Matterhorn
A SLICE OF SWISS Written by Michael John
When the SwissAir flight pulled away from the jet bridge at exactly its scheduled departure time, it was a subtle yet significant indication of the experience that would unfold over the next seven days in Switzerland—absolute precision. Soon after the wheels went up, the multilingual SwissAir staff ’s seamless and stealthy service began. In anticipation of a full itinerary, I took advantage of the lay-flat business class arrangements and prioritized rest for the flight, after dinner and a glass or two of Swiss wine, of course. Upon touching down in this modest and peaceful country, the first stop was the train station in Zürich (Hauptbahnhof ) for a rail trip to the quaint alpine town of Zermatt. Shortly after connections in Bern and Visp, the remarkable efficiency of the Swiss, specifically the train system, became readily apparent. For travelers who appreciate reliable schedules and impeccable timekeeping, it’s difficult to imagine a more dependable mode of transport. Winding through the picturesque countryside, the panoramic glass windows of the clean and quiet first-class cabin afforded unobstructed views of naturally made wonders and impressive feats of human engineering. Upon disembarking in Zermatt, the mountain air was brisk and the golden sun warm. The scene could easily have been a movie set, but this was simply the center of the historic mountaineering town. 40 slmag.net
A tuxedoed chauffer and his beautifully adorned horse and carriage guided a memorable ascension up main street, Bahnhofstrasse, on the way to the iconic Mont Cervin Palace. Shoppers entering and exiting celebrated Swiss boutiques stopped and stared at this special ride. Perhaps it was because of the stylish chariot or because the only other vehicles traveling Zermatt are zeroemission custom-built miniature electric vans assembled nearby. A few moments later the almost-cinematic experience ended upon arrival at the hotel where the director of sales and unofficial town historian, Petra Ellmeier, staged a grand welcome. As I was ushered passed the enchanting fireplace that warmed the discerningly appointed lobby I arrived to my authentic chalet-style suite. The balcony doors were opened so I could behold the breathtaking Matterhorn. This sun-drenched peak pierced the sky, dwarfing dozens of rooftops between my balcony and the hillside. Departing this inviting vista, I strolled the tight cobblestone streets, starting in the old village where 16th century structures built from stone and larch wood timbers were tightly packed together. Every turn gave way to a new vantage point of the glorious Matterhorn, and each bend served up a surprise shot of floral landscapes bursting with color. The civic pride runs deep (or high) in Zermatt, as does a sense of community and stewardship to the planet—each palpable in the random encounters with the guide’s neighbors and friends. As the sun fell behind the mountainside, the chill induced a quick end to the tour.
