Graduate Project: Ethereal Beauty Womanswear Collection Spring/ Summer 2020 Sophia Essmeier 4th Yr Fashion, Knitwear & Textiles 18/05/2020
Design Process
Shape at start taken from standwork Bodice created from cast on cast off technique - Small panels knitted then linked together For Daisy layring unsure how to create but thinking ruf�les made from both knit & Material
For clusters part maybe use a smocking or shirring technique to create texture
Panels of lace knit inbetween ruf�les
Volumonous ruf�le shoulders inspired by daisies For skirt use a light �lowey material -Printed Textile with surface embellisment
I love how pretty the shirring technique is, it gives great texture & ruf�le effect
Used for bodice & Shirt panels
Beginning of Line Up
New & Of�icial Line Up
Look 1 Inspiration
Adding Ruf�les to Look one
Unsure what to do at the back, may look weird around the bum
Need to play around on placement of ruf�les and add more to bottom Ruf�les made using longest stitch on machine - straight seam no backstitch so you can make ruf�le more ruf�ly
Want to add beading throughout skirt probably in linear sections.
Ruf�le Swatch
Look 1 Top Production
Changes to the origional
-Changed racer neckline to asymmetric top
-Added an Organza Sleeve with the same print as underskirt.
Top just needing to be darned and for strap to be attatched Knitted up & Linked the top with picot edging
Production of Look 1
Make 5 row picot edge rib (on tension 4)
Bead row after picot rib, pulling stitch half way back enough to bit beads properly. -Picot Rib (5 rows) -Row of beading -Hand knit 1 row then cast off proper needles -Knit 100 rows of tuck lace -Every 100 rows (for 400 rows) picot edge & bead a row then knit another 100 rows Tension 2 for lace tuck technique
Skirt Adaptation from origional:
-No longer putting frills on because it’s taking from the delicate picot edge & beading
-Underskirt will be double layred powernet that will attatch to waitband of knit skirt -Adding Plain Knit panels on sides of dress
Look 1 Side Panel Production Calculations of side panel using lenght of lace knit panels.
Swatch of side panel using measurments of mannequin
Seperate waistband to be linked on & end of panel a picot edge to match edge of bottom of lace knit panels
Linking on side panels with picot ribing sandwiching two panels together
One side panel attatched trying
I let the fully linked skirt hang for 5 days so it had fully droppped. I then took the measurments from it to make the underskirt
Laying them down �lat to make sure the beading lines up front & back
I hand sewed the underskirt to the botton of the wasit band For underskirt I double lined the powernet and sewed both together using a zig-zag stitch
Look 1
Look 1 asymmetric top & tuck lace knit skirt with swarovski crystal beading & Powernet digitally printed underskirt
Strap is Swarovski beaded panel with both edges picot ribbed.
Size 12 but mannequin is size 10 so slightly too big
Side panel is plain knit with picot binding the tuck lace to knit side panels
Picot edge waist band with elastic fed through.