Etch
the december issue
contents
Take a walk on the wild side Editorial Shoot exploring hidden identity. Pages 6 - 13
out with the new and in with the old Sophie Lake discusses the issue of ageism within the fashion industry.
Pages 14 - 17
street style The Coat Closet. Pages 18 - 23
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take a walk on the wild side
10
out
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t with the new and in with the old Do style and beauty have an expiry date? If not, then why does fashion appear to have an age limit? Sophie Lake uncovers the truth behind the ageist industry.
The industry has very obvious body ideals, which are presented to us through the media. Generally when we think of fashion models, we visualise tall, thin young women, because currently the majority of models fit this criteria. Fashion is creating this image that we are expected to conform to in order to be considered beautiful. A survey conducted by The Model Alliance earlier this year shows that 54.7% of models working in New York and Los Angeles started working in the industry before they were 16. Only a small 6.7% were over the age of 21 when they began their careers. High-end designer fashion is aimed more at the younger generations, but why? Why does the industry feel the need to focus on youth and leave the older consumers dissatisfied?
The fashion industry is able to target certain products towards different audiences as it holds the power to convince people that they should look a certain way. Young models are more prominent within fashion magazines and advertising, therefore creating limitations for the mature customers who feel that the majority of fashion is not aimed at people their age. Whilst interviewing Betty North, a 79-year-old fashion enthusiast from Yorkshire, she revealed, “Fashion for the older generation is limited, they tend to aim most clothes at teenagers and young people.” Perhaps this is creating pressure on society to stay youthful in order to be fashionable. Age Diversity in fashion could be very beneficial towards both the industry and the consumer. It could reverse some of the negative effects that fashion
is having on our society by reducing the pressure to look a certain way. An article in the Daily Mail shows how “one of the UK’s leading beauty retailers, has seen a 210% increase in over-60s woman who are now spending £255 a year on anti-aging creams” Women shouldn’t feel that it is necessary to make themselves look younger, they should be able to age gracefully. Ageing is a natural and beautiful process that one-day everyone will go through; therefore all, including those who work in fashion, should embrace it. Maybe if ageing models were featured more, then fewer women would feel the need to undergo plastic surgery and would feel happier within their own skin. Age should not define someone. Just because somebody is over the age of 50 it does not mean they no longer show an interest
"Fashion for the older generation i limited, they tend to aim most cloth teenagers and young people." in fashion or take pride in how they dress. Many older women, like Betty, have a strong interest in fashion and like to follow the current trends, however they feel that the main market is not aimed at them. After conducting a questionnaire for women aged 30-80 the results show that the majority believe this statement to be true. They believe that fashion is aimed at mid-teens to 30s and that there is not much to offer people of their age. Julie, aged 49, commented, “At the moment there’s a tendency for people over a certain age to dress very frumpy.” By featuring different models of different ages, customers would feel that their needs were accommodated for, instead of feeling pressurised to dress too young or too old. Also sharing her opinion, Yvonne, aged 60, stated, “Models are rarely fulfilling diversity. The industry would benefit from being more responsive to the needs of women.” Ronna Benjamin, Managing Editor at betterafter50.com, has created a list for the Huffington Post, of ’50 Things Women Over The Age Of 50 Hate About Fashion’ One of Ronna’s fifty includes, “We hate catalogues that have 26-year-old Skinny Minnies modelling clothes geared for the 50 and over woman.”
Another point from Ronna’s hate list was, “We hate that fashion is too focused on youthful body types and not celebrating our beautiful, aging, fit bodies.” This statement was backed-up by my collective questionnaire results that show how many of the subjects don’t buy fashion magazines because they feel that there are not any aimed specifically at older woman. Also, the women who do read fashion articles said that they would like to see older models being used more frequently as it would boost their confidence and make them have less insecurities about ageing. The question is; why doesn’t the fashion industry already fulfil the demand of the more mature consumer? They are missing out on a whole new range of clientele all because the industry is still prejudice towards age. Perhaps it is because they are scared to challenge the beauty ideals that already exist, fearful that their reputation will no longer be seen as ‘beautiful’ because they are doing something that isn’t usually accepted. During an interview for The New York Times, Miuccia Prada was confronted about why she hasn’t rebelled and used older models and she answered simply, “I’m not brave enough. I don’t have the courage.”
Although, in the past decade the fashion industry has shown an increase of media attention towards women in their forties and fifties. Middle-aged models have been used in some advertising campaigns for the likes of M&S and within clothing catalogues aimed at the older generations. However, in highend fashion, designers and publications are still ignoring people over a certain age. Alex B, a model in her 50s, shares her opinion with the Huffington Post; “As a consequence of this emphasis on youth, an area in which older women are still invisible is that of fashion and beauty. But now and again an older model will make an appearance.” Overall, although the fashion field is gradually opening up to more diverse ideals, it is rather apparent that a particular age barrier is still present within the industry. The demand for older models and over 50s fashion is becoming greater, therefore it is time for the fashion professionals to make a change, ditch the existing model stereotype and make the industry more diverse. It’s time for the industry to reach out to the older consumers, like Betty, and give them a chance to feel fashionable again.
is hes at
Betty, 79.
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STreet style The Coat Closet
As Cle
lear As Black and White
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Creative Colour Clash
letter from the editor
Hello Etch
At magazine we believe strongly in diversity and equality. We believe that everyone should have the right to express their own style and their love of fashion, no matter what their age, ethnicity, class, gender etc. We are a fashion magazine that is aimed at every individual as we believe
Etch
that fashion is enjoyed by everyone. focus directly on style - for us it’s all about the outfit!
Etch
This month’s has explored the North of England, discussing the topic of age within fashion and the ageist nature of the fashion industry. We have wandered the cold December streets scouting for the North’s most stylish and unique shoppers and what can I say? Well, the North certainly hasn’t disappointed! We got some great shots of friendly and fashionable Northerners with individual style which is just what
Etch was looking for.
Our Take A Walk on The Wild Side editorial shoot for which inspiraton came from a Saturday morning walk in Jesmond Dene, Newcastle, where I fell in love with the picturesque surroundings. I felt asthough I had taken one small step out of the city and fallen upon a whole new world set in the countryside. The shoot was aimed at hiding identity. As we focus on fashion, hidden identity is a big part of many of our shoots and the spotlight is on the clothing. The animal masks were the perfect way of doing this and adding a fun narrative element to the winter woodland scene. Thanks to everyone who helped make this issue of enjoyed it!
SOPhie Editor in Chief.
etch and I hope you
credits Take a walk on the wild side Location: Jesmond Dene, Newcastle. Models: Samuel Buck and Lilian Craw (Models wear Primark, River Island and Topshop/Topman) Photographer: Sophie Lake
out with the new and in with the old Location: Museum Gardens, York. Model: Betty North Photographer: Sophie Lake
street style Location: Newcastle City Centre. Models: Bill Petford, Josh Dickson, Ewan Acaca, B Judge, Jasmine Matthews, Paddy Killer, Adrew Bleukley, Fi Currie, Laura Cracknell and Anna Barley. Photographer: Sophie Lake