SPRING FASHION SPECIAL
Dec 2016
CONTENT Editor Sonya Sun Office 79 New Montgomery St, San Francisco, CA 94105 Phone +19708899249 E-mail. miaofly0807@126.com web. ershimagazine.weebly.com
EDITOR’S LETTER
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This magazine is for ladies who are in their twenties and who wish to stand out from their peers. We hope to stimulate readers’ fashion awareness and lead them to an exciting journey of self-discovery.
16 “WOMEN TRANSFORMERS” Ever since their debut at London Fashion Week in 2012, Fyodor Podgorny and Golan Frydman have never failed to surprise us with their idiosyncratic designs.
22 #TOMMY X GIGI COLLECTION On the night of Sep 9th, Tommy Hilfiger debuted with Gigi Hadid a great fashion carnival at Tommy Pier in New York City during the New York Fashion Week 2016.
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INTERVIEW THE LADY BOSS It is safe to say that every girl dream at one time or another to open up a fashion boutique. Chelsea Moylan setup her business on fashion, which focused on an international platform.
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“BUSINESSWOMEN” KEYED UP AT PFW “Paris fashion week has always been major, but we’re seeing much more newness now,” says Sarah Rutson, vice-president of global buying at Net-a-Porter. “
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BEAUTY’S COUNTLESS DEFINITION As anyone can see from the definition of beauty in the dictionary, the general meaning of the word is: the quality or aggregate of qualities in a person or thing that gives pleasure to the senses or pleasurably exalts the mind or spirit.
EDITORIALS
06/ 54/ 66/ 82/
“ GIRL WITH FRINGE IS IN “
“ FAIRY ROMANCE“
“ SO SHE GOES “
“SWEET LOLLIPOP”
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“ERSHI” IS THE WORD FOR THE NUMBER 20 IN CHINESE, AND “20” IS SYMBOLIC OF A TRANSITION FROM TEENAGER TO ADULT. ERSHI MAGAZINE IS FOR THOSE OF YOU WHO ARE IN YOUR TWENTIES.
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Editor’s Letter I’m excited to announce the first letter from the editor that’s me! This is the first issue of ERSHI Magazine, which was produced after much stress and hard work. “ERSHI” is a Chinese pronunciation, which means 20. At the age of 20, many young women are financially independent, can buy what they like, and have developed a strong sense of fashion and personal taste. Our first fashion magazine focuses on Asian styles geared towards American women in their twenties. Thanks to the globalization and the spread of information, young women can absorb different cultures of fashion. Now is the perfect time for a magazine like ERSHI. In our first issue, you will read about a lot of real-life fashion issues, which include the latest information and emerging trends in the industry, as well as New York and London runway show reviews of Kate Spade, Red Valentino, Rebecca Minkoff and Fyodor Golan. Additionally, we offer an artist story of artist and YouTube star Michelle Phan, as well an op-ed about Balmain x H&M. In the upcoming issues, we invite some new fashion designers to share their collection with you. We cover it all. Starting a brand-new magazine is inspiring and exhausting. It is quite an exciting challenge, but I’m ready to take it on. I hope ERSHI will boost your self-confidence and help you find your voice. Enjoy ERSHI Magazine’s very first issue and please provide lots of feedback to miaofly0807@126.com! Thanks, Sonya Sun, Editor MA Fashion Journalism Student ERSHI Magazine
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poncho RAG & BONE skirt AZALEA hat RAG AND BONE tall boot ASKA
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FRINGE GIRL WITH IS IN Photographer: Jen Lovely
Make-up: Sean Kosug Hair: Kendall Shira Model: Arrianna Duarte Stylist: Laynie Rouch
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tassel sweater PODEBJER suede dress AAZLEA blue suede boots H BY HUDSON
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fringe jakect BLANK DENIM lace up print dress AZALEA
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jacket AZALEA gray sweater ALEXANDER WANG skirt The FIFTH bag RAG & BONE
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blouse WON HUNDRED dress RODEBJER
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FASHION WEEK 2015
The Showcase of Fyodor Golan’s Women “Transformers” London | SS 2016 Fashion Show
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Ever since their debut at London Fashion Week in 2012, Fyodor Podgorny and Golan Frydman have never failed to surprise us with their idiosyncratic designs. From the earliest “Flowers of Evil” to the Autumn/ Winter 2015 collection inspired by “My Little Pony”, the designer duo have demonstrated an exceptional ability in turning concepts-often borrowed from literature, music and movies into reality with a texture. This time, Spring/Summer 2016, it is the “Transformer”, an idea that is reminiscent of the cartoon series and toys created in the 80s, which fueled the imagination of adults and children back in a time when we still very much lived in the real, and less “virtual,” world.
The ”Transformers” motif was evidenced in the form of small robot patterns, which were printed in bright neon colors on sweatshirts or skirts. The metallic sensation was also reinforced through the use of materials such as leather and transparent plastics, the application of heavy eye-shadow and excessive earrings. What also caught the audience’s eyes were the unconventional cuts: Skirts and dresses were hacked and styled in jagged layers; shirts and jackets were long and oversized, featuring either protruding or asymmetrical sleeves. Spaghetti-strap tops and dresses complemented the whole look with a touch of femininity, so did details such as rose prints, frills and layers of chiffon.
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“Playful adolescent aesthetics, pure colour combinations and distinctive 3D textiles are the essence of the FG image.” — Fyodor
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Golan
The best part, however, was the hightech vitality invoked by the fluorescent fabric and echoed by the high fluorescent platform soles. The green color particularly reminded one of flickering numbers and codes on a digital screen. Technological savvy definitely makes up part of the picture of the modern woman that Fyodor and Golan have in mind, but what else? Look closer: The sandals were exaggerated versions of Japanese Geta colored in simple white or with neon straps, and the long black dress with knots all over was similar in structure to a kimono. The multicultural influences and high-tech finishes that had already been present in the duo’s earlier “Crocodile” collection, but perhaps this time they were merely paying tribute to Takara Tomy, the company that originally produced the line of Transformers toys.
Whichever it was, Fyodor Golan’s SS16 Collection was another interpretation of the duo’s slogan of “wardrobe for today’s global modern and iconic women”. Some might call it “candy-coated fashion”, but it could also be pure playfulness.
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MODEST CHIC by Red Valentino
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or Spring 2016 Red Valentino’s two powerful designers, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli, offered a Marie Antoinette-inspired collection with a bohemian twist. Red Valentino never goes wrong with monochrome colors combines casual cuteness with smart elegance. Another interpretation of the brand’s signature “modest chic” style, Red Valentino’s spring collection skillfully mixes lace, silk, leather and denim to create a style that is elegant, smart, casual and hip. Elements such as round, deep V-shaped or slightly standing shirt collar, floral patterns, tower skirts and bow tie accessories all add to femininity that is already outlined by the collection’s A-line silhouette. Such as wallpaper patterns are transformed into pastel prints, short dresses feature built-in corsets, embroidered birds embellish liven up the light sleeves. All these kinds of clothing are paired with lace-up boots, contrasting heel patterned sneakers, socks and pointy pumps with bows. Even canvas shoes are represented and the result is young feminine loveliness. The best part is the bold reference to corsets, which are incredibly contemporary while royally elegant. We have a reason to believe the princesses, whose existence Hollywood movies have convinced us of, will all be wearing them next season.
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SPRING IS BLOOMING
KATE SPADE NEW YORK
“A SPRING MORNING”
Through whole collection of Kate Spade New York Spring 2016, the designer wants to share a story of balmy spring in this collection.
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Kate Spade New York
Kate Spade’s creative director Deborah Lloyd used the season itself as her inspiration for Spring/Summer 2016 collection show during New York Fashion Week. Leave it to Llyod to keep it interesting: Kate Spade introduced a brand new line, which was inspired by Bodega’s flowers in the
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vibrant New York flower markets, Broome Street. The floral bodega could let guests to dell that they had left the city completely with bursts of roses and daisies as far as one can see.
Spring and flowers, flowers and spring. Reductive yes; smart, absolutely! This trend is here to stay for a while, and for Kate Spade it is flowers as far as we can see, from a big red abstrct organza flower bow on the black belt, to small flowers in grayscale shades splattered on an A-line shirt, and plenty of transparent petals’ printed on a pink shirt. All those floral prints with colorful clothing were accentuated by the runway, featuring more than 30,000 flowers in this springlike presentation.
Kate Spade bags have gathered a cult following. The cheerful S/S 2016 collection offers them in a variety of options, from a more classic black and gold stitched flap clutches to quirky nature inspired handbags. Between floral looks and bright colors, Kate Spade woman will need to make sure she doesn’t blend in too much into her seasonal surroundings.
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NEW YORK FASHION WEEK REBECCA MINKOFF 2016 S/S Collection
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When it comes to balance coolness and femininity, Rebecca Minkoff is pretty gifted. Opening with the music of Borne’s, whose alternative rock style set the tone for the whole show, Minkoff’s 2016 Spring Summer collection immediately evoked a vintage sensibility that is reminiscent of the sixties and seventies. The combined use of leather and metallic accessories were the statement of a modern woman about her strong and independent qualities and yet at the same time chiffon’s lightness and transpar-
ency and a highlighted waistline softened the toughness and brought out the sentimental side of the female. Shirts and skirts with above-the-knee length are a definite breakthrough from Minkoff’s more conservative past series; Elements such as bra, crop top, tasseled bags, collars with varied shapes and irregular cuts at the shoulders and around the waist also added a bit twist.
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REBECCA MINKOFF’S BOHO SPIRIT REBECCA MINKOFF S/S 16 READY-TO-WEAR
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It was smart of Minkoff to play with simple and classic colors—mostly white and black but also occasionally grey and lilac, which brought cuts and patterns to the forefront of attention. Contrast was however not merely reflected by the colors, but has became something more fundamental in this collection: embodied by a model with a leather jumpsuit, an obvious reference to Marianne Faithfull staged in The Girl on a Motorcycle, Minkoff’s design was at once
a tribute to Faithful and a contemporary rendering of the cute and edgy female, be her a rock star, or a normal college girl. The show was also livened by an Intel drone circling in the room, a technological knowhow that Minkoff has clearly mastered in order to entertain the audience—last year it was wearable smart gadgets. Remember? The question though, is that when 60s rock or Bohemian is only relevant in commercialized runway shows, is the spirit still alive?
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FIRST
sunglasses BUFFALO EXCHANGE bucket bag ELIZABETH AND JAMES nail polish AMERICAN APPAREL paper / tile props FLAX, SCRAP
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Photographer: Anthony Rogers Stylist: Laynie Rouch
DATE
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FASHION WEEK 2016
#TOMMY x GIGI New York Fashion Week Fall 2016 36
“It’s a really great mix of the classic East Coast style of Tommy Hilfiger and my West Coast style. But all of them are really me.” — Gigi Hadid
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“All Really Gigi” On the night of Sep 9th, Tommy Hilfiger debuted with Gigi Hadid a great fashion carnival at Tommy Pier in New York City during the New York Fashion Week 2016. The new capsule Fall Collection was designed in collaboration with the 21-year-old super model, whose huge fan base on social media fueled up what Hilfiger referred to as “a multi-media extravaganza”. A runway show amidst carousels and neon lights, the event offered more than just eye-grabbing looks. The real surprise? Not only was the show broadcast live online to a global audience, but the complete Fall 2016 Women’s Collection could also be purchased in stores within 24 hours or online immediately. As one of this season’s must-haves, Tommy Hilfiger’s classical nautical look was fuesd with Gigi Hadid’s hippy and rock-and-roll-inspired aesthetic. Iconic Tommy Hilfiger stripes were featured throughout the collection, but there were also many fresh and sexy pieces that Gigi herself is famous for wearing on the street in everyday life, such as a grey sporty suit under silk bombers, black high-rise skinny leather pants, oversized hoodies with satin basketball tanks, and mini zip-on skirts. Naval detailing and embellishments were balanced with different size, shapes and textures. For instance, long chiffon dress for work, glamour leather for party, oversize jacket and cozy knits for casual lifestyle. All of them were layered, mixed and matched to create a multitude of want-to-wear-it-now looks. Sophisticated with a youthful twist, everything in the #TOMMYXGIGI collection, everything felt more tangible, younger, cooler, more street style and more Gigi. Hadid spoke on The View while heading to a television appearance on last Friday morning, “It’s a really great mix of the classic East Coast style of Tommy Hilfiger and my West Coast style. But all of them are really me.” Last but not least, for TommyXGigi collection 2016, it’s still young and fun, still very Tommy, and very Gigi!! Congratulations! Tommy Pier, New York City Photography by Vogue
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House of Holland
London Fashion Week Spring Summer 2017
Designer | Henry Holland
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House of Holland Brings Fun to Fashion
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t is a big day for Henry Holland at London’s old Spitalfields Market. In celebration of the brand’s 10th anniversary, Holland showcased a new collection which was filled with frills, grids and floral patterns. Since that first sensational “I’ll Tell You Who’s Boss Kate Moss” slogan, Holland has more or less established his own signature style at the London fashion scene. This new collection also showcased his iconic mix of nifty girlish and bright eye-catching colors. “I loved the color and youth that this collection exuded. Designers like Henry Holland remind you that fashion is meant to be fun,” said Jenna Wojciechowski, Allure’s Associate fashion editor. The presentation started with a blue-white-purple gingham printed look: a floral painted oversize bomber jacket with unique collar design, and a ruffling down angled skirt, completed with dramatic patchwork leather ankle boots. Many pieces are a surprising fusion of different design, mixing elements from must-buy track suits, floral net dresses, special neckbands, swingy leather flares, floral lace dresses, and mesh tank tops that are actually a full length dress with embroidered roses. There are many uses for many looks from this collection. Holland’s aesthetics is always tinted with a bit of fun, which as subtle as it might be, is what most commercial design lack, and which is perhaps why his works are so much celebrated and loved. He makes commercial clothes look appealing and original.The best part of the show though, is when all models returned to the runway sporting Holland’s fresh tongue-in-cheek Groupie T-shirt and cool sunglasses in the end. On some of the shirts read, “Stop Making Me Hard Molly Goddard”, “Wanna Party Hillier Bartley” and “Let’s breed Bella Hadid.” “It’s been really nice. The whole point of doing the shirts is to celebrate people that I really love and admire in the industry,” said Holland backstage, after the show. Last tip that is not to be missed: all the collection can be purchased via a mobile app “VIBE” and are also available on Holland’s official website. Shop away!
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SPRING 2017 READY-TO-WEAR
SPORTMAX
Girlish Youth of The Sea Girls From the Sea “The nautical-themed collection was inspired by photographs of female pearl fishers in Japan.”
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he Sportmax new collection took inspiration for its Spring Summer 2017 from the pages of “Shima No Ama�, a long celebrated photobook about Ama diving women in Japan by photographer Kusukazu Uraguchi. Ama women are famous for collecting pearls. It was very much like a seaside party with fresh-faced models running free, their hair pulled back, their golden fish earring worn asymmetrically and the straw beanie adding all the more playfulness to the sea-fare attire.
Undulating silhouettes were complemented with ruched pockets, oversized sleeves, belted eyelets, and the not-to-forget lovely fish prints. Yes this collection was inspired by the very sea where Ama women dive deep, holding their breath for sometimes longer than 2-3 minutes, collecting special oysters that make pearls. Pearl as we know add a unique touch to our looks. And similar details on each look made the collection even more arresting and joyful for the upcoming spring and summer season.
The palette of the show was maritime mix of blue, white and black with dashes of red, spread and splashed onto fabrics canvas made of soft cotton and crumpled silk. The fresh and light textures carried an air of sportiness as well as fine design.
tions. Ruched white skirt hoist up side seams, creating a fitted waistline and the use of drawstring in tightening satin mules and shortening gigot-sleeves struck many as an idea that is reminiscent of our childhood fun playing by the sea.
Fabulous tiny metal threads were woven into white palazzo pants, red jumpsuits and bolero jackets to imitate the fish-net effect. The highlight of the show, however, was definitely the way Sportmax played with ruched fabrics and drawstrings to create one-of-a-kind propor-
As a final touch, shoes and leather bags were paired well to match the sea-infused collection. Sportmax, Max Mara’s younger sister, successfully demonstrates a new vector in the brand’s ability to stay youthful and relevant.
“Businesswomen” Keyed U At Paris Fashion Week
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“Paris fashion week has always been major, but we’re seeing much more newness now,” says Sarah Rutson, vice-president of global buying at Net-a-Porter. “It’s not just about the big established brands any more, there are so many debuts on and off schedule.” She namechecked Off-White as one of the new key players. The popular American designer Virgil Abloh’s Off-White label was reinventing contemporary Parisian Fashion omce again on Thursday night, September XX with his sprin/ summer 2017 “Businesswomen” collection. Abloh presented his new vision of the modern young woman whose style would be “officemeets-street” in its appeal. Apparently, this new collection was inspired by the Mike Nichols film “Working Girl.” It featured a rewrite of traditionally office-appropriate elements which are refer to empowering silhouettes and muscling staples. Alboh wanted to design clothes for the women he himself is friends with: “They’re empowered, they pay their own bills, they have their own style, they again wear clothes, the clothes don’t wear them.”
Designer Abloh began his show lineup with some feminine blue stripes on shirts and skirts, which were then followed by white suits and a group of powerful red looks. The show featured a total of 36 looks, which included some off-shoulder and pinstripe separates, and skirts with asymmetrical hemline. There was also one black-and-white checkered ruffle gown. The show wouldn’t be complete without the famous Abloh monogram of O.F.F. in red and green embroidery peppered throughout the collection. If the integration of sportswear and formal attire is an expected trend, one has to wonder how can designers differentiate themselves from others? For Abloh it was the shoes. His choice of a pair of red tube socks against purple open toe stilettos was both creative and exciting. It very much stood out from the crowd. A pair of red sneakers were worn with a pair of red gym socks, added a much needed flair. It might come as a surprise that Kayne West and his wife Kim Kardashian were in attendance. However, there are a perfect target customer for Off-White, in fact Kardashian said that she was “blown away” and “want everything.” So do we!
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Off-White SPRING 2017 READ-TO-WEAR Paris Fashion Week Photography by Vogue
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F R airy
Photographer: Xianyong Wang Hair & Makeup: Li Xie @Tony Studio / YSL Beauty China Model: Marketa @M2 Stylist: Sonya Sun & Xi Wang
omance
blush NARS#GAIETY USD30 foundation BOBBI BROWN#01 USD50 lipstick MAKE UP FOR EVER#M203 USD22
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eye shadow SEPHORA COLLECTION USD45 lipstick BURBERRY#65 USD33
lace dress KEEPSAKE
eyebrow SMASHBOX#TAUPE USD28 mascara DIOR#DIORSHOW USD29.5 lipstick GIVENCHY#24 USD33
tank dress SHINE MODA
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Technology and Fashion
ARE DRIVING EACH OTHER FORWARD The fashion industry has been influenced from the advances in technology — they go hand-in-hand with each other. You can now merge technology with fashion in endless ways: find inspiration from other fashionistas, find a pair of pants to match your blouse, or use an app to post your outfit-of-the day, and be a potentialAstylist to others. For many years, the spread and development of fashion has relied on technology. Beginning in the mid-1800s, fashion brands were introduced through retail catalogues allowing access from even the most remote locations. Fast-forward 100 years and the most effective ways to reach the consumer include magazines and television commercials. In the last 20 years, consumers have been introduced to a very convenient and useful revolutionary technology in the form of computer apps and the Internet. In addition to the fashion news, trends, and events, how does one get fashion information? There is no doubt that technology plays a big role.There are hundreds of fashion apps out there, and are a few:
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Cloth
The Cloth app lets you save and organizes photos of your favorite outfits, with the weather conditions noted for easy future searches. It’s free for you to create their own categories and view friends’ outfit feeds, which make you virtual closet dream come true.
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Whisp
A messaging app focused sololy on fashion, currently available on iPad and web, and the iPhone. You can browse thousands of products from over 5,000 brands and then drag and drop best images of the items onto your personal Facebook or your “Whisps” chats. Most importantly, you are never directed to an item that’s sold out because every product featured on site are shoppable.
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Tradesy
Tradesy is a unique technology platform to lead peer-to-peer online fashion marketplace for buyers and sellers. It encourages the buying and selling of premium items by guaranteeing authenticity, which protects customers from designer fakes and knockoff goods.
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Pinterest lets you organize and share all the beautiful things you find on the web. It is easy for people to “pin” a picture, an outfit or an article they like, and with one click to their pinboard as the sources. Whether it’s vacation plans, new gadgets, favorite recipes, fashion or the latest home decor, Pinterest is an easy way for you to get any inspiration.
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T echnology is also giving some significant opportunities to fashion industry workers that previously wouldn’t have them. For example, Lauren Sherman examines Peter Fitzpatrick’s
“ Will ‘Uber for Models’ Disrupt the Industry?” Lauren Sherman said in the Business of Fashion’s August 12th article.
new venture Swipecast. Unlike traditional modeling which involves an agency, Swipecast is an app that gives models the ability to be their own manager, meaning they can promote and negotiate for themselves, essentially giving them greater control of their career. Modeling agencies traditionally take up to 33% to represent the models, but Swipecast only takes 10% and just like Uber, the models and hiring companies can evaluate and rate them. T echnology has changed the fashion industry forever and is as important as the good design of products. While technology boosts the commercial aspect of fashion, fashion is also doing the same things to tech. Fashion gave
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a changing aesthetic value to technology, so the products are both good looking and functional. With the fierce competition of the tech industry, it definitely needs fashion to survive. For example, Apple realizes that consumers want the latest gadgets and they also are coming to terms with the fact they want them to be fashionable as well. Even though Apple Watch is a fine piece of technology, which has already proven its function, the company is considering itself at the forefront of beautiful appearances. There are three special and chic designs of the watchband: one for the gym, another for work, and the last for a casual stroll through the city. Consumers could choose each of them for a different occasion. Meanwhile, in 2014, Apple teamed up with Michael Kors to design fashion-forward phone chargers that would appeal to those who want to be chic.
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One of these new inventions is Ringly, Now, it is on the market with look like a unique gemstone ring, but really it is synced to your iPhone and vibrates when you receive a text or notification. It is perfect for when you are in a meeting or on a date and don’t want to be rude by checking your phone. Technology and fashion have influenced each other in countless ways, and it is clear that their merger will affect the future of dressing and the technology we incorporate into our wristbands, shoes, dress and so on.
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| MAKEUP ARTIST| ENTREPRENEUR | YOUTUBE VIDEO BLOGGER
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The Story of a Dreamer
Makeup is charming and powerful: it allows us to be who we want to be and be seen as we want to be seen. But those of us who wear makeup know to wield that power wisely is no easy task; it requires an innovative mind and a heart willing to experiment. One such artist is Michelle Phan, and if you do not know her yet, here is a story that will feed you with all the inspiration you need, for makeup, and maybe for your life as well. Michelle Phan is a Vietnam-born American girl, who first rose to fame in 2007 because of her video makeup tutorials on YouTube. The videos were originally fan requests on the beauty blog that she started in 2005. Over the course of seven years Phan has uploaded more than 300 self-edited videos and has had over 1 billion views and 8 million subscribers, an influence that successfully helped her to transform from a blogger and makeup demonstrator to a celebrity entrepreneur with two makeup lines (IQQU and em Cosmetics) and an author of a book—“Make Up: Your Life Guide to Beauty, Style, and Success -- Online and Off.” She also co-founded a venture firm—Shift Music Group, a makeup subscription startup--ipsy and premium lifestyle networks ICON and FAWN (For All Women Network). And hold your breath for this: Earlier this year, this 28-year-old girl made it to the Forbes 30 under 30 lists. retty impressive, right? But if you P check out Phan’s YouTube videos, you
will instantly understand her success. From easy and natural everyday looks, to the fantasy looks of Egyptian Queen or a Hollywood actress, from the sweet look of an angel baby to the ultimate seductive bad girl, from Lunar New Year beauty to a Valentine’s Day DIY or a Vampire makeup, Phan’s videos cover it all! No kidding, even someone as unadventurous as me found many of my alter ego looks there. It is hard not to admire Phan’s makeup skills and innovative ability to create with subtle tricks. Most important of all, all of the videos are innovative, clever, fun, well-edited and easy to follow. Raised by a single mother who owned a nail salon, Phan was exposed to beauty at an early age, but also had a love for art and drawing. Although turning her hobby into a business was not what Phan had envisioned when she first set up a video channel, she has earned her success by continuous effort and determination. She knew to stay relevant she had to constantly evolve and innovate and an online job meant being open 24/7, which was a huge commitment but at the same time fulfilling. Having achieved her biggest dream, which was to help her mom retire early, a goal not uncommon among young Asians, Phan is now fully taken up by the new challenge to run her business. Perhaps if you have a dream, you should wake up and realize it, too because all girls with talent, perseverance and ambition deserve to be blessed.
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(The lady boss of ANOMIE Boutique, Chelsea Moylan)
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Interview by Sonya Sun Photography by Sonya Sun
(ANOMIE Boutique, 2149 Union Street // San Francisco)
INTERVIEW
Chelsea Moylan
It is safe to say that every girl dream at one time or another to open up a fashion boutique (unique and everything comes to her personal ideas). This lovely lady, Chelsea Moylan, did just that. While her beginning did not begin in fashion (because she earned her master degree in sociology and criminology in 2012), there is no doubt that this style savvy business woman set-up her business on fashion, which focused on an international platform. Moylan currently owns her boutique on Union St, San Francisco, called ANOMIE. In this endeavor, it is apparent that her passion and talent is a success. ANOMIE is a chic and sophisticated boutique stocked with covetable clothing, designer handbags, and vintage jewelry. At ANOMIE, you’ll find effortless staple items with tht best cut and style, and you can dress best in the most unique fashion without paying much to get it. So, you want to open a fashion boutique? Read about Moylan’s case about her stylish and creative career below.
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Q: How do you pronounce “ANOMIE” and why is your boutique called this name? A: It is pronounced: an - oh – me. It is named after a time when I was in graduate school, and I studied in criminology, which is different than fashion. “Anomie” came from sociology and criminological theory. I like this name because many of these items that we carried here are handmade items or the items came from small designers. And the sociological term “anomie,” has many meanings but I liked the idea of organic solidarity and the division of labor, which rely on people to fit different needs and society. So, I like that, and we have the girl makes jewelry, the girl makes clothes, and I rely on all of them and they come together and build this store. Q: How did you get your start in the fashion industry? A: I got the start in the fashion industry just by opening this store, and I never worked in retail or fashion before. It was the first thing that I did; we opened online two years ago, and we just opened our location right here in September. And then, I spent a lot of time making YouTube videos and sharing my outfits that people always love those. Thus, I have confidence because people care about what I pick out and so now I am going to tell them what to buy. Q: What and who influence you when buying for
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your store? A: For every single thing carried in the store, I ask myself one question “ would I buy that?” The store is certainly anything that I want and likes that why we carry staffs that regions from ceramics to lipsticks, to sunglasses, to art clothes to underwear and just everything that I want, and I just want to make a tiny department store. So really just about would be my friends buy this I will be wearing this. Q: One imagines that running a boutique has its challenges, what are the challenges? A: For the challenging parts, it was difficult to transition sometimes because we have real shop that people can come in. However, we have people return damaged things because they try them on makeup illuminated. So, the most challenging part has been like is also the most fun part dealing with people, but dealing with people is having been walk in the line. Q: Do you think that having a fashion merchandising background, or taking fashion or business coursed help in the fashion business? A: It possibly been super helpful for me because I entered into it I was not familiar with what I was doing, and I learned along the way. It was unbacked that I didn’t know anything two years ago. If I learned before, it must be helpful to save time. I believe taking fashion merchandising and having experience in fashion before
I opened my boutiques was most definitely a huge contributor to my success. Q: The boutique is based in San Francisco, CA. What are the trends of fashion you’ve taken note of in that city? A: I found here the girls in neighborhoods, they love simple, basics are best-selling items, and they love the sleeve lace that is tight, and tank dresses that go down to make a cut, such as the brand called BLQ from LA. Most people think San Francisco is not fashion forward like New York and that is why some stuff is more unique; we would more sell online, and things seem more basic, it will sell in the store. Q: And what are your favorite trends for S/S 2017? What current trend makes you cringe? A: I would like to say my favorite trends are art T-shirt, retro style like big crazy pants just like I love your pants which have much colorful stone stuff. I am a big fan of fun and unique things; I always believe have fun what you are wearing, but also make me simple, like very nice, beautiful fabric. For current trends, sometimes I like some fringe stuff, for the most part like some design is super boho, like a long fringe dress with the cowboy boot, which is very California life. I still don’t like that in general.
A: For today, I dress very quick because I only have five minutes, so today is not my best example. I would like to say; my personal style is very eclectic; you prefer to show my Instagram “CHELSEAWEARS” to you because I put all my outfits on it. For example, one day I wear very blackly, super model and then another day will be completely retro with a brown hat. It is just like do whatever fun and feels good. Q: The last question, what are some of your goals for the future of your boutique? A: I would love to be able to grow my online business, we have studio space that I also work all days when I am not here instead of being able to build it up and make the online store bigger because that can grow as big as you want and they have rich more people and also keep the store going. I plan to devote more of myself to developing the quality of the online ANOMIE experience over this next year and finally achieve the perfect online/brick and mortar balance.
Q: How would you describe your personal style?
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stripe dress MONKI tulle dress CHRIS by CHRISTOPHER BU blush Estée Lauder PINK KISS USD34 lipstick YSL#51 USD37 eyeshadow SISLEY#09 USD48
Sweet Lollipop
eyeliner GIORGIO ARMANI#4 USD30 eyeshadow CPB#208 USD45 lipstick GUERLAIN#PRNM16-35G USD32
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earring MOSCHINO T-shirt MOSCHINO dress MO&CO socks & shoes PRIVATE
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Photographer: Xianyong Wang Hair & Makeup: Li Xie @Tony Studio / YSL Beauty China Model: Alessia @M2, Xiaohan Wei @China Bentley Culture Stylist: Sonya Sun & Xi Wang glasses FENDI lipstick DIOR ROUGE#999 USD35
hoodie GOZO earring YVMIN eyeshadow Lancôme STICK#07 USD27 lipstick MAMONDE#05
BEAUTY’SCOUNTLESS
DEFINITIONS As anyone can see from the definition of beauty in the dictionary, the general meaning of the word is: the quality or aggregate of qualities in a person or thing that gives pleasure to the senses or pleasurably exalts the mind or spirit (Webster.) To me, beauty is more than appearance; it’s more of an overall wonderful feeling, like when someone looks at you with admiration and respect or when you are falling in love or have achieved a goal. The fashion industry’s view of beauty is quite different as well. They are focused on youth and promoting products through models who are much taller, thinner and more beautiful than the average person. The fashion industry sets the standards for beauty and often has the final word on the subject. The industry’s most obvious examples are its supermodels. Their appearance dictates what’s considered beautiful both on and off the runway. At the 2016 New York Fashion Week, more than three-quarters of the models were white, and all of them were skinny and tall. This basically sends the message to the world that a slender and young, white figure is beautiful and that people should want to appear like this. In addition, the most watched and influential fashion show is almost upon us——as the Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show. In this show, 51 “angels” hit the runway in Paris, which includes the most stunning and biggest models in the industry, such as Gigi Hadid, her sister Bella Hadid and Kendall Jenner. Why do more than 10 million people watch this fashion show and why does it appeal to both men and women throughout the world? The answer is, of course, the beautiful angels of Victoria’s Secret. According to the Chief Marketing of the VS Edward Razik, there are fewer than 100 women that in the world have the potential to be angels of Victoria’s Secret. Under fierce competition, all the prospective models have to meet the
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top levels of beauty requirement to become a real angel. There is the key point—be skinny! “Models with a 34inch bust, a 24-inch waist and 34-inch hips are the most desired; however, slight variations are acceptable if the model possesses other more desirable attributes, such as a beautiful face.” In addition to height and measurements, age is a major issue for casting directors. VS extremely focuses on younger ladies whose age range from 18-22, like Bella Hadid and Taylor Hill aged 20, Kendall and Gigi are both 21 years old; however, some well-known models that have a solid foot and strong position in the modeling industry, such as Adriana Lima, Alessandra Ambrosio and Lily Aldridge, are also in the show. The definition of beauty in the fashion industry is also dynamic, unconventional and controversial. Recently, more and more models have been breaking through to change the standard of beauty. Chantelle Brown-Young also known as Winnie Harlow, is a beautiful Canadian dark-skinned model with vitiligo, which causes depigmentation to parts of the skin. Since appearing on America’s Next Top Model’s 21st cycle, the 21-year-old landed Desigual’s fall 2015 campaign as well as gigs for SHOWstudio. With her unique appearance and undeniable confidence, she proves that the unconventional could very well be beautiful and therefore even more intriguing. Additionally, Shaun Ross, who is an albino male model, has made a strong name for himself in the modeling business, walking for fashion houses like Alexander McQueen and Givenchy. Within the traditional standards of fashion and beauty, he would be considered unusual and even ugly. However with his strong features and assertiveness, he is dominating the scene and bringing another level of diversity to this industry.
Models such as Harlow and Ross are redefining what it means to be beautiful. They are giving the fashion industry a new perspective that will hopefully open the door to even more uncommon, fresh, and unique faces on the runways and covers of magazines.
“We are activists, innovators, achievers and inspirations. We are the lives and change we create, and that is beauty.” — Lexi Herrick
Except the face and color of skin, there is 5-foot-5 and plus-XXL-size body unlikely model, Tess Holliday, who also breaks up the normal beauty standard. While the average model is over 5-foot-9 and wears a size 0/2, Holliday wears a size 22, is 4 inches shorter and has some massive tattoos on her skin. Regardless of those, Tess Holliday became the first plus-size supermodel to be signed a big-deal contract to the MiLK model agency and launched a huge number of high-profile fashion campaign and collaborated with a plenty of mainstream fashion magazine, like People and Refinery 29. Nowadays, Holliday has tapped into the zeitgeist and gained more than 1.4 million followers on Instagram. Because of her encouraging story and experience, she was rated the one of the 30 most influential people on the Internet by TIME Magazine. There is no one person, company, country, culture or concept that could ever define beauty. We are all unique women and men; we are different shapes, colors, sizes, backgrounds and are of different heritages. To echo the statement of Lexi Herrick from The Huffington Post publisher, “We are activists, innovators, achievers and inspirations. We are the lives and change we create, and that is beauty.” Basically, because of our differences, we have different attitudes and impressions of beauty. This is reason that beauty comes along with a bunch of definitions.
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Kendall Jenner, Photograph by Pinterest
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Chantelle Brown-Young, Photograph by Pinterest
FLOURESCENT
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halter /shorts / hat AMERICAN APPAREL white 2 pieces set URBAN OUTFITTERS
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jacket RAGGED PRIEST white 2 piece set URBAN OUTFITTERS hat AMERICAN APPAREL
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Photographer: Aleesha Woodson Hair & Makeup: Tamara Locke Model: Alyssa Stylist: Laynie Rouch
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BALMAIN X H&M ​ 100
A Nation United By Fast Fashion?
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he latest collection in a series of H&M’s collaborations with high-profile designers is set to arrive in stores in two weeks’ time on November 5. This time it is with Olivier Rousteing, the director of French luxury brand Balmain. From the big announcement at the Billboard Music Awards this May to the 2015 autumn-winter runway show earlier this week, this collaboration has made the headlines numerous times.
“ It shows the collaboration is not only about beautiful clothes, it’s also about creating a new fashion world of diversity and community, a positive message of tolerance, happiness, peace, and freedom. ” —Olivier Rousteing
NIt is hard for anyone to ignore the collection’s shiny beading and elaborate embroidery, and what is perhaps even harder to ignore is the hashtag #HMBalmaination that has been popping up everywhere on Instagram. Fast fashion, perhaps one of the greatest inventions in the history of marketing, already deserves to be examined in its own right. But when combined with a social media campaign? It makes a media spectacle. The H&M x Balmain campaign is definitely a successful one. Rousteing alone has 1.1 million followers on Instagram. Together with his models girls Kendall Jenner and Jourdan Dunn, he has a formidable power of influence. As he stated in the interview with VOGUE.com, Rousteing’s idea between the digital campaign and the collaboration itself was to “unite people” and have them join a “new nation of warriors from the entire world.” His goal is both ambitious and thought-provoking.
fashion is about stating one’s individuality confidently, isn’t an empire of warriors dressed in the same mass-produced clothes freaky? Is it not just another version of uniform? Some might get Rousteing’s positive message of “tolerance, happiness, peace, and freedom”, but I fail to see the “new fashion world of diversity and community”-he mentioned in Vogue. It is important to note here that fast fashion has come to exist because there is a niche market for it. To be more exact, it satisfies people’s psychological desire to be like the privileged that enjoy haute couture. Of course, I am not in a position to judge people’s desires or needs. In fact, what I find far more interesting is to look at the bigger picture—the production network and the life journey of a fast produced garment. In the case of the H&M x Balmain collaboration, Rousteing’s idea of a “united nation” is perhaps the perfect irony. It is a fair guess that the people “united” here are not only those who are waiting eagerly to get in the frontline on November 5, but also people from developing countries in Africa or Asia who are working overtime for a minimum wage. If poorly produced, how long is the piece going to last before it goes to a flea market, a charity shop or into a waste bin? Moreover, with the fast turnover speed, disposability and waste have already become an issue.
Who are the warriors? Are the people who fight to get in the queue for a couple of quickly produced, cheaply priced garments that magically embody tolerance and happiness, peace and freedom, sexiness and power— the allegedly “true spirit of Balmain”? If
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Being fast is cool, but how many clothes should we produce before we start to consider others and the environment we live in? I am not making the case against H&M, or Rousteing’s fans, who have every right to choose who and what they like, all that I am saying is that by asking one or two extra questions—where do the clothes come from and where are they going to end up—we are offered a different perspective in looking at fast fashion, and its relation with capitalism and globalization .
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Remember, remember, the 5th of November. This time, it is not so much about a British political conspiracy (go watch V for Vendetta, if you have not yet); it is the whole world being involved in yet another fast and furious capitalist invention. And that is not an all-glamorous picture.
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