LA PETITE PIERRE

Written by Bridget Williams / Photography by Andrew Kung

Ensconced among the Queen City’s top culinary establishments since it opened in 1989, the quaint confines of La Petite Pierre on Camargo Road continue to turn out honest and rustic cuisine in the French style. One could say that owners Suzy DeYoung and Michele Vollman have cooking in their DNA: the restaurant is named after their late father, Pierre Adrian, who was chef at the Maisonette in the 1960s and was integral in helping the storied establishment attain its first five-star designation. In addition to time spent in the kitchen with their father, the pair was also privileged to visit with family in France, where they learned important culinary traditions first hand.

It’s little accident that the interior of the bistro hearkens to Alsace, as it is not only the homeland of their father but also where DeYoung was formally trained (at the five-star L’Auberge D’Ill). Much of Alsace is positioned on a fertile alluvial plain between the Rhine River and the Vosges Mountains in the west, and the resulting melding of Franco-Germanic cultures in the region is particularly suited to Cincinnati, where German heritage is also prevalent and heralded.

Primarily a catering company, La Petite Pierre opens its doors for restaurant-style service during “Underground Dining” events, wine tastings, and “Fill the Pot” dinners. With DeYoung in charge of the kitchen, assisted by Colin Smith and Miles Meeden, Vollman warmly oversees the front of the house, resplendent with fresh flowers and antiquities that add to the homey appeal.

During the intimate “Underground” affairs, patrons can choose from several small plate offerings (steamed mussels swimming in a broth of white wine and shallots is a standout) and a handful of dinner entrées from the land and sea (that change frequently based on the season). Suggested wine pairings available by the glass or bottle are printed under each entrée.

La Petite Pierre is located at 7800 Camargo Road in Madeira. For information on hours and reservations, call 513.527.4909 or visit lapetitepierre.com.