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A/W 16 Berlin Trend Report
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By Sophie Churchill
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VM & IN-STORE Fig 5.
Industrial Re-Evloution Low Budget, High Impact Meticulous Mindset
PRINT AND GRAPHIC Street Sketcher Block Party Yours Sincerely
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A/W 16
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CREATIVE DIRECTION Outide In Deconstructed Expression Decoding Tomorrow
MENSWEAR
Established Trends
Utilitarian X+X=Y Intrepid Explorer Fig 8.
Industrial Re-Evolution
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Large factory spaces stripped back to expose brickwork, rough timbers, and steel structures, encompasses this overarching aesthetic. Bright trade show saw the evolution of this, with rust, stone and pipework showcasing key textures and materials, specific to this trend. Premium greeted its audience with tube lighting and free hanging light bulbs, denoting the industrial trend. The minimalistic, rustic look compliments the creative direction of foliage, using natural materials and creating a sense of making-do and recycling. LAFN2 introduced Raw and rough surfaces juxtaposed with clean and flat ones, using their space as a multipurpose platform for clothing, furniture as well as a catwalk. The popular industrial trend uses traits from Edward Wansdworth’s artistry who was influenced largely by his northern industrial environment upbringing, using the space to be honest with its components, while keeping a colour scheme encompassing warm neutral colours adding shades of grey and tones of white. Pop up mall Bikini Berlin epitomized this trend using a permanent box structure of wood and mesh metal to create their stores.
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VM & IN-STORE
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Low Budget, High Impact
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Authenticity doesn’t always have to be expensive. Low budget, high impact explores this theory on a creative level, transforming undesirable objects into advantageous commodities. Resourcefulness plays a key role in this trend, as well as innovative imagination. Certain stores inside bikini berlin revolutionised their signage by creating handmade signs with gender symbols in order to state the clothing male or female. Premium saw inventive use of sectioning, using tape on the floor to separate themselves from other competitors. Additionally the same brand created some original slogans and framed them to enhance their brand essence. Jacks beauty store was king of inventive metamorphosis, using paint splatters over their counterparts and making their magazine rack into a series of hanging bats. This imperfect, unpolished merchandising was fresh and engaging, developing a unique in store design. Bikini Berlin developed their hanging rails by elevating them with rope, a contemporary change in in store design. Developing objects and materials beyond their original function to create an ingenious new purpose is at the heart of this trend.
VM & IN-STORE
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Meticulous Mindset Fig 23.
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With inquisitive attention to detail, this trend uses presentation as a tool to increase the desirability of a product. Yellow Lemon inside Bikini Berlin approached the entirety of their in store design with diligence. Mirrors arrayed to enhance vision of silver wear from different angles, and colour schemes that make macaroons look distasteful, each and every object was positioned with scrupulousness. Seek saw this in a big light, with the upstairs furniture design demonstrating compulsive measurements and specifics to realistically visualise their products in their coveted place. Designers at seek were revolutionising raw and unusual ways to present monotonous fundamentals such as the suitcase. Premium trade show was another pioneer of this trend, with brands such as ‘Some are thieves’ exhibiting their trainers in an array of positions. Much like Piet Mondrian’s specific measurements and shapes in his paintings, the precise displays showcased in Berlin left no detail unturned.
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VM & IN-STORE
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Street Sketcher Fig 27.
The rise of illustration in fashion garments, VM and advertising was particularly apparent in Berlin. A street-wise twist to the illustration, accompanied with an urban underground yet confident aesthetic, can be said to have been inspired by the graphic street art seen in Berlin. The use of strong vibrant colours reflects the fearlessness and confidence of today’s youth. As supported by M. Sukarieh and S. Tannock in their book ‘Youth rising: The politics of youth in the global economy’ the current movement of the ‘free teen’ subculture is said to have driven the fashion trend of graffiti illustration: the street sketcher.
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The mods and rockers movement (1950-1960) also saw the youth driving and instigating fashion trends. Designers such as Mary Quant and John Stephen were directly influenced by the social situation in Britain. Today, designers and brands such as Dandie Zimmerman, Shepard Fairey, Adidas and MiPac have seized influence from graffiti artwork produced by the current urban youth. Playful, lively and spirited, the illustrations carry a mischievous edge to them. Strong adult humour pours out of the cartoon shapes and innuendos are embodied within the complex designs. Antoni Burakowski and Alison Roberts, known for their eclectic and linear drawings, link directly to the character of the illustration seen in Berlin, particularly that of Cleptomanix’s garment print, Adidas’ concept store VM and Tush’s magazine front cover designs.
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PRINT AND GRAPHIC Fig 29.
Block Party Fig 32.
Bright blocks of bold colous were seen creeping through the evident rigid formulated monochrome trend in the Berlin trade shows. Colourblocking obsessives like Peter Pilotto, Missoni and Mochino were inspiration for a handful of desginers and brands seen at the trade shows, in particular those brands based at Bright. Cleptomanix, Vans, MiPac are clear examples of this. Colours have been used in their lines as accents, emphasising the shape, pattern of cut of the clothing. Specific colours noted; alabama crimson, amaranth red, apple green, aqua, air force blue, capri, barbie pink, canary yellow, deep saffron. This evident trend has been reinforced by the designer’s spring 2015 collection that just marched in London Fashion Week. However, it’s more Jim Lambie than Piet Mondrian. More about singular block colour pieces that come pre-loaded with stripes, grids and patchwork as opposed to mixing and fusing together coloured solids.
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PRINT AND GRAPHIC Fig 33.
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Yours Sincerely With the evolving and growing desire consumers have to be unique there is a need for brands to personalise garments and products. Calligraphy is a visual art related to writing. It is a method used to make something personal. It has been used in Islamic art and architecture for decorative purposes and now we are seeing Arabic calligraphy used in fashion. Rudolf Koch notes in his book ‘Typography designs’ the importance of a unique font and ‘how the look of lettering can change the way we emotionally feel towards the product’. Brands at the Berlin trade shows were tapping into this emergent trend of calligraphy, displaying, showing and using hand written fonts. The innovative idea of personalising a font specific to that brand creates an emotive feeling towards the brand. The viewer/ buyer automatically relates and connects to what is being said and directed to them. Handwritten fonts with irregularly sized letters and weights were prevalent throughout the Berlin trade shows, in particular Seek. Fonts that were being repeatedly used include: Ondise, Brush up, Barber shop and Goodfy.
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PRINT AND GRAPHIC Fig 39.
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Outside In Fig 43.
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With curiosity at an all time high and the idea of escapism dominating society, the outdoors has become an increasingly desirable playground for the young nomads of today. It’s all about showcasing the outside world in an interior environment. Elements of nature injecting khaki, monochrome tones throughout collections, stripped back wood becoming a must in stores and green foliage an ever present part of store layout. Creating serenity within the fast paced life we are now encouraged to lead is a crucial part to the creative direction and overall aesthetic throughout all platforms. Intricate patterns are formed through rich, bold foliage prints, creating an element of juxtaposition to the order and structure of interiors, footwear and clothing. A subtle injection of nature throughout trade shows establishes knowledge of the up and coming trend, utilising it to attract attention to collections with the subtle hint of greenery and florals.
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CREATIVE DIRECTION
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Deconstructed Expression
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Graffiti in this day and age is not just an inscription on a wall; it is the complete embodiment of an individual’s personal expression, through the use of colour and pattern. The playful aesthetic and bold colours run throughout the creative direction in-store and print. Pushing the boundaries of moral and social consensus. The underground art forms were a big part of Berlin’s features, showcasing not just simple tags on walls, but beautiful artwork communicating through anonymity and expressing through skill. As an active ambiance creator in public spaces, wall art was a common feature amongst stores and advertisement, injecting a playful nature into the overall creative direction. Urban outfitters particularly embodied this style, filling their interiors with graffiti.
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CREATIVE DIRECTION
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Decoding Tomorrow Fig 53.
Whilst in Berlin there was a constant obsession with technology and future innovation. This ranged from campaigns to instore design to clothing lines. With an established and apparent emergent trend of new technology and the growing digital age, it is clear to see why Berlin tapped into this within art and creative direction. Coding was seen on clothing as were numbers and digital type faces. Emoji’s were also used as signs on walls, posters and brand POS. Whether this was in an attempt to be unique and innovative by engaging with the customer, or purely to utilise the trend of coding, it worked as an eye catching theme and response to what is currently going on in the world.
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CREATIVE DIRECTION
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Utilitarian Fig 58.
\\\\\\  The design industry has slowly become more adventurous in its ways of bringing us concepts that stretch our imagination. With technology ever becoming more intelligent, the creative industries are striving to keep up and sustain aesthetics that appeal to the consumer. With the demand for function growing, innovation turns into dominating trends as buying habits steer towards practical design. Trade shows such as Seek showcased concepts that delivered both practical and design led functions such as umbrellas that were impossible to be blown inside-out. Bikini Berlin also hosted new concepts and proposals for textiles to incorporate technology that enables safety – including built-in tracking devices and the ability for printed patterns to reflect under UV light. It is the injection of such products into these environments, that highlights the importance of utilitarian design within menswear. The notion of practicality and sensibility ruling once again.
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MENSWEAR
X+X=Y Fig 63.
From the geometry of Berlin’s road network through to the structured frames of buildings; clean lines branched across the city and into the trends. Geometric patterns criss-crossed through garments, stretched across floors in store and crept up walls, both outside and in. Most commonly extending from architecture – designs were reflected into knitwear and through techniques such as printing and embroidery. Architects such as Norman Foster and Preston Scott Cohen could be linked to such designs. Origami pleating using structured fabrics also represented architectural themes and folded shapes were also used within garments. Patterns stemmed from grid-like themes to abstract shapes, mimicking mathematical and confident figures. Triangles were commonly featured alongside squares, pentagons and hexagons.
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MENSWEAR Fig 65.
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Intrepid Explorer Fig 68.
Natural materials were seen across many of the trade shows and within other concepts in Berlin – using wood, foliage and stone in many designs within VM and creative direction. Following such themes, garments and products also promoted an alfresco vibe with a huge rise in utilitarian products – suited to the Nomad. Ranging from Aztec and geometric prints in natural, earthy colours seen in accessories such as bags and blankets. Garments also adopted the Lumberjack theme with variations on the classic style shirts, adopting new twists such as collarless, modern statements. The Intrepid Explorer beginning to become a part of trends despite his desire for freedom.
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MENSWEAR Fig 70.
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VM & IN-STORE Quantum Quartz
Petroleum
Gladiola
Rough Timber
PRINT AND GRAPHIC Exposed Brickwork
Magical Swamp
Lively Jester
Mods and Rockers
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Monochrome tones & muted shades were ever present throughout the trends we identified this year. Each trend showcased duller shades, which filtered through the collections. As we can see here within the ‘Print and Graphic’ colour palette, the spot colour, lively jester, is a contrasting brighter toned yellow against the rest of the palette. Subdued Browns and cloudy greens crop up continuously showcasing the underlining nature and rustic industrialization trend, noted under the ‘VM and in-store’ category.
A/W 16
Colour Palette
CREATIVE DIRECTION Botanical Blueprint
Indian Summer
Whimsical Wasabi
Polluted Mind
MENSWEAR Blade
Nymph
Down to Earth
Mineral Drift
Order
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Recylce Reuse
Overlayed Lines
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Youthful
Fur
Cut and Stick
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Symetry
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Steel Bars
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Monochrome tones & muted shades were ever present throughout the trends we identified this year. Each trend showcased duller shades, which filtered through the collections. As we can see here within the ‘Print and Graphic’ colour palette, the spot colour, lively jester, is a contrasting brighter toned yellow against the rest of the palette. Subdued Browns and cloudy greens crop up continuously showcasing the underlining nature and rustic industrialization trend, noted under the ‘VM and in-store’ category.
A/W 16 Patterns and Textures
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References Fig 1. Schmidt. F, 2010, Mind Pattern, Online, Available at: http://dpressedsoul.deviantart.com/art/Mind-Pattern-182891872 Fig 3. Jeffery. V, 2015, Berlin Wall, own photography. Fig 2. Downton. H, 2012, Industrial Pipe and Barn Wood, Online, Available at: https://www.etsy.com/listing/83766445/industrial-pipe-and-barn-wood-coathooks?ref=tre-1741557588-1&favorite_listing_id=83766445&show_panel=true Fig 4. Anon, 2014, Foliage for Flower Arranging, Online, Available at: http://www.hgtv.com/design/decorating/design-101/learn-about-types-of-foliage-for-flowerarranging Fig 5. Churchill S, 2015, Seek Trade Show, photo of VM stand, own photography Fig 6. Churchill S, 2015, Seek Trade Show, campaign photos, own photography Fig 7. Churchill S. 2015, Seek Trade Show, image of entrance, own photography Fig 8. Churchill S. 2015, Seek Trade Show, catalogue image, own photography Fig 9. Montgomerie O. 2015, Premium Tube Tunnel, Own Photography Fig 10. Montgomerie O. 2015, Premium Hanging Lightbulbs, Own Photography Fig 11. Montgomerie O. 2015, LAFN2 Lamp Shades, Own Photography Fig 12. Downton H, 2012, Industrial Pipe and Barn Wood, Online, Available at: https://www.etsy.com/listing/83766445/industrial-pipe-and-barn-wood-coathooks?ref=tre-1741557588-1&favorite_listing_id=83766445&show_panel=true Fig 13. Day, A (2015) Bikini Berlin Glasses Shop, Own Photography & Manipulation Fig 14. Montgomerie, O. 2015, LAFN2 Catwalk, Own Photography Fig 15. Montgomerie, O. 2015, Premium Trade Show: Sectioning, Own Photography Fig 16. Montgomerie O. 2015, Jacks Magazine Stand, Own Photography Fig 16. Montgomerie O. 2015, LAFN2, Own Photography Fig 17. Montgomerie O. 2015, Innovative DIY Rails, Own Photography Fig 18. Montgomerie O. 2015, Jacks Beauty Counters, Own Photography Fig 19. Churchill S. 2015, Bikini Berlin VM, Own Photography Fig 20. Churchill S. 2015, Bikini Berlin Interior Display, Own Photography Fig 21. Montgomerie, O. 2015, Seek Trade Show Furniture & Homewear, Own Photography Fig 22. Montgomerie O. 2015, Seek Trade Show Furniture & Homewear, Own Photography Fig 23. Day A. 2015, Bikini Berlin Glasses Shop, Own Photography & Manipulation
Fig 24. Montgomerie O. 2015, Yellow Lemon Display (scissors), Own Photography Fig 25. Montgomerie O. 2015, Yellow Lemon Display (chocolate), Own Photography Fig 26. Montgomerie O. 2015, Seek Trade Show Furniture & Homewear, Own Photography Fig 28. Churchill S. 2015, graffiti print on Berlin Wall, own photography Fig 27. Churchill S. 2015, street art found in Berlin, own photography Fig 29. Churchill S. 2015, artist painting in bright trade show, own photography Fig 30. Churchill S. 2015, MiAdidas store in Bikini Berlin graffiti, own photography Fig 31. Mods and rockers, 2012, digital image. Available at: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mods_and_rockers [accessed 3rd March] Fig 32. Churchill S. 2015, graffiti print on Berlin Wall, own photography Fig 34. Churchill S. 2015, Mario Testino photography, own photography Fig 43. Churchill S. 2015, MiAdidas shoe parts, own photography Fig 49. Churchill S. 2015, Missoni ‘M’ print, own photography Fig 35. Missoni Print, digital printed image. Available at: http://www.houzz.com/photos/155015/Missoni-Home-Liuwa-Modern-Rug-eclectic-rugs, accessed 4th March Fig 38. Churchill S. 2015, graffiti on door in Berlin, own photography Fig 56. Churchill S. 2015, interior VM clothing line signage, own photography Fig 36. Churchill S. 2015, red jumper with type as garment focus, own photography Fig 37. Churchill S. 2015, pink lit signage found at Premium trade show, own photography Fig 41. Churchill S. 2015, pink lit signage found at Premium trade show, own photography Fig 40. Churchill S. 2015, ‘Fashion weak’ type jumper found at Premium trade show, own photography Fig 39. Anon. Calligraphy, [digital image]. Available at: http://highlandsmuseum.com/calligraphy-exhibit/, accessed 5th March Fig 42. Day, A, 2015, Premium Trade Show greenery display, own photography Fig 43. Day, A, 2015, Bright Trade Show grassy flooring, own photography Fig 47. Day, A, 2015, Adidas concept store foliage print trainer, own photography Fig 45. Day, A, 2015, Seek Trade show entrance sign, own photography Fig 44. Day, A, 2015, Premium Trade Show Timo Collection, own photography Fig 46. Montgomerie, O, 2015, Bright Trade Show ATF, own photography Fig 47. Anon, 2013, 3D Street Art, digital image. Badsentinel. Available at: http://badsentinel.com/2013/08/28/amazing-3d-street-art-44-photos/3d-street-art33/#main, Accessed 7 March 2015. Fig 48. Anon, 2013, 3D Street Art, digital image. Badsentinel. Available at: http://badsentinel.com/2013/08/28/amazing-3d-street-art-44-photos/3d-street-art33/#main, Accessed 7 March 2015. Fig 49. Day, A, 2015, Bikini Berlin Kusmi Tea sachets, own photography Fig 50. Day, A, 2015, Adidas concept in-store layout, own photography Fig 51. Day, A, 2015, Adidas concept in-store layout, own photography Fig 52. Anon, 2008, How Coding Standards Can Impair Application Performance, digital image, Available at: https://devcentral.f5.com/articles/how-codingstandards-can-impair-application-performance, Accessed 12 March 2015. Fig 53. Day A, 2015, German Look at Design historical exhibit, own photography.
Fig 54. Day A, 2015, German Look at Design product exhibit, own photography. Fig 55. Day A, 2015, German Look at Design historical exhibit own photography. Fig 56. Anon, 1943, A large Bell System international switchboard in 1943, digital image, Available at: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Telephone_switchboard, Accessed 11 March 2015. Fig 57. Cowley, J, 2012, fish scales cl, digital image, Available at: http://animal-kid.com/fish-scales.html, Accessed 12 March 2015. Fig 59. Montgomerie. O, 2015, Preach Hanging Garments, own photography. Fig 61. Day. A, 2015, German Look at Design Exhibit, own photography. Fig 60. Von Rabenau. K, 2014, Senz Umbrellas, Online, Available: www.dezeen.com/2014/11/29/yoske-nishiumi-capsule-collection-windproof-umbrella-senz/ Fig 58. Montgomerie. O, 2015, Concept Lighting, own photography. Fig 62. Montgomerie. O, 2015, Innovative Magazine Stand, own photography. Fig 63. Montgomerie. O, 2015, H&M In-Store Creative Direction, own photography. Fig 64. Churchill S. 2015, Knitted Geometry at Premium Trade Show, own photography. Fig 66. Jeffery V. 2015, Sunglasses at Bikini Berlin, own photography. Fig 67. Day A. 2015, Bikini Berlin Retail Unit Structure, own photography. Fig 65. Montgomerie O. 2015, Bright Trade Show Exhibitor, own photography. Fig 69. Montgomerie O. 2015, Pendleton Woollen Mills at Seek Trade Show, own photography. Fig 70. McLean D. 2009, Woodcut Tree Age Rings Fine Art, Online, Available at: http://designspiration.net/image/288296283388/ Fig 71. Suryadi M. 2013, Bag & Journal, Online, Available at: http://www.flickr.com/photos/shugorei/8429668342/ Fig 68. Montgomerie O. 2015, Kancha Display at Seek Trade Show, own photography. Fig 72. Anon. 2010, Lumberjack Shirt, Online, Available at: http://theclassyissue.com/post/15165734451 Fig 73. Churchill S. 2015, Seek trade show, own photography Fig 74. Churchill S. 2015, Berlin Wall art, own photography Fig 75. Churchill S. 2015, Berlin Wall, own photography Fig 76. Churchill S. 2015, Adidas concept store floor, own photography Fig 77. Churchill S. 2015, Fur coats at Bikini Berlin, own photography Fig 78. Churchill S. 2015, Berlin wall advertising, own photography Fig 79. Churchill S. 2015, Seek trade show stand, own photography Fig 80. Churchill S. 2015, Berlin street art, own photography Fig 81. Churchill S. 2015, Bikini Berlin glass ceiling, own photography Fig 82. Churchill S. 2015, Bikini Berlin steel bar mesh interior, own photography
A/W 16 Berlin Trend Report By Sophie Churchill