Paradise Found

The Escalante offers the perfect escape.

Written by Jeffrey Cohen

In these tedious and seemingly never-ending days of the pandemic, it has become maddeningly predictable that however modest one’s expectations about almost anything may be, they are seldom met, let alone surpassed. Goods, services, schedules: all are at the mercy of what has become the universal excuse for declining standards. Consequently, it is all the more gratifying when an experience over-delivers beyond one’s wildest dreams, becoming a cause for celebration and providing fond memories to last a lifetime.

Recently my wife and I were fortunate to experience an otherworldly visit to The Escalante in Naples, Florida that exceeded our expectations in every way imaginable. Tucked away in its own little oasis close to the intersection of Fifth Avenue and Third Street South, steps from the Gulf of Mexico and a few blocks from the heart of historic Naples, this enclave of old-world charm might just as well exist in the Mediterranean countryside as at the center of a bustling resort town, such is the sense of seclusion and bucolic calm.

Named after a Spanish explorer, Escalante Fontaneda, the property has been a labor of love for owner (and former Indianapolis resident) Mary Brandt – in fact, it was through Indianapolis friends that we first heard about The Escalante. “I discovered The Escalante in the fall of 2003, and acquired it with a partner the following year,” Mary explained over coffee one morning during our stay. “Eight years ago, I bought out my partner.” Over the ensuing years, each room has been redesigned to be unique, mechanicals have been replaced, and the lush tropical gardens returned to their natural beauty. Every summer, Mary focuses on one major improvement, constantly updating and enhancing the already magnificent facilities. The consummate host, Brandt is seemingly on site every minute of the day, displaying attention to even the minutest detail, whether it’s checking on floral displays or overseeing lunch service on the beach.

Having flown directly from Indianapolis to Fort Myers followed by a 45-minute car ride, we checked in at the small reception area overlooking the pool, where we were greeted like old friends with flutes of bubbly, then were escorted across the courtyard to our accommodations, the Orchid bungalow (all 11 of The Escalante bungalows are named; it was apropos that the orchid is my wife’s favorite flower). Each spacious suite features a separate sitting and dining area, as well as a private patio overlooking the pool and surrounding gardens. Following a quick change of clothes and a splash of cool water to wash away the dust of the journey, we enjoyed a lunch of spicy fish tacos for me and a burger with truffle fries for my wife poolside, courtesy of the hotel’s outstanding restaurant, Veranda E.

Rooms are individually decorated to feel unique.

The only fine dining restaurant in Naples with its own on-premise sustainable organic garden, Veranda E offers breakfast, lunch and dinner, as well as afternoon tea and a social hour under a pergola from 4 to 5:30 p.m. With an eclectic menu featuring an elevated global cuisine, diners can expect the very finest of ingredients from fresh seafood to foie gras and caviar, and all points in between. A subtle Pacific Rim influence pervades a number of dishes, lending lift and piquancy to the ingredients.

VE signature snapper

Cauliflower vegan steak

It was at Veranda E that my wife and I enjoyed all our meals during our stay. On the first night, Mary surprised us with dinner on the beach, where we were served a bone-in ribeye for two, deftly portioned tableside by our expert server, Marco Garcia, a constant presence at the hotel whom we would get to see frequently over the course of the following days. “Marco has been with me since the opening of Veranda E. He has the gift of hospitality,” Mary told me later. And she was right; he made sure we didn’t want for anything. When the setting sun became dazzlingly bright that first evening, the seasoned veteran produced a second umbrella to keep us shaded and cool. As readers of these pages will know, watching the sunset over the gulf is something of sport in Naples, and we were sure to do it every evening, along with hundreds of others, locals and visitors alike. Once darkness had set in, we retired to Veranda E for a nightcap - old fashioned for my wife, Manhattan for me - then headed to our bungalow for a relatively early night.

Marco Garcia presents a tray of pineapple coladas.

Thus, the tone was set for the remainder of our stay: granola, yogurt and fresh juice for breakfast on the patio, followed by a jog through the old town to peruse the shops and galleries, then a cup of locally roasted coffee on the way back. The remainder of the second morning was spent between the hot tub, pool and beach, with suitable refreshments in between stints. Dinner that night was taken poolside, where Marco suggested a whole fried snapper, which he expertly fileted at the table. Fresh and perfectly flaky, this was simply some of the best fish I have ever eaten, especially when accompanied by a cold Provençal rosé. To end this wonderful dinner, he dazzled us with tableside bananas Foster. At some point during the evening, we discovered that the couple at the table next to ours also hailed from Indianapolis, so it was with them that we shared an after-dinner drink before retiring once again after a sublimely restful day of doing nothing much in particular.

Readers expecting a list of strenuous outdoor activities, 18 holes of golf or parasailing will be sorely disappointed by my confession that this was probably the laziest vacation I have ever spent anywhere. Now adults-only, The Escalante provided a perfect oasis of stasis; never has doing absolutely nothing beyond eating, drinking and lounging come so naturally.

At The Escalante, you feel as though you are among friends. On our third and final night, Mary even picked us up in a golf cart and drove us to her country club down the street from the hotel, where we enjoyed cocktails with some of her friends, watched the sunset and ran into several Indianapolis residents we knew. There is a strong connection between Indianapolis and Naples; chances are that if you visit this wonderful hotel you will see some familiar faces on the rare occasion that you can tear yourself away from The Escalante’s all-embracing charm.

For more information, visit hotelescalante.com