On the Waterfront

By Spud Hilton

Braised wagyu short ribs from Epic Steak

IF THERE’S ONE element of San Francisco that has dominated the city’s history and heritage more than tourism, tech and trade combined, it’s the waterfront. The sweeping, curved shoreline from the Golden Gate to the San Francisco-Oakland Bay Bridge has always been important here—a city bordered on three sides by water—for transportation, recreation, trade and travelers, for armadas of fishing boats and waves of immigrants. And as with other cities with shorelines dominated by docks, marinas, wharves and warehouses, the waterfront in San Francisco in modern times has evolved into much more than a revolving door for goods and people. San Francisco’s waterfront today is still about trade and transportation, but also is about leisure, dining, adventure, exploration, hospitality and shopping. And there are more than a few simple, fun ways to experience the waterfront, past and present, to get the big picture of the city’s front door.

Hike/Bike

The great majority of the city’s north and east shores are predictably flat, allowing for easy, fast walking and biking, and for heartier folks, it is possible to walk from bridge to bridge, including along the entire Embarcadero and through Fort Baker, Marina Green and Crissy Field all the way to Fort Point. The Embarcadero offers diversions along the way (see pp. 14 and 22 for the City Tours of Fisherman’s Wharf and the Embarcadero), including a walking route that weaves behind the buildings, along the piers and wharves (look for Bay Trail signs). Make sure to walk out to the ends of Pier 7 and Pier 14, pedestrian walkways north and south of the Ferry Building, respectively, that stretch a couple of football fields into the bay and offer stunning views of the waterfront, the Bay Bridge and the rest of the bay. At Fisherman’s Wharf, walk the working docks where the city’s fishing fleet has been returning with Dungeness crab and fresh fish for more than a century. Once past Fisherman’s Wharf, wander out to the end of the public pier at Aquatic Park. The curved, cement structure is still a popular spot for public fishing and it offers unobstructed views of the Golden Gate Bridge, Alcatraz and Angel Island.

Night dining at Waterbar

Dining

During the rough and rowdy times of the late 1800s, the sailors, captains and longshoremen having a meal at any of the countless saloons and boarding houses along the waterfront probably didn’t think much about the bay views. (For one thing, it was really dark with no bridges or significant light from other cities.) Today, the views generally are far better than back then as is, presumably, the cuisine. Among the best places to combine the two these days are: Epic Steak and neighboring Waterbar, both of which have outdoor tables near the water almost under the Bay Bridge. Farther north, find bayside tables and a taste of Peru at La Mar Cebicheria Peruana, near Pier 1, as well as upscale tapas and cocktails at Coqueta a few doors down. More casual options include Hog Island Oyster Co. at the Ferry Building, the laid-back Pier 23 Cafe (which had a large outdoor patio before it was trendy) and, for second floor views of the marina and the famous sea lions, try Fog Harbor Fishhouse or Swiss Louis Italian & Seafood Restaurant, both in Pier 39.

History

Dungeness crab at Fisherman’s Wharf

Experiencing the historical side of the waterfront depends heavily on what era you’re aiming for. Before the Gold Rush, the original shoreline was farther inland, so much so that all of Fisherman’s Wharf, Pier 39, the Embarcadero and the Ferry building all would be in the bay back then (and the North Beach neighborhood actually included a beach). Among the more colorful remnants of that era is the Old Ship Saloon on Pacific Street that was built on the ruins of the Arkansas, a Gold Rush-era ship that was abandoned in 1849, became landlocked and was turned into a bar. The current building was erected after the ship was dismantled and is said to be the last bar left that was connected to the practice of drugging and kidnapping men to work on ships, better known as Shanghai-ing. Other glimpses of history include: riding the vintage F line streetcars along the waterfront; get a view from Aquatic Park of the historical masted ships and boats lining Hyde Street Pier, part of the San Francisco Maritime National Historical Park; and the restored wetlands at the end of Crissy Field, parts of which look as they were before the Spanish arrived. Finally, at the base of the Golden Gate Bridge’s south anchorage is Fort Point, a red-brick battery built in the 1850s to protect the bay from invaders. (The grounds are open, although the fort’s interior was still closed at press time.)

The F line streetcar passes Boudin Bakery

AWAY ON THE BAY

Among the more exciting ways to experience San Francisco’s waterfront is to board a vessel and see it from the water. Here are operators who offer cruise and ferry services around the bay.

The boat to Alcatraz

Alcatraz Cruises

Official operator for transportation to the island and tours there. Departs: Pier 33. alcatrazcruises.com

Angel Island Tiburon Ferry

Round-trip service between Tiburon and Angel Island State Park on the weekends. Departs: Ferry dock near the end of Tiburon Boulevard. angelislandferry.com

Bay Voyager

Offers bay tours on a high-speed boat for private parties of up to eight people. Departs: Pier 39. bayvoyager.com

Blue and Gold Fleet

Operates the popular route between San Francisco and Sausalito. Departs: Pier 41. blueandgoldfleet.com

Golden Gate Ferry

Commuter centric ferry service among San Francisco, Sausalito and Tiburon. Departs: San Francisco Ferry Building. goldengate.org

Red and White Fleet

Offers a variety of cruises around the bay, including under the Golden Gate Bridge. Departs: Pier 43.5. redandwhite.com

San Francisco Bay Ferry

Commuter-centric ferry service among San Francisco, Alameda and Jack London Square in Oakland, weekdays only as of press time. Departs: San Francisco Ferry Building. sanfranciscobayferry.com

San Francisco Water Taxi

Hop-on/hop-off service in small boats among Hyde Street Fishing Pier, Pier 39 and Pier 1.5 near the Ferry Building. Also offers custom service. sanfranciscowatertaxi.org