with other local landmarks packed into the city’s 5 square miles. Among the more storied and oft-filmed estates nestled in the hills is the 19th-century English Revivalstyle Greystone Mansion, whose graceful city-owned grounds are open for strolling.

Rodeo Drive + Golden Triangle

From Greystone, head west on Sunset Boulevard, then hang on to your wallet as you turn south onto Rodeo Drive. After passing through a tony residential neighborhood, you enter the shopping district known as

the Golden Triangle, bounded by Santa Monica and Wilshire boulevards and Cañon Drive. Burberry, Balenciaga, Fendi and Gucci each recently debuted new or renovated flagships on Rodeo, reminding retailers that 90210 is still the most prestigious ZIP code in the States. Ascend the Italian-esque side street to fine-art destination Galerie Michael and Tiffany & Co., perched atop Two Rodeo. Sip some wine at 208 Rodeo, then pause for the quintessential Beverly Hills snapshot before continuing on to the Beverly Wilshire hotel (of Pretty Woman fame) at the south end of Rodeo Drive. Continuing west, pass Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue and recently revamped Barneys New York, the reigning luxury retail titans along this stretch of Wilshire. At Santa Monica Boulevard, you hit the Beverly Hilton hotel, which rolls out 30,000 square feet of red carpet annually to host the Golden Globe Awards.

The Industry + the Arts

Beverly Hills isn’t all shopping sprees and gated estates: Talent agencies William Morris Endeavor and United Talent Agency are just two of the entertainment businesses based

here. Rub shoulders with the power-lunchers at Thomas Keller’s Bouchon or Wolfgang Puck’s legendary Spago on Cañon, or grab dinner and hear live music at Mastro’s Steakhouse just up the street. The city’s cultural treasure troves include the Paley Center for Media and the Samuel Goldwyn Theater at the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences, both of which hold screenings. There is even more cultural programming at the Wallis Annenberg Center for the Performing Arts, which transformed the historic Beverly Hills Post Office into an entertainment destination.

Century City

Heading west from Beverly Hills on Santa Monica Boulevard, you enter the 0.7-squaremile modern acropolis of Century City. ICM Partners and Creative Artists Agency are located here, as are a Fox Studios lot and countless legal, financial, entertainment and hospitality firms. But those outside the biz won’t be excluded. Past Avenue of the Stars, you hit the upscale Westfield Century City shopping center, which is open for business as it undergoes a dramatic redevelopment.

FROM LEFT: COURTESY BEVERLY HILLS CVB; EDWIN SANTIAGO. OPPOSITE: MATT HARTMAN

of the priciest mansions in L.A. County, not to mention the world’s most recognizable ZIP code. Rodeo Drive, perhaps the world’s most famous shopping street, offers virtually every luxury fashion brand.

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NEW IN TOWN Balenciaga

The European fashion house opens its second U.S. flagship store—its first under the creative direction of Demna Gvasalia. 353 N. Rodeo Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.854.0557

Bobbi Brown

The makeup maven’s first West Coast boutique offers her full line of products, makeup lessons and the limited-edition “Sunset Pink” collection—perfect for creating that SoCal glow. 9497 S. Santa Monica Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.275.4650

Citizen

This “social dining experience” serves seasonal dishes and cocktails in the reworked Spaghettini & the Dave Koz Lounge space. 184 N. Cañon Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.402.5885

Storefronts along North Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills. Opposite, from left: Welcome to Beverly Hills; the Wallis Annenberg Center for the Performing Arts

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The pedestrian-friendly Westwood Village features independent shops and cafés among its Mediterranean Revival and art deco buildings.

Nearby on Constellation Boulevard, epicures are drawn to Tom Colicchio’s Craft and Hinoki & the Bird, inside the towering residential complex the Century. (Candy Spelling claims the top two floors.) The Annenberg Space for Photography displays cutting-edge exhibits of digital and print photography.

UCLA

A few miles northeast of Century City is the University of California, Los Angeles, one of the top public universities in the country. Visitors are welcome at several university attractions, including the Fowler Museum at UCLA and the outdoor Franklin D. Murphy Sculpture Garden on the north campus, the planetarium on the south campus and the 7-acre Mildred E. Mathias Botanical Gardens. The free Hammer Museum is nearby and houses impressionist paintings, as well as cutting-edge contemporary exhibitions. Paid parking is available in UCLA lots and structures throughout the 419-acre campus.

G R E AT F I N D

Westwood Village

Just south of the campus, the pedestrianfriendly Westwood Village features independent shops and cafés among its Mediterranean Revival and art deco buildings, as well as two landmark movie theaters at the intersection of Broxton and Weyburn avenues: the 1936 marquee-wrapped Bruin theater and the Fox theater across the street. Built circa 1931, the Fox is a favorite for movie premieres and thus is prime starspotting territory. Another don’t-miss venue is the award-winning Geffen Playhouse, located on Le Conte Avenue in one of the oldest buildings in Westwood.

Culver City

Covering 5 square miles southeast of Westwood, Culver City boasts a thriving downtown with restaurants including Koreanbarbecue spot Hanjip and modern American restaurant Akasha. The Kirk Douglas Theatre and the Ivy Substation, home to the Actors’

/scents fit for royalty

➺ Beverly Hills’ outpost of Penhaligon’s is a mere sliver of a shop on Rodeo Drive, but step inside, and you’re transported to English gardens, Moroccan souks and beyond. The perfume house dates to 1870, when William Penhaligon, a barber in London’s hammam baths, began parlaying his inspirations into fragrances that impressed the royal court. Since then, luminaries including the Duke of Marlborough (for whom Blenheim Bouquet was created), princesses, supermodels and Hollywood stars have worn Penhaligon’s, which boasts two royal warrants. The house won’t rest on its laurels, however: This year, it released the Greek mythologyinspired Endymion Concentre and Luna, pictured right, sending devotees over the moon. 439 ½ N. Rodeo Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.276.1710, penhaligons.com —S.E.

FROM TOP: MATT HARTMAN; COURTESY PENHALIGON’S

The Culver City station on the Metro Expo Line

Gang, bookend the downtown area and stage live productions throughout the year. Traveling east on Washington Boulevard, don’t miss the sprawling Helms Bakery complex, which contains dozens of high-end furniture showrooms. Moving along Washington, the scene-y Arts District has more than 30 art galleries and exhibition spaces clustered along Washington and La Cienega boulevards. At the intersection of Washington and National boulevards is a stop on the Expo Line, a Metro light rail that, thanks to a recent extension, goes from 7th St./Metro Center all the way to Santa Monica. Hollywood gets all the attention, but it’s Culver City whose seal proclaims it “The Heart of Screenland.” In 1915, Ince/Triangle Studios, today Sony Pictures Studios, opened on Washington. In 1924, the site became Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer Studios. Classics including The Wizard of Oz would eventually be filmed on its movie lots. (News reports of the time indicate that the “Munchkins” partied hard during their stay at the Culver Hotel.) Today, Culver City’s screen culture is still going strong, with 16 soundstages accommodating TV-show and feature-film shoots at Culver Studios and hits such as Wheel of Fortune and Jeopardy! being taped on the historic lots at Sony. Fully experience Culver City’s screen heritage by taking the Sony Pictures Studio Tour. For bold items, see listings in the where guide. For a detailed map of these neighborhoods, see page 76.

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EXPLORING

Santa Monica SANTA MONICA HAS THE APPROACHABLE VIBE OF A BEACH TOWN WITH THE ATTRACTIONS OF A MAJOR CITY. MALIBU, VENICE AND MARINA DEL REY ARE APPEALING OPTIONS NEARBY.

➺In the 1800s, orator Tom Fitch called Santa Monica “the Zenith City by the Sunset Sea.” The 21st-century

version of Santa Monica fulfills its early promise, with a bustling downtown and beach that attract millions of visitors per year. Pacific Coast Highway connects SaMo with draws such as Malibu and Marina del Rey. Third Street Promenade, three pedestrianonly blocks on 3rd Street between Broadway and Wilshire Boulevard, is perpetually teeming with people. Visitors can hit dozens of boutiques, watch movies at three cinemas and gawk at the myriad street artists. If they don’t refuel at the many eateries along the Promenade, visitors can venture to the surrounding blocks to Mercado or the Misfit and enjoy drinks at the Bungalow or the many pubs, such as Ye Olde King’s Head, that hint at Santa Monica’s large population of British expats. Anchoring the promenade at Broadway is Santa Monica Place, a beautiful open-air shopping center with Nordstrom, Bloomingdale’s, 80 boutiques, ArcLight Cinemas and the top-level Dining Deck. Steps away is the new western terminus of the Metro Expo Line, which connects Santa Monica by light rail to downtown Los Angeles. Santa Monica Pier, built in 1909, is at the end of Colorado Avenue and features Pacific Park, a mini amusement park with food stands and rides, including a solar-powered, LED-lit Ferris wheel.

Main Street + Montana Avenue

Compared with the hustle and bustle of Third Street Promenade, Montana Avenue is downright tranquil. Between 6th and 17th streets are plenty of fashionable boutiques and beauty destinations, including Moondance, Clare V., new Olive & June nail salon and Malin + Goetz. Father’s Office is known for its burgers, Ox & Son is tops for “oystas,” and Sweet Lady Jane is famous for its cakes. Just minutes south of downtown Santa Monica, Main Street exudes a beachy, upscale vibe. The long stretch between Pico Boulevard and Rose Avenue contains a number of galleries, pubs, coffeehouses and restaurants, plus shops such as Lost & Found and Planet Blue. The California Heritage Museum is in a transplanted Victorian-era home, as is the Victorian, adjacent to the museum, which features a cool downstairs speakeasy, Basement Tavern.

The Arts

Visitors can take in plays at Main Street’s Edgemar Center for the Arts, housed in an angular concrete structure designed by Frank

Gehry. An even wider variety of entertainment is at the Broad Stage, Santa Monica College’s first-rate, 499-seat performingarts, film, dance and theater venue. On Michigan Avenue, the Bergamot Station arts center—now a stop on the Expo Line—has emerged as a hub for L.A.’s creative community. It’s home to some 30 galleries and a café.

Malibu

A few miles north of Santa Monica on Pacific Coast Highway is Malibu. Formerly known as Rancho Malibu, Malibu’s land was once so coveted that May K. Rindge, who took ownership of it in 1905 after the death of her scion husband, used armed guards to defend it from trespassers. In the 1920s, Rindge’s hefty legal bills, racked up from fighting developers, forced her to invite stars to live in Malibu Colony in the 1920s, and the legacy of Malibu as celebrity-home central continues today. Many of Malibu’s best destinations are visible from PCH, including renowned restaurants with ocean views, from the casual (Malibu Seafood) to the upscale (Nobu Malibu). Adjacent to the Malibu Lagoon and

TOP LEFT AND OPPOSITE: DALE BERMAN

Third Street + the Pier

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NEW IN TOWN Dogeared

The Culver City-based jewelry brand marks its 25th anniversary by opening its first-ever store, where you can shop for free-spirited, American-made designs, including store exclusives. 2909 Main St., Santa Monica, 310.396.9538

Flower Child

This all-day fast-casual spot from the founder of True Food Kitchen serves up healthy, organic meals in a hippie-chic setting. 1332 2nd St., Santa Monica, 310.382.2901

The Now

The fashionable—and affordable—massage boutique brings its Tulum, Mexico, vibes to the beach town. 2407 Main St., Santa Monica, 310.310.2914

. The Getty Center in Brentwood. Opposite, from left: Third Street Promenade in Santa Monica; Santa Monica State Beach

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Malibu’s land was once so coveted that heiress May K. Rindge, who took ownership of it in 1905, used armed guards to defend it from trespassers.

up, thanks to the emergence of hot restaurants such as reborn Rose Café-Restaurant, plus a smattering of hip shops. Visitors strolling Ocean Front Walk get an eyeful, between the performers, the vendors and the Muscle Beach bodybuilders.

Brentwood

Bird Sanctuary, the Adamson House is filled with historic tile. The celebrity-frequented Malibu Country Mart serves as the area’s town square. Together with the adjacent Malibu Village and Malibu Lumber Yard, there are plenty of shops and restaurants for whiling away an afternoon. Inland, nearing Calabasas, is wine country, where you can sample the local vino at tasting rooms such as Malibu Wines.

Topanga + Pacific Palisades

In the 1960s, hippies and musicians such as Neil Young hid out in idyllic Topanga, accessible by Topanga Canyon Boulevard from Pacific Coast Highway. Removed from urban activity, it retains its bohemian vibe and independently owned businesses. Hiking trails allow visitors to bask in Topanga’s woodsy beauty, and restaurants such as Inn of the Seventh Ray accommodate creekside dining. There’s more than initially meets the eye in seemingly sleepy, family-friendly Pacific

G R E AT F I N D

Palisades, south of Topanga on PCH and accessed from Temescal Canyon Road. Hikers love the shady trails in Temescal Gateway Park, and cafés and upscale momand-pop shops can be found between Via de la Paz and Monument Street near Sunset Boulevard. The Self-Realization Fellowship Lake Shrine on Sunset is a 10-acre oasis with a lush garden and koi- and swan-filled lake. The crown jewel of the Palisades is the Getty Villa. Styled as a Julius Caesar-era villa, it’s filled with Greco-Roman antiquities.

Venice

Abbot Kinney won in a coin toss the land that would become Venice. He sought to develop it as an American version of the Italian city; the canals are still there, lined with multimillion-dollar bungalows. His namesake Abbot Kinney Boulevard is Venice’s coolest section, where Gjelina, Intelligentsia Coffee & Tea and boutiques such as Heist and Huset are the main attractions. Rose Avenue is also coming

/ meet your matcha

➺ Matcha: The nutrient-rich powdered tea leaves have all of L.A. going green. Enter Shuhari Matcha Café, which recently popped up on Venice’s hippest thoroughfare. With a name that combines respect for traditional tea ceremonies with the energy of modern life, Shuhari offers an expertly curated selection of fine green teas from Japan and complements its drink offerings with matcha everything. Pair your matcha kinako black sugar latte or sparkling pineapple matcha with inventive sliders or a variety of toasted bread rolls. For dessert, a matcha or nutty black sesame ice-cream sundae should hit the spot. You can even buy your own matcha and tea paraphernalia in the front of the shop to re-create the Zen experience at home. 1522 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 424.238.8324, shuharicafe.com —G.G.

Marina del Rey

Marina del Rey’s main attraction is the marina, the largest man-made small-craft harbor in the world. Restaurants such as Cast & Plow and Cafe del Rey are positioned to take advantage of the views, and at the New England-style Fisherman’s Village, boat-rental and cruise companies such as Hornblower offer visitors myriad ways to get out on the water. For bold items, see listings in the where guide. For a detailed map of these neighborhoods, see page 76.

FROM TOP: ANGELA DECENZO; @COMOANDTHECITY, COURTESY SHUHARI

Skateboarders take a break at Venice Beach.

Marilyn Monroe once called this enclave northeast of Santa Monica home; it remains a favorite stamping ground of the affluent and famous. San Vicente Boulevard functions as the neighborhood’s main street, with copious independent shops, bakeries, cafés and restaurants. The petite Brentwood Country Mart, a unique open-air shopping center built in 1948, keeps retail offerings contemporary and upscale. The area’s biggest draw is the Getty Center, the hilltop museum that houses J. Paul Getty’s spectacular art collection.

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MEMORIES MADE FRESH DAILY FROM AN 82 YEAR–OLD FAMILY RECIPE.

LOS ANGELES’ FAVORITE SHOPPING & DINING DESTINATION SINCE 1934

6333 W. THIRD ST. • LOS ANGELES 323.933.9211 • FARMERSMARKETLA.COM #FARMERSMARKETLA Insta

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Every day, The Original Farmers Market delivers exceptional shopping, fresh food and fond memories. Conveniently located in the heart of Los Angeles, this historic landmark features open-air ambiance and an eclectic mix of over 100 specialty shops, artisan grocers, and world-class restaurants—many of which are still owned and operated by generations-old family merchants. We invite you to visit one of the city’s most iconic destinations, re-created daily with the timeless ingredients of family, friends and fun.

8/16/16 4:44 PM

EXPLORING

West Hollywood TRENDS IN FASHION, DESIGN AND FOOD OFTEN BEGIN IN L.A., AND MANY OF THOSE INNOVATIONS CAN BE TRACED TO THE PIONEERING COMMUNITY OF WEST HOLLYWOOD.

➺For a municipality measuring less than 2 square miles and with fewer than 35,000 residents, West

Hollywood wields enormous influence over the L.A. lifestyle. With a number of world-class art galleries, boutiques, restaurants, nightclubs and theaters, it’s a frequent destination for locals and tourists alike. After dark, this iconic stretch of Sunset Boulevard between Doheny Drive and Crescent Heights Avenue becomes the hottest stretch of asphalt in L.A. County. The club scene here rocks with legendary establishments like the Roxy, the Whisky a Go Go and the Viper Room, which have a long history of hosting performances by rock ‘n’ roll’s finest. Other Sunset Strip nightclubs include Rock & Reilly’s and newer 1 OAK. The Comedy Store continues to showcase the leading names in stand-up, as well as emerging stars. During the day, boutiques such as beloved Book Soup draw traffic. Hotels are an integral part of the Sunset Strip scene. Chateau Marmont, a glorious and notorious celebrity hangout throughout the decades, remains a discreet local getaway. Skybar, at the style-conscious Mondrian, retains its aura of exclusivity. At the Sunset Tower Hotel, Bugsy Siegel’s former suite has been converted into the Tower Bar.

Sunset Plaza

Sunset Plaza, between La Cienega and San Vicente boulevards on Sunset Boulevard, is a

collection of tony shops and bistros with an international flavor and free parking—a novelty in this neighborhood. This is the city’s Euro Zone, where you’re apt to hear more French and Italian than Valley Girl. For up-to-the-minute fashion, check out Wildfox, Zadig & Voltaire or either of the two H. Lorenzo shops. Pamper yourself with a facial at Ole Henriksen Face/Body Spa, a mani-pedi at Jessica—The Clinic, a blowout at Drybar or a makeover at Blushington.

Melrose Avenue

Melrose Avenue has become virtually synonymous with trendiness, and new expressions in fashion, art and food continue to percolate up and down this street that has multiple personalities. One stretch of Melrose, east of Fairfax Avenue, has a mix of indie boutiques, cafés, tattoo parlors and vintage shops. Stores such as Wasteland have wild facades and vibrant signage that add energy to the scene. Farther west, Melrose becomes très sophistiqué, showcasing upscale tastes at Ron Herman, Assembly, Kelly Wearstler and Vivienne Westwood. Just off Melrose is the fashionable three-

block stretch of Melrose Place, where Bentleys line up for chic salons such as Nine Zero One and such cutting-edge boutiques as Irene Neuwirth, Isabel Marant, the Apartment by the Line and Violet Grey.

West Hollywood Design District

Melrose Avenue’s flourishing art, fashion and design district runs along the pedestrian-friendly retail corridors of Melrose and Beverly and Robertson boulevards. Among its newer offerings are a Helmut Lang flagship and RH: the Gallery on Melrose Avenue. The district’s hub is the Pacific Design Center complex—monolithic blue, green and red buildings designed by celebrated architect Cesar Pelli—which houses more than 130 showrooms catering to professional designers and luxury-home owners and is home to a satellite of downtown’s Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCA) and a stylish Wolfgang Puck eatery, Red Seven.

Beverly + West 3rd

Beverly Boulevard and West 3rd Street, major east-west streets running through West Hollywood, are filled with restaurants,

DALE BERMAN (2). OPPOSITE: DAVE LAURIDSEN

Sunset Strip

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NEW IN TOWN Mardi

Palihouse’s new restaurant serves up family-style dishes and garden-party vibes. 8465 Holloway Drive, West Hollywood, 323.656.4020

Raquel Allegra

The L.A. designer’s first retail store carries her signature breezy tie-dye and textured pieces. 8372 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.433.4245

Vanessa Seward

Browse the Parisbased fashion vet’s ‘70s-inspired styles at her first U.S. boutique, steps from fellow Melrose Place newcomers Cotton Citizen, Rachel Comey and Moon Juice. 8407 Melrose Place, L.A., 323.230.6662

Chris Burden’s installation Urban Light at the Los Angeles County Museum of Art. Opposite, from left: Farmers Market; Topshop at the Grove

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W sho a st m sho

One of the Fairfax District’s anchors is the Original Farmers Market, established in 1934, with more than 100 produce stalls, shops and eateries.

design showrooms and boutiques from some of the hottest up-and-coming clothing designers. The two streets bracket the landmark eight-level Beverly Center, which is undergoing a multimillion-dollar renovation. Bloomingdale’s, Fendi, Gucci, Salvatore Ferragamo, Uniqlo, Sandro and Jimmy Choo boutiques are among the center’s more than 160 establishments. On West 3rd Street east of Beverly Center, you’ll find favorite boutiques such as Flight 001 for stylish travel supplies, OK for designminded gifts, Pyrrha for handcrafted jewelry and Wittmore for contemporary menswear. Great dining options include Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo’s seafood spot, Son of a Gun, and Vic Casanova’s two Italian concepts, Gusto and Pistola. On Beverly Boulevard, you can shop for high-end home decor and accessories at Garde and fragrances at Eric Buterbaugh Florals, dine on Frenchinspired California dishes at Terrine and finish with a sweet treat from Cake Monkey.

G R E AT F I N D

Robertson Boulevard

Robertson Boulevard, once a paparazzi magnet, is still home to shops that appeal to tourists and the modish set. Hit Chaser for vintage-inspired T-shirts, Jovani for special-occasion dresses and new Kitross, from the founder of now-defunct Kitson, for L.A.-inspired gifts. A cutting-edge Chanel concept store illustrates the difference between Robertson Boulevard and more staid Rodeo Drive. For a breather between boutique-hopping, consider a cocktail with crab cakes on the picket-fenced patio of Ivy restaurant, legendary for its celebrity clientele. Cecconi’s, just off Robertson, is also popular for power lunches.

Fairfax and Mid-Wilshire

L.A.’s Fairfax District and neighboring MidWilshire are among the most culturally diverse neighborhoods in the Mid-City/ West Hollywood area. At Fairfax Avenue and Wilshire Boulevard is the Los Angeles

/ nailed it

Jessica Vartoughian opened a Beverly Hills natural-nail-care oasis in 1969, she helped to usher in a new era of nails-only salons—as well as the era of the celebrity manicurist. Thanks to her pioneering “nail cultivation system,” Vartoughian won the loyalty of luminaries including Lucille Ball, Barbra Streisand and Nancy Reagan, who received biweekly manicures in the White House. Today, “The First Lady of Nails” oversees a nail-product empire as well as the celebritybeloved Jessica—The Clinic on Sunset Boulevard, which is freshly polished and still delivering beautiful natural nails and manicures that last and last. There might be a nail salon on every corner these days, but only one can call itself the original. 8627 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.659.9292, jessicatheclinic.com —S.E.

LA CIENEGA BOULEVARD

➺ When

FROM TOP: COURTESY THE ROW; COURTESY JESSICA—THE CLINIC

The Row on Melrose Place, one of Los Angeles’ most exclusive shopping areas

County Museum of Art (LACMA), a renowned facility with more than 100,000 works dating from the ancient period to today. Adjacent to LACMA is the famous La Brea Tar Pits and Museum, where the ice age comes alive. Additional venues on this Museum Row include the newly renovated Petersen Automotive Museum and the Craft & Folk Art Museum. South of the museums is a surprise for curious foodies: a neighborhood known as Little Ethiopia, where acclaimed traditional restaurants are located. To the museums’ east is the burgeoning District La Brea, a walkable stretch filled with hot restaurants like Odys + Penelope and hip boutiques including American Rag Cie and A+R. One of the Fairfax District’s anchors is the Original Farmers Market, established in 1934, with more than 100 produce stalls, shops and eateries. There are spots to satisfy virtually any craving, including a wine bar, a taqueria and stands with authentic Louisiana gumbo. Adjacent and connected by a vintage trolley is The Grove, an outdoor, pedestrianonly shopping center. The Grove has the character of an old-fashioned village square, with stained-glass streetlamps and a central fountain. Nordstrom, a movie theater and stores such as American Girl Place, Apple, Paige and the first-ever Elizabeth and James boutique are joined by myriad restaurants including Blue Ribbon Sushi Bar & Grill. For bold items, see listings in the where guide. For a detailed map of these neighborhoods, see pages 76-77.

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3rdStree

With over 75 destination shops, acclaimed restaurants and independent specialty stores West 3rd Street is the most walkable dining and shopping district in the center of Los Angeles.

Comprised of six connecting blocks between La Cienega Boulevard and Fairfax Avenue, West 3rd Street is just moments from The Grove, The Original Farmers Market, The Beverly Center and The Los Angeles County Museum of Art (LACMA).

A WALKABLE DINING & SHOPPING DISTRICT “Between La Cienega and Fairfax”

@WESTTHIRDSTREET

www.west3rdstreet.com

WOMEN Alexis Bittar . . . . . . . . . . .C August . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . E Bead Boutique . . . . . . . . E 3 Bedhead Pajamas . .C Elaine Kim . . . . . . . . . . . .C Entre Nous . . . . . . . . . . . P KFK Jewelers . . . . . . . . . E Library . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . P M. Cohen Designs. . . . Q Mom’s the Word . . . . . . U Monserat De Lucca . . . . P noodle stories . . . . . . . . . E Polkadots & Moonbeams . . . . . .C 2 Pyrrha . . . . . . . . . . . . . E Ragdoll LA . . . . . . . . . . . . P Shopaholic Sample Sales . . . . . . . . . . . . . . T William B.+ Friends . . . Q

WITTMORE

PYRRHA

BEDHEAD PAJAMAS

8236 West 3rd Street Los Angeles, CA 90048 (323) 782-9791 shopwittmore.com

8315 West 3rd Street Los Angeles, CA 90048 (323) 424-4807 pyrrha.com

8336 West 3rd Street Los Angeles, CA 90048 (323) 653-8336 bedheadpjs.com

HOME & GIFTS Aero Shade Co Inc . . . . P Allan Jeffries Framing . . E Area . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . E Craft in America Center . . . . . . . . . . . . B Flight 001. . . . . . . . . . . . . E Freehand Gallery . . . . . . B M. Cohen Designs. . . . Q Michael Hittleman Gallery . . . . . . . . . . . . B New Stone Age . . . . . . . B Plastica . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . B Portola Paints & Glazes . G 2 Pyrrha . . . . . . . . . . . . . E Vintageweave Interiors. U MEN Douglas Fir . . . . . . . . . . . E Duncan Quinn . . . . . . . . R Concept 83661/2 . . . . Q 2 Pyrrha . . . . . . . . . . . . . E 1 Wittmore . . . . . . . . . . R KIDS Eggy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C Youth Academy of Dramatic Arts . . . . . . J

BLUE PLATE OYSTERETTE

THE ORLANDO HOTEL

DAN DEUTSCH OPTICAL OUTLOOK

8048 West 3rd Street Los Angeles, CA 90048 (323) 656-5474 blueplatewest3rd.com

8384 West 3rd Street Los Angeles, CA 90048 (800) 624-6835 theorlando.com

8358 West 3rd Street Los Angeles, CA 90048 (323) 658-6181 dandeutschopticaloutlook.com

OPTICAL 6 Dan Deutsch Optical Outlook. . . Q Gogosha Optique . . . . . R Optical Sphere . . . . . . . . T SERVICES Grandpoint Bank . . . . . . N Mercer Vine Real Estate . . . . . . . . S 5 Orlando Hotel . . . . . Q uBreakiFix . . . . . . . . . . . Q Zulu Tattoo . . . . . . . . . . . J FOOD & DRINK Belcampo Meat Co. . . . K Berri’s Cafe on Third . . . P 4 Blue Plate Oysterette . . . . . . . . T Carmela Ice Cream. . . . U The Churchill . . . . . . . . Q Juice Served Here. . . . Q Doughboys Cafe & Bakery . . . . . . . . . . S El Carmen . . . . . . . . . . . . S Electric Karma . . . . . . . . R Goal Sports Cafe . . . . . Q Gusto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . P Joan’s on Third . . . . . . Q Kreation Organic . . . . . . P The Little Door . . . . . . . . S The Little Next Door . . . S Magnolia Bakery. . . . . . .C Mainland Poke . . . . . . . Q Mama’s Secret Bakery & Cafe . . . . . . . . . . . Q Matcha Box . . . . . . . . . . . T Mercado . . . . . . . . . . . . . U Pistola . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . T Quality Food & Beverage . . . . . . . . T Simplethings Restaurant . . . . . . . . Q Sockerbit . . . . . . . . . . . . U Son of a Gun . . . . . . . . . Q Sweet E’s Bakery . . . . . .G Sweetgreen . . . . . . . . . . K Toca Madera . . . . . . . . . . P Verve Coffee Roasters . K

FA I R FA X AV E N U E

FITNESS AIR - Aerial Fitness . . . . . P AuraCycle . . . . . . . . . . . . F The Bar Method . . . . . . . P Swerve Studio. . . . . . . . . R

H AY W O R T H AV E N U E

EDINBURGH AVENUE

LAUREL AVENUE

S TRE ET

CRESCENT HEIGHTS BOULEVARD

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KILKEA DRIVE

LA JOLLA AVENUE

W EST 3R D

HARPER AVENUE

E F 2

SWEETZER AVENUE

FLORES STREET

KINGS ROAD

ORLANDO AVENUE

CROFT AVENUE

LA CIENEGA BOULEVARD

BEAUTY Aesop . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Q Benefit Cosmetics . . . . .C Blow Me Away Blow Dry Bar . . . . . . . . . . . .G Clark Nova Salon . . . . . . S Drybar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C Face Haus . . . . . . . . . . . .C Glamour Beauty Center . . . . . . . . . . . Q Murad. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G SkinSense Wellness Spa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . P

BEAUTY (cont.) Spoke & Weal . . . . . . . . .G Stript Wax Bar . . . . . . . . . R Taboo Hair Care . . . . . . . P Uvasun . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . R Lionel Renard . . . . . . . . . J

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EXPLORING

Hollywood HOLLYWOOD IS IN THE MIDST OF A NEW GOLDEN AGE, AND ITS HIP, UP-AND-COMING NEIGHBORS LOS FELIZ, SILVER LAKE AND ECHO PARK SHARE IN THE LIMELIGHT.

➺“Hollywood is a state of mind” was a popular refrain when this part of Los Angeles was experiencing Hollywood & Highland

Hollywood & Highland has been a catalyst for the rebirth of Hollywood Boulevard. Its Dolby Theatre is the home of the Academy Awards, and the central Babylon Court frames views of the iconic Hollywood sign (built in 1923 to advertise a housing development, the 45-foot-high letters originally read “Hollywoodland”). Other draws include Ohm nightclub, dining spots and shops such as Sweet! candy store and Louis Vuitton. Next door to Hollywood & Highland is the TCL Chinese Theatre (formerly Grauman’s Chinese Theatre), famous for its celebrity hand- and footprints embedded in the concrete out front.

Showtime

Just across the street from Hollywood & Highland is the ornate, lavishly illuminated El Capitan Theatre. Masterfully restored by Disney, it offers special presentations of the studio’s releases, combined with performances using an antique Wurlitzer pipe organ and children-pleasing stage shows. Jimmy Kimmel Live! tapes in an ABC studio next door. The Egyptian Theatre—built in 1922 around the time that King Tut’s tomb

was discovered—screens eclectic artsy and classic fare. The landmark Pantages Theatre has staged megahit musicals including The Book of Mormon and Wicked, and the Hollywood Palladium has a rich history of showcasing top-notch musicians.

Walk of Fame

The sidewalks along 15 blocks of Hollywood Boulevard (La Brea Avenue to Gower Street) and three blocks of Vine Street (Yucca Street to Sunset Boulevard) are inlaid with the legendary brass-and-terrazzo stars honoring celebrities from the entertainment industry. More than 2,400 stars are enshrined beneath tourists’ feet, but the roster is not without its quirks—Pee-wee Herman has one, but Clint Eastwood doesn’t. Marilyn Monroe’s star is steps from Hollywood & Highland, and John Lennon’s is in front of the Capitol Records Building, the landmark structure designed to resemble a stack of records.

Museums, Hollywood-style

Hollywood has museums, but don’t expect to encounter Picasso or Monet. Next to TCL Chinese Theatre is Madame Tussauds

Hollywood, filled with more than 100 wax figures ranging from legends like Clark Gable to contemporary stars including Taylor Swift. You can ponder some zany accomplishments at the Guinness World Record Museum, while the Ripley’s Believe It or Not! Odditorium offers bizarre exhibitions. Movie buffs head to the Hollywood Museum in the historic Max Factor Building, which displays 10,000 artifacts showcasing 100 years of showbiz history, including Indiana Jones’ whip, a costume worn by Leonardo DiCaprio and the honeymoon dress worn by Marilyn Monroe after she married Joe DiMaggio.

Around Vine

The storied intersection of Hollywood Boulevard and Vine Street, the epicenter of the Hollywood Walk of Fame, boasted a large concentration of entertainment-industry companies in the 1920s. It’s a different Hollywood today, but the magic of this location endures in the soaring W Hollywood Hotel & Residences, which boasts Delphine brasserie. A Metro station is integrated into the hotel; Hollywood is particularly well served by mass transit. Across the street is boutique hotel the

FROM LEFT: LISA ROMEREIN; DALE BERMAN. OPPOSITE: EDWIN SANTIAGO

a decline not long ago. But with hot new boutiques, restaurants, hotels and condos sprouting up, it has re-emerged as a bona fide destination, and waves of international visitors mingle with colorful locals.

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NEW IN TOWN

Eckhaus Latta

The edgy, artsy fashion brand’s first boutique doubles as a gallery and clubhouse. Plus, the store’s backyard plays host to live music. 5204 Fountain Ave., L.A., 323.905.2882

Gwen

Maude chef Curtis Stone and brother Luke’s new restaurant—named after their maternal grandmother—features meat-centric tasting menus and an in-house butcher shop. 6600 Sunset Blvd., L.A., 323.946.7513

Sawyer

Restaurateur Beau Laughlin’s sunny new spot serves up seafood staples in Silver Lake. 3709 W. Sunset Blvd., L.A., 323.641.3709

Hollywood Pantages Theatre. Opposite, from left: Eclectic gifts at Wacko/Soap Plant in Los Feliz; performers and onlookers on the Hollywood Walk of Fame

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Among the largest urban parks in America, sprawling Griffith Park is an ideal place to hike, picnic, golf, ride horses and more.

Redbury and its stylish Middle Eastern restaurant, Cleo, and bar, the Library. Sunset Boulevard and Vine is in transition, but dance clubs and eateries give this corner plenty of character. Serious cinephiles catch their flicks at ArcLight Cinemas, where it’s easy to spot a celeb. Close by is Amoeba Music, where music fans and collectors browse the aisles through 31,000 square feet of space packed with rare vinyl records, CDs and memorabilia. A couple of blocks west is the stylish minicomplex Space 15 Twenty, catering to shoppers well into the evening. The center is anchored by a supersize Urban Outfitters and complemented by cool boutiques.

Nightcrawling

The revival of Hollywood has only enhanced its nightlife opportunities, and a lively barand-club scene permeates the district. On Hollywood Boulevard, you can party under the guise of literary advancement at library-

G R E AT F I N D

themed Hemingway’s, drink and dine at Houston Hospitality hot spot No Vacancy, and attempt to get past the velvet ropes at nightclubs like Playhouse and Project Club LA. Cahuenga Boulevard also is home to dozens of clubs and eateries including chef Brendan Collins’ excellent Birch. Quintessentially L.A. but a galaxy removed from Hollywood Boulevard is the Hollywood Bowl, the largest outdoor amphitheater in the U.S., where the Los Angeles Philharmonic takes up residence from June to September. Picnicking under the stars here is among the most memorable experiences in L.A.

Los Feliz + Silver Lake

These neighborhoods are among the hippest in the county. Vermont Avenue, the main drag in Los Feliz, presents a collection of shops and restaurants that range from bohemian to chic. Skylight Books and 24/7 diner Fred 62 are popular hangouts. Lounges such as Rockwell represent the neighborhood’s

/ breaking up is hard to do

➺ Occupying a former Frederick’s of Hollywood lingerie store, The Museum of

Broken Relationships (a branch of the original in Zagreb, Croatia) brings a justcan’t-look-away collection of love and loss—and hope—to the heart of Hollywood. Souvenirs and mementos representing relationships of all kinds, submitted by anonymous brokenhearted donors, are displayed simply with explanations that include beginning and end dates, written as if on a gravestone. You’ll find the expected soft toys, poems and love notes, but also contact lenses, a coffee cup, a door key, a dinosaur piñata, an unworn dress, fake breasts and other objects both intimate and ordinary. Each item has its own story, and you’ll end up fascinated by (and maybe even relating to) every one of them. 6751 Hollywood Blvd., L.A., brokenships.la —J.B.

Griffith Park

Among the largest urban parks in America, Griffith Park is an ideal place to hike, take a train ride, picnic, golf and more. The Charlie Turner Trailhead begins at Griffith Observatory, one of the great planetariums in the world and a frequent film location. The hike up Mount Hollywood provides views of the Hollywood sign, and the Greek Theatre, a 5,700-seat amphitheater, is a legendary music venue. Also here are the Los Angeles Zoo and Botanical Gardens and the Western-heritage-oriented Autry Museum of the American West, both accessible from the Ventura (SR 134) or Golden State (I-5) freeways. For bold items, see listings in the where guide. For a detailed map of these neighborhoods, see pages 76-77.

FROM TOP: DALE BERMAN; COURTESY MOBR

Visitors ride a miniature train on the Griffith Park & Southern Railroad.

increasing sophistication. Nearby, a stretch of Hollywood Boulevard houses cult-favorite gift shop/gallery Wacko and hip Bar Covell, and Barnsdall Art Park offers recreational opportunities including tours of Frank Lloyd Wright’s recently restored Hollyhock House. At Sunset Junction, where Sunset and Santa Monica boulevards intersect, Los Feliz transitions into Silver Lake. Foodies hang at casual Forage or the Cheese Store of Silverlake, while aspiring screenwriters hammer at their laptops and sip lattes at Intelligentsia Coffee & Tea. Farther east on Sunset Boulevard, cool beach gear at Mollusk Surf Shop and chic handbags at the Clare V. flagship beckon.

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EXPLORING

Downtown L.A.’S URBAN CENTER REFLECTS THE CULTURAL DIVERSITY, WORLD-CLASS ARCHITECTURE AND DYNAMIC COMMERCE THAT MAKE THE CITY A SUPERSTAR ON THE GLOBAL STAGE.

➺Downtown Los Angeles could not be hotter, with new restaurants and shops opening daily. Historic art

deco structures share the streetscape with glass-clad towers, and even movie stars are snapping up lofts in century-old buildings. The arts scene roars to life here, where the image of L.A. as “laid-back” hardly applies. Union Station was the last of the grand railroad terminals built in the U.S. Its importance faded as the automobile began to dominate life in L.A., but the 77-year-old station has staged a comeback, thanks to a renovation and downtown’s new energy. From the station—the hub of the Metro system—you can board the Red Line to Hollywood and the San Fernando Valley or connect to the Blue Line to Long Beach or Expo Line to Santa Monica. The Gold Line runs to Pasadena. Nonstop bus service to LAX is available 24/7. Metrolink commuter trains connect distant suburbs, and Amtrak trains offer coastal journeys.

Grand Avenue + Music Center

The heart of L.A.’s performing-arts scene and the site of its most dramatic architecture, Grand Avenue is beginning to live up to its name. On Bunker Hill, once filled with Victorian mansions, four venues make up a formidable collection of stages at the Music Center. The Dorothy Chandler Pavilion is home to L.A. Opera, and the Ahmanson Theatre and the Mark Taper Forum host theatrical productions. The flashiest venue is architect

Frank Gehry’s lauded Walt Disney Concert Hall, winter home of the Los Angeles Philharmonic, led by its vivacious music director, Gustavo Dudamel. Also housed at Disney Hall is REDCAT, which offers visual, performing and multimedia arts programming. After a show, take a stroll through the 12-acre Grand Park, between Grand Avenue and Hill Street and 1st and Temple streets.

Descending Bunker Hill

Steps from the Ahmanson is the Cathedral of Our Lady of the Angels, designed by Spanish architect José Rafael Moneo. A short walk south on Grand is the Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCA), and across from it is The Broad museum, built by philanthropists Eli and Edythe Broad. Both house premier collections of contemporary art. The Omni Hotel and California Plaza are adjacent to MOCA; nearby Angels Knoll is a welcome patch of greenery. Angels Flight, a vintage funicular (now dormant) that climbs to California Plaza from Hill Street below, is billed as “The Shortest Railway in the World.” At the foot of the hill, the Bunker Hill Steps rise five stories at the

U.S. Bank Tower, the tallest building west of the Mississippi. Across the street is the art deco-style Central Library.

Olvera Street

The origin of the city of Los Angeles, dating back to 1781, is El Pueblo de Los Angeles, a collection of 27 buildings along festive pedestrian concourse Olvera Street. The city’s oldest building, Avila Adobe (circa 1818), is located here, along with Mexican restaurants, mariachi bands and merchants offering arts and crafts. A few blocks away is the city’s oldest restaurant, Philippe the Original (1908), where a cup of joe is just 49 cents.

Historic Districts

Undergoing a renaissance is the Broadway Theatre District, home to once-opulent movie palaces. Several, such as the United Artists theater (now the stylish Theatre at Ace Hotel), have been revived or restored to their original grandeur. Cool shops such as Acne Studios and new BNKR lend cachet to the area. The Bradbury Building, built in 1893 in the Italian Renaissance Revival style, was featured in the film Blade Runner.

FROM LEFT: MATT HARTMAN; LISA ROMEREIN. OPPOSITE: DALE BERMAN

Union Station

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NEW IN TOWN Benjamin Arts District

Benjamin Mohapi (of WeHo’s Benjamin With Negin Zand) opens a luxe new salon, with retail offerings curated by Selects Beauty. 300 S. Santa Fe Ave., downtown, 424.249.3296

OUE Skyspace Los Angeles

Take in unbeatable 360-degree city views from the U.S. Bank Tower at the tallest open-air observation deck in the West. 633 W. 5th St., downtown, 213.894.9000

Pocket Square Clothing

The dapper men’s brand’s new flagship carries stylish accessories from some 20 L.A.based designers. 205 W. 7th St., downtown, 213.375.5111

K.G. Louie Co.’s storefront in Chinatown. Opposite, from left: Grand Park and City Hall; sweets from Bottega Louie on South Grand Avenue

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Downtown’s heritage as a mercantile center can still be experienced in its historic shopping districts, popular with bargain hunters.

east is the rapidly gentrifying Arts District, which boasts buzzy shops and markets; new galleries including Hauser Wirth & Schimmel; a bevy of craft breweries; and such lauded restaurants as the Factory Kitchen, Officine Brera and Bestia.

L.A. Live

Spring Street from 4th to 7th streets is a rapidly awakening area once referred to as the “Wall Street of the West.” Steps from this historic district is a row of trendy bars on 6th Street (between Main and Los Angeles streets) that includes the Varnish.

Shopping Districts

Downtown’s heritage as a mercantile center can still be experienced in its historic shopping districts. The Jewelry District draws shoppers looking for deals on diamonds; in the neighboring Fashion District, you can find designer clothing items. At Santee Alley, an open-air bargain bazaar, designer trends breed low-priced knockoffs. The Flower District offers blooms at wholesale prices. For an awesome mix of old-school produce vendors and lunch counters and new, upscale specialty stalls, Grand Central Market, near the foot of Angels Flight, is the place to go. And the Figat7th shopping center is home to trendy boutiques and eateries.

G R E AT F I N D

Chinatown

Chinatown is a great destination for sampling dim sum, dining at new foodie-favorite spots like Pok Pok LA and Howlin’ Rays or browsing for clothing, tea or home goods. Cultural highlights include Thien Hau Temple and the Chinese American Museum. Chung King Road and Gin Ling Way are home to galleries; Broadway is lined with boutiques. Dodger Stadium is a short drive away, as is San Antonio Winery, which offers tours and tastings.

Little Tokyo

Little Tokyo’s bar scene is popping, and dining options range from traditional sushi at Japanese Village Plaza to upscale Asian fusion at Simbal. Just a few steps down 1st Street is the sleek Japanese American National Museum. The Geffen Contemporary, a branch of MOCA, is next door. At 2nd and Main streets is the former St. Vibiana cathedral, now home to stylish Redbird restaurant. To Little Tokyo’s

/ in the bag

➺ The handbags designed by sisters Nancy and Kimberly Wu—the Orange County-

born founders of Building Block—are not your typical “it” bags. Their lines are unfussy, their logo is discreet, and their ornamentation is limited to a wooden cincher here or leather tassel there. Yet they are easily spotted (and mightily desired) by the fashion cognoscenti, who are celebrating the launch of the brand’s first studio/retail store, in Chinatown’s Mandarin Plaza. Iko Iko’s Kristin Dickson-Okuda and Shin Okuda collaborated on the furniture for the space, whose gallery-like walls are a complementary backdrop for the bags and other accessories, as well as books selected by Suzanne Wu (an homage to the previous occupant, a Chinese bookstore). 970 N. Broadway, Unit 104, downtown, 323.803.3420, building--block.com —S.E.

Exposition Park

Just south of downtown is Exposition Park, whose grounds hold major museums and the Los Angeles Memorial Coliseum. The California African American Museum delves into African-American history, and the beaux arts-style Natural History Museum of Los Angeles County offers insight into prehistoric giants. The California Science Center has a 3-D Imax theater and exhibits the retired NASA space shuttle Endeavour. For bold items, see listings in the where guide. For a detailed map of downtown, see page 77. FROM TOP: DANIEL ENNIS; COURTESY BUILDING BLOCK

A mural in downtown’s burgeoning Arts District—one of Los Angeles’ best places to see street art

The $2.5 billion L.A. Live project is home to Staples Center, as well as the Los Angeles Lakers, Clippers and Kings, and it hosts top pop acts, as does Microsoft Theater, which boasts state-of-the-art acoustics. The Grammy Museum honors myriad music genres with videos, artifacts and interactive exhibits. A dozen restaurants and nightlife venues—WP24, Rock’n Fish and Lucky Strike Lanes, to name a few—face a massive urban plaza lined with LED screens. The Los Angeles Convention Center, encompassing 16-plus acres of exhibition space, is also here.

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L.A. STYLE OUTLET SAVINGS

Coach Michael Kors Kate Spade TUMI Hugo Boss A/X Disney Tommy Hilfiger Nike Levi’s Outlet

There is a style that is uniquely Los Angeles. Effortless, defined by this place where dreams come true and trends are born. Find Your L.A. Style at Citadel Outlets. A truly World Class shopping experience, with over 130 stores full of big brand style and fashion-conscious savings. It’s so L.A.— and only minutes from downtown.

CitadelOutlets.com I-5 at Atlantic Blvd. exit.

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EXPLORING

Pasadena THE BLOOM OF PASADENA DOESN’T FADE AFTER NEW YEAR’S DAY, AS A BLEND OF SMALL-TOWN CHARM AND COSMOPOLITAN ENERGY MAKES THE CROWN CITY A YEAR-ROUND DESTINATION.

➺Minutes from downtown L.A. via the Arroyo Seco Parkway (Pasadena Freeway) or the Metro Gold Line Old Pasadena

A tribute to foresighted urban planning is the 22-square-block shopping district known as Old Pasadena, roughly bounded by Walnut and Green streets, Arroyo Parkway and Pasadena Avenue. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, it’s a collection of restored buildings filled with trendy boutiques, bistros and nightclubs. Merchants range from Tesla Motors to Urban Outfitters, and eateries include Union, a top-rated Italian restaurant. Pedestrian-only alleys meander through the One Colorado project in the heart of Old Pasadena, where restaurants offer alfresco dining overlooking a sculpture-strewn square. Boutiques such as Vince and Cop. Copine draw shoppers, while iPic Theaters reimagines the moviegoing experience with state-of-theart technology, plush seats and a bar/café. Nearby is the Norton Simon Museum, home to one of the finest art collections in the West. The galleries are filled with works dating from the Renaissance to the 20th century, and the museum’s repertoire of impressionist masters (e.g., Monet, Cézanne, Van Gogh) is formidable. A sculpture garden features a major tribute to Degas.

East of Old Pasadena is Paseo Colorado, a shopping center with an ArcLight movie theater, restaurants and shops lining garden promenades. Its open-air design frames views of Pasadena City Hall, a majestic landmark restored to its original beaux-arts grandeur.

Lake Avenue through one of the city’s most opulent residential neighborhoods leads to the Langham Huntington. Consider this grand, historic hotel for high tea, Japanese Kobe beef at its Royce steakhouse or pampering at its award-winning Chuan Spa.

Playhouse District + South Lake Avenue

San Marino + San Gabriel Valley

Anchored by the Mission-style Pasadena Playhouse, this district offers art-house cinema, antique shops, boutiques and bookstores, as well as the famed Ice House comedy club, whose stage has hosted George Carlin and Jerry Seinfeld. Other cultural attractions include the Boston Court Performing Arts Center and the USC Pacific Asia Museum (which is closed through May 2017 for a seismic retrofit). The Pasadena Museum of California Art celebrates Golden State painters and sculptors from 1850 to the present. East of the Playhouse District, South Lake Avenue provides a vibrant shopping environment. Inviting boutiques are set around European-style courtyards at the Commons and Burlington Arcade. A drive south on

South of the Langham is San Marino and its primary attraction, The Huntington, whose library, art collections, botanical gardens and new education and visitor center occupy one of the most remarkable pieces of real estate in Southern California. Here, the Italianate mansion of railroad magnate Henry Huntington houses an extraordinary collection of 18th- and 19th-century art, and a library with nearly 9 million rare books, photographs and manuscripts occupies another structure. Throughout the 200-acre property are more than a dozen distinct botanical environments, the Helen & Peter Bing Children’s Garden and a formal rose garden boasting more than 1,400 varieties of the flower. Sharing Pasadena’s eastern border are the communities of Sierra Madre and Arcadia,

FROM LEFT: DALE BERMAN; COURTESY THE NORTON SIMON ART FOUNDATION. OPPOSITE: LISA ROMEREIN

commuter train is Pasadena. Its architectural pedigree is world-class, and renowned institutions including the Tournament of Roses and Caltech lend it cachet. The city’s diverse neighbors are also worth discovering.

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NEW IN TOWN

Tadashi Shoji

The eveningwear designer, beloved by celebrities and the first lady alike, opens his first concept boutique, which features art installations alongside red-carpet-ready gowns. 2212 Glendale Galleria, Glendale, 818.547.5448

TLT Food

The Great Food Truck Race winner the Lime Truck serves up its tasty fusion tacos at a fourth brick-andmortar location. 36 S. El Molino Ave., Pasadena, 626.714.7117

TOMS

The do-good brand marks its 10th anniversary with the opening of its second stand-alone store in L.A. Shop for shoes, sunglasses and even bridalwear at the new location at the Americana at Brand. 775 Americana Way, Suite E-16, Glendale, 818.637.7844

The Huntington Library, Art Collections, and Botanical Gardens. Opposite, from left: Windowshoppers in Old Pasadena; a gallery at the Norton Simon Museum

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The Americana at Brand in Glendale

home to Santa Anita Park, a storied thoroughbred-horse-racing venue. Arcadia is also home to the 127-acre Los Angeles County Arboretum and Botanic Garden, whose natural Southern California habitat is famous for its wild peacocks. Farther east, scattered along the San Bernardino Freeway (I-10), are the communities of San Gabriel, Temple City, Monterey Park and Alhambra, which have attracted large numbers of Chinese and Vietnamese immigrants, so the opportunity for enjoying Asian cuisine is virtually unrivaled in Southern California. Tourists passionate about history, architecture or faith explore the 1771 San Gabriel Mission, and the San Gabriel Mountains present hiking opportunities for nature lovers.

The Road to South Pasadena

The scenic route to South Pasadena on Orange Grove Boulevard passes through a stretch once known as Millionaire’s Row. Some splendid homes remain, including

G R E AT F I N D

the former Wrigley Mansion (Tournament House) that now houses the Tournament of Roses Association. North of Old Pasadena, the boulevard leads to the Gamble House. This, the most famous achievement of architects Greene and Greene, is a classic representation of the Arts and Crafts movement that left its imprint on Pasadena. South Pasadena is a tranquil community whose Craftsman homes range from bungalows to mansions, and its Mission West Historic District is lined with antique shops, art galleries, casual cafés and kid-friendly spots like Fair Oaks Pharmacy, a restored drugstore from 1915 whose vintage soda fountain is straight from a Norman Rockwell painting.

Eagle Rock + Glendale

West of Pasadena is Eagle Rock, a quiet college town reinventing itself as a trendy L.A. neighborhood. Its main drag of Colorado Boulevard is lined with a diverse collection of restaurants including Casa Bianca, a ven-

/ strike a pose

➺ Score one for nostalgia. In an area that’s no stranger to the wrecking ball, the

newly restored Highland Park Bowl is a lucky strike. The 1927 building has been stripped back to reveal its original Spanish Revival exterior and period details, from the chrome Brunswick pin-setters to a rediscovered 1930s forest mural. Today, stepping into the eight-lane bowling lounge is a step back into Prohibition-era history, when the building was an ad hoc speakeasy. Drinking is once again the name of the game, with booze served at a horseshoe bar, along with Neapolitan-style pizza cooked in a wood-fired oven. Lanes with oversized sofas rent for $50-$70 per hour for up to six keglers, plus $5 shoe rentals. Family bowling before 8 p.m., 21+ after. 5621 N. Figueroa St., L.A., 323.257.2695, highlandparkbowl.com —V.A.

erable old-school pizza joint. In Eagle Rock, students from highly ranked Occidental College—where a young Barack Obama once studied—mingle with young couples who are snapping up hillside real estate. On the far side of Eagle Rock is Glendale, the third-largest city in Los Angeles County. There, office workers pour out of high-rises for happy hour at The Americana at Brand, an open-air shopping, residential and entertainment development. Style-savvy shoppers can browse at boutiques, catch a movie or recharge at the Americana’s restaurants, which include the Philippe Starck-designed Katsuya and celebrity chef Michael Mina’s Bourbon Steak. Home to a large Armenian community, Glendale offers a wealth of ethnic eateries specializing in kebabs, shawarma and belly dancing. Marked by a towering neon obelisk is the Alex Theatre, a restored art deco masterpiece that hosts concerts and musicals. Steps from the Alex is the new Museum of Neon Art, dedicated to showcasing a quintessentially L.A. craft. North of Glendale is Montrose, whose main street of Honolulu Avenue is more Mayberry than L.A. Close by, in La Cañada Flintridge, is sprawling Descanso Gardens, with North America’s largest camellia collection—an awesome sight when in full bloom during January and February. For bold items, see listings in the where guide. For a detailed map of these neighborhoods, see page 78.

FROM TOP: MATT HARTMAN; COURTESY HIGHLAND PARK BOWL

The Los Angeles County Arboretum and Botanical Garden’s natural Southern California habitat is famous for its wild peacocks.

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OPBD-0

ust 15 minutes from downtown Los Angeles and conveniently situated along the Metro Gold Line, Old Pasadena is a vibrant hub of world-class shopping, dining, arts, and entertainment. Comprising 22 blocks of nationally registered historic architecture, Old Pasadena is widely recognized as a premier destination and one of the few truly walkable urban districts in California. Come explore more than 300 independent boutiques, exclusive retailers, sidewalk cafes, and fine restaurants in this authentic main street experience.

Visit or shop online at this artful living boutique that offers a mix of unique new and vintage furniture, home furnishings and gifts.

Maude Woods 55 E. Holly Street 626.577.3400 maudewoods.com

Popular for 27 years offering fresh, light Italian cooking with New York flavors and a variety of exotic cuisine to meet guestsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; diverse palate.

A contemporary cabinet of curiosities with a museum perspective on current artists, jewelers, and designers.

Shopping is fun at this high-end designer resale store, offering the best of recent and vintage Chanel, Vuitton, Prada and more!

Mi Piace Italian Kitchen

Gold Bug

Clothes Heaven

25 E. Colorado Blvd. 626.795.3131 mipiace.com

22 E. Union St. 626.744.9963 goldbugpasadena.com

111 E. Union Street 626.440.0929 clothesheaven.com

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EXPLORING

The Valley HOLLYWOOD MIGHT BE THE SPIRITUAL CENTER OF THE ENTERTAINMENT INDUSTRY, BUT THE SAN FERNANDO VALLEY, AKA “THE OTHER SIDE OF THE HILL,” IS WHERE MOVIEMAKING MAGIC HAPPENS.

➺

Universal City

A couple of Metro stops north of the heart of Hollywood is Universal City, a major entertainment-industry outpost. The highlight is Universal Studios Hollywood, which offers a behind-the-scenes peek into moviemaking, plus a theme park with rollicking roller coasters and high-tech virtual-reality action rides. The brand-new Wizarding World of Harry Potter attraction is all the buzz; also thrilling are the Despicable Me: Minion Mayhem attraction and the Simpsons Ride and its adjacent Springfieldthemed “world.” Splurge for Universal’s VIP Experience, which pampers its guests with such perks as private tour guides, exclusive backlot access and unlimited front-of-line access in the theme park. Among the wide-ranging attractions next door at pedestrian-only Universal CityWalk are skydiving simulations at iFly Hollywood and mechanical bull riding at Saddle Ranch Chop House. Restaurants include new Blaze Pizza, Smashburger and chef Ludo Lefebvre’s LudoBird, and stores such as Lush Cosmetics and Skechers will loosen your wallet.

Burbank

Burbank calls itself the “media capital of the world”—and with good reason. This cosmopolitan city is home to some of the most famous players in the entertainment business, including Walt Disney Studios, Cartoon Network and Nickelodeon Animation Studio. Get a taste of the action on a Warner Bros. Studio Tour Hollywood or as part of the studio audience at a taping of one of your favorite programs, such as The Ellen DeGeneres Show. The media district, which encompasses most of these companies, also boasts some newer cafés and dining destinations, including Coffee Commissary and Simmzy’s, as well as the iconic Bob’s Big Boy, which hosts a classic-car show every Friday. As vibrant as it is, Burbank’s entertainment industry is hardly the city’s only draw. More than 160 restaurants and shops cater to locals and visitors alike. The downtown district offers a major-mall shopping experience, movie theaters and the ever-popular Ikea, but surrounding streets, such as historic San Fernando Boulevard, have a more homegrown feel, with nightlife destinations, shops and trendy bistros such as Granville

Cafe. Another must-visit district is hip Magnolia Park, centered at Magnolia Boulevard and Hollywood Way, which offers indie cafés, antique shops and the area’s best retro and vintage boutiques (Playclothes and Pinup Girl are favorites). Always-packed Porto’s Bakery—one of the country’s top restaurants, according to Yelp—offers excellent pastries and sandwiches from Europe and the owners’ native Cuba. Do you like the outdoors? Burbank is a gateway to the Verdugo Mountains, which are crisscrossed with hiking trails. A workout here is rewarded with spectacular views of Burbank, the Hollywood Hills and downtown L.A. For golf enthusiasts, DeBell Golf Club features regulation 18-hole and par-3 courses. And during the summer, outdoor amphitheater the Starlight Bowl hosts a music series. If you’re jetting into or out of L.A., you can escape the hassles of LAX by opting for Burbank’s uncongested Bob Hope Airport. It offers nonstop flights to many cities across the country and is centrally located, with easy access to Hollywood, downtown L.A. and the San Gabriel Valley.

FROM LEFT: EDWIN SANTIAGO; DALE BERMAN. OPPOSITE: DAVE LAURIDSEN

The Valley is a sprawling collection of communities, each with its own attractions and charms. Immortalized in movies as diverse as Chinatown and Valley Girl, the area derives its name from Mission San Fernando Rey de España, the historic landmark on the Valley’s northernmost edge.

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The Federal Bar in North Hollywood. Opposite, from left: Universal CityWalk in Universal City; a dessert from renowned Porto’s Bakery in Burbank

NEW IN TOWN

Alfred {Coffee + Kitchen}

The trendy café comes to the Valley, bringing nitro cold brew, Yeastie Boys Bagels and Café Gratitude food. 12077 Ventura Place, Studio City, alfredcoffee.com

Claudine

This cute all-day spot is both an artisanal kitchen and bakeshop. 16350 Ventura Blvd., Suite F, Encino, 818.616.3838

Dongpo Kitchen Meizhou Dongpo’s new casual concept serves traditional Chinese fare at Universal CityWalk. 100 Universal City Plaza, Suite V103, Universal City, 818.358.3362

North Hollywood

North Hollywood wasn’t much of a tourist destination until the community transformed its commercial core into the NoHo Arts District, now filled with nearly two dozen professional theaters, including the landmark El Portal Theatre. These venues present some of the most innovative stage performances in L.A., and neighboring dance studios and art galleries contribute to the scene. With restaurants like the Federal Bar, a lively gastropub with a full calendar of music and comedy, and Idle Hour, a bar in a barrel-shaped, refurbished landmark building from the 1940s, the momentum continues for this transit-linked urban village. From NoHo’s Metro station, you can access central Hollywood and downtown via the Red Line subway or board the Orange Line, a sleek express bus that traverses the entire San Fernando Valley.

Ventura Boulevard

This iconic, palm-lined boulevard stretches 20 miles across the San Fernando Valley. Immortalized in music by Frank Zappa and

Tom Petty, the boulevard is an integral part of L.A. culture and home to a burgeoning dining scene. In Studio City, it’s lined with eateries, including entertainment-industry-favored Art’s Deli, new favorite the Bellwether and a greater concentration of acclaimed sushi bars (such as Asanebo) than Little Tokyo claims. For shopping, there are charming boutiques, including Dari and Voyage et Cie, and beauty retreats such as Face Haus facial bar. Hip bars and restaurants including Firefly have helped to launch a nightlife scene. Farther west, as the boulevard winds its way through Sherman Oaks, you’ll encounter laid-back trattorias and bistros, as well as shops such as Abundance, a boutique showcasing plus-size designer fashions. Sherman Oaks is also home to Westfield Fashion Square, anchored by Macy’s and Bloomingdale’s and featuring upscale boutiques. Sherman Oaks Galleria is near the junction of the 405 and 101 freeways; draws include ArcLight Cinemas, where there’s a chance you’ll see famous faces drawn to the Valley by its familyoriented lifestyle.

Deep in the Valley

Westfield Topanga shopping center is loaded with exclusive designer boutiques, including Louis Vuitton and David Yurman. The Village lifestyle destination opened last fall, expanding the center’s retail and dining options. Farther west off the Ventura Freeway (U.S. 101) is Calabasas, where celebrities move for more elbow room. Upscale shopping and casual eateries live at the Commons at Calabasas, an elegant openair destination. A few exits beyond that is Westlake Village, where locals hit the luxurious spa or do lunch at the Four Seasons. Visitors to the Ronald Reagan Presidential Library and Museum in neighboring Simi Valley can step aboard an actual Air Force One, visit a full-size replica of the White House Oval Office and learn all about America’s 40th president. North on the Golden State Freeway (I-5) in Valencia, coaster enthusiasts gather at Six Flags Magic Mountain for rides too wild for Disneyland. For bold items, see listings in the where guide. For a detailed map of these neighborhoods, see page 78.

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EXPLORING

South Bay

➺In the South Bay, the cities of Manhattan Beach, Hermosa Beach and Redondo Beach occupy an idyllic

coastal stretch renowned for surfing and volleyball. To the north is El Segundo; to the south are the beautiful bluffs of the Palos Verdes Peninsula and the bustling waterfronts of San Pedro and Long Beach.

Manhattan Beach

Nineteen miles southwest of downtown Los Angeles, Manhattan Beach boasts 2 miles of beaches with sand so fine that developers from Waikiki Beach in Honolulu imported it in the 1920s. This laid-back city is home to many professional athletes: You may spot an L.A. Kings player as you walk along the Strand, the pedestrian promenade sandwiched between multimillion-dollar homes and the beachfront bike trail. At the end of the city’s picturesque pier, the Roundhouse Aquarium delights with touch tanks. The pier features plaques commemorating winners of the Manhattan Beach Open—the South Bay is die-hard beach-volleyball country. It’s also a playground for water-sports enthusiasts, including bodyboarders and surfers. East of the pier along Manhattan Beach Boulevard and Manhattan Avenue are chic boutiques and a burgeoning dining scene, with restaurants such as The Arthur J, Love & Salt, Little Sister and The Strand House drawing gourmets from across L.A. The Metlox center is a popular gathering spot, with shops such as the Beehive and hot spots including Zinc at the Shade Hotel.

Hermosa Beach

Heading south on Manhattan Avenue brings you to Pier Avenue, the heart of Hermosa Beach. Hermosa shares many characteristics with Manhattan Beach, including a scenic 2-mile stretch of beachfront punctuated by volleyball nets, fitness buffs weaving along the Strand (here merged with the bike path) and a pier studded with bronze plaques commemorating surfing legends. Come late afternoon, the pedestrian plaza at Pier Avenue west of Hermosa Avenue becomes a different kind of South Bay scene, thanks to spillover from packed bars and restaurants such as Hennessey’s and Killer Shrimp. Beyond Pier Plaza, on Hermosa Avenue, Jay Leno still draws crowds to the Comedy & Magic Club with Sunday-night shows. To the plaza’s east, café/boutique Gum Tree and Steak & Whisky are standouts among the specialty shops and eateries that line Pier Avenue. Farther east, Becker’s carries surfboards and beachwear.

Redondo Beach

The largest of L.A. County’s beach cities, Redondo Beach is home to the 1,457-seat

Redondo Beach Performing Arts Center and a recreational waterfront featuring 2 miles of sandy beaches, the popular Redondo Beach Pier and King Harbor. Sepulveda Boulevard becomes Pacific Coast Highway as it enters town; signs point west to King Harbor’s Redondo Beach Marina, one of four marinas in the harbor. Here you find businesses such as Redondo Sportfishing offering fishing excursions and whale-watching tours, while other local outfitters rent out kayaks, paddleboats, bicycles and wave runners. South of the harbor, the historic Redondo Beach Pier has had its ups and downs, but it keeps rising from the ashes to attract locals and visitors to quick-andcasual eateries, amusements and souvenir shops. South of the pier, the gentle waves and somewhat narrow strip of Redondo State Beach draw crowds during the summer, while the bike path meanders by on its way to its terminus at Torrance State Beach. One block east of the beach, the Riviera Village shopping district has a small-town feel, with restaurants and specialty boutiques such as Cami and the Catalina Cooking Store covering a six-block radius.

FROM LEFT: COURTESY HERMOSA BEACH CHAMBER OF COMMERCE AND VISITORS BUREAU; COURTESY FISHING WITH DYNAMITE. OPPOSITE: EDWIN SANTIAGO

THE SOUTH BAY’S BEACHES AND HARBORS ARE ACTION-PACKED, BUT THE LIVING IS EASY. LOOK FOR OCEAN-VIEW DINING, MOM-AND-POP SHOPS AND SEASIDE ATTRACTIONS.

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NEW IN TOWN Bellacures

The high-end nailsalon chain debuts a stylish new look at its latest outpost. The Point, 820 S. Sepulveda Blvd., El Segundo, 310.341.7600

Fabletics

Kate Hudson’s trendyyet-affordable activewear brand opens a shop at Del Amo Fashion Center. 3524 W. Carson St., Torrance, 424.265.9222

Suburbia

At chef Tin Vuong’s new neighborhood eatery, the menu features standout dishes from across his restaurant empire. 247 Avenida del Norte, Redondo Beach, 424.398.0237

The Queen Mary in Long Beach. Opposite, from left: Hermosa Beach Pier; Fishing With Dynamite in Manhattan Beach

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Among Long Beach’s most popular draws is the 1,020-foot-long Queen Mary, a historic, supposedly haunted ship-turned-hotel.

The horseshoe-shaped pier in Redondo Beach

Palos Verdes Peninsula

Beyond Redondo Beach rises the Palos Verdes Peninsula, a rugged 26-square-mile area known for majestic bluffs that afford sweeping views of the Pacific Ocean and Santa Catalina Island. Head a few miles inland via Palos Verdes Drive North to the 87-acre South Coast Botanic Garden, a yearround attraction boasting 200,000 plants. Or hug the coast on Palos Verdes Drive West to Rancho Palos Verdes’ Point Vicente Interpretive Center, a popular gray-whalewatching site. Just beyond the adjacent Point Vicente lighthouse is the Mediterraneanstyle Terranea Resort, which offers fine dining, a 50,000-square-foot oceanfront spa and a public nine-hole golf course. Farther along is the Wayfarers Chapel, designed by Frank Lloyd Wright’s son Lloyd Wright. The impressive Swedenborgian “glass church” is a popular wedding venue. The nearby 18-hole public course at Trump National Golf Club is top-ranked.

G R E AT F I N D

San Pedro

The multicultural community of San Pedro, on the southeastern side of the Palos Verdes Peninsula, was once the largest commercial fishing port in the nation. Today it’s home to the bustling 7,500-acre Port of Los Angeles, which features passenger and cargo terminals, as well as a crafts marketplace and new brewery Brouwerij West. Catalina Express operates from Berth 95, offering daily boat service to Catalina’s quaint city of Avalon and rustic village of Two Harbors. More than a million travelers pass through the World Cruise Center (Berths 91-93) annually; adjacent to the complex is the battleship-turnedmuseum USS Iowa. The New England-style Ports O’ Call Village offers waterfront restaurants and shops, and beyond it is the marina, part of the Cabrillo Beach Recreational Complex. The complex also includes the Frank Gehry-designed Cabrillo Marine Aquarium and Cabrillo Beach—one of the county’s most popular windsurfing spots.

/ take a break

➺ In Sweden, the term “fika” refers to a daily practice of taking a break to recharge

over coffee and baked goods. Sounds heavenly, no? Luckily for us, Andres Pineros, owner of new coffee roastery The Fika Company, thinks so, too. He’s created the perfect spot for duplicating the cultural institution in the South Bay. The café’s coffee is direct-traded from Colombian farmers, then roasted in small, 5-kilo batches in the shop. Customers rave about the cold brew and mochas, which pair nicely with the pastries and artisanal chocolates on offer. Enjoy a cup inside the stylish, livingroom-like interior, or sit outside on the rustic, dog-friendly patio. You can even pick up some freshly roasted, bagged Colombian coffee to brew yourself, so you can fika at home. 350 N. Pacific Coast Hwy., Redondo Beach, thefikacompany.com —G.G.

In the county’s southwest corner, Long Beach boasts a busy commercial port, an attraction-packed waterfront and more than 5 miles of beaches. A popular draw is the 1,020-foot-long Queen Mary, a historic, supposedly haunted ship-turned-hotel, dining and shopping attraction permanently moored in Long Beach Harbor. The Long Beach Convention & Entertainment Center, The Pike Outlets, the Aquarium of the Pacific and Shoreline Village are nearby. From the village, you can follow the Shoreline pedestrian bike path 3.1 miles, past the Long Beach Museum of Art and into the Belmont Shore neighborhood. Here you’ll find shops and restaurants along 2nd Street, Bay Shore Beach, the Belmont Pier and windsurfing and kite-surfing lessons. Across a small channel is Naples, where you can take gondola rides through the canals and dine at restaurants such as Michael’s on Naples. Downtown, along 4th Street between Junipero and Cherry avenues, vintagefurniture and clothing shops make up funky “Retro Row.” In the emergent East Village Arts District, hip galleries and boutiques are sprouting where Linden Avenue meets Broadway. Farther east, an impressive collection of modern and contemporary works decks the walls of the Museum of Latin American Art. For bold items, see listings in the where guide. For a detailed map of these neighborhoods, see page 77.

FROM TOP: EDWIN SANTIAGO; COURTESY THE FIKA COMPANY

Long Beach

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where

the guide DIN ING

QUENTIN BACON

Top Honors The opening of celebrity chef Curtis Stone’s restaurant/ butcher shop Gwen (p. 52) in Hollywood is the talk of L.A.’s dining scene (a variety of its charcuterie options are pictured here). The former Top Chef Masters host also has the intimate Maude (p. 54) in Beverly Hills, where he showcases a different seasonal ingredient each month. But Stone isn’t the only alum of Bravo’s Top Chef franchise feeding fans in L.A. In Century City, Top Chef head judge Tom Colicchio’s highend Craft (p. 52) offers an à la carte menu with fun, shareable dishes. Other noteworthy local draws include Michael Voltaggio’s Ink. on Melrose (p. 52), Nyesha Arrington’s Leona in Venice (p. 54) and CJ Jacobson’s Girasol (p. 54) in Studio City.

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THE GUIDE | DINING

ANIMAL Bare-bones eatery, from the guys known to Food Network fans as the “Two Dudes,” is a carnivore’s dream. Dishes include delectable takes on offal (such as crispy pig’s ear) and a bacon-chocolate-crunch bar for dessert. D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 435 N. Fairfax Ave., L.A., 323.782.9225 $$$ Map I13 AREAL Community restaurant serves locally grown, sustainable food paired with cocktails crafted from organic, fresh produce. The daily happy hour is a draw, as is the dog-friendly patio. L (Tu-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 2820 Main St., Santa Monica, 310.392.1661 $$ Map M9 BIRCH Cahuenga Corridor spot from chef Brendan Collins serves a seasonally driven menu (try the rabbit baklava with dates, white beans, pistachios and carrots) in a whitewashed, clean-lined space. D (nightly), Sunday roast noon-4 pm. 1634 N. Cahuenga Blvd., Hollywood, 323.960.3369 $$$ Map H13

A Bite Above Downtown L.A.’s restaurant scene has been on the rise for years. But it has reached new heights with the opening of 71Above—“the highest restaurant west of the Mississippi”— on the 71st floor of the U.S. Bank Tower. The swanky new eatery headed by chef Vartan Abgaryan (formerly of Cliff’s Edge) towers 950 feet above 5th Street. Diners can enjoy an unobstructed panoramic view of the city’s skyline and beyond while dining on elevated modern American cuisine. À la carte options are available at the bar, and prix-fixe twocourse lunch menus and threecourse dinner menus ($35 and $70, respectively) are offered in the main dining room (pictured above) and in several private dining spaces. L (M-F), D (nightly). 633 W. 5th St., 71st floor, downtown, 213.712.2683 $$$ Map H16

CLAIM JUMPER Saloon-style eatery features grill fare and its own label of craft beer. L (varies by location), D (nightly), Br (varies by location). 3500 W. Olive Ave., Burbank, 818.260.0505; 820 W. Huntington Drive, Monrovia, 626.359.0463; 9429 Tampa Ave., Northridge, 818.718.2882; 25740 The Old Road, Valencia, 661.254.2628; 6501 E. Pacific Coast Hwy., Long Beach, 562.431.1321 $ Map T22, Q23, north of A1 (2), D4 CLIFTON’S This kitschy downtown cafeteria, which dates to the 1930s, recently reopened after a multimillion-dollar renovation. The multiple-story eatery offers old-school cuisine like a roast-meat-carving station and Jell-O for dessert, as well as a craft-beer bar and the new Pacific Seas tiki bar. L, D (daily). 648 S. Broadway, downtown, 213.627.1673 $$ Map I16 CRAFT New York chef Tom Colicchio of TV’s Top Chef brings his signature concept to L.A. The restaurant delivers an endless, contemporary American à la carte menu, with fun, shareable dishes including roasted octopus and diver scallops with vermouth butter. L (M-F), D (M-Sa). 10100 Constellation Blvd., L.A., 310.279.4180 $$$$ Map K11 GWEN Maude chef Curtis Stone and brother Luke’s new restaurant—named after their maternal grandmother— features meat-centric, five-course tasting menus served in an art deco dining room, plus a European-style butcher shop in the front. 6600 Sunset Blvd., L.A., 323.946.7513 $$$ Map H14 INDEPENDENCE This bright, friendly tavern in downtown Santa Monica pays homage to the Los Angeles & Independence Railroad, which connected downtown L.A. with what is now the Santa Monica Pier back in 1875. The restaurant’s casual setting belies its refined new American cuisine. L (Tu-Th), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 205 Broadway, Santa Monica, 310.458.2500 $$$ Map L8 INK. Top Chef winner Michael Voltaggio showcases daring molecular gastronomy at his first restaurant. Explore the constantly changing à la carte small plates. D (nightly). 8360 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.651.5866 $$$ Map I12 JOAN’S ON THIRD Celebrity-frequented café on busy West 3rd Street and a newer location in the Valley offer omelets, sandwiches, salads, soups and sweets, plus picnic baskets and gourmet items. B, L, D (daily). 8350 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.655.2285; 12059 Ventura Place, Studio City, 818.201.3900 $ Map I12, T18 LEDLOW The newest restaurant from chef Josef Centeno, who rules downtown’s Old Bank District (Bäco Mercat, Bar Amá, Orsa & Winston), offers twists on classic bistro dishes, American favorites and diverse

guidelines

Map locators at the end of each listing (Map A3; Map H10, etc.) refer to maps in the back of this issue. Compendium includes editors’ recommendations and advertisers.

index American.............................. 52 Japanese................................56 Breweries/Gastropubs.... 53 Mediterranean....................56 British/Irish.......................... 53 Mexican/Latin.................... 57 California............................... 53 Pan-Asian..............................58 Chinese..................................54 Seafood..................................59 Eclectic/Fusion...................54 Spanish..................................59 French.....................................54 Steak.......................................60 Italian...................................... 55 Thai........................................... 61

cultural staples (e.g., brioche French toast and chicken schnitzel). B, L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 400 S. Main St., downtown, 213.687.7000 $$ Map I17 M.B. POST Chef David LeFevre serves small plates of seafood, fresh-baked breads, cured meats and more in the space of a former post office. L (F-Su), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 1142 Manhattan Ave., Manhattan Beach, 310.545.5405 $$$ Map L13 ODYS + PENELOPE Churrasco and grill features a live-fire grill and wood-fired smoker. Eclectic, flavorful cuisine is accompanied by a menu of craft beer, wine and handcrafted cocktails. Vegan, vegetarian and glutenfree options also available. D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 127 S. La Brea Ave., L.A., 323.939.1033 $$$ Map B2 OX & SON Farm-to-table restaurant and wine/cocktail bar from the FNA Hospitality Group (Art’s Table, Ashland Hill, OP Cafe). Creative comfort-food menu includes items like handmade cavatelli, plus gluten-free options. B (daily), L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 1534 Montana Ave., Santa Monica, 310.829.3990 $$$ Map K8 PLAN CHECK KITCHEN + BAR Growing minichain offers contemporary takes on American classics, complemented with craft beers and premium whiskeys. Try the acclaimed Plan Check Burger, topped with dashi cheese and ketchup leather. L, D (daily). 1800 Sawtelle Blvd., L.A., 310.444.1411; 351 N. Fairfax Ave., L.A., 323.591.0094; 1111 Wilshire Blvd., downtown, 213.403.1616 $$ Map K9, I12, H16 REDBIRD Chef Neal Fraser’s contemporary American cuisine is offered in the rectory of the former Cathedral of St. Vibiana. Rack of red wattle pork and chicken potpie are part of an intriguing menu. An updated Spanish baroque decor and retro-inspired cocktails complete the scene. L (Tu-F), D (nightly), Br (Su). 114 E. 2nd St., downtown, 213.788.1191 $$$ Map H17 SADDLE PEAK LODGE Nestled in the Santa Monica Mountains, this elegant hunt-lodge-themed spot is a study in romantic rusticity, with moose heads overlooking candlelit tables. The menu focuses on game dishes such as grilled Blue Mountain wapiti elk tenderloin. D (nightly), Br (Su). 419 Cold Canyon Road, Calabasas, 818.222.3888 $$$$ Map northwest of A1 SALT CREEK GRILLE Enjoy mesquite-grilled burgers, chops, steaks, seafood and an interesting selection of California beers and wines at these classic American restaurants, which boast outdoor patios and live music. El Segundo: L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). Valencia: L (M-Sa), D (nightly), Br (Su). 2015 E. Park Place, El Segundo, 310.335.9288; 24415 Town Center Drive, Suite 115, Valencia, 661.222.9999 $$ Map L14, north of A2

Master chef Joachim Splichal (Patina, p. 55, Kendall’s, p. 54) has overseen catering for the Emmy Awards Governors Ball for more than 20 years.

WONHO FRANK LEE

American

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DINING THE STRAND HOUSE This beachside restaurant boasts awesome ocean and pier views and a breezy, stylish bar. Executive chef Greg Hozinsky’s menu includes such starters as foie gras and charcuterie, which might be followed by branzino with black-truffle risotto. Don’t miss pastry chef Stephanie Franz’s doughnuts! L (Tu-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 117 Manhattan Beach Blvd., Manhattan Beach, 310.545.7470 $$$ Map L13

Breweries/Gastropubs ASHLAND HILL Casual craft-beer and wine garden from the restaurant group behind Ox & Son features a rotating selection of small-batch artisanal and “super-local” drafts and craft wines. Dine on creative bar bites in the cool taproom, or dig into the signature pork-belly tacos on the garden patio. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 2807 Main St., Santa Monica, 310.392.3300 $$ Map M9 FATHER’S OFFICE Microbrew mecca; one of L.A.’s best burgers. Santa Monica: L (Sa-Su), D (nightly). Culver City: L (F-Su), D (nightly). 1018 Montana Ave., Santa Monica; 3229 Helms Ave., Culver City, 310.736.2224 $$ Map L8, L11

Wine Spectator Award of Excellence

LOS ANGELES | NEWPORT BEACH at FASHION ISLAND | SANTA MONICA

La Jolla

COMING SOON

www.redorestaurant.com

SIMMZY’S Popular pub with locations in Manhattan Beach, Long Beach, Burbank and just off the Venice pier serves up hearty burgers (try the classic Simmzy’s), sandwiches, salads and other fresh fare. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 3000 W. Olive Ave., Burbank, 818.962.2500; 5271 E. 2nd St., Long Beach, 562.439.5590; 229 Manhattan Beach Blvd., Manhattan Beach, 310.546.1201; 37 Washington Blvd., Venice, 424.835.6580 $ Map T20, O17, L13, N9

British/Irish O’BRIEN’S IRISH PUB Pub and restaurant with brews and spirits, Irish and American cuisine, outdoor patio and live entertainment. D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 2941 Main St., Santa Monica, 310.396.4725 $ Map M8 TEA ROSE GARDEN This whimsical, English-garden tearoom, an Old Pasadena fixture for 20 years, serves traditional fare including scones, finger sandwiches and salads sprinkled with flower petals. A florist and boutique selling tea trays and loose-leaf teas are also onsite. B, L, Br (daily). 70 N. Raymond Ave., Pasadena, 626.578.1144 $$ Map Q20 YE OLDE KING’S HEAD Cozy pub/restaurant with traditional English fare, including acclaimed fish and chips. B, L, D (daily); high tea (M-Sa). 116 Santa Monica Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.451.1402 $ Map L8

California Cuisine CAVATINA Esteemed East Coast chef Michael Schlow’s first L.A. restaurant serves simple, local, delicious cuisine inside the rock ‘n’ roll-steeped Sunset Marquis hotel. Don’t miss Schlow’s award-winning burger. B, L, D (daily); Br (Su). 1200 Alta Loma Road, West Hollywood, 310.358.3759 $$$ Map H12 CHAYA The original Chaya in Japan remains open after nearly 400 years. In L.A., the Japanese-Californian menus feature modern izakaya dishes in addition to fresh seafood from local waters and Kyushu, Japan. Downtown: L (M-F), D (M-Sa). Venice: L (M-F), D (nightly). 525 S. Flower St., downtown, 213.236.9577; 110 Navy St., Venice, 310.396.1179 $$ Map H16, M8 COMMISSARY Buzzworthy poolside eatery from Roy Choi in a greenhouse-like setting. Emphasis on fruit- and vegetable-themed dishes and drinks. B, L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). The Line Hotel, second-floor greenhouse, 3515 Wilshire Blvd., L.A., 213.368.3030 $$ Map J14

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DINING

RUSTIC CANYON Discover boutique wines while sampling small plates of market-driven, Mediterraneaninspired fare. Clam pozole is just one of the winners. Hide in a cozy booth or mingle at the communal table. D (nightly). 1119 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.393.7050 $$$ Map L8

Avocado toast at Terrine

SPAGO An L.A. institution, Wolfgang Puck’s flagship restaurant features a modern dining room and a daily changing menu that may include dishes like veal “Wiener schnitzel” and spicy tuna tartare. Glimpse some of the 30,000 wine bottles on offer in a glass-ensconced “wine wall.” L (Tu-Sa), D (nightly). 176 N. Cañon Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.385.0880 $$$$ Map I11

FIG RESTAURANT Dine on a seasonal menu of bistro fare at this restaurant inside the Fairmont Miramar. Sunday brunch features the virtuous, as well as the decadent, plus creative cocktails. B, L, D (daily); Br (SaSu). Fairmont Miramar Hotel, 101 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.319.3111 $$ Map L8

THE TASTING KITCHEN Foodies come for the daily changing menu of innovative yet unpretentious cuisine from culinary-darling chef Casey Lane: small or large plates of cured meats, artisan cheeses, vegetables, seafood and pastas. D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 1633 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 310.392.6644 $$$ Map M9

THE FRONT YARD This restaurant at the Garland hotel features fresh farm-to-table cuisine from chef Larry Greenwood. Start your meal with chive flatbread topped with chimichurri butter, then move on to entrées like Mary’s Chicken. B, L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 4222 Vineland Ave., North Hollywood, 818.255.7290 $$ Map U19

TAVERN Chef Suzanne Goin’s third L.A. restaurant explores rustic Cal-Med fare in chic environs, including a popular sunlit indoor patio. The frequently changing menu might include “devil’s chicken” with leeks and mustard breadcrumbs. B (M-F), L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 11648 San Vicente Blvd., Brentwood, 310.806.6464 $$$ Map J9

GIRASOL Chef CJ Jacobson, a former Top Chef contestant, incorporates foraged ingredients into an inventive California menu (e.g., hamachi with white fir and wild sorrel). D (nightly), Br (Su). 11334 Moorpark St., Studio City, 818.924.2323 $$$ Map U19 HINOKI & THE BIRD Inside luxury residential tower the Century, taste Japanese and Southeast Asian flavors in such dishes as lobster rolls with green curry and Thai basil, and black cod scented with the smoke of the namesake hinoki wood. L (M-F), D (Tu-Sa). 10 W. Century Drive, Century City, 310.552.1200 $$$ Map J10 LEONA Top Chef and Knife Fight alum chef Nyesha Arrington serves upscale, seasonally driven “progressive California cuisine” (bulgogi-braised short rib, coctel mixto) a few blocks east of the Venice pier. L (Tu-F), D (Tu-Su), Br (Sa-Su). 123 W. Washington Blvd., Venice, 310.822.5379 $$$ Map N9

TERRINE Comfortable, elevated California brasserie fare (e.g., moules frites) from chef Kris Morningstar. The patio, which is dominated by a magnificent tree and dotted with sparkling lights, is as romantic as they come. L (Tu-F), D (Tu-Su), Br (Sa-Su). 8265 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 323.746.5130 $$$ Map I12 VIVIANE The Avalon Hotel Beverly Hills’ swanky poolside restaurant features a menu by chef Michael Hung (Faith & Flower), 1950s-inspired cocktails and a midcentury-modern design by Kelly Wearstler. California takes on European and American dishes include a beautiful salad of Little Gem lettuces. B, L (M-F); D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 9400 W. Olympic Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.407.7791 $$$ Map J11

Chinese

LOVE & SALT Dine on creative Cal-Italian fare (e.g., duck-egg pizza and whole roasted pig head) in this buzzy South Bay spot. Chef de cuisine/pastry chef Rebecca Merhej’s desserts are divine. D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 317 Manhattan Beach Blvd., Manhattan Beach, 310.545.5252 $$$ Map L13

BAO DIM SUM Premier dim-sum restaurant serves delicious, authentic dim sum in a relaxing, lantern-lit atmosphere. Favorites include juicy pork dumplings and shrimp shumai, followed by bao milk buns for dessert. L, D (daily). 8256 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 323.655.6556 $$ Map I12

MAUDE Celebrity chef Curtis Stone, an Aussie with a strong classical background, helms this intimate, 25-seat Beverly Hills restaurant named after his grandmother. Every month a different seasonal ingredient is showcased and artfully presented in a nine-course menu. D (Tu-Sa). 212 S. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.859.3418 $$$$ Map J11

DIN TAI FUNG Popular and critically acclaimed dumpling house, founded in Taiwan, has a location in Glendale’s Americana at Brand and a new location in the Westfield Santa Anita in Arcadia. Foodies line up for soup dumplings with filling combinations such as pork and crab or truffle and pork. L, D (daily). 177 Caruso Ave., Glendale, 818.551.5561; 400 S. Baldwin Ave., Arcadia, 626.446.8588 $$ Map U23, R23

MILO & OLIVE The husband-and-wife team from Rustic Canyon is behind this casual pizzeria and bakery. Zoe Nathan’s desserts and pastries shouldn’t be missed. B, L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 2723 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.453.6776 $$ Map K9 PLANT FOOD AND WINE Restaurant from Matthew Kenney takes a raw, locally sourced and plant-based approach to dining. Pair your meal with a glass of wine from an extensive organic and biodynamic selection. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 1009 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 310.450.1009 $$$ Map N9

MR CHOW The L.A. County editions of scene-y restaurants in New York and London offer Imperial Beijing cuisine. Beverly Hills: L (M-F), D (nightly). Malibu: D (nightly). 344 N. Camden Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.278.9911; Malibu Country Mart, 3835 Cross Creek Road, 18A, Malibu, 310.456.7600 $$$ Map I11, K7 ROC At this Little Osaka dumpling house, popular menu items include a scallion pancake, three-cup chicken and made-from-scratch soup dumplings stuffed

with pork and fresh crab. Additional locations are on West 3rd Street and in Playa Vista, with a Culver City outpost on the way. L, D (daily). 2049 Sawtelle Blvd., L.A., 310.235.2089 $$ Map K10 YANG CHOW Authentic, fine Mandarin and Szechuan cuisine and an elegant atmosphere have made this restaurant a Chinatown mainstay since the Yun family opened the spot in 1977. Don’t miss the lemon chicken or Slippery Shrimp, which have been featured on Food Network. Outposts recently opened in the Valley and Pasadena. L, D (daily). 819 N. Broadway, downtown, 213.625.0811; 6443 Topanga Canyon Blvd., Canoga Park, 818.347.2610; 3777 E. Colorado Blvd., Pasadena, 626.432.6868 $$ Map G17, west of A1, Q22

Eclectic/Fusion BÄCO MERCAT Chef Josef Centeno draws international praise for his inspired creations. The bäco, a flatbread sandwich, is his signature dish here. Other selections include spicy hamachi crudo. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 408 S. Main St., downtown, 213.687.7000 $$ Map I16 CASSIA Part of restaurateurs Josh Loeb and Zoe Nathan’s burgeoning dining empire, this bustling Southeast Asian-inspired brasserie set inside a 1930s art deco building finds chef Bryant Ng (Spice Table) serving dishes like Vietnamese pot au feu and, on the new lunch menu, an updated version of Ng’s celebrated Spice Table burger. L (M-F), D (nightly). 1314 7th St., Santa Monica, 310.393.6699 $$$ Map L8 MAISON AKIRA Fine French cuisine with Japanese flair (such as a bento box with American wagyu beef, miso sea bass and chawan mushi) in Pasadena’s Playhouse District. Nine-course omakase available. L (F), D (Tu-Su), Br (Su). 713 E. Green St., Pasadena, 626.796.9501 $$$ Map Q20 ORSA & WINSTON Chef/owner Josef Centeno draws on Japanese and Italian traditions at his acclaimed third restaurant. Select a vegetable, fish or meat grain bowl for lunch; for dinner, enjoy a daily changing six-course tasting menu with nightly supplements and an optional wine pairing. L (Tu-F), D (Tu-Sa). 122 W. 4th St., downtown, 213.687.0300 $$$$ Map I16 TROIS MEC The holy foodie trinity of Ludo Lefebvre (LudoBites), Vinny Dotolo and Jon Shook (Animal, Son of a Gun) is behind this hot restaurant in a 24-seat former pizzeria. Diners must purchase advance tickets via the restaurant’s website to enjoy Lefebvre’s prix-fixe, five-course meal. Newer French-bar-style spinoff, Petit Trois, is next door. D (M-F). 716 N. Highland Ave., Hollywood, troismec.com $$$$ Map H13

French AVEC NOUS Contemporary French bistro where chef Olivier Quignon, previously at Bar Boulud in New York City, offers dishes inspired by the French Riviera, such as escargot; sea scallops with mushy broccoli, turmeric chermoula and squid-ink crisp; and whole oven-roasted cauliflower vadouvan curry, served tableside. Br, D (daily). Viceroy L’Ermitage Beverly Hills, 9291 Burton Way, Beverly Hills, 310.860.8660 $$$ Map J12 BOUCHON The Bouchon bistros from chef Thomas Keller (the French Laundry, Per Se) have become popular for their authentic good looks and superbly executed cuisine. L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 235 N. Cañon Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.271.9910 $$$ Map J11 KENDALL’S BRASSERIE Located at the Music Center, Kendall’s is a convenient spot for before or after a performance. In addition to dishes with a contemporary flair, all the brasserie favorites are here (e.g., moules frites). L (M-F), D (Tu-Su), Br (Sa-Su). 135 N. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.972.7322 $$ Map H16

JESUS BANUELOS

PUMP Enchanted-garden-themed restaurant and bar from restaurateur and Real Housewives of Beverly Hills star Lisa Vanderpump features a patio with 100-year-old olive trees and a menu created by Food Network Star finalist Penny Davidi. D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 8948 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.657.7867 $$ Map I12

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DINING

Ye Olde King’s Head

World Famous British Pub, Restaurant, Shoppe & Bakery

THE LITTLE DOOR For a candlelit dinner in an elegant setting, this is the reservation ne plus ultra. Dine on rustic French-Mediterranean dishes under the stars or by a crackling fireplace. D (nightly), Br (SaSu). 8164 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.951.1210 $$$ Map I12 LITTLE NEXT DOOR The Little Door’s charming, casual extension serves modern French brasserie fare and boasts an in-house patisserie featuring viennoiserie, macarons and pastries. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 8142 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.951.1010 $$ Map I12 MÉLISSE At Mélisse, among L.A.’s highest-rated restaurants, chef/owner Josiah Citrin executes a sophisticated, modern French menu filled with luxe ingredients. Start with lobster bolognese with truffles before superb game dishes. D (Tu-Sa). 1104 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.395.0881 $$$$ Map M8 PATINA The Walt Disney Concert Hall pairs classicalmusic offerings with fine dining, thanks to its fine inhouse restaurant. Game dishes are a frequent presence on the menu. D (Tu-Su). 141 S. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.972.3331 $$$$ Map H16

British Fare, imported beers and world famous Fish & Chips. Heated patio. Call for soccer schedule. Stop by the gift shoppe for food and collectibles from the British Isles, including bone china, teapots, souvenir items, tea, candy, wine, freshly baked goods and much more. Open daily for breakfast, lunch & dinner Weekdays 9 am | Weekends 8 am Happy Hour Afternoon Tea Karaoke Trivia Live Soccer

M-F 4-7 pm Mon-Sat 11:30 am-4 pm Su 9 pm Every Wed 8 pm Check Schedule

116 Santa Monica Blvd. Santa Monica (310) 451-1402 www.yeoldekingshead.com

RÉPUBLIQUE In a landmark once occupied by Charlie Chaplin’s studio, fine-dining veteran Walter Manzke and pastry-chef wife Margarita turn out bistro classics (e.g., escargots, duck confit and steak frites) for a trendy clientele huddling at communal tables. Café B, L (daily); Br (Sa-Su). Bistro D (nightly). 624 S. La Brea Ave., L.A., 310.362.6115 $$$ Map I13

Italian ALIMENTO Zach Pollack, half of the talent behind acclaimed Sotto, is behind this tiny, hip space in Silver Lake, where a clever menu features addictive chickenliver crostone with quince mostarda, crudo and pastas. The chef’s contrarian take on tortellini in brodo features dumplings filled with a hot broth that explodes in your mouth. D (Tu-Su). 1710 Silver Lake Blvd., Silver Lake, 323.928.2888 $$$ Map east of W23

We Cal t California Perfection

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BESTIA Multiregional Italian restaurant in the hip Arts District. The former executive chef at Angelini Osteria serves up such “beast”-focused dishes as roasted marrow bone with spinach gnocchetti, breadcrumbs and aged balsamic, and a selection of house-cured meats. D (nightly). 2121 E. 7th Place, downtown, 213.514.5724 $$$ Map east of J17 BOTTEGA LOUIE This palatial Italian restaurant, decked out in white marble, is a hip, noisy hall where young professionals convene over brick-oven-cooked pizzas and portobello fries. There’s a gourmet market and patisserie, too. B, L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 700 S. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.802.1470 $$ Map I16 CECCONI’S This London-based restaurant caters to well-heeled clients who schmooze over bellinis and cicchetti (small plates). Pastas including a beautiful agnolotti del plin and seafood such as grilled octopus with capers are well-executed. B, L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 8764 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 310.432.2000 $$$ Map I12

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CULINA A contemporary take on regional Italian cuisine is the theme at Culina, where ample coastal inspirations are evident on the menu. The modern design includes a sleek crudo bar and new Vinoteca, an Italianinspired wine and espresso-bar concept. B, L (M-Sa); D (nightly); Br (Su). Four Seasons Hotel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills, 300 S. Doheny Drive, L.A., 310.860.4000 $$$ Map J12 DRAGO CENTRO Chef Celestino Drago’s well-executed Italian fare and extensive wine list are presented in a contemporary and handsome space. L (M-F), D (nightly). 525 S. Flower St., downtown, 213.228.8998 $$$ Map H16

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DINING

THE FACTORY KITCHEN Former Valentino chef Angelo Auriana turns his attention to a casual, industrialchic setting in the Arts District. Fresh-made pastas, beautiful cheeses and cured meats, complemented by an inventive cocktail program, contribute to a daily changing menu. L (M-F), D (nightly). 1300 Factory Place, downtown, 213.996.6000 $$$ Map J17 GUSTO Victor Casanova’s intimate neighborhood ristorante has a look and feel reminiscent of his native Bronx. Dishes such as polpette (pork meatballs) plated over chilled, whipped ricotta and fresh-made pastas deserve praise. D (nightly). 8432 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.782.1778 $$$ Map I13 IL FORNAIO Trattoria-style favorite. Beverly Hills: B, L, D (daily). Manhattan Beach: L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). Pasadena: L, D (daily); Br (Su). 301 N. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.550.8330; 1800 Rosecrans Ave., Manhattan Beach, 310.725.9555; 24 W. Union St., Pasadena, 626.683.9797 $$ Map J11, L13, Q19

MATSUHISA Superchef Nobu Matsuhisa’s more modest original flagship incorporates luxurious Western ingredients and Latin American spices. Monkfish liver pâté with caviar, and lamb chops with miso anticucho sauce are just a couple of his creations. L (M-F), D (nightly). 129 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.659.9639 $$$$ Map I12

RAO’S New York’s highly exclusive, family-owned eatery—a legendary celeb and mob hangout—goes Hollywood. Red-sauce specialties galore; the veal meatballs are a Rao’s signature. D (nightly). 1006 Seward St., Hollywood, 323.962.7267 $$$$ Map H13

N/NAKA Offerings are crafted in the kaiseki Japanese culinary tradition, with both classic and modern interpretations. The 13-course menus are prepared with produce from N/Naka’s organic garden; there is an extensive sake and wine list as well. Chef/owner Niki Nakayama was one of six chefs featured in the Netflix documentary series Chef’s Table. D (W-Sa). 3455 S. Overland Ave., L.A., 310.836.6252 $$$$ Map L11

SOTTO This restaurant specializes in regionally inspired Italian cooking, including beautifully executed rustic trattoria dishes; soft, chewy Neapolitan pizzas cooked in an eight-ton wood-burning oven; and intriguing housemade pastas. D (nightly). 9575 W. Pico Blvd., L.A., 310.277.0210 $$$ Map J11 TERRONI Southern Italian cooking including excellent thin-crust pizza. The downtown location inhabits a historic bank building. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 802 S. Spring St., downtown, 213.221.7234; 7605 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 323.954.0300 $$ Map I16, J13 VALENTINO For more than 30 years, Piero Selvaggio has maintained his flagship’s status as a pre-eminent temple of Italian gastronomy. A telephone-book-sized wine list—often cited as America’s best—is supported by a cellar containing more than 100,000 bottles. L (F), D (Tu-Sa). 3115 Pico Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.829.4313 $$$$ Map L9 VILLA BLANCA Stylish white dining room and Asianaccented menu from reality star Lisa Vanderpump. L, D (daily). 9601 Brighton Way, Beverly Hills, 310.859.7600 $$$ Map J11

Japanese

JON & VINNY’S Family-friendly diner from chefs/ owners Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo has it all—pastries, pizza, pasta (made in-house) and meat entrées. Takeout and delivery are also available. B, L, D (daily). 412 N. Fairfax Ave., L.A., 323.334.3369 $$ Map B2

ASANEBO Hidden in a strip mall but Michelin-rated, this cozy sushi bar and restaurant offers memorable sushi and inventive fare like seared toro and uni tempura in shiso leaf. L (Tu-F), D (Tu-Su). 11941 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, 818.760.3348 $$ Map A1

LA VECCHIA CUCINA Rustic northern Italian in a laid-back bistro. More than a dozen pastas for dinner, plus pizzas, osso buco alla Romana and other traditional favorites. L, D (daily). 2654 Main St., Santa Monica, 310.399.7979 $$ Map M8

ISE-SHIMA Located in the Miyako Hybrid Hotel in Old Town Torrance, Ise-Shima provides fresh sushi and other exciting Japanese dishes, recalling the array of seafood and marine delicacies Japan’s Ise Shima region offers. The expansive restaurant consists of a sushi bar, lounge space, large communal table and terrace. B, L, D (daily). 21381 S. Western Ave., Torrance, 310.320.6700 $$ Map M14

LOCANDA DEL LAGO Rustic family-owned restaurant overlooking Third Street Promenade. Chef Daniele Turchetti turns out traditional northern Italian cuisine made with sustainable proteins and locally sourced ingredients. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 231 Arizona Ave., Santa Monica, 310.451.3525 $$ Map L8 MATTEO’S An old favorite of the Rat Pack endures. Classic dishes include mussels in white wine and osso buco Milanese. D (Tu-Su). 2321 Westwood Blvd., L.A., 310.475.4521 $$ Map K10 MI PIACE This Italian kitchen/bakery/lounge in the heart of Old Pasadena has been serving up fresh, light Italian cooking with a New York accent for over 25 years. B, L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 25 E. Colorado Blvd., Pasadena, 626.795.3131 $$ Map Q19 OSTERIA MOZZA Famed L.A.-based bread maker Nancy Silverton teamed up with affable Mario Batali on Mozza’s duo of contemporary Italian restaurants. Osteria Mozza is a more sophisticated dining room in which to experience the repertoire of these great transcontinental talents. D (nightly). 6602 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.297.0100 $$$ Map H13 PIZZERIA MOZZA/MOZZA2GO The more relaxed sibling of Nancy Silverton and Mario Batali’s Mozza,

KABUKI JAPANESE RESTAURANT Fun, casual atmosphere and more than 200 items from which to choose, including extensive vegetarian and gluten-free options, plus a great happy hour. 13 locations in Southern California. L, D (daily). 201 N. San Fernando Blvd., Burbank, 818.843.7999; 1545 N. Vine St., Hollywood, 323.464.6003; 6081 Center Drive, L.A., 310.641.5524; 88 W. Colorado Blvd., Pasadena, 626.568.9310; 3539 E. Foothill Blvd., Pasadena, 626.351.8963; 20940 Ventura Blvd., Woodland Hills, 818.704.8700 $$ Map T23, H14, N11, Q19, Q22, west of A1 KATANA Robata-style cuisine: open-flame-grilled meat, vegetables, seafood on skewers. Stylish rooms, patio. D (nightly). 8439 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 323.650.8585 $$$ Map H12 KATSUYA Sushi chef Katsuya Uechi turns out exotic delicacies in sultry spaces by designer Philippe Starck. L (varies by location), D (nightly). 11777 San Vicente Blvd., Brentwood, 310.207.8744; 6300 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.871.8777; 702 Americana Way, Glendale, 818.244.5900; L.A. Live, 800 W. Olympic Blvd., downtown, 213.747.9797 $$$ Map K9, H14, northeast of T23, I15

NOBU The flagship of chef Nobu Matsuhisa offers an extensive menu of traditional and avant-garde sushi, including many dishes with beguiling Peruvian accents. West Hollywood: D (nightly). Malibu: L, D (daily). 903 N. La Cienega Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.657.5711; Nobu Malibu, 22706 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu, 310.317.9140 $$$$ Map H12, east of A1 Q The omakase-only experience at this intimate sushi bar showcases the artistry and discipline of chef/owner Hiroyuki Naruke in items like monkfish as rich as foie gras. L (Tu-F), D (Tu-Sa). 521 W. 7th St., downtown, 213.225.6285 $$$$ Map I16 ROBATA BAR Japanese grilling from the Sushi Roku, Katana and Boa team. Striking design by Dodd Mitchell. D (nightly). 1401 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica, 310.458.4771 $$$ Map L8 ROKU Sunset Strip hot spot from the team behind Sushi Roku presents elevated teppanyaki prepared at interactive grill tables, as well as sushi, omakase offerings and an extensive selection of Japanese whiskeys. L (M-F), D (nightly). 9201 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.278.2060 $$$ Map H12 SUSHI ROKU Nouvelle Japanese, sleek decor and a creative menu. For foodies 10 and under, Sushi Roku Pasadena offers a fun “okosama” kids’ menu with four bento-box options. L, D (daily). 1401 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica, 310.458.4771; 33 Miller Alley, Pasadena, 626.683.3000 $$$ Map L8, Q19 URASAWA If you’re serious about sushi, make a date to sit at Urasawa’s bar. Here you’ll be treated to an incredible omakase dinner—don’t even ask about price—that features exquisite, artfully presented sushi, sashimi and shabu-shabu dishes. Reservation required. D (Tu-Sa). 218 N. Rodeo Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.247.8939 $$$$ Map I11

Mediterranean A.O.C. Mediterranean-inspired pioneer of two L.A. culinary trends: the small-plates format and the wine bar. Chef/owner Suzanne Goin offers addictive bacon-wrapped, Parmesan-stuffed dates and an excellent selection of cheeses and cured meats from a charcuterie bar. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 8700 W. 3rd St., L.A., 310.859.9859 $$ Map I12 THE BELVEDERE The Peninsula Beverly Hills’ elegant restaurant has a modernized interior, a new terrace and a Mediterranean menu from executive chef David Codney. Menu favorites include Dover sole, taramasalata and beautiful desserts. The extravagant, seafood-centric Nicolas Feuillatte Champagne brunch is a don’t-miss. B, L, D (daily); Br (Su). 9882 S. Santa Monica Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.788.2306 $$$$ Map J11 BOWERY BUNGALOW Restaurateur George Abou-Daoud honors his Middle Eastern heritage here by applying exotic Silk Road flavors to all-American concepts like Southern baby-back ribs. D (Tu-Su), Br (Sa-Su). 4156 Santa Monica Blvd., Silver Lake, 323.663.1500 $$ Map south of W23

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Pizzeria Mozza features pizzas with Mediterranean ingredients, cheeses and salumi plates and rustic daily specials. Call ahead for delivery or takeout from Mozza2Go. L, D (daily). Pizzeria Mozza: 641 N. Highland Ave., L.A., 323.297.0101; Mozza2Go: 6610 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.297.1130 $$ Map H13

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DINING CROSSROADS KITCHEN Chef/partner Tal Ronnen creates exclusively plant-based dishes, many based on nonvegan comfort classics. Try the “crab cake,” the attractive artichoke “oysters” topped with crispy oyster mushrooms or, for brunch, the “chicken” and waffles. The wine list features organic and biodynamic labels. D, Br (daily). 8284 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 323.782.9245 $$$ Map H12 ESTÉREL The redesigned restaurant at the Sofitel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills features lovely indoor and outdoor seating areas and farm-to-fork Mediterranean fare. B, L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 8555 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 310.358.3979 $$$ Map I12 FIG & OLIVE New York-based restaurant’s cuisine is an ode to olive oil. Don’t miss the paella del mar and the Provence roasted chicken. L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (SaSu). 8490 Melrose Place, L.A., 310.360.9100 $$$ Map I12 GJELINA Under the direction of talented young chef Travis Lett, Cal-Med small plates and pizzas are served to chic Westsiders. It’s one of Venice’s most popular restaurants and the neighborhood’s most lively patio. B (M-F); L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 1429 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 310.450.1429 $$ Map N9

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LUCQUES Chef/owner Suzanne Goin delivers the next generation of Cal-Med cuisine, which includes dishes such as grilled club steak for two with potatoes parisienne. Nowhere do vegetables taste as good! L (TuSa), D (nightly). 8474 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 323.655.6277 $$$ Map I13 MAMA SHELTER Mediterranean menus at this hip hotel’s dining venues are helmed by chef Gerard Sampson, formerly of Laurel Hardware. The new rooftop menu features such shareable plates as mummara (roasted red-pepper dip with walnuts), falafel and shawarma platters. Restaurant B, L, D (daily); Br (Su). Rooftop D (daily). 6500 Selma Ave., Hollywood, 323.785.6600 $$$ Map H14 PETROS Fine contemporary-Greek fare in a cool white dining room or on the covered patio. Dress code for indoor diners. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 451 Manhattan Beach Blvd., Manhattan Beach, 310.545.4100 $$$ Map L13

Mexican/Latin BROKEN SPANISH The upscale sister of B.S. Taqueria, this “modern Mexican” restaurant near L.A. Live serves classically trained chef Ray Garcia’s innovative twists on traditional dishes. D (nightly). 1050 S. Flower St., Suite 102, downtown, 213.749.1460 $$$ Map I15 B.S. TAQUERIA The colorful setting at this Ray Garcia-helmed spot—a casual sibling of Broken Spanish, above—offers the right vibe for lemon-pepper chicken chicharrones or clam-and-lardo tacos. A B.S. Taqueria concession stand serving tacos and churros recently debuted at Staples Center. L (M-F), D (nightly). 514 W. 7th St., L.A., 213.622.3744 $$ Map H15

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DÍA DE CAMPO Part of Blackhouse Hospitality (Little Sister, Abigaile, Steak & Whisky), this restaurant offers innovative Mexican dishes like chocolate-duck quesadillas, chorizo-stuffed dates and wood-grilled lobster with chili butter in a sexy surf-lodge setting. D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 1238 Hermosa Ave., Hermosa Beach, 310.379.1829 $$ Map L13 GRACIAS MADRE Organic, plant-based Mexican fare is served at this beautiful restaurant (the patio’s ambiance can’t be beat) from the team behind Cafe Gratitude. Inventive dishes like coconut ceviche tostadas or flautas de papas filled with sweet potatoes and cashew nacho cheese please vegans and omnivores alike. L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 8905 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 323.978.2170 $$ Map I12

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DINING MEXICANO Indoor-outdoor restaurant in the Baldwin Hills Crenshaw shopping center is run by James Beard Award-nominated chefs Jaime Martin Del Campo and Ramiro Arvizu. Try the poblano mole, a house specialty. L, D (Tu-Su). 3650 W. Martin Luther King Blvd., L.A., 323.296.0798 $$$ Map northeast of M12 PETTY CASH TAQUERIA Chef Walter Manzke’s “semi-authentic taqueria” serves Mexican street food (e.g., tacos, ceviche) featuring local, seasonal ingredients and refined technique. L (W-Su), D (nightly). 7360 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 323.933.5300 $$ Map I13 RED O Rick Bayless, one of America’s leading authorities on Mexican cuisine, is consulting chef at these sexy eateries, where creative dishes are grounded in tradition. WeHo: D (nightly). Santa Monica: L (SaSu), D (daily). 8155 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 323.655.5009; 1541 Ocean Ave., Suite 120, Santa Monica, 310.458.1600 $$$ Map I12, L8 TORTILLA REPUBLIC This casual-chic WeHo restaurant serves up modern Mexican cuisine made with unusual ingredients and rich in flavor. Sidle up to the white onyx bar or enjoy alfresco dining on the large patio. L (Tu-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 616 N. Robertson Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.657.9888 $$ Map I12

Pan-Asian CRUSTACEAN A glass-covered koi-filled stream meanders under the bar at this Cal-Vietnamese eatery, and diners indulge in items from a “secret kitchen” in which only the owners’ family members and select longtime staff members are allowed. The garlic noodles are a signature. L (M-F), D (nightly). 9646 S. Santa Monica Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.205.8990 $$$ Map I11

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THE DISTRICT BY HANNAH AN One of the celebrated An sisters—her family introduced Crustacean, above—celebrates her Vietnamese heritage with a cuisine that reflects authenticity while incorporating California sensibilities. Dishes like lobster with handmade noodles and Vietnamese chicken curry are enjoyed with cocktails infused with Southeast Asian flavors. L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 8722 W. 3rd St., L.A., 310.278.2345 $$$ Map I12 LITTLE SISTER At these trendy spots from young chef Tin Vuong, sophisticated accents are added to panAsian cuisine, as evidenced in signatures like deep-fried Balinese meatballs with banana ketchup, Myanmar okra curry and salt-and-pepper lobster. M.B.: L (F-Su), D (nightly). Downtown: B, L, D (daily). 1131 Manhattan Ave., Manhattan Beach, 310.545.2096; 523 W. 7th St., downtown, 213.628.3146 $$ Map L13, I16 LUKSHON Sang Yoon of Father’s Office is behind this Southeast Asian eatery with a selection of craft beers and Far East-inspired cocktail program. The crispy whole market fish is not to be missed. L (Tu-F), D (Tu-Sa). 3239 Helms Ave., Culver City, 310.202.6808 $$$ Map K12 SIMBAL This tricky-to-find Little Tokyo spot, from chef Shawn Pham (the French Laundry, Craft, the Bazaar by José Andrés), offers a cuisine that combines the best of Ho Chi Minh City’s food stalls with sophisticated technique and Pham’s playful attitude. Don’t miss the bar’s creative cocktails. D (Tu-Sa). 3319 E. 2nd St., Suite 202, downtown, 213.626.0244 $$$ Map H17 WP24 From its 24th-floor roost, WP24 proves that Wolfgang Puck, who pioneered Asian fusion, has still got the goods. Highlights include XO seafood dumplings and steamed bao filled with pork belly. Restaurant /lounge concept Nest at WP24 is adjacent. Dining room D (Tu-Sa). Nest D (nightly). Ritz-Carlton, Los Angeles, 900 W. Olympic Blvd., downtown, 213.743.8824 $$$$ Map I15

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DINING

Seafood

PRIME STEAKS. LEGENDARY SERVICE. SLS Hotel at Beverly Hills 310-246-1501

Burbank

FISHING WITH DYNAMITE David LeFevre, a Water Grill alum, loads his menu with East Coast inspirations, as well as some innovative dishes. Among the old-school small plates in this tiny, charming restaurant are New England-style clam chowder with Nueske’s bacon and Maryland blue-crab cakes with house-made pickles and remoulade. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 1148 Manhattan Ave., Manhattan Beach, 310.893.6299 $$$ Map L13

3400 West Olive Ave. 818-238-0424

Los Angeles

735 South Figueroa St. 213-553-4566

THE HUNGRY CAT East Coast fare in hip little spots. Dine on dishes such as crab cakes or chilled crab legs and you-peel or they-peel shrimp by the halfpound. Hollywood: L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). Santa Monica: D (Tu-Su). Sunset + Vine, 1535 N. Vine St., Hollywood, 323.462.2155; 100 W. Channel Road, Santa Monica, 310.459.3337 $$ Map H14, L7

Costa Mesa

1641 W. Sunflower Ave. 714-444-4834

PROVIDENCE Chef/owner Michael Cimarusti (who’s also behind Connie and Ted’s and new fish shop Cape Seafood and Provisions) transforms sustainable seafood from the world’s most pristine waters into oft-changing dishes. Outstanding cocktails complement Michelinrecognized cuisine. L (F), D (nightly). 5955 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.460.4170 $$$$ Map I14

Woodland Hills

6250 Canoga Ave. 818-703-7272

Anaheim

SON OF A GUN Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo, the meat-loving chefs at Animal, turn to the sea for new inspiration. They cook up small shareable plates, such as miniature lobster rolls and shrimp-toast sandwiches, in a nautically themed space. L, D (daily). 8370 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.782.9033 $$$ Map I12

1895 South Harbor Blvd. 714-621-0101

mortons.com

T H A I

C U I S I N E

CAFE DEL REY Ogle impressive pleasure boats in the marina at this waterfront restaurant with plentiful fresh catch, a raw bar and prime cuts of steak. Stop in for its great nightly happy hour, too. L (M–F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 4451 Admiralty Way, Marina del Rey, 310.823.6395 $$$ Map N9 ENTERPRISE FISH CO. Established in 1979, this restaurant is a local favorite when it comes to seafood. Wild-caught fish, fresh seafood and steaks are cooked over a mesquite charcoal grill in an exhibition kitchen set in the middle of the dining room. L, D (daily). 174 Kinney St., Santa Monica, 310.392.8366 $$$ Map M9

435 S. LaCienega Blvd.

NATALE E

BLUE PLATE OYSTERETTE Putting a “California twist on East Hampton summer lobster bakes,” this casual-yet-stylish restaurant has locations by the pier in Santa Monica and inland on West 3rd Street. 3rd Street: D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). Santa Monica: B, L, D (daily). 8048 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.656.5474; 355 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica, 310.576.3474 $$$ Map I12, L8

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Venice (310) 202-7003 10101 Venice Blvd. Full Bar | Sushi Bar Beverly Hills (310) 855-9380 998 S. Robertson Blvd. Full Bar | Valet Parking

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BAR PINTXO Spanish tapas bar around the corner from the Santa Monica Pier offers authentic tortilla española, paella, croquetas de jamón and Spanish wines. L, D (daily). 109 Santa Monica Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.458.2012 $$ Map M8 THE BAZAAR BY JOSÉ ANDRÉS Star chef José Andrés brings a whimsical set of Spanish-style dining experiences to the eminently stylish SLS Hotel. Cuisine ranges from rustic fare to the cutting-edge culinary creations that have made Spain a culinary leader. Tasting room Saam offers an unforgettable 20-pluscourse prix-fixe menu. Dining room D (nightly). Saam D (Th-Sa). 465 S. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.246.5555 $$$ Map H16 SMOKE.OIL.SALT Authentic, traditional, shareable Spanish cuisine (albondigas al horno, charcuteria de iberico) served in a lively location on Melrose. More than 130 bottles of wines, sparkling cavas and sherries, plus 30 wines by the glass. D (nightly). 7274 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.930.7900 $$ Map I13

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DINING

west hollywood’s sexiest bar & restaurant by lisa vanderpump

Steak ALEXANDER’S STEAKHOUSE This ultraluxurious interpretation of the classic American steakhouse incorporates Asian influences. Certified Angus beef and one of L.A.’s widest selections of domestic and imported wagyu star on the menu. New Bull & Barrel bar concept offers the menu plus an expanded, whiskeyforward cocktail menu and social-hour food menu with specialty items. D (nightly). 111 N. Los Robles Ave., Pasadena, 626.486.1111 $$$ Map Q20 THE ARTHUR J This swanky Manhattan Beach steakhouse, helmed by chef David LeFevre (M.B. Post, Fishing With Dynamite), offers a classic menu that will delight any carnivore, but the seafood dishes and sides-with-a-twist are excellent as well. Sit in the midcentury-inspired, spacious dining room or at the bar. D (nightly). 903 Manhattan Ave., Manhattan Beach, 310.878.9620 $$$$ Map C2 BALTAIRE Helmed by executive chef Travis Strickland, this sophisticated Brentwood restaurant offers prime steaks, wines by the glass, old-school charm and sunor-star dining on its 2,500-square-foot terrace—perhaps best enjoyed with the Baltaire Julep cocktail in hand. “BBQ, Blues & Brews” menu served in the bar and lounge Monday nights. L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 11647 San Vicente Blvd., L.A., 424.273.1660 $$$$ Map J12 BOA Way hip, way fine steakhouse. Steak rubs and dips; out-there cocktails. Santa Monica: L, D (daily). West Hollywood: L (M-F), D (nightly). 101 Santa Monica Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.899.4466; 9200 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.278.2050 $$$ Map M8, H12 THE GRILL ON THE ALLEY The Grill is a venerable industry hangout, where polished waiters deliver steaks, Cobb salads and other old-school fare to Hollywood heavyweights in a dining room with classic good looks. Beverly Hills: L (M-Sa), D (nightly). Hollywood, Westlake Village: L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 9560 Dayton Way, Beverly Hills, 310.276.0615; the Grill on Hollywood, Hollywood & Highland, 6801 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.856.5530; 120 E. Promenade Way, Westlake Village, 805.418.1760 $$$ Map I11, H13, west of A1 MASTRO’S OCEAN CLUB At this on-the-waterfront eatery—the views are pure Malibu—starters like ahi tartare, lobster cocktail and caviar service are followed by fresh fish, whole Maine lobster or expertly prepared steaks. D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 18412 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu, 310.454.4357 $$$$ Map west of K7 MORTON’S Clubby ambiance, show-and-tell menu, huge portions. Beverly Hills, Woodland Hills: D (nightly). Downtown, Burbank: L (M-F), D (nightly). 435 S. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.246.1501; 6250 Canoga Ave., Woodland Hills, 818.703.7272; 735 S. Figueroa St., downtown, 213.553.4566; the Pinnacle, 3400 W. Olive Ave., Burbank, 818.238.0424 $$$ Map I11, west of A1, I16, T20

RESTAURANT & BAR MON-FRI 5PM-2AM SAT-SUN 11:30AM-2AM LA’S BEST SATURDAY & SUNDAY BRUNCH! HAPPY HOUR FRI & SAT 4-6PM SUN-THURS 5-7PM

8948 SANTA MONICA BLVD WEST HOLLYWOOD, CA 90069 310.657.PUMP (7867) WWW.PUMPRESTAURANT.COM

NICK + STEF’S A modern interpretation of the classic American steakhouse, Bunker Hill institution Nick + Stef’s is a midcentury-modern vision in hues of coral, blue and caramel with brass touches. The menu includes showstopping meat dishe as well as an expanded seafood menu. USDA Prime beef is aged on-site in a glass-encased aging chamber. L (M-F), D (nightly). Wells Fargo Building, 330 S. Hope St., downtown, 213.680.0330 $$$ Map H16 PISTOLA The sister restaurant to Victor Casanova’s Gusto gives classic Italian steakhouse fare a modern twist. Enjoy classic dishes such as shrimp scampi, dry-aged Delmonico steak and bone-in veal chop in an elegant space with a sleek, 1950s New York feel. D (Tu-Sa). 8022 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.951.9800 $$$ Map I13

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DINING

SOMETHING FOR

EVERYONE THE SEARCH FOR GREATNESS IS OVER

LUNCH • DINNER • HAPPY HOUR

STEAK & WHISKY Rustic meets modern at this South Bay spot from chef/partner Tin Vuong and partner Jed Sanford of Blackhouse Hospitality Management. A blend of cultural influences updates American classics like traditional porterhouse and dry-aged beef. D (nightly). 117 Pier Ave., Hermosa Beach, 310.318.5555 $$$$ Map L13 THE STINKING ROSE True to its motto, “We season our garlic with food,” this Restaurant Row mainstay offers eclectic, garlicky menu options including 40-Clove Garlic Chicken, Silence of the Lamb Shank and Dungeness Killer Crab. Premium steak options include Little Devil Petite Filet. Pianist Gary Sherer performs Th-Sa evenings in the Gar Bar. L, D (daily). 55 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.652.7673 $$ Map I12 STK The One Group’s renowned steakhouse has a sleek new L.A. home. Expect signature savory steaks, shellfish platters and jalapeño-cheddar grits, as well as new dishes such as seared foie gras with spiced rum, and crispy lobster tails. D (nightly). W Los Angeles—West Beverly Hills, 930 Hilgard Ave., L.A., 310.659.3535 $$$ Map J10

Thai JITLADA THAI The wait for a table is long at this top-rated restaurant in East Hollywood’s Thai Town, but the Southern Thai specialties, such as moo mae chan (grilled pork Southern-style with papaya salad and sticky rice), are authentic and exceptional. L, D (Tu-Su). 5233 1/2 Sunset Blvd., L.A., 323.667.9809 $$ Map W22

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NATALEE THAI Traditional Thai dishes are served amid edgy, modern decor. Among entrées are Nutty Chicken (a spicy combo of chicken, onion and dried chilies) and a sole filet in red curry sauce. Veggie lovers favor the spicy maha jumlong curry. L, D (daily). 10101 Venice Blvd., Culver City, 310.202.7003; 998 S. Robertson Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.855.9380 $ Map L11, I11 NIGHT + MARKET For authentic Thai food, head to either the WeHo or Silver Lake location (the latter is Night + Market Song) of this hip spot from L.A.born chef Kris Yenbamroong. Celebrity diners include Gwyneth Paltrow and Lena Dunham. A third location, Night + Market Sahm, is due open at 2533 Lincoln Blvd. in Venice any day now. WeHo: L (Tu-Th), D (Tu-Su). Silver Lake: L (M-F), D (M-Sa). 9043 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.275.9724; 3322 W. Sunset Blvd., L.A., 323.665.5899 $$ Map I12, south of W23 PALMS THAI This spot near the Pantages theater is known more for its entertainment than its cooking, but both are worth the trip. Kavee Thongprecha, “the Thai Elvis,” does campy interpretations of the King’s repertory. Unusual menu items include frog legs with chili and basil. L, D (daily). 5900 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.462.5073 $ Map H14 POK POK LA The menu at this 200-seat Mandarin Plaza restaurant from award-winning chef Andy Ricker is divided into five categories that include drinking food, grilled things and sweet things. Standout items include Ike’s Vietnamese Fish Sauce Wings, sticky with umami. Ricker also works wonders with duck, ribs and vegetables. L, D (daily). 978 N. Broadway, downtown, 213.613.1831 $$ Map G17

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DINE_W

SPECIAL PROMOTION

MENU HIGHLIGHTS Shared Plates Zucchini beignets Albacore tuna crudo Spanish octopus Braised pork belly Seared scallops Macaroni gratin

ESTÉREL RESTAURANT Located in the Sofitel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills, the recently redesigned Estérel Restaurant boasts a range of dining settings in which to enjoy executive chef Victor Boroda’s seasonally driven, Mediterraneaninspired cuisine. Guests can sip an aperitif in the French garden patio, Le Jardin, or host a private cocktail party in the Aviary. Two private dining rooms are available, as well; one serves as a chef’s table, where chef Boroda blends French and California cuisines in custom tasting menus. In the open-plan main dining room, high-backed booths and deep blue walls create a sophisticated atmosphere, and an exhibition kitchen with a wood-burning oven provides a show. Additionally, guests can enjoy cocktails created by Frederic Zemmour, Riviera 31 Lounge Bar’s manager and resident mixologist. B,L,D (daily); Br (Su).

Plates Linguine alle vongole Albacore tuna Pan seared steelhead salmon Grass fed filet mignon Le jardin burger Braised lamb shank Poulet rôti

Sofitel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills, 8555 Beverly Blvd., L.A.

310.358.3979 esterelrestaurant.com

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LADINING LOCANDA DEL LAGO Locanda del Lago blends organic produce from the Santa Monica Farmers Market and many other local purveyors with Italian ingredients to create dishes from Northern Italy’s Lombardy region. This family-run restaurant attracts celebrities, foodies, locals and travelers with its authentic and traditional recipes. Dishes feature high-quality meats and pastas such as all-natural Niman Ranch veal shank, salt baked wild sea bass, housemade ravioli and home-made buckwheat pappardelle. A full vegetarian menu is also available. Enjoy the breads, desserts and gelato, made in-house daily. The warm interior and sidewalk patio overlooking the bustling Third Street Promenade also offers a daily happy hour that features specialty cocktails and local and Italian wines. B (Su), L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 231 Arizona Ave., Santa Monica 310.451.3525 • lagosantamonica.com

THE STINKING ROSE— A GARLIC RESTAURANT The Stinking Rose has been a mainstay on the dining scene since 1996. The restaurant’s latest addition is a supplemental Garlic Stake menu, which includes such premium beef specialties as the Little Devil petite filet mignon, Dracula’s Porterhouse (a carnivore’s dream of the perfectly prepared cut, with New York and filet mignon cooked separately), a bone-in filet mignon and the newest addition, a ribeye steak. The Gar Bar is the perfect setting to enjoy an evening of standards and pop songs performed by piano man Gary Sherer, who tickles the ivories Thursday through Saturday nights. Settle into a cozy booth or find a seat at the bar and enjoy an evening of fine food and pure entertainment. L, D (daily). 55 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills 310.652.7673 • thestinkingrose.com

MATTEO’S RESTAURANT Frequented in its early days by celebs including Frank Sinatra and the rest of the Rat Pack, Matteo’s Restaurant has redefined its look and cuisine while maintaining its status as the epitome of classic cool. Now in its 50th year, Matteo’s continues to offer unique seasonal fare in a homey and hip setting. Executive chef Antonio Orlando’s menu features sumptuous, cosmopolitan Italian fare like veal tartufato, lamb and weekly game specials. Happy hour specials Tuesday through Friday and on Sunday include half-off drinks and a $7-and-under bar menu. Gluten-free and vegetarian options also available. For lunch, visit adjacent cafe Hoboken, open weekdays. D (Tu-Su).

2321 Westwood Blvd., L.A. 310.475.4521 • matteosla.com

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

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LADINING IL FORNAIO Il Fornaio’s award-winning authentic Italian cuisine is a favorite in Los Angeles. Specialties include housemade pastas, wood-fired pizza, grilled fish, authentic risotto and rotisserie meats. Fresh pastas are made daily. Each month a special menu from a different region of Italy is featured. With an event coordinator on-site to handle all of your needs, Il Fornaio is the perfect location for special events and business functions. Repeat recipient of The Wine Spectator’s “Award of Excellence.”

301 N. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills • 310.550.8330 1800 Rosecrans Ave., Manhattan Beach • 310.725.9555 24 West Union St., Pasadena • 626.683.9797 6320 Topanga Canyon Blvd., Woodland Hills • 818.297.1700 ilfornaio.com

BLUE PLATE OYSTERETTE Classic New England clam shack meets California-chic bistro at Blue Plate Oysterette, the popular sister location to the seaside Santa Monica staple. A covered patio, large (fully stocked) bar and fresh modern interior by Tim Clarke Design offer ample seating and views into an open kitchen, where dishes such as oysters on the half shell, New England steamers, lobster rolls, Jonah crab cakes and lobster mac and cheese are prepared using seafood flown in from the East and West coasts. Enjoy the local scene, and relax with friends over bloody marys, spiked blueberry lemonades, French toast and smoked-salmon Benedicts during the weekend brunch. Show your receipt for taking Uber or Lyft to the restaurant and receive $7 off your bill. Mention Where LA for a complementary key lime pie. D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 8048 W. 3rd Street, L.A. 323.656.5474 • blueplatewest3rd.com

ENTERPRISE FISH CO. Serving fresh seafood since 1979, Enterprise Fish Co. is housed in a historic brick building that was renovated to resemble the quintessential wharfside eateries found along the Pacific Coast. Vintage photos of Venice Beach and other seaside locations on the walls set the beachy mood, as does the aquarium you pass by when entering. The restaurant’s open kitchen, set in the middle of the dining room, allows patrons to witness the catch of the day being cooked on a unique mesquite grill. Alternately, diners can eat alfresco on the cozy heated patio. The menu features favorites like wild-caught fish, Maine lobster and king crab legs, but don’t miss the steaks and decadent desserts. It’s no wonder Enterprise Fish Co. was voted locally as the No. 1 seafood restaurant in the area. Daily happy hour 4-7 pm. L, D (daily). 174 Kinney St., Santa Monica 310.392.8366 • enterprisefishcosantamonica.com

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

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T h e G u i d e | E n t e r ta i n m e n t

STREET FOOD CINEMA Oct. 1, 8, 15, 22, 29 Outdoor film series keeps the party going into the fall, screening classic horror flicks—think: Scream, Poltergeist and The Shining—every Saturday this month, complemented by live music and food from the city’s top trucks. See website for a full schedule and times. $6-$21, under 6 free. 323.254.5068, streetfoodcinema.com Only in Hollywood Music + Arts Festival Oct. 6-8 This second annual festival—a walkable neighborhood open house—features musical performances, comedy shows and pop-up art galleries showcasing established and up-and-coming Hollywood talent at dozens of local venues. The fest includes a mix of free and ticketed events. Along Hollywood, Sunset and Cahuenga boulevards, Vine Street and Selma Avenue, L.A., onlyinhollywood.org Map H14

Getting in Character The California Science Center has always had a knack for making learning fun. Now the museum is merging science with popular animated films in what’s sure to be a winning combination. The Science Behind Pixar Exhibition has its West Coast premiere on Oct. 15, providing an interactive look at the computer-animation giant’s moviemaking magic. Visitors can explore the science, technology, engineering and math concepts behind the Pixar process through hands-on activities and learn how artists and computer scientists bring the company’s award-winning films to life. Full-size re-creations of beloved characters like Buzz Lightyear, Dory, WALL-E and Monster Inc.’s Mike and Sulley let little ones feel like a part of Pixar’s animated world. $9.95$14.95, under 4 free. p. 77

Vegan Oktoberfest Oct. 15 Those who steer clear of animal products but don’t want to miss out on the month’s Bavarian boozy fun, raise a stein to this vegan event. Find entertainment; German-themed food from such vendors as Grilled Cheese Truck, Dogtown Dogs and Donut Friend; and unlimited sampling of beer and cider from the likes of Angel City Brewery, the Dudes’ Brewing Co. and Honest Abe Cider. 1-5:30 pm (VIP admission at noon). Alcohol served until 4:30 pm. $45-$50; nondrinking $20-$25; VIP $65-$75. Tickets only available online. L.A. Center Studios, 450 S. Bixel St., downtown, veganoktoberfest.com Map H16 Veuve Clicquot Polo Classic, Los Angeles Oct. 15 This year marks the seventh annual Los Angeles edition of this classy, celebrity-frequented sporting event in Pacific Palisades. Picnic, sip Champagne and see professional polo at its best. Event is 21+. 11 am-5 pm; match starts at 2 pm. $75-$400. Ticket purchase includes shuttle transportation between dedicated lot and event grounds. All tickets must be purchased through Eventbrite. Will Rogers State Historic Park, 1501 Will Rogers State Park Road, Pacific Palisades, veuveclicquot.tumblr.com Map J8 beverly hills artshow Oct. 15-16 This long-running outdoor art showcase displays artwork from some 240 exhibitors twice a year. Wine and beer gardens and food trucks are also on-site. 10 am-5 pm. Free. Beverly Gardens Park, along Santa Monica Boulevard from Rodeo to Rexford drives, Beverly Hills, 310.285.6830, beverlyhills.org Map J11 ciclavia—Heart of L.A. Oct. 16 Nearly 6 miles of L.A.’s normally congested streets turn into a car-free park for a walk and bike tour through Boyle Heights, Chinatown, downtown and Westlake during this beloved open-streets event. See website for route details. 9 am-4 pm. Free. 213.355.8500, ciclavia.org Spa week Oct. 17-23 Biannual event sees some of L.A.’s top spas offering signature treatments for just $50. See website for a full roster of participating spas and treatments. 212.352.8098, spaweek.com Brewery Artwalk Oct. 22-23 This biannual art walk takes place in the world’s largest art complex, located inside a former Pabst Blue Ribbon factory. More than 100 resident artists who live in the brewery’s lofts open up their studios to showcase their work. A beer garden and restaurant are also on-site. 11 am-6 pm. Free. 2100 N. Main St., L.A., 323.638.9382, breweryartwalk.com Map east of G17 Lit Crawl Oct. 26 Fourth annual walkable event for book lovers finds 36-plus restaurants, bars, galleries and theaters in North Hollywood’s arts district playing host to over 40 literary happenings. Dine, explore the area and stroll while enjoying readings and performances. The

guidelines Map locators at the end of each listing (Map A3; Map H10, etc.) refer to maps in the back of this issue. Compendium includes editors’ recommendations and advertisers.

index Special Events.................... 74 Studio Tours........................ 77 Theater................................. 74 Museums............................ 77 Music + Dance.................... 75 Shopping Destinations.... 78 Sports.................................... 75 Beaches................................ 79 Attractions.......................... 75 Tours + Transport..............80

night comprises three 45-minute rounds. Check website for schedule. Free. NoHo Arts District, anchored by intersection of Lankershim and Magnolia boulevards, North Hollywood, litcrawlla.org Map T19 oktoberfest Through Oct. 29 You’ll find L.A.’s oldest (since 1968) and largest Oktoberfest at Torrance’s Alpine Village. The German marketplace plays host to traditional Bavarian fun including oompah bands, chicken-dancing, traditional food and beers brewed by Warsteiner. F-Sa 21+, Su all ages. F 6 pm-midnight; Sa 5 pm-midnight (followed by after-party F-Sa); Su 1-6 pm. $8-$20; Dine, Stein, No Line $75; under 13 free. 833 W. Torrance Blvd., Torrance, 310.327.4384, alpinevillagecenter.com Map M15

Theater THrow me on the burnpile and light me up Through Oct. 2 Lucy Alibar, the Oscar-nominated screenwriter behind Beasts of the Southern Wild, spins yarns about a unique childhood that included a run-in with a lecherous goat and Pentecostals on the radio in this play, having its official world premiere here. Kirk Douglas Theatre, 9820 Washington Blvd., Culver City, 213.628.2772 Map L11 Barbecue Through Oct. 16 Award-winning playwright Robert O’Hara’s comedy about a dysfunctional family barbecue that turns into an intervention for a drug-addicted sister gets its West Coast premiere, with a cast including Yvette Cason, Dale Dickey and Frances Fisher. Gil Cates Theater, Geffen Playhouse, 10886 Le Conte Ave., Westwood, 310.208.5454 Map J10 For the Record: Scorsese Through Oct. 16 Subtitled American Crime Requiem, this production explores over 40 years of the legendary Martin Scorsese’s storytelling by bringing his films’ soundtracks (including Goodfellas, The Departed, The Wolf of Wall Street) to life. Wallis Annenberg Center for the Performing Arts, 9390 N. Santa Monica Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.746.4000 Map I11 Ma Rainey’s Black Bottom Through Oct. 16 Phylicia Rashad directs August Wilson’s groundbreaking play—inspired by the real-life Gertrude “Ma” Rainey— which depicts the racism and exploitation in the music industry present during a 1927 recording session in Chicago. Mark Taper Forum, 135 N. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.628.2772 Map H16 A view from the bridge Through Oct. 16 Fresh off recent Tony wins and sold-out runs on Broadway and the West End, this production of Arthur Miller’s play follows a Brooklyn longshoreman obsessed with his 17-year-old niece and his raging jealousy over her love of an immigrant. For a more intimate experience, opt for onstage seating. Ahmanson Theatre, 135 N. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.628.2772 Map H16

The owner of the Hollyhock House in Barnsdall Art Park so disliked the house that she decided to give it away even before it was completed. p. 76

Nicolaus Czarnecki

Special Events

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AT T R A C T I O N S + M U S E U M S

Music + Dance Dorothy Chandler Pavilion Oct. 5, 8, 13, 16 Macbeth, L.A. Opera, conductor James Conlon, director Darko Tresnjak, starring Plácido Domingo. Oct. 21-23 Celebrate Forsythe, featuring San Francisco Ballet, Pacific Northwest Ballet and Houston Ballet. 135 N. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.972.0711 Map H16 The forum Oct. 1 Blink-182 With Special Guests A Day to Remember and All Time Low. Oct. 4 Bad Boy Family Reunion, featuring Puff Daddy, Lil Kim and more. Oct. 8 Dixie Chicks With Special Guest Elle King. Oct. 14 The 1975. Oct. 15-16 Gwen Stefani. Oct. 23 Amy Schumer. Oct. 25-27 Kanye West. Oct. 28 Pepe Aguilar. 3900 W. Manchester Blvd., Inglewood, 310.330.7300 Map O12 hollywood bowl Oct. 1-2 Dolly Parton. Oct. 5 The Lumineers, Rayland Baxter, Børns. Oct. 8-9 Sia With Special Guests Miguel and AlunaGeorge. Oct. 10 Dixie Chicks, Elle King. Oct. 13 Van Morrison With Special Guest Tom Jones. Oct. 14-15 Kygo. Oct. 23 Bon Iver, Patti Smith, Hiss Golden Messenger. Oct. 28-30 Tim Burton’s The Nightmare Before Christmas Live With Danny Elfman. 2301 N. Highland Ave., Hollywood, 323.850.2000, hollywoodbowl.com Map G13 WALT DISNEY CONCERT HALL Oct. 1 Noon to Midnight, featuring 12 world-premiere works performed by various music ensembles throughout the venue; Green Umbrella: Four World Premieres, featuring L.A. Phil New Music Group, conductor John Adams. Oct. 2 Gustavo Dudamel and Yefim Bronfman, featuring Los Angeles Philharmonic. Oct. 4 Chamber Music: All-Beethoven, featuring members of the L.A. Philharmonic. Oct. 5 Omara Portuondo 85 Tour With Special Guests Roberto Fonseca, Anat Cohen and Regina Carter. Oct. 7-9 Ravel & Stravinsky, featuring L.A. Philharmonic, conductor Pablo Heras-Casado, pianist Pierre-Laurent Aimard. Oct. 13-16 Dudamel & Joshua Bell, featuring L.A. Philharmonic. Oct. 18 Emerson String Quartet: Celebrating 40 Years, featuring soprano Renée Fleming. Oct. 20-23 Dudamel Conducts Mahler’s Ninth, featuring L.A. Philharmonic. Oct. 26 Violinist Hilary Hahn, pianist Robert Levin. Oct. 28 Dudamel Conducts Tchaikovsky, featuring L.A. Philharmonic. Oct. 31 Horror in the Hall: Halloween Organ With Film The Cabinet of Dr. Caligari, featuring organist Clark Wilson. 111 S. Grand Ave., downtown, 323.850.2000 Map H16

Sports Staples center Oct. 3 WWE Raw. Oct. 5 Los Angeles Clippers vs. Toronto Raptors—Preseaon. Oct. 7 Los Angeles Lakers vs. Denver Nuggets—Preseason. Oct. 10 Clippers vs. Utah Jazz—Preseason. Oct. 11 Lakers vs. Portland Trail Blazers—Preseason. Oct. 13 Clippers vs. Portland Trail Blazers—Preseason. Oct. 14 Los Angeles Kings vs. Philadelphia Flyers. Oct. 22 Kings vs. Vancouver Canucks. Oct. 25 Kings vs. Columbus Blue Jackets. Oct. 26 Lakers vs. Houston Rockets. Oct. 27 Kings vs. Nashville Predators. Oct. 29 2016 League of Legends World Championship—Finals. Oct. 30 Clippers vs. Utah Jazz. Oct. 31 Clippers vs. Phoenix Suns. 1111 S. Figueroa St., downtown, 213.742.7100 Map I15

Experience the art, history, and cultures of the American West at the Autry Museum! Now featuring California Continued—a dazzling exhibition spanning two new galleries and an outdoor garden. SPONSORS

CREATIVE PARTNER

CINDY AND ALAN HORN

4700 Western Heritage Way · Los Angeles, CA 90027 Across from the L.A. Zoo · Free Parking · TheAutry.org IMAGE: Film still, Suzanne Mejean-Pinney

Attractions Aquarium of the Pacific Focus is on Pacific Ocean sea life. Touch the ocean’s predators in Shark Lagoon and moon jellies and bioluminescent jellies in the Wonders of the Deep gallery, and meet penguins, sea otters, sea lions and 11,000 other animals. Daily 9 am-6 pm. $17.95-$29.95, under 3 free. 100 Aquarium Way, Long Beach, 562.590.3100 Map O16 Artists & fleas Hip artist, designer and vintage market—an import from Brooklyn and Chelsea, New York—also offers food trucks, workshops and DJs. New Arts District Farmers Market location. Downtown:

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AT T R A C T I O N S + M U S E U M S Sa 10 am-4 pm; Venice: Sa 11 am-6 pm. Free. 740 E. 3rd St., downtown; 1010 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 310.900.9987 Map J17, N9

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DISNEYLAND Mickey Mouse’s theme park. Attractions include Finding Nemo Submarine Voyage and updated Star Tours (including a new location from Star Wars: The Force Awakens). Disney California Adventure is adjacent. Call for hours. $95-$119, under 3 free. 1600 S. Disneyland Drive, Anaheim, 714.781.4565 Map D6

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BARNSDALL ART PARK Eleven-acre park features Frank Lloyd Wright’s Hollyhock House, as well as the L.A. Municipal Art Gallery, Barnsdall Art Center, Junior Art Center and Barnsdall Gallery Theatre. Park: daily 5 am-10 pm; Municipal Art Gallery: Th-Su noon-5 pm; Hollyhock House tours: Th-Su 11 am-3 pm. Hollyhock House tours $3-$7 (credit card only). 4800 Hollywood Blvd., L.A., 323.913.4031, barnsdall.org Map W22

GRIFFITH OBSERVATORY Iconic attraction with spectacular views of Los Angeles and the Hollywood sign. Hourly shows at planetarium. Tu-F noon-10 pm; Sa-Su 10 am-10 pm. Admission free; planetarium shows $3-$7, under 5 free. 2800 E. Observatory Road, Griffith Park, L.A., 213.473.0800 Map U23 L.A. ZOO AND BOTANICAL GARDENS Home to more than 250 animal species, many of them endangered. Daily 10 am-5 pm. Ticket sales cease one hour before closing. $15-$20, under 2 free. 5333 Zoo Drive, Griffith Park, L.A., 323.644.4200 Map T23 LEGOLAND Resort features more than 60 rides, shows and attractions, Sea Life Aquarium, Legoland Water Park and Legoland Hotel. See legoland.com for hours, ticket packages. Parking $15-$25. 1 Legoland Drive, Carlsbad, 760.918.5346 MADAME TUSSAUDS HOLLYWOOD World-famous museum of wax figures. Hours vary. $23.95-$29.95, under 3 free. 6933 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.798.1670 Map H13

one of the many powerful exhibits at the

MUSEUM OF TOLERANCE www.museumoftolerance.com

9786 west pico boulevard los angeles, ca 90035 t: 310.772.2506

THE GRAMMY MUSEUM® AND DELTA AIR LINES® PRESENT

ORIGINAL FARMERS MARKET Local landmark with 120 produce stalls, restaurants and gift shops in open-air setting. Adjacent to the Grove shopping center. 6333 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.933.9211 Map I13 OUE SKYSPACE L.A. California’s tallest open-air observation deck, at nearly 1,000 feet above the city, boasts 360-degree views and a 45-foot-long glass “Skyslide” from the 70th to the 69th floor. 633 W. 5th St., downtown, 213.894.9000 Map I16

QUEEN MARY Historic ocean liner—bigger than the Titanic!— permanently berthed in Long Beach Harbor. Shops, hotel, art deco lounge, a new 4-D theater and restaurants including Sir Winston’s. Daily 10 am-6 pm for self-guided and guided tours. Night tours available. Check queenmary.com for pricing. 1126 Queens Hwy., Long Beach, 877.342.0738 Map O16 RONALD REAGAN PRESIDENTIAL LIBRARY AND MUSEUM Visit the Air Force One Pavilion and see a full-size replica of the White House Oval Office. Daily 10 am-5 pm. $6-$16, under 2 free. 40 Presidential Drive, Simi Valley, 800.410.8354 Map northwest of A1 SEAWORLD The 189-acre adventure park features thousands of marine animals including killer whales, fish, reptiles and birds. Open daily; call for hours, ticket packages and discounts. $83-$89, under 3 free. Parking $16-$21. 500 SeaWorld Drive, San Diego, 800.257.4268 Map I8 UNIVERSAL CITYWALK Eye-popping dining, shopping and entertainment promenade includes new dining options such as Dongpo Kitchen and LudoBird, plus state-of-the-art cinema and Imax theater. iFly Hollywood is a simulated skydiving wind tunnel. Call for hours. 100 Universal City Plaza, Universal City, 818.622.4455 Map U20

SEPTEMBER 16, 2016 THROUGH FEBRUARY 2017 www.grammymuseum.org GRAMMY Museum® and the Museum logo are registered trademarks of The Recording Academy® and are used under license.

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AT T R A C T I O N S + M U S E U M S

“The Official Museum of Hollywood” -Hollywood’s Honorary Mayor, Johnny Grant

Universal Studios Hollywood Movie-based theme park. The Wizarding World of Harry Potter and The Walking Dead Attraction are new. Call or check universalstudioshollywood.com for hours and prices. 100 Universal City Plaza, Universal City, 800.864.8377 Map U20

IN THE HISTORIC MAX FACTOR BUILDING

Studio Tours PARAMOUNT pictures studio tour Two-hour group tour of Hollywood’s longest-operating and only remaining major studio. Reservation recommended. Tours daily (except some holidays) every half-hour 9:30 am-2 pm. $55; VIP tour $178, under 10 not admitted. 2.5-hour After Dark Tour every 15 minutes F, Sa 7:30-8 pm. $78, under 12 not admitted. 5515 Melrose Ave., Hollywood, 323.956.1777 Map I14 Universal Studios Hollywood Legendary studio tour (also see listing under “Attractions”). VIP Experience includes front-of-line privileges, gourmet lunch and other perks. Check universalstudioshollywood.com or call for hours and current prices. 100 Universal City Plaza, Universal City, 818.622.3801 Map U20  Warner Bros. Studio tour Hollywood Three-hour tour of working TV and film studio includes observation of filming (when possible). Deluxe tour available. Reservation recommended; photo ID required. Daily 8 am-4 pm. $62, under 8 not admitted. 3400 W. Riverside Drive, Burbank, 818.972.8687 Map U20

SEE 10,000 AUTHENTIC SHOWBIZ TREASURES SHOWCASING 100 YEARS OF HOLLYWOOD!

The most extensive collection of costumes, props, posters, and photographs in the world!

SPECIAL EXHIBITS Marilyn Monroe The Exhibit Child Stars: Then and Now Max Factor: Hollywood Glamour Make Up Magic

Open: Wed. - Sun. 10am-5pm “#1 Hollywood Tourist Attraction” –LA Weekly “One of LA’s Top 10 Museums” –LA Tourism and Convention Board “Certificate of Excellence” –Trip Advisor 1660 North Highland Avenue at Hollywood Boulevard Hollywood, California 90028 323.464.7776 www.TheHollywoodMuseum.com

Autry Museum of the American West Museum explores the art, history and cultures of the American West and houses one of the top U.S. collections of Native American materials. Opening Oct. 9 California Continued. Continuing Revolutionary Vision: Group f/64 and Richard Misrach Photographs From the Bank of America Collection; New Acquisitions Featuring the Kaufman Collection; California Impressionism: The Gardena High School Collection. (See theautry.org for ongoing exhibits.) Tu-F 10 am-4 pm; Sa-Su 10 am-5 pm. $4-$10, under 3 free. 4700 Western Heritage Way, Griffith Park, L.A., 323.667.2000 Map H14 THE BROAD Museum built by philanthropists and art collectors Eli and Edythe Broad contains nearly 2,000 works of contemporary art. Through Oct. 2 Cindy Sherman: Imitation of Life. Tu-W 11 am-5 pm; Th-F 11 am-8 pm; Sa 10 am-8 pm; Su 10 am-6 pm. Free; Cindy Sherman: $12, under 18 free. Advance online reservations encouraged. 221 S. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.232.6200 Map H16 California African American Museum Exhibits showcasing the history, culture and art of African-Americans, with an emphasis on California and the western United States. Through Oct. 9 Hank Willis Thomas: Black Righteous Space. Opening Oct. 19 The Ease of Fiction; Genevieve Gaignard: Smell the Roses; Politics, Race, and Propaganda: The Nazi Olympics, Berlin 1936; Taking Place: Selections From the Permanent Collection. Tu-Sa 10 am-5 pm; Su 11 am-5 pm. Free. Parking $12. 600 State Drive, Exposition Park, L.A., 213.744.7432 Map M8 California Science Center Interactive exhibits for budding scientists; Imax theater. Opening Oct. 15 The Science Behind Pixar Exhibition. Through Oct. 31 Earth in Concert: Protecting the Planet Through Music. Continuing Science in Toyland; Mission 26: The Big Endeavour. Daily 10 am-5 pm. Permanent gallery, free; admission for other exhibits and Imax varies. Parking $12. 700 Exposition Park Drive, Exposition Park, L.A., 323.724.3623 Map K15 Getty Center Hilltop facility houses collections of paintings, drawings, antiquities, photographs and decorative arts. Opening Oct. 4 Drawing: The Art of Change.

Opening Oct. 11 The Shimmer of Gold: Giovanni di Paolo in Renaissance Siena; The Art of Alchemy; The Alchemy of Color in Medieval Manuscripts. Through Oct. 23 Degas: “Russian Dancers” and the Art of Pastel. Continuing Richard Learoyd: In the Studio; Real/Ideal: Photography in France, 1847–1860; London Calling: Bacon, Freud, Kossoff, Andrews, Auerbach, and Kitaj; Greek and Roman Sculpture From the Santa Barbara Museum of Art; Recent Acquisitions in Focus: Latent Narratives. Tu-F, Su 10 am-5:30 pm; Sa 10 am-9 pm. Free. Parking $15, $10 after 3 pm. 1200 Getty Center Drive, L.A., 310.440.7300 Map H9 Getty Villa Getty Center’s exquisite coastal counterpart features Etruscan, Roman and Greek antiquities. Continuing Roman Mosaics Across the Empire. W-Su 10 am-5 pm. Free. Parking $15, $10 after 3 pm. Advance timed tickets required for entry. 17985 Pacific Coast Hwy., Pacific Palisades, 310.440.7300 Map K7 grammy museum Museum on L.A. Live campus explores music, the creative and recording processes and Grammy Awards history. Through Oct. 16 Sounds of Africa. Continuing Hey! Ho! Let’s Go: Ramones and the Birth of Punk; Shining Like a National Guitar; The Kingston Trio and the Folk Revival; Legends of Motown: Celebrating the Miracles. M-F 10:30 am-6:30 pm; Sa-Su 10 am-6:30 pm. $10.95-$12.95, under 6 free. 800 W. Olympic Blvd., downtown, 213.765.6800 Map I15 Hollywood Museum In the historic Max Factor Building, steps from the Walk of Fame, the Hollywood Museum houses 10,000 authentic showbiz treasures that showcase 100 years of Hollywood’s entertainment industry. W-Su 10 am-5 pm. $5-$15. 1660 N. Highland Ave., Hollywood, 323.464.7776 Map H13 Huntington Library, Art Collections, and Botanical Gardens Art, buildings and grounds, with more than a dozen themed gardens. New education and visitor center. Through Oct. 3 Yasuhiro Ishimoto. Opening Oct. 22 Geographies of Wonder Pt. 2; Real American Places; Folded Transformations; Becoming America. Opening Oct. 29 Orbit Pavilion. Continuing Van Gogh & Friends; Blast! Modernist Painting; Lari Pittman: Mood Books; Chinese Woodblock Prints. M, W-F noon-4:30 pm; Sa-Su 10:30 am-4:30 pm. $10-$25, under 4 free. 1151 Oxford Road, San Marino, 626.405.2141 Map R21 Japanese American National MusEum Promotes understanding of ethnic diversity with a focus on the Japanese American experience. Continuing Tatau: Marks of Polynesia; Uprooted: Japanese American Farm Labor Camps During World War II. Ongoing Common Ground: The Heart of Community. Tu-W, F-Su 11 am-5 pm; Th noon-8 pm. $6-$10, under 5 free, Th 5-8 pm and third Th of the month free. 100 N. Central Ave., downtown, 213.625.0414 Map H17 La Brea Tar Pits and museum Watch paleontologists at work uncovering ice age L.A. Among the main attractions are the ever-bubbling tar pits, which make up the world’s most famous fossil-excavation site. Daily 9:30 am-5 pm. $5-$12, under 3 free. 5801 Wilshire Blvd., L.A., 323.934.7243 Map J13 Los Angeles County Museum of Art The largest art museum in the Western U.S., with diverse, superb collections housed on a 20-acre campus. Through Oct. 2 Catherine Opie: O. Opening Oct. 2 Beyond Bling: Jewelry From the Lois Boardman Collection. Opening Oct. 8 TV on Film. Opening Oct. 15 Awazu Kiyoshi, Graphic Design: Summoning the Outdated. Through Oct. 16 The Enigmatic Image: Curious Subjects in Indian Art. Through Oct. 23 Islamic Art Now, Part 2: Contemporary Art of the Middle East. Opening Oct. 30 L.A. Exuberance: New Gifts by Artists. (See lacma.org for continuing and ongoing exhibits, programs and special events.) M-Tu, Th 11 am-5 pm; F 11 am-8 pm; Sa-Su 10 am-7 pm. $10-$15, under 18 free. 5905 Wilshire Blvd., L.A., 323.857.6000 Map J13 Museum of Contemporary Art Premier contemporary-art museum housed in three facilities.

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SHOPPING Opening Oct. 16 R. H. Quaytman, Morning: Chapter 30 (GA); Mickalene Thomas: Do I Look Like a Lady? (GA). Continuing Gaetano Pesce: Molds (Gelati Misti) (PDC); storefront: Paradise Garage (GA); Doug Aitken: Electric Earth (GC). GA and GC: M, W, F 11 am-6 pm; Th 11 am-8 pm; Sa-Su 11 am-5 pm. PDC: Tu-F 11 am-5 pm. $6-$12, under 12 free; free at PDC. MOCA Grand Avenue (GA), 250 S. Grand Ave., downtown; Geffen Contemporary (GC), 152 N. Central Ave., downtown; MOCA Gallery at Pacific Design Center (PDC), 8687 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 213.626.6222 Map H16, H17, I12

DOWNTOWN TO BEVERLY HILLS IN THE BLINK OF AN EYE

Museum of Tolerance Exhibits on prejudice and discrimination, legacy of the Holocaust, humanrights issues and Anne Frank’s life and legacy. Su-W, F 10 am-5 pm; Th 10 am-9:30 pm (extended hours for Anne only). $11.50-$15.50, under 5 free. 9786 W. Pico Blvd., L.A., 310.553.8403 Map J11 Natural History Museum of Los Angeles County Thirty-three million objects, from dinosaur fossils to fish. The 3.5-acre Nature Gardens, interactive Nature Lab and Tyrannosaurus rex growth series exhibit are highlights. Through Oct. 2 Pterosaurs: Flight in the Age of Dinosaurs. Through Oct. 16 Butterfly Pavilion. (See nhm.org for ongoing exhibits and events.) Daily 9:30 am-5 pm. $5-$12, under 3 free. 900 Exposition Blvd., Exposition Park, L.A., 213.763.3466 Map K15 Norton Simon Museum Stellar collection of Renaissance to 20th-century masterworks and sculpture garden. Opening Oct. 14 States of Mind: Picasso Lithographs 1945–1960. Continuing Dark Visions: MidCentury Macabre. M, W-Th noon-5 pm; F-Sa 11 am-8 pm; Su 11 am-5 pm. $9-$12; students with photo ID, under 19 free. 411 W. Colorado Blvd., Pasadena, 626.449.6840 Map Q19 Pasadena Museum of California Art California art, architecture, design. Continuing In the Land of Sunshine: Imaging the California Coast Culture; Lloyd Hamrol/Joan Perlman: “a sky in the palm of a hand.” W-Su noon-5 pm. $5-$7, under 13 free, first F and third Th of the month free. 490 E. Union St., Pasadena, 626.568.3665 Map Q20 PETERSen automotive museum Newly renovated museum displays some 135 vintage cars, trucks and motorcycles in permanent and rotating exhibits. Through Oct. 14 BMW: 100 Years of Performance. Daily 10 am-6 pm. $7-$15, under 3 free. Vault tours $20, under 13 not admitted. 6060 Wilshire Blvd., L.A., 323.930.2277 Map J13 Skirball Cultural Center The American Jewish experience. Opening Oct. 7 Pop for the People: Roy Lichtenstein in L.A. Through Oct. 30 Chasing Dreams: Baseball and Becoming American. Tu-F noon-5 pm; Sa-Su 10 am-5 pm. $7-$12, under 2 free, free Th. 2701 N. Sepulveda Blvd., L.A., 310.440.4500 Map G9

OUE Skyspace LA brings to life unparalleled, 360-degree views on California’s tallest open-air observation deck, nearly 1,000 feet above Downtown Los Angeles. Experience the Skyslide, a 45-foot, fully enclosed, all glass adventure landing on the exterior of the iconic US Bank Tower. On your way to the top, engage with an array of technological features on the 54th floor, highlighting LA’s cultural attractions.

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Shopping Destinations THE AMERICANA AT BRAND Downtown Glendale hot spot from the creators of the Grove with Main Street, U.S.A., atmosphere and trolley. Some 90 stores such as Kate Spade, new Toms and Topshop Topman. Dining options include Din Tai Fung and Bourbon Steak by Michael Mina. 889 Americana Way, Glendale, 818.637.8900 Map U23

PRESIDENTIAL LIBRARY & MUSEUM Climb onboard Air Force One and Marine One. Explore the Oval Office. Touch an authentic piece of the Berlin Wall. And so much more!

Beverly Center Trendsetting mall near West Hollywood, undergoing a multimillion-dollar renovation, has more than 100 boutiques (Burberry, Dolce & Gabbana, True Religion concept store, Uniqlo, Cos) and is anchored by Macy’s and Bloomingdale’s. 8500 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 310.854.0070 Map I12 Citadel Outlets Assyrian architecture south of downtown stands out along the Golden State (5) Freeway; the center offers discounted clothes from Kate

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BEACHES Spade, H&M, Banana Republic, Levi’s and Converse, to name just a few. 100 Citadel Drive, L.A., 323.888.1724 Map B4 THE GROVE Popular outdoor center has some 40 shops including Apple, Brandy Melville and Nordstrom, plus restaurants including Blue Ribbon Sushi Bar & Grill, all in a setting that suggests a grand old downtown. Movie theater, trolley and dancing fountain are draws. Adjacent to Original Farmers Market. 189 The Grove Drive, L.A., 888.315.8883 Map I13 ONE COLORADO Quaint outdoor plaza with upscale boutiques such as OSKA, Cop. Copine, Mohawk General Store and Sugarfina, plus iPic Theaters and restaurants including Sushi Roku. 41 Hugus Alley, Old Pasadena, 626.564.1066 Map Q19 SANTA MONICA PLACE Sleek outdoor mall at south end of Third Street Promenade anchored by Nordstrom and Bloomingdale’s. More than 80 boutiques, plus a rooftop Dining Deck and new ArcLight Cinemas. 395 Santa Monica Place, Santa Monica, 310.394.1049 Map L8 SOUTH COAST PLAZA High-end center in Orange County boasts nearly 300 boutiques (Chanel, Céline, Gucci, Chloé, Jimmy Choo) and 40 restaurants. Concierge at four locations. 3333 Bristol St., Costa Mesa, 800.782.8888 Map E6

THIRD STREET PROMENADE Pedestrian-only shopping zone includes trendy shops, kiosks and an array of entertaining street performers. 1351 3rd Street Promenade, Santa Monica, 310.393.8355 Map L8 TWO RODEO Center with cobblestones in the heart of Beverly Hills features high-end boutiques including Jimmy Choo and Tiffany & Co., plus restaurant 208 Rodeo and fine-art gallery Galerie Michael. 9478 Dayton Way, Beverly Hills, 310.247.7040 Map J11 WESTFIELD AT LAX Retail and dining options curated by Westfield (Fred Segal, MAC Cosmetics, Wolfgang Puck, Spanx, SeaLegs Wine Bar, Porsche Design, Rock & Brews) available to travelers flying out of LAX’s Tom Bradley International Terminal, as well as terminals 1, 2, 3 and 6. 380 World Way, L.A., 310.646.1770, westfieldatlax.com Map O10

Beaches HERMOSA BEACH Two-mile stretch of beach along Santa Monica Bay with combination bike path/boardwalk and pier. Metered street parking. Hermosa Avenue and 33rd Street, Hermosa Beach Map L13

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MALIBU LAGOON STATE BEACH Popular beach includes Malibu Pier, Malibu Lagoon, Surfrider beach, the Adamson House and a museum. 23050 and 23200 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu Map northwest of K9 MANHATTAN BEACH Beach is punctuated by beachvolleyball nets and bisected by a 900-foot pier featuring a small aquarium and a café. Metered street and lot parking. 400-4500 The Strand, Manhattan Beach Map L13 SANTA MONICA STATE BEACH Wide, sandy expanses divided by Santa Monica Pier. 100-2900 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica Map M8 VENICE BEACH Famous boardwalk with street performers and shops. The north end is home to “Muscle Beach.” Beach wheelchairs available. 27003100 Ocean Front Walk, Venice Map N9

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WILL ROGERS STATE BEACH Sandy 3-mile beach is starting point for the Marvin Braude Bike Trail. Popular for swimming and skin diving; volleyball courts. Beach wheelchairs available. 17700 Pacific Coast Hwy., Pacific Palisades Map K7

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TO U R S + T R A N S P O RT

Tours + Transport AMTRAK Train and bus service within the county, along the coast and to major California locations, with nationwide connections. 800.872.7245, amtrak.com BEVERLY HILLS RENT-A-CAR Luxury and exotic rentals. 9732 S. Santa Monica Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.274.6969; 6085 Venice Blvd., Hollywood, 310.659.5555; LAX, 9220 S. Sepulveda Blvd., L.A., 310.670.2020, bhrentacar.com Map K12, J11, O10 BIKES AND HIKES L.A. Biking and/or hiking tours in customizable or preset itineraries. Daily tours include L.A. in a Day, Movie Star or Hollywood bike tours, daily morning or sunset hikes. Advance reservations required. Daily 9 am-5 pm. 8743 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood, 323.796.8555, bikeshikes.com Map H12 CATALINA EXPRESS Year-round boat service to Catalina Island. Up to 30 daily departures from Long Beach, Dana Point, San Pedro. Reservation recommended. Ride Free on Your Birthday program. Call or check website for hours and pricing. 800.481.3470, catalinaexpress.com DELISH TOURS Culinary tour of “hidden gem” restaurants in Venice Beach. Reservation required. Private tours available. F-Su 11 am-2 pm; private tours offered daily. $65. Westminster Avenue and Ocean Front Walk, Venice, 323.412.9077, delishtours.com Map N9

Millions of lives have been touched by the man simply known as “Ron” to his many friends. Fully professional in over 29 fields, his life was a constant adventure.Walk through the chapters of his life at the L. Ron Hubbard Life Exhibition. Located at 6331 Hollywood Boulevard. Call 323-960-3511 for advance scheduling. WW WWW.LRONHUBBARD.ORG

DODGER STADIUM TOUR Behind-the-scenes tour of the legendary stadium. $15-$20, under 4 free. 1000 Elysian Park Ave., downtown, 866.363.4377 Map G17 HORNBLOWER CRUISES & EVENTS Dine, dance and take in beautiful harbor views aboard one of Hornblower’s cruises. Choose from dinner and Champagne brunch options. Fisherman’s Village, 13755 Fiji Way, Marina del Rey, 888.467.6256, hornblower.com Map O9 METRO City bus, light rail and subway. Rail lines connect downtown, Hollywood, Pasadena, Long Beach; underground Red Line from Union Station through Hollywood to San Fernando Valley; Gold Line from Union Station to East L.A. and through Pasadena to Azusa; Blue Line from downtown to Long Beach; Green Line from Norwalk to Redondo Beach; Expo Line from Santa Monica to downtown. 323.466.3876, metro.net METROLINK Regional train system connects Los Angeles County with Ventura, Orange and San Diego counties. Six of seven Metrolink rail lines (including the Orange County lines, San Bernardino lines and Ventura County lines) begin at Union Station in downtown Los Angeles. 800.371.5465, metrolinktrains.com

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STARLINE TOURS Celebrity-tour company offers Movie Stars’ Homes tour plus tours to beaches, theme parks, San Diego and more. The CitySightseeing double-decker hop-on, hop-off tour has more than 70 stops around L.A. Prices vary. Tours begin at TCL Chinese Theatre, 6925 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 800.959.3131, starlinetours.com Map H13

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TMZ CELEBRITY TOUR, HOLLYWOOD Two-hour bus tour highlights celebrity hot spots in Hollywood, Beverly Hills and on the Sunset Strip. See website for pickup locations, schedule, pricing. 844.TMZ.TOUR (869.8687), tmztour.com

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GO METRO Despite what you may have heard, you can get to many Los Angeles attractions without a car. Metro is the nation’s third-largest public transportation agency, operating 2,200 buses and six rail lines, including a subway that can take you from downtown to Hollywood in about 15 minutes. Whether you’re interested in seeing stars along the legendary Hollywood Walk of Fame, catching rays at Santa Monica Beach or touring any number of L.A. landmarks, Metro can take you there.

Where to Start

Use the Trip Planner at metro.net or call 323.GO.METRO for customized travel itineraries. Note that some popular attractions served by Metro Rail are listed to the right.

Fares

Metro’s base fare is $1.75. It’s best to pay using a TAP card, a reloadable plastic card that can store Metro passes or individual rides. TAP cards cost $1 and are available from self-service vending machines at Metro Rail stations, or onboard buses with the purchase of a 1-Day Pass. For complete information, check metro.net/fares.

Metro Rail Destinations

Here’s a sampling of attractions that are within easy walking distance of Metro Rail stations: METRO RED/PURPLE LINE Union Station • Olvera Street

Civic Center/Grand Park • Cathedral of Our Lady of the Angels • Museum of Contemporary Art • Music Center • Walt Disney Concert Hall • Grand Park 7th Street/Metro Center • Macy’s Plaza (dining, shops) • FIGat7th (dining, shops) Hollywood/Vine • Capitol Records Tower • Hollywood Walk of Fame • Pantages Theatre Hollywood/Highland • TCL Chinese Theatre • Hollywood & Highland (dining, shops) Universal City/Studio City • Universal CityWalk (dining, shops) • Universal Studios Hollywood

Two children under the age of 5 may travel free with each fare-paying adult. Eating and drinking is not permitted on any Metro bus or train.

North Hollywood • El Portal Theatre • NoHo Arts District (dining, shops, theatres)

Hours

METRO BLUE LINE

Most bus and rail lines start around 4 a.m. and keep running past midnight. But they’re less frequent in the late evening, so check the timetables at metro.net regarding your return trip.

Pico • Los Angeles Convention Center • STAPLES Center/L.A. LIVE 103rd Street/Watts Tower • Watts Towers Downtown Long Beach • Long Beach Aquarium of the Pacific • Pine Avenue (dining, shops) • Queen Mary

METRO GOLD LINE

Little Tokyo/Arts District • Japanese American National Museum • The Geffen Contemporary at MOCA Memorial Park • Norton Simon Museum Lake • Pasadena Playhouse

METRO EXPO LINE

Expo Park/USC • California Science Center • Natural History Museum SEE THE METRO ROUTE MAP ON PAGE 87

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MAY 2016 Subject totoChange MAY 2016 Subject Change

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Dolly Parton playing the Hollywood Bowl Oct. 1-2. p. 75 A talk with painter Julie Mehretu on Oct. 13 at The Broad downtown. p. 77 The new Butterfly Pavilion at the Natural History Museum, open through Oct. 16. p. 78 Champagne brunch on The Belvedere’s the Terrace at the Peninsula Beverly Hills. p. 56 EmerginC facials at Hotel Casa del Mar’s Sea Wellness Spa. 310.581.7767 The Art of Television Costume Design exhibition, through Oct. 15, at FIDM Museum & Galleries. fidmmuseum.org Dogeared’s inspiration-filled Santa Monica shop. p. 25 Fresh Maine lobster rolls at Knuckle & Claw in Santa Monica. 310.399.9939

where in the world

Grabbing a pre-concert drink at Nest at WP24, in the RitzCarlton at L.A. Live. p. 58

Pop for the People: Roy Lichtenstein in L.A., opening Oct. 7 at the Skirball. p. 78

The Picasso lithographs exhibition opening Oct. 14 at the Norton Simon Museum. p. 78

The new wine and espresso bar Vinoteca at Culina, in Four Seasons Hotel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills. 310.860.4000

The well-curated gift selections inside the L.A.-themed Sojourn Box. sojournbox.com

Mad Decent Block Party, at L.A. Center Studios on Oct. 1. maddecentblockparty.com

Outstanding farm-to-fork fare at Baran’s 2239 in Hermosa Beach. 424.247.8468

Shrimp cocktails at swanky The Arthur J in Manhattan Beach. p. 60

Catching rare Pokémon at the Santa Monica Pier. santamonicapier.org

Yoga at The Springs downtown. 213.223.6226

Chic Dior Split sunglasses, available at the Beverly Hills Dior boutique. 310.859.4700 The sultry new Amber Sky perfume by luxury Parisian fragrance brand Ex Nihilo, available at the Scent Bar. 323.931.8297 Clare V.’s Lou handbag, available at the Silver Lake flagship. 323.665.2476 The Jack Taylor cocktail at Citizen in Beverly Hills. p. 10 Luxurious face-grade body products from Malibu-based Kayo, Better Body Care. kayobetterbodycare.com

Where is an international network of magazines first published in 1936 and distributed in 4,000 leading hotels in more than 50 places around the world. Look for us when you visit any of the following cities, or plan ahead for your next trip by visiting us online at wheretraveler.com United States Alaska, Atlanta, Baltimore, Boston, Charleston, Charlotte, Chicago, Dallas, Georgia, Indianapolis, Las Vegas, Los Angeles, Maui, Minneapolis/St. Paul,

Tom Dixon’s Tank barware at The Shop: Curve x Tom Dixon in Culver City. 310.237.5422 The bright, modern interior of the Grove’s new Elizabeth and James store. p. 11 Doug Aitken’s temporary underwater sculptures just off Catalina Island, presented in tandem with MOCA’s new exhibition of his work. p. 77

The Coronel slim stretchmoleskin pants by L.A.-based brand Matias. matiasdenim.com Facials by Jennifer Gerace at the Roxbury Institute in Beverly Hills. 424.394.1610 The opening of a new American Art wing at the Huntington on Oct. 22. p. 77 Seafood and suds at Santa Monica Yacht Club. 310.587.3330

New Orleans, New York, Northern Virginia, Oahu, Orange County (CA), Orlando, Philadelphia, Phoenix/Scottsdale, San Diego, San Francisco, Seattle, South Florida, St. Louis, Tampa, Washington, D.C. ASIA Hong Kong, Macau, Singapore AUStrALIA Brisbane, Sydney, Melbourne Canada Calgary, Canadian Rockies, Edmonton, Halifax, Muskoka/Parry Sound, Ottawa, Toronto, Vancouver, Victoria, Whistler, Winnipeg Europe Budapest, London, Milan, Moscow, Paris, Rome, St. Petersburg

8, courtesy knuckle & claw; 11, courtesy dior; 14, wonho frank lee; 18, lori hirsch stokoe; 20, courtesy tom dixon; 27, ward robinson

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