SOPHIE L DEWULF PRESENTS
TEXTILE INDUSTRY 4.0 : SUSTAINABLE INNOVATION January 2020
CONTENT Introduction
1 Past
Sustainability? Innovation? Textiles? Yesterday's "Business as Usual"
2 Present
Today's “DisruptiveTransformations"
3 Forecast
Tomorrow's "Green Deal"
4 Act Now
Challenges & Opportunities
sustainability ?
Meeting present needs without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their needs.
sustainability ?
3 pillars: economic, environmental, social (=profits, planet, people)
Application of a better solution to meet a new requirement or existing market need.
innovation?
3 pillars: creativity, technology, mindset change
innovation?
textiles ?
Creators of trade networks, facilitators of cross-cultural exchanges, of ideas, craft techniques, and people.
textiles ?
= culture industrial value sophisticated engineering hidden industry misinformation = misunderstanding
content overview YESTERDAY:
business as usual
Our Talk TODAY: Today
transformations
TOMORROW: green deal
Industrialization timeline Fast Fashion Uprise
Linear Economy Climate Change Awareness Consumer Sensibility
Circular Design Re-naissance Industry 4.0 Implementation
YESTERDAY
What did we do?
INDUSTRIALISATION TIMELINE
1700- 2020: evolution from industry 1.0 to 4.0 globalisation phenomenon
FAST FASHION's BUSINESS SYSTEM
more products at lower prices with quicker deliveries
Industralisation + Globalisation+ Fast Fashion = Huge ENVIRONMENTAL Impact
TODAY
TAKE-MAKE-CONSUME-DISPOSE OVER-PRODUCTION HUGE WASTE CLIMATE CHANGE
CONSUMER AWARENESS
Greenpeace's call outs Greta Thunberg's Friday's For Future
Consumer Rebellions
CONSUMER (RE)ACTION
FAKE NEWS / MISINFORMATION Ellen MacArthur Foundation: "20 % of global industrial water pollution is fashion industry fault" EcoTextile News states this is a 2012 vague assertion by a World Bank paper; the bank denied it was the origin of the fact. World Bank: "80% of garment workers worldwide are women", they rectify "80 % of garment workers in Bangladesh are women" - a conflicting World Bank report states it’s actually 54 %. Environmental Protection Agency: "An American throws away 80 pounds of clothing"; figure included textiles like carpets and mattresses and garment factory waste.
KEY
problems?
PROBLEM 1: CO2 EMISSIONS
Fashion industry: contributor of greenhouse gas emissions
TAKE
MAKE
CONSUME
DISPOSE
source: A New Textile Economy - report by Ellen MaCarthur Foundation & Circular Fibers Initiative
SOLUTION: DECARBONISATION
PROBLEM 2: WASTE
OVERPRODUCTION= fashion’s costliest and most environmentallydamaging secret
Overproduction is a result of seasonal inventory and miscalculated demand predictions "People look at sustainable fashion from the wrong perspective. Yes, where you produce and how you produce is important. But what we oversee is how much brands produce and how much consumers buy. To become sustainable, supply need to meet their demand." G Gvasalia /Vetements
Slow Down: Vetements recycling dump window installation /Harrods - February 2018 - to speak to people about the problem of overconsumption and overproduction
SOLUTION: CIRCULAR DESIGN
PROBLEM 3: POLLUTION
TOXICS: pesticides , dyes and finishing chemicals pollute water & soil
SOLUTION: BIO-BASED
BE(COME) SUSTAINABLE: SHIFT TO INNOVATIVE BUSINESS MODEL
INNOVATIVE BUSINESS MODEL = RESPONDING UN's SUSTAINABLE DEVELOPMENT GOALS
"THE FASHION INDUSTRY HAS INCREDIBLE POTENTIAL FOR ADVOCACY, EDUCATION, CREATIVITY. WE NEED TO BETTER TELL THE UN'S STORY ON SUSTAINABILITY. AND FASHION IS A GREAT PLATFORM. WE NEED TO ENGAGE THE CREATIVE INDUSTRY TO HELP US EDUCATE CUSTOMERS." Lucie Brigham, chief of office UN office for Partnerships. NY fashion week event february 2020
10 KEY THEMES FASHION INDUSTRY 2020
source: BOF - McKinsey / State of Fashion Report 2020
source: Fashion Revolution
TOMORROW (READ:NOW)
R-EA. Recycled Emporio Armani - January 2020 Milan Catwalks.
CHANGE / ADAPT to: "closed loop" culture "circular design" development "value" supply chain "responsible" fashion industry trackability for transparency
EXPLORE : Green Deal
=T R A N S F O R M I N G the
textile
industry
RESHAPE REINVENT RETHINK RECREATE REMAKE RECYCLE REDESIGN NOW! WRAD x SUSTAINABLE THINKING Exhibition Salvatore Ferragamo Museum Florence 2019
TRANSITION FROM LINEAR ....TO..... CIRCULAR FROM MERELYSUPPLY ........ TO ON-DEMAND FROM FOSSIL-BASED ...TO... BIO-BASED FROM WASTE ....TO..... RECYCABLE FROM QUANTITY ...TO.... QUALITY FROM PROFIT ....TO.. PURPOSE FROM SECRET ...TO.... TRANSPARENCY
recap.... Introduction
1 Past
Sustainability? Innovation? Textiles? Yesterday's "Business as Usual"
2 Present
Today's "Transformations"
3 Forecast
Tomorrow's "Green Deal" Industry
4 Act Now
Challenges & Opportunities
do we decarbonise? do we apply circular design? do we get sustainable materials? do we digitise our system? to offer transparency? do we change?
HOW?
TEXTILE 4.0 based on Green Deal
source: A New Textile Economy - report by Ellen MaCarthur Foundation & Circular Fibers Initiative
RETHINK MATERIALITY LANGUAGE
“We are not materialistic enough: We disrespect materials. We use them quickly and carelessly. If we were materialistic people, we would understand where materials come from and where they go to.� George Monbiot (journalist & environmentalist)
RECREATE MATERIAL SHAKE-UPS
FOOD-WASTE BASED FIBRE
Orange Fiber
by Adriana Santanocito & Enrica Arena fabrics made of citrus byproducts
FOOD-WASTE BASED FIBRE
VEGEA
by Gianpiero Tessitore material made of a wine-byproduct
ORGANIC-WASTE BASED FIBRE
NULLARBOR by Nanollose
turns liquid waste into rayon fibre for clothes with minimal environmental impact. derived from sustainably grown microbial cellulose that is high in yield and produced within 10 to 15 days.
CRUELTY-FREE FIBRES / MATERIALS
PEACE SILK or green silk or cruelty-free silk just as done against fur , Peta's actions against silk and down
Did Y ou know ? WORK IN PROGRESS : NEW EU LAWS
Circular Economy Action Plan for the Textile Value Chains by Euratex (part of Green Deal EU to reduce 40 % CO2 in 10 years, & neutralize EU's climat impact in 30 years.
REDEFINE TEXTILE FINISH
DYESTUFF textile-waste based RECYCROM by Officina+39 (Biella- Italy) A sustainable dyestuff range, patented, using recycled used clothing, fibrous material and textile scraps being transformed into colored powder.
WATER-LESS COLOR SYSTEMS SPINDYE Swedisch Textile Dyeing Innovator a polyester yarn and fabric coloring method of 1950 hues that reduces water use by 75%, and chemical use by 80%.
BIO-PIGMENTS wood-waste based NATURE COATINGS (2017 - LA USA) by Jane Palmer Wood waste (from sustainable FSC certified forests) is transformed into high performing black pigments. -manufacturing process: closed-loop + circular system -no CO2 emissions - easy to use with existing equipment and water based formulas -pigments do not fade in the sun and do not “bronze� or turn brown at high or low concentrations Pigments are suitable for screen printing, rotary printing, digital inkjet printing, coatings, dope dye, airbrush, resin casting etc.
MORE SUSTAINABLE SURFACE TREATMENTS Water-less ozone and plasma textile treatments
REVALUE CERTIFICATIONS (TO RE-INVENT THEM?)
DIGITISE TRANSPARENCY GARMENT AND TEXTILE LABELS WITH QR CODES BLOCKCHAIN TECHNOLOGY
RECREATE DESIGN PROCESS
AUTOMATED DESIGN
Artificial Intelligence product design product development virtual sampling showrooming selling
3D DIGITAL DESIGN By 2021, all of Tommy Hilfiger’s design processes — from sketching through sampling and showrooming — will be done with 3D design. The vast majority of its apparel will be all digital until it appears on the runway or is sold. all-digital process to decrease waste, save money and increase speed at which products can go to market. The brand will launch a capsule collection designed, developed and sold digitally, with products modelled on virtual avatars instead of models. (Customers will receive physical garments.) By 2022, 3D-produced apparel styles will appear in more than 2,000 points of sale worldwide alongside physical products in stores. Note for textile industry; First, the brand developed a digital fabric, pattern and color asset library, which provides digital raw materials that are used in the product creation process. This library — created with proprietary in-house technology and modifying some existing programs — will be used to design all 60,000 product options in 3D going forward.
CUSTOMIZATION
MADE-TO-ORDER CUSTOMIZATION ON DEMAND PRODUCTION
DIGITAL FABRICS
Did Kn You ow ? HUGO BOSS established a comprehensive digital library, available to all employees, providing information on materials and fibres, as well as dyeing, treatment and finishing processes that all enable recyclability and circularity. HUGO BOSS makes contribution to SDGs 4, 8, 12, 13, and 17
SDG 12: Responsible Production and Consumption example: all paddings used consists of at least 60% recycled materials. The company has defined a target of obtaining a minimum of 90% of all cotton used from sustainable production by 2025
RESTRATEGIZE BRANDS
WRAD - a Manifest Established in 2015 by Matteo Ward, Silvia Giovanardi and Victor Santiago. Silvia studied at IED and has a degree in Literature before being a fashion designer at Etro. Matteo, an Economics graduate, Victor a photographer – first met when working at Abercrombie & Fitch.
1) "GraphiTee": dyed with graphite recycled from hi-tech production with a natural, old dyeing technique used in Calabria, symbol of a circular economy (Red Dot Award) 2) “Anorak": windproof outerwear piece beeswax treated. 3) "Sweatshirt" in hemp instead of cotton. Hemp needs less water, less pesticides and is natural filter against pollution.
DIESEL - OTB Diesel is building on its ‘For Successful Living’ motto by launching this year a new sustainability strategy: ‘For Responsible Living.’ Diesel has formally committed to the FASHION PACT and to implementing a responsible business strategy that is respectful of both people and planet. With the help of Eco-Age, it has created a holistic strategy that stretches across the product and supply chain as well as creating a company-wide culture of sustainability. FOR RESPONSIBLE LIVING - 4 pillars Be the alternative Stand for the planet Celebrate individuality Promote integrity
Flavia La Rocca Modular Design A new attitude towards clothing. Modular and Sustainable Fashion. To create a never ending wardrobe. To reduce the waste of water, energy and raw materials, bearing in mind the importance of protecting our planet. Made in Italy. Clothes are composed of interchangeable modules that, through the use of hidden zippers, can be detached and matched again to create different combinations. Modules from different seasons can be mixed together to create a never ending wardrobe.
Green Carpet Fashion Awards 2019 Winner
Tiziano Guardini ECOuture An "evolutionary" way of doing Couture, mixing tailoring, innovation, respect and experimentation. Attentive to research in all its forms. Searching for highly sustainable and cruelty-free special materials, with workmanship, shape and content, where ethics and aesthetics represent the essential combination. Collaborations with key fabric suppliers as Mantero and Albini. Green Carpet Fashion Awards 2017 Winner
S/S 2020
F/W 18/19
F/W 19/20
KERING GOES CARBON-NEUTRAL
“We set a Science-Based Target to reduce all our greenhouse gas emissions related to operations and supply chain by 50 % by 2025.”
CHANEL MISSION1.5: Sustainable Exclusivity
After signing the Fashion Pact in 2019, Chanel has unveiled in March its first goals in terms of environmental protection: 4 projects till 2030: 1. Reduce carbon footprint across Chanel operations 50% by 2030) 2. Shifting to 100% renewable electricity, worldwide by 2025 3. Balance out residual carbon emissions 4. Finance climate change adaptation (supporting initiatives eg. Landscape Resilience Fund which help vulnerable communities impacted by fluctuating temperatures – and technological advancements developing raw material solutions.).
CASE STUDIES MADE IN ITALY
ALBINI-NEXT
STUDY CASE
1 sustainable dyeing 2 waste management 3 material traceability
ÂŤWe want to define the fibres of the future, we want to find the raw materials derived from recycled or bio-sources.Âť Stefano Albini, CEO Albini Group
Stefano Albini / Milano Unica February 2020
MANTERO
sustainability projects (launched sept 2019) 1) Resilk fibre (innovative silk yarn spun with Ecotec technology by Marchi&Fildi, 100% regenerated from Mantero's production scraps ) 2) designer colaboration with Tiziano Guardini 3) art colaboration with Stefano Ogliari Badessi.
TAKEAWAYS
3 keys Textile 4.0: Circular-Design Bio-Based Raw Material Sourcing Digitalized Manufacturing
4 mindset changes: Rethink Creativity Thrive Innovation Accelerate Responsibility Share Culture
Thank You for Exploring, Sophie LD
SOURCES
Ellen MaCarthur Foundation Fashion Revolution McKinsey & Company Deloitte United Nations World Economic Forum Fashion Revolution Centro Studi di Confindustria Moda European Technology Platform for the Future of Textiles and Clothing Eco-Age Fashion for Good Cradle-to-Cradle C&A Foundation Kering Group Sustainable Apparel Coalition Bio Market
