5 minute read
NOSHING ON NOSTALGIA
Zim’s Café and The Thirsty Fox
Written by Bridget Williams / Photography by Andrew Kung
When I sat down with chef/restaurateur Ouita Michel to discuss her latest endeavor—Zim’s Café and The Thirsty Fox— she spoke excitedly about a menu she was devising for a special event. Not just any menu mind you, but one with a Renaissance theme that had her pouring over history books for period-perfect inspiration to create a spread she envisioned to rival an Old Master painting. This level of enthusiasm and enduring passion for her craft endears her not only to her staff (now 220 and counting as part of her culinary realm) but also to the legions of fans who appreciate the authenticity and mindfulness behind her varied restaurant and catering enterprises.
Michel is passionate about the Commonwealth, and about supporting its farmers and suppliers. “Last year our company used more than 125,000 pounds of Kentucky Proud ground beef,” she said as I ogled the mouthwatering Santa Anita burger positioned under the photographer’s lens during a photoshoot at Zim’s Café. Located in the former Fayette County courthouse, which is fresh off of a four-year, $32 million restoration, Zim’s sits at the heart of Lexington’s downtown revitalization. Michel wasn’t looking to open another restaurant when the developer approached her about anchoring the ground floor of the building but feeling inspired by the developer’s vision, she came on board, visiting the construction site at several intervals during the renovation. “The majesty of this building is certainly a draw,” she said.
Named after Michel’s Great-Grandfather Arron Rufus Zimmerman, the environs at Zim’s match the colorful character of its namesake. “He was tall and thin and would dress up like Uncle Sam on the Fourth of July,” Michel reminisced. “He would absolutely love this place.”
A collection of folk art Michel inherited from her mother inspired the restaurant’s cheery and colorful décor. Originally intending to outfit the space with pieces from her personal collection, Michel found them too precious to part with, so she turned to graphic designers Lee and Sara Busick curate a new collection, which they built around flocks of birds handmade by Laurel Countians Twyla and Lonnie Money. Lonnie carves each bird and then turns them over to Twyla to paint. Throughout Zim’s, color-matched flocks perch on pieces of driftwood handselected by Lee and Sara from the banks of Lake Cumberland. Louisville’s Swope Design Group helped refine the café’s springlike color palette.
Michel cites a pair of woodcarvings by LaVon Van Williams, Jr., a former UK basketball player who is now a highly regarded folk artist, among her favorite pieces on display at Zim’s. Depicting his take on the “American Gothic” motif, Michel remarked that her affinity for the work stems from the fact that it lauds the contributions of African American farmers.
Open seven days a week for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, the menu at Zim’s is a Wallace Station/ Windy Corner mashup. Having the downtown farmer’s market as their next-door neighbor will allow the culinary team to incorporate the best of what’s local in season.
Keeping with the nostalgia-heavy décor and branding, the extensive menu is presented in a newspaper-style format. The menu is chock-full of comfort foods and Kentucky fried fabulousness (pickles, oyster Po-Boy, and buttermilk chicken fingers to name a few), as well as hearty salads, eight different burgers, soups, sandwiches, and of course a delectable selection of pies and cookies.
Executive chef Nick Zaluski helms the kitchen; he was promoted from sous chef at Honeywood. General Manager Devin Armstrong is a long-time member of the Ouita Michel club, having started out as a fry cook and making his way up through the ranks. “What is different about working for Ouita is that the organization treats customers and employees like family,” he said. This notion is underscored by the genuinely warm reception given and received between Michel and her staff as she makes her way through the restaurant.
Original plans for Zim’s called for a bar in one of the dining rooms, but after careful consideration, Michel decided to lease a second space on the first floor and create The Thirsty Fox. “With the farmer’s market, city celebrations, and outreach events for kids right outside the door, I wanted to keep Zim’s welcoming for children and families and not have the space dominated by a bar,” Michel explained. Folk art is even represented on the kid’s menu at Zim’s, with a line drawing by Joanne Butts perfect for coloring.
The full Zim’s menu is available at The Thirsty Fox, and drinks from the bar are available at Zim’s. With a darker color palette and plenty of reclaimed wood, The Thirsty Fox offers a downtown bar experience that is decidedly not college-oriented. The folk art theme continues on the bar side with lighthearted paintings of farmers in the field with their moonshine jugs in tow. The craft cocktail menu includes favorites like The Honeywood, made famous at Honeywood Restaurant, along with site-specific concoctions such as a pair of cocktails that embody the distinct spirit of Michel’s Great-Grandparents. “I love seeing them side-by-side on the bar,” she said with a smile.
There are 53 types of bourbon available, with cleverly themed flights like the Woodford Family Band and Visit Lex.
A Kentucky Proud market near the bakery counter in Zim’s represents the start of what Michel hopes will be a more comprehensive product line produced in partnership with other Kentucky companies like Weisenberger Mill. In the meantime, she is happy to enjoy the warm reception the city has given her latest restaurant. “It’s really a wonderful thing to be a part of,” she said.
Located at 215 West Main Street in downtown Lexington, Zim’s Café is open seven days a week from 7am to 9pm. The Thirsty Fox is open from 11am to 11pm daily. For more information visit zimscafe.com.
