Strike up the Sand

Opened during the Jazz Age, The Don CeSar hotel reigns as the crown jewel of Florida’s Gulf Coast.

Written by Caylee Matthews

Any person, place, or thing approaching the century mark has undoubtedly experienced its fair share of trials and triumphs. Such is the case for Florida’s “Pink Palace,” The Don CeSar hotel, which commands a covetable stretch of powdery sand on St. Pete Beach.

Opened during the height of the Roaring 20s, developer Thomas Rowe spent $1.25-million (300% over his original budget) on the 220-room property. Designed by Indianapolis architect Henry Dupont, the striking exterior represents a combination of Mediterranean and Moorish styles borrowed from developments in Palm Beach, Coral Gables, and Boca Raton. The façade’s pink pigmentation defines the structure from any other for miles around, and creates a dramatic feeling of arrival as the hotel comes into view at the crest of the causeway bridge; it also happens to be the perfect complement to frequent cotton candy-colored sunsets.

The Don CeSar quickly became a playground for high society, attracting the likes of F. Scott Fitzgerald, Franklin Delano Roosevelt, and Al Capone. It weathered the Great Depression largely in part due to a three-year deal made with Yankees owner Jacob Rupert to house the team there during spring training.

Following the unexpected death of Rowe, who didn’t have a will, the property was left to his estranged wife. Not as passionate about the hotel as her late husband, she allowed it to gradually fall into a state of disrepair. The hotel was sold to the Army during World War II for $450,000 and converted into a military hospital, then an Air Force convalescent center, and finally a Veterans Administration Regional Office (which vacated the property in 1967).

After sitting empty for two years, the dilapidated and graffiti-covered hotel was scheduled to be torn down, but an outcry from local residents stopped the wrecking ball. A succession of new owners and a string of ongoing improvements and additions have allowed the property, a founding member of the National Trust Historic Hotels of America to rise, like the proverbial phoenix, and reclaim its status as the crown jewel of Florida’s Gulf Coast. It has been awarded Four Diamonds from AAA every year since 1980.

Today, the independently owned resort hotel boasts 277 guest rooms (36 of which are suites), six restaurants and lounges, two heated pools, ample event space, a spa and fitness center, Camp CeSar Kids Camp, the Shoppes of The Don, and access to beach rentals and water sports. There’s certainly enough going on that it would be easy to spend a long weekend entirely on property.

Maritana Grill

With treatments inspired by the oceans of the world, the 11,000-square-foot Spa Oceana features 16 treatment rooms and a rooftop relaxing terrace that overlooks the Gulf of Mexico. During my signature Hamsa Healing Ritual, I felt like an ear of corn as warm melted shea butter was poured over me prior to a balancing massage, which was preceded by a sound healing ceremony with Tibetan singing bowls. Relaxing continues poolside, where scheduled treats—from chilled towels to smoothie shots—are delivered throughout the day. A complimentary half-day kids camp is ideal for parents looking to squeeze in a little “me” time. A wide, white sand beach that stretches for miles in either direction is just steps away (complimentary non-motorized watersports are available from 8-10 am each day).

The pinnacle of on-property dining is the award-winning Maritana Grille. Request a seat by the saltwater aquarium and you may find yourself dining eye to eye with a five-foot eel. The menu is comprised of locally sourced coastal cuisine and complemented by an extensive wine list. The Big Reveal, Maritana’s signature dessert, is a spectacle not to be missed.

The Sea Porch

Casual, alfresco dining is offered at Sea Porch and The Beachcomber Bar & Grill. Beginning with Cuban Bread French toast at breakfast through Low Country Shrimp & Grits at dinner, the Sea Porch serves up comfort food catering to all appetites. The Kronut Burger at The Beachcomber is a worthwhile indulgence. Both The Rowe Bar and Lobby Bar offer signature seasonal craft cocktails and local beers. The latter offers live music nightly in addition to Prime Time Bar Bites and Early Bird and Late-Night Craving menus. A favorite among young and old is Uncle Andy’s Ice Cream Parlor, which serves locally made small-batch Working Cow ice cream.

The Rowe Bar

Should you wish to venture outside the comfortable confines of the resort, there are a number of touristy towns nearby that seem to have changed little since I first visited the area some 30 years ago (an observation that elicited satisfied smiles from locals). While exploring a quiet residential neighborhood near The Don CeSar, we discovered Grace Restaurant in Pass-a-Grille Beach, a charming place that has a list of signature cocktails all named after local dogs, and an ambitious, upscale menu. A host of greater Tampa Bay area attractions are within a 30-minute drive, including The Dali Museum, premier shopping, and dining at Sundial in downtown St. Pete, Tampa Bay Rays baseball at Tropicana Field, and access to championship golf courses.

Room rates at The Don CeSar start at $279/night. For more information visit doncesar.com.