TREND DOCUMENT A/W 15/16
CONTENTS IN CODE The Exception The Next Dimension Quiet Identity THE INDUSTRIALIST Pendulant Props The Dark Room The Machinery Man THE ART OF ACTION The Production Line Making a Mark Injection of Colour APPENDIX References Inspiration
INCODE
>> Creative Direction
Glitches in security systems, underhand hacking and exposal of personal information have been a talking point in recent times. With social sites changing their privacy policies, claiming ownership of uploaded photos to sell to third parties, alongside malfunctions in privacy systems leaking confidential information – social media is invading our identity. The digital age ensures that we have a strong online presence, 24 hours of the day. With Geo-tagging technology modern devices can guarantee that our location is documented and public observation is at its height. As the watch intensifies, the consumer takes to underground subculture trends to escape urban surveillance. Deriving from 70’s Punk Culture, where there was a backlash to the controlled national systems through individual expression and a ‘so what, who cares’ attitude. The In Code trends embrace a subtly subversive wear and post-punk attitudes with covert detailing. Dark thrown together layers, with bursts of high contrast hues and patterns unify sportswear and tailoring, offering an urban edge.
Fig 3. Padlock Chain
Fig. 2 The Sex Pistols
This trend stems from the 70’s punk movement, where there was a backlash to the controlled national systems through individual expression and a ‘so what, who cares’ attitude.
Fig 1. American Punk Boys
Bands such as the Sex Pistols were ringleaders in rebellion, singing of national anarchy. The punk culture was concerned with individual freedom and non-conformity. In reflection to the movement, which rejected any notions of the mainstream, this is being reciprocated today with a modern twist whereby non-conforming comes in a quieter way. The In Code trends embrace a subtly subversive wear and post-punk attitudes with covert detailing.
THE EXCEPTION Fig 4. Leia Display System
>> Visual Merchandising
It is undeniable that technological advancements and digital innovations are leading the industry into the experiential retail future. Advanced technology, such as 3D printing, wearable devices and “smart” materials are being invented at an exceptional speed. “The maker movement” is influential in the way it unites the traditional hands on DIY approach with the digital era. This trend encourages invention and prototyping as a way to come up with innovative ways of doing things. It is about seeking out innovation and a constant need for improvement, via the knowledge and technology reachable today.
Fig 5. Star Wars Hologram
In the light of the ‘maker movement’, individuals become the exception to society with self initiated innovation, blurring the lines between DIY and technology platforms.
Fig 6 Bani Haykal
Tradeshows demonstrate brand information through smart screens incorporated into mannequins.
Fig 7. IPad Premium Tradeshow Berlin - Sarah Williams Photography
Singaporean musician Bani Haykal uses unexpected objects such as bicycles, pipes and a typewriter and deconstructs traditional instruments to create innovative electronic sounds.
The polish brand Leia has takes inspiration 7th episode of star wars, creating a display system to echo the holographic telephone seen throughout the Star Wars franchise.
THE NEXT DIMENSION >> Print & Graphic
Pringle of Scotland delved into 3D printing techniques at London Fashion Week. Tom Van Der Bought questions mainstream structures. Henrik Vibskov pioneers 3D fabric giving an origami effect. Fig 10. & Fig 11 Tom Van Der Borght - A Naked Safari
Fig 8 & Fig 9. Henrik Vibskov
As the digital era evolves, print and graphics are being adapted with the use of technologic advancements. Laser cut textures are being taken to the next level, bringing print to life to give a dimensional effect. Print is moving on from a flat 2D surface to the next dimension.
CMAOX creates barcode designs through laser cutting leather. Shamees Aden’s 3D printed wearable texture pushes the boundaries of print, with self repairing protocells.
Fig 12. Eton Tie
QUIET IDENTITY
Fig 15. Photograph at Bread & Butter - A Fish Called Fred - Sarah Williams Photography
Fig 14. Eton Shirt Pattern
Fig 13. Eton Tailoring
>> Menswear
A Fish Named Fred uses performance textiles which expose hidden patterns after washes. Eton’s sharp tailoring has vibrant hues hidden beneath the cuffs and collars.
The ostentatious logo is being traded in for discreet detailing, with muted exteriors and quiet design elements. With hidden features, the wearer reveals hints of personality with subtle injections of colour and pattern.
Fig. 16 The Wapping Project - Sophie Quain Photography
THE INDUSTRALIST >> Creative Direction
This trend explores the way in which industrial spaces are evolving. The future of design is developing and guiding the way into a more visually pleasing and crafted aesthetic. The cold industrial space is being enlightened with artists experimenting with more fluid forms and designs of functional objects and garments. London’s Serpentine Gallery, designed Zaha Hadid Architects is inspiration for a fluid structure. The Wapping Project, ‘An idea consistently in transition’, celebrates open production spaces and worn manufacturing machinery.
Fig.18. Industrial Modernization
Fig 17 LNCC - Sophie Quain Photography
Up and coming Dalston is home LNCC, a concept store which embraces a modern twist on industrially inspired stone rooms.
Fig. 19 Serpetine Gallery - Sophie Quain Photography.
Fig 20. Doris Salcedo - Chairs Fig 21. Fiona Lim Tung & Kristen Lim Tung - Paper Installation Fig 22. David DiMichele - Installations Fig 23. Senga Nengudi - MoMa - Sophie Quain Photography.
PENDULANT PROPS >> Visual Merchandising
Visual merchandising takes a casual step back with dismissal of the mannequin. Whilst structured hangers are disregarded, loosely suspended garments and accessories give a purposely laid back visual effect. Shoes hang freely above the floor and lights drape low from the ceiling giving a modern artistic aesthetic in any space. Aesthetic exceeds function with emphasis on curved and coiled intricate detailing.
Fig 24. Floral Lights - Bread & Butter - Charlotte Williams Photography
Sisters Fiona and Kristen Lim Tung created a hand-crafted installation tailored specifically to be hung Room 211on the Come Up To My Room project. Fluidity can be found in David Di Michele’s installations where open spaces are transformed with colossal hanging structures. Senga Nengudi’s exhibition at New York’s MoMa contrasted structured enclosed spaces with soft nylon sculptures.
Fig 25. Capsule Tradeshow - Sophie Quain Photography.
THE DARK ROOM
Print and graphics take on a darker style with a night sky palette. Touching on gothic aesthetics, the monochrome trend displays a kaleidoscope of black and white. With busy graphics, made up of screen printed photographs and organised, geometric patterns, the print compensates for the limited spectrum.
>> Print & Graphic
Fig 26. Monochrome Shoes - Sarah Williams Photography Fig 27, 28, 29. Landscape Photography Ansel Adams Mary Katrantzou’s collections have taken inspiration from black and white photographs of wide open expanses.
Fig 30. Mary Katrantzou - Fall 2013
THE MACHINERY MAN >> Menswear
The pragmatic uniform of the working man is replicated with wellgroomed features. Smart cashmere coats and silken utilitarian shirts give a handsome edge to the realistic industrial man.
Lou Daltons ‘Working Man Chic’ opened London Fashion Week Collections: Men. The collection reflected a stylish approach to functional working man wear.
Fig 31. Lou Dalton
THE ART OF ACTION >> Creative Direction
Inspired by the 1940’s abstract expressionism, this trend welcomes the hands-on artistic approach back to fashion. With the imagination acting as inspiration, The Art of Action liberates the creative mind and encourages involvement across the scale of artistic gestures, to create statement displays, designed to make the viewer feel rather than just see.
Fig 33. The Colour Run
Franz Kline is renowned for painting with a sentimental outcome, leaving his viewer with a deeper comprehension of the piece, than what first meets the eye. His works are thought to imitate himself and express his personal thoughts on the canvas. The Colour Run (UK) is a celebration of artistic freedom and expressionism, whereby the participants are encouraged to release their creative energy through running and explosions of vibrant powdered paint.
Fig 32. Franz Kline
Fig 34. Ecco - Bread & Butter 2014 - Sophie Quain Photography
Fig 35, 36 & 37. Eton Behind the Scenes
THE PRODUCTION LINE >> Visual Merchandising
Fig 38. Heinz Bauer - Premium Tradeshow - Sarah Williams Photography
ECCO held a strong pull factor for the consumer at Bread and Butter Berlin 2014, with their live demonstration of elite craftsmanship, taking the viewer through the design process of an iPhone authentic leather case.
Inventive expression is carried through to visual merchandising whereby walls are lined with proud displays of production information. Brands begin to reveal the design process of their collections with detailed illustration, photographic evidence and diary description of how their key pieces came to be, from idea to design, manufacture to the finished product.
Eton, a brand proud of their heritage, offered in-depth detailing into their design to manufacture method on their A/W 15/16 collection.
MARK MAKING
Fig 39. & 40 Jackson Pollock
>> Print & Graphic
Previous expressionist movements are making their way back into graphic design with energetic mark making methods. The canvases encapsulate a lively movement, creating illustrious prints, leaving the viewer with the freedom to interpret the mood for themselves.
Fig 41. Willem de Kooning
Fig 42. Bose Krishnamachari
Jackson Pollock, a key player in the abstract expressionist colour incorporation and definition in stokes. movement, is known for his brisk and animated large scale paintings. Adopting methods of ‘drip painting’, including swinging Bose Krishnamachari offers a modern take on mark making a punctured bucket of paint, created his prominent pieces. painting with a dimensional aesthetic. Another inspirational painter from the movement is Willem De Kooning. With a similar energy, he expresses himself with more
>> Menswear
Fig 46. Burberry Prorsum S/S2014
Fig 43 & 44. Christopher Shannon
INJECTION OF COLOUR
Low-key exteriors take the backstage to vibrant hues at the forefront of the viewer’s attention. Although placed as accent colours, the highlighted detailing stands apart as a key feature of the garment. Seen in tailoring, the colour expression gives hints of attitude and style against the mundane formalwear.
Fig 45. Seek Tradeshow - Berlin. Sarah Williams Photography.
Christine Wisneiski, a packaging designer, shows the aesthetic transition between product design and fashion, with small injections of colour standing out against the monochrome design. Christopher Shannon and Burberry Prorsum S/S14 have both urbanised office wear with vibrant pops of colour on the runway. Fig 47. Christine Wisnieski Tavern Vinegar Co.
Fig 48. Christine Wisnieski Tavern Vinegar Co. Cards. All background textures courtesy of Sophie Quain
Fig 1: Girl, G. n.d. American punk boy. [image online] Available at: http://gagetgirl.hubpages.com/hub/ What-Did-Punks-Wear-in-The-80s [Accessed: 4 Mar 2014]. Fig 2: Word Press. 2012. The Sex Pistols. [image online] Available at: http://cbswcbsfm.files.wordpress. com/2012/08/the-sex-pistols.jpg [Accessed: 1 Mar 2014]. Fig 3: PigleT. 2013. Padlock chain. [image online] Available at: http://pig.sty.nu/Pictures/argyll-eveningwalk/half_argyll_evening_padlock_chain-bw.jpg [Accessed: 3 Mar 2014]. Fig 4: Leia Display system. 2013. Leia display system. [image online] Available at: https://i1.ytimg.com/ vi/9ogZocG4i_8/hqdefault.jpg [Accessed: 3 Mar 2014]. Fig 5: Star wars hologram. 2013. [image online] Available at: http://www.cs.nuim.ie/three-dimensionalhologram-image-processing [Accessed: 3 Mar 2014]. Fig 6: Tumblr. 2013. Bani Haykal. [image online] Available at: http://31.media.tumblr.com/ a155fffb2c772e5db8ee5b9194ff42ea/tumblr_mua9ovUcfk1sqt0uvo2_1280.jpg [Accessed: 25 Feb 2014]. Fig 7: Photographer: Sarah Williams. 2014. Ipad Premium Tradeshow Berlin. Photographed at: Premium Berlin. Fig 8: nordicstylemag. 2013. Henrik Vibskov. [image online] Available at: http://www.nordicstylemag.com/ wp-content/uploads/2013/08/r0q1889.jpg [Accessed: 28th Feb 2014]. Fig 9: blogspot. 2014. Henrik Vibskov. [image online] Available at: http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JktqdItAAGE/ Utpj5ZiHTtI/AAAAAAAAFdU/7BDbKpTcdVQ/s1600/HENRIK+VIBSKOV+FW14+21.jpg [Accessed: 3 Mar 2014]. Fig 10: tomvanderborght. 2014. Tom Van Der Borght. [image online] Available at: http:// tomvanderborght.com/wp/ [Accessed: 1 Mar 2014]. Fig 11: tomvanderborght. 2014. Tom Van Der Borght. [image online] Available at: http:// tomvanderborght.com/wp/ [Accessed: 28 Feb 2014]. Fig 12: Eton. 2014. Eton [official image] Available from: Eton USB [Accessed: 20 Jan 2014]. Fig 13: Eton. 2014. Eton tailoring [official image] Available from: Eton USB [Accessed: 20 Jan 2014]. Fig 14: Eton. 2014. Eton shirt pattern [official image] Available from: Eton USB [Accessed: 20 Jan 2014]. Fig 15: Photographer: Sarah Williams. 2014. A Fish Called Fred. Photographed at: Bread and Butter. Fig 16: Photographer: Sophie Quain. 2013. The Wapping Project. Photographed at: The Wapping Project London Fig 17: Photographer: Sophie Quain. 2013. LNCC. Photographed at: LNCC London Fig 18: nycedc. n.d. Industrial Modernization. [image online] Available at: http://www.nycedc.com/ transition/industrial-modernization [Accessed: 2 Mar 2014]. Fig 19: Photographer: Sophie Quain. 2013. Serpentine. Photographed at: Serpentine London. Fig 20: mostbeautifulpages. n.d. Doris Salcedo: Chairs. [image online] Available at: http://www. mostbeautifulpages.com/2012/12/doris-salcedo-1550-chairs-stacked.html [Accessed: 28 Feb 2014]. Fig 21: ilovecrow. n.d. Fiona Lim Tung and Kristen Lim Tung. [image online] Available at: http://www. ilovecrow.com/Projects_art/2968_Dundas/dun8.html [Accessed: 28 Feb 2014]. Fig 22: blogspot. 2012. David Dimichele Installations. [image online] Available at: http://teodora-ciocoiu. blogspot.co.uk/2012/10/david-di-michele-installations.html [Accessed: 28 Feb 2014]. Fig 23: Photographer: Sophie Quain. 2013. Senga Nengudi MoMa. Photographed at MoMa New York. Fig 24: Photographer: Charlotte Williams. 2014. Floral lights. Photographed at Bread and Butter Berlin. Fig 25: Photographer: Sophie Quain. 2014. Capsule Tradeshow. Photographed at Capsule Berlin. Fig 26: Photographer: Sarah Williams. 2014. Monochrome shoes. Photographed at Premium Berlin. Fig 27: creativephotograph. n.d. Landscape Photography Ansel Adams. [image online] Available at:
Fig 33: Wordpress. 2012. The colour run. [image online] Available at: http://runnerenergy. wordpress.com/2012/04/01/the-color-run/ [Accessed: 25 Feb 2014]. Fig 34: Photographer: Sophie Quain. 2014. Ecco. Photographed at Bread and Butter Berlin. Fig 35: Eton. 2014. Eton behind the scenes [official image] Available from: Eton USB [Accessed: 20 Jan 2014]. Fig 36: Eton. 2014. Eton behind the scenes [official image] Available from: Eton USB [Accessed: 20 Jan 2014]. Fig 37: Eton. 2014. Eton behind the scenes [official image] Available from: Eton USB [Accessed: 20 Jan 2014]. Fig 38: Photographer: Sarah Williams. 2014. Heinz Bauer Premium. Photographed at: Premium Berlin. Fig 39: vikingphoto. 2013. Jackson Pollack. [image online] Available at: http://vikingphoto. org/?p=780 [Accessed: 27 Feb 2014]. Fig 40: vikingphoto. 2013. Jackson Pollack. [image online] Available at: http://vikingphoto. org/?p=780 [Accessed: 28 Feb 2014]. Fig 41: Wordpress. 2013. WILLEM DE KOONING. [image online] Available at: http://markovart. wordpress.com/2013/05/01/wemen-of-willem-de-kooning/ [Accessed: 2 Mar 2014]. Fig 42: fashionavecpassion. 2013. Bose Krishnamachari. [image online] Available at: http://www.fashionavecpassion.com/art-remba-rent-art/stretched-bodies-24-by-bosekrishnamachari-price-on-demand-monthly-fee-220/ [Accessed: 3 Mar 2014]. Fig 43: gillannie. 2014. CHRISTOPHER SHANNON. [image online] Available at: http://gillannie. com/2012/09/ [Accessed: 5 Mar 2014]. Fig 44: selectism. 2013. CHRISTOPHER SHANNON. [image online] Available at: http://www. selectism.com/2013/02/20/christopher-shannon-spring-summer-2013-lookbook/ [Accessed: 5 Mar 2014]. Fig 45: Photographer: Sarah Williams. 2014. Seek Tradeshow. Photographed at Seek Berlin. Fig 46: thefashionisto. 2013. Burberry Prorsum Spring/Summer 2014. [image online] Available at: http://www.thefashionisto.com/burberry-prorsum-springsummer-2014-londoncollections-men/ [Accessed: 1 Mar 2014]. Fig 47: static.squarespace. n.d. Christine Wisnieski tavern vinegar co.. [image online] Available at: https://static.squarespace.com/ Fig 48: studio-404. 2013. Christine Wisnieski Cards. [image online] Available at: http://studio-404. com/tag/typography/page/14 [Accessed: 28 Feb 2014]
INSPIRATION This Trend Document was heavily inspired aesthetically by established Trend Forecasting documents such as: Nelly Rodi, Trend Union and The Future Laboratory. WGSN also acted as a source of inspiration in regards to up and coming trends and the way the information is presented. Our primary research was conducted in London and in Berlin Fashion Week Tradeshows.
http://www.creativephotography.org/node/2476 [Accessed: 1 Mar 2014]. Fig 28: creativephotograph. n.d. Landscape Photography Ansel Adams. [image online] Available This document sits in line with the visual aesthetic of the mentioned documents. at: http://www.creativephotography.org/node/2476 [Accessed: 1 Mar 2014]. With this in mind, this document is aimed to be used by Stylists, Art Directors Fig 29: creativephotograph. n.d. Landscape Photography Ansel Adams. [image online] Available and Visual Merchandisers. at: http://www.creativephotography.org/node/2476 [Accessed: 2 Mar 2014]. Fig 30: fashionbombdaily. 2013. Mary Katrantzou Fall 2013. [image online] Available at: http:// fashionbombdaily.com/2013/02/18/show-review-mary-katrantzou-fall-2013/ [Accessed: 25 Feb 2014]. Fig 31: clientmagazine. 2014. Lou Dalton. [image online] Available at: http://www. clientmagazine.co.uk/video-lou-dalton-london-collections-men-aw14/ [Accessed: 26 Feb 2014]. Fig 32: slowartday. 2013. Franz Kline. [image online] Available at: http://www.slowartday.com/ turin-point/ [Accessed: 2 Mar 2014].
FASH20032 Sophie Quain Charlotte Williams Sarah Williams