12 minute read
Comfort and Joy
COMFORT &
Celebrate with new favorites throughout
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For many, the holidays are about balance, like taking time to reflect on the past year while looking forward to what comes next. Or finding a balance between celebrating time-honored traditions while trying new experiences to keep pace with our fast-changing, evermore-connected world.
There is also the challenge of balancing our own energies throughout the hectic pace of the season so that we can find time to relax and enjoy ourselves. With this in mind, we’ve created a holiday menu that offers a balance of familiar and new, bright flavors and comfort, make-ahead convenience and show-stopping deliciousness.
The recipes take inspiration from a handful of different countries and regions. If you’re merely looking to liven up your usual holiday menu, pick one or two of these to serve alongside your family favorites—they’ll fit right in. Or prepare the entire menu and discover a whole new equilibrium this holiday season.
PHOTOGRAPHY
TERRY BRENNAN
Party Potato Pancakes with Herbed Sour Cream
MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS (24 BITE-SIZE PANCAKES)
Serve these crisp, golden bite-size potato pancakes with a simple dollop of herb-flecked sour cream or dress them up by adding a strip of silky cured salmon. Modeled on traditional Hanukkah latkes, these are oven-baked (instead of pan-fried) making them easier on the cook —and on the dish-doer.
For the Topping
½ cup sour cream or créme fraîche 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh herbs, such as dill and/or chives
Salt, to taste 2 ounces thinly-sliced gravlax or smoked salmon, cut into small pieces (optional)
For the Pancakes
1 pound russet potatoes 1 small yellow onion 1 large egg, lightly beaten ½ teaspoon chopped fresh thyme (optional) ½ to 1 teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Vegetable or olive oil (or olive-oil pan spray) 1. Heat the oven to 450°F. Brush 2 nonstick baking sheets with oil (or spray with pan spray). 2. Combine the sour cream (or créme fraîche) and herbs in a small bowl. Season with salt to taste. Set aside. 3. Peel the potatoes and onion, and grate them using the large holes of a box grater or the shredding blade of a food processor. Pile the shreds into the center of a clean kitchen towel, gather the edges, and twist into a bundle. Holding the towel over a medium glass bowl, squeeze forcefully to extract as much liquid as possible. Reserve the liquid, allowing the potato starch to settle on the bottom of the bowl. 4. Put the potatoes and onions in a medium mixing bowl and add the eggs and thyme, if using. Pour off and discard the clear liquid that has separated from the white potato starch, and add the starch to the potato-onion mixture. Season with salt and pepper and stir to combine. 5. Form pancakes by dropping tablespoons-full of batter onto the baking sheets and flattening into disks. Bake until brown on the bottom, 8 to 10 minutes. Remove from the oven and flip the pancakes. Continue baking until nicely browned on both sides and crisp, another 6 to 7 minutes. 6. Serve topped with a dollop of herbed sour cream and, if desired, a piece of gravlax or salmon.
Cook’s Note
n Potato pancakes are best served warm, but you can bake them early in the day and reheat before serving. Just leave them out, uncovered, on a baking sheet. (The pancakes turn soggy if refrigerated.) To serve, reheat in a 450°F oven until hot, 4 to 5 minutes. Top and serve as explained above.
Braised Red Cabbage with Apples and Bacon
MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS
Ordinary red cabbage turns luxuriously tender and full of complex flavor when slowly simmered with a mix of warm spices, sweet apples, a bit of smoky bacon and the brace of cider vinegar. A fine addition to any winter meal, this hearty dish is a fixture on holiday tables from the American Midwest to Northern Europe and beyond.
2 slices thick-cut bacon, cut into ½-inch-wide strips 1½ tablespoons unsalted butter 1 medium yellow onion, thinly sliced
Salt and pepper, to taste 2 Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored, and thinly sliced 1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger 1 medium head red cabbage (1½ to 2 pounds), cored and shredded 3 tablespoons cider vinegar, plus more to taste 1 cup chicken broth or apple cider [or water] 1 cinnamon stick 4 or 5 whole allspice berries 1. Place the bacon in a large deep ovenproof skillet and set over medium heat. Cook until the bacon renders its fat and begins to crisp, 5 minutes. 2. Add the butter to the bacon and fat in the pan and stir in the sliced onion. Season with salt and pepper to taste and sauté, stirring a few times, until the onion turns limp, about 2 minutes. Add the apple and ginger and stir to combine. Add the cabbage a few handfuls at a time, stirring frequently, until the cabbage begins to wilt, about 6 minutes. Add the vinegar and broth (or cider or water) and bring to a simmer. Tuck in the cinnamon stick and allspice berries. 3. Cover the pan and simmer gently, stirring occasionally, until the cabbage is tender, about 1 hour. Remove the cinnamon stick and allspice berries. Taste, adjusting the seasoning as needed with salt, pepper and/or a splash of vinegar as needed. Serve warm or at room temperature.
Cook’s Notes
n You can serve the cabbage as soon as it’s done, or slide it to the back of the stove to sit, covered, for a couple of hours. Reheat before serving. n The cabbage can also be made up to 2 days ahead. Refrigerate, tightly covered. Reheat gently in a covered skillet or warm oven and check seasonings before serving.
Wheat Berry Salad with Honey Vinaigrette
MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS
Inspired by a variety of fruit-and-nut studded wheat berry dishes served on special occasions across Eastern Europe and the Caucasus, this whole-grain salad makes a uniquely satisfying side dish for a holiday roast. Wheat berries take longer to cook than most grains, but an overnight soak shortens the cooking time considerably. You can also substitute other whole grains, such as farro and barley.
2 cups wheat berries (see Cook’s Notes) 1 bay leaf 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil 1¼ cups hazelnuts or pecans, toasted and coarsely chopped 1¼ cups dried apricots, coarsely chopped 8 scallions, white and pale green parts, trimmed and chopped 1 cup coarsely chopped fresh parsley
For the Vinaigrette 2 tablespoons honey ⅓ cup balsamic vinegar 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
Pinch salt, plus more to taste ⅔ cup extra-virgin olive oil
Black pepper, to taste
1. Put the wheat berries in a bowl and cover them with cool water. Cover the bowl loosely and soak overnight. Drain. 2. Bring 2½ quarts of well-salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the wheat berries and bay leaf and simmer until tender, 50 to 60 minutes. Drain well, discarding the bay leaf. Transfer the wheat berries to a large bowl and toss with the 1 tablespoon olive oil. 3. Meanwhile, make the vinaigrette. In a small bowl, whisk together the honey, balsamic, Dijon and a pinch of salt. Whisk in the olive oil, and season with salt and pepper to taste. 4. Once the wheat berries have cooled to room temperature, add the nuts, apricots, scallions and parsley. Toss to combine. Pour over enough vinaigrette to coat, toss, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Add more vinaigrette as needed (save any extra for another use). Serve at room temperature.
Cook’s Notes
n If you don’t have time to soak the wheat berries overnight, expect the cooking time to be closer to 1½ to 2 hours. n Grain salads are a great choice for make-ahead sides. Once dressed, cover and refrigerate for up to 2 days. Check for dressing and seasoning just before serving (it often needs an extra splash of dressing and pinch of salt after sitting).
Citrus-Garlic Marinated Pork Roast
MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS
In many tropical climates, an outdoor pig roast is one of the most festive—and flavorful— ways to commemorate the holidays, but it requires a fair amount of work and tending. Here’s a more modest approach that captures the flavor and goodness of this magnificent feast within the confines of an ordinary kitchen. Allow the pork to marinate for at least 18 hours for best flavor.
For the Marinade
1 tablespoon ground cumin (see Cook’s Notes) 1 tablespoon coarsely ground black pepper (see Cook’s Notes) 1 tablespoon minced garlic 1 tablespoon dried oregano 1½ teaspoons kosher salt (or 1 teaspoon table salt)
Pinch cayenne ⅔ cup fresh orange juice ⅓ cup fresh lime juice 2 tablespoons olive oil
1 (4- to 5-pound) boneless pork shoulder or blade roast (see Cook’s Notes) ¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro 1. Combine all the ingredients for the marinade in a small bowl. Place the pork in a large resealable plastic bag or large bowl, and pour over the marinade. Turn the meat to make sure the marinade is well distributed. Refrigerate for 18 to 24 hours, turning occasionally to marinate evenly. Remove the pork from the refrigerator 1 to 2 hours before roasting. 2. Heat the oven to 325°F. Place the pork, fat-side up, in a shallow roasting pan and pour the marinade over the top. Roast, basting every 45 minutes, adding water (about ½ cup at a time) if the drippings dry up or get too dark, until an instantread thermometer inserted in the thickest part of the roast registers 155°F to 160°F, 2 to 2½ hours. 3. Transfer the pork to a carving board to rest for about 20 minutes. Skim most of the clear fat from the pan juices and discard (or save for another use). Add the cilantro to the pan juices. Slice the roast into thick slices and pour the pan juices over the meat to serve.
Cook’s Notes
n For the juiciest, most flavorful pork roast, look for one from the shoulder, either Boston butt or blade roast, or a sirloin roast from the leg. n To punch up the flavor of the marinade, start with whole cumin seed and whole peppercorns. Combine them in a small skillet over medium heat and toast until fragrant and beginning to darken. Cool and then grind in a spice grinder or mortar.
Brown Sugar Butter Tarts
MAKES 12 INDIVIDUAL TARTS
A fair amount of mystery—and some lively debate—surrounds the origins of these tender tarts, but they can be found in most every region of Canada. Their popularity rests in the irresistible contrast between the crisp, flaky crust and the luscious gooey, caramel-like filling. Purists insist on nothing but brown sugar and sweet butter in the filling, while others add pecans or raisins—or even a few morsels of dark chocolate. You can’t go wrong either way.
For the Pastry
1½ cups pastry flour (or 1⅓ cups all-purpose flour), plus more for dusting
Pinch fine sea salt 8 tablespoons (1 stick) cold unsalted butter, cut into ½-inch bits 4 tablespoons (2 ounces) cold cream cheese, cut into ½-inch bits 1 teaspoon white vinegar 2 tablespoons ice water
For the Filling
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons lightly packed dark brown sugar 5 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted and cooled 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract ½ teaspoon white vinegar ½ teaspoon fine sea salt 1 large egg, lightly beaten
Optional: ¼ cup chopped pecans, sultana raisins or chocolate chips (see Cook’s Notes)
1. For the pastry, combine the flour and salt in a food processor. Add the butter and cream cheese and pulse until the butter and cream cheese are pea-sized. Add the vinegar and water and pulse again until the dough just comes together. Transfer the dough to a work surface and gently knead a few times to create a loose but cohesive dough. Shape into a rectangle about 1½ inches thick. Wrap in plastic and chill for about 1 hour. 2. Heat the oven to 375°F. 3. Dust your work surface and rolling pin with flour. Roll the dough into a rectangle about 10 by 17 inches and about ⅛-inch thick (see Cook’s Notes). Cut into 12 (4-inch) circles, rerolling the scraps as needed to fit all 12 circles. Fit the pastry into an ungreased standard 12-muffin tin, loosely pleating the sides and gently pressing the dough into the cups so that the pastry doesn’t sit above the top of the muffin cups. Refrigerate the muffin tin while you make the filling. 4. For the filling, combine the sugar, melted butter, vanilla, vinegar and salt in a mixing bowl. Add the egg and mix until smooth. 5. If adding any of the optional flavorings (pecans, raisins or chocolate), divide them among the chilled tart shells. Pour the filling into the shells, filling each about halfway and doing your best not to drip over the edges. 6. Bake until the pastry is golden brown and the filling is bubbling, 18 to 20 minutes. 7. Let the tarts cool completely in the pan, running a knife around the edge of each 10 minutes after coming out of the oven and again before removing the tarts from the tin. Serve at room temperature. They can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature up to 2 days.
Cook’s Notes
n For the perfect ratio of crispy pastry to gooey filling, the dough gets rolled out thinner than for most pies. Take care to flour your work surface and rolling pin. n In place of a 4-inch round cookie cutter, you can use a 4-inch bowl as a template and cut around it with a paring knife—or make a circle out of cardboard. n If using raisins, soak in warm water as the dough chills and drain before using. n
nutrition (per serving)
PARTY POTATO PANCAKES WITH HERBED SOUR CREAM
(PER BITE-SIZED PANCAKE WITH SOUR CREAM TOPPING) CALORIES: 25, FAT: 1G (SAT: 0G), CHOLESTEROL: 10 MG, SODIUM: 80 MG, CARB: 4G, FIBER: 0G, SUGAR: 0G, PROTEIN: <1G
BRAISED RED CABBAGE WITH APPLES AND BACON
CALORIES: 120, FAT: 4.5G (SAT: 2G), CHOLESTEROL: 10 MG, SODIUM: 370 MG, CARB: 18G, FIBER: 4G, SUGAR: 10G, PROTEIN: 5G
WHEAT BERRY SALAD WITH HONEY VINAIGRETTE
CALORIES: 520, FAT: 33G (SAT: 4G), CHOLESTEROL: 0 MG, SODIUM: 60 MG, CARB: 55G, FIBER: 10G, SUGAR: 15G, PROTEIN: 9G
CITRUS-GARLIC MARINATED PORK ROAST
CALORIES: 430, FAT: 22G (SAT: 7G), CHOLESTEROL: 170 MG, SODIUM: 490 MG, CARB: 4G, FIBER: <1G, SUGAR: 2G, PROTEIN: 50G
BROWN SUGAR BUTTER TARTS
(PER TART) CALORIES: 270, FAT: 15G (SAT: 9G), CHOLESTEROL: 50 MG, SODIUM: 150 MG, CARB: 34G, FIBER: <1G, SUGAR: 20G, PROTEIN: 2G