The Nomineees Are . . .

by LAUREN QUINN

THE JAMES BEARD FOUNDATION HAS ANNOUNCED THE 2023 SEMIFINALISTS FOR ITS PRESTIGIOUS RESTAURANT AND CHEF AWARDS, WITH L.A. EATERIES MAKING ANOTHER STRONG SHOWING. WHILE YOU’LL HAVE TO WAIT UNTIL THE AWARDS CEREMONY ON JUNE 5 TO HEAR THE WINNERS, YOU CAN START SAMPLING THE FARE NOW.

Holbox

Best Chef: California

IF YOU’RE CRAVING a tropical vacation, head to Holbox, where the Yucatán-style seafood dishes (think: lots of citrus, garlic, and salsas) conjure the flavors of the southeastern coast of Mexico. The casual walk-up counter is light on fuss and heavy on flavors with a focus on affordability, and sustainability. Stand-outs include scallop tacos, mixed ceviche, and kanpachi and uni tostada. You'll be transported to Mexico without ever hopping on a plane.

Pijja Palace

Best New Restaurant

WITH AN ATMOSPHERE as spicy and loud as the menu itself, it’s hard not to have a good time at Pijja Palace, L.A.’s sports-bar home for Indian pizza. Snack on Kashmiri chile red wings, then build your own pizza with signature sauces and toppings like tandoori onions and chicken tikka, or pick a premade green chutney pie. A restored 1940s soda fountain pumps out South Asian sodas and the bar pours chai whiskey sours, while the game—any game—plays on one of 12 TV screens.

n/naka

Outstanding Chef DINING AT N/NAKA is a unique and meditative culinary journey. The fine-dining star offers a California take on traditional Japanese culinary art of kaiseki—a ritualized Japanese meal of small dishes—sourcing the freshest seasonal ingredients from local farms and creating plates as visually stunning as they are delicious. The nightly 13-course tasting menu pairs perfectly with the restaurant’s exceptional wines and sakes, inviting guests to sit back and sink into the calm rhythms of this transcendent dining experience.

Moo’s Craft Barbecue

Best Chef: California

MEAT LOVERS, REJOICE! What started as a backyard pop-up hosted by high school sweethearts has transformed into an L.A. hot spot for traditional Texas-style barbeque with a distinctly Cali-Mex twist. Classics like smoky brisket accompany original creations such as pork verde sausage and tres leches bread pudding, with a selection of craft beers to wash it all down. It’s no wonder this newcomer has earned nods from Food & Wine magazine, the Michelin Guide, and loyal fans who are not afraid to queue up for a good meal. Just make sure to leave room for a post-meal nap.

Jitlada

Best Chef: California

DON’T BE FOOLED by the unassum- ing strip mall location. Jitlada offers some of the best—and spiciest—Thai food in the city. The brother and sister team at the helm have culled their family recipes to create a menu rich in the flavors of their southern Thai hometown. Offerings include wellrendered standbys like pad thai, but more adventurous eaters can opt for crispy catfish salad, Taepo chicken curry or Khua Kling Phat Lung, which is turmeric shredded-beef curry. Just be sure to have some water nearby, because the cooks don’t hold back on the flavor or the heat.

Hayato

Best Chef: California

HAYATO IS MORE than a restaurant. It’s an intimate experience in dining excellence. From the tea to the sake to the seasonal dishes artfully arranged on vintage porcelain dishes, everything in the multicourse, kaiseki-style meal reflects the skills of master chef Brandon Hayato Go. The single nightly seating at the tiny restaurant’s bar makes this one of the harder reservations to get in the city, but the personal presentation of each pristine dish makes it worth the effort.

Friends & Family

Outstanding Bakery

IF THE PERFECT croissant exists, you’ll probably find it at Friends &

Family. The husband-and-wife-run bakery specializes in pastries and breads, but breakfasts such as olive oil–fried eggs are not to be missed. Whatever you order, pair it with a Counter Culture coffee and linger in the retro-inspired, airy interior. And don’t forget to grab a baguette or two on your way out.

Bridgetown Roti

Emerging Chef

BUTTERY, FLAKY, CRISPY, addictive:

If you’re not yet familiar with Caribbean-style roti, it’s time. Barbadosborn chef Rashida Holmes brings the flavors of her Bajan heritage to this family-owned pop-up. With dishes like cod cakes, chicken curry, and fried okra chips, it’s easy to see how this newcomer has quickly become a beloved L.A. favorite. With no brick-and-mortar location, be sure to check the pop-up schedule on their website.

Yangban Society

Best New Restaurant

KOREAN-AMERICAN CHEFS

Katianna and John Hong draw from their cultural backgrounds to create a menu of exciting comfort-food mash-ups. Look for Jajang bolognese with fermented black bean sauce, fried chicken with soy-garlic glaze, and matzoh ball soup with sujebi dumplings. A multicourse prix-fixe dinner allows you to sample the fare, while the ground-floor mini market and deli let you take home a variety of items including Korean fruit milk and face masks.

République

Outstanding Pastry Chef

IT’S IMPOSSIBLE NOT to feel chic at République. Set within a historic building that once housed Charlie Chaplin’s offices, the restaurant has an arched ceiling, rustic tables, and provincial street lamps that evoke a bustling French marketplace, while the menu offers California-fresh French cuisine. No stranger to “best of” lists, the restaurant serves lunch, dinner, and to-go pastries in its cafe, but the hands-down best is its brunch.

Here’s Looking at You

Outstanding Hospitality

HLAY HAS ALL the ingredients of a great neighborhood restaurant: bold cocktails, creative cuisine, and a vibe as buzzing as it is effortlessly cool. The self-declared eclectic restaurant draws from the diverse culinary influences of Los Angeles. The menu of shared small plates changes frequently, so be on the lookout for duck confit, frog legs in salsa negra, and shishito peppers in preserved dried plums. With a loyal base of regulars, HLAY makes for a great snapshot of L.A.

Ototo

Outstanding Wine

IT'S EASY TO miss the tiny OTOTO, tucked besides its sister restaurant Tsubaki. But doing so would mean missing out on one of the best sake lists in the city. Divided into flavor profiles such as “fruits and flowers” and “rice and minerals,” you’re bound to find the perfect spirit for your palate. The food menu doesn’t hold back, with Japanese bar-style dishes such as daikon salad, chicken Katsu sandwich and okonomiyaki, a savory cabbage pancake. With no formal table service, OTOTO brings the art of sip-and-snack to new levels.

/ Moo’s Craft Barbecue 2118 N Broadway, Los Angeles, 323.686.4133 / Jitlada 5233 Sunset Blvd., Los Angeles, 323.667.9809 / Hayato 1320 E 7th St. #126, Los Angeles, 213.395.0607 / Friends & Family 5150 Hollywood Blvd., Los Angeles, 323.668.2000 / Bridgetown Roti 672 S Santa Fe Ave., Los Angeles, 747.221.9026 / Yangban Society 712 S Santa Fe Ave., Los Angeles, 213.866.1987 / République 624 S La Brea Ave., Los Angeles, 310.362.6115 / Here’s Looking At You 3901 W 6th St., Los Angeles, 213.568.3289 / OTOTO 1360 Allison Ave., Los Angeles, 213.784.7930 pijjapalace.com / n/naka 3455 Overland Ave., Los Angeles,