5 minute read
AMBROSIA
The Next Generation
Written by Neil Charles / Photographed by Andrew Kung
Since opening Ambrosia in 1979, the irrepressible Gino Pizzi has been a key figure in this city’s constantly evolving dining scene. For a while in the ’90s, Gino had a penchant for opening new restaurants, operating them for a few years, then selling them. The names roll off the tongue like a who’s who of upscale Italian dining, Indianapolis-style: Mangia, Mezza Luna, Sangiovese and my favorite of all, Bacco, which took over the space once occupied by another local legend, Rudy and Rosa’s. Gino didn’t exactly plan things this way, but he once confided: “I love opening restaurants. It was never my intent to sell them, but unless I could find management to run it as I liked to run it, then it ceased to be a Pizzi restaurant.” You could always tell you were in a Pizzi establishment from the quality of the food to the smart efficiency of the service and the unfussy, yet strong, sense of professionalism.
Not only has Gino had great success in the world of fine dining, but he has also been able to pass the baton to the next generation, a rarity in the restaurant business. After more than 30 years in the heart of Broad Ripple, Ambrosia moved a few years ago to a new location at College Avenue and Kessler Boulevard. In 2020, Gino’s daughter Anna, a music executive at Warner Brothers, and her husband Daniel (Dan) Cage, bought the business and are now forging their own careers as restaurateurs. Recently, we sat down with Dan to chat about their new roles.
Pizzi family photos are focal points throughout the restaurant.
Tricolore Insalate
Having played professional basketball in Europe for three years and coached at Vanderbilt University for eight, Dan does not seem easily intimidated. Coming into the restaurant business from the unrelated world of professional sports may seem like a stretch, but he sees similarities. “Recruiting the best people is key, as is integrity, energy and attitude. For us, every night is game night. Gino held my hand for the first six months and (manager) Mike (Cook) has been a huge part of our success so far.”
Arancini
For generations, Gino built a thriving business on the pillars of good food, great wine and personal relationships, and this is not lost on Dan. “Gino has many talents, but two that I am always blown away by are his creative vision and his ability to connect with his guests,” he continues. Building long-term, generational friendships with customers and their children has been central to Ambrosia’s success. “Countless customers would walk through Ambrosia’s doors and Gino would immediately lean over to me and whisper at which table that guest always liked to sit, what their favorite wine was, what they did for a living, and share a detail or two about their family.” On the wall in the foyer, a photograph of Gino’s late mother, Anna, greets guests as they enter.
Barbabietola features roasted beets and goat cheese.
Lasagne is a perennial favorite.
With kitchen staff who have cooked for over 20 years and server Dave Butts, who has worked front of house for just as long, veteran customers have high expectations that Dan and Anna will keep the old ship on an even keel. “I see myself as the caretaker of the business,” continues Cage. “Anna is the ultimate cheerleader, and I want to protect her legacy.”
On a recent visit, the irrepressible Butts provided his uniquely elevated, yet effusive service, regaling us with tales of three generations of Pizzis. Seated outside with Dan during a rainstorm under cover of the blissfully dry patio, we enjoyed a dozen delightfully sweet oysters from the east coast, followed by that night’s special, nut-crusted whitefish, amply demonstrating the levels to which this kitchen can rise. Ambrosia’s menu is still packed with old-school Italian favorites, such as the Ravioli della Mama and spaghetti bolognese. The signature dessert, a rich, creamy and practically definitive tiramisu, is from a recipe perfected by Gino’s late father, Guisepe.
Having opened The Commodore, an “underground” speakeasy in Fountain Square that has quickly become a hit with the young and hip, Dan and Anna have just introduced a new restaurant just north of downtown. Named Bocca, it offers Italian comfort food with a modern twist. Dan says it’s a bit more chef-driven than Ambrosia, appealing to a younger, more urban clientele; former Delicia and La Mulita executive chef Ricky Martinez helms the kitchen.
Daniel Cage, Anna Pizzi Cage, Gino Pizzi
With 30 years under its belt, Ambrosia is now welcoming another generation of diners. History and continuity are close to the family’s heart: the walls of the restaurant are adorned with spectacular enlargements of Pizzi family photos taken in Italy back in the ’50s and ’60s. Like stills from some glorious early Fellini movie, they tell of days long past whose resonance is still felt. “Family business is very important,” says Gino. “What I really love is that the next generation is now coming in. There would not be an Ambrosia today if it weren’t for the family.”
Luckily for us, there still is a family: one thoroughly vested in maintaining the traditional Pizzi way of doing things and upholding the standards we have all grown accustomed to. Here’s to the next thirty years.
For more information, visit ambrosiaindy.com
