A Taste Of Culture

Spending his whole life dedicated to food, Luis Torres shares his culture with all who visit his restaurant.

By Estrella Peña

Upon entering Ixtapa Mexican Restaurant in Veneta, Oregon, the sound of mariachi music hums faintly in the background, and a dominating tinge of vivid yellow adjoined to a hint of mint green on the walls catches the eye. A cheerful and colorful interior design contrasts with the earthly tones of paint. A server warmly smiles and leads customers to tables. Intricately colored decorations accent a Mexican sombrero hanging on the wall. The restaurant’s atmosphere has a certain ambiance, something like a comfortable dining room away from home. An order of a warm corn tortilla rolled around a seasoned mixture, covered with chili sauce and cheese that melts on the tongue, is set atop a table. The rich aroma of the enchilada dish wafts up temptation. Enormous platters of food always serve as the center of attention, with guests observing various plates. Music, cultural decor, and the people all combine to create a sense of comfort. When describing his restaurant, Luis Torres says, “there is an utmost and very profound tradition of the infatuation of food culture which we view as Mexican.”

People come to America because it is known as the “land of opportunity,” where better living standards, financial stability, and improved working conditions are provided. Throughout history, immigrants have built the country, adding to America’s intellectual growth, culture, domestic security, and economic productivity. People, such as Torres, immigrate to the United States because they can be anything they aspire to be, and they don’t come alone, they bring their cultures with them.

Torres entered the United States with dreams of a better life for himself, to emerge in the American lifestyle. “My family and I had been living in a poor part of town in Guanajuato, Mexico,” says Torres. “Both of my parents were farmers who wanted a better life for me. Since they didn’t have much power, all they could do was keep me in school. When I became older, I learned that we can define our success, no one else.”

His past drove him to take charge of his own future, and make a decision to take action. Despite his family’s economic struggles, he remembers a good childhood of “strengthened family bonds.”

At a young age, Torres worked in a restaurant with his two older brothers. “It’s some of my best memories I had with my siblings in our hometown. The recollection of us working together, the laughter and enjoyment, is what further motivated me into the pursuit of this line of work” he says. “None of my family members owned a restaurant, but at the age of 15 I decided to work in one. I worked my way up, performing any given task, from working in the kitchen to waiting tables.”

Torres left Mexico to improve his living standards and do better for himself. He left his home, friends, and family to bus tables in America until he earned enough money for a start-up business, Ixtapa Mexican Restaurant. He arrived in the United States in 1990, began with practically nothing and emerged as a testament to drudgery, devotion, and the will to succeed. He went from barely making ends meet to being a successful business owner, honing his story along the way and connecting with investors, employees, and consumers.

Although Torres worked his way up to owning his own restaurant, he does not belittle or abandon the positions he worked to get there. To this day, he continues to help wait on tables, clean, and cook.

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On November 15, 2019, Torres worked with others in the kitchen, navigating through a chaotic dance that was the dinner rush.

Coded language and endless sounds of utensils and dinnerware clashing filled the vastness of the kitchen. Pedro Gómez, one of the cooks, wasn’t able to come into work. Luckily, Torres himself filled in for Gómez last minute. There was no time for slowing down, requests were sent in, and the rambunctious sound of barking orders sent to all parts of the kitchen heightened.

“I need more tomatoes!” called one of the cooks, and another rushed to grab them. The tempting smell of fresh corn tortillas arose as they chopped up spicy marinated meat. A waiter walked in to fill her round tray with cups of water. As she was about to walk out, she bumped into an individual, losing her balance and spilling the water.

Ixtapa maintains the ambiguity of both chaos and order. Torres handled the staff incident with composure. He asked one of the staff to help her clean the spill and another to quickly replace it. In a matter of seconds, it seemed as if nothing happened and the flow of the frantic pace in the kitchen lingered.

“We continue to function because we work together,” says Torres. The staff resumed their work like clockwork, motivated to get the job done.

Outside the kitchen, customers salivated and all the cooks and servers worked as a team to satiate their hunger. The crowded kitchen consists of distinct people from varying countries, cultures, and backgrounds.

Torres’ inimitable inclination of touch, taste, and sight take root in his authentic style of cooking, choosing to bring the traditional Mexican cuisine to Springfield and Eugene natives. His appreciation and love for the ingredients distinguish him from the others. Torres values people who are fond of cooking over those who intellectualize the culinary art. He says, “I know people who are not natural cooks, but love to cook, and that is more than great because others only use their hands and brain.” The natural feeling between the hands and the heart is more important to Torres.

It would be tough to encounter anyone more impassioned about cuisine and business than Torres, however, passion’s driving force can only take one so far. Keeping the restaurant open during one of the worst economic recessions took an incredible amount of discipline, perseverance, and determination. As Torres points out, “it was awfully hard and continues to [be].”

During the recession, many restaurants and businesses nearby were obligated to close. Torres has invested a lot of money and dedication. “Before, the restaurant was this old and slummy building, but now it’s a charming and homey establishment,” he says. “We’ll be able to prosper—I’m not opening restaurants to close them up.”

Breaking barriers, he serves as an inspiration to the entire community, proving that anyone can reach their dreams, despite everlasting obstacles. Torres, currently 45, adores the food business, and has “been involved in this industry for 30 years.” He says, “Unless you’re passionate about food and operating a restaurant, you’ll eventually discover that you’ve made a serious mistake. When you enjoy it—as I do—the difficulties seem insignificant. If you run a restaurant with the conception of becoming wealthy, then you’re not in the right place.”

To own a restaurant is to be very active and engaged The level of authenticity customers experience at Ixtapa influences how they identify with the culture. Ixtapa provides the “family style” environment that most people look for when they seek an authentic experience. Charlotte Anderson, a customer, states, “the environment is very warm and comforting; I love it here!” she says. “I drive about an hour to just come to this Mexican restaurant every so often.”

People tend to Americanize traditional Mexican food. Contrarily, Ixtapa remains true to the flavors of Mexican heritage, presenting authentic dishes ranging from carne asada to enchiladas to Camarones a la Diabla. As Torres stresses, “the food is the most important thing,” emphasizing its need to be authentic and good quality. His life pursuit results in satisfaction. While being a restaurant owner is demanding work, he feels only content in maintaining a sense of cultural herritge through food.