3 . F O L K L O R I C T R I P

Folkloric costumes offer endless inspiration as designers celebrate (rather than appropriate) worldwide culture Burkindy and Marusya Tamboura of Jahnkoy believe that “craft is an ultimate tool towards the healing of mankind”; that idea is captured in desirable pieces that draw from vintage and cultural heritage The 19th Century Viennese court inspired Carolina Herrera’s Wes Gordon's richly embroidered border

Terry Singh used an Italian red-and-black jacquard for a precisely cut cropped jacket Monica Paolini and Sean Monahanof Sea explored Bavarian themes and Americana for boldly patterned statement pieces Ulla Johnson, who has long incorporated global handicrafts into her aesthetic, showed a wonderfully dimensional crochet sweater over a trapunto-appliquéd skirt

Elevated cargo looks are having a moment Hillary Taymour of Collina Strada used a blurred plaid for slouchy cargos that got even more dimension from a box-pleated peplum detail Rag & Bone polished the look by topping cargos with a tailored blazer

Cross-Eyed Moose offered outdoorsy ensembles that stayed true to cargo ’ s utilitarian roots, while Preston Heron used a multi-pocket approach for a distressed leather set Marc Jacobs paid homage to the recently departed Vivienne Westwood with romantic Old Mastersinspired silhouettes, here made modern in a crystal-studded olive drab detailed with oversized cargo pockets

5 . B E L L E B O U D O I R

Lingerie looks come out from under with opulent fabric and plenty of lace Phillip Lim showed Chantilly-trimmed pajama pants topped with a draped tunic Dion Lee showed off his knack for revealing and concealing with a paneled shocking pink slip-dress, detailed with a triangular cutout

Rodarte showed a sweep of emerald green for a lace-inset maxi dress, and Anna Sui used a pale matcha tone for a lustrous cami and slip set Piotrek Panszczyk of Area was inspired by the beauty of fruits, as in a melon-pink underwire bra matched to a curvilinear miniskirt, both studded with faceted crystals

6 . S I L V E R L I N I N G

LSilvery finishes reign as the metal of choice LaQuan Smith, maintaining his commitment to high glamour, cut a crinkled metallic leather into a bra-plus-column-skirt ensemble Anna Sui used a slightly greenish silver for her 60s-inspired mini-trench, worn over sparkly tights and silver cowboy boots

Bibhu Mohapatra’s sterling tweed pantsuit was shown with a pearly organza bow blouse, perfect for special occasion dressing Classic shearling outerwear at Coach got a fresh edge when awash in silver A standout of the season so far was Proenza Schouler’scrinkled silverplated sheath that was styled over a raw-edged underskirt, creating a look that managed to be opulent and subtle at once

The newest denim looks have a quirky, individualistic charm from artisanal treatments and appealing new shapes Derek Lam used the American Art and Crafts movement as a starting point for his Derek Lam 10 Crosby line, resulting in denim pieces that were both practical and slightly novel, such as a shearling-trimmed vest over cropped jeans

Marc Jacobs used a luxe mix of denim and velvet for a patchwork coat, and Sally Lapointe showed the must-have wide-leg silhouette ornamented with shredded rips and topped with a fur-trimmed maxicoat Heron Preston was inspired by the cool kids on the streets of New York for his bleached denim corset top over mended 5-pocket jeans Rag & Bone founder Marcus Wainwright was also inspired by real New Yorkers for his chore jacket and pencil skirt ensemble; the shapes are simple, but the mottled bleach treatment makes it special

Like jeans and trench coats, motorcycle jackets can be infinitely reinvented while retaining their iconic quality For next fall, Jonathan Simkhai played with both deconstruction and toughness, resulting in a biker jacket split into two to become a cropped jacket and matching miniskirt

Rag & Bone went lean and mean, while Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez of Proenza Schouler added contrast and luxury to their version with a flurry of snow-white fur trim Omar Salam of Sukeina offered an elegantly tailored pantsuit embellished with gold zips for a look that was more boardroom than biker

9 . T O T H E M A X

The maxi-coat, that 1970s favorite, is back with a vengeance for next fall Michael Kors showed a covetable camel version, matched to a slim poor-boy sweater, hot pants, and kneehigh boots Christian Cowan’s muse this season was Judy Garland; he did the maxi-over-mini proportion as well, but his coat and short-shorts were jazzed-up with jet beads and layered over a wide-collared white maxi shirt

Joseph Altuzarra went long-over-long with a spectacularly dyed topper over a matching ankle-skimming silk column Proenza Schouler’s double-breasted version was cut from nubby wool in a toasty brown and ensembled with a matching sweater and chocolate leather pants Young-Eun Lee of FromWhere did a soft ivory coat worn over a sweet pajama pant-andbralette set (bras are an ongoing must-have) And Catherine Holstein of Khaite offered a luxe sweep of fur in an intense shade of bottle green